Strap Wrap For Dog Harness? Top Answer Update

pull on the leash

Teaching your dog or puppy to walk on a loose leash might be one of the most challenging behaviors to work on. You have to be interesting enough to get your dog’s attention, despite what might keep them away. And there’s the thorny fact that since dogs have four legs and we only have two, we’re walking too slowly.

Note that there is a difference between walking on a slack leash and walking with your heel. A heel tells your dog to walk right next to your leg and is something that competitive obedience teams work for years to perfect. In tight areas like construction sites you may need a heel, but for the most part your dog just doesn’t need to pull. The following instructions are for walking on a loose leash, not heels.

Also remember that it is your dog’s walk. Let him sniff, stop, be curious. It’s mentally stimulating, tiring and a lot more fun for your dog!

gear

“No-pull” straps can make training easier and unlike choke, prong, or electronic collars, they don’t cause pain or unintended consequences. A “no-pull” harness has a ring at the front or at the front and the back. Use the front ring. However, if your dog is particularly strong, you can use two leashes or a double clip leash attached to each ring. Remember that while these harnesses make training your dog easier, they do not replace training.

Your Dog’s Friend sells our favorite harnesses and double leads; So if you’re in the Rockville, MD area, contact us to set up an appointment to try it out.

Hold your leash

Place your palm in the loop with your thumb facing out. Close your hand. When you want to tighten the line, use your other hand to tuck the excess into your line without making it too tight. This makes it easy to give your dog more leash by opening your leash hand so he can sniff.

Place your leash hand firmly against your abdomen and hold it there. This allows you to use the superior strength in your core and legs (compared to your arms) to keep you stable and secure. If you have a very strong dog, you may need to keep both hands on the leash at your stomach. Running your leash this way will give you a lot more stability so you won’t be pulled off your feet and your dog will know how much leash he has when walking. Some people find it helpful to tie knots in the line to have something extra to hold on to.

Conversely, if your arm is outstretched and the leash is moving all over the place, you are not stable and your dog never knows where you are. Or if you keep your leash around your wrist, you could break your wrist if your dog takes off.

When we are anxious on walks, we tend to hold a tight, short leash or pull on the leash. Not. This tells your dog there is something to worry about and it doesn’t teach him anything.

where to practice

Before working on any of the following options, it’s important to understand that you can’t just go about your regular walk and expect instant results. Start your workout indoors, then outside in your yard, driveway, or quiet street. If leash walking isn’t 100% reliable without distraction, you can’t expect it to be reliable with distraction. You will be more successful if you invest the time in training in non-distracting environments first.

Leash walking options

There are many different ways to teach polite leash walking. Every trainer has a favorite and a slightly different way of teaching the same methods themselves. Here are just some of the options.

Standing in place, hold the leash and clicker (or you can use a verbal marker) in your right hand and 10-15 pea-sized treats in your left. Click when your dog is next to or slightly behind your side. This placement is designed to stop your dog before he starts pulling. Repeat this several times until your dog quickly walks into the zone next to you. Then move – 1 step, click, treat. If your dog “gets it”, 2 steps, click, treat. Then, 3. Have a rhythm to your step, click, handle. If your dog is constantly in the zone, you can make your treats more random. However, don’t rush to this step and be prepared to return to a more consistent pattern. When your dog pulls to the end of the leash stop, with the leash stabilized at your belly, wait for him to turn around and step back at an angle. start again

Teach your dog the “1-2-3” game. Place a treat in your fist and place your hand in front of your dog’s snout. Say 3 and open your hand to give your dog a treat. Repeat at least five times. Say 2-3 and on 3 give your dog a treat. Repeat this at least five times. Say 1-2-3 and at 3, treat your dog to the seam of your pants. Start walking backwards; Repeat 1-2-3, treat. Then continue with 1-2-3, treat. Repeat several times in an even rhythm. Gradually increase the time between counts.

J Walking is one way to teach your dog to keep the leash loose when he moves with you. Stay close enough that your dog is facing you to make the leash a J-shape. Give your dog as many treats as possible in 30 seconds. Step back 2 steps and treat if your dog follows you; 2 steps to the side and treats if your dog follows you; then 2 steps forward and treat the hem of your pants while your dog follows. Repeat several times. Your dog’s leash may cross at 2, but since the treats are delivered on the other side, your dog will correct himself.

If your dog already knows how to aim, you can use Touch to walk. Keeping your hand down the whole time while walking is probably not a good idea, but you can use it to bring your dog back to your side. For smaller dogs there are retractable “clicksticks” that are long enough to reach your dog. You can train your dog to touch the end of your stick instead of your hand.

