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VW Factory Training Video – Carburetor Adjustment
See some more details on the topic solex 30 pict-2 idle jet here:
Solex 30 PICT-2 – Google Groups
>exactly what this adjusts, presumably high-speed mixture only. > I usuall set this screw to 2 turns out and adjust from there. It is the le mixture screw not …
Source: groups.google.com
Date Published: 8/16/2022
View: 8592
Solex 30 Pict-2 Idle won’t chnage upon adjustment – Volkszone
Jet sizes correct, and no inlet manifold air leaks? Do you have the correct distributor fitted, that matches that carb, and have you strobed the …
Source: www.volkszone.com
Date Published: 12/29/2022
View: 4682
View topic – Solex 30 pict 2 – TheSamba.com
i discovered that also earlier pict 2 have another hden screw. it is in the top of carb and is an adjustable air bleed screw for le jet..
Source: www.thesamba.com
Date Published: 4/26/2022
View: 2939
Correct jetting and differences between Solex 30 Pict 2 carbs
Other than the jet sizes etc, are there any differences in the main body casting etc between a 30 Pict 2 fitted to and Autostick carb and a …
Source: vwar.org
Date Published: 12/26/2022
View: 3262
Brosol/Solex Idle Jets .65, Compatible with Dune Buggy
Buy Brosol/Solex Idle Jets .65, Compatible with Dune Buggy: Jets – Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases.
Source: www.amazon.com
Date Published: 4/6/2021
View: 5611
Solex 30 PICT-2
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> Can someone tell me how to set the main needle correctly
> Solex 30 PICT-2 (the big screw with the spring)?
dave…@earthling.net wrote: > Can anyone tell me how to properly set the main needle on the > Solex 30 PICT-2 (the big screw with the spring)?
> —
> ————————
>David Fischer
> Chico, CA
In article < [email protected] >,> Thanks for any help!> ( dave…@earthling.net > ——————– —-
David,
I have the exact same setup on my car (all original) – 30PICT/2 Carby and
single vacuum distributor.
Here’s the deal on the 30PICT/2 – a bit long but it’s all there:
SOLEX 30 PICT/2 CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE
This procedure should also work for the 30PICT/1 and 28 series carburetors
with a single adjustment screw on the side of the carburetor.
Before we start adjusting this carburetor, the valves, points and timing
should be set. This is important and should be set in order
shown when we start with a cold engine and end with a warm engine. Set those
Valves first – engine cold – at 0.004 in. (this is the factory setting for
Pre 71 engines. Some people find this too tight and use .006). 71 and
Up motors use .006 inches. The aim of the ram adjustment is the provision
practically no gap when the engine is warm.
Now set the points to 0.016 inch. If they have holes or are damaged or if the
Friction pad is badly worn, replace it. Apply a small dab of grease
Cam while you’re at it. Also pull the gyro arm off and have a look
it sits on the spindle. If there’s a felt pad in there (some have it,
some don’t), put a few drops of oil (engine oil is fine) on the pad to help
Lubricate the distributor. Don’t overdo it – just a few drops.
Then set the time. This is typically 10BTDC for 1200s, 7.5BTDC for
1300/1500/1600s with individual vacuum manifolds, 5ATDC (that’s AFTER) for
Dual vacuum manifold and between 5-8BTDC when using a 009 centrifuge
distributor. If you have an 009, set the max feed to 28-30 degrees with
the engine is running at more than 3000 rpm, and then check the idle adjustment.
The 009s vary a bit in overall feed, and the maximum feed is larger
more important than idle feed, so you need to adjust it as described.
Now warm up the engine, remove the air filter from the top of the carburetor (if any
the oil filled kind, be careful you don’t need a shoe full of oil) and
Check that the throttle valve is vertical. If it doesn’t, run the
Run the engine a little longer to ensure it is fully warm and check the choke
butterfly again. If it is not vertical, the butterfly needs
Adjust or Fix (different topic).
It is important to set the valves, set valve timing and check the choke beforehand
Adjusting the carburetor, they all work together to keep the engine running smoothly.
