Terracotta Pots With Side Holes? 97 Most Correct Answers

Got a new baby plant? Looking for the perfect pot? Overwhelmed by the hundreds of pot options? I was there. That’s why I keep going back to a classic – terracotta pots!

Looking to use indoor terracotta pots for your next plant? There are a few things you need to know to get the most out of them.

One thing to know is that terracotta pots are made from baked clay. “Terracotta” means “boiled earth” in Italian. Pretty cool right?

The red/orange coloring comes from the iron content in the clay reacting with oxygen. You’ll soon be a terracotta pro and wow your friends with all these facts. 😉

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Terracotta pots are the best. They’re super cheap. They are timeless. They can also be easily painted and personalized (as on this personalized DIY pot post).

And I admire that they are super trendy right now! I used them as tablescapes for a home I helped design and they go so well with macrame plant hangers (find an easy DIY macrame plant hanger here). They go so well with natural wood, white rooms and macrame everything!

Terracotta pots professionals

Terracotta pots have many advantages. They are great for plants because they are porous, allowing air and water to flow through. This helps prevent root rot or soil diseases that could kill your plants. They can be used both indoors and outdoors – great for a place like Minnesota where I live!

They have drainage holes on the bottom and usually come with matching saucers, which also help water flow through and prevent soggy soil. The drainage hole helps your plant not retain too much water, so they’re a good idea for plants prone to root rot!

They’re inexpensive too. You can keep costs down when adding plants to your home by buying terracotta pots! You can get an 8.5-inch pot from Home Depot for just $4.98, or six 5.5-inch pots from Amazon for about $25.

In addition, they are timeless. Terracotta garden pots go with everything and if you decide you’re over the color they can be painted!

They can be used indoors or outdoors. This is especially helpful for plants that you leave outside in the warm months and bring inside in the colder months.

Terracotta Pot Cons

There are a few problems that come with using terracotta pots, but not many!

First, they can crack from cold (or mishandling). You must be careful when using terracotta pots, especially when moving them to other places or handling them in the cold.

They need to be watered more often than other non-porous pots. As mentioned above, terracotta pots are made from baked clay. This allows water to flow through the pot super easily, which helps with things like preventing root rot, but it often means you have to water your plant more.

I’ve been using terracotta pots for years and have learned a few tricks on how best to use them. Make these three terra cotta hacks for your next baby plant!

3 tips for using terracotta pots

Tip 1: Soak your pot!

The number one rule of thumb when using terracotta pots is to soak them before use! These pots are made of clay, preventing the pot from stealing your plants precious water.

How long do you need to soak your terracotta pots?

Fill a sink and soak them overnight or at least 30 minutes before potting.

Side note: It’s also great entertainment for toddlers. 😉 I love involving our kids in the planting process. I’ve done everything from soaking pots to propagating pothos plants to potting new baby plants with our kids. Now they can’t wait for me to come home with a new plant to learn about!

Tip 2: Use a coffee filter.

No, this tip isn’t just because I love my coffee. 😉 Terracotta pots usually have drainage holes in the bottom. By placing a coffee filter in the pot, you keep the soil in the pot but allow the water to drain out.

Don’t worry if your pot is still wet from soaking. (My toddler was very concerned about this when I put the coffee filter in – ha!)

Simply push the coffee filter into the base and sides. When adding soil, try to prevent the soil from falling between the filter and the pot, but it’s okay if a little slips in.

Tip 3: Use a plastic trivet under your pot.

Since the saucer you get with your pot is also made out of clay, there’s a good chance it will ruin your floor or wooden table/dresser/etc. when you water it.

Save your home and put a plastic saucer like this one from Amazon under your pot! It doesn’t necessarily have to be plastic, but something that fits between your pot and carpet or wood.

And that’s it! Super simple things that make a world of difference the next time you use a terracotta pot.

How to clean terracotta pots

You may find that after prolonged use of your pot, a crusted scale or powdery white residue builds up. The pots will begin to absorb the minerals in the soil and will cloud the pots with these mineral deposits.

Terracotta pots are also prone to the growth of white mold or powdery mildew because the clay material absorbs so much liquid.

But they’re actually super easy to clean with just a little elbow grease!

The first step: you should remove the plants from your dirty pots. The easiest way to get all the loose dirt out is to let it dry before scraping it out. Use a stiff wire brush or steel wool to scrape off all dry dirt and clean the pot completely.

Your next step is to soak it in a vinegar solution! This not only helps with cleaning, but also with disinfecting, which is important when using the pot for new plants. Use a ratio of 1 part vinegar to 4 parts warm water.

