Splotched Sinaloan Milk Snake? The 80 Top Answers

Milk snakes are among the most beautiful subspecies of any genus and they are easy to keep in captivity, which explains why they are incredibly popular with reptile hobbyists. The milk snake genus contains an incredible variety of snakes that come in a wide range of sizes and habitats. Milk snakes come from grasslands, farmlands, pine and deciduous forests and generally reach an adult size of 2 to 5 feet. For these reasons, it’s difficult to provide a single care sheet for all milk snake species and subspecies, but below is a basic overview of how to keep your milk snake happy and healthy.

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Housing

Baby and juvenile milk snakes can be housed in an enclosure as small as 10 gallons (20″ x 10″ x 12″H), but adults should be housed in a larger enclosure of 20 to 70 gallons (36″ x 18″ x 25″H). depending on their full adult size to allow for extra space and better design. For example, a subspecies that becomes a 4-foot adult should be housed in an enclosure that is at least 40 gallons. There’s no cage too big for a milk snake, so bigger is always better than smaller. Because milk snakes, like most snakes, are escape artists, a secure screen top is absolutely critical to preventing your snake from escaping the enclosure.

You should NEVER house more than one milk snake together, as milk snakes are sometimes cannibalistic.

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substrate

heating

Like all reptiles, milk snakes require a thermal gradient made up of a warm side (86 °F) and a cool side (24 °C). It is best to heat your milk snake’s enclosure with a combination of heating mat and ceramic radiant heater. We recommend a heating mat under the tank and an infrared ceramic heater. The heating mat and ceramic radiant heater should be on one side while the other side should have no heat source. We recommend controlling the ceramic heater with a thermostat and monitoring the temperatures with a thermometer.

lighting

Milk snakes, like all snakes, do not require a light or UV lamp. If you decide to add a lightbulb to bring more light into your cage, make sure you maintain the right heat but don’t go above 88 degrees. F as this could harm your snake’s health.

Protection

Hiding places in their enclosure are essential for the well-being of your milk snakes. The shelter can be anything from a hide box to a decorative reptile shelter, hide hut or den. It’s always a good idea to have one shelter on the warm side and one on the cool side. If you decide to build a hide yourself, please make sure it is sturdy enough that your snake cannot collapse and get crushed.

Spill

Like all reptiles and amphibians, milk snakes shed all their skin at once. Babies shed more than adults because they outgrow their skin faster as babies. You’ll notice shed time when your snake’s eyes turn a shade of blue and cloudy.

Snakes usually shed their skin easily, but sometimes they have problems if they don’t have the right moisture when they shed their skin. Because of this, it’s important to maintain decent humidity in the cage by misting it a few times a day. This is especially true around the time of shedding. Providing a moist shelter is another way to ensure the necessary moisture during molting. Use moistened peat moss or Zoo Med Forest Floor Cypress in your snake’s skin.

You’ll need to check your snake after it’s skinned to make sure it’s been able to slough off all of the skin, especially around the eyes. If unhidden skin is not removed promptly, serious health problems can result. If your milk snake has retained skin after molting, you can place the snake in a plastic container lined with warm, damp paper towels with the container lid on, or soak the snake in warm water. Leave the snake in the container or warm water for about 30 minutes. The high humidity in the container or the soaking method should loosen the skin enough that you can easily remove it with tweezers. If the skin hasn’t loosened enough, reheat the paper towels with warm water and do another 30-minute session. NEVER use hot water as this can burn your snake.

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water

Be sure to provide your milk snake with a large bowl of water. The bowl should be big enough for the milk snake to suck in its entire body, but not so big that it might have trouble getting in or out of the bowl. Place the water bowl on the cool side of the cage so it doesn’t evaporate quickly.

meal

Milk snakes eat mice and rats, so the size of the prey depends on the snake’s size. You should not feed your milk snake anything larger than the thickest part of its body. The prey should leave an easily recognizable lump in the snake. This is fairly normal for all snake species. Young snakes are typically fed every 5 days, while adults are typically fed every 10 days. However, it should be noted that some hobbyists feed adult snakes once a week.

Is feeding live or pre-killed better? Opinions on this issue differ, but we emphasize that thawed frozen rodents are a much better option. First, feeding thawed rodents is easier, and second, it’s a lot cheaper because you can buy rats or mice in bulk and then store them in the freezer. More importantly, it’s significantly safer for the snake. The bottom line is that a thawed prey mouse or rat will never bite or chew on your snake in defense. Nasty rodent bites were inflicted on snakes when fed live rodents. We encourage you to be smart and feed thawed prey.

vitamins

It’s important to feed your snake quality rodents, and it’s always a good idea to coat the rodent with some vitamin and calcium powder before feeding. We stock a full line of high quality reptile vitamins and calcium.

cage maintenance

Milk snakes require minimal grooming as they typically shed small amounts of semi-solid liquid. Aspen and similar substrates allow for quick cleaning of faeces and one of our scoops allows you to perform this task when defecation occurs. All bedding should be discarded and the entire cage (including all accessories) washed with a mild detergent at least every four to five months. If you use paper towels, change all paper towels at least once a week.

hibernation

Hibernation, which is natural for milk snakes in the wild, is not necessary for pet milk snakes. We believe you should warm your milk snakes throughout the winter to keep them eating, drinking, and active. A generally reduced eating behavior is normal in the winter months due to temperature fluctuations in your barn. As long as they maintain a fairly constant weight this is generally not a problem and normal feeding will usually resume in the spring.

Red Milk Snakes Red milk snakes have a white, yellow, or tan body with reddish banded spots that are outlined in black. They are often confused with coral snakes.

Brightly colored and strikingly patterned, milk snakes are nonvenomous New World snakes with a wide range throughout North and South America. They are often mistaken for dangerous copperheads or coral snakes; However, milk snakes pose no threat to humans. In fact, they are popular pets that can be easily bred in captivity.

They are a kind of king snake. Milk snakes and king snakes belong to the genus Lampropeltis. In Greek, this means “shining shields,” according to Anapsid.org. The name fits the genus, known for its well-defined, glossy scales.

According to Bill Heyborne, a herpetologist and professor of biology at Southern Utah University, there are 24 recognized subspecies of milk snakes (Lampropeltis triangulum). “Some scientists have suggested that they should actually be split into multiple species,” he said.

The scarlet king snake was classified as a subspecies of the milk snake until 2006, when scientists determined it was a separate species, according to the Virginia Herpetological Society.

According to the University of Michigan’s Animal Diversity Web (ADW), milk snakes get their name from a folk tale describing a snake sneaking into a barn and drinking the milk of nursing cows. This story is unrelated to reality and scientifically impossible because snakes don’t have lips and can’t take that much milk.

Looks

The appearance and coloration of milk snakes varies somewhat between the 24 subspecies, but all have banded coloration, Heyborne said. “These bands can vary in color from white to red to black, and alternating bands of different colors are common,” he said. The lighter area separating the colorful bands can be white, yellow, or orange. The darker bands are outlined in black. Many milk snakes have a bright Y or V shape on their necks.

According to the ADW, milk snakes are between 35.5 and 175 centimeters long. The longest snakes are found in Central and South America. Milk snakes in the United States and Canada do not grow larger than 129 cm. Milk snakes have between 19 and 23 rows of scales that are smooth. You have an anal plate. Milk snakes are sexually similar, meaning that males and females grow the same length, coloration, and pattern.

Like many nonvenomous snakes, milk snakes have round pupils, according to PA Herps.com.

Confused with poisonous snakes

“Milk snakes are known to use mimicry as a defense strategy,” Heyborne said. They are often confused with copperheads and coral snakes because they all have light, mottled coloring. Non-venomous milk snakes evolved to look like these venomous species to scare predators. “This type of mimicry, where a harmless species mimics a harmful species, is known as Batesian mimicry,” Heyborne said. It can be an effective defensive strategy, but has presented other problems for milk snakes. People often kill harmless milk snakes because they consider them dangerous.

According to the Savannah River Ecology Laboratory, an easy way to tell milk snakes from copperheads is to look at the shape of their spots. Milk snakes’ bands are rounded and thick, while copperheads’ spots have a distinctive hourglass shape.

The coloration of some milk snakes resembles that of the dangerous coral snake. “Many subspecies of milk snakes overlap the venomous coral snake in range,” Heyborne said. “Coral snakes also have alternating color bands, but the patterning differs between the two snakes. Coral snakes have red and yellow bands next to each other, while the harmless milk snake has red and black bands next to each other.

In areas of the world where both types are found, there are a variety of rhymes that have been used to help people distinguish the two. For example: “Red on yellow kills a guy. Red on black, friend of Jack.”

Milk snakes sometimes try to trick predators into believing they are rattlesnakes by shaking their tails. Again, this can cause problems when people think they are dealing with a dangerous rattlesnake. But rattlesnakes and milksnakes don’t look very alike; Rattlesnakes are duller in color and thicker than milk snakes.

Where milk snakes live

Milk snakes have a greater geographic range than most snakes and the widest range of any snake in North America. They can be found as far north as Ontario and Quebec and as far south as Venezuela, according to Western Connecticut State University. They live throughout Mexico and Central America. In the United States, they can be found almost everywhere except on the West Coast.

Given their wide range, milk snakes must be able to thrive in a variety of habitats. According to the Savannah River Ecology Laboratory, they most commonly like wooded locations, but are also comfortable in fields, rocky outcrops, farmland, and barns. They like to spend much of the day under rocks, planks, or hiding in dark places in barns. Contrary to their fairy tale of the same name, milk snakes do not visit barns to “milk” the cows. Instead, they seek out the rodents that live there.

behavior

Milk snakes are generally solitary and primarily nocturnal, being most active at night and at dusk. When it’s wet or chilly outside, they sometimes venture out during the day, according to Montana Outdoors magazine. On hot days, milk snakes are usually found under rocks, logs, or in burrows.

Milk snakes spend the winter in a state of brumation in communal burrows. Brumation is like hibernation, but the animal wakes up to drink water. The burrows can be in caves or in crevices. Other snakes, including rattlesnakes, are also sometimes present, according to the ADW.

hunting and feeding

Milk snakes are carnivores that eat a variety of prey, including mammals and birds, Heyborne said. Common prey include mice, rats, voles, and other rodents found in agricultural areas, as well as lizards, snakes, and snake and bird eggs. Sometimes they even eat their doubles, the dangerous coral snakes.

“Milk snakes are strong constrictors,” Heyborne said. They wrap their bodies tightly around their prey until their hearts stop due to lack of blood flow. Once the prey is dead, the milk snake swallows it whole.

reproduction and lifespan

Milk snakes mate from around March to May, depending on the subspecies. They breed when they awaken from the brood, although they sometimes mate while still in their winter burrows, according to the University of Michigan. Outside the cavity, the female leaves a pheromone trail once she begins ovulating. The males follow their trail.