ADJUST CARBURETOR
On the left side (left is the left side of the car) there is a lever with a cable
associated with it. This is the THROTTLE LEVER. On the throttle is a
small screw sticking out to the back of the car. This is IDLE
ADJUSTING SCREW. The idle adjustment screw rests on an odd looking surface
Piece of metal with incised steps. This is the FAST IDLE CAM and it works
with the choke to ensure reliable idling when the engine is cold. The engine must be
warm to adjust the carburetor so the choke is off and the IDLE ADJUSTMENT
SCREW sits on the bottom of these steps.
Just below the fast idle cam on the left side of the carburetor
see a screw with a spring wrapped around it. This is the VOLUME CONTROL
SCREWS. There is a barrel shaped object on the side of the carburetor body, something like
the size of a pen light battery, with a wire connected to the outer end.
This is the IDLE FUEL SHUT-OFF VALVE (solenoid). This includes the fuel if
They turn off the engine to prevent it from “running on”. Be sure the wire is
connected and runs to the (+) terminal of the coil. (This usually expires
same wire that connects to the choke.) Also make sure that this magnet
is screwed firmly into the carburetor and does not rattle. Don’t overtighten
but it has a fine brass thread and screws into aluminum – both
fairly soft metals. You can test the function of this magnet very easily.
Switch on the ignition and disconnect the cable from the valve. Touch the wire
plug and you should hear a clicking sound when the valve is in
emotional. If not, check for 12 volts on the wire (small malfunction light,
voltmeter, etc.) and if necessary replace the solenoid – if it does not work,
They won’t get a proper idle and will idle erratically at traffic speeds
to.
As mentioned, make sure your engine is warm and the choke butterfly is on
stand upright. Make sure the air filter is on when you adjust it
Carburettor – the engine expects it to be there.
1) Turn the VOLUME CONTROL SCREW all the way in – CAREFULLY PLEASE. It is a
needle valve, and you don’t want to enlarge the hole by forcing it home. now
Unscrew 2.5 turns. This is the starting point for customization.
2) Start engine and turn IDLE ADJUSTING SCREW in or out to adjust
Idling at 850 rpm. I’ll let you figure out how to measure 850 rpm – but it’s a
fast idle.
3) Then slowly turn the VOLUME CONTROL SCREW in until the motor starts to spin
let it drop off, then turn it out until the engine runs at maximum idle speed.
It should still be within 1/2 turn of the starting setting of 2.5 turns.
If the hole was damaged by a previous careless person, you just have to do it
to do the best you can. Now screw it in until the speed “only” begins to drop
– about 30 rpm. This is the final setting.
4) Adjust idle speed again with IDLE ADJUSTING SCREW. Don’t slow down
Idle too much, 800-850 is about right. VWs need a few idle revs to stop
the cooling air flows, otherwise when coasting at traffic lights
after driving at good speed, your hot engine does not get enough cooling air,
and it won’t like you very much.
That’s it – you’re done. It should now be purring like a kitten.
—
rob
Aussiebug(at)hello.net.au
1970 1500 Beetle, one owner, 244,000 miles with original engine
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TheSamba.com :: Performance/Engines/Transmissions
author message
vwmaniaman
Joined: June 07, 2005
Posts: 543
Location: Grand Rivers, Kentucky
Samba Member Joined: June 7, 2005 Posts: 543 Location: Grand Rivers,KY
Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 6:29 AM Post subject: I have a 1600 SP, all stock, with a 30-2 and an M distributor in my ’65 bug. The most reliable setup I’ve ever used. Getting 30+ mpg at 70mph. I still have points in the distributor. It always starts.
PEPPE
Joined: August 24, 2003
Posts: 1063
Location: Roma Italy
Samba MemberJoined: August 24, 2003Posts: 1063Location: Roma Italy
Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 7:32 am Post subject: r
it is very difficult to remove.
I discovered that earlier picture 2 also has another hidden screw. Located at the top of the carburetor, it is an adjustable idle jet bleed screw. Very beautiful!
I am using this older post to show the photo of the famous hidden “screw” of a pic 2, it is very difficult to remove. I discovered that earlier picture 2 also has another hidden screw. Located at the top of the carburetor, it is an adjustable idle jet bleed screw. Very beautiful!