That should get rid of all the white stuff and scum on the pot! If there is any left, you can use a solution of baking soda and water to finish cleaning.

The final step is soaking in bleach. Bleach can damage terracotta pots, so use it sparingly! Use a ratio of 1 part bleach to 10 parts water. Soaking in this bleach solution will remove any fungus that could possibly remain on your clean pots.

You can help avoid the crusty white residue by changing the type of water and fertilizer you use. Rainwater or distilled water doesn’t have the minerals that tap water does, so it’s better for your terracotta pots. Likewise, organic fertilizers are better than chemical fertilizers.

Terracotta vs. ceramic pots

I love both terracotta and ceramic pots, but it definitely depends on what plant I’m using them for. Terracotta absorbs water from the soil and dries out the soil faster, but ceramic’s glaze means the soil stays much wetter. Terracotta pots also have drainage holes and some ceramic pots don’t.

This means that terracotta pots are best for plants that need good drainage and like the soil to dry out quite a bit before watering. Succulents, cacti, monstera, snake plants and ficus are just a few examples of plants that love terracotta planters.

Ceramic planters are good for water-loving plants that don’t mind if their roots are in wet soil. Spider plants, pothos, and ferns are some of the plants that are perfect for ceramic pots.

There is much more variety in the color and appearance of ceramic pots than terracotta. So if you choose a plant that could thrive in both, ceramic might suit your style better.

Best Terracotta Pots

The best terracotta pots are the ones that fit your budget, your plants, and your style, so don’t feel like you have to spend a ton on a fancy planter. Here are three stylish planter options to get you started!

FAQ

Is terracotta good for plants?

Yes, terracotta’s porosity is great for plants that need good drainage and are prone to root rot. It’s also a good option for plants that need to be brought indoors during cold weather, as terracotta can be used both indoors and outdoors.

Which plants grow well in terracotta?

Terracotta is ideal for plants that do poorly in very wet soil such as succulents, cacti, snake plants, monstera, ficus, philodendron and more. When considering a plant, look at the care instructions; if it prefers dry soil, terracotta is probably a good choice.

Are terracotta pots waterproof?

Terracotta is not waterproof. It’s porous and absorbent, so it absorbs water you pour into the soil. For this reason I also recommend a plastic trivet instead of a terracotta trivet. The terracotta saucer still allows water to slowly seep onto the surface below.

Do terracotta pots dry out too quickly?

This depends on the type of plant and the size of your pot! Smaller terracotta plants might dry out too quickly for your little plant that is still developing. You’ll need to be more vigilant about watering (or at least checking the soil) when you’re getting used to terracotta or your plants are young.

What is your favorite plant to have in your house?

Be sure to check out what are the 7 best plants for air purification or some of my favorite plant stands so you can add more plants to your home! Or if you’re feeling DIY, make a macrame plant hanger for your pot!

Thank you for reading!

Jen

Covering drainage holes in pots is a necessary evil. Without something to cover the hole in the bottom of your planter, the soil will eventually wash out of the pot through the hole in the planter and the plant will settle.

That also means your furniture will take a beating. Planters without covered drainage holes can create a major mess for your furniture if soil leaks out of the bottom hole.

It is necessary for pots to have proper drainage to maintain the health of your potted plants. Planters without drainage holes can cause all sorts of problems due to excess moisture.

What problems does this create and how do you prevent the soil from being washed out of the drain hole? Read on to find out.

Problems with pots that don’t have a drainage hole

I hear you all saying – “Just buy pots with no drainage holes!” While this keeps the soil in the pot, is a decorative idea, and is easy on your furniture, it’s not the best idea for your plants.

There are several problems that arise when planting in pots without drainage holes.

risk of overwatering

Plants in pots without a drainage hole are prone to root rot. If a plant is saturated with water that doesn’t drain, it will be harmful to the plant. Signs of root rot include yellow leaves, mushy stems (and roots), and slow growth.

Soil that is too wet leads to all sorts of moisture-related problems as it doesn’t allow enough air to get to the roots.

Salt deposits on the planter and the soil

Without proper drainage, salts from plant fertilizer will accumulate both in the soil and on top of the pot over time. This results in unsightly pots and plants that can suffer from root damage caused by chemical build-up.

Do you already have this problem with your pots? Find out how to clean terracotta pots to remove the stains.

suffocate plant roots

Without a way to drain the water, a plant’s roots cannot get oxygen and suffer.

One of the most common questions I get from my blog readers is “how often should I water my plants?” Without drainage holes in pots, overwatering is an even bigger problem.

ground loss

If the soil keeps washing out the drainage hole, the plant will settle deeper in the pot.

