Sole Paint For Horses? Top 99 Best Answers

If you are just beginning the transition to barefoot, or are looking for ways to improve the condition of your barefoot horse’s hooves, it pays to take a closer look at your horse’s environment. A varied and active environment can be the key to achieving the rock-hard hooves you dream of.

By Helle Maigaard Erhardsen

When walking your horse barefoot, it’s important to remember that his hooves are adapting to the environment in which he spends most of his time. As such, it is to be expected that your horse could get a little sore when hoeing on gravel or rocky trails. if he spends most of his time in a soft, sandy paddock or on thick grass and muddy ground.

However, there are ways to naturally strengthen your hooves to make them more resilient on hard, uneven, and rockier surfaces. It will take some effort on your part, but it will likely not only improve the condition of your horse’s hooves but also result in a much happier and healthier horse in general.

One way is to make your horse’s home environment, his paddock, as similar as possible to life in the wild. And with a little imagination, this is also possible on small plots and a few hectares of paddock. Below we look at several ideas on how to improve your paddock environment to make your horse happier and fitter while building strong and healthier barefoot feet.

First step to healthy hooves: get your horse moving!

Natural hoof care professionals agree that the key to healthy hooves is a combination of 1) adequate exercise and exercise, 2) a forage-based diet balanced with essential vitamins and minerals, and 3) regular, qualified hoof care. In this blog we will take a closer look at the first part – which of course should be combined with the other two parts for the best result.

When you look at horses in the wild, it becomes clear why daily exercise and exercise is essential for your horse. Free-roaming wild horses cover between 15 and 20 kilometers a day in search of food and water. This amount of exercise stimulates the horse’s metabolism, flexibility and general fitness and health.

In addition, wild horses’ hooves adapt to the environment in which they move, and their hooves grow in proportion to how quickly the natural environment wears them down. Because of this, wild horses rarely suffer from the common hoof problems of domestic horses and do not require trimming by a farrier.

According to farrier Andrew Bowe, domesticated horses grow their best hooves miles under saddle. In his experience, commercial trail and endurance horses have the healthiest and strongest bare feet. But by no means all horse owners are able to move their horses to the same extent as endurance horses. So it’s helpful to look at what you can do to encourage exercise where your horse spends most of its time – in its paddock.

Encourage your horse to move with a rail system

Adding obstacles to your tracking system is a great way to keep your horses alert and active. However, if your herd includes injured or old, less agile horses, it’s a good idea to leave space around the most difficult obstacles so they aren’t forced to fight them.

After observing the wild mustangs in the United States’ Great Basin following tracks as they move about their territory, Jaime Jackson developed the concept of a paddock paradise. The idea is to mimic these natural paths in your horses’ paddock by setting up a fenced path around the perimeter of your property that can eventually lead to an open paddock in the middle.

Research shows that horses run more miles and more frequently on a track system compared to a normal open paddock. The reason for this is that the horses have to commute between feeding stations, water supply, taxiways, sheltered areas and pastures. Therefore, you must be strategic in designing your paddock paradise by placing these features as far apart as possible. Lots of small hay nets spaced well apart are also more effective than one large hay feed station.

The amount of daily training will continue to increase if you can incorporate hills into your track system. If your land is flat, there’s always an option to create your own hills with compacted mounds of dirt similar to mountain bike trails to allow your horse to work different muscle groups as it climbs and descends.

Another effective way to sneak in some gymnastics exercises is to place natural obstacles along the course. This could be poles on the ground for the horse to raise its feet, or even big logs that encourage the horse to jump, or some nice high knee raises. Keeping more horses together on the same track also increases exercise as they are then able to practice natural herd behaviors such as playing, trailing and grooming.

Use the track surface to condition your horse’s hooves

Pea gravel is a popular covering on track systems as it is gentle on horses’ hooves while providing great stimulation to their soles and frogs. Here it is used as a pad at an animal shelter and around a water station at Stepping Stone Equine Hoof Care to aid in the rehabilitation of a horse suffering from scaphoids.

Aside from pure exercise, a running track system gives you the perfect opportunity to condition your horse’s hooves on a variety of surfaces. Daily contact with a variety of surfaces is critical to achieving strong, resilient barefoot feet. As previously mentioned, horses’ hooves are very adaptable to their environment and if your horse is ever only exposed to spongy paddock bedding and soft grass in the paddock, your horse is likely to experience some foot soreness on rougher surfaces.

Therefore, it is very useful to create different surfaces on the route that your horse travels on a daily basis in order to get to its desired destinations. Paving the ground with large rocks around the watering station is a popular feature that not only helps keep the ground dry and muddy, but also allows your horse to walk and stand on it while drinking.

Coarse gravel tends to damage sensitive hooves, but is still a great surface to further condition already healthy barefoot hooves. A less hard version is pea gravel, which is made up of small, pea-sized, rounded stones. Pea gravel is suitable for both healthy hooves and hooves that need rehabilitation or conditioning during the transition from shod to barefoot.

If you are using your tracking system to limit and control your laminitis-prone horse’s grass ingestion, you may not want to allow him access to an area of ​​grass. Though he would still need a soft place to sleep or roll over. Although many horses love sand for this purpose, it can be difficult to keep it in place in heavy rain or wind. Sandy loam or fine soil will also work and be easier to control.

In addition to being a dangerous slipping hazard, mud is also the most unhealthy substance for horses’ hooves. When mixed with manure and urine, it becomes a potent cocktail of bacteria, and perpetually soaked hooves become soft and prone to infection and bruising. Here are non-slip cobblestones that are filled with roadbed gravel to provide horses with a dry surface around a hay paddock.

Hoof shoes for gradual conditioning and stimulation of sensitive hooves

Many common hoof problems are related to the horse compensating for pain, leading to toe landings and understimulated heels and frogs. Of course, if the heel pain is caused by an infection like thrush, this needs to be treated. Otherwise, while it may seem paradoxical, gradual stimulation of the sore tissue is the best way to rebuild it.

However, how quickly you should expose your horse to stimulation from different surfaces must depend on the condition of your horse’s hooves. Thin soles and sore, clenched heels should be protected with hoof boots until they have had time to grow better. The benefit of using hoof boots such as Scoot Boots is that these hoof boots still allow for hoof stimulation from the ground, which is essential for stimulating healthy growth of the affected tissue.

Once you have a consistent, comfortable heel-landing in protective hoofshoes, you should begin gradually exposing him barefoot on a suitable surface. Depending on the condition of your horse’s hoof, it will always feel most comfortable in hoof boots when riding on rocky ground. This is perfectly normal, as your horse needs a lot of constant contact with rough ground to reach the hard, rock-crushing hooves that wild horses have.

$19.94

Venice Turpentine with Brush – 16 oz

EQUINE VENICE TURPENTINE FOR HARDENING AND TENRING OF SOLES

Used on the sole of the hoof to harden or harden the hoof on sore or sensitive horses. In this application, it can be painted on the sole of the hoof daily and covered with brown paper until the desired results are achieved. Venice of turpentine was also used for its antiseptic properties – in such cases it can be used on rundown and other types of injuries.

Soft hooves are one of the most common problems associated with wet and muddy conditions. When it comes to soft hooves, it’s important to understand that the primary purpose of hooves is to provide support for the horse. The hooves are designed to provide balance and stability while supporting the horse’s full weight. When a horse develops soft hooves, other hoof problems are likely to follow, which can lead to lameness. In this blog we will discuss:

How soft hooves develop

Problems related to soft hooves

prevention and treatment

How soft hooves develop

The anatomy of the hoof wall plays a large role in how the hoof softens. The hoof wall is made up of horn tubes that give the hoof wall strength and density while also allowing the hoof wall to be porous. Under normal environmental conditions, these tubes remain tightly packed and the hoof remains strong. In humid conditions, the porous structure of the hoof acts like a sponge and absorbs moisture. This excess moisture weakens the cross-links of connective tissue that hold the tubules in place. These bonds are further weakened and stretched when the hoof is exposed to moisture for a long period of time. This process causes the hoof to lose its structural integrity and shape.

The effects of soft hooves

Under normal conditions, the sole of the hoof is concave. This concave structure protects the more sensitive parts of the hoof and acts as a shock absorber. When the hoof absorbs too much moisture, the hoof wall expands. The expansion then stretches and separates the white line area. When the horse’s weight is applied to the softened hoof, the hoof begins to pancake, causing the sole of the hoof to fall off. Hoof pancakes also cause the hoof wall to weaken, crack and split. This creates the perfect environment for numerous hoof-related problems.

“The first thing I notice when I see a softened hoof is the increased aspect of distortion. When softened, the hoof wall is not as strong and can be difficult to manage during rigorous work. When the hoof capsule is weakened, we need to take care of crack formation and balance of the hoof. At the moment I see many clients affected by hoof abscesses. Especially in areas where the hoof tissue has become soft. It is important for your farrier to properly clean the corn area, improve the vertical depth of the hoof, and take care of the sole. This will ensure your horse doesn’t become overly sensitive.” – Darren Owen, Professional Farrier

Problems related to soft hooves

Poor Hoof Quality Developing soft hooves can lead to cracks, cracks, chips and deformities.

Sensitive Hooves Hooves can become sensitive on hard and rocky surfaces. Foreign objects, stones and other material can penetrate the soaked sole and injure it. If the hoof becomes too soft, the horse may have difficulty walking or become lame.

Hoof abscesses A soft hoof increases the likelihood of abscesses. The weak hoof wall, stretched white line and softened sole make it easier for bacteria and/or foreign material to enter the hoof capsule. This can lead to the formation of hoof abscesses.