Whatever method you use, if your dog walks you without pulling, give him treats regularly to reinforce his good behavior. Random treats will strengthen even a trained dog and bring a lot at the soccer game or street festival. For smaller dogs, you can hold a wooden spoon or a squeeze tube with something soft but thick, like peanut butter, so you don’t have to bend down.

Once your dog has learned to walk politely on a leash, try varying your speed and turning in different directions during the walk. Talk to your dog and use your voice and body language to encourage him to follow your movements. DO NOT shake it around. Reward your dog for staying with you. You can even weave around trees and practice skills and tricks during walks. Being unpredictable will not only teach your dog to be attentive, you’ll both have a good time.

Whatever method you use, if your dog walks you without pulling, give him treats regularly to reinforce his good behavior. Random treats will strengthen even a trained dog and bring a lot at the soccer game or street festival. For smaller dogs, you can hold a wooden spoon or a squeeze tube with something soft but thick, like peanut butter, so you don’t have to bend down.

Once your dog has learned to walk politely on a leash, try varying your speed and turning in different directions during the walk. Talk to your dog and use your voice and body language to encourage him to follow your movements. DO NOT shake it around. Reward your dog for staying with you. You can even weave around trees and practice skills and tricks during walks. Being unpredictable will not only teach your dog to be attentive, you’ll both have a good time.

drag your dog

Please don’t pull your dog back when you go for a walk.

Pulling your dog back can teach your dog that what he’s being yanked from is scary. It makes him physically uncomfortable and can cause him to bark and tumble while on a leash to keep “that creepy thing” away.

Dogs that are already barking and pouncing are usually afraid of various things around them, and looking aggressive is their way of dealing with that. By pulling on your dog, you are punishing him for being scared. And when your dog wears a choke, barbed, or electronic collar, you also cause pain, and in your dog’s mind, that pain is related to everything he sees at that moment – children, other dogs, people, cars, etc.

When you pull your dog back, your dog is actually pulling harder in the opposite direction.

Snatching doesn’t teach your dog what you want him to do.

Important points to remember

Walking on a loose leash is all your dog needs most of the time. Let your dog run ahead as long as he doesn’t pull. If your dog is allowed time to “be a dog” and take in the world, he will be happier and more tired after every walk. If you need to move on, use a cue like “let’s go” instead of pulling him away.

Hold your dog’s leash in your hand, not your wrist, and let your arm rest against your body instead of moving. This technique will make you more stable and let your dog know where you are. Tie knots in your line to keep your hand from slipping.

Consider having your dog fitted with a “no-pull” harness. These harnesses make it easier for your dog to walk on a loose leash. In addition, unlike choke, prong or electronic collars, they do not cause pain or unintended consequences.

Before you can expect your dog to stop pulling, you must stop pulling. By pulling and pulling on your dog’s leash, you are teaching your dog to pull harder in the opposite direction. Instead, say your dog’s name to get his attention. Invite him to move towards you by taking a few quick backward steps while using Happy Talk. Teaching your dog to walk on a loose leash should feel more like a game.

must stop pulling. By pulling and pulling on your dog’s leash, you are teaching your dog to pull harder in the opposite direction. Instead, say your dog’s name to get his attention. Invite him to move towards you by taking a few quick backward steps while using Happy Talk. Teaching your dog to walk on a loose leash should feel more like a game. There are several ways to train your dog to walk on a loose leash. Use what is easiest for you and your dog. Practice indoors and in non-distracting environments first. And don’t forget to treat your dog regularly, even if he’s trained, so he doesn’t pull.

Avoid approaching another dog directly. In the canine world, this behavior is considered rude or even threatening. However, we put our dogs in this position all the time. There is no rule that you have to walk on sidewalks, streets or paths. If there is an open area, go there, cross the street, or walk in an arc around the other dog instead of creating an awkward and challenging situation.

Being unpredictable in your movements will help your dog learn to focus on you and make walks more fun. So go slow, then fast, turn around, weave around trees or poles, do some exercises or tricks and have fun!

For more help with walking a reactive dog, see our handout on dog-reactive dogs. For ideas on walking a dog chasing squirrels, joggers, bicycles, etc., see our article on dogs that hunt.

resources

The webinar, Basics of Dog Training – Walking on a Slack Leash and Coming on Demand, was presented by Oscar Winning Behavior’s Amie Glasgow. It can be found on the Your Dog’s Friend YouTube channel at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xXF4582HiRA

There are some good videos on leash walking including 300 Pecks – Clicker Training Loose-Leash Walking (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DayHrhoSJZc) and Helix Fairweather’s method, similar to J Walking with a high rate of reinforcement starting with https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CSmOOcELgxU (There are three videos in this series.) Remember that every trainer teaches loose leash walking a little differently.