In this case, the roots have a smaller area to grow. This means you will end up having to repot earlier and add fresh soil.

Tips for covering drainage holes in pots

Luckily for you, there are a few ways to ensure the soil stays in the pot and not on your table. One of these quick and easy fixes might work for you.

Would you like to keep a copy of this printout in your garden journal? You can print it out in your web browser or in the card at the bottom of the post.

Cover the drain hole with foils

This technique requires forward thinking when planting. Before you put the soil in your pot, add something that will allow the water to drain out of the hole but the soil will stay in the pot.

Here are some of my favorite ways of doing this.

Use a filter to cover the drain hole

Cut a small mesh screen to fit the bottom of your pot. Plastic mesh works best – metal mesh can rust. Old plastic fly screens can also be used.

Large pebbles, irregular in shape, cover the hole but do not prevent the water from coming out. It used to be recommended to have a layer of pebbles in the bottom of pots with no holes for drainage.

This is no longer considered ideal. It is now believed that adding gravel to the bottom of a pot increases the level of water saturation which leads to root rot. A single large pebble is better.

Another way to cover the hole is to use a piece of a broken terracotta pot. This has a curved shape that stays in the ground but allows water to drain well.

Pleated coffee filters or even newspaper will work, although they will eventually break and need to be replaced. Landscape cloth inserts do the same job on coffee filters or newspapers, but last longer because they don’t break down like paper.

Packing peanuts does a good job of allowing drainage and holding the soil. They also make a pot lighter and you don’t need as much soil. Styrofoam cut to the shape of the bottom of the pot also works well. It allows the water to drain but keeps the soil intact.

Coconut fibers or peat moss are ideal as a base for pots, especially for hanging baskets. They hold the soil well and keep it moist too. This type of liner works well with hanging baskets.

Recycle microwaveable trays used to cover drainage holes in pots

If your pot is fairly large, the trays of microwaveable frozen food containers work well.

This neat trick takes advantage of something we often throw away—microwavable frozen food containers. The curved sides of the screens in these containers make them ideal for covering drainage holes in pots while still keeping the soil in.

The bowls, which steam vegetables quickly, are a great size for many larger pots. Just push one firmly into the bottom of the pot to cover the drainage hole and you’ve got a great way of keeping the soil in there.

The width of the container also means you save money on soil too, as you don’t need as much in the pot!

Idea shared by Garden Gate Magazine.

Use a pot with a saucer to hold the soil inside

Plant coasters are made in many sizes and can be color matched to the planter.

Coasters protect furniture from leaking water and also help to keep dirt from washing out.

Try to choose a saucer that is removable. There are many planters that come with a permanently attached saucer. These may not allow for adequate drainage as they are snug fitting with little room to hold excess water.

A note about saucers: never leave a plant in a water-filled saucer. Plants will keep absorbing moisture through the hole, causing excess moisture to build up in the soil.

If you water the plant, drain it completely and then discard the excess water.

Make a display to prevent your soil from being washed out

This idea is similar to the saucer suggestion above but takes it to a new level. It works well with succulents that come in small pots.

Take an oversized saucer and use it to display several small pots. Succulent pots often don’t contain much soil and the holes are usually small.

Placing them in an oversized trivet keeps the soil in the little pots turning the whole thing into a pretty succulent display.

Double the pot

Many nurseries sell plants in simple plastic containers that are not at all decorative.

You can add a touch of decor and also keep the soil in the original pot while double potting still allows it to drain. Simply insert the plastic plant pot into a decorative planter. The water drains out of the plastic pot and the soil stays in it.

The photo below shows a flower box with several plastic pots in it. You can also use the same idea by choosing a single outdoor pot that is only slightly larger than the plastic pot your plant came in.

Note: Make sure that the inner pot is never submerged in water. Treat it like a saucer. Water the plant, let it drain and then water the excess from the outer pot.

Choose a pot with several small drainage holes

Some pots come with multiple small drainage holes instead of just one larger hole. This keeps the soil in the pot well while allowing the water to drain. I don’t actually recommend this idea because it slows the drainage of the water.

You still need a saucer for this idea if you use the pot indoors.

What about buying drain hole plugs?

There are special plugs you can get that will plug the hole. This does a great job of keeping the soil in the pot but also turning it into a planter with no drainage hole.

This can lead to the problems mentioned above. If you do this, be sure to have some material at the top that is deep enough for the water to run in and not soak the plant.