Hoof Hold A soft hoof makes it difficult for a horse to hold a hoof. When the hoof becomes too soft, clenched nails holding the hoof loosen, pull out, or snap off. This can result in pieces of the hoof wall tearing out; especially around the nail holes. The loss of the hoof wall makes it difficult to reset the horseshoe. The farrier may resort to gluing the hoof if too much of the hoof is damaged.

Thrush and Crumbling Hoof Horn Wet and muddy conditions expose hooves to “hoof-eating” microbes that cause thrush and crumbling hoof horn. Crumbling hoof horn, cracks, chips and flat soles are entry points for microbes to invade and thrive.

Lameness A soft hoof is susceptible to a variety of hoof problems. Your horse could become lame from one or more of the above issues.

How to prevent soft hooves

Proper hoof care, a clean and dry environment, and proper nutrition all play a role in maintaining a healthy hoof.

“If your farrier doesn’t have a good, solid foot to work with, shoeing the horse properly is a challenge. This is where proper nutrition and prevention come into play. This allows the horse to maintain a strong hoof even during times when we are exposed to challenging wet environmental conditions.” – Darren Owen, professional farrier

Steps to prevent soft hooves

Avoid leaving your horse in wet and muddy environments for long periods of time.

Use shavings and provide your horse with a clean and dry environment.

Routinely dry and clean your horse’s hooves of mud, dirt, or foreign material.

Keep a regular farrier schedule.

Ensure proper nutrition and a quality hoof supplement such as Farrier’s Formula® Double Strength to develop a thicker, healthier, stronger hoof.

Apply a non-caustic hoof care like Farrier’s Finish® regularly to regulate moisture levels. TIP: Adding 2-3 tablespoons of table salt or Epsom salts to a 16-ounce bottle of Farrier’s Finish® will help draw out excess moisture and harden the hoof.

If your horse develops soft hooves or other hoof problems, consult your farrier and veterinarian. If you have questions about using Life Data® products to treat or prevent soft hooves, contact us at 1-800-624-1873 or email [email protected].

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Understanding the Horse’s Sole 8-16-05 Pete Ramey

The sole of the hoof is the most abused and misunderstood part of the domestic horse (with the possible exception of its digestive system). I’m guilty of that too. As a farrier, it always seemed necessary to me to routinely trim the sole at the toe, and in my early days as a barefoot trimmer I found it desirable to thin it at the instep. When I started both trades, I was taught to think of sole as an idle passenger; Trimming the hoof wall to specific parameters and then trimming or relieving the sole accordingly. Now I see the sole as the ultimate guide to hoof care; Keep the heels, bars and sidewalls 1/16-1/4 inch above the natural calloused sole level. (See http://www.hoofrehab.com/HeelHeight.html for exceptions.) When I think back to the past and compare it to my results today, I cringe at the comparison. My own learning curve was long. I hope to shorten it here for you.

However, it is a confusing subject. It can be difficult to distinguish between a healthy sole that should be preserved, a false sole that should be removed, a false sole that needs to stay as long as possible because the new sole underneath is immature, and a protruding sole that needs to be removed due to fungal infection Underneath, the new sole trying to grow unsupported sole eats under flared walls needing pressure relief……… The list goes on and the more you learn the less you may understand what needs to be done. Because the sole is the first line of defense between the horse and the ground, handling it properly is critical to solidity. Luckily we have a very reliable guide. The seams between the sole and frog – the collateral grooves – are the most reliable and important guide we have to determine the needs of the foot. A full understanding of what they mean and the information they provide will give you “X-ray vision” when looking at almost any hoof.

Let’s start with the foundation. Viewed from the side, a naturally shaped hoof should have a front-to-back arch, similar to the arch of your own foot. The coffin bone forms the front half of the hoof and should therefore reflect the front half of the arch of the foot in a standing horse or be slightly elevated at the rear. The lateral cartilages provide the foundation for the rear half of the foot, but with more flexibility.

During normal locomotion, the horse should load the initial impact force onto the more flexible back of the foot, giving the horse an incredible ability to dissipate energy. Much like the rubber tires on your car, this flexibility instantly reduces the amount of shock that needs to be dissipated by the rest of the system.

When the foot reaches maximum loading, the arch of the foot is flattened, creating a ground-parallel alignment with the coffin bone and lateral cartilages. Then the horse lifts its heels when the stride is complete, leaving the rigid front half of the hoof to do the tremendous job of propelling the horse forward.

The underside of the coffin bone and the lateral cartilages are dome-shaped. When you look at this dome from below, you have the impression that you are looking into a bowl, and the corium from which the horse’s sole grows is attached to and grows from this foundation. Based on measurements from wild hooves and healthy domestic hooves, the sole should be 5/8 to 3/4 inch thick and evenly cover the arched underside of the lateral cartilages and coffin bone. We don’t have to do that for the horse. It will naturally take on this form if the horse gets a lot of exercise on its bare hooves. We have to allow this sole to become very dense if it is to do its job of protecting the horse’s bottom. Its surface area is huge compared to the bottom surface of the hoof wall, so it’s actually the sole that supports the lion’s share of the horse’s weight (on any compliant surface, this is true whether the hoof wall is 1/8-inch shorter than or not 3/8 inch longer than the sole).

The sole was designed for this, however, and generally does the job very well as long as people don’t come along and routinely thin them out. Personally, I can walk barefoot on gravel very well, but I know that I wouldn’t even be able to walk on grass if someone kept cutting the soles off my feet; even if they did it to just one tiny spot and left the rest of my numbness intact. A broken bottle revived this lesson for me on a recent family camping trip. I still had a lot of callouses on my feet, but the dime-sized spot I lost made my own boots feel like “too little, too late.” I was basically lame for a week and a month later I’m still not “gravel grind” without my “hoof boots”.

Horse and human soles can grow back very quickly, but calloused soles are a different story. Callus sole is simply a huge amount of sole material packed into a small space. It takes time to build up sufficient callus. So should we just leave the horse soles alone and let them callous and build as we please? Usually yes, it’s that simple – leave the damn sole alone. There are exceptions, and these cloud the water. If a hoof has been on a horse or tied in the stable, the sole can build up into thick layers. Donkeys and minis tend to get too much sole no matter how much they exercise on our soft pastures. Abscesses under the sun can leave large false soles. In dry environments, the sole may never delaminate on its own. Sometimes we have to trim away this excess to allow for hoof function and the normal callus of the real sole.

How do we tell the difference? How do we know when we have sufficient thickness, excess thickness, or not enough? Easy. Nature has given us a reliable guide in the collateral grooves. When we learn to read them, we never have to ask ourselves what to do or not to do with the sole of the foot. What is special about the collateral grooves is that their depth is very consistent with the underlying internal structures. If you take cross-sections of a cadaver hoof, you’ll find that it’s about 9 mm (7/16 inch) from the bottom of each groove to the sensitive dermis – whether the rest of the sole is too thick or too thin. This means if a horse has too much sole on the outer edge, the side grooves will be too deep. If sole thickness is insufficient at the outer periphery, the collateral grooves will be too shallow. To my knowledge, only a subsolar abscess can remove the grooves farther from the coffin bone, and deep, thrush-like infections are the only condition that causes them to move closer to the corium.

Above are two flat feet with very different requirements – at first glance the only difference between the two might be the side groove depth. The left hoof needs an aggressive trim, and the right hoof needs the entire underside of the hoof left completely alone. We just need to understand how deep the grooves are naturally, and we can immediately tell if the internal structures are too close to the outside world or too far away. This applies to the front foot and to the rear foot. I can’t give exact measurements for this as different coffin bones have different amounts of solar concavity and this will of course vary with hoof size (although not by much). A little too much sole bothers horses a lot less than too little, so I tend to play it safe at first. Wild hooves and healthy domestic hooves with consistent sole thickness tend to have their collateral grooves (at the deepest part) about ¾ inch off the ground at the apex of the frog and about an inch off the ground to the deepest point next to the bars. These measurements can be made by placing a rasp across the foot and measuring to the bottom of the groove.

If this measurement is ¼ inch deep at the apex of the frog, you can be reasonably certain that there isn’t enough sole between the coffin bone, its delicate corium, and the surrounding area. Building must be allowed. If this measurement is 1½ inches deep, you can be very confident that material could be removed. The same exact logic applies to the back of the foot – the back of the foot needs 1/4″-1/2″ more depth than at the tip of the frog to achieve a 3-5 degree positive palmar angle.

These measurements are far more critical to the horse than toe length or heel height measurements based on the highly movable coronet/hairline (read http://www.hoofrehab.com/Coronet.html). The coffin bone and lateral cartilages often sink to a lower position in the hoof capsule, resulting in a longer than natural hoof capsule. This is obviously unhealthy, but trimmers and farriers who ignore this fact and trim to heel or toe length add to the injury by overexposing the nerves in the corium on the underside of the hoof. Thinning the sole causes the internal structures to move lower and lower, elongating the entire hoof capsule. The downside to this is that allowing plantar structure and callus at optimal thickness drives the inner structures up (read http://www.hoofrehab.com/DistalDescent.htm). The crown moves down the skeleton, shortening the hoof capsule to natural proportions as the callus builds up. The center and right images below show the natural sole thickness and concavity of a wild horse’s hoof. See http://www.hoofrehab.com/Seasons.html for the exceptions to the need for a deep concave sole.

In the drawing above left; You can see our target when we face a shallow collateral groove. The left side of the images shows how we turn the flat foot into a concave foot with shallow side grooves by building an appropriate sole thickness. The right side of the image shows the common mistake of working out solar concavities; Thinning an area that is already too thin. We will build up solar concavity as we build up sole thickness. Contrary to what the picture must draw, the hoof does not usually lengthen during this process. The coffin bone and lateral cartilages are pushed up (relative to the hairline) as the sole is built, keeping the hoof capsule the same length or often shortening it dramatically. Burn this drawing into your brain and give it a lot of thought – if you are a farrier, this may be the most important thing you will ever see.