Milk snakes sometimes copulate for hours at a time, according to Western Connecticut State University. This can serve to prevent other males from mating with an ovulating female.

Milk snakes are oviparous, meaning the mother lays eggs. Around 30 days after copulation, she lays between two and 17 eggs. Milk snakes often lay eggs in rotting logs, under rocks, or buried in the ground, according to the Virginia Herpetological Society. A warm, humid place is important for proper incubation, which can last a month or two. Once the eggs are laid, there is no further parental involvement.

Juveniles range from 6 to 7 inches and are light in coloration, dulling somewhat as they mature. Juveniles typically eat invertebrates before they become mammals and birds, Heyborne said.

Milk snakes reach full maturity between 3 and 4 years. Their lifespan in the wild is unknown, but in captivity they have lived up to 22 years, according to the ADW.

risk status

Milk snakes are not protected federally or on the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) Red List (Vulnerable List). However, in some states they are locally protected, e.g. B. in Georgia and Montana, where they are listed as a “species of concern”.

Taxonomy/Classification

The taxonomy of milk snakes according to the Integrated Taxonomic Information System (ITIS) is:

Kingdom: Animalia

: Animalia sub-kingdom : Bilateria

: Bilateria Infrakingdom : Deuterostomia

: Deuterostomia Phylum : Chordata

: Chordata Subphylum : Vertebrates

: Vertebrata Infraphylum : Gnathostomata

: Gnathostomata Upper class : Tetrapoda

: Tetrapoda Class : Reptilia

: Reptile order : Squamata

: Squamata Suborder : Serpentes

: Serpentes Infraorder : Alethinophidia

: Alethinophidia Family: Colubridae

: Colubridae Genus : Lampropeltis

: Lampropeltis Species: Lampropeltis triangulum

select subspecies

Here are a few popular milk snake subspecies:

Eastern milk snake

Perhaps the best-known milk snake, the eastern milk snake (Lampropeltis triangulum triangulum) is distributed across much of the northeastern United States. It ranges from Maine to Minnesota and Iowa and as far north as northern Georgia, according to the Ohio Public Library Information Network.

The eastern milk snake is slender with reddish-brown mottled bands edged with black on a tan or gray background. The abdomen has a black and white checkerboard look, according to the Savannah River Ecology Laboratory. They grow to be about 1.2 meters long. Eastern milk snakes are often confused with copperheads, but their spots have very different shapes.

Honduran milk snakes have bright reddish-orange and black stripes. (Image credit: Galina Savina Shutterstock)

Honduran milk snake

In the wild, Honduran milk snakes (Lampropeltis triangulum hondurensis) are bright reddish-orange with black stripes. Between the black stripes is a narrow band of either white/yellow (referred to as the tricolor morph) or a lighter orange (referred to as the tangerine morph). Tricolor Morphs have bands that extend around the belly and Tangerine Morphs have bands that extend down the sides. Honduran milk snakes are popular pets, and other color morphs have been bred in captivity, according to Western Connecticut State University.

According to the Pittsburgh Zoo, Honduran milk snakes are found in Honduras, the southwestern United States, Nicaragua, and Costa Rica. They get about 4 meters long.

Pueblan milk snake

Pueblan milksnakes (Lampropeltis triangulum campbelli) are commonly confused with coral snakes, according to the American Museum of Natural History. Her ribbon pattern is red, black, white, black, red. Coral snakes have yellow bands alongside the red ones.

The red bands of Pueblan milk snakes are about twice as wide as the black and white bands. Other color morphs have been bred in captivity, according to Wildlife North America. Pueblan milk snakes are popular pets. They are relatively small, growing to about 30 inches (76 cm), according to the University of Pittsburgh.

Pueblan milk snakes are sometimes referred to as Campbell’s milk snakes. They are called “Pueblan” because they are native to Puebla, Morelos, and Oaxaca, Mexico, according to the American Museum of Natural History.

Red milk snakes

Red milk snakes are often confused with coral snakes, according to the Missouri Department of Conservation. They have a white, yellow, or tan body with reddish banded spots outlined in black, meaning the “red touch black, friend of Jack” is part of the rhyme.

Red milk snakes are relatively small, growing to between 53 and 71 cm on average. They can be aggressive when threatened, according to Wildlife North America, but are still sometimes kept as pets. Like all milk snakes, they are non-venomous and not dangerous to humans.

Red milk snakes are found in parts of the American South and Midwest, including Kansas, Missouri, southern Illinois, southwest Indiana, Kentucky, Iowa, northern Arkansas, and western Tennessee.

Additional Resources

One of the most common but misidentified snakes in northern New England is the eastern milk snake. Unlike species like the northern water snake, which are often confused with similarly patterned copperheads or cottonmouths, the milk snake is mistaken not only for timber rattlesnakes, but also for another venomous species that doesn’t actually exist: the “spotted” or “spotted adder.” “. . Early European settlers, familiar with Europe’s venomous adders, probably thought the milk snakes looked similar here, and unfortunately this centuries-old case of mistaken identity persists to this day, leading to many of these harmless snakes being persecuted in the Northeast. It is well known, especially in more rural areas, that these spotted snakes, which are commonly found around barns and stone walls, are highly venomous and that a bite from a snake will make you ill, although in reality nothing could be further from the truth could. Additionally, many who rightly refer to the species as the milk snake have been told at some point in their lives that they got their name from their tendency to steal milk straight from the udders of livestock in the barns they frequent. I can’t think of a single other non-venomous species with so much myth and misinformation, so I thought this month it would be helpful to go through factual information about this unique species and I hope that by doing so I could also help out this species endearing to at least a few people who don’t particularly like snakes.

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This care sheet covers a variety of milk snakes including:

banana

Desert

East

Pueblan

overview

Lampropeltis triangulum

Milk snakes are found over a large geographical area from South America to Canada. Milk snakes are non-venomous and belong to the colubrid snake family. They consist of 24 different subspecies that differ in appearance. These snakes are popular as pets as they are among the most beautiful in the world and come in a wide variety of colors and patterns.

Typical appearance and behavior

Despite variations in color and pattern, almost all milk snakes have alternating red, yellow, and black circumferential bands running the length of their bodies. They closely resemble the venomous coral snake often found in the same geographic areas, which helps them evade potential predators. Non-venomous milk snakes can be distinguished from venomous coral snakes simply by the arrangement of the colored bands. In milksnakes (with the exception of the eastern milksnakes, which do not have distinctive bands), the red bands are always surrounded by black bands, while in the coral snake, red bands sit next to yellow bands – hence the old rhyme “red on yellow, kill a fellow”

Milk snakes are generally docile, but if they feel threatened by a predator, they may wag their tails and smack or defecate or urinate on the predator to discourage restraint.

To get them used to handling, periodically pick them up and hold hands with them as they move, making sure to avoid their faces

As your snake prepares to molt, over the course of a few days its eyes will turn milky blue/grey and its body color will dull and develop a whitish sheen. You may become irritable; Avoid handling if possible

Characteristics Care Difficulty Moderate Average Lifespan Up to 15+ years with proper care, depending on species Average Adult Size 2 to 4 feet long depending on species Diet Carnivore Minimum Habitat Size Minimum 20L tank for an adult

habitat

habitat size

A 10-gallon tank is sufficient for a youth; However, increase the habitat to a 20 liter tank to accommodate a medium sized adult. Depending on the species and under ideal conditions, they reach adult size in 3 years. Larger snakes should be housed in 40B tanks. Provide an adult milk snake with a habitat of appropriate size and shape to allow for normal behavior (including stretching out) and movement. Habitats should have a tight-fitting screen top to allow for adequate ventilation and prevent escape.

Build your living space

Substrate – Commercially available paper-based bedding is ideal as it is digestible if accidentally ingested. Aspen shavings are also acceptable. Pine and cedar shavings should be avoided as they contain oils that can irritate the skin and respiratory tract. The substrate should be deep enough for the snake to hide in. If you are using a reptile rug as a substrate, make sure you provide at least one hiding box so the snake can feel safe

– Commercially available paper-based litter is ideal as it is digestible if accidentally ingested. Aspen shavings are also acceptable. Pine and cedar shavings should be avoided as they contain oils that can irritate the skin and respiratory tract. The substrate should be deep enough for the snake to hide in. If you are using a reptile rug as a substrate, be sure to provide at least one hiding box for the snake to feel secure in. Plants or cork bark to create a hiding place just big enough for your snake to fit in, as well as twigs or other decorations for her to climb on. Decor is also important for snakes, which they can rub against while molting

– Provide driftwood, commercially available half logs or large rocks, artificial plants or cork bark to create a hiding spot just big enough for your snake to fit in, and branches or other decorations for it to climb on. Decor is also important for snakes to rub against when they shed moisture – The habitat should include a water bowl large enough for the snake to soak in to maintain moisture levels to keep the snake hydrated and help with the detachment. Maintain humidity between 40% and 60%; Monitor humidity with a moisture meter. Humidity should be higher during molting. Moisture can be increased during molting by creating a moist skin containing moist peat moss. Moss should be changed frequently to avoid mold growth

– The habitat should contain a bowl of water large enough for the snake to soak in to maintain humidity, hydrate the snake, and aid in molting. Maintain humidity between 40% and 60%; Monitor humidity with a moisture meter. Humidity should be higher during molting. Moisture can be increased during molting by creating a moist skin containing moist peat moss. Moss should be changed frequently to prevent mold growth. Temperature – Snakes are cold-blooded reptiles, which means they rely on their surrounding temperature to control their body temperature. To help them regulate their body temperature, provide a temperature gradient (85°F for the warm end and 70-75°F for the cool end/night) in the tank. Monitor the temperature with at least two thermometers – one in the cool zone and the other in the hot (sun) zone. Heat can be provided by a heat bulb, ceramic heat bulb, or a heating pad under the tank. Heat sources should be fitted to thermostats to regulate temperatures. Thermostats are especially important with heating pads, which can get hot and cause burns through the bottom of the tank if not set properly. Hot rocks should not be used as a heat source as they can burn reptiles. Reptiles that are not kept within the appropriate temperature ranges are more likely to become immunocompromised and ill