Pin these ideas for covering drainage holes in pots

Would you like to be reminded of this post to prevent soil from being washed out of your pots? Just pin this image to one of your gardening boards on Pinterest for easy reference later.

Admin’s Note: This post on covering drainage holes in pots first appeared on the blog in April 2013. I’ve updated the post with more potted soil ideas, brand new pictures, a printable version for your gardening journal, and a video for you to enjoy.

The following links are affiliate links. I get a small commission at no additional cost to you if you buy through an affiliate link.

Yield: 1 Printable Drain Hole Covering Ideas Printable Print Keep those pot drain hole covering ideas handy by printing out this printable list of creative hole covering ideas. Active Time 5 minutes Total Time 5 minutes Difficulty Easy Estimated Cost $1 Materials Photo Paper or Heavyweight Cardstock Tools Deskjet Printer Instructions Load your computer printer with photopaper or heavyweight cardstock. Print out the image below. Keep the printout in your garden journal for future reference. Notes This image will be printed on an approximately 3/4 size sheet of paper. If your printer has the settings, select Full Page to get the largest possible image size. Featured Products As an Amazon Associate and member of other affiliate programs, I earn from qualifying purchases. The gardener’s log

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Terracotta pots for houseplants

There are many different types of pots to choose from when it comes to houseplants. There’s more to choosing the right pot than just what looks pretty (although that definitely matters).

You should also consider the material of the pot and the growing conditions of your plant.

Terracotta pots are one of the most common types of pots you will see at your local greenhouse. These types of pots have been around for centuries.

But are terracotta pots good for houseplants?

The answer is yes, terracotta pots are good for houseplants—but that may depend on your plants and your plant care routine.

Sound confusing? Don’t worry.

This article will clarify everything. We treat:

Pros and cons of using terracotta pots for houseplants

which plants like terracotta pots

how to use terracotta based pots

and maintenance tips to make your pots last longer

The next time you’re looking for the perfect pot for your new plant, you’ll know if terracotta is the right choice or if you should choose a different type.

This website contains affiliate content. As an affiliate partner of various brands, we earn commissions on qualifying purchases at no additional cost to you. Please read our disclaimer for more information.

Benefits of Using Terracotta Pots for Houseplants

Terracotta pots are breathable and porous, making it harder to overwater plants

Indoor plants that like dry soil thrive in terracotta pots

Terracotta pots are sturdier than plastic or ceramic pots

Efflorescence (white crust appearance) forms on terracotta pots.

Let’s dive into the benefits of terracotta pots.

Terracotta pots are particularly breathable and porous

Terracotta pots are made from baked clay, giving them their Italian namesake which means “baked earth”.

Terracotta pots absorb water and allow water to escape through their sides and evaporate easily. Also, air and oxygen can easily enter and exit terracotta pots.

All of this combined helps prevent plants from overwatering, which often leads to root rot and death.

Terracotta pots are suitable for houseplants that like relatively dry soil

Because of their ability to absorb water and their drainage holes, houseplants that like dry conditions do particularly well in terracotta pots.

Some of the plants that grow best in terracotta plants are:

Peperomia (radiator plants)

Pilea (Chinese ivy)

Hoya (wax plants)

Sansevieria (snake plants)

Epiphyllum (climbing cacti)

moth orchids

succulents

cacti

basil

TIP: To prevent soil from spilling out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the pitcher, place a coffee filter in your pitcher before adding soil. This allows the water to continue draining away, but the soil remains inside.

Terracotta pots are more stable than other pots

Although terracotta pots are fragile, they are much sturdier than plastic pots.

The weight of the filled pots is ideal for top-heavy plants. They are also harder for your pets to knock over.

And if your houseplant needs to be moved from time to time, terracotta pots are comparatively (compared to concrete pots) lightweight.

Terracotta pots develop efflorescence (white crust residue)

If you’re wondering what that white crust on your terracotta pot is, don’t worry, it’s perfectly normal and healthy.

The whitish crusting of minerals on the outside of your terracotta pot is called efflorescence. It is caused by leaching of calcium (or lime) and mineral deposits from hard tap water and fertilizers.

Efflorescence was once considered unsightly and is now preferred by some who like the worn, earthy look of these minerals on a plain, rust-colored pot. However, if you don’t like the way it looks, read on for some tips on cleaning your terracotta pot.

Disadvantages of using terracotta pots for houseplants

Let’s take a look at some reasons why you shouldn’t consider using terracotta pots for your plants.

