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Table of Contents
What is the best kite string?
The best type of line for kite flying is a braided polyester line. It comes in a variety of weights and strengths, giving options for kites of different weights and sizes and flying conditions. The braided version is also less prone to tangles and easier to untangle with the braided polyester line.
How strong should my kite line be?
Most power kites will require line weights starting at 200# and can go up to 800#. Stunt kites will usually use line weights of 50# to 100#. Single line kites will usually only require line up to 50#.
How do you choose a kite line?
Different lengths of kite lines will change the performance of your kite. For example, longer lines generate more drag than shorter lines, leading to your kite feeling more sluggish or less responsive. Turns made with longer kite lines also take longer and more space to complete.
Which Thread Type Is Best For Kite Flying? – Kiting Planet
The line you use should suit both your kite and the wind conditions. A larger kite requires a stronger kite line; If you are not careful in strong winds or use a light kite line, the line could snap and your kite would most likely drift away in the wind. We recommend that your kite line is made of polyester, also known as Dacron, for both ease of use and lightness.
breaking load of a line
Has your kite line ever snapped or snapped while your kite was in the air? I have, and it can be a terrifying feeling watching your kite float away and never be found again. A line’s breaking strength is how much weight the line can hold before it breaks – a high breaking strength allows you to fly larger kites in stronger winds with less chance of the kite line breaking.
InTheBreeze.com Braided Polyester Line – Buy Here
In the picture above you can see “100# x 500′” – this means the package contains 500′ line and the line has a breaking load of 100lb (pounds). When looking for kite lines, always check the breaking load of the line that suits your needs.
We also recommend that you have a choice of kite lines when you go kite flying! This will help you adapt to changes in wind conditions; If you decide to fly a larger kite than the one you originally intended to fly, you can also swap out the line for a line with a higher breaking load point.
Length of the kite string/line
Different lengths of kite lines will change the performance of your kite. For example, longer lines create more drag than shorter lines, causing your kite to feel sluggish or less responsive. Turns made with longer kite lines also take longer and need more space. When tacking, kite speeds appear slower even on longer lines. This is because your kite will fly a greater arc on a longer line than on a shorter line.
To see this in action, take a foot of string and tie it around a cork. If you spin this over your head you will notice that the cork is spinning at high speed. However, if you increase the length of the string to 5 feet, the cork will move much more slowly but travel a greater distance. This is due to the difference in arc created by both short and long strings.
Longer kite lines are used by those chasing altitude records or wanting to fly larger kites. In mild winds, using a longer kite line will allow your kite to soar in the wind for longer as it has a higher chance of catching a good breeze to keep it aloft. In stronger winds, a shorter line allows for better control of a large kite.
As mentioned earlier, shorter lines can improve your kite’s responsiveness and performance. This is often the reason why stunt kite pilots prefer shorter lines. In the cork and string example, shorter lines allow turns to be completed much faster and in a smaller space.
The kite you fly and the wind conditions you will be flying in will largely determine what line length and breaking load you get. This video by Jim Nicholls is a great summary:
This is how you connect your cord or line to your kite
As mentioned, pre-made kite kits come with a kite line either on reels or in a package; Your kite also has a line extending from it so you can attach a kite line to it – this is called a bridle. In any case, these leashes usually have loops tied to the ends of the leash. These loops make it easy to connect and disconnect your lines from your kite or reel, eliminating the need to constantly tie and untie knots to attach and detach the kite.
These loops are designed for use with a lark head knot. Lark’s Head knots are ideal to use with your lines as they are very easy to tie and remove. To untie the knot, simply pull on it. Some knots are more complex and can be challenging for kite enthusiasts.
image source
Below is a video by Jim Nicholls on how to make a lark head knot to attach your kite line to your kite’s bridle:
sleeves and knots
You may be wondering, “Can I use knots to connect 2 kite lines?” or “Can I use knots to attach line art items to my kite line?” The short answer is no, as just a single knot in your kite line can reduce the overall strength of your line by up to 50%. Remember: your kite line is only as strong as its weakest link; In this case, the weakest link is the knot.
If you need to tie a knot in the kite line, the most important thing is to make sure the lines do not twist and that both ends of the line are always next to each other without crossing each other throughout the knot.
How to Knot a Line After Sheathing It.
The picture above shows how to tie a knot after sheathing a kite line. To protect your kite line, a tube is usually made from hollow braided Dacron – this is especially important when using Spectra lines. Lines are usually sleeved at each end where the line connects to the kite’s bridle via the Lark’s Head knot. Knots create friction, which in turn creates heat. Due to their low melting point, Spectra lines do not tolerate heat and can break if too much heat is generated by friction. The shell material acts as a diffuser for the heat generated by the node. Watch the video below to learn how to wrap a cord.
video source
Bobbins and winding handles
It can be difficult – and dangerous – to hold on to flimsy kite lines, especially in strong winds. Advanced kite flyers who prefer to handle a kite line by hand usually wear fingerless gloves to protect against “rope burn”. However, if you are a beginner kite flyer, we recommend using either a spool or crank handle.
Spools/Rolls
Bobbins or bobbins remind me of the old fashioned sewing machines with big bobbins that keep all the cord neat. It’s the same concept when used in kite flying. Spools allow you to slowly let out your kite line while keeping the rest neatly wrapped around the center. Kite flying reels are usually equipped with handles on both ends for easy handling.
When using a spool, be sure to wrap the line evenly across the center to prevent kiteline from accumulating on the sides of the spool, which can unravel towards the center under tension. It can then become entangled in a bird’s nest.
wrap handles
As you can see, winding handles look very different than spools or rolls, but they do the same job, albeit in a more compact form. Winding cranks are very popular as they make it easier to wind up the line. They are also designed to wrap the line side to side and keep it tidy. Also the changing handles are easy for kids to hold tight as shown in the picture above.
Good winding handles usually come with a lock to prevent the kite line from being let out once your kite has reached the intended height. Some wrap handles are mounted on a solid frame that can look like the handle of a shovel. The frame is braced against your body and there is a handle that allows you to pull in or pay out your kite line from the side.
On the one hand if you are flying a light kite you could even use pencils or sticks as a role – just remember you could still lose your kite if the wind decides to pull it out of your hands! On the other hand, there are electric reels made specifically for giant kites or those who enjoy kite fishing.
Remember that you should never wrap a kite line around your finger when the kite it is attached to is in flight. With the “right” factors (i.e. wind conditions, kite size, kite line diameter and material) you could lose that finger. It’s always better to be safe than sorry.
Take care of your kite line
Kite lines can break suddenly and unexpectedly – sometimes it’s due to wind conditions or turbulence, sometimes there can be a small cut or weak point in the line like a knot or a small abrasion. Even if the line is brand new, it’s always good to be prepared. Prevention is often better than cure!
We recommend checking your kite line(s) for wear, knots and line stretch before and after each kite flying session. If you are flying for an extended period it might be ideal to pick up your kite after 2 or 3 hours of flying and check that everything is still operational.
How to check your kite lines for line stretch or wear:
Attach your lines to one end using a kite anchor or long object.
Once you’ve made sure both lines are equal at the pinned end, move to the other end of your lines and pull firmly on both lines.
If they stretch unevenly (i.e. one is longer or shorter than the other), check the longer one for line stretch or wear and the shorter one for knots. If you have one line that is shorter than the other, you can untie the knot on the longer line, loop the knot higher up the line, and re-tie it before cutting off the leftover line. Remember to leave enough cord to form the knot.
Wear and tear on your kite lines is inevitable with normal use. Always keep an eye on your kite line when it is let out or reeled in. What you need to look out for are:
Frayed spots
surface abrasion
Pronounced kinks – when part of the kite line is not straight but is bent at an angle and does not appear to straighten out.
Small nicks or cuts
Wear and tear of the bridle, along with the end of the kite line attached to the bridle
Any other anomalies that might indicate damage to your line
Cut out these damaged areas and use a blood knot to connect the line. This is one of the reasons why you should have a small pair of sharp scissors as part of your kite flying gear. A cheap lighter will also help melt the raw end of the knots and keep them short. Remember to replace worn lines before they break.
Dangerous types of kite line material
Yes, we mentioned that nylon fishing line is a common kite line material; It is also dangerous as it can kick back if broken. This can not only hurt you, but also those around you.
Steel cables and piano strings should also be avoided. Aside from being electrically conductive as a metal, they can also act as razors when under voltage. Not only can these types of lines easily cut through other kite lines, they can cut through flesh very easily and should never be used to fly a kite. You can also read more about how dangerous kite lines can be here.
You should also never use abrasive kite lines such as Kevlar or Manja (kite lines coated with glue and crushed glass) unless you have been trained to handle them, and then only in kite fighting competitions. There are documented deaths due to abrasive kite lines, and these are often due to improper disposal of kite lines after kite fighting competitions.
Keep your kite lines in good condition by keeping them dry and clean and inspecting them before and after kite flying. If you notice wear, replace the line as soon as possible. Make safety a priority when flying a kite so that you and everyone around you have an enjoyable time.
How long should stunt kite lines be?
The lines should be about 75-100 feet long. Shorter lines reduce response time and make the kite move too fast for most inexperienced fliers. Longer lines make maneuvers harder to complete.
Which Thread Type Is Best For Kite Flying? – Kiting Planet
Written by David Gomberg
introduction
If you can ride a bike, you can fly a sport kite. Everyone knows how to steer a bike, right? You turn the handlebars to the right and the bike moves to the right. Continue to steer to the right and the bike will complete a circle. Align the handlebars and the bike will go straight in the direction you are pointing. It’s easy. So keep this image in your mind and fly the kite.
dragon safety
OK, now it’s time to talk about kite safety. Experienced aviators use what I call the “pre-launch checklist.” It becomes so natural they don’t even think about it – like checking there aren’t any cars on the road before you start pedaling.
Never fly near power lines or during a thunderstorm
Never fly near trees, houses, or over roads or highways
Be considerate of those around you and never fly a stunt kite over a person or animal. Stunt kites can move at speeds in excess of 100 mph and cause serious injury.
Kite setup and flying line
For a beginner, launching and getting control of a stunt kite is almost as difficult as getting on a bike and getting it rolling. After you get it right the first time, it becomes a lot easier. Unroll your flying lines and make sure they are exactly the same length. (If a line is a few inches shorter, the kite will think you’re pulling on that line and start spinning.) The lines should be around 75-100 feet long. Shorter lines reduce response time and make the kite fly too fast for most inexperienced flyers. Longer lines make maneuvers more difficult to complete.
Video: Kite components and assembly
Video: attaching kite lines
Launching the kite and first flight
It’s great for first time flyers to have a helper pick up the kite from behind and hold it by the base and center bar. Keep a little tension between the two of you so the fly lines don’t touch the ground. When the wind is strong enough, your helper just has to let go and the kite takes off into the air. And when the winds are lighter, give the kite a slight “push” by taking a step backwards when releasing the kite. After a little practice, it only takes one person to get the kite airborne.
Now think about it – it’s like riding a bike. You want to “roll” in a straight line, so don’t start steering right away. Don’t shake your hands or make sudden movements. Don’t get too excited and let go or start running. And please don’t raise your hands above your head because you think that will make the kite go up. It doesn’t help at all. I mean, you wouldn’t try to steer your bike with handlebars hanging over your head, would you?
Video: How to launch and fly a two-line kite
Steering and controlling the kite
Now we are ready to go anywhere. So pick up your kite where it crashed after the first launch, untangle the lines and let’s learn how to steer. If you want to turn your bike to the right, what do you do with your hands? Pull back your right grip. Visualize this movement. Now carefully do the same with your stunt kite handles.
As a novice flyer, your goal should be to maneuver the kite in a large, lazy figure of eight across the sky. Twist to the right like we just told you, stretch out to fly by bringing your hands evenly, twist a bit more to snake underneath, then stretch out again. Once you’ve gone all the way to the left, just repeat the process and turn the other way.
It’s like riding a bike in a figure eight, except you don’t have to pedal. If you get excited and pull too hard, the kite will jerk quickly and probably crash – almost like a bike if you turn too hard. But if you let yourself go, the kite will curve gracefully to the right. If you bring your hands back evenly, the kite will right itself. If you keep turning, the kite will fly all the way around in a circle.
If you’ve decided to fly a complete circle, or perhaps accidentally made one, you’ll find that your flying lines have now rotated around each other. That’s no reason to panic. You can easily put up to a dozen twists in a good set of lines before your control of the kite is affected. Just remember which way you twisted, take a breath, and then twist back the other way until all the twists are out.
If your kite has crashed with twists in the line, simply wrap the handles around each other until the twists disappear. This is much easier than having your helper pick up the kite and try to ‘untwist’ it.
Once you’ve practiced enough to perform a good figure eight, you’re ready to experiment with some more advanced maneuvers. Instead of pulling with your right hand to turn right, try pushing with your left hand. The result will be about the same, although the curve will be a bit sharper. Examine the differences between these “push turns” and “pull turns.” Advanced pilots use the difference to improve and perfect different types of maneuvers.
Fly all the way left and right. Experiment with how far your kite will go ‘out’. And notice that it slows down and then stops when it hits the “edge”.
Attempt a landing. Just fly to the edge and gently steer towards the ground. The idea is to hit the bottom at about the same time as the kite hits the edge. Try flying big smooth circles and then squares.
Problems encountered on the first flight
Bad wind
There may be too little or too much wind. The amount of wind you need to fly easily depends on the construction of your kite. You’re not trying to fly behind a big tree or building, are you? The wind there gets turbulent and really bad. Move upwind or find an open area.
False handitis
Is the line in your right hand attached to the right side of the kite? If not, you’ll get some really surprising results when you try to steer.