– Snakes are cold-blooded reptiles, which means they rely on their ambient temperature to control their body temperature. To help them regulate their body temperature, provide a temperature gradient (85°F for the warm end and 70-75°F for the cool end/night) in the tank. Monitor the temperature with at least two thermometers – one in the cool zone and the other in the hot (sun) zone. Heat can be provided by a heat bulb, ceramic heat bulb, or a heating pad under the tank. Heat sources should be fitted to thermostats to regulate temperatures. Thermostats are especially important with heating pads, which can get hot and cause burns through the bottom of the tank if not set properly. Hot rocks should not be used as a heat source as they can burn reptiles. Reptiles that are not kept within the appropriate temperature ranges are more likely to become immunocompromised and ill health. Providing snakes with low-level UVB light helps provide a clear day/night cycle (with 10 to 12 hours of daylight) that milk snakes need to perform their normal daily activities. UV lamps should be replaced every six months as their potency diminishes

Clean up your living space

Spot clean the habitat daily to remove feces. Thoroughly clean and disinfect the habitat at least once a week:

Place the snake in a safe habitat

Remove all substrate and habitat decorations

Scrub the aquarium and furnishings with a reptile habitat cleaner or 3% bleach solution

Rinse the tank and facility thoroughly with water, removing any traces of habitat cleaner or bleach odor

Dry the tank and setup completely

Add clean substrate and place the furnishings back in the tank

Put the snake back in its clean, dry habitat

feeding

A balanced milk snake diet consists of:

Frozen rodents of appropriate size, properly thawed and warmed

Pinkies to small mice may be fed to hatchlings/juveniles; Large mice or rats are usually fed to adults

Live rodents should not be fed, as live rodents can bite snakes that are not hungry and cause life-threatening injuries. If you must offer live rodents to a snake, never leave them unattended in the tank with the snake because of the potential for injury to the snake

Things to consider when feeding your milk snake:

Do not use a microwave to thaw frozen rodents, as microwaved rodents can have hot spots that can burn snakes’ mouths if they eat them

Do not prepare frozen rodents for feeding in the same area where you prepare human food. If unavoidable, disinfect the area thoroughly. See the Frozen/Thawed Food Feeding Care Sheet for more information

Feed juveniles once or twice a week and adults once a week; Reduce feeding adults to every two weeks if they become overweight

Feed in an empty tank separate from the habitat so the snake doesn’t contact your hand or the habitat lid opening with the feeding and doesn’t accidentally pick up litter from the habitat floor while feeding

Fresh, clean water should be available at all times in a non-tilting bowl large enough for the snake to soak in. The bowl should be placed at the cool end of the habitat to keep the water from evaporating too quickly

Since snakes don’t usually eat when they molt, avoid feeding when there are snakes in the shed

Care

Snakes periodically shed their skin and the covering over their eyes (called an eyecap or goggles); Make sure the humidity of the habitat is at an appropriate level for the snake to shed properly. The skin should be shed in one long piece

Never attempt to remove remaining eye caps yourself as this can easily damage them. Get veterinary help if eye caps remain

Where to buy a milk snake

Milk snakes are available at your local Petco Pet Care Center. Please call ahead to check availability.

deliveries

significant other

Domestic milk snakes individually

Don’t house different species of snakes together

Health

Sign of a healthy snake

Active and alert

Clear eyes (except for hair loss)

No discharge or blisters from eyes, nose or mouth

Eats food regularly and has bowel movements

Supple skin without lesions, swelling, scabs, parasites (mites, ticks) or discoloration

Regularly drains skin in one whole piece

Red Flags (If you notice any of these signs, contact your veterinarian)

Unusually frequent or infrequent shedding

Vomit

Lethargy or unwillingness to eat

Abnormal feces or lack of feces

Lesions, swelling, crusts, discoloration or parasites (mites, ticks) on the skin

Labored breathing/open-mouth breathing

Difficulty in detaching skin/detachment in numerous pieces/remaining skin after detachment

White, cheesy discharge or redness or scabs in the mouth

Lying on your back, unable to roll over right side up, or staring for a long time (“star gazing”)

Common Health Problems

Health Problem Symptoms or Causes Suggested Actions Health Problem Dermatitis Symptoms or Causes Blisters, rapid shedding from viral, bacterial, fungal or parasitic skin infections or an unclean habitat or a habitat with inappropriate temperature or humidity Suggested Action Consult your veterinarian Clean up the habitat and ensure the right temperature and humidity. Health problem Respiratory diseases Symptoms or causes Difficulty breathing/open-mouth breathing, stretched throat, mucus or blisters in the mouth, eyes or nostrils. Can be caused by infection with bacteria, viruses, fungi, parasites, or a habitat with inadequate temperature or humidity. Suggested action Consult your veterinarian and ensure proper temperature and humidity. Health Problem Stomatitis Symptoms or Causes Red, swollen, or scaly gums and/or white, cheesy mouth discharge, tooth loss, decreased appetite, or weight loss. Can be caused by bacterial, viral, or fungal infections, or improper temperature or humidity. If left untreated, it can be fatal. Suggested action Contact your vet immediately and ensure proper temperature and humidity. Health problem Ticks and mites Symptoms or causes Parasites on the skin can cause itching and hyperactivity and transmit diseases. Recommended action Contact your veterinarian. Drain and thoroughly disinfect habitat.

frequently asked Questions

What Do Milk Snakes Eat? Milk snakes should be offered appropriately sized frozen rodents (mice and rats, depending on the age and size of the snake) that have been properly thawed and warmed.

Milk snakes should be offered appropriately sized frozen rodents (mice and rats, depending on the age and size of the snake) that have been properly thawed and warmed. How big do milk snakes get? Milk snakes can grow from 2 to 4 feet in length, depending on the species.

Milk snakes can grow from 2 to 4 feet in length, depending on the species. Is a milk snake poisonous? No, milk snakes are not venomous or poisonous.

No, milk snakes are not venomous or poisonous. Where do milk snakes live? Milk snakes are found over a large geographical area from South America to Canada.

Milk snakes are found over a large geographical area from South America to Canada. What is a milk snake? Milk snakes are non-venomous and belong to the colubrid snake family. They consist of 24 different subspecies that differ in appearance.

Milk snakes are non-venomous and belong to the colubrid snake family. They consist of 24 different subspecies that differ in appearance. How long do milk snakes live? Milk snakes can live up to 15+ years with proper care.

Milk snakes can live up to 15+ years with proper care. What does a milk snake look like? Despite variations in color and pattern, almost all milk snakes have alternating red, yellow, and black circumferential bands running the length of their bodies. They closely resemble the venomous coral snake often found in the same geographic area, which helps them evade potential predators. Non-venomous milk snakes can be distinguished from venomous coral snakes simply by the arrangement of the colored bands. In milk snakes (except for the eastern milk snake, which does not show distinct banding), the red bands are always surrounded by black bands.

Despite variations in color and pattern, almost all milk snakes have alternating red, yellow, and black circumferential bands running the length of their bodies. They closely resemble the venomous coral snake often found in the same geographic area, which helps them evade potential predators. Non-venomous milk snakes can be distinguished from venomous coral snakes simply by the arrangement of the colored bands. In milk snakes (except for the eastern milk snake, which does not show distinct banding), the red bands are always surrounded by black bands. How big does a milk snake get? Milk snakes can grow from 2 to 4 feet in length, depending on the species.

Additional care sheets

Popular Varieties

Milk snakes are a subspecies of the king snake. According to legend, the snakes would hatch in barns at night, wrap themselves around the legs of dairy cows and slurp their milk straight from the udder. And so they were named. Of course that’s not true, it’s hard to believe, but the name stuck.

Today there are more than two dozen different subspecies of the milk snake; only about ten to fifteen different subspecies are available from breeders and dealers as captive bred specimens.

Here are some of the easiest to find and most popular strains of Milksnake. This is a non-venomous, usually docile species that’s perfect for beginners.

Black Milk Snake

The Black Milk Snake is a large variety, growing to around 4 to 6 feet in length. As a juvenile, it is colored either red, black and white, or yellow. Its color gradually changes, becoming covered with dark pigments until it becomes black-brown or completely black. Adults of this strain can be nervous, so be careful when handling her for the first time.

Central Plains milk snake

A smaller species of milk snake, the Central Plains Milksnake, grows to a maximum of 2 feet in length. Coloration is usually red, black, and yellowish white with very narrow banding. Even adults of this strain may only be able to eat small mice when they are fully grown.

Eastern milk snake

This snake is widespread in the United States and can grow to 2 to 4 feet in length. It assumes a gray and reddish brown coloring with a spotted pattern. Most snakes of this species have a brown arrowhead or spearhead pattern on their heads, similar to a corn snake. The Ostmilch is easy to care for and is ideal for beginners.

Honduran milk snake

The Honduran milk snake is one of the most popular milk snake subspecies. It grows to 4 to 5 feet in length with a strong, thick body. It is a colorful snake with broad bands of red, black, and orange-yellow. Another good subspecies for beginners, the Honduran milk is hardy but can be jumpy, so watch out for bites.

Louisiana milk snake

The Louisiana milk is on the small side, growing to 2 feet at most. It is a slender snake, with the red bands about twice as wide as the black and white bands. The Louisiana milk rarely has yellow bands, and its snout can vary from black to white with reddish flecks.

Mexican milk snake

Adults rarely exceed 30 inches and are lightly banded. Their yellow bands have black stripes on either side against a red background.

Nelson’s milk snake

Nelson’s Milksnake is one of the most colorful and popular subspecies. It has bright yellowish-white bands flanked by broad and short black bands and broad red bands. It also comes in many different color morphs. Nelson’s milk snakes can grow to over 3 feet in length and have a slender body.

Milk snake from New Mexico

The New Mexico Milk is one of the smallest varieties of Milksnake, only growing to between 14 and 18 inches in length. It is a slender milk snake and has a clean, bright color pattern that makes it extremely desirable. The red areas are wide and light, with narrow black rings. The white rings tend to be a clean white color, not muddy at all.

Pale Milk Snake

Adults of this subspecies only grow to between 18 and 24 inches, making it one of the smaller milk snake subspecies. Native to the northernmost regions of the milksnake’s range, the Pale Milksnake got its name because its coloration is slightly lighter than other tricolors. Its background is never yellow, usually a dusty white, and the black rings around the red areas are small or absent. The red areas are usually developed as saddles – meaning they don’t encircle the snake’s abdomen – and may be orange rather than red.

Pueblan milk snake

Once a rarity, the Pueblan milk snake is now bred in a variety of colors and is very popular with herpetoculturists. The Pueblan milk grows up to 3 feet in length and is bred in apricot, albino, and tangerine colors.

Red Milk Snake

These are one of the most common milk snakes. Unlike other milks, its red is limited to wide saddles down the middle of its back, outlined by narrow black lines. The head is mostly red, with a black and white snout, making it one of the most distinctive milk snakes. It grows to over 3 feet in length and is a hearty eater, often feeding on full-size mice once it hatches.