If the sole building process is only partially complete, you will see a flat spot next to the white line and a concave shape in the area of ​​the calloused sole closer to the frog. This flat area reliably shows you where the sole is still too thin. It is very important to note that when the horse tries to build up this natural sole thickness, it often prioritizes key areas where sole thickness is most needed. The result is “lumps or bumps” on the flat surface or on the sides of the frog. Many trimmers routinely cut away these bumps; work against the horse’s attempts to establish an appropriate solar concavity. You need to visualize the natural flow of the individual horse’s sun concavity and determine if that flow extends to the white line without going flat anywhere. This lump may be the only correct spot on the entire foot. When it falls into the “imaginary bowl” of the natural concavity, you should leave it and hope it spreads out over the rest of the sole.

To visualize proper sole thickness using the collateral grooves, use wild hooves or a healthy domestic hoof with appropriate sole thickness. Think of the collateral groove as the bottom of a bowl, and from there the Sun’s natural concavity flows upward and outward. Anything stuck above this bowl should probably be removed. Any area below this shell should be left alone and allowed to grow. Misunderstandings tend to hurt horses. Again, if the bowl isn’t deep enough, there won’t be enough sole on the outer periphery. There will be a flat spot in the sole on the outer perimeter touching the white line. You’ll generally see the flow of natural concavity moving out of the beam, but then it flattens out where it’s too thin. Study the previous line drawings if this is still not crystal clear.

Note: If P3 has been reshaped and has lost mass on its outer edge, the sole can be of consistent and appropriate thickness and still be flat on the outer edge as it reflects this shape of the bone. Also in these horses, the collateral groove depth at the apex of the frog is shallow, even with sufficient sole thickness. If a horse appears to be having difficulty growing soles, examine the sole thickness and shape/mass of P3 on a lateral x-ray.

These horses usually have a permanently reduced ability to sole. Optimize Diet (http://www.hoofrehab.com/Diet.html), train in boots with cushioned insoles (http://www.hoofrehab.com/bootarticle.htm and http://www.hoofrehab. com/GloveMod.html), grow out any wall enlargements (http://www.hoofrehab.com/WhiteLineDisease.html), and allow the horse to spend time in deep gravel beds to stimulate sole growth. Use www.hoofarmor.com applications or www.Equicast.com to eliminate external wear during the sole manufacturing process.

At first we don’t know exactly how much concavity each horse needs, so to be safe, assume it should be 3/4″ (18mm) deep in the front and 1″ (25mm) deep at the deepest point next to the staves. These measurements are towards the maximum you will usually find and are always a good starting point. After we have built up some depth, the shape of the horse’s natural sun concavity will emerge and we begin to trust that shape.

Note: When the heels are contracted, the lateral cartilages are flexed into a higher arc. This results in collateral groove depths exceeding 1 inch for the same target sole thickness of 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch. In these cases, trusting the corneal plane is more accurate than imposing a specific collateral groove depth. Also see http://www.hoofrehab.com/HeelHeight.html for other important heel height variables.

The hoof above is almost full sole thickness, but you can see a slight flattening in the sole at the toe, suggesting that a little more depth could be built there. Too many trimmers tend to cut concavity into this flat area and thin an area that is already too thin. Again, the result is a flatter hoof because the undermined coffin bone is free to migrate downward under the horse’s weight. The concavity must be built up and cannot be cut.

In Jaime Jackson’s wild hoof specimens (above), the collateral groove at the tip is only 1/2 inch deep within the sun concavity. If this were a domestic horse in our care we would know that natural sole thickness was achieved because there is no flat spot adjacent to the white line on any part of the sole. This natural form of the calloused sole overrides our original 3/4 inch “initial guess” as to whether it turns out to be deeper or shallower. If only these principles were better understood……

Personally, I see more horses paralyzed by the Farrier Rasp than all other means combined. I’d love to see a rasp designed to give its operator a powerful electric shock if it gets closer than 5/8 inch to the bottom of a collateral groove for any reason. A hoof knife that shocks its owner if it gets closer than 3/4 inch to a coffin bone or lateral cartilage would be nice too. I would spend my very last penny, buy them and distribute them all over the world. There is no excuse for such a blatant misunderstanding of the foot. Most subsolar abscesses and EVERY coffin bone through sole penetration I have seen are due to the previous cutting of the sole material under the coffin bone or lateral cartilages. That’s a strong statement, I know, but painfully true.

The sclera surrounding the tip of P3 in the above x-ray has been exposed to the outside air. The attending veterinarian diagnosed chronic laminitis, sole penetration and calcification of the lateral cartilage. Deep rasp marks and huge flattening were still visible in the sole in front of the frog! This work was done in preparation for a “corrective” shoe. The collateral groove depth at the apex was zero and the groove depth at the back of the foot was 1-3/4″. The conditions here should be immediately obvious to the trained naked eye, but I’ve seen this too many hundreds of times to count. Why notice the so little? The above right x-ray was taken six months later. I simply allowed the horse to build up adequate sole thickness under P3, grew a [more] attached toe wall and maintained the heels 1/16″ above sole plane. This restored the horse to 100% health and usability. Detailed instructions at http://www.hoofrehab.com/Breakover.html.

I try very hard not to point the finger at the former farrier in such cases. It would just seem like I was beating up the competition and I would probably spend my life witnessing in courtrooms or being beaten to death by an angry farrier, so I dodge questions from vets and owners about the real causes of these problems to keep peace. It makes my life easier, but I’ll probably go to hell for this dishonesty at some point.

While barefoot trimmers are not usually guilty of toe abuse alone, many of them are very guilty when they have the same misunderstanding on the instep. Like the coffin bone at the toe, the delicate structures at the back of the foot can prolapse or move down relative to the coronet. Many trimmers try to trim heels and poles too quickly to “wild horse parameters” based on measurements from the hairline and thin the sole at the arch of the foot. The consequences are sensitivity, sole bruising and then abscesses. The sole is designed to support the horse, but only if it is well calloused and naturally thick.

In the photos above, the left images show the setup trim and the right images show the post trim four months later. The sole has built up so much depth and concavity because it was left completely alone in the process. I was treating the horse for very thin soles and severed laminae. Note that with the setup trim, the collateral groove at the tip of the frog is only about 1/8″ deep and the sole flattens out in front of the frog. This should show that the sole is very thin under P3. Four months later has the sole has thickened, the collateral groove placed 1/2 inch deep at the apex of the frog, and a solar concavity has built in to reflect the shape of the bone.All of the white line separation has grown out, except for a small remnant on the toe. Read http://www.hoofrehab.com/Coronet.html.

Now look at the heels and bars. Early in my career I was taught to view these bars as “laid on” or curved and to cut the bar and sole together to straighten them. But now I see the flat spot in the sole on the back of the foot as an indication that the sole is too thin at this point. The bar is not folded over, but cut off too short because of this lack of depth of the sun. Over the next four months I just had this sole built up and kept the bar and heel wall lowered to the level of the sole. When the sole is deep enough, the bars will follow the resulting natural concavity and self-align. Read http://www.hoofrehab.com/TheBars.htm.

When I trimmed this concavity earlier instead of building it up, my horses were less healthy and their soles were much flatter. In four weeks the flat spot would come back and I would trim it again. Have I had success with hoof rehabilitation and with barefoot performance horses? Yes, I was, but I had no idea at the time how much better things could be. Now, with hindsight, it’s easy to see why.

Another common failure of barefoot trimmers is inadequate use of boots. It is important to understand that horses with less than 5/8 inch of well callused sole anywhere on the foot simply do not have enough armor to safely support a rider’s weight over hard or rocky terrain. Use boots with cushioned insoles until a sufficient sole has grown.

Whether a shoemaker thins the sole at the toe or a barefoot trimmer thins the sole at the back of the foot, the result is sole sensitivity and dermis bruising. These bruises often cause subsolar abscesses, leading to P3 remodeling and permanent corium damage (a reduced ability to grow soles). Hoof trimmers need to be aware of this because sole sensitivity and abscesses under the sun in horses with sufficient sole thickness and calluses are about as common as white horses that are not rolling in mud. Using the side grooves as a guide will keep you out of these troubles.

The same practical knowledge of the side grooves will also tell you when it’s time to get very aggressive with the sole. The collateral groove in the upper donkey hoof is 1-1/2 inches deep. We can very safely create the “natural bowl” of the sun’s concavity and drastically reduce this excess. In this case, I hold my pliers ¾ inch from it. After this one-time, major reduction, you should see that the individual’s natural callus shape is revealed and trust that shape rather than the “experienced guess” you started with Having grooves on the back of this foot shows you that the delicate structures have migrated downwards and trimming these heels to “wild horse parameters” would actually result in you making the grooves too shallow and in this particular case even cutting the lateral cartilage Sole at the back of this foot must be preserved to propel it upwards.

The images above show the information the collateral grooves have to offer. The first picture is before the setup trim. The horse was diagnosed with navicular disease and a coffin bone rotation greater than 20 degrees. The second picture is the same hoof eight months later and before a six week maintenance trim; Sound and work for a living. The sole was not trimmed at any point during this process.

The collateral grooves on the setup trim are 1/16 inch deep at the tip of the frog and 1 inch deep at the rear foot. The wide distance from the collateral groove on the hindfoot to the hairline indicates that the lateral cartilages have migrated downward and these heels cannot be lowered significantly without thinning the sole and depriving the horse of much needed protection.