Unbalanced Lines
If a line is shorter, the kite will think you are pulling on that line and start spinning. If a person’s personality seems a little “off”, we say they may not be flying on lines of equal length.
twisted
Look at your dragon. Is it put together correctly? Pay special attention to the bridle lines. Is one wrapped over the spar and the other under? I also thought…
turn on
If your scales aren’t twisted, look at the connection points where you attach the fly lines. Are they equidistant from the nose of the kite? Usually kite builders mark the “factory setting” on every bridle. You can change the setting to adjust the performance of your kite, but make sure both sides of the kite are “tuned” the same.
Perform basic tricks
You have a sport kite and you can keep it flying. They learned to take off and do loops unaided. What are you doing now? How do you get the kite to do all those other tricks you’ve seen sport kites do?
In addition to lightly touching the lines, advanced users move their feet as much as their hands. Moving a few steps upwind while swinging your hands forward can significantly slow the kite, resulting in dramatic stalls and downwind axes.
barn
A stall occurs when the sport kite hovers nose up but does not move. The Axel is a spinning kite move that begins from a stall position. Most impressive when the kite is a few meters off the ground.
Axel
To move the kite, the flyer pulls on one line while giving slack to the other. A short sharp jerk. The kite flaps face down (while still airborne) and spins in a full circle before popping nose up and flying away. Be careful not to wrap the lines around a wing tip.
tortoise
A turtle is launched the same way, but the kite flaps backwards and does not rotate.
Is flying kite illegal?
– According to the Indian Aircraft Act in India, kite flying is considered illegal. If you also want to fly a kite, then you have to take permission before flying a kite. Yes, according to the Indian Aircraft Act, you need to take permission before flying any aircraft.
Which Thread Type Is Best For Kite Flying? – Kiting Planet
2/5 What does the law say? – According to the Indian Aircraft Act in India, hang gliding is considered illegal. If you also want to fly a kite, you must obtain a permit before flying a kite. Yes, under the Indian Aircraft Act you must obtain a permit before flying any aircraft. By law, any airplane or machine flown in the air must obtain a permit to do so.
3/5 At the same time, airships, kites, gliders, balloons and flying machines were only included in the aircraft category in this law. From this it can be seen that you need a license to fly a kite. At the same time, anyone violating this law will be jailed for 2 years and can be fined up to Rs 10 lakh.
4/5 Referring to this law, Prem Joshi, Senior Advocate of Delhi High Court said: “Under Section 11 of the Aircraft Act 1934, flying an aircraft in the wrong direction can be penalized with a fine of up to Rs 10 lakh. At the same time, this law was amended in 2008. Previously, the penalty provision in this law was 6 months imprisonment and a fine of 10,000 rupees. which has now been extended.
Should all kite lines be the same length?
The shorter the lines, the smaller the window, which equates to less potential power generation, less jumping ability, faster steering, tighter kite loops and more responsive handling. Meanwhile, the longer your lines, the larger your wind window.
Which Thread Type Is Best For Kite Flying? – Kiting Planet
To get the best performance and maximum range out of your kites, bar width and line length are two important factors to consider before hitting the water. It’s easily overlooked and often underestimated, but once you try different combinations of bars and lines for different conditions and kite sizes it’s easy to see how much of an impact changes can have on how your kite feels and flies.
Understanding the performance differences, getting familiar with different combinations in different conditions and having a few setups to choose from depending on the wind, your kite size and the type of riding you want to do that day is a huge benefit.
Whether you’re an experienced kiter looking for bigger airs, tighter loops, better wakestyle or a higher level of customized performance, or you’re a beginner who simply wants the most manageable setup for the conditions and a deeper understanding of it How your bar and lines affect your kite’s performance will make you a better kiter and help you get the most out of your time on the water.
Here are a few basics to get you thinking:
Let’s start with your bar:
For reference, Slingshot Compstick bars are available in 17″, 20″ and 23″ lengths
General guidelines:
A shorter bar gives you less leverage on your kite and a longer bar gives you more leverage, which can be good or bad depending on what size kite you’re mounting it on, how strong the wind is and how fast/responsive you want your kite to be. The general rule is to use a short 17″ bar for small kites (typically 4-6/7m), the long 23″ bar is for larger kites (around 12/13m and larger) and the 20 inch bar is the universal size works for all kites but is best for around 6/7m to around 12m.
The leverage of a longer bar is important for larger kites that fly slower and require more muscle to steer and generate power. Small kites are super fast and snappy, especially in high winds, and a smaller bar helps slow the controls down to a comfortable speed. There is no realistic situation where you would want to use a large bar on a small kite, but using a small bar on a medium sized kite or a medium bar on a large kite is often very helpful for beginners and for wakestyle riders who are this benefits a less responsive, slower steering kite that requires more input from the rider to move.
Shorter bar:
Used with small dragons and strong wings
Slows the kite’s steering speed
Less leverage over kite makes it less responsive
Helpful for beginners, not so “sensitive” steering
Good for learning new tricks and wakestyle
Longer bar:
More leverage, helps with larger kites
More reactive control over the kite
More responsive control over the kite Better for jumping (faster kite movement)
Less work to move the kite and generate speed
Increase the steering speed of the kite
Now to the lines:
For reference, Slingshot Compstick rods come with the following line lengths: 17” rod, 20m line; 20″ bar, 20m lines + 3m extensions; 23 inch bar, 27 m lines
General guidelines:
Line length is directly related to the size of the wind window you need to play in. The shorter the lines, the smaller the window, which equates to lower potential power generation, less jumping ability, quicker steering, tighter kiteloops and more responsive handling. The longer your lines, the larger your wind window. That means more potential power generation, higher possible airs and slower, less responsive handling. Longer lines also get your kite further out of the water where the wind tends to be stronger.
These performance differences can be seen as good or bad – it all depends on what type of rider you are, what kite size you are into and what the wind is doing. Our advice is simple – don’t get stuck with one setup for everything. Try different setups with different kites to see what you like best and what you want to do.
3m extensions:
Don’t leave the house without them! The 3 meter line extensions that come standard with the Slingshot 20″ Compstick are an invaluable tool for changing the range and performance of any kite in your quiver. They can be added or removed from the end of your lines in about a minute and make a huge difference in your kite’s performance. If you want a little more power, jumping ability or a little slower control, add the extensions or detach them if you want more responsive handling, tighter kite loops, quicker control and better wave performance.
Shorter lines (20m)
Faster turning speed
Less power
Faster/tighter kite loops
Simple reboot
More responsive at the bar
Better for super gusty wind
Preferred for surfing
Longer Lines (27m)
Slower steering
Less responsive at the bar
Higher jump potential
Better low-end performance
More power generation
Better for light winds and lulls
Check out how to install your 3m line extensions.
Do kite lines stretch?
“Kite lines stretch over time. The front lines usually stretch more because they’re normally subject to more tension. If you anchor the ends of a well-used set of lines to a common attachment point on land, and lay the lines out, you may find that the front lines have stretched several inches more than the rear.”
Which Thread Type Is Best For Kite Flying? – Kiting Planet
stretch
shrink
When I discussed on another forum the problems with the back line lengths of my foil kites, which were supplied too long to supposedly allow the front lines to stretch in the first few hours, I was “explained” that what we perceive is not which is stretching of the front lines, but shrinking of the back lines (rationalized by “creep” or “sand and dung gets into the fibers” and other similar ideas…), a kind of “explanation” I’m even seeing more and more on this enlightened forum. I have always read and have been told so far by the manufacturers and the people who should know better (instructors, pros) that the lines stretch with time and repeated loading and that is why they are pre-stretched and these low stretch ones Quality as a selling point, just like lines and ropes used in other areas. This was published in 2008 and reflects my level of knowledge on the subject. Have the facts evolved since then?” Kite lines stretch over time. The front lines usually stretch more because they are usually under more tension. If you anchor the ends of a commonly used set of lines to a common attachment point on land, and as you lay out the lines, you may find that the front lines have stretched a few inches more than the rear lines. Spectra exhibits a small amount of stretch , any stretch caused by the stresses of flight can misalign a scale or cause flying lines to mismatch in length. This is why every reputable manufacturer stretches their lines before assembly so their kites will fit their flight shape and theirs Better maintain trim properties. Spectra fans will point out that it only stretches about 3%, or about half as much as Dyneema creep is real and what s material to learn about kitesurfing and their respective benefits. Are the lines pre-stretched to prevent shrinkage? For example, what is the market share of Spectra wtr Dyneema?
How do you make a kite steady?
Air flowing around the tail pulls the bottom of the kite in the direction that the wind is blowing. Adding a kite tail is possibly the easiest and quickest way to make your kite stabilize itself. However, sometimes the kite has a tendency to turn or curve to one side, and you may be tempted to add more tail.
Which Thread Type Is Best For Kite Flying? – Kiting Planet
If you are new to kite flying, you may find that sometimes your kite will lose its balance, flap from side to side, or even spin and then fall to the ground. In such situations you might be tempted to attach a tail or two to your kite, however many other factors can make your kite unbalanced. These are the most common factors:
Kite spars are unbalanced or broken
Knots, tangles or twists in the bridle
Uneven bridle lengths
Not enough tension in the kite line or wrong type of kite line causing tension problems
Uneven lengths of kite tails when you have 2 (or more) tails attached
In this article we will briefly talk about the parts of a kite and then go into detail as to why your kite is unbalanced and how to fix the common problems mentioned above.
parts of a kite
Knowing the different parts of your kite will help you troubleshoot when your kite is out of balance.
Parts of a Diamond Kite
A spar is the name for one of the sticks that act as the kite’s “skeleton”. The spine is the spar that runs from the top to the bottom of the kite. The transverse spar is the spar that runs from wingtip to wingtip, usually left to right and vice versa. The word frame can also be used to describe the entire skeleton of a dragon.
The leading edges of the kite are usually closer to the top of the kite. They are the edges that the wind flows over first, as they face or lead into the wind. The trailing edges are the edges around which the wind flows last.
The bridle is the line that connects the kite to the flying or kite line that you hold on to. Some kites have a bridle attached to the kite itself in two places, and other kites use bridles attached to the kite in many places. The point where the flying line attaches to the bridle is called the bridle point.
The kite’s covering is called the sail. On a standard diamond-shaped kite, the sail is divided into 4 sections by the spars. The two small areas at the top of the kite are called the pilot’s sails. Pilot sails partially control the direction of the kite. The two larger segments are referred to as driving sails. The drive sails provide most of the lift.
Parts of a delta kite
In the picture above you can see a slightly different kite. This kite is known as the delta kite due to its triangular shape. You can also see that instead of a bridle, there is a keel. A keel is a piece of material on the underside of the kite. It is usually perpendicular to the rest of the kite when in the air. The keel helps keep the kite stable and provides a hole to attach the kite line where the line attachment is indicated.
A kite’s tail refers to the strips of paper, plastic, or fabric attached to the trailing edge of a kite to increase the kite’s drag. Dragons may or may not have tails. Tails can be varied in size and length. Tails are usually attached to the bottom of a kite, but can also be attached to the wingtips.
The spars of a kite can be bent or bent to give the cross spar a V-angle. These kites are usually known as curved kites. On curved kites, the cross spar is curved so that the wingtips are at a slight backward angle to the backbone. This helps to make the kite stable. When the kite begins to roll to one side, the wing on that side offers more surface area to the wind. Conversely, the wing appears to shrink on the opposite side with respect to the surface wind. More pressure on the wing with more surface area exposed to the wind will in turn force the kite to return to a stable normal.
angle of attack
The bridle is used to control a kite’s angle of attack. This is the angle at which the kite meets the wind.
In aerodynamics, the term “angle of attack” is used to describe the angle between the chord of the wing and the direction of wind flow. The chord of a wing refers to the distance between the front and back of a wing, measured in the direction of airflow.
Image by J Doug McLean at English Wikipedia – Own work using MS Excel, CC BY-SA 3.0
picture
The amount of lift generated by a wing is directly related to the angle of attack. Larger or greater angles create more lift and in turn create more drag as the front of the wing or kite rotates up creating more friction.
A low angle of attack usually reduces the tension on the kite string. The kite also flies closer to the vertical above the kite flyer.
A high angle of attack usually increases the pull on the flying line because it creates more lift. The kite flyer needs a steady hand to prevent the kite from flying away or the kite line from breaking.
There is also a limit called the critical angle of attack. Above this angle, any kite (or wing, for that matter) will produce what is known as a wing stall. You may have heard or experienced that car stalls – this is what happens when a car’s engine accidentally stalls.
When we talk about kite stalling, it is because when the angle of attack is too high (see image below) the layer of air above the kite dissipates and cuts off the airflow. This in turn cancels out the pressure difference between the upper and lower layers of air. Buoyancy is reduced to zero and with no buoyancy there is no longer any power keeping your kite afloat.
Image from KiteSurfCulture.com | picture
If you feel your kite line is too tight, let out more line – this usually decreases the angle of attack and reduces the chance of your kite stalling. Properly made kites will balance easily once some tension is released on the kite line. Be careful not to release the entire kite line or your kite will drift away!
If your kite has stalled and fallen to the ground it is best to go to where your kite fell, check for damage and then attempt to relaunch.
Forces affecting a dragon
There are 4 forces acting on a kite when it flies: gravity, lift, thrust and drag. These are the same forces that affect airplanes and even birds. This section is short but important to make sure your kite flies!
Image from Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum | picture
To get a kite airborne, the lift force must be greater than gravity. In order for a kite to fly stably, all 4 forces must be in balance. Lift must equal gravity and thrust must equal drag.
Remember these 4 forces work together to keep your kite afloat. If you trust your kite to be well balanced then you should read our related articles below to learn more about why your kite is either bottoming or not launching at all. If your kite twists, turns or veers to one side or stalls constantly, read on for tips on how to fix it!