Sinaloan milk snake

Sinaloan milk is widely available and affordable. It grows to at least 4 feet long and is a hearty eater from the time it hatches. Sinaloan milk can vary widely in color but is most commonly red. They can also have broad orange-red bands separated by short black bands, and some specimens are found solid red.

Stuart’s milk snake

Stuart’s Milks are bold and light in color and grow to between 3 and 4 feet in length. This snake’s red rings are typically wide, while the black and white rings remain narrow.

milk snake size

Because there are so many different subspecies of the Milk Snake (50+), the size can be quite powerful. On average, and depending on the species, milk snakes can grow to between 51 and 152 inches long, although some have grown up to 7 feet long.

Milk snake lifespan

Milk snakes that are born and raised in captivity can live for at least twelve years, so prepare to make a moderate to long-term commitment. The exact lifespan of your pet Milksnake depends on its species, genetics, and quality of care.

milk snake appearance

Milk snakes are members of a large group of snakes commonly referred to as “tricolors” by herpetoculturists and hobbyists. The term refers to the ringed tricolor pattern that almost all milk snakes have. Variations in milk snake coloration can be described as ringed, saddled, or spotted, and the colors are usually red and black on a whitish to yellow background.

Most of the 25 recognized milksnake subspecies are fairly similar, with their markings following the theme of bands around the body, varying in number and width. The basic color combinations are red/orange, yellow/white and black. Some milk snake subspecies appear mottled, not banded. With so many milk snakes being bred in captivity, there are also many color morphs, and more to come.

A small but important note on milk snake color combinations: milk snakes are not venomous, but they have evolved to use Batesian mimicry as a defense mechanism, mimicking the colors of local venomous snakes to evade their common predators. The folk mnemonic “Red on yellow kills a guy; Red on black, lack of venom” refers to the color combinations of the dangerously venomous coral snake, which resembles the harmless milk snake. The rhymes aside, never approach a snake in the wild, no matter how certain you think it isn’t venomous!

Milksnake care level

Milk snakes are a perfect species of snake for beginners as well as intermediate breeders and hobbyists. They are calm, gentle and peaceful – unless provoked. With their simple cage requirements, generally small size, adaptability to captive life, readily available diet (for most species), and striking beauty, it’s no surprise that milk snakes are among the most popular pet snakes in America.

Milk Snake Diet

Milk snakes are strict carnivores but are not usually fussy eaters – with the exception of picky juveniles and wild-caught specimens. Young milk snakes will eat small prey such as crickets and earthworms. Adults prefer to feed on small rodents, lizards, frogs and even other snakes.

Mice are the favorite small rodents of choice when it comes to securing a readily available food source for your pet milk snake. Feeder mice are available at any pet store, from a rodent breeder, or online.

Depending on the size of your milk snake, you will need to feed it an appropriately sized rodent. Pinkies and fuzzies (newborn mice) do best with young or small milk snakes. As the snake grows, consider increasing the size and amount of food provided. A “appropriately sized” rodent will leave a small bump on the snake after eating.

Milk snakes don’t need complicated feeding schedules—regularity is all they need—so choose the day of the week that’s most comfortable for you and make that your feeding day. Milk snakes are typically fed once a week, with young milk snakes being fed more frequently than adults.

Newborn milk snakes can be fed one or two small mice per feeding, adult adults can handle one or two adult mice or small rat pups. If you have one of the larger milk snake specimens, an adult will usually eat two adult mice or rat pups.

Whether you’re offering your pet Milksnake live food or pre-killed and thawed food, don’t leave an uneaten meal in the snake’s cage. Live prey, if not eaten, can thrash about and injure your snake, and in some cases even kill it.

On the other end of the spectrum, a mouse that has been frozen and thawed if not eaten can become contaminated with bacteria and make your snake sick. Properly thawing frozen or freshly killed prey is the safest bet.

Milk snakes are generally hearty eaters. If you’re dealing with a stubborn or sick milk snake that just won’t eat, take it to a veterinarian.

Health of the milk snake

Common health issues in milk snakes

Milk snakes are hardy snakes that make very good pets in terrariums. However, like any pet, they occasionally have problems. Below are some health issues that milk snakes have in common and their symptoms.

Infectious diseases and parasites

Mites in milk snakes are like fleas in dogs and cats, only much more dangerous. Milk snakes can pick up mites from other infested snakes or from the pet store or breeder they came from.

Mite infestations on snakes can appear as many white, red, or black dots that move on closer inspection. Mites come out at night to feed on snakes’ blood and can cause serious stress and, in some cases, death in snakes. Many commercial pet stores sell miticides that you can use to clean your snake and its cage, but use caution when using miticides around small subspecies and juveniles. A safer alternative to commercial miticides is to give your milk snake a quick dip in olive oil and then gently rub the snake with a paper towel to remove excess oil. Exotic pet vets also have special medications to kill mites.

mouth rot

Mouth rot, also called infectious stomatitis, is a bacterial disease that occurs in snakes when their mouths become injured or food or debris gets lodged in them, causing a yellow, cheesy substance to coat the snake’s mouth and teeth, eventually eating away at its tissues.

Dry skin

Milk snakes can have trouble when it’s time to molt if their habitat isn’t humid enough. If your milk snake suffers from persistently patchy scales, or if its eyecaps don’t come off along with the rest of the scales, it’s time to see your vet.

respiratory infections

Upper respiratory tract infections (URIs) are usually caused by fluctuating cage temperatures and/or humidity, chronically cold habitats, and overcrowding. URIs are also common in stressed snakes and can recur if left untreated the first time. Milk snakes suffering from pneumonia or another URI often pant, hold their heads up, breathe with their mouths open, and have liquid or crusty secretions around their nostrils. Most URIs can be treated with antibiotics. So if you suspect your milk snake has a respiratory infection, take them to the vet immediately.

milk snake behavior

Milk snakes are generally extremely docile and easy to handle, however some of the adults of the subspecies can be quite nervous and will bite. Many hatchlings also tend to be agile, but will calm down after a few minutes of gentle handling. Remember that milk snakes are nocturnal creatures and treat them accordingly.

Supplies for the area surrounding the milk snake

Aquarium tank or terrarium setup

Milk snakes are small enough that you can house yours in a glass aquarium with a sturdy, breathable lid and safety clips. Locking mechanisms for the aquarium are not necessary, but can give your housemates a better sense of security. A good rule of thumb is that your milk snake’s enclosure is one and a half times larger than the snake’s length. You want to give your milk snake plenty of room to explore and flourish.

A suitable substrate (bedding) for your pet milk snake’s habitat may include newspaper, wood shavings, a mixture of vermiculite rocks and soil, or even sand. In no case should you use cedar wood as a substrate. Its natural oils can cause liver and respiratory problems in snakes in captivity.

Otherwise, you can get as creative as you like when choosing a substrate, just remember that you will need to clean and replace whatever you choose. The typical terrarium has a 2-inch layer of substrate that should be removed between spot cleanings and replaced weekly or monthly depending on conditions.

Water bowls in your milk snake habitat are great for maintaining humidity and giving your snake a place to bathe from time to time. To maintain proper humidity levels, you can either place a sponge in the water dish and re-wet if necessary, or spray your snake’s cage once or twice a day. In any case, use your hygrometer as a guide and make sure the case has adequate ventilation.

branches and shelters

Milk snakes need hiding spots where they can be alone from time to time (don’t we all?). Without a place to hide, they can become stressed and develop health problems and even aggression.

The good news is that providing a hideout is easy. It can be something as simple as a shoebox or plastic plant mat with a hole cut out. All you need are four walls and a roof. Just remember that the hideout needs cleaning just like the rest of the enclosure, so choose accordingly.

The milk snake’s natural habitat is full of nooks and crannies, trees and branches, so branches should always be included in a milk snake’s artificial habitat. The only considerations are that you choose branches sturdy enough to support the weight of your milk snake, and that you soak each wild-collected branch in one part bleach and three parts water for an hour, then rinse well until you’re done can no longer smell chlorine; Let it dry overnight before placing it in your snake enclosure. This will kill any parasites and bacteria that may be living on the branch.

heat and light

Milk snakes do well with a 25- to 50-watt incandescent bulb with a conical reflector aimed at a nearby rock or branch for basking. However, because milk snakes are nocturnal, they don’t need the full-spectrum lighting that other reptiles like lizards and turtles have, although some herpetoculturists swear that full-spectrum lighting can add years to a milk snake’s lifespan.

Whatever type of lighting you choose for your milksnake terrarium, make sure it is hung outside of the cage over the enclosure. Lightbulbs should NEVER be placed in a terrarium, even if it is screened. The same goes for any heat source, whether it’s hot rocks or heating pads. Snakes tend to coil around lightbulbs and other heat sources, and will burn themselves if given the opportunity.

humidity (humidity)

Milk snakes require special considerations regarding their heat and humidity. Ideal daytime temperatures in a milk snake enclosure are anywhere between 75 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, dropping a maximum of 4 degrees at night. As far as a heater goes, anything will work except hot rocks for milksnakes. Just make sure you build your heating system to provide a heating gradient within the enclosure. Snakes like to regulate their own body temperature. So if one end of the enclosure is warmer than the other, they have leeway to regulate the temperature.

As far as moisture requirements go, you need to know where your particular species of milk snake is from. Milk snakes from the southern end of the range require more moisture than those from the drier north. Most milk snakes do well in 40 to 70 percent relative humidity. Always make sure you have a thermometer and hygrometer set up in your milksnake enclosure to ensure proper air temperature and humidity.

Habitat and History of the Milk Snake

The milk snake is a subspecies of king snake found only in the New World. The milk snake’s range is extensive, stretching from southern Ontario west across the Rocky Mountains, then east to the Atlantic coast and extending south to northern Venezuela. In fact, the milk snake has the longest range of any American snake, and perhaps the largest of any snake in the world!

The king snake, of which the milk snake is a subspecies, was first described and classified in 1766. Many milk snakes are still collected in the wild, but we always recommend getting your pet milk snake from a reputable pet store or breeder.

This article was written by Dr. Adam Denish, VMD, reviewed and edited for accuracy.