The Whole Dog Journal has an e-book called Walking Your Dog which is about 25 pages with illustrations. Go to http://www.whole-dog-journal.com/ebooks/-20583-1.html

If you are ordering dog toys, books or anything else online, please remember that Your Dog’s Friend is included in the Amazon Smile program. Choose your dog’s friend at www.smile.amazon.com and start shopping. We receive a donation for every purchase you make through Amazon Smile.

This material is not intended as a substitute for professional help in dealing with dogs with intense or potentially dangerous behavior problems. Consider consulting a positive reinforcement trainer or veterinary behaviorist for situations that you find dangerous or that you don’t feel equipped to deal with. A list of recommended trainers and behaviorists can be found on our website at https://yourdogsfriend.org/we-recommend/positive-trainers/.

Still need help?

You can subscribe to the alerts list for any of our leash walking courses at the bottom of these course pages. Go to https://yourdogsfriend.org/beyond-foundation-classes/ to find the classes.

Your Dog’s Friend is a 501-c3 non-profit organization that educates and supports dog parents. We offer behavioral and training advice; Sponsor FREE webinars on a variety of topics; Conduct positive dog training, behavioral, and physical education classes; Referring dog parents to trainers, dog walkers and other professionals; and send out an e-newsletter with articles, resources, and announcements.

Dogs that pull on the leash are one of the most common dog training problems that dog owners face. And unfortunately, many unknowing dog parents cause damage and injuries to their dog’s neck and delicate tracheal areas that can be costly or sometimes even fatal.

If you’ve ever had neck or back pain, you can understand. Most people feel the effects throughout their body, and chronic pain can easily make you feel 10 to 20 years older.

Why is that? The neck and cervical spine are one of the most important energy channels in the body. When the flow of energy between the head and neck is disrupted or restricted, a whole range of problems can arise, from lameness to skin problems to allergies and even cancer.

Most people don’t realize that COLLARS CAN CAUSE SO MANY PROBLEMS.

3 easy ways to protect your dog from injury

Get a harness as soon as possible! Harnesses do not put unnecessary pressure on a dog’s throat and windpipe. Even if a dog pulls while wearing a harness, it will not hurt him or her or cause lifelong damage. If your dog is a serious puller, invest in the right exercise equipment to teach him how to walk properly. There are many trapeze trainers out there. One of these is the PugLife harness, which teaches your dog to stop pulling and see you as the pack leader. AVOID CHOKE CHAINS – Many will tell you that choke chains are the best way to teach your dog not to pull. But this method is very harmful to your dog’s throat and can sometimes be fatal. Is it worth the risk? Would you like to be choked every time you’ve done something that comes naturally to you like pulling is natural to a dog? Teach your dog to walk correctly. Get the right tools to make it easier and faster, or just invest the extra time.

Instead of using collars to control your dog, use it to put a tag with your phone number and address in case your best friend goes missing.

Treat your best friend with love and kindness. A dog will give you unconditional love and happiness for years – make sure you take good care of their health and well-being by raising them in a kind and humane manner.

You expect your dog to jump up when he sees you unplug his harness and leash. It means you’re going to take them on a great adventure, and all dogs love to go for a walk, right? But what happens when your dog runs and hides instead of eagerly waiting for you to hook him up? Or maybe they crouch and tuck their tails between their legs. They might even become aggressive and try to pinch the hand holding the dishes.

Whatever his behavior, your dog is making it clear that he hates his harness. You can’t read their minds, but for your sanity and your dog’s well-being, it’s time to get to the bottom of the problem. Put yourself in their paws and consider whether any of these explanations (or more) make sense as to why your dog hates his harness.

1. They don’t like it when things get over their heads.

Some dogs panic at the thought of a foreign object slipping over their head or around their neck. It’s like being tied up and trapped by something that feels completely unnatural.

People are used to putting things around their heads out of necessity. Unless you commit to a life of only wearing button-down shirts, you must be okay with pulling clothes over your head. Dogs, on the other hand, come from a long line of natural wild animals. They don’t like the feeling of being tied up and their head is a sensitive area. With a harness over their head, they feel uncomfortably vulnerable.

If your dog is okay with wearing his harness once it’s on, but resists while you’re trying to get it on her body, it may have to do with having it go over her head. A simple solution is to find a harness that can be put on without going over the dog’s head. A harness that dogs have to climb into is a good option.

2. They’re not used to having hands near their face.

Imagine a person walking towards you and flapping their hands around your face. They’re not aggressive, but it’s enough to freak you out. Your dog might have a similar feeling when your hands come close to their face. The air directly around her head is her personal space, and she doesn’t appreciate having those boundaries crossed — even if it’s by her favorite person.

