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VW Solex 34 Pict -3 Does not idle when warm- Fix
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34 Pict wont idle??? any ideas? anf timing settings??
hi people, i’ve just finished fitting my engine to my bus, and cant seem to get the carb to le? Its a stock 34 pict 3, on a stock manifold …
Source: thelatebay.com
Date Published: 2/27/2022
View: 3642
34 pict 3 wont idle without the choke half on
34 pict 3 wont le without the choke half on … …or you could make it run properly with a larger jet. your engine isn’t getting enouf fuel at …
Source: www.shoptalkforums.com
Date Published: 9/19/2021
View: 5691
Engine – 34 pict 3 will/won’t idle…. | Volkszone Forum
Running and adjusted lovely on my Bocar 34pict3. So I deced long term I want a Solex 34 pict 3 with the W Germany logo….bought a refurbed …
Source: www.volkszone.com
Date Published: 8/3/2022
View: 9856
View topic – 34 PICT 3 Won’t Idle when Warm, Help!
… 2006 6:08 pm Post subject: 34 PICT 3 Won’t Idle when Warm, Help! … Now, I just can’t get the carb to le correctly, and I’ve tried …
Source: www.thesamba.com
Date Published: 1/25/2021
View: 4950
34 PICT 3 Adjustment Woes – Itinerant Air-Cooled
34 PICT 3 carb with a DVDA distributor on a ’71 Super Beetle. … I had a German Solex 34-3 that would not le with the pilot jet screwed …
Source: www.itinerant-air-cooled.com
Date Published: 2/20/2022
View: 3075
Idling nightmares – SuperBeetles Forum
Ok car came with a 34 pict 3 carb and an 009 distributor. … Started it up, runs and les fine until warmed up and then wont le at all.
Source: forum.superbeetles.com
Date Published: 12/18/2022
View: 8024
SOLVED 009+SOLEX PROBLEM!!!!! – Google Groups
30-PICT-3 or any 34 PICT carburetor, problems begin to happen … it does le, it won’t transition to the next carburetor circuit
Source: groups.google.com
Date Published: 6/12/2021
View: 372
SOLEX 34 PICT/3 Carburetor Adjustment Procedures
Turn on the engine and run it until it is warm, then switch it off. The first step is to set the throttle plate. · Next set the le mixture. · Now to set the …
Source: www.vw-resource.com
Date Published: 1/10/2022
View: 4830
34 Pict wont idle??? any ideas? anf timing settings??
Oh, Edmund… can that be true? That I hold here in my mortal hand a lump of the purest green?”
34 pict 3 wont idle without the choke half on
Post by YoungDub » Monday Nov 11th 2002 11:39pm
I don’t know why I’m saying this… But if you haven’t already sprayed some carb cleanser down your throat while it’s running and see. The leak could also be at the back of the carburetor, which may not be very easy for you to get to to check for leaks. Clean all jets, set valves, timing (you did that), dots, etc. Replace the heck the gasket under the carburetor and maybe it should work then. I think a conversion kit costs about twelve bucks, so give that a try. I was struggling with delayed carbs and just broke down and bought a new one (I had to go to work and school!). Fixed my problem. If you have the time, try rebuilding first, you have nothing to lose!
34 PICT 3 Won’t Idle when Warm, Help!
author message
Blu67Bug
Joined: March 01, 2004
Posts: 1011
Location: 50 minutes N from the Big Apple
Samba Member Joined: March 1, 2004 Posts: 1011 Location: 50 minutes north of the Big Apple
Posted: Thu May 4, 2006 6:08 PM Post subject: 34 BILD 3 will not idle when warm, help!
Now, before I started fiddling with it, it was going fine! I was trying to “fix/find” a vacuum leak that I thought existed – this was due to a faulty brake servo that worked intermittently. Now I just can’t get the carburetor to idle properly and have tried everything. I’m desperate and really need some expertise.
Any help is most appreciated.
_________________
’67 rule & ’71 buses too! I’m at my wits end, no matter what I do, I can’t get this [email protected] *^ carburetor to idle when it’s warming up. At that point it just dies. All usual items have been properly listed and checked! There are NO vacuum leaks. It must be the carburetor. Now before I started playing around with it, it was going fine! I was trying to “fix/find” a vacuum leak that I thought existed – this was due to a faulty brake servo that worked intermittently. Now I just can’t get the carburetor to idle properly and have tried everything. I’m desperate and really need some expertise. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Randy in Maine
Joined: 08/03/2003
Posts: 34890
Location: The Beach
Samba MemberJoined: August 3, 2003Posts: 34890Location: The Beach
Posted: Thursday May 4, 2006 6:10 PM Post subject: Idling Shutdown Solenoid?