Lampropeltis triangulum

How do you look? Milk snakes can grow from 35 to 175 cm in length, with the longest snakes being found in Mexico and Central America. In the United States, the length is usually 60 to 130 cm. They are very colorful snakes and their colors vary throughout their range. All milk snakes have a spotted or striped appearance, with darker spots separated by lighter stripes. The color of these darker spots can be very light to very dark, ranging from light brown to rusty to dark brown. The lighter areas can be orange, yellow, or white. The darker areas are always outlined in black. Milk snakes have 19 to 23 rows of smooth scales and a single anal plate. Other physical characteristics

heterothermal sexual dimorphism

Sexes equally range length 35 to 175 cm 13.78 to 68.90 in

Where do you live? Milk snakes are found throughout the eastern United States, southern Canada, and southern Mexico and Central America. They have a nearctic distribution. Biogeographic Regions

Nearctic native

What habitat do they need? Milk snakes can thrive in a variety of habitats. They are usually found near forest edges, but can also be found in open forests, prairies and meadows, near streams and rivers, on rocky slopes, and in suburban and farmland. Milk snakes are not rare, but they are mysterious and are therefore rarely seen. These animals are found in the following types of habitats

moderate

terrestrial Terrestrial biomes

savannah or grassland

Forest Aquatic Biomes

Rivers and streams Other habitat features

On site-

agricultural

Shore area Sea level elevation to 2600 m to 8530.18 ft

How do they reproduce? Milk snakes mate at their hibernation sites before emerging in spring. mating system

Polygynandre (promiscuous) milk snakes lay 2 to 17 (usually around 10) elliptical eggs in rotting logs or damp, warm leaf litter. They hatch after 28 to 39 days and hatch as young milk snakes 14 to 28 cm long. When they hatch, they are brightly colored, with oranges, reds, purples, and yellows. Their colors become duller with age. Young milk snakes become mature in 3 to 4 years. Important reproductive characteristics

iteroparous

seasonal breeding

sexually

fertilization internal

egg-laying How often does reproduction occur? Milk snakes breed once a year.

Breeding season Breeding takes place in spring and early summer, from April to June.

Average number of offspring 10

Gestation period range 28 to 39 days

Mean age at sexual or reproductive maturity (females) 3 to 4 years

Average age at sexual or reproductive maturity (males) 3 to 4 years Female milk snakes choose warm, humid nest sites. Once the eggs are laid, there is no further parental care. parental investment

no parental involvement

how long do they live The lifespan of milk snakes is unknown. However, single lived in captivity to be more than 21 years old. Most milk snakes probably die in their first year of life. range life

Status: captivity 21 (high) years

Average lifespan

Status: Captivity 22.6 years AnAge

How do they behave? Milk snakes are solitary, they are only found during their hibernation with other milk snakes when they travel to hibernation sites that protect them from extreme weather conditions during the winter. Milk snakes are most active during the day but are rarely seen then because they are secretive. They can sometimes be seen basking on rocks and roads in cool weather and at night. Milk snakes can stay active even in very hot weather, when other snakes usually try to take refuge from the heat. key behavior

dreadful

Every day

nocturnal

hibernation

lonely

How do they communicate with each other? Not much is known about milk snake communication. They use sight, hearing, touch and smell to perceive their surroundings. communication channels

chemical channels of perception

visually

tactile

acoustically

vibrations

chemical

What are you eating? Milk snakes are carnivores. Adults feed primarily on rodents such as voles, white-footed mice, and house mice, but will also eat birds, bird eggs, lizards, snake eggs, or other snakes, including venomous species such as coral snakes and rattlesnakes. Young milk snakes appear to feed primarily on other young snakes. When prey is caught, it is constricted (squashed) until it suffocates. It is then swallowed whole. Primary Nutrition

Carnivore eats terrestrial vertebrates

Animal products

birds

mammals

reptiles

eggs

What do they eat and how do they avoid being eaten? Milk snakes are prey for animals like raccoons, foxes, skunks, and coyotes. When threatened, milk snakes will vibrate their tails and try to look like a venomous rattlesnake. Their color pattern of alternating black, white, and reddish stripes also makes them look like another venomous snake, coral snakes. In some areas, their color patterns mimic copperhead snakes, which are also venomous. By looking like dangerous snakes, they avoid being hunted by many animals, but this often backfires when people mistake them for the dangerous snake and end up killing these otherwise harmless and helpful snakes. These animal colors help protect them

mimic

aposematic Known predators raccoons foxes skunks coyotes

What role do they play in the ecosystem? Milk snakes are important predators of small mammals, birds, and other snakes.

Are they causing problems? There are no negative effects of milk snakes on humans.

How do they interact with us? Milk snakes have a close relationship with humans as they are commonly found on farmland or in urban areas. These snakes are beneficial to humans as they feed on rodents that are concentrated around barns or garbage (Vogt 1981). How humans benefit from these animals:

controls the pest population

Are they endangered? Although milk snakes are often killed by people who mistake them for venomous snakes, they are widespread and still considered abundant in most parts of their range. (Canadian Amphibian & Reptile Conservation Network, March 1999) IUCN Red List [link] Not Assessed

US Federal List No special status

CITES No special status

The milk snake gets its name from an Old World folk tale. Legend has it that the snake sucks milk from nursing mothers and cows until they are dry. We know, of course, that this is impossible because the snake is harmless and a human mother or a cow certainly wouldn’t allow it. The snake’s stomach could only hold a few tablespoons of milk (Vogt 1981).

Contrary to legend, milk snakes do not milk cows. They hang around barns and other structures – sometimes around houses. Someone I know shares their abode with the occasional Milksnake intruder who seem to enjoy living in the crevices of the Foundation. It’s no use letting her know that she’s only looking for rodents and other small vermin – she doesn’t like them. To their credit, they’ve only occasionally become a nuisance and are merely evicted from the premises rather than being summarily decapitated, a common human response.

I saw one recently, three feet of languid elegance stretching across a bike path near where I live. Fearing for his life – as it almost blocked the right-of-way for bikes – I stamped on the ground to get his attention. With seeming nonchalance, it moved sideways and then into the tall grasses beside the river, flicking its tongue out every few seconds like snakes do.

Indeed, why are they doing this? Reference books tell me this is their sense of smell, but this statement is not entirely correct as the actual organ of smell is in their mouth. The tongue only senses the outside air. Because they don’t direct the air past their olfactory membrane, they can only smell what the wind throws at them, a strange mechanism at least from our point of view since we can sniff. What smells would they be sensitive to? Rodents, one might surmise, and other milk snakes, particularly females – when a male snake is the protagonist.

Milk snakes are harmless, but that doesn’t mean they won’t try to discourage those who would irritate them. Like many of its kin, it will squirm, hiss, and strike to strike fear into the hearts of its perceived enemies. This behavior should be forgiven, not beheaded.

These creatures are most commonly seen in spring and fall. After dark, they go after their prey, searching for mice with their flicking tongues, ready to immediately wrap themselves around them and squeeze them so they can’t breathe. That’s what constrictors do.

Milk snakes are given the name Lampropeltis triangulum triangulum, where the element “triangulum” refers to a triangular or Y-shaped mark at the top of their heads. Larger snakes have dull red bands adorning their bodies, but smaller ones have lighter red stripes outlined with black, all on a creamy white background.

After your initial surprise at seeing one, you must admire this animal for its stunning appearance. With so many snakes and reptiles disappearing due to habitat destruction, they are all the more to be appreciated. Let’s live with them in peace.

Want more about snakes? Check out these TADL books about snakes

Holman, J. Alan, Harding, James H., Hensley, Marvin M. and Dudderar, Glenn R., Michigan Snakes, Lansing: Michigan State University Press, 1993, 2006.

Holman, J. Alan, The Amphibians and Reptiles of Michigan: A Quaternary and Current Faunal Adventure, Detroit: Wayne State University Press, 2012.

Richard Fidler is Associate Editor of the Grand Traverse Journal.

Split

Milk snakes and king snakes are native to southern parts of Canada, the United States, and Central and South America. These snakes are beautiful, docile, and non-venomous. Milk snakes are a subspecies of 45 species of king snakes; There are 25 subspecies of milk snakes alone. These snakes are easy to keep and make a good beginner snake. They differ significantly in size, color and pattern. Many subspecies have striking, beautiful patterns, including some that have natural defenses, mimicking the red, black, and yellow streaks of venomous coral snakes. A key difference is that nonvenomous king and milk have black bands touching red bands while coral snakes have yellow bands touching red.

Species Overview Common Name: King Snake, Milk Snake Scientific Name: Lamproletis genus Adult Size: 36 to 48 inches long (average adult) Life Expectancy: 20 to 30 years

Behavior and Temperament of Kingsnake and Milk Snake

All species of kingsnakes are easy to handle once they become accustomed to them. They are low maintenance and require minimal care throughout the week.

This snake rarely strikes; It usually mistakes a finger for a prey item. A king or milk snake bite does not hurt. If he feels threatened, he will try to get away from you. It will also exude a musky odor from its anal glands (smelly but not harmful) or rattle the tip of its tail much like a rattlesnake would do as a warning.

After bringing a new snake home for a few days, you can start handling your snake. Be gentle and persistent, with short sessions daily to build confidence. It shouldn’t take too long for the snake to get used to the handling. Don’t touch snakes immediately after eating; it can cause them to vomit their meal.

These snakes are constrictors. They can try to wrap themselves around your arm, but they can’t harm you. To unwrap them, start at the tail end as their head tends to be stronger.

House your Kingsnake or Milk Snake

A secure cage is vital. King snakes are notorious for testing their enclosures and escaping the smallest of spaces. The enclosure requires a securely latched top. These snakes can sneak through tiny gaps that seem too small. Do not leave gaps, holes or thin breaks in the cage top.

King and milk snakes should be kept individually. Kingsnakes might eat other cagemates.

Hatchlings or the smaller New Mexico milk snake can live in a 10-gallon aquarium. However, medium-sized (36-inch) adult snakes will need a 20-gallon tank, and larger, adult-sized (60-inch) snakes would thrive in a larger enclosure, such as a 60-gallon tank. King and milk snakes are quite active and need space. Snakes that have room to stretch may also have fewer respiratory infections.

Several hiding places should be created: halves of bark, commercially available stone skins, fallen flowerpots, half coconut shells and even cardboard boxes can be used. To give the cage a natural look, you can incorporate rocks and branches into the cage.

You must completely clean the cage at least every 6 months. Between these overhauls, clean up stains or scoop out feces and clean the water bowl every day.

heat

Reptiles are cold-blooded creatures that must self-regulate their body temperature by moving between warmer and cooler spots in their habitat. Maintain a thermal gradient or temperature range in their enclosure of 70 to 85 F (21 to 28 C) during the day with a drop of 10 to 15 F (2 to 5 C) at night. There should be hiding places at each end of the gradient.