Being comfortable with human hands around their heads is something dogs need to be taught. It’s an inevitable part of their lives. They need their ears cleaned and their teeth brushed, and all that involves tolerating hands near their face. And don’t forget that it’s a lot harder to put on a collar or harness when your dog is doing everything it can to stay away from you.

Finding a harness that avoids the head area as much as possible is a short-term fix, but it won’t help your pup get over his core problem. Starting puppies early by calmly touching their ears and lips is an important part of puppy socialization. But if your adult dog is already past that point, you can use desensitizing conditioning to make him feel more comfortable. Find the line between where your dog is comfortable and where he isn’t, and slowly move closer to it. You can put peanut butter on your fingers for encouragement, but don’t move too fast. The key is to do it in increments and never move closer until your dog is completely comfortable with your current distance.

3. Harness does not fit properly or is generally uncomfortable.

Before committing to a purchase, look for the harness size chart. It shouldn’t be difficult to find and will give you size suggestions based on the dog’s chest and neck measurements and weight. However, it is important to remember that these measurements are recommendations, not rules. You still need to adjust the straps for the right fit. If the harness is not properly fitted, it can chafe, cut into the skin or put uncomfortable pressure on the body. If your dog knows his harness is uncomfortable, he won’t want to wear it.

Even if the harness fits well, sometimes the design isn’t right for your dog. Going for the cheapest harness you can find is practically a guarantee that your dog will find it uncomfortable. They want something with thicker, padded straps that won’t chafe or dig into their bodies. Mesh harnesses are usually comfortable, and you want multiple adjustment points to fit the harness around each part of your dog’s body. You should also test it and look for any sagging around the chest. The harness should hardly move even if your dog pulls on the leash.

4. You are allergic to the tableware material.

Dogs can be allergic to a long list of materials used to make harnesses, including nylon, certain types of metal, and the chemicals used to dye them. If your dog is allergic to their harness, it should be easy to confirm. Check the areas where your skin comes in contact with the material, paying particular attention to the sensitive skin in your armpits and around your stomach. There is also a possibility of symptoms appearing in other areas where the dishes never touch. The face and groin are the most common. Signs of an allergic reaction include bald patches, blister-like lesions, hives, or obsessively licking a specific area.

You may have your suspicions, but the only way to confirm a dog is allergic to their harness is to speak to a veterinarian. You will most likely collect a skin scraping to rule out the possibility of mites or a yeast infection. wag! says,

“A thorough medical history of your dog’s health and a timeline of symptoms may be more helpful in finding an accurate diagnosis. Many doctors try to diagnose which allergen is causing the reaction by removing suspected allergens from the environment.”

In the meantime, research what material your current harness is made of and buy something else.

5. They made a negative association with wearing the harness.

Dogs don’t have the cognitive ability to remember specific details of a situation, but that doesn’t mean they don’t remember things their own way. When something bad happens to you, it’s like certain images are burned into your mind. You remember exactly what you wore, the exact words that were said, and sometimes random details that stick with you for years. Your dog cannot do this, but it can evoke positive and negative associations.

When it comes to the harness, most dogs have positive associations. Being hooked into a harness means they’re going for a walk, and for most dogs, that’s a good thing. In her mind, her harness is tantamount to a walk, and so the harness is something to be happy about. Unfortunately, this is not always the case.

It’s also easy for dogs to make negative associations with their harness. They still love to go for walks, but if you accidentally pinch their skin while putting on their harness, they might start associating their harness with that brief second of pain. The association may not even be directly related to the dishes. It could be that they accidentally wore it when attacked by another dog or startled by a motorbike. They don’t remember the exact circumstances of the incident, but they do know that their harness was involved in a situation that made them afraid. This negative association means they now associate their dishes with something bad. The only way to help them over that hump is through desensitization conditioning.

6. They don’t like to leave the house.

Leaving the house for a daily walk, run, hike, or other adventure is the best part of the day for most dogs, but not every dog. Some dogs prefer to be couch potatoes, and they know that putting on the harness is the first step in getting out of their comfort zone. Their behavior could be due to the simple fact that they are tired and don’t feel like walking, and it can also be a reaction to fear. Andrea Gordon from Holidays4Dogs writes:

“Thunderstorms, loud traffic, joggers, scarecrows, prams; There are several stressors that can cause a dog to run home tail-tucked and never want to leave the house again – especially in puppies when they are going through their anxiety phase, which is why it is very important to manage a young puppy’s environment carefully lest he be startled.”

Whether your dog is tired or anxious, you should speak to a professional. It’s normal for any dog ​​to get tired if they’ve already had a lot of stimulation that day, but keeping your pooch on the couch could also be a medical issue. And if you think they don’t like their harness because they’re afraid of going for a walk, you need a trainer to help them overcome their fear.