Heat risers getting hot?
The right moment?
Correct idle?
MedicTed
Joined: August 12, 2005
Posts: 2110
Location: King of Prussia, PA
Samba Member Joined: August 12, 2005 Posts: 2110 Location: King of Prussia, PA
Posted: Thu May 4, 2006 6:27 PM Post subject: Choke Opening?
_________________
Ted Wojton
70 VW Bus Westfalia camper van
2003 GMC Sierra
rsorak
Joined: March 07, 2005
Contributions: 2005
Location: Memphis
Samba Member Joined: March 7, 2005 Contributions: 2005 Location: Memphis
Posted: Thursday May 4, 2006 6:53 PM Post subject: Correct mailing list? There are several fixes for this. Do you know that your idle jet is free?
_________________
Rick ’71 Westfalia & ’73 Thing
Otto of Emden
Joined: May 26, 2005
Posts: 91
Location: San Diego, CA
Samba Member Joined: May 26, 2005 Posts: 91 Location: San Diego, CA
Posted: Thursday May 4, 2006 7:13 PM Post subject: How long will it run before it won’t idle? Does it go off shortly after starting or will it run for a few more minutes? What happens if you try to warm start it?
_________________
71 pop-up roof
jerkman101
Joined: March 15, 2004
Posts: 961
Location: Portland “Little Beirut”, OR
Samba Member Joined: March 15, 2004 Posts: 961 Location: Portland “Little Beirut”, OR
Posted: Thu May 4, 2006 7:14 PM Post subject: Boy oh boy do I feel your pain. The one I’m trying to replace needs to have three turns before it will even run.
The new one had a clogged idle jet (?) or something and ran like it was only getting gas from the accelerator pump.
All vacuum hoses correctly connected?
Well
_________________
Where are we going and why am I in this basket?
dingo
Joined: July 19, 2004
Posts: 429
Location: Eugene, OR
LockedJoined: July 19, 2004Posts: 429Location: Eugene, OR
Posted: Thursday May 4, 2006 8:09 PM Post subject: Blanks Blocked? Remove idle jet, blow through idle passage to ensure it is clear
Blu67Bug
Joined: March 01, 2004
Posts: 1011
Location: 50 minutes N from the Big Apple
Samba Member Joined: March 1, 2004 Posts: 1011 Location: 50 minutes north of the Big Apple
Posted: Fri May 5, 2006 4:34 AM Post subject: I know nothing about rebuilding a carburetor so your questions about jets mean nothing. Also, based on what happened in the next paragraph, I believe this carburetor has some other, larger jets, but I don’t know where they are or how to replace them. If I did that I would have to use the same size as you will see next.
I tried to put in a new replacement carburetor and the bus jerked when accelerating. It felt like it needed gas so I put the original carburetor back in and the problem went away.
I also have to say that my local mechanic – very good – wasn’t able to get rid of the new carbs either, so there was definitely something wrong with that one.
So I’m still clueless. Can I take 30/31 carbs? Will it work? I at least know how to set this up since I have it on my Beetle and it works great.
Many Thanks.
_________________
’67 rule & ’71 buses too!
pine net
Joined: May 11, 2002
Posts: 19395
Location: Samba Center for Behavioral Science
Samba Search & Rescue Joined: May 11, 2002 Posts: 19395 Location: Samba Center for Behavioral Science
Posted: Fri May 5, 2006 6:23 am Post subject:
It might have been mentioned before by all these guys…or it might be what came up in this thread about the idle pilot jet needing to be pulled back a bit because it got “overtightened” in the carb body at some point. You’ll have to remove it anyway and check for blocking…
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=167446&highlight=pilot+jet Check out this thread. It also has links to another thread with pictures of the carburetor. It could be mentioned earlier by all these guys…or it could be what came up in this thread about the idle pilot jet needing to be retracted a bit for reasons of “over-revving” at some point in the carburetor body. You’ll have to remove it anyway and check for blocking…
amskeptical
Joined: October 18, 2002
Posts: 8509
Location: Across the country
Samba MemberJoined: October 18, 2002Posts: 8509Location: Across the country
Posted: Fri May 5, 2006 8:42 AM Post subject: Re:34 IMAGE 3 will not idle when warm, help! Blu67Bug wrote: I’m at my wits end no matter what I do I can’t get this [email protected]*^ carburetor to idle when it’s warming up. At that point it just dies. All usual items have been properly listed and checked! There are NO vacuum leaks. It has to be the carbs.