When Dragons Go Unbalanced and How to Fix It
Now that you have a basic understanding of the parts of a kite, we can move on to physically checking your kite for any issues that can cause it to become unbalanced.
We’ll use a simple diamond-shaped kite for the examples below, as these are usually the easiest to fix. For more complicated designs you may need to check with your local kite shop or kite club.
The following areas are common issues when balancing a kite:
Kite frames or spars
Kite spars are unbalanced or broken
However, there are times when the kite’s spars are unbalanced or broken. A good sign of this is if your kite constantly flaps to one side or turns in one direction. In this case, first check this page for broken spars. Broken spars must be carefully removed without piercing the sail and then replaced. A good kite shop or your local kite club can help you with this.
If your kite’s spars are not balanced, the following steps will help you determine key points on your kite.
Place a long ruler on the back of the kite, connect the left and right wingtips, then mark where the rules cross the spine. We call this the “wing tip line marking”. Place your kite’s spine on your fingertip and adjust its position until it is balanced in the top-to-bottom direction. Make a mark on the spine at the balance point – this will be the “balance point”.
The location of the balance point is usually closer to the kite’s nose in relation to the wing tip line mark. When the balance point is more than 1.25″ (32mm) from the wing tip line mark (towards the tip of the kite) your kite is less likely to flip and therefore more stable.
If the balance point is closer to the wing tip line mark, your kite is more likely to flip or spin. In such cases, you should check that you have set up the spars correctly for your kite (i.e. there may be confusion as to which spar should be the wingtip-to-wingtip cross spar and which spar should be the spine).
If the balance point is closer to the bottom of your kite from the wing tip line marker, the kite will rotate with the bottom halfway through the turn.
While a kite’s center of gravity is determined by the construction of the kite, it is very easy to change the location of the center of gravity by adding putty to change the kite’s weight and therefore its center of gravity. You may have heard of carving or thinning bamboo or wood spars to achieve balance, but we recommend putty for beginners for its ease of use.
Stupid putty | Image from MomFabFun.com
Depending on which direction you want to move the balance point, apply small amounts of putty to the top or bottom of the kite. You can then try balancing your kite on your fingertip again to check its balance.
It’s easier to apply small amounts than trying to scrape off excess. It’s also easier to change the position of the balance point once you start flying the kite.
Remember that tiny adjustments to your kite can greatly affect its flight and handling. It’s best to balance your kite after applying a small amount of putty, or even try flying it to check its balance before adding more.
Uneven stiffness of the spars
On larger kites, a horizontal/transverse spar with uneven stiffness can often be the cause of the kite turning.
Flat kites with 1 or 2 leg harnesses will usually warp with air pressure, which is perfectly fine. However, depending on the stiffness of your kite’s spars, sometimes one side of the spar may flex more than the other. When this happens the effective sail area becomes unequal and causes the kite to turn towards the side with less sail area.
As mentioned earlier in this article, there are also curved kites. Bent kites are generally self-correcting; If the horizontal spars are unequal in stiffness, the less stiff side will flex more than the other. This can cause the kite to become unbalanced in even light winds and becomes very noticeable in strong winds, resulting in poor handling.
Trying to feel how stiff a spar is is usually never accurate. A good way to check that both bars have the same stiffness is to attach both bars to the edge of a table or bench and hang two small, identical weights from the end of both bars. Use a ruler or a long ruler to check which spar flexes more – this is the more flexible one.
The stiffer spar will need to be sanded or filed in diameter to accommodate. Again, be sure to grind or file small amounts at a time and then check for stiffness. You can’t undo a mistake here, so go slow!
In certain kite designs, the kite’s backbone also affects the kite’s flight quite drastically. For example, a delta kite with a slightly curved backbone can cause it to twist and dive. In this case, you can try to straighten the spine, gently bending it in the opposite direction. If that doesn’t help, you may need to replace the spine.
bridle
Uneven bridle lengths
If you’ve checked your spars and they look fine, but your kite is still spinning constantly or side to side and just generally doesn’t fly straight, your kite’s bridle may need a little adjustment.
There may be a knot where your kite line is connected or attached to the bridle. Moving or shifting this knot along the bottom bridle line toward the bottom of the kite reduces the kite’s tendency to turn and generally stabilizes the kite. Moving the knot up increases the kite’s tendency to spin.
If the kite keeps turning or turning to the right, the length of the bridle line on the right side is too short. There may also be a knot that can be slipped on either the right or left of your bridle. If the kite keeps twisting or turning to the left, move the knot to the right and vice versa. This right-left balance is a delicate adjustment, so you should only move the node about 1/64 inch (0.5mm) at a time.
If you don’t have a knot on your bridle to adjust for, but your bridle lines can be untied, it may also be a good idea to untie them and check that they are the same length. Bridles with unmatched lengths tend to pull your kite in one direction and make it more likely to turn.
Even these tiny adjustments should be tested by flying the kite for between 5 and 10 minutes to see the results of your adjustment. Repeat these steps until your kite flies straight.
Knots, tangles or twists in the bridle
Knots, tangles, or twists can be a source of frustration—just like when they’re in your hair, you need to comb and smooth them out. This applies to all of those in your kite’s bridle and even the kite leash.
These little things – knots, tangles or twists – can cause you to accidentally pull your kite unevenly. If your kite is not balanced it will either turn or dive – not ideal if you just want to enjoy a peaceful time flying. If there are knots in your bridle or kite line they can also snap if there is enough tension and your kite will fly away.
When setting up your kite for the first time always check all lines for knots or tangles. If there are any you should always undo them before launching your kite. For turns that can occur mid-flight, you should furl your kite and carefully wind it up before re-launching.
When undoing knots or tangles, always ensure that the line(s) are not worn out. Wear can occur over time and is also amplified when lines constantly rub against each other.
Material of kite and kite line
Materials used in the construction of the kite can also cause your kite to become unbalanced. This is especially true if you’ve made your own kite out of everyday materials like fabric, kitchen twine, wooden or bamboo dowels.
kite sail
Kite sails these days are typically made from ripstop nylon. If you’ve decided to build your own kite, remember that using paper or fabric can cause problems with flying.
Paper can tear easily and, unless treated waterproof, can also be damaged by water, especially when flying in the rain.
Depending on the type of fabric used, your kite sail may also stretch over time as it carries a load. This can cause your kite to become unbalanced, especially if one section stretches more than the other. Using a soft plastic – garbage bags for example – that can stretch easily can also cause your kite to become unbalanced.
If you want to use recycled materials to make a kite sail, we recommend using a recycled bin liner or a plastic bag that is thicker than regular bin liners.
kite line
You might be tempted to use kitchen twine or butcher twine as a kite or flying line, but they will stretch over time as you carry a load. This will result in the stability of your kite changing with continued use. It may be best to purchase a kite line with a handle from a local kite shop.
dragon spars
Using wooden dowels for your kite spars can be cheap and easy. You can also add some weight to your kite to ensure stability, however dowels tend to break. Also check the flexibility of these dowels and make sure they are the right length. A small difference can change your hang gliding experience from good to bad.
If you are able, using carbon or fiberglass poles will add to the stability of your kite. If you have access to bamboo, you can also use it for your kite’s spars, using the same tips as above for wooden dowels.
dragon tail(s)
The drag caused by the tail of a kite keeps the kite from turning too much to one side or the other. A tail gives a kite lateral stability. If a kite has a tail that is too small, it will not be laterally stable and will move a lot or even turn. If the kite has too much tail the kite will be stable but may be difficult to stay flying due to the added weight of the excess tail.
Kite tails allow us to steer the kite in the right direction. Air flowing around the tail pulls the underside of the kite in the direction the wind is blowing.
Adding a kite tail might be the easiest and quickest way to self-stabilize your kite. However, sometimes the kite will tend to twist or curve to one side and you might be tempted to add more tail. While this is better in the short term, in the long run you may want to add a small tail on the side the kite turns away from. This will add some weight to that side and help the kite correct itself.
Delta kite with 2 tails
If you bought a delta kite with 2 tails and it’s still unbalanced, here are some troubleshooting steps you can try:
Remove both tails and try to fly your kite without the tails. If your kite flies well without the tails, it may be best to omit the tails. If you decide to leave the tails on, measure and check that both tails are the same length. If one is longer than the other, trim it until both are the same length. If your kite doesn’t fly well even without the tail, check the rest of the kite – frame, bridle, sail material, kite fly.
We hope that after reading this article you will know more about why a kite can become unbalanced and how to balance your kite if necessary.
How often should I replace my kite lines?
As for Lines on your bar, this all depends on how much use they get, I kite as much as I can, which is normally 2 -3 times a week and after a full season I make sure I renew my bar or on sell and buy a new one. Of course if you are only kiting a few times a month or similar then they should be good for 2 -3 years.
Which Thread Type Is Best For Kite Flying? – Kiting Planet
The P lines shrink after a good season so replacing them was a smart move. If your kite is in otherwise healthy condition, it’s probably not a bad idea to replace your bride so all of your kite lines are strong and certainly in tune with the kite. Since you’ve already bought the other parts from us, I’m happy to throw you a set of 10 bridles for free. I’ll send you a PM to confirm your address etc.
As for the lines on your bar, it all depends on how much they are used. I kite as much as I can which is usually 2-3 times a week and after a full season I make sure to renew my bar or sell and buy a new one. Of course if you only kite a few times a month or something like that they should be good for 2-3 years.
Check out this video that shows you how to check your bar and lines for correct tuning 🙂
Hi Kajo, the P lines shrink after a good season so replacing them was a smart move. If your kite is in otherwise healthy condition, it’s probably not a bad idea to replace your bride so all of your kite lines are strong and certainly in tune with the kite. Since you’ve already bought the other parts from us, I’m happy to throw you a set of 10 bridles for free. I’ll PM you to confirm your address etc. As for the lines on your bar, it all depends on how often they are used. I kite as much as possible which is usually 2-3 times a week and after a full season I make sure to refresh my bar or sell and buy a new one. Of course if you only kite a few times a month or something like that they should be good for 2-3 years. Check out this video that shows you how to check your bar and lines for correct alignment 🙂
cheers
Peter
BWSurfing
0431 447 496
Can you use a 5 line bar on a 4 line kite?
4 line control bars can be used for just about any kite and so can 5 line bars, but the 5th line would need to first be removed.
Which Thread Type Is Best For Kite Flying? – Kiting Planet
YOUR PROS AND CONS GUIDE TO CHOOSING THE BEST BAR & LINES FOR YOUR KITESURFING SESSIONS!
The newer the better!
If you are a kiter, then you should already know the functions and safety of your bar & lines down to the smallest detail! TEST: Now can you tell yourself which line is your quick release flag line? Center left, center right or center 5th line?
Okay, not only do all the bells and whistles improve with control bars every year, but their innovative designs make kitesurfing a lot safer these days. Older used bars usually always have their normal signs of use, such as e.g. stretched lines, unreliable safety systems, worn pigtails, snapped bar grips and restricted or rusted moving/rotating parts. Remember that any colored parts you see on beams and lines are intentionally colored for your safety protection and these parts should be satisfactorily ticked off as above! The good news is that most parts of the control bar are easily accessible and replaceable.
4-line and 5-line control bars
You will see more kiters using 4 line control systems but there are kiters who love using their 5 line. Personally, I’ve always used 4-line systems because they’re just simpler. 4 line control rods can be used on almost any kite as can 5 line bars but the 5th line would need to be removed first.
Note: Some 5th line bars may or may not have a 100% depower flag line after removing the 5th line.
5 lines of benefits
Easier restart in lighter wind.
After activating the quick release, the kite flaps out on the 5th line without any pressure or tension.
Some use the fifth line for easier self-landing.
Some kites need the 5th line to fly properly.
5 line cons
The construction takes a little longer.
After several loops, the 5th line can become twisted around the middle lines, negatively affecting safety and performance.
When the kite reverses the 5th line can wrap around the kite making a relaunch quite difficult or impossible. It can tear apart your dragon too!
4-line professionals
Easy easy
4-line control rods can be used on almost any kite. (Some simple adjustments may be required)
Faster and easier setup
Easy relaunch by simply pulling one of the outer flying lines.
Less chance of lines tearing your kite into total sadness.
When you get “Spaghetti Lines” you just miserably and embarrassingly have to sort 4 lines instead of 5.
4 line cons
In light winds, the relaunch can be a little trickier.
Self-landing requires a bit more skill.
Anatomy of the Control Bar
This is my personal current 4 line control bar of 2019. I love its innovative simplicity and security. I especially like that the Center Line Swivel is BELOW the bar and the Power/Depower adjustment plate is ABOVE the bar. This is a fantastic, simple, safe and easy to use style of control bar.
Below I will go over some of the differences and pros and cons in the anatomy of the current control bars on the market. This is to help you choose the right bar and lines of your personal preference. I start at the chicken loop and work my way up to the kite lines. So sit back, crack a coldie and enjoy this informative ride!
1. Chicken loop
The chickenloop you see in the photo above is the most commonly used type. Below are a few brands that have revolutionized by developing their own different method of strapping on and making chicken loops.
All of these connection options really just come down to personal preference.
2. Chicken sticks
The Chicken Stick has a simple purpose, it is designed to attach the Chicken Loop to the Harness Hook. Most kiters will use these throughout their session, but advanced kiters who choose unhooked tricks will sometimes release them just before attempting their trick. Most chicken sticks are now designed to be easily flung out of the way.