If any of these explanations fit what is going on with your dog, start addressing the problem immediately. Remember that there is always a reason for your dog’s behavior. They are trying to tell you something and it is up to you to translate the message. Your life will be easier and less stressful when you find out why your dog hates his harness.

Sources: Holidays4Dogs, Wag!, Positive Forum

Featured photo by Shane Rounce on Unsplash

If you have pets — especially ones that are prone to problems — it’s a good idea to keep your first aid kit on hand to deal with minor illnesses and injuries. One of the staples of any home first aid kit is the triple antibiotic ointment, also known as Neosporin. You may have already used this product for cuts and scrapes on your human family members and wondered if Neosporin is safe and effective for dogs.

Using a small amount of Neosporin on your dog may be okay if your vet recommends it, but there are a few important caveats. Before you break out a new tube for that minor injury, make sure you understand the potential risks of using Neosporin on a dog and are aware of the alternatives to Neosporin that may be better options for your pet first aid kit are.

What is Neosporin?

Neosporin is a topical antibiotic ointment that is available over the counter at most human pharmacies. The ointment contains three antibiotics: neomycin sulfate, polymixin B sulfate, and bacitracin zinc, typically petroleum-based. These antibiotics make the ointment effective against many common bacteria, but it does not treat other infectious agents such as viruses, fungi, or parasites. However, increased bacterial resistance is a growing problem with the widespread use of topical antibiotics (1). Some studies also show that long-term use of neomycin can lead to hearing loss (2). Because it is an over-the-counter product, Neosporin is not reviewed or regulated by the FDA.

Can you give Neosporin to a dog?

Neosporin can be used topically in dogs, just like in humans, to treat minor cuts and scrapes. However, it is best to consult your veterinarian before using over-the-counter human medication on your dog. Applying a light layer to the affected area can help prevent infection and promote faster wound healing. However, it is for external use only (on the dog’s skin) and should only be applied to areas where the dog cannot lick it off. This is because Neosporin is not safe for dogs to consume and can cause nasty gastrointestinal side effects if ingested (more on that in a moment). Since you can’t completely stop your dog from licking it, consider an alternative to Neosporin for dogs. Neosporin should never be used in the ears, eyes, or mouth.

Neosporin can be good to have on hand in a pinch, but it’s not intended for pets and shouldn’t be used often. There are more suitable products specifically designed for pets. It should not be used to treat large or deep wounds or applied to large areas of the body. If your pet’s cut or scrape is swollen, red, painful, or has a discharge, your dog should be evaluated by a veterinarian and not treated at home. You should also seek veterinary care if your pet’s cut doesn’t improve within a few days of using Neosporin.

Is Neosporin Safe for Dogs?

Applied to the skin in small amounts, Neosporin is generally safe for dogs. However, some dogs can develop contact dermatitis — a localized inflammatory condition at the site where the ointment was applied. In this case, gently wipe off any remnants of the ointment with a warm washcloth and stop using Neosporin. If irritation does not improve within 24 hours, contact your veterinarian for further treatment.

If your vet gives you the green light to use Neosporin on your dog, it should only be used topically on your dog’s skin and may not be safe for your dog if used improperly. It should not be used in the ear canal as it can damage the eardrum and make existing ear infections worse. It’s also important to note that Neosporin is not the same as a triple antibiotic eye ointment and should never be used on your pet’s eyes. Eye problems can quickly worsen. So if your pet has eye problems, it’s best to see your vet right away rather than trying to treat the problem at home.

Neosporin should also not be given orally to your dog. Not only is this ineffective, but it can also cause digestive upset in your dog if given in large amounts. If you’re using Neosporin topically, make sure you only apply it to areas your dog can’t reach. Alternatively, you can lightly cover the area (a t-shirt or sock works great for this!) or use an Elizabethan collar — or dog cone alternative — to prevent your dog from licking the area. Licking the area not only allows your dog to ingest the ointment, it can also make the cut or scrape you’re treating worse by introducing extra bacteria and moisture from your dog’s mouth into the area.

Side Effects of Neosporin in Dogs

When using Neosporin, it is important to be aware of possible side effects such as allergic reactions or contact dermatitis. Signs of an allergic reaction may include red, scaly, or itchy skin. More serious side effects are rare but can include:

vomiting or diarrhea if ingested

Irritation when applied to eyes

Hearing loss, infection and irritation when used in the ears

development of resistant infections

Neosporin should not be used in combination with other topical medications unless directed to do so by your veterinarian. Since Neosporin is only used topically, there is little risk that it will interact with medications your pet takes by mouth.