At the apex of the frog, the shallow groove and sole area at the front shows us that the coffin bone is very close to the outside world. In fact, the imprint on the sole is clearly visible, with a distinct lamellar wedge between the sole and the wall. From this information and the assessment of the very long hoof capsule, we know that the coffin bone and lateral cartilages have migrated down the hoof capsule (or more specifically, the crown has migrated up the leg). If we cut the hoof into “natural parameters” by measuring heel and toe length from the hairline, we would be trimming the coffin bone itself – rasping the coffin bone is bad.

Instead I simply trimmed the heels, quarter walls and bars to 1/16 inch longer than the sound sole and relieved the pressure on the separated toe walls. Eight months later the ray tip is nicely dug into 5/8 inch solar concavity. The collateral groove at the back of the foot is 7/8″ deep (after trimming the walls to 1/16″ longer than the sole). There is enough cornea everywhere.

Additionally, this calloused sole has pushed the internal structures in the hoof capsule much higher; drastically shorten the hoof. The toe wall is much shorter and the collateral groove on the dorsum of the foot is now above the hairline. In other words, the crown and the rest of the hoof capsule have migrated over an inch down the skeleton to a more natural position relative to the P3 and lateral cartilages. The result is a naturally short heel and toe with appropriate sun concavity and thickness along the way. It was comfort, proper movement and the growth of a well attached hoof wall that shortened that hoof capsule, not the knife or rasp.

Too many methods and measurements have been applied to the hoof to even count. That might sound like just another in a long list. I assure you, however, that nothing is more important to a horse’s health and hoof function than natural sole thickness. If in doubt, try rasping a small sole off your own foot; just a little every four weeks is enough. Study the wild hooves and get an idea of ​​the shape of the soles and especially the height of the side grooves from the ground. The wild hoof below has a wire placed in the bottom of the side groove to help you visualize this on the x-ray.

When you ensure your horses lateral grooves are a natural height off the ground, you will be amazed at their solidity and your own ability to fix and prevent hoof problems. Nature has been kind to the horse to give us such an accurate guide to follow. As usual, we just have to learn to listen.

Added in 2018:

Since the collateral grooves are typically 7/16 inch (9 mm) from the corium, if you make the sole concave to the bottom of the collateral groove around the frog tip, you have cut the sole too thin (right side of drawing). In order for the entire sole to be of adequate thickness (5/8″-15mm) (much needed for safety and solidity) there must be a vertical drop of 1/4-3/8″ (6-9mm) into the sole Collateral grooves adjacent to the frog (left side of drawing). Note that the heights of the side grooves above the ground are the same on both sides, but the left side has a much thicker sole.

Time, experimentation and experience have taught me that horses need about 1/4″ (6mm) of exfoliated sole covering the healthy sole plane. Leaving this “extra” drop in the lateral grooves provides that extra cushioning and makes horses safer, sonar and does not interfere with hoof function.

The same consideration is important when considering sole ridges, which tend to pop up on the sides of the frog. On the right side of the photo (with the sole too thin) the sole edge (blue) is simply the horse developing appropriate sole thickness at that point – leave it alone and hope the appropriate thickness spreads to the rest of the sole spreads. Look for that 1/4 inch drop into the collateral groove. On the left side of the photo there is a 1/2 inch drop into the collateral groove – this sole ridge formed on a thick enough sole. It might be appropriate to trim this ridge so that the dropoff is only 1/4 inch deep, but keep in mind that it could also be terrain adjustment (see article http://www.hoofrehab.com/Seasons.html ) .

AFA2020

Q: I sometimes hear farriers talking about using Venice turpentine for certain hoof problems. Can someone explain how it works and when and where to use it?

— Farrier in South Dakota

A: I use Venice turpentine when I need an astringent which causes the sole to flake and harden. It is used for sore sole problems, thin soles, etc. Most products on the market that provide sole relief contain Venice turpentine.

There are different types of turpentine products on the market. Pure Venetian turpentine is made from western larch resin. Venetian turpentine is an ancient product used as an astringent in both medicine and farriery.

An astringent causes biological or exposed tissues to contract, shrink, or contract. Venice turpentine is very effective on horses with sore soles, horses with thin soles or when you need a harder sole.

— Esco Buff, Ph.D., Webster, N.Y.

A: Ventice Turpetine is great for relieving foot pain and effectively treating plantar and heel bruises. It should not be used for envelopes or to pack an abscess as it does not pull like an envelope would.

Venice turpentine is often used on performance horses that get sore feet from heavy workloads. Many racehorse trainers have a farrier’s pack of Venice turpentine and oak under the full pads on delicate-footed racehorses. It can also be painted on the underside of the hoof with a stiff brush. When the weather is cold, it needs to be warmed up because it’s so…

Thrush thrives where horses are confined in dirty conditions. A horse exposed to “clean” mud that’s more or less free of manure and urine isn’t particularly likely to develop thrush, but one that stands in urine-soaked bedding for most of the day is a prime candidate. Horses with overgrown or contracted hooves, those wearing hoof pads, and those that get very little exercise are also more prone to the condition. Likewise, a horse that is chronically lame due to another problem often develops thrush in the hoof of the affected leg.

Some horses are prone to thrush and have recurring episodes no matter how clean their environment is kept. In these horses, a daily preventive pat down can control the problem.

Getting rid of thrush requires an attack on two fronts. First you need to kill the invading fungus, and despite all the instructions on commercial products, pouring an anti-thrush agent over the frog will not work. S. necrophorus lives in the many cracks and crevices of the hoof, and a simple squirt of liquid will roll right over these hiding places. Packing a hoof with product is potentially dangerous as excessive pressure can kill sensitive frog tissue.

Here are four simple steps to treating thrush by delivering medication to the areas where it’s needed most without damaging the surrounding tissues. This technique, which is most effective when used daily, works whether you use a commercial or home-made supplement.

1. Make your own cotton swab by wrapping a piece of cotton tightly around the end of a hoof pick

2. Soak the cotton in treatment solution. We use a common common preparation.

3. Wipe the sides of the frog as if picking the hoof. The goal is to get into all the cracks, so don’t be afraid to apply a little pressure. (This hoof was recently shod. If there are flaps or shelves from compromised frog, have your farrier remove them to make the fungus easier to reach.)

4. Dab the crevices of the frog and any other crevices in its surface. The swab will darken as you work, a sign that exudates and dead tissue are being picked up. Repeat the process with fresh cotton until the swab comes out of the hoof almost as clean as it came in.

An Ounce of Prevention: Some horses are prone to thrush and have recurring episodes no matter how clean their environment is kept. In these horses, a daily preventive pat down can control the problem. However, daily use of a commercially available abrasive can dry out the beam. Instead, you can make a gentler concoction of half bleach and half glycerin or glycerin-based hand lotion. Apply this solution to the hoof a few times a week using the hoof pick and swab technique.

The second – and most important – aspect of treating thrush: changes in the living conditions of the affected horse. Resolve to keep cleaner and drier stalls and increase your horse’s training time. Better yet, try steady turnout on a clean field. These changes not only help clear up a case of thrush, but also prevent it from coming back.

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What you need to know about hoof health

Have you ever heard that you should never skimp on the quality of your shoes as your feet are vital to your wellbeing and livelihood? Well, the same goes for your livestock. Some might even say that their feet are doubly important since they have four feet instead of two. Not only that, horses can wear shoes, but your other livestock cannot.

Your horses, cattle, pigs, sheep or goats rely on healthy hooves to live comfortably and pain-free, stay mobile and reach their full potential. The hooves of your animals are the key to your success in many ways. This means there is a need to take an active role in keeping their hooves healthy and to remain vigilant when it comes to warning signs. Regular hoof care not only saves your animals pain, but also saves you money on veterinary care and increases your farm’s income.

As the weather warms up and rainfall increases, your livestock’s feet are more vulnerable now than at other times of the year. If hoof care is your passion, here are the basics you need to know to keep your animal’s toes in tip-top shape.

Horse Owners: Beware of White Line Disease

White line disease (also called stable rot, hollow hoof, and seed toe) occurs when the outer layer of a horse’s hoof wall separates from the sole. This separation makes your horse’s hoof susceptible to fungal and bacterial infections. This can lead to a serious infection. White line disease can cause serious and painful damage, including bruising, tears, and abscesses. If left undiagnosed and untreated, it can actually lead to further deterioration of the hoof and leave your horse lame.

What Can You Do for White Line Disease?

The best way to prevent white line disease in your horses is with daily hoof care. Pick and trim their hooves every day. Removing stuck mud and manure from your horses’ hooves reduces bacteria that can end up in cracks and crevices in your horses’ hooves. When you eliminate the bacteria, you reduce the chances of infections and diseases like white line disease.

Regular grooming from a farrier and a balanced diet are both keys to preventing your horses from suffering from white line disease.

Proper nutrition allows your horse’s body to naturally build a denser hoof wall that can better resist white line disease or prevent it from occurring in the first place.

Observing signs of white line disease, such as hoof cracks and separations, can also prevent progression and allow for early treatment, which can reduce the impact of the disease and reduce recovery time. Regular hoof trimming by a farrier gives a professional the opportunity to analyze and assess your horse’s hoof health to diagnose and identify problems earlier.

thrush in horses and foot rot in cattle and other livestock

Any animal with hooves, cloven or not, is susceptible to hoof rot (also called thrush in horses). Foot rot causes lameness and reduced weight gain in livestock while reducing a farm’s revenue. It can be highly contagious between animals and cause widespread problems in the herd.

Foot rot is caused by bacteria. When your horses, cattle or other animals stand in or on contaminated soil, they are at risk for this bacterial foot infection. The bacteria that cause foot rot, often anaerobic bacteria, target cracks in the skin or open sores on the feet and cause a bacterial infection. Standing in wet conditions can make hooves more susceptible to bacterial infection as the wet conditions soften the skin. Once infected, claw rot causes severe pain and lameness. Hoof rot often causes bruising, cracks, abscesses.