Now, before I started fiddling with it, it was going fine! I was trying to “fix/find” a vacuum leak that I thought existed – this was due to a faulty brake servo that worked intermittently. Now I just can’t get the carburetor to idle properly and have tried everything. I’m desperate and really need some expertise.
Any help is most appreciated.
German 34Pict3 carburetors are a feat of engineering. On the 1971 bus they require a working vacuum delay unit on the manifold so you can unscrew that big brass air bypass screw to get your correct idle. There must be a flow of air through the bypass circuit that will help retract the idle shutoff piston. That thing can click all day when you’re testing it, and then sit dumb when you want it to actually retract, when you want to keep the engine running (this isn’t the usual shut-off solenoid, senor Keifernet, you mustn’t cheat how do you sometimes do it with the shutdowns *pilot jet*).
Experiment:
Unscrew the large brass screw 6 turns from the bottom.
Remove the large bypass shutoff solenoid from the carburetor. Let the wire dangle securely. Switch on ignition. Touch the wire to the cut terminal lug and ground the chassis to a metal location free of fuel vapors. Watch the shutoff piston retract. It not? Touch it lightly. Does it retreat? Good. Now, with the wire attached, counter-twist the solenoid about five or six turns in your hand and install with the plunger still retracted, solenoid still energized, no fuel vapors present. Open the throttle twice and then set the throttle screw to the top stop of the fast idle cam. Start the engine and return to the engine and wait at idle until it warms up. Set the mixture screw as close to normal idle as possible. If the idle is too fast, yay! Screw in the large brass screw until it is normal. If the idle is too fast and you have to turn the big brass screw all the way in, your deceleration is probably not retarded.
colin
(If you install a piston-type shut-off solenoid, it needs to touch the end of the bore in the carburetor. If it doesn’t, it just stays there, rather than retracting every time you turn the ignition on.)
_________________
www.itinerant-air-cooled.com English 34Pict3 carburetors are a feat of engineering. On the 1971 bus they require a working vacuum delay unit on the manifold so you can unscrew that big brass air bypass screw to get your correct idle. There must be a flow of air through the bypass circuit that will help retract the idle shutoff piston. That thing can click all day when you’re testing it, and then sit dumb when you want it to actually retract, when you want to keep the engine running (this isn’t the usual shut-off solenoid, senor Keifernet, you mustn’t cheat as you sometimes do with *ignition jet* shutoffs). Experiment: Crank out the large brass screw 6 turns from the bottom. Remove the large bypass shutoff solenoid from the carburetor. Let the wire dangle securely. Switch on ignition. Touch the wire to the cut terminal lug and ground the chassis to a metal location free of fuel vapors. Watch the shutoff piston retract. It not? Touch it lightly. Does it retreat? Good. Now, with the wire attached, counter-twist the solenoid about five or six turns in your hand and install with the plunger still retracted, solenoid still energized, no fuel vapors present. Open the throttle twice and then set the throttle screw to the top stop of the fast idle cam. Start the engine and return to the engine and wait at idle until it warms up. Set the mixture screw as close to normal idle as possible. If the idle is too fast, yay! Screw in the large brass screw until it is normal. If the idle is too fast and you have to turn the big brass screw all the way in, your lag probably isn’t retarding the carburetor. If it doesn’t, it just stays there instead of retracting every time you turn the ignition on.)_________________
pine net
Joined: May 11, 2002
Posts: 19395
Location: Samba Center for Behavioral Science
Samba Search & Rescue Joined: May 11, 2002 Posts: 19395 Location: Samba Center for Behavioral Science
Posted: Fri May 5, 2006 9:13 AM Post subject: Re:34 IMAGE 3 will not idle when warm, help! Amskeptic wrote: Blu67Bug wrote: I’m at my wits end no matter what I do I can’t get this [email protected]*^ carburetor to idle when it’s warming up. At that point it just dies. All usual items have been properly listed and checked! There are NO vacuum leaks. It has to be the carbs.