3. Safety Depower Flagline and Ring
Many connecting rings are now crafted with 2 connected rings, a small ring and a large ring. By simply connecting your safety line to one of the rings you get 100% depower and this exercise is the most used. But sometimes, for sick trick reasons, advanced riders prefer to slip the chickenloop through the larger ring and connect their safety line to the smaller ring, in what’s called the “Suicide Connection”. This suicide mode is not recommended as the kite will only depower the amount of throw of the main line under the stopper piece when the bar is released in an unhooked situation. But the suicide setup can be made such that the kite is 100% flagged and depowered when the quick release is engaged and releasing the chickenloop. When released, the leash connection ring slides off the free end of the chicken loop and marks the kite.
The Safety Depower Line can be either inside or outside. You can’t see the safety line on my control bar as it is inside the thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) centerline tubing, resulting in a much simpler and cleaner control bar. The rope itself remains protected from wear and tear, sun and salt water damage.
4. Safety quick release
There are different styles of quick release and they are all in the same place, just above the chicken loop, allowing for quick and easy release to hopefully save you from unwanted KITEMARES!! However, some shares are counterintuitive. So when trying out a new control bar, always test your safety system before you start kiting. For example, there are chicken loops that release by pushing them away, some release by pulling on them, while others release by twisting the collar. And to top it off, there are even some older, not recommended systems where the chicken loops are fixed and won’t come loose at all! 😵 Back in 2007 I broke my ankle from an old quick release system from 2005 that you literally had to put a couple of fingers through a loop and pull to release, long story short, it doesn’t close very well works to my advantage! Well… now in 2019 security clearance systems have improved to a much higher level of security!
On a lighter note, quick release skewers are also simply used to safely self-land kites. Below are a few different examples of Safety Quick.
Any of the above quick releases work great and again it just comes down to personal preference.
5. Centerline pivot
Today on newer models most of the swivels are below the bar which I prefer. Good for keeping this part clean and spinning freely. This is used to untwist your center lines when twisted by tricks like back rolls, front rolls and more advanced tricks like kite loops and down loops. In the days leading up to the whirls, I had to pause my session, stand on the beach and twist my body in circles until all the twists were released. Center line swivels are very handy!
I recommend the pivots under the bar for easier access. Swirls above the bar, as in the photo above, are far away and difficult to reach. Especially if you have short arms and even worse if you are using a waist belt as the belt tends to be drawn higher into the core area of the body allowing the vertebra to be reached even further.
6. Adjustable rod lengths and different size rods
Many brands are now making their control bars an all-in-one bar for small and larger kites. Depending on the brand, they have their own easy way to make adjustments at the ends of the bar to bring the outer brake lines closer together or farther away. An all in one bar is very convenient for kiters who travel or have limited space in their cars to store multiple control bars etc. A smaller bar size is more suitable. More importantly, the larger kites require a longer rod to spin the kites faster and more efficiently. Be careful not to use a bar that is too long for smaller kites as it can be dangerous to turn the kites too fast resulting in possible KITEMARES!
Here’s a simple example of a large control bar and a small control bar. Personally I would only use the smaller Compact Bar when flying 9m kites or smaller. Anything larger, I use the default bar. The length of the control rods ranges from about 45 cm to 60 cm.
7. Line Safety Float
These are basically there for two reasons, to protect your hands/fingers from the flying lines and also to keep your bar floating for various reasons when it is submerged in the water. Different brands make these in different sizes, colors and shapes.
8. Midline or (main line)
It is extremely important to keep this part in good condition as it demands constant power from the kite. Wear and tear occurs over time, so it’s always good to do maintenance inspections. Some are simply made with the rope exposed and others are ropes with a protective covering called thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU). Without the TPU, there will be more wear on the rope as the bar slides up and down while kiting. The TPU reduces this wear and gives it a longer lifespan. However, remember that with the TPU, you cannot see the condition of the rope inside. Personally, while kiting, the center line cable with TPU coating was torn apart, which resulted in the kite falling out of the sky with only the outer control lines attached and crashing into the surf zone. So be careful !!
Here is a good example of wear and tear on both the main center line and safety line. It’s always smart to replace these parts when you start seeing shredding. These ropes are also subjected to strong and constant pressure and it can potentially be very dangerous if they break. Not only unsafe for others around you, but imagine catching a big 30 foot. Air and mid-air snaps at you, the kiter is coming down!! 😬
9. TPU guide lines
Guide lines are basically there for extra protection and comfort when pulling on one of the outer lines to launch or relaunch kites. Basically kite lines wrapped with thin TPU.
10. Power/Depower Adjustment Cleat Sheet Systems
Most newer panels have these located above the bar, but there are many panels that have them located below the bar. There are many types of masking systems these days, so I’ll break them down for you! A common one is a simple loop of rope placed either above or below the bar. Another common type is a buckle pull system just above the bar. I personally prefer my over the bar sheet system as it is easier to pull while the kite is powered up. I have found trying to tighten the sheet system under the bar while the kite is powered on is quite difficult and cumbersome. BUT, under-the-bar sheet systems work well for kiters with short arms, making them easier to reach. If you have short arms and can’t get over the bar sheeting system, that’s no good and can cause problems when trying to depower your kite when needed. In that case I would strongly suggest a planking system below the bar. Some advanced riders prefer the system under the bar so they can attach their leash to it for unhooked tricks, giving them ample depower if they wipeout and the bar flies out of their hands.
Also, some brands have done away with the cleat system altogether and introduced their own different methods of engaging and disengaging the kite.
Below I have provided you with some pictures showing the different methods.
Below are 2 of the newer approaches to depowering/powering the kite.
The Sidewinder
Full trim control with one button
Spin the Sidewinder to add power, bump or nudge to depower. Quarter turns provide 1cm of trim, five full turns of blades in 21cm of direct 1:1 trim adjustment! Instantly depower your kite with a quick downward movement of the button, or nudge it to gradually depower. With only one moving part, the simple open design allows for quick dirt flushing, easy inspection of all parts and easy maintenance if required. With your trim control always within reach, trim adjustment becomes intuitive and can be done on the fly without having to leave the water.
Note: Sidewinder offers a 1:1 overall trim adjustment of 21cm or 42cm of traditional 2:1 depower with lug pulleys.
From my research and conversations with other kiters it seems that they love these new concepts! They are clean with no dangling ropes or straps. I’ve only tried The Winder once and admittedly it was weird for me, but I think if you’re going to teach this old dog new tricks I’d have to use it many times to become fully comfortable with the change. However, I imagine that if I were in a situation where I needed to depower my kite quickly, either the cleat and pulley or the strapped pull system would be faster than having to do multiple twists/spins on these bars.
So all of these systems come down to personal preference, but hopefully I’ve enlightened you with a few things to think about when making your choice of depower systems.
11. Kite Strings
Kite lines, also called flight lines, are made of very strong polyethylene and are manufactured by Spectra (USA) or Dyneema (Europe). Also on the market are the high quality Q Power Pro lines which are top notch! The breaking load of high-quality kite lines is between 661 pounds and 992 pounds.
Note: 5th row not shown in this diagram
All lines required to fly your kite are as follows:
2 front lines or center lines
2 back lines, outer lines or control lines
Pigtails and connectors (these are the smaller connections between the lines and the kite
5th line (only used on some brands)
Bridle System (These lines stay permanently attached to the kite and some brands offer connection options to fine tune the way the kite flies)
In order for the kite to fly properly, the 2 front and 2 rear lines must be of the same length. Over time, lines can stretch, especially the front lines due to the constant pull and power of the kite. Some fine-tuning line adjustments will be necessary at some point, and there are many different ways to do this.
Most kite line lengths are variable and are usually between 20 and 27 m. However, some kiters prefer even shorter lines or even longer lines. It really depends on your kite style, tricks and/or wind speeds as length actually affects kite performance. In general, longer lines are more beneficial in light winds as they get the kite higher in the sky and also allow the kite to fly through a larger wind window, giving more power. Shorter lines are more beneficial in stronger winds, but offer less performance and have a smaller wind window. Below is a list of the benefits of short leashes, standard leashes, and longer leash lengths.
Shorter lines (15m-19m)
Kite moves faster through the wind window
Ideal for powered kite loops and surfing
More control, direct steering
Less intense kite crashes
Elevated high end
Standard lines (20m-24m)
Most bars come with this length of cord, making this the optimal combination of speed and power
Good turning speed
Good optimal low-end/high-end performance
High jumps
Great kitesurfing fun all around!
Longer lines (25m-30m)
Ideal for light wind but slower turning speed
Extra power and low-end grunt
Ideal for racing
Brand new control poles come with their standard length lines attached to the poles and usually include 3m line extensions as an option to add to your lines. I’ve also seen certain brands package their control bar with the lead extensions already attached to the standard leads. It’s up to you to add or remove the extensions.
Personally, I only fly with 20m lines and am quite happy with it. So take control of your control bar and be safe my friends!!
I hope you enjoyed this article and learned a few new things. You can check out some of my other posts below.
Are kite bars interchangeable?
More often than not, you can mix any modern 4-line kite with any 4-line bar.
Which Thread Type Is Best For Kite Flying? – Kiting Planet
I’ve used a lot of different brands over the years. Cabrinha, Slingshot, Liquid Force, North, Duotone, Naish, Airush and more. When I first started at the store, I was surprised to see that the crew was always mixing control bars. Most of the time you can mix any modern 4 line kite with any 4 line bar. However, there are a few things to consider.
It’s a common question. Can I mix kiteboarding control bars?
Things to look out for:
pigtail connections
adjustability
Y or V split
security systems
Most bars are compatible, but there are a few things to consider. Personally, there are some brands that I will not mix.
pigtails
The first thing to check are the pigtail connections. Some brands have opposite pigtails. If that’s the case, just swap the pigtails and you’re good to go. If for some reason you don’t have detachable pigtails, you can use universal adapters.
The high Y or the low V split
Make sure you use a bar with a split designed for your kite. This is called a Y or V split. Is it a high Y or a low Y? This changes the dynamics of your kite. Ideally, this should match the designer’s intent. The Duotone Click Bar and Liquid Force Mission Control Bar have adjustable splits, so this is a great workaround.
adjustability
A minor consideration is that some poles have three knots on the steering lines. Others only offer one. If your kite was designed to be flown on the center knot and you don’t have that knot you will miss out on some of the performance of your kite.
For example, the Cabrinha, Slingshot, and Liquid Force all have adjustments to the steering line. You can rig close to the kite for more power, use the middle standard knot, or far away to take power from the kite. If your staff only has one knot like Duotone, you’re missing out on this benefit.
Some older kiteboarding control bars have different safety systems
Older bars
As a general rule, do not mix old bars with new kites. Designs have changed even in the last 8 years. If you go back in time, the security systems are not always compatible. A good example is trying to pair a 2011 Cabrinha IDS Control Bar with a modern kite. The kite may fly, but you are taking a risk and compromising the quick release system.
With some older bars, you could even disable the safety system. Plus, after almost a decade of use, it’s good practice to have fresh lines anyway. The kite flies better and you don’t have to worry about a line snapping half a mile away.
Other dynamics can change the feel of the kite as well. Some bars make kites slower, others can add some bar pressure. In addition, each bar is set up a little differently.
MACkite Ambassador Hilary Huffman tests a Cabrinha Control Bar
Favorite brands to mix
The three brands I mix the most are Cabrinha, Slingshot, and Liquid Force. These seem to work perfectly together. A good example of how the dynamics change is when using a Cabrinha bar on a Liquid Force kite. The Liquid Force Control Bar has a small gap between the line float and the bar. This helps the bar respond more quickly. I have found that using the Cabrinha bar actually slows the kite down just a touch and adds a little welcome bar pressure. I prefer moderate bar pressure. In 2019 I switched to the Liquid Force Amp Control Bar. It has molded floats and also seemed to give the NV V9 a touch more bar pressure.
Some kiteboarding brands also mix up their pigtails. For example, Naish Kiteboarding and Duotone have different pigtails. By swapping out the pigtails or using PKS universal adapters, you can still mix the other brands with these.
Testing the 2020 Duotone Gambler in Spain
I don’t mix brands
When it comes to duotone kites, my personal preference is to use duotone poles. I don’t have a good explanation for this other than that their kites have a unique design approach and I like how they feel with the original bar. They were designed with a high Y split, but of course you can use the low split on the click bar.
Funny note… I’ve used the Airush Diamond Bar on a few kites and as it’s a female bar the throw was a bit shorter than what I’m used to. On crossover kites it reduced my depower but I enjoyed the smaller grip!
I often mix Cabrinha and Liquid Force
in summary
There’s nothing wrong with mixing brands. Most of the time it will work. You might even like the changes. Still, sticking with the brand is always a safe bet. If your kite is designed for a high or low V, try adjusting that. If it’s a specific kite, like a 5 line or something, by all means stick with the brand.
If you have any questions, use our live chat to confirm. You can also add me anytime and reach me via Instagram.
Ryan (Rygo) Golovesic
Many people dream of quitting their job, traveling the world and pursuing their passions. Rygo is one of those who pulled the trigger. A few years into his post career he decided to change everything and travel as a kiteboarder, freelance videographer and writer. Its mission is to help people and share the Stoke. Go out and kite!
Producer of: Ride with Blake I Sessions I Versus I Destinations I Foil Fridays
Are stunt kites hard to fly?
However, if you’ve never flown a kite before, it can be a bit confusing. Luckily, flying a stunt kite is relatively easy if you assemble your kite properly and keep in mind that symmetry and control is key.
Which Thread Type Is Best For Kite Flying? – Kiting Planet
Article overview
X
To fly a stunt kite, first tie each of the two kite lines to the kite’s bridle on their respective sides and unwind the lines about 75 feet. Then position the kite a few steps in front of you, nose up. Next, take a big step backwards while quickly pulling your hands to your sides to force the kite into the air. Once the kite is in the sky, steer it to the right by gently pulling the right cord, or to the left by gently pulling the left cord. For more advice including what to do if your lines get tangled, read on!