Neosporin alternatives for dogs

Other topical antibacterial treatments available over the counter include silver sulfadiazine (SSD) ointment, bacitracin ointment, and polysporin ointment. However, there are topical antibacterial products formulated specifically for dogs, such as Silver Honey, Vetricyn, and Sulfodene, that can be purchased over the counter at pet stores or your vet clinic.

These products should only be used topically on small areas of skin and not on large or deep wounds. If the scrape or cut being treated does not improve within 24-48 hours, contact your veterinarian for further treatment.

Over-the-counter topical products should not be used on significant injuries and are not a substitute for proper veterinary care. If your pet has a large or deep wound or a widespread skin infection, it is best to contact your veterinarian.

He or she may prescribe oral antibiotics, medicated shampoos, a stronger topical ointment, or other targeted treatments to help your dog heal faster. For extensive or severe skin infections and wounds, topical therapy could be used in combination with oral antibiotics.

Editorial Credit for Featured Image: ZikG / Shutterstock.com

Pallet strapping or banding is the process of using a metal or plastic strap to unify, palletize, or bundle products. Strapping is used in a variety of industries, from shipping large industrial equipment and lumber to strengthening boxes at e-commerce fulfillment centers. Because of this, there are many qualities and types of materials on the market today.

The strapping is done either manually with a hand tool or automatically with a strapping machine. In both cases, a belt or band is passed around the product and pulled tight. A fastening process then secures the ends of the strap around the product and the excess material is removed.

Strapping material is available in many different strengths with specific grades and classifications. It is important to understand these qualities and how they can influence your choice of materials when choosing your packaging. How your product is transported affects the rating system and the materials used. The two organizations that rate strapping are the American Association of Railroads and ASTM International. While ratings may be similar, it’s important to understand that the designations are not interchangeable.

The differences in 4 common types of strapping materials

steel strip materials

Steel is the oldest type of strapping on the market. You may recall seeing it on flatbeds going down the freeways, often carrying very heavy and large loads. It has high tensile strength and is available in many widths and thicknesses to suit almost any application. Steel strip material is most commonly used when high strength and minimal elongation are required.

Steel strip materials are ideal for applications such as transporting extremely heavy and stable loads such as sheet metal.

Polypropylene strapping material

Polypropylene is economical and is made from a plastic resin blend and does not offer the same strength as steel or polyester. Like other strapping materials, it is available in many widths, gauges, and polymer variations, and is commonly used in arch strapping machines or table strapping applications. Polypropylene strapping material has a certain amount of elongation, which means the material can stretch some, but has an unrecoverable dead stretch and does not recover as well as polyester.

Polypropylene strapping is ideal for light to medium applications such as unifying, palletizing and bundling.

Polyester strapping materials

Polyester is stiffer than polypropylene and is often used in place of steel. It has excellent tension holding and recovery properties that allow loads to absorb shock without breaking straps. Polyester is often preferred because it is made from recycled plastics. Polyester is generally identified by its green color, although it can be available in other colors as well. Polyester strapping is not only environmentally friendly, but also safer than steel.

Polyester strapping is ideal for applications that require the strength and durability of steel, but users prefer a lighter, safer and more cost-effective option with even greater tensile strength. In addition, polyester strapping can be applied with battery-powered, cordless tools, which not only reduces the time required to apply straps, but also minimizes exposure to safety hazards common with steel strapping.

Woven strapping materials

Woven strapping is a great alternative to steel and can often handle larger and heavier loads than polyester. Woven strapping materials are made from polyester cords that are woven together to provide excellent tensile strength while remaining lightweight and secure.

Woven strapping materials are ideal for applications involving large and heavy loads or in situations where the company prefers not to use steel due to the risk of injury during application or removal. Examples of common cargoes where woven strapping materials are used are transporting large heavy equipment or bundles of wood straight from the lumber yard.

Don’t get caught by this rule

Dog owners who walk their pooch in a harness instead of a collar can face a hefty fine or even jail time.

It is against the law for owners to fail to put their name and address on their dog’s collar when in public, and those found violating this rule risk severe punishment.

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The law also applies when owners switch from a collar to a harness to protect their dog’s health.

Some puppies, especially small breeds, can suffer from a collar that presses against their windpipe, so wearing a harness may be safer.

However, it is still required that all dogs wear a collar with an identification tag detailing their owner’s details.

A dog must wear a collar with its owner’s name and address (Photo: Adobe)

What are the rules?

The Control of Dogs Order 1992 Act for England and Scotland states that a dog must wear a collar with its owner’s name and address on it.

The tag must contain a zip code, but it is not mandatory to include a phone number.

Owners who fail to comply with the rules are in breach of the Animal Health Act 1981, which used to be subject to a “Level 5” cap fine.

A Level 5 fine was previously capped at £5,000 but was later changed in 2015 to become unlimited.