Once these bacteria are present in a pasture or enclosure, they can be very difficult to control and eliminate. It can paralyze goats, pigs, sheep, horses and cows and severely limit their mobility. Foot rot also requires antibiotics to treat, which can add stress to your already busy season and create costs that can affect your profitability.

What are the signs of claw rot?

soreness and pain

Fever at the site and increased body temperature

A foul odor from the hoof or hooves

swelling around the hoof

Dead or damaged tissue

Reduce appetite

lameness

Separation of skin or nail

redness

How to prevent hoof rot

Preventing the conditions that lead to foot rot can spare your animals the pain of an infection, prevent lameness, and save you the expense of treating the infection.

A quick checklist to prevent foot rot in your livestock:

Check the animals’ hooves for infection or defects before purchasing

Ensure well-groomed feet and trimmed nails

Look for signs of foot rot and call a veterinarian if symptoms are present

Keep new animals separate from the others for 30 days

Check boxes and pens often and keep them dry and clean

Provide clean, dry bedding frequently

Ensure proper drainage in stables and pastures

Keep cattle from sitting in water or mud

Ensure a clean barn by handling the manure properly

Use hoof baths frequently and set them up in appropriate places

Keeping up with regular hoof trimming can make a huge difference to your cattle’s hoof health. Daily hoof picking and hoof cleaning will reduce stuck mud and manure. This prevents bacteria from settling in cracks and crevices, greatly reducing the risk of infection and disease.

Foot baths and hoof care also allow you to stay one step ahead of bacteria and infections. Hoof baths loosen and flush away mud and manure to prevent packing. Add disinfectant or copper sulfate to clean and strengthen the hoof. Place your hoof baths at barn entrances or between fields to encourage cattle to walk through. Remember, the more often you can clean your cattle’s hooves, the better.

Moving your livestock from wet to dry conditions can also make them more susceptible to foot rot. The significant change can cause the feet to become cracked or cracked, allowing bacteria to attack the flesh.

Hairy heel warts in cattle

Hairy heel warts, also known as “strawberry foot disease” or “digital dermatitis,” are one of the most common causes of lameness in dairy cattle. This hoof disease affects cows of various ages and breeds, but has become increasingly prevalent on dairy farms in the United States over the past twenty years. This disease is caused by soil-borne spirochete bacteria and is extremely contagious. It is also very painful for infected cows. Hairy heel warts also reduce your cattle’s milk production by 20% to 50%.

Hairy heel warts occur where the hoof wall meets the hoof or between the toe cracks. It appears as a wound or hole in the flesh and they bleed profusely once the flesh opens. These sores enlarge and turn into lesions with roots or hair-like spikes, similar to those of a wart.

Prevent hairy heel warts

The first step in preventing hairy warts is to improve your cattle’s diet. A diet that targets stronger hoof horns and healthier tissues around the hoof strengthens hooves from the inside out, resulting in fewer breaks and cracks and faster healing. Adding four grams of zinc methionine per capita to your lactation milk premix daily can reduce the number of cases of hairy warts in your cattle.

You will also want to use footbaths for your cattle and pluck their hooves daily. Adding a disinfectant or copper zinc sulfate to the hoof bath can prevent mud and manure build-up, which can reduce the chance of infection.

Taking care of your livestock’s feet is a worthy accomplishment

If you have any questions about your cattle’s hooves or feet, we’re here to help. We can also provide your horse or livestock with the hoof care they need to stay healthy. Please call us or make an appointment online to ensure your livestock stays healthy from disease.

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Two of our grandchildren compete in a weekly barrel racing competition. At the end of the season there is always an awards ceremony and the children come out on decorated horses. This year we decided to paint them as zebras, but first we had to find safe animal paints.

Many different types of paint can be used on horses. However, you should always use milk- or water-based products instead of solvent-based products, which have no heavy metals or creosote in the formula — and are low in VOCs (volatile organic compounds).

When it comes to horse painting, there are a few things you need to keep in mind. The first is the type of paint you will be using. Different paints have different properties and some are better for horse painting than others. The second consideration is preparation. This blog post focuses on choosing a safe color for your horse.

If you want to paint or decorate your horse, then this guide is for you.

Here we will cover:

Can you use regular paint on horses?

Ever since humans domesticated horses thousands of years ago, they have become our favorite companions. Humans and horses have always had an emotional, loving bond and many consider them part of the family. It’s no wonder we want our horses to be a part of all our celebrations, occasions and celebrations.

Since it is not practical to buy a costume for our horses, the best option is to paint them. Painting a horse is particularly popular during St. Patrick’s Parade and Halloween. But can you use regular paint on your horse?

Paint is safe to use on horses only as long as it is labeled non-toxic. Look for water-based paints (also called latex paints). Water-based paints do not release harmful VOCs into the atmosphere. They also dry quickly and don’t have a strong odor like oil and acrylic paints.

Most regular paints emit toxic VOCs or volatile organic compounds into the air. Breathing in these VOCs can cause eye irritation and respiratory problems in your horse.

Unfortunately, until recently, VOCs were considered essential to a paint’s performance; This was until further research was done on them showing their link to tissue irritation, allergies, etc.

Luckily, more and more paint manufacturers have recognized the dangers of VOC-based paints and started making non-toxic, VOC-free paints.

One of the best options for painting your horse is milk-based paints. They adhere well to a horse’s coat, are non-toxic, odorless and come in deep, rich colors.

If you want to paint your horse, please only use non-toxic paints. Nowadays you can find paints that are made specifically for use on pets. In the next section, I have seven safe and non-toxic horse paint options for you to use.

Safe Horse Body Paints – 7 Non-Toxic Options

Here are some safe and non-toxic products for painting your horse:

#1. Child safe colors

Any color that you can safely give your child is also generally safe for horses and ponies. Child-friendly colors wash off quickly and do not leave ugly stains on skin and clothes.

They are easy to use, readily available and completely safe and non-toxic. You don’t have to worry about releasing harmful compounds into the atmosphere.

You can also use child-friendly paints from top manufacturers on various surfaces such as animal skin, walls, paper, fabric, etc.

I recommend Crayola Washable Tempera Paint Kids Paint.

My grandchildren have used Crayola Children’s Washable Tempera paint to decorate their ponies for parades and rodeos. I’ll talk about tempera paint shortly. It is a water-based paint that is safe for use on human and animal skin.

features

Can be easily cleaned with soap and water.

Safe for children and animals

non-toxic

Can be easily mixed with other shades

Can be used on a variety of surfaces with ease

Available in 12 great colors.

expert tips

Always consider the weather before painting your horse. If it’s chilly, avoid getting water on its mane and coat as it could catch a cold.

Note: Crayola paint turns into a powder once dry and comes off easily when your horse rubs against something and even when it flicks its tail.

#2. Animal friendly temporary coat colors

Another solution to “what paint can you use for horses” is reptile-friendly paint. Many people paint their dogs and cats, so manufacturers of pet products have developed special paints that are safe for pet fur. You can also use these colors for your horses without hesitation. Pet-friendly colors wash off easily after 1-2 baths or simply fade on their own after a few weeks.

I recommend the Warren London Critter Color Temporary Animal Fur Dye.

I haven’t used this pet paint, but my friend used it as a temporary paint for her poodle’s tail. She reported that it applied easily and dried very quickly too. If it’s good for a poodle, it should be good for your horse too, unless you better expect to use a lot more.

You don’t have to worry about discoloring other items like your horse blanket, saddle pads, etc.

features

Temporary, safe, non-toxic

You don’t need to bathe your horse – the color will fade on its own after a few days

Does not run or rub on human skin, clothes, etc.

Available in 7 attractive colors.

expert tips

All colors work well on light colored horses. However, for darker colors, some products may not appear.

Use a hair dryer to dry your horse faster.

#3. Pony Paint care chalks

Grooming chalk paints are also a safe option for horse body paint. The best part is that it is specially made for use on horses and ponies. You can use brightly colored grooming chalk powders to create attractive designs and patterns on your dark or light horse or pony.

Pony Crayons are easy to use, non-toxic, safe and child and pet friendly. You can use them in parades, shows, St. Patrick’s Day, Halloween and other events.

I recommend the Tail Tamers horse grooming chalk.

My granddaughter recently used this on her pony before a rodeo and it made everyone smile!

features

Safe and non-toxic

Easy to hose off or fade by itself.

You can apply it with your fingers or a brush and even use it with stencils etc.

expert tips

Use with Tail Tamer’s Pony Glitter for a shinier effect before rodeos.

#4. Food grade airbrush cake paints

Another safe horse body paint is food grade airbrush paints used for painting cakes, cookies, etc. The benefit of using food grade paints is that you don’t have to worry about your horse accidentally licking them off. In addition, food colors can be washed out relatively easily.

I recommend the US Cake Supply Airbrush Cake Color Set.

If you have an avid baker in the house, then you’ve probably seen these cake colors. The entire set consists of 12 attractive colors. You can quickly apply them to your horse with handy spray bottles or airbrush guns/nozzles.

features

Highly concentrated dyes

Simple application

Made in the USA

Kosher, halal, gluten free

You can also create different colors by mixing the 12 shades together.

expert tips

Spray lightly. Allow the first coat to dry completely before applying another coat.

#5. pet hairspray

Pet hairspray is another safe option for painting your horse or pony. Best of all, pet hair sprays are free of dyes that irritate and dry pet skin.

These sprays are temporary, non-toxic, and very safe. Colored human hairspray should also work well.

I recommend the Petway Petcare pet hairspray.

features

No propellants or aerosols

Safe, environmentally friendly, non-toxic

Dye free

In the interim

Comes off easily. Washable in a bath.

Available in 9 great colors.

expert tips

If you plan to use it on black/dark horses or on their manes, use lighter shades like pink or yellow.