How much wind do you need to fly a stunt kite?
Evaluate The Wind
Most stunt kites only need wind speeds of about 6 to 30 kilometers per hour to fly well. Also, keep in mind that altitude can drastically change the wind speed, with higher altitudes often having higher winds.
Which Thread Type Is Best For Kite Flying? – Kiting Planet
In general, most stunt kites require light to moderate winds between 10 and 35 kilometers per hour to fly properly. However, a kite’s wind requirements still depend on its material and how much wind it can withstand.
Stunt kite flying has been a fun pastime for many generations. Kite flying, which only requires a kite and the wind, may sound like an easy task, but there’s more to know about it. So if you want to have a good kite flying experience, stay here and let’s learn more about the art of stunt kite flying!
The wind and stunt kites: 5 important things you need to know
1. Medium winds work well for most stunt kites
Most kites fly in wind speeds of 4 to 15 miles per hour, about 6 to 30 kilometers per hour, or 4 to 16 knots on the Beaufront wind scale. If you don’t like using wind forecasts or anemometers to analyze how much wind it takes to fly a stunt kite, a good indicator that there is enough wind is when leaves rustle or dance and trees sway gently and moderate dust flies around. (Source)
2. Smooth wind is better than strong wind
To ensure an excellent kite flying experience, a gentle “normal” wind rather than strong winds is essential. To find gentle wind, you must first familiarize yourself with the boundary layer and free current.
The boundary layer is the area between the ground and the point where disturbances no longer affect the wind. However, the thickness of the boundary layer varies with height, which can also affect your kite differently. (Source)
The area from the end of the boundary layer and beyond is called the free stream. The Free Stream is ideal if you want to enjoy a smooth flying experience and pause to analyze how much wind it takes to fly a stunt kite. A good tip for finding a calm wind is to fly your kite in a wide and flat area away from nearby obstacles to avoid turbulence. (Source)
Strong winds are usually characterized by turbulence, resulting in sudden, erratic, and unpredictable changes in wind speed and direction. It’s almost impossible to fly a kite in this kind of wind conditions. However, you can still try to fly your kite in the so-called slipstream, which is the turbulent area downwind of an obstacle, but in most cases your kite will crash soon after. (Source)
3. The wind window is your best friend
An essential part of kite flying, especially stunt kites, is the wind window, which any kite pilot or kite enthusiast must be familiar with. The wind window is referred to as the space where the wind angle changes on your kite. (Source)
If you look ahead, you can imagine the wind window in the form of a rainbow. The wind window has a “power zone” which is the down-low area directly in front of you and the “edges” on either side.
In the power zone, your kite will gain speed and pull hard against you, but will require less hand movement to gain control. On the edges, the kite loses momentum as it slows down, making it more difficult to control. (Source)
4. Wind direction is important
An essential part of pre-flight checks should be determining the wind direction before take-off. It will help you choose a good anchor position that will allow you to launch your kite effectively and safely.
Since many flying sites experience calm winds in one direction and chaotic winds in another, direction is critical. Essentially, if you know the direction the wind is blowing from, you can also determine how much wind you need to fly a stunt kite. (Source)
Some helpful and simple tips for determining different wind direction signals are:
Observing the direction in which flags, banners, other kites, streamers, smoke and dust are blown
Feel the wind on your hands and face
Facing the wind until the sound of the wind is equal in both ears
Observing the movement of hair or leaves, or the direction that grass or sand blows when dropped
5. Flying in light and strong winds is also possible
Not all dragons are the same. While most kites work well in moderate winds, some are designed to withstand light winds and others are designed to go upwind.
To fly in light winds, keep the stunt kite lines under constant tension as you move across the field.
Using shorter and lighter lines also helps reduce the weight and drag of your kite, giving you better control. On the other hand, longer lines are useful for slowing down most strong pulling kites, especially in strong winds. (Source)
Now that we’ve tackled some of the essential details about wind information, specifically how much wind it takes to fly stunt kites, let’s move on to a quick step-by-step guide to flying a stunt kite.
How do you fly a stunt kite?
1. Run a preflight check
Before taking off, make it a priority to look for the right airport. A good spot for stunt kite flying is a wide, flat area away from nearby obstacles that can cause wind interfaces such as turbulence.
Check your kiting gear and make sure your kite is properly assembled and in good condition to fly. Also, make a habit of checking the weather forecast, especially the wind speeds for that day, before you leave home. (Source)
2. Evaluate the wind
Upon arrival at the flight location, check if there is enough wind. Most stunt kites only need wind speeds of around 6 to 30 kilometers per hour to fly well. Also keep in mind that altitude can change wind speed drastically, with higher altitudes often having stronger winds.
When you are at high altitude, expect sudden gusts of wind that could potentially snap the lines of your stunt kite. And if you are in a low altitude location, a drop in wind speed can quickly crash a kite. (Source)
3. Position yourself in the right place
When preparing for takeoff, choose a spot with open space and no trees or buildings behind you to avoid turbulence. To check that you are in an excellent position to launch your stunt kite, have your back to the wind and lower your stunt kite downwind, then let it fall backwards. If the kite “stands up” afterwards, you can launch. (Source)
4. Launch your stunt kite
Unfurl the lines of your kite and hold the handles securely. Then pull both lines evenly in front of you until the kite stands up and jerk down with your hand to release it while taking a few steps backwards. As soon as the wind catches the sail and the kite rises, position your hands in front of you in a relaxed manner. Remember that the kite will most likely fly sideways and not straight up. So pull the line opposite where your kite is rolling to correct this. (Source)
5. Fly your kite and keep it in the air
The key to keeping your kite steady is to use small and gentle hand movements and avoid jerking the lines or pulling too hard. Once you’ve successfully kept it in the air, try to steer it and let it follow you wherever you go.
To steer your kite properly, remember to only pull on one side at a time and to undo or offset any move you make, but only undo your actions after the kite has completed its spin or circle and pointing up. (Source)
6. Land your kite
Fly your kite low and wide to the side until it loses lift and falls gently to land. You can land it nose up and launch again with a little practice. Fly him to the side, then flip his nose up and step forward to land him as he nears the edge.
Summary of what we now know about wind and stunt kites
At this point, it’s not surprising if you’re experiencing information overload, but remember that everything we’ve discussed up to this point will help you have fun and exciting flying experiences with your stunt kite.
For many aviators, the wind is an enemy, but it can also be your friend. Gathering the right information on how the wind affects a kite’s flight can be to your advantage as it not only helps you avoid adverse wind conditions. In hang-gliding, on the other hand, you can now overcome them.
So the next time you fly your kite, make sure your location has no obstructions causing turbulence and that there is enough wind to lift your kite. And remember, if despite all the preparations things don’t go your way, laugh about it, grab your kite and try again.
What thread do you use for kites?
Kite flying thread
The two types of threads used for kite flying are saadi and manjha.
Which Thread Type Is Best For Kite Flying? – Kiting Planet
The kite’s body is usually made from a special grade of very thin paper, foil, or wrapping paper. It is important that the kite paper is thin as it is more responsive to manoeuvring. The kite’s supporting structure consists of thin bamboo sticks.
The types of materials used for the kite body are shown in Section 4c above. Materials.
The Indian kite “patang” requires either the “saada” or “manjha” – a special type of string, and a wooden or plastic spindle or thread holder – “fukri” or “chakri” to make it soar into the sky.
Support Structure: Two bamboo sticks placed at right angles to each other give simple but effective support to a simple Indian dragon body. Large kites, fancy kites, and special kites use more sticks depending on the kite design.
Basic skeleton made of two right angle bamboo sticks A fancy kite with several bamboo sticks forming the skeleton
Bamboo is the preferred support material due to its lightness and easy availability. Normally, preformed, straight bamboo sticks of the desired size are obtained from major kite manufacturers. This ensures consistency and makes kites easier to manufacture.
Trimming a bamboo stick during actual kite making Sticks are thick for large kites and thin for smaller kites. Large quantities of sticks in numbers of 10,000 to 15,000 are sourced from Assam or Jharkand where bamboo is plentiful. These sticks are then trimmed a bit while the kite is actually being made. Bundles of pre-made bamboo sticks in a kite maker shop A twisted wooden spool with handles protruding at either end, with a large central core. This central cylinder could be made of wood or of strips of bamboo spaced at regular intervals between the panels at either end.
Along with the kites, each kite shop displays a large number of kite scrolls, some of which are known to be hung in groups, some on the ceiling and some on the shop front as seen in the images below.
‹ › × ×
Different types of yarn, firkis/bobbins
Different types of yarn, firkis/bobbins ‹ › × ×
Small, plastic molded firkis/rolls
Small, plastic molded firkis/rolls ‹ › × ×
A bundle of plastic and wooden firkis/rolls
A bundle of plastic and wooden firkis/rolls ‹ › × ×
Some of these plastic reels completely mimic traditional reel design and may also have aluminum spindles, making the reels lighter.
There are several regions in India, particularly in Tamil Nadu, where the kite flyers do not use a reel. Kites are flown directly from balls of glass-coated line or large loops of thread about 3 feet in diameter.
Although reel manufacturers are scattered across India, Bareilly in Uttar Pradesh is a major center for reel manufacture and export.
hang gliding thread
The thread is the other important element for flying a kite. The quality of the thread ensures a kite’s ability to fly and maneuverability in the sky. The two types of threads used for kite flying are saadi and manjha.
Saadi: Simple thread used to fly the kites is known as “Saadi”. This is made of cotton. This could be a plain white color or come in colors like orange, blue, pink or green. The colored cotton saadi is usually preferred by boys.
Manjha: This is a material used to coat the first part of the kite flying line just below the kite or even the entire line, which helps in Indian kite fighting or “pench”.
With the manjha, the kite can be cut off from the sky effortlessly. It is a paste made from glutinous rice and ground glass powder.
In India, where kite flying is synonymous with kite fighting, the kite is always flown with a cutting line. The use of manjha distinguishes the Indian kite string from the kite string of other countries. It also differentiates the concept of kite flying from the rest of the world.
Manjha threads are more expensive than plain cotton threads.
Manjha Manufacturing Process:
The rice is cooked to a soft consistency and mashed into a fine paste. To this, glass powder and coloring pigments are added in certain proportions to obtain a smooth colored lump. The most popular colors for the manjha are bright and brilliant – turquoise blue, bright orange, dark green, royal blue, dark purple, dark green and lemon yellow. These colors look extremely attractive on the reel. The purpose of using bright colors in the manjha is to be able to identify one’s kite lineage when there are large numbers of kites flying in the sky.
Long cotton threads are tied between two or more wooden posts fixed in the ground 20 to 30 feet apart. The colored manjha paste is applied to this long length by a person walking back and forth the route along the thread, applying a fine and even layer to every 4 lines, separating each line with their fingers. This hand technique is a well-practiced art.
Manjha application on the thread can be light, medium or strong. The light coating is called “bareek manjha”. A lightly coated line increases a kite’s maneuverability and offers less wind resistance. Cutting more than other kites improves flying. This type of manjha is cheaper than jhaada manjha. A spool of this yarn can cost Rs. 170-200 per spool.
A thick manjha layer is called “jhaada” or “panda” manjha. A heavily coated line can quickly cut through an opponent’s line, but will drag the kite down, offering more wind resistance and less maneuverability. A spool of this yarn can cost Rs.250 – 300 per spool.
Sometimes manufacturers have secret formulas to produce a special quality of Manjha. They add items like milk cream or malai, isabgol, tej leaves, eggs, and several other unique items in proportions that are closely guarded secrets, along with the rice paste and powdered glass.
Dangers of Using Manjha Thread:
Manjha thread must be handled with care when kite flying. People sometimes wrap their fingers in bandaid or duct tape to protect them from the glass powder.
Manjha threads can be dangerous to people standing on rooftops or streets, cyclists and two-wheelers. During a kite fight, when the kite being cut plummets downwards, the line, if it falls to the ground, can cut the body parts of people who stand in its way. There have been many incidents of the Manjha thread cutting the throats of two-wheelers. In fact, every year during the festival of Makara Sankranthi, people are warned to pay attention to the kite’s tethers.
The manjha is wound onto fikri by a large spool attached to an electric motor. Large quantities of yarn – around 900 meters are available in rolls, these are wound onto the Firki.
The pictures below show the process of wrapping the Firki. ‹ › × ×
nylon thread:
Today, some kite flyers use nylon cords to fly the kites. This is lighter than the cotton thread and is available in a large number of colors as can be seen below.