From 13 March 2015, all criminal sanctions under the Act are now “shall be punishable on summary conviction by a maximum penalty of £5,000 or more, or expressed as a Stage 5 fine, now punishable by a fine of any amount”. to the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (DEFRA).

The change means owners who break the law now face an unlimited fine and/or up to six months in prison.

However, the fine for violating the rules is likely to be much lower.

In 2018 the owner of a Cocker Spaniel who was found without a collar near Sapcote in East Midlands was fined £50 with £50 costs and a £30 victim’s surcharge for admitting the offence.

Fines if dogs are not chipped

In addition to ensuring that pets wear a collar, since 2016 it has been a legal requirement for dog owners to microchip their pets.

All dogs over eight weeks must have a chip registered in a DEFRA approved database.

Owners who fail to comply with this requirement can be fined up to £500.

DOG owners could face an unlimited fine or even jail time if their pet does not wear a collar and dog tags while out for a walk.

This is true even when owners are transitioning from a collar to a harness for their dog’s health.

1 Dog owners are required by law to wear their pet’s collar and tag, even if they walk with a harness instead. Photo credit: Getty

It is against the law to put your name and address on the dog tag in public.

The tag must contain a zip code, but phone numbers are not mandatory.

Many owners are switching to harnesses instead of collars because of the health issues associated with collars and leashes.

Small dogs in particular, like corgis, can suffer from a collar that presses against their windpipe.

Therefore, the harness is safer, but the dogs must additionally wear their collars with a tag.

This may come as a shock, but it is nothing new. The Control of Dogs Order 1992 Act for Scotland and England requires a collar with the owner’s name and address on it.

Otherwise, owners are committing an offense under the Animal Health Act 1981, which used to come under a ‘Level 5’ fine (£5,000) but is now potentially unlimited.

But level 5 was abolished in 2015. All criminal sanctions that are punishable as a summary fine with a maximum penalty of £5,000 or more or a Tier 5 fine are now punishable with a fine of any amount.

As a result, owners who break the law can face up to six months in prison and/or an unlimited fine.

However, the fines are often much less.

In 2018, a Cocker Spaniel owner was fined £50, with £50 costs and a £30 victim’s surcharge for admitting to the offence.

Since 2016, dog owners have also had to microchip their dogs. All dogs over 8 weeks require a chip registered in a DEFRA approved database.

Failure to do so may result in a fine of £500. The fine also applies if the owner’s details, such as address or telephone number, change but are not updated in the database.

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Dog owners who go for walks could potentially be breaking the law depending on whether their pooch is wearing a collar or harness.

Most owners use a collar when walking, but some, particularly those with smaller dogs like Yorkshire Terriers, may use harnesses since a leash can pinch on their windpipe.

But using a harness could get you in trouble, as it’s illegal for your dog not to be a proper identifier that includes your name and address, according to the Mirror.

READ MORE: Christmas cards for Paultons Park go on sale – but popular favorite is missing

If your dog is caught without one, you could face a hefty fine and, at worst, six months in prison.

The law relating to the dog tag is contained in the Dog Control Act 1992, which applies in England and Scotland.

Violators will be found guilty of an offense under the Animal Health Act 1981, which “shall be punishable on summary conviction by a fine not exceeding step 5 on the standard scale”.

A Level 5 fine was previously capped at a maximum of £5000 – but this changed in March 2015.

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A DEFRA (Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs) spokesman told TeamDogs: “For crimes committed after March 13, 2015, Level 5 has been abolished and all criminal sanctions have been expressed in such a way that they would be imposed on summary conviction can be fined with a maximum fine of £5,000 or more, or expressed as a Tier 5 fine, is now punishable with a fine of any amount (ie unlimited).

“That is the finding of Section 85 of the Legal Aid, Sentencing and Punishment of Offenders Act 2012.

“Therefore, the maximum penalty for a summary conviction is up to six months imprisonment and/or an unlimited fine.”

However, the fines actually imposed are likely to be significantly lower.

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In 2018, a cocker spaniel found without a collar near Sapcote, East Midlands, earned its owner a £50 fine, with a £50 cost and a £30 victim’s surcharge for admitting the offence.

Owners should be aware that their zip code must also appear on their dog’s collar or tag, but the law does not require you to provide your phone number.

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Although they look complicated, dog harnesses are a great tool that anyone can use to make dog walks more comfortable for you and your dog.

Dogs need daily walks to ensure they are happy and healthy. Putting on a harness is one way to make those daily hikes more comfortable. Because your leash attaches to the harness between your dog’s shoulders or across your dog’s chest, using a harness reduces leash pulling that can choke a dog or injure their neck. Any dog ​​can benefit from walking with a well-fitting harness, but especially dogs that are likely to pull or have breathing difficulties during exercise (like brachycephalic breeds).