Shawn407
Joined: March 10, 2008
Posts: 131
Location: Brandon, FL
Samba Member Joined: March 10, 2008 Posts: 131 Location: Brandon, FL
Posted: Thursday May 13, 2010 5:41 PM Post subject: sweet, that’s probably my problem.
DA67CA
Joined: January 11, 2011
Posts: 17
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
Samba Member Joined: January 11, 2011 Posts: 17 Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posted: Wed 19 Jan 2011 10:15 Post subject: Stock carburettor on a ’67 beetle I was just wondering what the stock carburettor is on a ’67 beetle? I thought it was the Solex 30Pict 2 but I read somewhere that this was not used until 1968? That makes the Solex 30Pict 1 the stock carburetor for the 67 bug? Thanks very much!
tspot100
Joined: March 26, 2006
Posts: 464
Samba MemberJoined: March 26, 2006Posts: 464
Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 3:33 PM Post subject: I second that the 30 pict2 is a very reliable carburetor. rock solid idle and good run. The jets are removable, at least on the 3 carburetors I rebuilt. Stock carburettor with stock dist.
Glutamodo
Joined: July 13, 2004
Posts: 25966
Location: Douglas, Wyoming
The Android Joined: July 13, 2004 Posts: 25966 Location: Douglas, WY
Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 06:37 PM Post subject: The 30PICT-1 was the carburetor used in 1967. The one used for 12v US Spec 1500 bugs had a base flange modification state number of VW 105-1 and the matching distributor was the 113905205K.
The 30PICT-2 nozzles are of course all removable. But behind this small screw is not a nozzle, but a needle.
-Andy
Big C
Joined: October 28, 2010
Posts: 28
Location: Gresham, Oregon
Samba Member Joined: October 28, 2010 Posts: 28 Location: Gresham, Oregon
Posted: Sun Jan 23rd 2011 6:38pm Post subject: Solex 30 PICT 2 What is it?
Please ignore the dirt, filth, leaves and pine needles, I’ve only had it a week.
What is the snout-looking object? How do I set it up to make it work properly? Is it worth sticking with carbs? Any suggestions?
The photo shows the carburetor on a new (to me) 1968 Std Type 1. I’m wondering what that snout-like object is that’s attached to the front of the carburetor linkage by a rod that pushes and controls the idle on my Beetle. When starting, the engine idles great, maybe a bit too slow, but it idles. But after warming up, the engine idles at high speed. The rod/piston coming out of the snout object controls the idle by adjusting an arm in the linkage. Please ignore the dirt, leaves and pine needles, I’ve only had it a week. What is the snout object? How do I set it up to make it work properly? Is it worth sticking with carbs? Any suggestions?
Glutamodo
Joined: July 13, 2004
Posts: 25966
Location: Douglas, Wyoming
The Android Joined: July 13, 2004 Posts: 25966 Location: Douglas, WY
Posted: Mon 24 Jan 2011 8:52 AM Post subject: This is the throttle actuator. It’s only intended to hook onto a secondary lever that opens the throttle when you’re “engine braking” – preventing the carb from closing completely even if your foot is taken off the pedal and continues rolling in gear – this leaves enough Air in the mixture to reduce the amount of unburned hydrocarbons exiting the tailpipe. The 66-69 Bentley manual has a few pages that talk about it.
Very original looking decor there! Even if dirty… still unusual to see so many original parts together.
ledsel
Joined: December 24, 2011
Posts: 3
Location: Canada
Samba Member Joined: December 24, 2011 Contributions: 3 Location: Canada
Posted: Monday March 12, 2012 6:39 PM Post subject: Idle Jet I have a 30PICT-2 carburetor and it had a 6 volt choke and idle jet. I changed it to 12 volts but the idle jet is longer. Will it work? it spirals into O.K. but sticks out further.
mharney
Joined: 06/01/2002
Posts: 8348
Samba MemberJoined: June 1, 2002Posts: 8348
Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 12:03 PM Post subject: It’s fine.
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