#6. Light face and body paints for people

Human face and body paints are easy to apply, dry quickly and wash off easily. Many people use these creamy textured paints on their dogs, cats, and horses, and they don’t seem to bother the animals.

I recommend Midnight-Glo Neon Fluorescent Body-Face Paints.

features

Creamy, smooth texture

Easy application and removal

Ideal for dark haired horses

Glow in the dark

Available in 8 great colors.

expert tips

Use a brush and your fingers for a smoother, more even application. Working with these body colors may take some time to get the desired effect.

#7. henna

Henna is a natural plant-based dye that is safe and non-toxic for dyeing and coloring hair and skin. Many cultures in the East have used henna to color their hair and hide gray tones for centuries. Henna dye is even used in Asian weddings to paint beautiful red patterns on the bride-to-be’s hands and legs. The coloring also lasts for several days.

You can use henna on horses, but it will only be visible on light-colored or white horses. Henna leaves a semi-permanent reddish-orange color on the skin and hair – so it won’t be seen on chestnut, black, or dark bay horses.

Applying henna is also a bit of a hassle as you have to apply a lot of the paste and leave it on for at least 6-8 hours. After drying, you need to completely wash off the paste.

Be aware that many commercial henna products contain harsh chemicals like indigo that can cause an allergic reaction on your horse’s skin. So choose only natural, completely non-toxic henna.

I recommend Zenia henna, which is chemical-free and completely safe for humans and animals.

features

Safe, completely plant-based, non-toxic.

Free from peroxides, heavy metals, pesticides and preservatives.

expert tips

Use gloves to apply it since henna may turn your hands red.

Friedrich Haag, CC BY-SA 4.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0,

Is Acrylic Paint Safe for Horses?

I advise against using acrylic paint on a horse. Ask yourself: would you use acrylic paint on your skin? In your face? The answer is no. So why would you use it on your horse?

Acrylic paints can be extremely drying. They contain acrylates, which are also known to be skin irritants. People and animals can develop eczema, skin irritation, itchy skin and a variety of other problems due to acrylates in acrylic paints.

Second, acrylic dries and hardens and becomes very stiff over time. If you try to wash your horse after using acrylic paint, you could rub his skin raw. It takes days for the paint to peel off.

Therefore, please avoid using acrylic-based paints to paint your horse or pony. Go for water-based tempera only, or one of the options I recommended above.

Is Crayola Paint Safe for Horses?

Crayola paint is safe for horses. People even use them to create dog paw art with their kids, further confirming their safety and non-toxicity. Dogs and other pets might lick the paint, but you don’t have to worry about getting sick from it.

The Crayola brand has been around for decades, and its paints, crayons, crayons and other products are considered safe for children. Even toddlers who put everything in their mouths are safe around Crayola products.

So you can safely use Crayola paint to create beautiful patterns on your ponies or horses.

Is Tempera Paint Safe for Horses?

Tempera is a water-based paint. Compared to acrylic paint, tempera paint is creamier and thinner. It’s also easier to mix. The best part is that tempera paints are labeled non-toxic.

Because tempera paints are water-based, they are perfectly safe to use on horses’ skin and mane, and even on dogs’ paws. They are easily washable – meaning they will peel off your hands and clothes if they get stained while painting.

You can also use tempera paint on your horse and wash it off after a few days without worrying about the paint leaving unsightly paint.

How do you make horse safe paint?

If you are planning a horse themed party, you can use non-toxic and safe homemade paint to color your horse yourself. My friend gave me this wonderful homemade dye recipe that I’m going to try soon.

It is made from food grade materials so you can be confident it will not harm your horse in any way.

ingredients

½ cup each: salt, water, flour

A few drops of food coloring to taste.

method

Mix the first three ingredients and add the food coloring. Stir the mixture until it is lump free and evenly blended.

How to apply paint to a horse

You can now use a brush to paint some patterns on your beloved horse using the previously mentioned colors. Follow these steps to prepare your horse for painting:

Clip your horse – the shorter his coat, the better the paint will adhere. If your horse has a long mane, braid it first to keep it away from the color.

Bathe your horse first when it’s really dirty, otherwise the mud won’t allow the paint to stick.

Apply the color/pattern as desired. If necessary, you may need another coat.

Use a hair dryer to dry the paint.

Always make sure to dry your horse completely before driving it out.

FAQs – What paint can you use for horses?

What color is safe for livestock? Any paint that’s safe for humans, water-based, or specifically labeled non-toxic is safe to use on or near livestock. There are acrylic paints made specifically for painting barns and fences that protect livestock. These are safe to use around livestock but are not intended for use on animals. Is it safe to whitewash in a horse stable or barn? Whitewashing is an old-fashioned way to whiten and protect wood in a stable or barn. It is made with powdered limestone mixed with water. While it’s a handy way to seal hard-to-clean surfaces against bacteria and insects, the process needs to be repeated annually.

Conclusion

Painting your horse is a great way to make it prettier for a parade or for special occasions like Halloween and other celebrations. Always use safe, non-toxic, water-based paints to paint your horse.

Paints like tempera-based paints and kid-friendly Crayola paints are the best options for painting on a horse. You can also use face paint for humans, or special (temporary) dyes for critters, or color sprays for animal hair for the job. Avoid using harsh acrylic paints as they are difficult to remove and also toxic due to the presence of harmful VOCs and acrylates.

There is some controversy surrounding the subject of horse hoof polishing and grooming! When you start showing your horse you will surely come across different perspectives on these products.

In this article, I’ll go over what I think about them and when I would and wouldn’t use them. I’ve learned some interesting things and I think if you’re reading this you might be surprised. It might also help you develop your own opinion on the subject.

Is it okay to put polish on your horse’s hooves? (Match manicure, anyone!?) What are the potential pros and cons of using hoof care? We will answer all your questions in this post!

Table of Contents

Polish vs Dressing: What’s the Difference?

If you’re new to this topic, you might be wondering: What’s the difference between polish and dressing anyway? You may even wonder if dressing is some weird wrapper to put on the horse’s hoof.

What is horse hoof dressing?

Hoof dressing is essentially an oily or creamy product that many people use on their horse’s hooves. It’s like a lotion. It is said to improve hoof health, prevent dryness, reduce the risk of cracking (or even treat cracking) and even prevent lameness in the long term.

The dressing can be purchased either in stores, online, or at home. You can find many D.I.Y. Formulas for making dressing solutions at home. BUT before you do that, read a little further because you might change your mind.

What is horse hoof polish?

Hoof polish is usually a liquid solution that is applied to horses’ hooves after grooming and cleaning. There are many benefits of a horse hoof polish. Some of these benefits are:

It can help improve moisture levels in your horse’s hooves.

It can help prevent cracking in your horse’s hooves.

It can help prevent your horse from developing sensitive hooves and losing shoes.

And it looks amazing!

People use horse hoof polish for a variety of purposes, but mainly because it looks good. Most often it is used to give the finishing touch to grooming. People use it on their horses’ hooves before going to shows, competitions, breed shows, and other events.

Hoof Polish is actually very similar to nail polish. While it may offer some hoof health benefits (as listed above), it is primarily intended to provide a purely aesthetic finishing touch to your horse’s hoof.

Black polish is generally used during shows to give shine and highlight to the hooves. Sometimes you can also buy an additional spray that coats the base coat and adds even more shine.

There are many types of hoof polish. Some are clear, some are colored black, and some polishes even have glitter in them. Most of the time it is preferred to use a polish that matches the color of your horse’s hooves. For example, if your horse has white hooves, you should use a clear hoof polish. On the other hand, if the color of your horse’s hooves is black, it is best to use a black hoof polish.

Here is a short video on how to polish a hoof:

Now that you know the difference between hood polish and dressing, let’s talk about the horse hoof dressing controversy.

Should I use dressing for regular hoof care?

According to a study published on TheHorse.com, hoof bandages can actually have a negative impact on hooves, particularly those hooves that are already damaged or otherwise vulnerable.

Certain ingredients like formalin, tar-based formulas, and some solvents can actually cause cracks instead of repairing them. They can actually do more damage to inferior hooves.

Essentially, you’re making the problem worse, which isn’t what you want!

Some products claim to increase moisture levels in your horse’s hoof. But that’s not always good. Excessive moisture in the hoof over a long period of time can also lead to damage to the hoof wall. (Here is more information about possible hoof problems and how to care for your horse’s hooves over the long term.)

Instead of using bandages, you can maintain the health of your horse’s hooves by regularly plucking them as part of the grooming process.

You should also have them seen regularly by a farrier for hoof trimming and shoeing. Regular stall cleaning also helps, as mud and debris can damage hoof structure.

TL;DR: Many horse hoof bandages can do more harm than good. Instead of using dressing, develop a healthy grooming program to keep your horse’s hooves healthy and prevent possible damage.

How should I prepare for a show with Horse Hoof Polish?

Now let’s get back to polishing. Polish is generally much safer to use on hooves because it’s more like a varnish… It doesn’t penetrate as deeply into the horse’s hoof and cause moisture to build up.

With that settled we can talk about the hoof polish you could use to show your horse.

The most common Polish “colors” are actually just clear and black. They are not meant to be too flashy, just to give your horse’s hooves a finished look.

Clear coat is generally preferred in English competitions such as show jumping, hunter and dressage. For western competitions (especially western pleasure), on the other hand, you need black hoof varnish. Note, however, that some competitions or even breeds prohibit wearing polish that alters the natural hoof color. So pay attention!

Now for the fun stuff…

But just because competitions call for clear and black polish doesn’t mean you can’t break out and do some fun. And for me, nothing is more fun than glitter!

I myself love glittery nail polish. And what could be nicer than giving my horse matching glitter hooves?!