Don’t be put off by all the snaps and straps on a harness! Once you understand how to choose and put on a harness, it becomes a foolproof tool that benefits both you and Fido.

Steps to properly fitting a harness

The important things first. You have to know how to find a good fit! A good harness should be easily adjustable and should be purchased based on your dog’s measurements.

Most harnesses are available in sizes small to extra large. It will be easier for you to choose a size if you know your dog’s weight and body measurements. Most harnesses come with fit guides to help you measure your dog properly.

Step 1: Measure your dog’s girth about 2 inches from their elbow.

Step 2: Measure your dog’s neck slightly lower than a regular collar.

Step 3: Choose the size of the harness based on your measurements and weight. Make sure there is a little room for adjustment.

How to put on common types of dog harnesses

If you’ve already bought a dog harness, you know there’s a lot to choose from. The way you put the harness on your dog will vary depending on their type. Not all types are suitable for all dogs. And as with any new piece of exercise equipment, a harness should be used in conjunction with a positive reinforcement training program.

The harnesses contain either one or two D-rings (to which you attach the leash) and buckle straps that allow you to adjust the harness to fit your dog. Pay attention to the position of the D-ring as it indicates the type of harness.

Step-in harness:

A step-in harness only contains a D-ring, which is located on the back. Your dog must step into the harness (both front paws) so that you can connect the two sides (with the buckle) on your dog’s back. This species often has a padded chest area, making them a good option for small breeds, for puppies, or for times when you need to walk quick, short distances — like from the car to the veterinary office.

Front clip harness:

These harnesses are often sold as “no-pull harnesses” and are best avoided as they restrict a dog’s shoulder movement and natural gait, making them uncomfortable and unsuitable for daily walks. Many front clip straps have color coded straps for ease of adjustment. On most front clip harnesses, the collar loop (the area that goes around the neck) is a different color than the body straps. The D-ring goes on the front of your dog’s chest. Place this part of the harness on your dog’s chest first, then connect the straps under your dog’s belly area.

Back Clip Harness:

These are probably your go-to places for walks and hikes. You may find this a good option for a puppy learning to walk on a leash, as well as dogs that have neck sensitivities or who are more prone to pulling when overly excited. Back clip harnesses have a D-ring at the back – between your dog’s shoulders. To don this style, first place the smaller loop over your dog’s head so that it fits like a collar. Then have your dog step through the other loops. Adjust the fit by tightening or loosening the straps through the sliders.

Double Ring Harness:

There are some brands that sell harnesses with D-rings on both the chest and back. The Balance harness is an example of this type and is my ideal harness because it suits pretty much every dog ​​and is suitable for everyday use. This type of harness can help reduce pulling while ensuring your dog has full shoulder and body movement. It’s also highly adjustable, which works well for dogs with heavy coats or long and skinny breeds. It has a colorful strap that goes down the dog’s back and connects two loops: a collar loop and the body loop. Put on the collar loop first, then reach around your dog to fasten the body loop straps.

With any type of harness, you will need to adjust the straps to get the best fit. A proper harness fit should be snug but never pinch. Two fingers should fit between the dog and the harness.

A harness that is too loose or too tight can cause injury and discomfort to your dog. If you’re having trouble adjusting your harness, don’t hesitate to ask your veterinarian or a positive reinforcement-based trainer for help.

How to help your dog enjoy a harness

Dogs are not born with an understanding of how to wear a collar or body harness. For some dogs, putting on something that sticks to their body can be really nerve wracking. Don’t force your dog to wear a harness until you’ve built a solid, positive association with them. First, try these tips.

The moment you take out the dishes, give your dog plenty of yummy treats they love. Let them sniff and examine and give treats. Lift the harness and put your arm through the collar loop. Give your dog lots of treats as you buckle and unbuckle the harness to help him get used to the sound. While standing or kneeling beside your dog, wrap the collar loop around your dog while continuously giving him treats. Remove it, then put it back on and treat it each time. If your dog is still enjoying the activity, you can put the collar loop on him and then buckle the straps to give more treats. If he still seems to be having fun, let him run around the house with the dishes for a few minutes. Once he enjoys wearing the harness you can attach your leash to it and walk around your house, your yard and then down the block. Always give your dog plenty of treats while he gets used to walking in the harness.

Step 4: Make sure it’s in place

Adjust the plastic sliders on either side of the neck to center the head strap and ensure a proper fit. You will also need to adjust the single slider on the torso harness to ensure proper seating on the back of the harness. The harness should be secure but not too tight – you should be able to slip two fingers between your dog’s body and any part of the harness.