Most owners prefer under-tank heaters (placed under half of the tank) to provide the heat. Never use electric Hot Rocks; they can cause burns. If you are using an overhead heater, radiant heat sources such as ceramic radiant heaters are better than incandescent bulbs for nocturnal animals.

light

Because they are primarily nocturnal, they don’t need lighting as long as your room gets enough light to indicate the change between day and night. Most nocturnal animals do not require ultraviolet light, although a UVB (5.0) fluorescent light may be beneficial to aid in calcium absorption from their food.

humidity

King and milk snakes don’t need high humidity — 40 to 60 percent is sufficient. A hygrometer or moisture meter will help you check the moisture level. In most cases, a shallow bowl of water in the cage should be sufficient. They may benefit from extra moisture during molting. If you notice your snake entering a shedding phase (skin appears thin, eyes turn a milky blue color), lightly spray the cage or provide a humidity box. You can make a simple moisture box out of a covered plastic container, cut a hole in the lid big enough for the snake to climb in, and line it with moistened peat moss.

substrate

Substrate is the bedding or lining for the bottom of your pet’s cage. For new snakes, paper towels or butcher paper are ideal to make cleaning easier and allow you to monitor the droppings.

Various substrates that can be used include reptile carpet, astroturf, reptile bark, mulch, or aspen shavings (never use cedar, redwood, or pine). If shavings are used, make sure they are not ingested with the snake’s food.

Reptile rugs, or Astroturf, are the easiest, safest, and most economical option. It is washable and reusable. You can feed the snake on this surface without worrying about the snake eating the substrate and you can finish cutting several pieces for the cage if it gets dirty.

food and water

King and milk snakes are fed mice or baby rats. Typically, feed the snake the size of a mouse, which is roughly the width of the snake at its widest point (excluding the head). Feed hatchlings and hatchlings (subadult) twice a week. Adults can be fed adult mice (or weaned rats) once a week. If the snake is too lean (body not round, showing ribs or backbone), feed it twice a week. Many king and milk snakes tend to eat less in the fall and winter.

As with other pet snakes, feed pre-killed mice (usually frozen from a pet supply source) to ensure the prey cannot harm the snake. Thaw frozen mice to room temperature and feed them in a separate feeding cage (without substrate) or their cage if it has a secure floor.

Since snakes often defecate in water, clean the bowl daily and refresh with fresh, filtered water.

Common Health Problems

The biggest threat to a pet king snake or milk snake is respiratory infection. These snakes can catch colds or pneumonia, often caused by a problem with the temperature in the cage. Symptoms may include blisters or gurgling in the mouth, wheezing, or mucus around the nose.

If you notice food being thrown up in the cage, it may be because you touched the snake too soon after feeding. It’s not necessarily a sign of illness, although it can be. Other reasons for regurgitating food: The food offered was too big or the enclosure is too cool. If the regurgitation recurs, take the snake to an exotics veterinarian.

Choose your Kingsnake or Milk Snake

Milk snakes and king snakes breed fairly easily in captivity, so finding a captive bred specimen should be relatively easy. You can find reputable local breeders at a reptile show or through a recommendation from another snake owner or an exotics vet. Make sure your snake is already a good eater of pre-killed mice. When in doubt, ask for a demonstration of your snake feeding.

Expect to pay anywhere from $30 to $200 depending on the morph (color), strain rarity, and age. Hatchlings usually cost less as adults are proven eaters and thrive.

Signs of a healthy snake are a firm, rounded body; no discharge from the nose; no dust spots on the snake’s body (mites); no open-mouth breathing or wheezing; The inside of the mouth looks pink (not red or cheesy); shiny, smooth skin (no sores or scabs), clean fecal opening (venting), and movement without tremors.

A new snake may not be tame, but should settle down reasonably well with gentle handling. A desperate snake waves its body in the air trying to escape. Most king and milk snakes will calm down after a while and gently wrap themselves around your hands.

Similar species to Kingsnakes and Milk Snakes

If you’re interested in king or milk snakes, check out related species:

Otherwise, check out other types of reptiles and amphibians that can be your new pet.

Amazing Mimics There are currently 24 recognized subspecies of milk snakes. Each one differs in color and pattern, but most contain a mix of red, black, orange, and yellow rings. With the exception of the eastern milk snake, which resembles the venomous Massassauka rattlesnake, the colors and patterns mimic the venomous coral snakes found throughout the regions they originate from. Milk snakes range from southeastern Canada through most of the United States and Central America down to northern Venezuela in South America. These beautiful snakes get their name from erroneous stories of them sneaking into barns to drink milk from cows. Although they can often be found in barns, there they usually prey on the rodents that eat the cow’s grain.

Habitat Milk Snakes are found throughout North America and northern South America. They are found in a range of habitats from open prairies to tropical forests. Many of the species available in captivity, like the Honduran milk snake, are native to tropical areas where they live at low to moderate elevations and spend much of their time hiding and foraging through the leaf litter on the rainforest floor. Others, like the Sinaloan milk snake, live in arid and rocky semi-desert regions, where they often hide under rocks or in crevices.

Temperature and Humidity It is important to create a thermal gradient (or a warm side and a cool side) in the cage/enclosure. This can be done with an appropriately sized Zilla heating mat taped to the bottom of the tank on one side and adding adequate lighting. Ideal temperatures for milk snakes range from 75-82°F on the cool side and 80-85°F on the warm side. On the warm side, provide a basking range of 88-92°F. Using a Zilla Low Profile Dual Fixture with a Zilla 50W Mini Halogen Lamp and a Zilla Desert Mini Compact Fluorescent UVB Lamp will provide the right heat and UV radiation for your milk snake to thrive. While milk snakes do not require UVB to survive, UVA/UVB light has been shown to greatly improve the immune system, health and well-being of all reptiles, both during the day and at dusk. Be sure to place the light over the side with the heating mat to create the warm side of the thermal gradient. Spot clean the enclosure of urates and feces once a week and every 3 months remove and clean all substrate to disinfect the tank and decoration.

Feeding and Diet In the wild, milk snakes prey on small animals such as rodents, small birds, bird eggs, and occasionally other snakes. Hatchlings and juveniles sometimes feed on frogs or small lizards. Most hatchlings can be started with small mice every 3-5 days. Food can be gradually increased as needed. Most adult milk snakes can be fed adult mice to small adult rats every 5-7 days. A general rule of thumb when feeding snakes is to provide prey items that are about as wide as the snake’s widest part. If possible, try to get the snake to eat frozen, thawed rodents. It’s safer for the snake and easier to have a larger amount ready for weekly feedings.

Milk snakes are an excellent choice for snake lovers. The snakes have a vibrant appearance, with most showing at least three color variations and patterns. In addition, they are easy to handle, non-toxic and love to feed.

Here are the types of milk snakes that make great pets.

Top 20 Milk Snakes That Make Great Pets:

1. Eastern milk snake

The Eastern Milk Snake has a spotted pattern of gray and reddish brown. Its length ranges from 2 to 4 feet and is commonly found throughout the United States.

Snakes of this species have a spearhead pattern or brown arrowhead on their heads. These snakes are a good choice for beginners as they are easy to manage.

2. Black milk snake

The black milk snake develops from a black, red, yellow, or white juvenile to an entirely black or black-and-tan when mature. The species grows to a large variety of about 4 to 6 feet in length. You should be careful when picking up adults of this strain as they can be nervous at first.

3. Louisiana milk snake

The Louisiana Milk Snake is a slender snake, measuring at most 2 feet in length. It is generally small in size with black, white, and red bands twice the size of the other colors. The Louisiana Milk Snake’s snout can vary from white to black with reddish spots.

4. Central Plains milk snake

This is also a small variety of milk snake, growing to 2 feet at most. The species is so tiny that even the adult snake can only eat the tiny mice. It has narrow bands of black, red, and yellowish white.

5. Nelson’s milk snake

These are some of the most popular and colorful types of milk snakes. They come in a variety of color morphs, primarily of pale yellowish-white banding flanked by short and broad black banding and broad red banding. They have a slender body and grow to over 3 feet in length.

6. Honduran milk snake

The Honduran subspecies has a strong, stout body and can grow to 4 to 5 feet in length. It has wide bands of black, red, and orange-yellow; thus it is a colorful snake. Although the Honduran milk snake can be hardy and nervous, it is suitable for beginners.

7. Pale Milk Snake

The Pale Milk Snake is native to the northernmost regions. It was named for its color, which is a dusty white, never yellow.

This snake has small or absent black rings around the red areas that develop as saddles that don’t encircle its abdomen. It is one of the smaller subspecies of milk snakes, with the adults only growing to between 18 and 24 inches.

8. Mexican milk snake

The Mexican milk snakes are brightly colored with black and yellow bands against a red background. The adult snake will not exceed 30 inches.

9. Puebla milk snake

Although once rare, this subspecies is now widespread and bred in albino, apricot, and tangerine colors. The Pueblan milk snake grows to about 3 feet in length.

10. New Mexico milk snake

This species is highly sought after for its vibrant color pattern of white, red, and black rings. In addition, she is slender and one of the smaller varieties, only growing to 14 and 18 inches in length.

11. Sinaloan milk snake

The Sinaloan species are primarily red, although they can vary significantly in color. The snakes can be found in broad orange-red bands separated by short black bands. They are avid eaters that can grow to at least 4 feet long.

The Sinaloan Milk Snakes are affordable as they are widely available.

12. Red Milk Snake

Red Milk Snake is one of the most distinct and widespread milk snakes. It has a black and white muzzle with a red tip. Also, its back is mostly red, outlined by a narrow black line.

Red milk snakes are hearty eaters, and they grow to over 3 feet in length and will feed on adult mice once they hatch.

13. Stuart’s milk snake

This type of snakes can grow to between 3 and 4 feet in length. Stuart’s Milk Snakes are light colored with broad red bands and narrow black and white bands.

14. Andean milk snake

The Andean milk snake is one of the largest subspecies of milk snake, growing up to 6 feet in length. The snakes appear brilliantly colored with black, red, and yellow bands, with black speckles on each scale.

They are mainly found in the Andes of Venezuela and Colombia. The snakes are known to have a good appetite, with the adult snakes eating eggs, small mammals and other reptiles.

15. Blanchard’s milk snake

The Blanchard’s milk snake has a color pattern of black, red, or yellow bands of about the same width. Red is the dominant color, like yellow, and black stripes make up only a small percentage.

The adult grows to around 3 to 3.5 feet tall. It is considered a nocturnal eater and eats various animals such as reptiles, birds, rodents and invertebrates. It has a lifespan of around 15 years and is an easy to handle snake where it can be kept with other snakes as it will not attack them.

16. Dixon’s milk snake

This snake was named after Dr. James R. Dixon named. It has twenty rings on its body, red being the dominant color, broken ventrally by bands of black. The tail has five yellow rings and its head and snout are black. The adult snake is about 42 inches long. It feeds mainly on lizards, snakes, small rodents and birds.