Now, before I started fiddling with it, it was going fine! I was trying to “fix/find” a vacuum leak that I thought existed – this was due to a faulty brake servo that worked intermittently. Now I just can’t get the carburetor to idle properly and have tried everything. I’m desperate and really need some expertise.
Any help is most appreciated.
German 34Pict3 carburetors are a feat of engineering. On the 1971 bus they require a working vacuum delay unit on the manifold so you can unscrew that big brass air bypass screw to get your correct idle. There must be a flow of air through the bypass circuit that will help retract the idle shutoff piston. That thing can click all day when you’re testing it, and then sit dumb when you want it to actually retract, when you want to keep the engine running (this isn’t the usual shut-off solenoid, senor Keifernet, you mustn’t cheat how do you sometimes do it with the shutdowns *pilot jet*). Experiment:
Unscrew the large brass screw 6 turns from the bottom.
Remove the large bypass shutoff solenoid from the carburetor. Let the wire dangle securely. Switch on ignition. Touch the wire to the cut terminal lug and ground the chassis to a metal location free of fuel vapors. Watch the shutoff piston retract. It not? Touch it lightly. Does it retreat? Good. Now, with the wire attached, counter-twist the solenoid about five or six turns in your hand and install with the plunger still retracted, solenoid still energized, no fuel vapors present. Open the throttle twice and then set the throttle screw to the top stop of the fast idle cam. Start the engine and return to the engine and wait at idle until it warms up. Set the mixture screw as close to normal idle as possible. If the idle is too fast, yay! Screw in the large brass screw until it is normal. If the idle is too fast and you have to turn the big brass screw all the way in, your deceleration is probably not retarded.
colin
(If you install a piston-type shut-off solenoid, it needs to touch the end of the bore in the carburetor. If it doesn’t, it just stays there, rather than retracting every time you turn the ignition on.)
BS Colin…You can tune a carb all day the expert way you described Monkey overtightened it in the carb body, eventually it won’t idle at all when the choke kicks in…
There’s nothing to cheat about when you’re cleaning dirt from the end of the nozzle…I’m not sure if backing the nozzle off a bit and using Loctite in place is considered taboo, but I’ve got it at least 100 34 picts and another 30 carbs done. .. it’s either that or throw away the carb/body and find another. BS Colin…You can tune a carb all day the expert way you described Monkey overtightened it in the carb body eventually it won’t idle at all when the choke goes off…It is nothing to cheat when removing dirt from the end of the nozzle… not sure if you reset the nozzle a tiny bit and Loctite in place is considered taboo but I’ve had it on at least 100 34 picts and another 30 Done carbs…either that or throw the carb/body and find another.
amskeptical
Joined: October 18, 2002
Posts: 8509
Location: Across the country
Samba MemberJoined: October 18, 2002Posts: 8509Location: Across the country
Posted: Fri May 5, 2006 1:25 PM Post subject: Re:34 IMAGE 3 will not idle when warm, help! keifernet wrote: BS Colin…
There’s nothing to cheat about when you’re cleaning dirt from the end of the nozzle…I’m not sure if backing the nozzle off a bit and using Loctite in place is considered taboo, but I’ve got it at least 100 34 picts and another 30 carbs done. .. it’s either that or throw away the carb/body and find another.
I SAY you *can’t* and *shouldn’t* reset the bypass shutoff solenoid. It’s a different animal. It’s an apple if you’re talking about oranges. This bypass disconnect magnet will not function properly if it is not screwed in far enough for the piston to contact the back wall of the bore. If it doesn’t, it will overheat and self-destruct trying to pull the plunger back.
Pilot jet shutoff with no pistons but an orifice responds to a small back-off when you’re terminally lean on a car ride. And yes, they occasionally get crap in it. The bypass style, if there’s crap in there, it would have to be big logs and tire carcasses to block those passages.
My engine has both the bypass piston for the center idle circuit and two pilot cutoffs for each PDSIT carburetor idle circuit.