‹ › × ×
Some of these plastic reels completely mimic traditional reel design and may also have aluminum spindles, making the reels lighter. There are several regions in India, particularly in Tamil Nadu, where the kite flyers do not use a reel. Kites are flown directly from balls of glass-coated line or large loops of thread about 3 feet in diameter. Although reel manufacturers are scattered throughout India, Bareilly in Uttar Pradesh is a major center for reel manufacturing and exportation and is the other key element to flying a kite. The quality of the thread ensures a kite’s ability to fly and maneuverability in the sky. The two types of threads used for kite flying are saadi and manjha. Simple thread used to fly the kites is known as “Saadi”. This is made of cotton. This could be a plain white color or come in colors like orange, blue, pink or green. The colored cotton saadi is usually preferred by boys. This is a material used to coat the first part of the kite flying line, just below the kite or even the entire line, which aids in Indian kite fighting or “pench” The manjha allows the kite to be cut effortlessly from the sky. It is a paste made from glutinous rice and ground glass powder. In India, where kite flying is synonymous with kite fighting, the kite is always flown with a cutting line. The use of manjha distinguishes the Indian kite string from the kite string of other countries. It also differentiates the idea of kite flying from the rest of the world. Manjha threads are more expensive than plain cotton threads. The rice is cooked to a soft consistency and mashed into a fine paste. To this, glass powder and coloring pigments are added in certain proportions to obtain a smooth colored lump. The most popular colors for the manjha are bright and brilliant – turquoise blue, bright orange, dark green, royal blue, dark purple, dark green and lemon yellow. These colors look extremely attractive on the reel. The purpose of using bright colors in the manjha is to be able to identify one’s kite string when there are large numbers of kites flying in the sky. Long cotton threads are tied between two or more wooden stakes fixed in the ground. 20 to 30 feet apart. The colored manjha paste is applied to this long length by a person walking back and forth the route along the thread, applying a fine and even layer to every 4 lines, separating each line with their fingers. This hand technique is a well-practiced art. The manjha application on the thread can be light, medium or heavy. The light coating is called “bareek manjha”. A lightly coated line increases a kite’s maneuverability and offers less wind resistance. Cutting more than other kites improves flying. This type of manjha is cheaper than jhaada manjha. A spool of this yarn can cost from 170 to 200 rupees per spool. A thick manjha layer is called “jhaada” or “panda” manjha. A heavily coated line can quickly cut through an opponent’s line, but will drag the kite down, offering more wind resistance and less maneuverability. A spool of this thread can cost Rs. 250-300 per spool. Sometimes manufacturers have secret formulas to produce a special quality of Manjha. They add items such as milk cream or malai, isabgol, tej leaves, eggs, and several other unique items in proportions that are kept top secret, along with the rice paste and powdered glass. Manjha thread must be handled with care when flying kites. People sometimes wrap their fingers in bandaid or tape to protect their fingers from the glass dust. Manjha threads can be dangerous for people standing on rooftops or streets, cyclists and two-wheelers. During a kite fight, when the kite being cut plummets downwards, the line, if it falls to the ground, can cut the body parts of people who stand in its way. There have been many incidents of the Manjha thread cutting the throats of two-wheelers. In fact, every year during the festival of Makara Sankranthi, people are warned to pay attention to the kite’s tethers. The manjha is wound onto fikri by a large spool attached to an electric motor. Large quantities of yarn – around 900 meters are available in spools to be wound onto the Firki. The pictures below show the process of wrapping the Firki. Today, some kite flyers use nylon cords to fly the kites. This is lighter than the cotton thread and is available in a large number of colors as can be seen below. A piece of nylon thread bought by some boys to fly a kite
Rolls come in different sizes. A small roll is about 6 inches long and 2 ½ inches in diameter. The standard size is about 14 inches long and 4 ½ inches in diameter. There could be reels in between these two sizes as there really is no standard size reel. The reels are usually made of softwoods such as jackwood, punkhi, and hale. Hardwood reels such as walnut, teak, and rosewood are more expensive and generally not available at regular kite shops. The handles of the reels are turned on wood lathes and first coated with bright watercolor pigments followed by a thin coat of clear coat varnish or lacquer which not only protects the vibrant undercoat but also gives a smooth finish and also makes the reel more durable and insect resistant power. Different types of roles are used in different regions of India. Some regions may have streaks, metal inserts, decorative elements, finer workmanship and finish along the top and bottom plates. The scrolls above have metal inserts in the top and bottom plates in an attractive pattern as a decorative element, but some can be plain, undecorated, with just a coat of lacquer. With all these types of roles, the functional excellence of the role remains the sole purpose. In addition to traditional wooden rollers, modernity has introduced molded plastic rollers that can be easily mass-produced. These can’t keep up with wooden rollers in terms of look and feel, rarely have decorative elements, but serve as functional companions and are widely accepted by hang-gliders.
What is kite string called?
In kiting, a line is the string made of cotton, nylon, silk or wire, which connects the kite to the person operating it or an anchor. Kites have a set of wings, a set of anchors, and a set of lines coupling the wings with the anchors.
Which Thread Type Is Best For Kite Flying? – Kiting Planet
In kiting, a line is the cotton, nylon, silk, or wire string that connects the kite to the person operating it or an anchor. Kites have a set of wings, a set of anchors, and a set of lines connecting the wings to the anchors. Kite lines fulfill different roles: bridle, control, tug or special tasks.
Successful kiting in any particular kite application depends in large part on the specifications and handling of the kite line. The integrity of kite lines is compromised by wear and tear, unwinding, exposure to chemicals, loss of strength from knots, exposure to the sun’s ultraviolet rays, repeated cycles of use, and exposure during use. There are historically classic specifications of kite lines. Kite lines for small toy kites are very different from kite lines used for kite tugs that tow commercial cargo ships across the ocean. Sport kites that use kite line sets of two or three or four lines at a time need very little stretch in the lines. Single-line recreational kite lines can get along well with stretchy kite lines. The main leashes of dragon battle kites have sharp glass particles connected to the leash. Abuse or abuse of kite lines can cause personal injury and property damage. Kite lines vary in pricing and availability. Repairing a specific line has its own art. Line spooling, handling and storage methods differ depending on the kite application. Kite cords terminate at one end at the kite’s wing/bridle and at the other end at a kite berth. mooring is to an object anchor which provides the pull or tension against the resultant of the kite’s lift and drag forces; the anchor is always powered by something, even when that something is the moving surface of the earth relative to the air for air kites; A walking human kite leader is the source of human energy.
Kite line parameters [ edit ]
Depending on the kite application and kite system requirements, one or more of the following parameters are considered when selecting a kite line: availability, base material, color, density, mass per length, size, manufacturer reports, serial number or product number, diameter, cross-sectional shape, tensile strength new, aged tensile strength, resistance to chemical damage, defects, safety factor, resistance to damage from solar radiation (UV stabilization), electrical conductivity, optical conductivity, thermal conductivity, moisture absorption from water (via humidity, rain, contact with liquid water), buoyancy in water, abrasion resistance , Manufacturer’s Line Connection Types, Feel, Knot Degradation, Connection Methods, Resiliency, Structure, Signal Transmission Capacity, Radar Visibility, Performance Over Time, Maintenance Procedures, Effects On Performance Through Hours Of Use, Air Resistance tand, negative buoyancy, use of auxiliary lines, performance when reeling in tension, performance when line tensioned self-touch, breaking behavior, memory, veil, sheathing, inspectability, surface finish, heat and cold performance, taper (if desired), flexibility, reeling behavior, breaking strength, critical diameter, reliability, portfolio of test results, visibility, rotation, plasticity, security, price. Toy kites sold with a manufacturer’s select line make the decision easy; The decision is more difficult for custom kite applications. The design and handling of the piano wire kite line for the high altitude meteorological observations (1749–1933) was a keen engineering process. [1][2][3][4][5][6][7][8]
Kite strings for children’s toy kites [ edit ]
To prevent burns and cuts, kite strings for children’s toy kites are often made of soft, fluffy cotton yarn.
Kite lines for sport control kites [ edit ]
See main article on kite control systems
Some kites are controlled by multiple lines. Lines with low stretch have a stable length and give more responsive control. Kite lines can be colored by either the manufacturer or the end user for display purposes and to simplify control line management.[9] The melting point is taken into account when controlling a dragon for dragon combat. A less expensive cotton line can melt a crossed expensive synthetic line.
Kite lines for altitude trials[ edit ]
Historically, high-altitude kite flights were performed by atmospheric scientists and meteorologists in the late 19th to early 20th centuries. Routine flights around the world have been made using steel wire with single kites and kite trains. The highest recorded flight was performed by a German meteorological station in Lindenberg in 1919. The top kite is reported to have reached 31,955 feet above the starting point. The line consisted of over 20 km of high-strength steel piano wire with a breaking strength of between 134 and 225 kg. In 2014, the single-line single-kite height record was set with a 300-pound Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene (UHMWPE, Dyneema) kite line. Robert Moore and his team used 12,400 meters of line to fly a 12 square meter kite at 16,009 feet above launch point.[12] Dyneema, a braided line made of ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE), and the similarly structured line Spectra are stronger and lighter than Kevlar for a given diameter. One of the most important characteristics of high altitude kite flying line is its small diameter and high strength-to-weight ratio. The biggest obstacle to high altitude kite flying is aerodynamic drag.[13] Long-term use of Dyneema has shown that it is highly resistant to UV degradation compared to Kevlar.[14] Richard Crawford, a high flyer from the USA, made an attempt to set the world record for single kite height using a 220 pound test Technora line manufactured by Twinline. He reported flying a delta kite at approximately 6,500 feet in September 2008.
Kite lines for special applications[ edit ]
When a kite application does not serve a common purpose, special kite lines are used. Setting specific records under controlled conditions allows kite operators or competitors to select kite lines with high specificity and without undue safety factors.
The short kite line called the Hang Loop for the free-flying kite kites has received special technical attention; The other main kite lines from the suspension loop to the pilot’s harness are also highly specialized in design.[17]
When maximizing performance for large kites; E.D. Archibald was the first to use piano wire for kiting.[18]
For flatland kiting kites with 3000 feet of tow line holding the manned kite, special care is taken to specification. It is considered to protect the kite line from soil abrasion.[19]
Want to fly an indoor kite with no wind? The indoor non-wind kite operator doesn’t have to worry about line breaks causing damage to downwind property. Line selection can be very specialized here.
If the kite line is to be invisible, a clear, translucent fine thread is chosen.
Visualizing kite lines for night flying occurs in short line and long line applications. Line lights are a sometimes used solution. Lines carrying light is another. Lights on the ground shining on stunt kites and their lines appear. Flying kites in the night
Spider silk and her kite line for her “ballooning” (mechanical kiting) [ edit ]
Biologists began using the term “ballooning” for the mechanical kiting of spiders. Another spider silk for the bridge thread is often puttied. And another thread of the spider is used as a towline, which spiders often swing on in the wind and get distracted before landing. Humans have used spider silk to make kites.[22]
Kite line safety[ edit ]
Adjust the kite leash to the kite application; handle the line as required to avoid hazards, accidents, personal injury and damage to property. The operator of a kite facility is fully liable for damage caused by the operation of his kite facility; this includes the kite line. pre-flight plan and pre-flight of the kite line; avoid surprises. Piano wire is suitable for certain applications but totally unsuitable for recreational or sport kite flying. Monofilament fishing lines are not used for most hobby, recreational or sport power kiting due to their stretch, breaking behavior and thinness. avoid it unless it’s a very specific application. Metal wire can conduct static and current electricity; Avoid metal wires unless a professional scientific or industrial engineer approves the line for a specific purpose. Gloves, proper reel selection, goggles, guards, voltage suppressors, and other safety devices will help prevent accidents. The ability to depower a kite’s lift and drag is part of a solid kite system. Tensioned cord can act as a razor. Moving lines can cut through flesh too easily. Fatalities all too often occur through misuse of kite lines. Keep the kite lines in good condition. Realize that knots weaken the kite line. Keep the kite lines dry and clean. Log any wear and use of the leash; Replace lines as needed. Choose a safety factor when designing a line for an application. Avoid flying in the rain or during stormy weather changes.[23][24][25][26][27]
See also[edit]
What is the thread of kite called?
Fighter kites in Afghanistan, Bangladesh, India, Nepal and Pakistan fly on abrasive string called manja (or manjha).
Which Thread Type Is Best For Kite Flying? – Kiting Planet
Kites are usually flown at specific times of the year or festivals. All fliers use colored manja cords coated in powdered glass and attempt to shoot down opposing dragons – which then drift away. Participants or spectators often follow and try to catch such kites; an exercise known as kite running.
names [edit]
Drag lines for battle kites are known by many local names:
manjha – India, Nepal, Bangladesh and Pakistan.
– India, Nepal, Bangladesh and Pakistan. tar—Afghanistan
– Afghanistan Hilo de Compencia – Chile
– Chile hilo curado – Chile
– Chile dore – India and Pakistan
– India and Pakistan manjho – Rajasthan, India
– Rajasthan, India gelasan – Indonesia
– Indonesian Cerol – Brazil
Composition [ edit ]
Traditional manja is based on fine pure cotton threads coated with a mixture of rice glue, tree sap, and similar natural ingredients—and an abrasive: finely powdered glass,[1] alumina, or zirconia-alumina. In some places, individuals make their own manja according to personal ‘secret recipes’ – but most are made on a large scale by specialized artisans.
The so-called “chemical manja” or “Chinese manja” is a relatively recent introduction. It is based on non-biodegradable synthetic fibers.[2] This makes it more difficult to break, which may be considered unsportsmanlike [citation needed], and makes the line more dangerous to bystanders and birds.
In Brazil, alongside Cerol, there is a more dangerous version of kite string called “linha chilena” (Chilean string), which contains essentially the same ingredients that Cerol is made from, but with quartz powder and aluminum powder, which makes the string four times more dangerous than normal cerol.[3][4]
Security [edit]
Fighters often launch the kites from rooftops, which endangers their safety.[5]
kite runner[edit]
Kite runners who stare at the kite as they follow it often lose focus of their surroundings and can run down streets or railroad tracks without paying attention to oncoming traffic or trains.[6][7] They can also take risks by scaling trees and buildings to retrieve dragons, which land where they can fall down as a result.
Bystanders are cut[edit]
Others are also at risk, with many reports of motorcyclists and others having their throats cut by Manja – particularly when riding through hanging cords.[8][9][10][11][12][13] Such incidents have led to calls for bans on the sale of glass coated kite lines in many regions. The Chamber of Deputies of Chile passed legislation in 2013 that legally prohibits the use of “hilo curado”, with the only exceptions for professional kite flyers in secured venues for competition, which use lines coated with silicone powder. In 2010, a report said that the ban on Chinese manja in India had not helped stem its sale.[15]
Threat to birds[edit]
Manja is also dangerous to birds, as kites that land in trees do not allow the lines to break easily, often resulting in injuries that require their rescue.[16] Two volunteer bird medicine doctors in New Delhi care for about 1,000 Black Kites each year, of which 90% are injured by Manja and half die.[17]
During the Uttarayan Festival, veterinarians had to respond to situations where birds had been injured.[18]
Double The Life Of Your Revolution Line Set!