The Dixon snake is not a great climber and likes to hide under itself. Therefore, you can choose a wide cage as opposed to a tall one. Additionally, use boulders and rocks to provide him with some hiding places to spend his days in deep sleep. You are also advised to touch the snake a day after feeding for your safety.

17. Guatemala milk snake

The Guatemala milk snake has red, yellow, and black stripes that make it look like deadly sea snakes. They are relatively small, growing to between 3 and 6 feet in length. However, they can be tamed and kept if properly cared for.

18. Jalisco milk snake

Native to Mexico, the Jalisco milk snake has a rumped head, red belly, and rings of red or yellow with smooth and shiny scales. It grows up to 4 feet long and has a lifespan of 15 to a maximum of 20 years. It is diurnal and should be enclosed in a well-lit aquarium with an escape-proof lid.

19. Utah milk snake

These snakes have a body pattern of three colors: red/orange, black, and yellow/white. They are exclusively nocturnal, being found mainly after dark in a variety of their habitat.

The adults grow to a length of 18 to 36 inches. The snakes feed on reptile eggs, lizards and rodents while others feed on other snakes.

20. Ecuadorian milk snake

This subspecies is mainly found in the regions of Ecuador and Panama. It is one of the largest subspecies of milk snakes and grows up to 148 cm.

It has yellow scales on its head and a short row of 10 to 18 wide dorsal rings. It has been known to eat a variety of snakes, small mammals, birds, eggs, lizards, invertebrates, and fish.

How to care for your milk snake

All milk snakes are easy to manage, requiring minimal maintenance throughout the week. They rarely strike, and their bite doesn’t hurt. However, they try to escape when they feel threatened.

You can start handling your snake a few days after bringing it home. Start with short daily sessions to build trust. Then be persistent and gentle until the snake becomes comfortable with the handling.

However, snakes can vomit their meal if handled immediately after eating. so you should avoid it. The snakes tend to wrap themselves around your arm.

Start unwrapping them at the back end as the head will feel stronger. Don’t leave gaps in your cage, as milk snakes can escape from even the smallest of spaces.

You should keep milk snakes separate as they can attack and feed on each other. Most milk snakes like to dig; They can therefore put fresh care litter or aspen shavings in their cages. The adult snakes need more room to move; Therefore, consider space when looking for a cage.

Milk snakes are cold-blooded animals and need low temperatures so they can thermoregulate their bodies. You should keep some skins in the cages to provide hiding spots so they can mimic the wild. Have a consistent feeding schedule for your milk snakes, providing them with mice or frozen and thawed food at least once or twice a week.

Selected image source: Pixabay

Choosing a milk snake as a pet can be difficult as there are many types of milk snakes to choose from. In fact, there are 24 milk snake subspecies, half of which are commonly found in pet stores. Known for their lively appearance and friendly demeanor, milk snakes make a fun pet snake.

Snake lovers looking for a visually striking pet will not be disappointed. Each milk snake subspecies offers pet owners a different set of color variations and patterns. The wide variety of milk snake morphs is just one of the many reasons these species are so popular.

Why Milk Snakes Make Great Pets

Milk snakes (Lampropeltis triangulum) are popular with novice and experienced snake owners alike. Their docile demeanor, manageable size, and adaptability make them well suited to being kept as pets. Grooming a milk snake is relatively low-maintenance because they don’t have strict temperature, humidity, or lighting requirements. This is not surprising as they are part of the Kingsnake genus, which is widely recommended as one of the best snakes for beginners.

Types of milk snakes

Despite their namesake, milk snakes have nothing to do with milk, cows, or anything like that. They are a species of kingsnakes, the New World colubrids, and part of the genus Lampropeltis. A milk snake’s size, coloration, and pattern vary depending on the geographic place of origin of the subspecies.

This non-venomous species has the widest geographic range of any land snake. They are found throughout the North American continent from South America to southern Canada. One reason milk snakes are so prominent in the pet trade is that there are 8 subspecies in the US alone!

Milk snakes are colorful and come in a variety of iridescent color combinations. Typical coloration includes three colors, which is why this species is sometimes referred to as the “tricolor.” Conditions such as albinism (as in the albino Nelson’s milk snake) create even more morphs to choose from.

Andean milk snake

Atlantic Central American milk snake

Black Milk Snake

Blanchard’s milk snake

Central Plains milk snake

Contant’s milk snake

Dixon’s milk snake

Eastern milk snake

Guatemalan milk snake

Honduran milk snake

Jalisco milk snake

Louisiana milk snake

Mexican milk snake

Nelson’s milk snake

Milk snake from New Mexico

Pacific Central American milk snake

Pale Milk Snake

Pueblan milk snake

Red Milk Snake

Sinaloan milk snake

Smith’s milk snake

Stuart’s milk snake

Utah milk snake

How big do milk snakes get?

Aside from their color and pattern, the biggest difference between milk snake species is their length. While most milk snakes are small (about 2 feet long), certain subspecies can average 4 or 5 feet long. The length of a milk snake varies by place of origin.

Unlike most other snake species, milk snakes are not sexually dimorphic. This means there is no difference in length or appearance between male and female snakes.

Are There Types of Milk Snakes That Are Venomous?

No, milk snakes are not poisonous. Unfortunately, their vibrant colors often lead them to be mistaken for coral snakes or copperheads. The similarity in pattern and coloration of a milk snake is no coincidence. This is a defense mechanism known as Batesian mimicry, in which one species takes on characteristics of another to ward off predators. Although useful in the wild, this successful copycat technique leads people to mistakenly kill these harmless and gentle reptiles.

The difference between milk snakes and coral snakes

The most common tricolor combination of a milk snake is red, black, and white. This leads to milk snakes often being misidentified as a venomous coral snake. To tell the difference between the two, pay attention to which ribbons are touching. Coral snakes have adjacent red and yellow bands, while milk snakes are red and black.

If you are in close proximity to a snake, the pupil shape can be an indication of whether or not a snake is venomous. All non-venomous snakes have round pupils, and venomous snakes have elongated pupils (similar to a cat’s). Coral snakes, however, are the only exception to this rule and are a venomous species of snake with round pupils.

The Difference Between Milk Snakes and Copperheads

The brown eastern milk snake is the most common species of milk snake confused with this venomous viper. Both snakes have black criss-crossing bands covering the snake’s back and sides. Copperheads have spots (also called “saddles”) in a distinct hourglass shape, while milksnakes have thick, rounded bands.

The easiest way to tell the difference between a milk snake and a copperhead is to look at its belly. A copperhead has an unmarked, creamy coloring, while a milk snake has black scales that look like a checkerboard.

What are you eating?

In the wild, milk snakes primarily eat rodents, although they will also eat other mammals, birds, and even other snakes. They are constrictors and obtain their prey by strangulation. Captive milk snakes will eat easily frozen and thawed food and have a fondness for mice.

Milk snakes don’t require a specific feeding schedule, but consistency is key. Feed the average adult milk snake once or twice a week, and a young milk snake slightly more frequently. Due to their different sizes, the exact amount to feed them will vary depending on the species of milk snake.

Choosing the right snake for you

When it comes to milk snakes, it’s hard to go wrong. Milk snakes are colorful, non-aggressive, and easy to care for. The only real and notable difference between the places is their length. The Black Milk Snake and Hondurans are the longer species and can grow to 4 feet (or longer) in length.

The average lifespan of the milk snake is about 12 years. Although this lifespan isn’t as long as some other snake breeds, prospective owners should consider purchasing a milk snake as a long-term commitment.

Be aware that milk snakes are cannibalistic and will eat their own kind. As such, it is highly recommended that milk snakes be kept in a separate enclosure. If you already own several species of snakes and want a new addition to your terrarium, this species would not be a good choice.

Milk snakes and king snakes are native to southern parts of Canada, the United States, and Central and South America. These snakes are beautiful, docile, and non-venomous. Milk snakes are a subspecies of 45 species of king snakes; There are 25 subspecies of milk snakes alone. These snakes are easy to keep and make a good beginner snake. They differ significantly in size, color and pattern. Many subspecies have striking, beautiful patterns, including some that have natural defenses, mimicking the red, black, and yellow streaks of venomous coral snakes. A key difference is that nonvenomous king and milk have black bands touching red bands while coral snakes have yellow bands touching red.

Species Overview Common Name: King Snake, Milk Snake Scientific Name: Lamproletis genus Adult Size: 36 to 48 inches long (average adult) Life Expectancy: 20 to 30 years

Behavior and Temperament of Kingsnake and Milk Snake

All species of kingsnakes are easy to handle once they become accustomed to them. They are low maintenance and require minimal care throughout the week.

This snake rarely strikes; It usually mistakes a finger for a prey item. A king or milk snake bite does not hurt. If he feels threatened, he will try to get away from you. It will also exude a musky odor from its anal glands (smelly but not harmful) or rattle the tip of its tail much like a rattlesnake would do as a warning.

After bringing a new snake home for a few days, you can start handling your snake. Be gentle and persistent, with short sessions daily to build confidence. It shouldn’t take too long for the snake to get used to the handling. Don’t touch snakes immediately after eating; it can cause them to vomit their meal.

These snakes are constrictors. They can try to wrap themselves around your arm, but they can’t harm you. To unwrap them, start at the tail end as their head tends to be stronger.

House your Kingsnake or Milk Snake

A secure cage is vital. King snakes are notorious for testing their enclosures and escaping the smallest of spaces. The enclosure requires a securely latched top. These snakes can sneak through tiny gaps that seem too small. Do not leave gaps, holes or thin breaks in the cage top.

King and milk snakes should be kept individually. Kingsnakes might eat other cagemates.

Hatchlings or the smaller New Mexico milk snake can live in a 10-gallon aquarium. However, medium-sized (36-inch) adult snakes will need a 20-gallon tank, and larger, adult-sized (60-inch) snakes would thrive in a larger enclosure, such as a 60-gallon tank. King and milk snakes are quite active and need space. Snakes that have room to stretch may also have fewer respiratory infections.

Several hiding places should be created: halves of bark, commercially available stone skins, fallen flowerpots, half coconut shells and even cardboard boxes can be used. To give the cage a natural look, you can incorporate rocks and branches into the cage.

You must completely clean the cage at least every 6 months. Between these overhauls, clean up stains or scoop out feces and clean the water bowl every day.

heat

Reptiles are cold-blooded creatures that must self-regulate their body temperature by moving between warmer and cooler spots in their habitat. Maintain a thermal gradient or temperature range in their enclosure of 70 to 85 F (21 to 28 C) during the day with a drop of 10 to 15 F (2 to 5 C) at night. There should be hiding places at each end of the gradient.