This is where the horse hoof polish “Twinkle Toes” with GLITTER comes into play!

I think my favorite is this gold, but you can get it in a whole range of colors. So what’s stopping you? It could be a great Christmas present, either for you or for your horse!

Shop Twinkle Toes Glitter Hoof Polish

Can you put regular nail polish on a horse’s hooves?

Can you use regular human nail polish on your horse’s hooves? While most wouldn’t recommend doing this on a regular basis, it shouldn’t hurt them to polish your horse’s hooves with regular nail polish once in a while.

Just make sure you apply the nail polish gently and wait for each coat to dry between coats, just like you would if you were applying nail polish to your own nails. However, you should only varnish your horse’s hooves when they are healthy. As always, if in doubt, consult your veterinarian and/or farrier!

Just like for your nails, nutrition is important for hoof health

If you’re still a little worried about the health of your horse’s hooves, I have one more suggestion for you.

In addition to your normal grooming, manure and farrier work, you can also help treat hoof problems through your horse’s diet.

Horse hoof health is determined by a number of important nutrients: proteins, fats, zinc, calcium, phosphorus, vitamin E and selenium. Biotin, a member of the B vitamin family, has also been shown to have positive effects on hoof health.

In general, I would recommend starting with Health-E Vitamin E. These also have great benefits for your horse’s joints and coat!

More generally, you can visit our horse health and nutritional supplements page for more information on how to best serve your horse’s health.

Conclusion

I hope you enjoyed this post! Horse hoof polishing can be a lot of fun when done right.

If you still have questions about horse hoof polish and health let me know in the comments below.

Happy riding!

Martina

Do you want to keep your rabbit hutch, bird feeder or hedgehog house in good condition? Treating wooden tools with a preservative can help protect them from wear and tear caused by the elements. Unfortunately, many of the products available can be toxic to animals. Here’s our guide to making the best pet-safe paint choices.

As responsible pet owners, we must take extra care to ensure that the products we use are not harmful in any way. If you’re looking to buy conservation paint for a coop, run, shed, or bird table, you need to make sure it’s 100% pet safe.

But what does it mean to be pet safe? In general, this means that after drying, your rabbits, hedgehogs or birds can come into contact with it and are not at risk. When purchasing wood preservative paint, these are the key elements to look out for:

non-toxic

Water based or wax/acrylic

VOC-free (volatile organic compounds)

Free from carcinogens

Free from petrochemicals

Free from heavy metals

Not creosote

How much paint do you need?

For a 4 foot single story hutch we recommend about a quart of pet safe paint for two coats.

For larger barns or sheds around 6 feet, it’s worth getting 2.5 liters to cover two coats of paint.

Should you paint the inside of the barn?

The biggest risk of wood preservatives to animals is the toxic fumes from wet paint. But even dry wood preservative paint can be harmful to your outdoor pets if ingested.

Although many pet-safe paints are available, it is not advisable to paint the interior of a rabbit, guinea pig, or hedgehog house.

Rabbits in particular are very fond of chewing, so we recommend leaving them indoors untreated.

The interior will deteriorate over time, but you can help preserve the wood by cleaning the interior with a pet-safe disinfectant once a month. Scrub it and let it dry before putting your pet back inside.

Some pet owners choose to treat the interior of the wood to maximize the life of a hutch or shed. Although there are risks involved, these can be minimized by:

Remove your pet while painting

Use of pet-safe paint (Cuprinol or Ronseal are both considered safe)

Wait for the preservative to dry before putting them back in.

This is at least about a week but will vary depending on environment and product.

Wire mesh lining on the inside to limit access to the wood – see here for a real life example.

Regular checking to ensure no areas of mesh have been chewed through.

How often should I treat the wood?

Log sheds can withstand weather damage with proper care.

This means a combination of covering, cleaning and conditioning the wood with pet-safe preservative paint.

Two coats of preservation paint achieve a rich color and healthy finish. With regular cleaning, you shouldn’t need to treat the exterior of your coop more than once a year.

How to apply a preservative to your rabbit or guinea pig coop

Once you’re confident that the preservative you’ve purchased is safe for pets based on the information above, it’s time to cross out.

While most preservation paints are available in standard wood colors, if you can find pet-safe paints in other shades, don’t hesitate to get creative.

However, your priorities should be pet safety and wood preservation.

As you prepare to clean and treat your pet’s shed or house, make sure you have all the necessary supplies, including:

Bucket

Stiff brush

sponge

Gentle dish soap

disinfectant

gloves

Pet safe preservative paint

Step #1 – Get your pet out of the stall or shed

No matter how safe the color may be, small animals like rabbits and hedgehogs have a heightened sense of smell. Make sure they’re far from the stall and you have somewhere to house them while the paint dries.

Step #2 – Always check the weather prior to treatment

We recommend treating the stable during the drier months of the year but always check the weather before treating. If it is too hot, humid or wet, the quality of the finish can be affected.

Step #3 – Clean the stall

Proper cleaning can have a significant impact on the lifespan of the barn. This can be done with hot soapy water. In the absence of wood cleaner, dish soap works well to remove stubborn stains.

Mix some soap and water in a bucket and use the solution to sponge the inside and outside of the coop. Be careful not to soak the wood as this can cause it to rot. Instead, gently wipe the surface with a sponge and dry thoroughly with a cloth.

Step #4 – Apply Conservation Paint

Open the pot and stir the paint to ensure color consistency. Apply the first coat of paint to your rabbit or guinea pig coop using a long-haired natural bristle brush. When applying preservatives, be aware of areas likely to collect water and areas that will come in contact with damp soil, if any.

Step #5 – Wait for the paint to dry

Is there nothing more exciting than watching the paint dry?! If you are applying a second coat, wait at least an hour for the first to dry before applying again.

Step #6 – Air the coop and wait a week

If possible, try to wait at least a week before letting your pet back into their home. This way you can be sure that the paint has completely dried and the fumes have dissipated.

How to preserve a wooden bird table?

Do you want your bird table to always look good?

Regular cleaning and treatment of the wood will help keep it in good condition.

When purchasing paint, it’s important to remember that birds have a much faster respiratory system than the average human. As a result, they circulate more air in and out and are more susceptible to damage from toxic fumes.

For this reason, we recommend only using paints that are free of VOCs – volatile organic compounds. This will be marked on the product or in the description. As well as protecting the animals, the benefits of a low to no VOC paint is that it has very low odor, dries quickly and gives a durable finish.

How to apply a preservative to your bird table

Due to the effects of the weather, garden wood is susceptible to high humidity levels, followed by heat from the sun. This can crack the paint and cause blisters.

The best way to maintain the quality of your wooden birdhouse is to treat it with non-toxic paint annually. We recommend using water-based paint or wax-based acrylic paint whenever possible. These condition and strengthen the wood from the inside.

As tempting as it may be to go for design, bright colors can draw the attention of dangerous predators. If you’re painting your bird table for decorative purposes, it’s best to stick to safe paints that won’t harm birds.

Step #1 – Bring the bird table indoors

Place your bird table in a dry place, e.g. B. in a garage so that it can dry quickly. This will also ensure that birds cannot land on the table while the paint is still wet.

Step #2 – Clean the bird table

Wearing protective gloves, mix a weak bleach solution with warm water. Thoroughly scrub the table with the mixture to remove all traces of contamination. Refill the bucket with clean water and rinse the table well to remove all traces of bleach.

Step #3 – Let it dry

Before treating the wood, make sure the table is completely dry. This is an essential step as it prevents mold or mildew from developing in damp spots or crevices.

Step #4 – Sand down rough edges

If necessary, you can use some sandpaper to smooth out any rough areas where the treatment has peeled off. When finished, wipe it with a dry cloth before painting.

Step #5 – Prime the wood

We recommend soaking the bird table in Cuprinol Clear wood protection before painting and letting it dry completely. This tightens all the knots and gives the wood an even consistency.

Step #6 – Apply the color

Start by applying a coat of non-toxic paint (more on the different options below) with a clean brush. Avoid painting the tabletop where birds land: although the paint is non-toxic, it reduces the risk of injury. Regular cleaning helps maintain this area.

Pay close attention to the table base when painting, as wet grass can collect moisture. Brush these areas thoroughly and allow the first coat to dry for at least an hour before applying a second coat.

Step #7 – Give the paint time to dry

Make sure the paint is completely dry for at least 48 hours before returning the table to the feeding location. The longer you let it dry, the lower the risk of possible damage and the weaker the smell of the paint.

What types of preservation colors are there?

Whether you’re painting a stable, shed, aviary, or table, you need paint that is safe for all animals. In general, this should be one of the following types:

Water based paint

Water-based paint such as Cuprinol Garden Shades Paint is considered a safer option for animals and is often used by rabbit owners for hutches and runs. Using a water-based preservative can help create a long-lasting waterproof coating. It is also free from heavy metals, turpentine and harmful solvents that are dangerous to animals.

Wax acrylic paint

Wax-based paint is made from natural oils and waxes and is considered safe for humans, plants and animals. It contains no VOCs or hydrocarbon solvents and can be used on outdoor wooden furniture. It leaves a smooth, clear finish and can increase the longevity of the wood by enriching it with moisture.

You can also find combinations of both – a water-based wood preservative with added wax and acrylic. This type of paint helps preserve color while moisturizing and protecting the wood.

The benefits of treating rabbit hutches, aviary and kennels

The better you take care of wooden furniture, the more benefits you get from it. Through rain, sun and snow, a preservation treatment can give stables, sheds and tables a strong protective coating and an attractive appearance.

Water- or wax-based paints and acrylics, which are non-toxic, are the only options to consider when purchasing a preservation treatment. There are more than a few benefits to using these types of paints, including:

Health: Less toxins from paint is better for the health of everyone – both pets and their owners.