See some more details on the topic spectra kite line sets here:
Spectra Kite Line – Windstar Kites
Exceptionally low stretch: tightly woven bra structure to minimize stretch. Small …
Source: windstarkites.com
Date Published: 10/3/2022
View: 6457
Kite Line – Great Canadian Kite Company
We are Canada’s first choice for QUALITY kites & kite accessories. A full-service Canadian Online kite shop proving you with quality kites, kites accessories, …
Source: www.canadiankitecompany.com
Date Published: 9/20/2022
View: 2531
stunt kite line sets, spectra, dynaama, bulk spectra
Excel Spectra is a finely braded line made of Spectra 1000 fibers for high performance sport kites. We use 100% Spectra with no polyester fillers, trackers, …
Source: www.funwithwind.com
Date Published: 6/22/2022
View: 6295
Vintage Spectra Kite Line Premium Dual Line Set 200lb x 125 …
Prism Stowaway Diamond Kite ~ RADIANCE ~ Single-Line Diamond Kite … Vintage Spectra Kite Line Premium Dual Line Set 200lb x 125′ Berry Blue Line NIP.
Source: www.ebay.com
Date Published: 7/29/2021
View: 565
Spectra Dual Line Sets at WindPower Sports Kite Store
High quality Spectra line is the strongest and thinnest type of kite line for flying dual line stunt and parafoil kites.
Source: www.windpowersports.com
Date Published: 6/27/2021
View: 2997
Highline Kites of Berkeley
We promise never to spam you and just use your email address to identify you as a valid customer.
Spectra Kite Line
This page is dedicated
Sport and stunt kite flying line.
Looking for line for your single line kite?
CLICK HERE TO…………………
Check out our selection of dacron and nylon cords!
Below are three classes of the Spectra line
from good, better to best!
Sport Grade Bulk Line Spools
NO LONGER OFFERED!
(Combination of 75% Spectra & 25% Dacron) Spectra 1000 line spools
Note: Also known as Competition Grade
(New Tech… only special order)
(Until a few years ago this was the very best grade line there is)
Spectra 1000
US Line “20% Off SALE” PREMIUM Spectra
(at the moment this line
is the best currently available)
No matter which kite you fly,
if you want the best performance
For all skill levels this is the right line! Spectra 2000
( Laser Pro & Blue Line )
Good for beginners and recreational flyers who just fly for fun and don’t care that much about the performance of the kite. Better Line: Used by most intermediate and some advanced users as a cost effective alternative to the more expensive competition lines. Best Line: Used by the most advanced and Masters class flyers for competition flying. Also used by the extreme sport kite enthusiast. Spectra 1000
US Line “20% off SALE” Dual Line “LaserPro Gold” “SPECIAL” QUAD LINE SETS
Power kite linesets & standard quad sets
LP Gold and es/55 Blue Line vers WSK PREMIUM SPECTRA
Spectra Line diameter and weight (approximate)
History and info about Spectra Line
KNOTLESS LINE SPLICE…
Would you like to know how to splice your lines, aka join one line to another, or repair damaged line(s) or terminate your line(s) without using a tube?
SLEEVING LINES… Learn how to SLEEVING your own lines!
SPORT GRADE LINE (Spectra/Dacron Blend) DISCONTINUED
SPECTRUM 1000
US Line (100% Spectra 1000) – Bulk Spools “SPECIAL SALE”
First class Spectra 1000, same quality as other Spectra 1000 lines (including BBS Spectra 1000).
Take advantage of these low prices, only while stocks last**. Get those bulk coils while they’re here!
Please note: ACTUAL SHIPPING COSTS APPLY FOR BULK SPOOLS!
US Line Spectra Special
50 lbs. BULK SPOOLS 50lb. / 300′ spool… $24.00 $19.00 Special** (4 spools in stock) 50 lb./1000′ spool… $76.00 $60.00 Special ** (5 spools in stock) US Line Spectra Special
100lbs BULK SPOOLS 100lb. / 300′ spool… $28.00 $22.00 Special** (1 spool in stock) 100 lb. / 375′ spool… $34.00 $27.00 Special** (1 spool in stock) 100 lb . / 450′ spool… $41.00 $32.40 Special Offer** (2 spools in stock) 100 lb. / 500′ spool… $44.00 $35.00 Special Offer** (1 spool in stock) 100 lb. / 525′ spool.. $46.00 $36.75 Special** (1 spool in stock) 100 lb. / 1300′ spool… $110.00 $88.40 Special** (1 spool in stock) 100 lb. / 3000′ spool… $233.00 $186.00 Special** (2 spools in stock ) If you want the very best line available at a very good price please check out our
PREMIUM SPECTRA below!
**NO OTHER DISCOUNTS APPLY
NewTech (NT) 100% Spectra 1000 – bulk spools
NOTE: All New Tech Line is a special order only, please allow at least one to two weeks for delivery!
If you want the very best line at a very good price, please check out our PREMIUM SPECTRA below!
Please note: ACTUAL SHIPPING COSTS APPLY FOR BULK SPOOLS!
Spectra 1000 1000 feet.
bulk coil
3000 feet.
Large spool 50 lb. (NT) on request. $134.00 available for call. 80 lbs. (NT) $75.00 Call for availability. $175.00 available for call. 150 lbs. (NT) $80.00 Call for availability. $209.00 available for call. 200 lbs. (NT) $99.00 Call for availability. $259.00 available for call. 300 lbs. (NT) $120.00 Call for availability. $324.00 available for call. 500 lbs. (NT) $160.00 Call for availability. $417.00 available for call.
**NO DISCOUNTS ON CUSTOM LENGTH AND LEAD SETS
*Figure 8 winders included with custom custom line sets
The Figure 8 Winder is available for $4.00 each with purchase of Bulk Line.
Winders are sold separately without bulk purchase and cost $5.00 each.
WSK PREMIUM SPECTRA – HOLLOW SPLICEABLE LINE – When you want the very best!
Note: All WSK Premium Spectra listed below are HOLLOW SPLICEABLE (except the 40lb test)
WSK PREMIUM SPECTRA line is a replacement for Laser Pro Gold and es/55 Blue Line.
All of the lines listed below are of the absolute highest quality and in my opinion I would not compare this line to Laser Pro or es/55 anytime. Only available through Windstar Kites!
Note: Custom dual line sets must be charged at line set length x 2 plus $11.00.
(Example: 45#75; feet of line used is 150 x .09 = 13.50 + 11 = $24.50…line set cost)
Note: Custom quad sets must be charged at line set length x 4 plus $22.00.
(Example: 200#/ 75com-pq; feet of line used is 300 x .12 = 36 + 22 = $58.00… cost of line assembly)
Please note: ACTUAL SHIPPING COSTS APPLY FOR BULK SPOOLS!
At least 300 feet of each line size for bulk spools (which are custom spooled to customer specified length; other than listed size spools).
VAC
BONUS
Spectra 450 feet.
bulk coil
900 feet.
bulk coil
1800 feet.
Large coil 3600 ft.
Bulk coil 7500 ft.
Custom Length Bulk Spool**
(300′ min bulk)
Figure 8 wrappers available* Custom length**
Dual line sets
with Figure 8 Winder* Custom Length**
Quad line sets
with figure 8 winder* 40 lb. $40.00
450 feet.
Bulk Coil $69.00
900 feet.
Bulk Coil $128.00
1800 feet.
Bulk Coil $241.00
3600 feet.
Bulk spool $429.00
7500 feet.
Big Spool .09/ft. under 900′
0.08/ft. over 900′ 0.09 per ft.
+$11.00 .09 per ft.
+ $22.00 80 pounds. $60.00
450 feet.
Bulk Coil $109.00
900 feet.
Bulk Coil $231.00
1800 feet.
Bulk Coil $439.00
3600 feet.
Bulk Coil $799.00
7500 feet.
Large Spool .13/ft. under 900′
0.12/ft. over 900′ 0.13 per ft.
+$11.00 .13 per ft.
+ $22.00 130 pounds. $45.00
450 feet.
Bulk Coil $81.00
900 feet.
Bulk Coil $132.00
1800 feet.
Bulk Coil $252.00
3600 feet.
Bulk Coil $439.00
7500 feet.
Large Spool .10/ft. under 900′
0.09/ft. over 900′ 0.10 per ft.
+$11.00 .10 per ft.
+ $22.00 200 pounds. $56.00
450 feet.
Bulk Coil $106.00
900 feet.
Bulk Coil $199.00
1800 feet.
Bulk Coil $384.00
3600 feet.
Bulk Coil $669.00
7500 feet.
Large Spool .13/ft. under 900′
0.12/ft. over 900′ 0.13 per ft.
+$11.00 .13 per ft.
+ $22.00 300 pounds. $72.00
450 feet.
bulk coil
$130.00
900 feet.
Bulk Coil $249.00
1800 feet.
Bulk Coil $469.00
3600 feet.
Bulk Spool n/a 0.16/ft. under 900′
0.15/ft. over 900′ 0.16 per ft.
+ $22.00 .16 per foot.
+ $22.00 500 pounds.
support financially
Availability $94.00
450 feet.
Bulk Coil $169.00
900 feet.
Bulk Coil $309.00
1800 feet.
Large Spool n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a 800 lb.
support financially
Availability $135.00
450 feet.
Bulk Coil $260.00
900 feet.
Bulk Coil $439.00
1800 feet.
Mass coil n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a WSK
BONUS
Spectra 1000 lb.
support financially
Availability $199.00
450 feet.
Bulk Coil $396.00
900 feet.
Bulk spool $440.00
1000 feet.
Bulk coil n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a
WSK PREMIUM SPECTRA Desired properties:
Exceptionally Low Stretch: Tightly woven braid structure to minimize stretch.
Smaller Diameter, Reduced Weight: Braided with 100% Spectra® fibers, made from finer denier fibers than other braided Spectra lines. The result is a small diameter kite line with a weight reduction of up to 30% compared to other Spectra lines. The thin profile is aerodynamically more efficient and the lighter weight translates into higher speed and less drag.
Reduced Friction on Coiled Lines, Better Wear: Increased abrasion resistance and reduced friction between coiled lines.
High quality kite lines at affordable prices!
Premier Winder
Figure 8 blank winders are also available for $4.00 per winder if you also purchase bulk lines.
(Limited to 4 spools at $4.00 each per 1000 feet of line purchased)*
*Winder styles and colors may vary.
Coilers sold separately are $5.00 each.
SPECTRUM 2000
LaserPro Gold “Dual Line SPECIAL”
LaserPro Gold Dual Line Set “Special” (new lower price) 50 lb./ 50 ft. $28.49 $23.00 Special* 90 lb./ 100 ft. $38.99 $34.00 Special* 150 lb. / 85 ft. $39.49 $35.00 Special*
*NO OTHER DISCOUNTS APPLY, quantities limited!
————————————————-
BBS es/55 – competition quality
This line is being discontinued!
Once sold out, there are no more!
es/55 Competition Grade – Loose Spools (Spectra 2000):
NOTE: Please note that due to difficulties in obtaining bulk spools from es/55, Windstar Kites no longer offers BULK SPOOLS from es/55 Blue Line. If you want the very best Spectra line, please see our PREMIUM SPECTRA above!
es/55 Dual Line Sets – Competition Grade (Spectra 2000)
Note: Custom dual line sets must be charged at line set length x 2 plus $11.00.
(Example: 140#/ 150; feet of line used is 300 x 0.15 = 45 + 11 = $56.00…line set cost)
es/55 dual line sets
with figure 8 winder 75 ft. 100 ft. Custom length
Dual line sets**
with figure 8 winder 140 lb. $34.00 $37.00 0.15/ft. +$11.00
**NO DISCOUNTS ON CUSTOM LINE SETS
*Figure 8 winders included with custom custom line sets
A figure 8 winder (empty) is available with purchase of Bulk Line for $4.00 each.
Winders are sold separately without bulk purchase and cost $5.00 each.
Quad KITE LINE SETS:
Note: Custom quad sets must be charged at line set length x 4 plus $22.00.
(Example: 300#/200# 75com-pq; feet of line used is 300 x .12 = 36 + 22 = $58.00 line set cost)
POWER WIRE SETS: Custom Length**
Quad line sets
with Figure 8 Winder* PREMIUM, Power Quad 300#/200# 75Pre-Pq $64.00 0.14 per foot + $22.00 PREMIUM, Power Quad 300#/200# 50Pre-Pq $50.00 0 .14 per foot + $22.00 QUAD LINE SETS: Premium Quad Set 130# 75pre-quad $52.00 .10 per ft. + $22.00 Premium Quad Set 80# 75pre-quad $61.00 0.13 per ft. + $22.00 Quad Set 150# 75com – Quad $49.00 0.09 per ft. + $22.00 Competition Quality Quad Set 80# 75com-quad $43.00 0.07 per ft. + $22.00
Looking for line for your single line kite?
CLICK HERE TO…………………
Check out our selection of dacron and nylon cords!
VERY IMPORTANT… Please fly safely!
Please visit our Kite Safety page and download and print our FREE “Kite Safety Field Card”. Within the Kite Safety Field Card you will also find a section on Line Safety.
Most people (flyers and spectators alike) don’t realize that different types of flight lines are NOT compatible with each other. Please take extra care when flying sport kites around single line kites. Make sure that your flying line does not come into contact with single-line kite lines (Dacron or even cotton lines from inexpensive children’s kites). See the Kite Safety Field Card for more information.