Most owners prefer under-tank heaters (placed under half of the tank) to provide the heat. Never use electric Hot Rocks; they can cause burns. If you are using an overhead heater, radiant heat sources such as ceramic radiant heaters are better than incandescent bulbs for nocturnal animals.

light

Because they are primarily nocturnal, they don’t need lighting as long as your room gets enough light to indicate the change between day and night. Most nocturnal animals do not require ultraviolet light, although a UVB (5.0) fluorescent light may be beneficial to aid in calcium absorption from their food.

humidity

King and milk snakes don’t need high humidity — 40 to 60 percent is sufficient. A hygrometer or moisture meter will help you check the moisture level. In most cases, a shallow bowl of water in the cage should be sufficient. They may benefit from extra moisture during molting. If you notice your snake entering a shedding phase (skin appears thin, eyes turn a milky blue color), lightly spray the cage or provide a humidity box. You can make a simple moisture box out of a covered plastic container, cut a hole in the lid big enough for the snake to climb in, and line it with moistened peat moss.

substrate

Substrate is the bedding or lining for the bottom of your pet’s cage. For new snakes, paper towels or butcher paper are ideal to make cleaning easier and allow you to monitor the droppings.

Various substrates that can be used include reptile carpet, astroturf, reptile bark, mulch, or aspen shavings (never use cedar, redwood, or pine). If shavings are used, make sure they are not ingested with the snake’s food.

Reptile rugs, or Astroturf, are the easiest, safest, and most economical option. It is washable and reusable. You can feed the snake on this surface without worrying about the snake eating the substrate and you can finish cutting several pieces for the cage if it gets dirty.

food and water

King and milk snakes are fed mice or baby rats. Typically, feed the snake the size of a mouse, which is roughly the width of the snake at its widest point (excluding the head). Feed hatchlings and hatchlings (subadult) twice a week. Adults can be fed adult mice (or weaned rats) once a week. If the snake is too lean (body not round, showing ribs or backbone), feed it twice a week. Many king and milk snakes tend to eat less in the fall and winter.

As with other pet snakes, feed pre-killed mice (usually frozen from a pet supply source) to ensure the prey cannot harm the snake. Thaw frozen mice to room temperature and feed them in a separate feeding cage (without substrate) or their cage if it has a secure floor.

Since snakes often defecate in water, clean the bowl daily and refresh with fresh, filtered water.

Common Health Problems

The biggest threat to a pet king snake or milk snake is respiratory infection. These snakes can catch colds or pneumonia, often caused by a problem with the temperature in the cage. Symptoms may include blisters or gurgling in the mouth, wheezing, or mucus around the nose.

If you notice food being thrown up in the cage, it may be because you touched the snake too soon after feeding. It’s not necessarily a sign of illness, although it can be. Other reasons for regurgitating food: The food offered was too big or the enclosure is too cool. If the regurgitation recurs, take the snake to an exotics veterinarian.

Choose your Kingsnake or Milk Snake

Milk snakes and king snakes breed fairly easily in captivity, so finding a captive bred specimen should be relatively easy. You can find reputable local breeders at a reptile show or through a recommendation from another snake owner or an exotics vet. Make sure your snake is already a good eater of pre-killed mice. When in doubt, ask for a demonstration of your snake feeding.

Expect to pay anywhere from $30 to $200 depending on the morph (color), strain rarity, and age. Hatchlings usually cost less as adults are proven eaters and thrive.

Signs of a healthy snake are a firm, rounded body; no discharge from the nose; no dust spots on the snake’s body (mites); no open-mouth breathing or wheezing; The inside of the mouth looks pink (not red or cheesy); shiny, smooth skin (no sores or scabs), clean fecal opening (venting), and movement without tremors.

A new snake may not be tame, but should settle down reasonably well with gentle handling. A desperate snake waves its body in the air trying to escape. Most king and milk snakes will calm down after a while and gently wrap themselves around your hands.

Similar species to Kingsnakes and Milk Snakes

If you’re interested in king or milk snakes, check out related species:

Otherwise, check out other types of reptiles and amphibians that can be your new pet.

The Mexican milk snake has similar characteristics and nearly identical care requirements to the Sinaloan and Nelson milk snake. The biggest difference is in tank size, as the Mexican tends to be the smaller of these similar species and therefore requires a smaller habitat. It’s not uncommon for owners to find that their Mexican milk snake has been misidentified.

Although it can take time to tame a milk snake to handle, they are relatively docile and can make a suitable pet for first-time snake owners, with the Mexican being ideal for those with limited space. Read on for more information on caring for your Mexican milk snake.

Fast facts on Mexican milk snakes

Species Name: Lampropeltis Triangulum Annulata Common Name: Mexican Milk Snake Care Level: Low Lifespan: 20 years Adult Size: 30 inches Diet: Mice, occasionally rats Minimum Tank Size: 30 x 18 x 18 inches Temperature and Humidity: 70° – 90° F, ambient humidity

Are Mexican Milk Snakes Good Pets?

Milk snakes are considered good pets because they are smaller and require a minimally sized tank compared to other exotic snakes. They have no specific humidity requirements, and the only real habitat requirement is temperature, but even that is easily manageable.

They are non-toxic and will become used to handling over time. You are lively and attractive. They are carnivores and eat mice, but that’s easy to handle too. They can make a good beginner snake and are also suitable for experienced owners.

Looks

Milk snakes are known for their red and yellow, or milk color. Their bodies usually have thick red bands twice the size of black and milky bands.

The Mexican variety is slightly thicker than other milk snakes, but will only grow to a maximum length of 30 inches or 2.5 feet, with the majority only reaching 1.5 feet in length. Females are usually slightly larger than males, as is common with snakes.

How to take care of Mexican milk snakes

Considered a reasonable choice for novice growers, the Mexican milk snake has low to moderate grooming requirements. You must provide your pet with the following habitat and conditions.

Habitat, tank conditions and setup

tank

Although it may be possible to keep one in a smaller tank, you should provide a 20-gallon tank for adult Mexican kingsnakes. This is smaller than recommended for most other species as the Mexican is a smaller snake. However, the more space you can provide, the better the snake will thrive.

Although large glass tanks are available, wooden tanks are preferred as they retain heat better.

Offer hiding spots using items like upturned coconut shells or half tree trunks. Flower pots can also be suitable, and it is possible to buy commercially available skins made of stone and other materials. Add stones and branches for a more natural decor.

You should spot clean the tank every day. That means removing feces and other dirt. You must also completely clean the tank every 4-6 weeks by removing all items and cleaning them and the tank before replacing them.

lighting

Milk snakes are nocturnal and if the house lights are on at night and the tank has daylight during the day, lighting in the tank is not essential. However, adding a simple LED light to the cage can improve your snake’s living space and make it easier for them to distinguish between day and night.

heating

As with all reptiles, it’s a good idea to implement a thermal gradient across the tank. For the milk snake, the cooler end of the tank should be around 70°F and the hotter end, or basking area, around 85°F. Temperatures should not exceed 90°F.

The milk snake has no special requirements when it comes to humidity, but care should be taken to ensure that the humidity does not rise too much.

substrate

Aspen is a popular substrate for this species. Alternatively, you can make your own mix of potting soil and sand.

Tank Recommendations Tank Type: 20-gallon wooden vario Lighting: None required Heating: Heat mat or ceramic bulb Best Substrate: Aspen

Feed your Mexican milk snake

The Mexican milk snake is actually an easy snake to feed. They eat mice, and some larger milk snakes will occasionally eat rats, but little else is required other than dusting the mice before feeding. Young Mexican milk snakes eat little fingers on funnel. Adults eat adult mice. This species rarely attains a size large enough to eat rats. Make sure the mice are dusted with a calcium supplement when feeding young snakes, and expect them to feed once or twice a week.

Diet Summary Fruits: 0% of diet Insects: 0% of diet Meat: 100% of diet – small/medium sized mice Supplements Required: Calcium dust for young snakes

Keep your Mexican milk snake healthy

The Mexican is considered a hardy breed that will survive well in captivity, but there are a few conditions to which this small species of milk snake is susceptible.

Common Health Problems

Mouth rot – This usually occurs after an injury to the mouth and when bacteria infect the injury. A yellow substance covers the injury and eventually breaks down the tissue.

– This usually occurs after an injury to the mouth and when bacteria infect the injury. A yellow substance covers the injury and eventually breaks down the tissue. Dry Skin – While humidity levels don’t need to be monitored too closely, if the moisture level in your snake’s tank is too low, it can have a difficult time properly and fully shedding. Visit a vet or create your own hydration tank.

– While humidity doesn’t need to be monitored too closely, if the moisture level in your snake’s tank is too low, it can be difficult to shed properly and completely. Visit a vet or create your own hydration tank. Respiratory Tract Infections – Regular and excessive fluctuations in temperature and humidity can lead to upper respiratory tract infections. Infections such as pneumonia can be life-threatening and require treatment with antibiotics.

life span

Expect a captive-bred milk snake to live a minimum of 12 years and a maximum of 20 years.

breed

Mexican milk snakes should normally be kept separate and should only be kept together if you plan to breed them.

The female must be fully mature and both must be free of genetic diseases and conditions.

This species will breed freely if kept together and you should not need to do anything special other than place them in the same tank.

Provide a nesting box and use a material like moss to keep the box moist and moist. Incubate the eggs at 84º F. It takes about 2 months for the eggs to start hatching and once the first baby breaks free, the others are encouraged to follow suit.

Are Mexican Milk Snakes Friendly? Our handling instructions

The milk snake can be a little nervous and shy as a baby. They may try to scare you off if they perceive you as a threat, but they are very unlikely to bite.

If this is your first time getting a Mexican milk snake, allow them 1-2 weeks to acclimate to their new environment before handling them.

Make sure you don’t hold the snake too high off the ground as it is more active than some other species when handled.

Shedding & Brumation: What to Expect

The milk snake sheds as it grows and outgrows its existing skin, so it is more common in babies than adults. Young snakes can shed every month, while adults only shed about every three months.

Although they brumate in the wild, captive milk snakes don’t need to brumate unless you want them to. This can be encouraged prior to breeding.

How much do Mexican milk snakes cost?

Mexican milk snakes are small and popular pet snakes with both experienced and novice owners. They also breed easily. This combination means the milk snake is inexpensive, typically costing between $100 and $200 for a young snake.

Summary of Care Guide

advantages

Disadvantages

Conclusion

The Mexican milk snake is one of dozens of species of milk snake and one of three very similar species. However, it is the smallest of these related species, typically only growing to a length of 30 inches. They are docile as adults, easy to handle and only require a relatively small terrarium to be comfortable. These small snakes are popular pets with experienced and novice handlers alike, they are attractive and fun to hold.

Selected image source: eptiles4all, Shutterstock