Colin B.S. Ph.D
_________________
www.itinerant-air-cooled.com I SAY you *cannot* and *shouldn’t* reset the bypass shutoff solenoid. It’s a different animal. It’s an apple if you’re talking about oranges. This bypass disconnect magnet will not function properly if it is not screwed in far enough for the piston to contact the back wall of the bore. If it doesn’t, it will overheat and self-destruct trying to pull the plunger back. Pilot jet shutoff with no pistons but an orifice responds to a little backoff when you’re terminally lean on a road trip. And yes, they occasionally get crap in it. The bypass style, if there’s crap in there, it would have to be big logs and tire carcasses to block those passages. My engine has both the center idle circuit bypass piston and two pilot cut offs for each PDSIT carburetor idle circuit .Colin BS PhD_________________
pine net
Joined: May 11, 2002
Posts: 19395
Location: Samba Center for Behavioral Science
Samba Search & Rescue Joined: May 11, 2002 Posts: 19395 Location: Samba Center for Behavioral Science
Posted: Fri May 5, 2006 1:41 PM Post subject: Re:34 IMAGE 3 will not idle when warm, help! Amskeptic wrote: keifernet wrote: BS Colin…
There’s nothing to cheat about when you’re cleaning dirt from the end of the nozzle…I’m not sure if backing the nozzle off a bit and using Loctite in place is considered taboo, but I’ve got it at least 100 34 picts and another 30 carbs done. .. it’s either that or throw away the carb/body and find another.
I SAY you *can’t* and *shouldn’t* reset the bypass shutoff solenoid. It’s a different animal. It’s an apple if you’re talking about oranges. This bypass disconnect magnet will not function properly if it is not screwed in far enough for the piston to contact the back wall of the bore. If it doesn’t, it will overheat and self-destruct trying to pull the plunger back.
Pilot jet shutoff with no pistons but an orifice responds to a small back-off when you’re terminally lean on a car ride. And yes, they occasionally get crap in it. The bypass style, if there’s crap in there, it would have to be big logs and tire carcasses to block those passages. My engine has both the bypass piston for the center idle circuit and two pilot cutoffs for each PDSIT carburetor idle circuit. Colin B.S. Ph.D
Talking about apples and oranges yeah… did you even bother to read this whole thread or the other threads in the links????
We’re talking about 34 pict 3 carbs with a “STATIONARY / SIMPLE OLD SCREW IN PILOTJET” here, not the damn PDSIT or the 30 pict electromagnetic pilot jets.
I never said a damn thing about bypass style…
See the brass colored screw in the middle of the picture???
Talking about apples and oranges, yes… did you even bother to read this whole thread or the other threads in the links? “Not the damn PDSIT here, or the 30-frame electromagnetic pilot jets. I never said a damn thing about the bypass style… See the brass-colored screw in the middle of the image???
jerkman101
Joined: March 15, 2004
Posts: 961
Location: Portland “Little Beirut”, OR
Samba Member Joined: March 15, 2004 Posts: 961 Location: Portland “Little Beirut”, OR
Posted: Fri May 5, 2006 5:23 PM Post subject: This is the one that came fully hooked up to my new Mexi carburetor out of the box. I traded it for one that wasn’t and it’s bliss so far. Large grease screw about 6 turns ok, smaller probably about 3 1/2 turns.
Well
_________________
Where are we going and why am I in this basket?
amskeptical
Joined: October 18, 2002
Posts: 8509
Location: Across the country
Samba MemberJoined: October 18, 2002Posts: 8509Location: Across the country
Posted: Fri May 5, 2006 11:45 PM Post subject: Re:34 IMAGE 3 will not idle when warm, help! keifernet wrote:
We are talking about 34 Pict 3 carburetors with a
“STATIONARY/SIMPLE OLD SCREW IN PILOTJET” here
not the damn PDSIT or the 30-pict electromagnetic pilot jets.
See the brass colored screw in the middle of the picture???
YES I SEE IT THANK YOU I needed this picture for a carburetor illustration. There’s more trouble here
_________________
www.itinerant-air-cooled.com YES I SEE IT THANKS I needed this picture for a carburetor illustration. Here’s more trouble _________________
D Russell
Joined: June 23, 2002
Posts: 425
Location: Michigan City, Indiana
Samba Member Joined: June 23, 2002 Posts: 425 Location: Michigan City, Indiana
Posted: Sat May 06, 2006 3:43 AM Post subject: Had the same problem with my carburetor…….was struggling with this for days until I saw the thread about the “Idle Pilot Jet”. Tried this and she runs like a champ!!
Thank you keifernet!!
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