Safety: Low VOC paints that are non-toxic can be used to preserve wood without the risk of harming your pets.

Protection: Your wooden furniture will be better protected against harmful weather conditions.

Durability: An annual coat of preservative paint can do wonders to keep your item in great condition.

Water-based: Easy cleaning with soap and warm water.

Inexpensive: You can use wood preservatives on any outdoor furniture that is likely to come into contact with animals. This will save you money on paint in the long run.

Finish: Low VOC water or wax based paints are good in terms of coverage and finish.

With a choice of pet-safe paints, you can keep your garden looking fresh while protecting the animals. We hope you’ve found everything you need in this guide – if you have any questions or comments, we’d love to hear from you.

Soft hooves are one of the most common problems associated with wet and muddy conditions. When it comes to soft hooves, it’s important to understand that the primary purpose of hooves is to provide support for the horse. The hooves are designed to provide balance and stability while supporting the horse’s full weight. When a horse develops soft hooves, other hoof problems are likely to follow, which can lead to lameness. In this blog we will discuss:

How soft hooves develop

Problems related to soft hooves

prevention and treatment

How soft hooves develop

The anatomy of the hoof wall plays a large role in how the hoof softens. The hoof wall is made up of horn tubes that give the hoof wall strength and density while also allowing the hoof wall to be porous. Under normal environmental conditions, these tubes remain tightly packed and the hoof remains strong. In humid conditions, the porous structure of the hoof acts like a sponge and absorbs moisture. This excess moisture weakens the cross-links of connective tissue that hold the tubules in place. These bonds are further weakened and stretched when the hoof is exposed to moisture for a long period of time. This process causes the hoof to lose its structural integrity and shape.

The effects of soft hooves

Under normal conditions, the sole of the hoof is concave. This concave structure protects the more sensitive parts of the hoof and acts as a shock absorber. When the hoof absorbs too much moisture, the hoof wall expands. The expansion then stretches and separates the white line area. When the horse’s weight is applied to the softened hoof, the hoof begins to pancake, causing the sole of the hoof to fall off. Hoof pancakes also cause the hoof wall to weaken, crack and split. This creates the perfect environment for numerous hoof-related problems.

“The first thing I notice when I see a softened hoof is the increased aspect of distortion. When softened, the hoof wall is not as strong and can be difficult to manage during rigorous work. When the hoof capsule is weakened, we need to take care of crack formation and balance of the hoof. At the moment I see many clients affected by hoof abscesses. Especially in areas where the hoof tissue has become soft. It is important for your farrier to properly clean the corn area, improve the vertical depth of the hoof, and take care of the sole. This will ensure your horse doesn’t become overly sensitive.” – Darren Owen, Professional Farrier

Problems related to soft hooves

Poor Hoof Quality Developing soft hooves can lead to cracks, cracks, chips and deformities.

Sensitive Hooves Hooves can become sensitive on hard and rocky surfaces. Foreign objects, stones and other material can penetrate the soaked sole and injure it. If the hoof becomes too soft, the horse may have difficulty walking or become lame.

Hoof abscesses A soft hoof increases the likelihood of abscesses. The weak hoof wall, stretched white line and softened sole make it easier for bacteria and/or foreign material to enter the hoof capsule. This can lead to the formation of hoof abscesses.

Hoof Hold A soft hoof makes it difficult for a horse to hold a hoof. When the hoof becomes too soft, clenched nails holding the hoof loosen, pull out, or snap off. This can result in pieces of the hoof wall tearing out; especially around the nail holes. The loss of the hoof wall makes it difficult to reset the horseshoe. The farrier may resort to gluing the hoof if too much of the hoof is damaged.

Thrush and Crumbling Hoof Horn Wet and muddy conditions expose hooves to “hoof-eating” microbes that cause thrush and crumbling hoof horn. Crumbling hoof horn, cracks, chips and flat soles are entry points for microbes to invade and thrive.

Lameness A soft hoof is susceptible to a variety of hoof problems. Your horse could become lame from one or more of the above issues.

How to prevent soft hooves

Proper hoof care, a clean and dry environment, and proper nutrition all play a role in maintaining a healthy hoof.

“If your farrier doesn’t have a good, solid foot to work with, shoeing the horse properly is a challenge. This is where proper nutrition and prevention come into play. This allows the horse to maintain a strong hoof even during times when we are exposed to challenging wet environmental conditions.” – Darren Owen, professional farrier

Steps to prevent soft hooves

Avoid leaving your horse in wet and muddy environments for long periods of time.

Use shavings and provide your horse with a clean and dry environment.

Routinely dry and clean your horse’s hooves of mud, dirt, or foreign material.

Keep a regular farrier schedule.

Ensure proper nutrition and a quality hoof supplement such as Farrier’s Formula® Double Strength to develop a thicker, healthier, stronger hoof.

Apply a non-caustic hoof care like Farrier’s Finish® regularly to regulate moisture levels. TIP: Adding 2-3 tablespoons of table salt or Epsom salts to a 16-ounce bottle of Farrier’s Finish® will help draw out excess moisture and harden the hoof.

If your horse develops soft hooves or other hoof problems, consult your farrier and veterinarian. If you have questions about using Life Data® products to treat or prevent soft hooves, contact us at 1-800-624-1873 or email [email protected].

The outer part of the horse’s hooves is made up of keratin, which is only 25 percent water. This makes the hoof hard and tough so that the horse can be exposed to a variety of ground conditions without discomfort. This hoof wall consists of three sections known as the outer layer, middle layer and inner layer.

The outer layer, known as the periople, extends upward to the ligament between the bottom of the leg and the beginning of the hoof. It has an outer, thin layer that is shiny and protects the hoof from drying out. When the hoof becomes too dry, signs begin to show, such as: B. Fractures on the outer layer. If left unattended, this fracture can penetrate deeper into the other layers of the hoof. Keeping an eye on the hooves is very important; Regular checks are essential for perfect hoof health.

When horses have brittle hooves they create a painful situation. The brittle hooves are badly cracked and dried and often deeply split and broken. The horse’s hoof is a complicated group of structures, both sensitive and non-sensitive, and all structures work together for the life and health of the hoof. Fortunately, the condition of brittle hooves in horses is preventable through various owner routines and checks.

Brittle hooves in horses occur when the hooves become weak and dry out. Horses that suffer from brittle hooves prevent a horse from walking properly.

Familiarize yourself with the benefits of Venetian turpentine

by Eleanor Blazer

Venice, Italy, is a city on the Adriatic Sea. For centuries it has been a port through which exotic products such as silk, porcelain, spices, precious stones, wine and Venetian turpentine have been exported. Yes, the honey-colored, sticky substance that can be applied to horses’ hooves takes its name from Venice, Italy.

Venetian turpentine is extracted from the sap of the European larch (larix decidua), native to Central Europe, the Alps, the Carpathians and Poland. It is also successfully cultivated in the northern regions of North America. This turpentine is used on horses’ hooves to harden the sole by creating a barrier to protect against moisture.

Soft soles are caused by too much moisture. Horses standing in mud or in wet stables are prone to this condition. Other causes include applying too much hoof care, soaking the hooves (to treat another condition, such as an abscess), and wearing insoles.

In order to be able to apply Venetian turpentine, the sole must be clean. Start with a hoof pick to remove most of the embedded dirt. Follow with a brush to remove the small particles left behind. Spray a solution of 50% bleach and 50% water on the sole to kill bacteria. Without letting the hoof touch the ground, apply the turpentine to the sole with a hoofbrush or an old toothbrush. Many people will then apply a piece of thick brown paper cut slightly larger than the hoof directly to the sole. This prevents dirt from sticking to the product and protects your mat or floor from getting too much sticky turpentine on it. The paper doesn’t last long but offers some protection. Continue treating the soles daily until the horse is healthy. Each application is added to the previous layer until a substantial barrier is built.

Turpentine should not be applied to the frog, the ball of the foot, the coronet or over it. The frog (the “v” shaped part on the underside of a horse’s hoof) is dynamically designed. It flexes when the hoof hits the ground and absorbs shock. The pears are also flexible and should not be cured.

Venice turpentine is a counter-irritant. Counter-irritants create inflammation on the skin’s surface to direct healing properties to the underlying muscles or joints. Avoid getting this product on and over the delicate coronary ligament as this will cause discomfort and unnecessary pain to the horse.

When buying pure Venice turpentine, beware of imitations or artificial products. Look for products that state they are made from 100% Venetian turpentine. However, there are commercial products that may contain a mixture of Venetian turpentine, iodine, acetone, or other ingredients. These products also help harden the sole.

While Venice turpentine will make your horse’s soles tougher, management is key. Mud and excessive moisture create long-term problems that no exotic import from Italy can cure. The ground your horse stands on all day needs to be changed to create a healthier environment. Be sure to consult your farrier and veterinarian for proper hoof care techniques.

For information on horse care and feeding, check out Eleanor Blazer’s online courses, Stable Management and Nutrition for Performance Horses. Earn certification or work toward a Bachelor of Science in Equine Science. Visit www.horsecoursesonline.com for more information. Visit Eleanor’s website at www.thewayofhorses.com

Originally published November 2014 edition

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Eleanor Blazer grew up training and caring for horses. She learned to ride and tend to the horses her family bought and sold. Many of these horses required improved nutrition when they came to exercise. Eleanor’s experience and research benefits both horses and horse lovers in the field of equine nutrition. As an equine nutritionist based in Bulverde, Texas, she is constantly involved in providing equine nutrition counseling, teaching seminars and speaking to youth groups about equine care and nutrition. Eleanor is the author of the syndicated column The Way of Horses. She has over 20 years of experience helping and mentoring those who want to know how to provide the best care and nutrition for our special friend – the horse.