Also available in Adobe Acrobat KiteSafetyFieldCard.PDF
Question… What happens to a kite when it touches power lines… Click here to see the answer!
Laser Pro and es/55 the new WSK PREMIUM SPECTRA Laser Pro Gold is no longer produced for the kite industry. Anyone showing they have Laser Pro Gold in stock either doesn’t have the product in stock or has limited stock left. I still have a few dozen pre-made line sets in stock, in various test gauges and lengths. Once this stock is sold out, there will be no more. So I had to find a replacement for Laser Pro Gold and also for Blue Line (es/55) as Blue Line has become extremely expensive and it is difficult to get stock when I need stock. The WSK Premium Line is THE best line I have ever flown (in my opinion). In my opinion it is as good or better than Laser Pro Gold and es/55 Blue Line. As for bulk spools, the WSK Premium Spectra is available on a wide range of factory spools, plus I custom spool for customers (minimum 300 feet of line per test). In the Spectra 1000 series I had always sold a lot of line. But when LP Gold was discontinued and it/55 was hard to come by, I had to find a good replacement. This is where the WSK Premium Spectra comes into play. With the WSK Premium line, it has an incredibly small diameter for any given test and all sizes from the 80# test to the 1000# test can be spliced knot-free, and you can splice evenly from size to size starting with the 130 # to 200#, 200# test to 300#, 300# to 500#, 500# to 800# AND even from 800# to 1000# test line ! As for the SPECTRA that is used to make the WSK Premium Spectra, it is a combination of Spectra 1000 and Spectra 2000. The finer (smaller test lines) are made with Spectra 2000 and the larger (higher test lines) are made with Spectra 1000. However, the Spectra type doesn’t make this line special, it’s the denier of the fiber and how the lines are actually braided. This allows the line to be a smaller diameter for each test while maintaining a very tight braid, and still being able to feed the lines into itself (to provide an extremely secure knot free splice). At the moment I have very good prices on the Laser Pro Gold line sets but as I said once I sell these out there won’t be any more. If you are looking for a bulk coil replacement for the 90# LP Gold then I might recommend the 80# WSK Premium Spectra, or you can opt for the 130# WSK Premium Spectra. Just to give you an idea…I mainly fly quad sport kites…Revolutions and Skydancers, and I never fly less than 130# WSK Premium Spectra in normal winds (3 – 20+ MPH). Only on extremely light wind days do I fly with lighter and shorter sets of lines.
History and information about Spectra® fibers
In the mid-1980’s, AlliedSignal Inc. (now Honeywell) introduced Spectra® fiber. An entirely new type of synthetic yarn, it was one of the first commercially available high modulus extended chain polyethylene fibers. Because the Spectra® fiber is a polyethylene with a carbon-to-carbon molecular structure like that of a diamond, it creates a continuous filament yarn with incredible performance and endurance. Pound for pound ten times stronger than steel, yet light enough to float, Spectra® fiber is one of the strongest and lightest man-made fibers on the planet. Spectra® fiber applications include cut protection, rope and cordage, vehicle and personal protection, and fishing line, as well as various specialty applications.
Spectra® fibers are used in specialty sewing threads, tethers used by NASA in space, and high-tech canvas composites for America’s Cup sailboats. It is a rip-stop reinforcement for luggage fabrics, as well as a yarn used in parachute cord, kite lines, dental floss, mammoth commercial fishing nets, and dozens of other applications where the fiber’s great strength, light weight, and durability are critical.
Spectra® fiber is one of the strongest and lightest fibers in the world. It’s a bright white polyethylene, pound for pound, 10 times stronger than steel, more durable than polyester and has a specific strength 40 percent higher than aramid fibers.
Spectra® fiber is made from ultra high molecular weight polyethylene used in a patented gel spinning process. Polyethylene is a remarkably durable plastic, and scientists at Spectra Technologies have harnessed the tremendous natural strength of this everyday plastic’s molecular backbone to create one of the world’s strongest and lightest fibers. The gel spinning process and subsequent drawing steps allow Spectra® fibers to have a much higher melting temperature than standard polyethylene.
With excellent toughness and exceptional viscoelastic properties, Spectra® fiber can withstand high strain rates. It is light enough to swim and also has high resistance to chemicals, water and ultraviolet light. It has excellent vibration dampening, flex fatigue and internal fiber friction properties, and the low dielectric constant of Spectra® fiber makes it virtually transparent to radar.
Spectra® fiber is used in a wide range of high performance applications including ballistic armor for law enforcement and military, helmets and armored vehicles, as well as canvas, fishing line, sea rope, lifting slings and cut resistant gloves and clothing. Honeywell is also converting Spectra® fibers into the Spectra Shield® family of specialty composites for armor and other applications.
[Spectra Fiber 900]Spectra® Fiber 900 was the first commercially available long chain, high tenacity polyethylene fiber and the first in a line of Spectra® fibers.
[Spectra Fiber 1000] High tenacity, lightweight polyethylene fiberSpectra® fiber 1000, the second in a series of Spectra® fibers, was developed to meet customer demands for higher performance. It is available in a variety of deniers for use in a variety of applications. This chain-extended polyethylene fiber has one of the highest strength-to-weight ratios of any man-made fiber. Spectra® fiber 1000 has 15 to 20 percent higher toughness than Spectra® fiber 900. Pound for pound, Spectra® fiber is 10 times stronger than steel, more durable than polyester, and has a specific strength 40 percent greater than aramid fiber. Specific power depends on denier and filament count.
[Spectra Fiber 2000] The ultimate high-strength, lightweight performerThe latest generation of Spectra® fibers was developed to provide superfine, superstrong and ultralight fibers for defence, aerospace and high performance sporting goods applications. Spectra® Fiber 2000, Honeywell’s premier ballistic fiber, is stronger and lighter than most commercial high modulus fibers and has one of the highest strength-to-weight ratios of any man-made fiber. The high tenacity of Spectra® fiber makes it 10 times stronger pound for pound than steel, more durable than polyester and gives it a specific strength 40 percent higher than aramid fibers. Specific performance depends on denier and filament counts.
Product properties of the Spectra® fiber:
Light enough to levitate (0.097 specific gravity)
High resistance to chemicals, water and UV light
Excellent vibration dampening
Very resistant to flex fatigue
Low coefficient of friction
Good abrasion resistance
A low dielectric constant makes it practically transparent to radar.
SPECTRA Braided Line Approximate Diameters and Weights:
WSK PREMIUM SPECTRA Approximate diameters and weights:
TEST (lbs) Diameter Weight per 1000′ 40# .010″ 1.2 oz. / 1000′ 80# .015″ 2.3 oz. / 1000′ 130# .020″ 2.86oz. / 1000′ 200# .023″ 4.17oz. / 1000′ 300# .035″ 8.75oz. / 1000′ 500# .051″ 12.75oz. / 1000′ 1000# .112″ 38.4oz / 1000′
Because the leash is a flat braid, it’s difficult to actually measure the diameter…the numbers on the leash are approximate.
The weight above was calculated by weighing the line on the spools and subtracting the weight of the empty spools. Braided line Spectra 1000 Approximate diameters:
The diameters are as follows…
50 pound test .015″
100 pound test .017″
150 lb test .022″
200 lb test .025″
300 pound test .035″
Because the leash is a flat braid, it’s difficult to actually measure the diameter…the numbers on the leash are approximate.
Shipping and Handling Fees
Which Thread Type Is Best For Kite Flying? – Kiting Planet
Kite flying is a popular hobby for many people, but finding the right kite line can be difficult. Line weight and material are important factors when choosing the best kite line. Different materials have different strengths and weaknesses that should be considered when deciding on a line type.
The best type of line for kite flying is braided polyester line. It is available in a variety of weights and powers, offering options for kites of different weights and sizes and flight conditions. The braided version is also less prone to tangles and easier to untangle with the braided polyester line.
There are three main types of lines commonly used to fly kites: cotton, nylon, and polyester. The type of line you use will depend on the quality and purpose of the kite you fly and the conditions you regularly fly your kite in. These lines vary in characteristics and cost so you need to prioritize your kiting fly to make the best line choice for your kite.
Types of thread for kite flying
The thread used for kite flying has different names. Some call it thread, some call it line, and some still call it string. Whatever terminology you choose, it’s the line that extends from the kite to the kite’s flyer.
In the early days of kite flying, the Chinese used silk to fly their kites, while the Japanese made cord from cotton or hand-woven hemp. In India, braided 9-strand cotton cord was made and then coated with an adhesive embedded with ground glass. These were often used on kites in kite fighting competitions involving cutting the lines of other kite flyers.
Line choice is important and will affect the type of kite you fly and the type of kite you engage in. Different line types have different characteristics that make them suitable or unsuitable for certain kites and certain flying styles.
The most common lines used for kites are the following.
cotton line. The cotton line is the original line used on kites and it can be single line or braided cotton. This line is often sold with lower priced kites or with kites intended for children. Although this line is cheap, it has some disadvantages and has lost popularity in the kite flying community. Many kite shops no longer carry cotton yarn for kite flying. Cotton thread is strong, which is positive for this type of kite thread, and it’s not expensive. The downside to this type of cord is that it can be heavy compared to other types of cord and it gets tangled very easily.
The cotton line is the original line used on kites and it can be single line or braided cotton. This line is often sold with lower priced kites or with kites intended for children. Although this line is cheap, it has some disadvantages and has lost popularity in the kite flying community. Many kite shops no longer carry cotton yarn for kite flying. Cotton thread is strong, which is positive for this type of kite thread, and it’s not expensive. The downside to this type of cord is that it can be heavy compared to other types of cord and it gets tangled very easily. nylon cord. This type of line is very common among kite flyers and is often used for flying smaller single line kites. It’s also relatively inexpensive, and it’s strong and durable. The disadvantage of twisted nylon cord is that it unravels over time and also tends to get tangled. The tangles can get messy and difficult to untangle. You can get this cord in a braided form, which reduces the tendency to tangle.
This type of line is very common among kite flyers and is often used for flying smaller single line kites. It’s also relatively inexpensive, and it’s strong and durable. The disadvantage of twisted nylon cord is that it unravels over time and also tends to get tangled. The tangles can get messy and difficult to untangle. You can get this cord in a braided form, which reduces the tendency to tangle. polyester line. This line can be braided or twisted and is more expensive than the other two options. However, this leash is thinner and lighter and stronger than the other two options, which accounts for the extra cost. Dacron is a brand name that supplies this type of cord and you will find this brand synonymous with this type of cord. This cord can become tangled if you’re not careful, but knots are easier to untie. An advantage of braided line is that it lays flat when it unravels, rather than wanting to form loops that get tangled easily.
The advantage of nylon and polyester cords is that they come in different weights, thicknesses and gauges. This makes them versatile as you can adjust the line size and load capacity to suit the size and type of kite you are flying.
What is the best line for kites?
The best line for your kite is to use a line that is most suitable for your kite type. While this may sound unhelpful, there is no point in fitting an entry level kite with a high quality, expensive line when plain nylon line will do.
So if you have an entry level kite and are just starting out and generally fly in medium wind conditions then a nylon line will suffice for your needs. While prone to tangles, you’ve only earned your stripes as a kite flyer when you’ve had to unravel a crow’s nest of kite lines!
However, if you want to choose the best kite flying line, then a braided polyester line would be the line of choice. The polyester lines give you a wide range of weights and diameters to choose a line that works for your kite.
From a strength to weight ratio and versatility perspective, braided polyester line is the best line for kite flying. Although this leash is a bit more expensive, the better quality leash is worth it as this leash is also abrasion and stretch resistant and will last a long time.
Some tips on kite lines
Many people neglect the line on their kites and also think that any old line will do. This is not the case and if you want to get the most out of your kite, using the right line will improve the performance of the kite and make kite flying safer and more fun!
Kite lines can stretch and wear out over time, so it’s worth checking your lines regularly for signs of wear. Lines showing signs of wear or fraying should be replaced as soon as possible. This not only applies to the line itself, but also to the bridle lines on the kite that are connected to the main line.
Knots are a weak point in the cord. Knots can be strengthened by using a polyester sheath over the knot and will also prevent the knot from sliding up and down the cord.
Tight kite lines can be dangerous because of the tension these lines can be under, especially when the wind is strong. The line can cut your hands or cut people nearby. Always fly your kite away from people and consider wearing gloves to protect your hands from the line.
Never use fishing line to fly your kite. Fishing line has a lot of elasticity, or stretch, and the line can stretch significantly before it breaks. If this happens, the broken line could snap back at you or anyone nearby, causing serious injury. Kite lines are designed not to have the same amount of stretch, making it safer to use on your kite.
Do not use steel cables or lines on your kite. A tight steel line can cut like a razor blade, so you should never attach a steel line to your kite. The steel line also acts as a conductor and can pose a risk to the kite flyer from power lines, lightning, and even from a discharge of static electricity that accumulates on the kite at higher altitudes and in strong winds.
Conclusion
I remember making kites as kids and using plain butcher’s twine to tie them to our kites and although we may have ragged to get the kites airborne, we managed. This shows that you don’t need to have anything special to make your kite fly.
However, advances in modern products and technology have made it possible to get some fantastic kite flying lines at fairly reasonable prices and within reach of most kite pilots.
While it’s possible to use fewer materials for your kite line, why not try a good braided polyester line to improve your kite flying and make it less of a physical workout!
references
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kite
http://www.awindofchange.com/lessons/lesson1-4.html
https://www.my-best-kite.com/kite-string.html
https://www.funwithwind.com/store/ListCategoriesAndProducts2.asp?idCategory=173&idparent=168https://drachen.org/kite-building/
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