Terracotta pots require more maintenance than other pots

Terracotta pots may not be suitable for all types of houseplants

Terracotta pots are only conditionally stable

Terracotta pots are relatively high-maintenance

Because terracotta is so porous, over time it can harbor mineral deposits, plant bacteria and viruses. To keep your terracotta pots hygienic and usable, you need to soak, wash, clean, disinfect and/or impregnate them. We’ll go into more detailed cleaning instructions later in this article.

Terracotta pots may not be suitable for all types of plants

Some houseplants require pots that don’t soak up water as easily as terracotta pots.

Plants that do not do well in terracotta pots include:

Soleirolia (Baby Tears)

Epipremnum (Golden Pothos)

Chlorophytum (spider plants)

ferns

Before you decide what type of pot to plant in, read the care instructions. If the plant requires soil that stays moist, you might be better off avoiding terracotta and opting for a plastic or ceramic pot instead.

Terracotta pots are only conditionally stable

As we mentioned earlier, terracotta pots are pretty sturdy, but they’re not exactly unbreakable.

If you have pets or small children in the house, a concrete pot might be a better choice.

Terracotta pots have also been known to crack and chip in cold weather. Keep them away from drafty windows and do not store them outside in winter.

Now that you know the pros and cons of using terracotta pots for your houseplants and which plants like terracotta pots, let’s look at the difference between clay pots and terracotta pots and how to use terracotta pots.

What is the difference between clay pots and terracotta pots?

Clay pots are made from the earth’s natural clay. The clay is left to set in the desired shape and painted with an impenetrable luster to give the pot’s consistency. However, this sheen can be dangerous for many houseplants as it traps moisture and doesn’t allow the soil and plant to breathe, but it extends the shelf life of these pots and helps them last much longer than terracotta pots.

On the other hand, terracotta pots are also made of clay, but baked at a sufficiently high heat so that they no longer have a soft consistency even when moistened. Once made, the terracotta pots can be coated with a glossy finish or left in their natural state. When a gloss is applied, it is one that allows plants to breathe. This type of coating is water-based and completely safe for plants.

Terracotta pots are easy to identify as they are always an orange-red color similar to rust (dark or light), but a clay pot can be any color.

TIP: Clay pots and ceramic pots are usually coated to give them a shiny appearance.

However, terracotta is generally left in its naturally matte form.

How to prepare your terracotta pot for planting

To prepare your terracotta pot for indoor use, make sure it’s clean, sanitized, and otherwise free of dirt or bacteria (explained in the next section).

Step 1: If you are using a new pot, soak it in warm water for at least half an hour. This will ensure that the pot does not dry out your plant’s soil prematurely.

Step 2: Place a glazed terracotta or plastic trivet under your terracotta pot to catch excess water and prevent water damage to your furniture or floor.

Step 3: Place your pot in the saucer. Add new potting soil to the bottom of the pot and pat down. Place your plant (roots and all) in the pot and water/place new potting soil a little looser around the roots. Once your plant can stand well enough on its own, it has been potted successfully. water as needed.

Step 4: Water as needed.

TIP: If you put a terracotta saucer under your pot, make sure it’s glazed. A glazed saucer prevents the water from being absorbed by the terracotta material which could cause water damage to your furniture.

How to clean terracotta pots

To remove mineral deposits and dirt from old terracotta pots, you need to clean them.

There are two different ways to clean terracotta pots. One uses vinegar, the other bleach.

How to clean terracotta pots with vinegar

Step 1: Use a bristled flower pot brush to remove loose soil from inside the pot.

Step 2: Soak the pot in vinegar (white vinegar or cleaning vinegar) and warm water. You should use a solution that is three parts water and one part vinegar and let it soak for half an hour (some sources say up to 24 hours if needed).

Step 3: Soak the pot in pure warm water for another half hour or rinse with warm water to remove vinegar residue.

Step 4: Let the pot dry completely before planting.

How to clean terracotta pots with bleach

Separate from cleaning your pots is the bleaching process. This process is supposed to really disinfect the terracotta pot from bacteria and plant diseases.

Always use gloves when handling bleach and bleach solutions – and be careful.

Step 1: Make a solution that is four parts water and one part bleach.

Step 2: Place the pot in the solution and let it soak for four hours.

Step 3: Wearing gloves, remove the pot from the solution and let it soak in clean, warm water for another hour.

Step 4: Rinse the pot clean to remove bleach residue.

Step 5: Let the pot dry completely before using.

Tips for using terracotta pots indoors

How to tell if your terracotta pot is waterproof

As you learned earlier in this article, one of the main advantages of terracotta pots is their porous material. Their ability to absorb water makes you less likely to overwater your plants.

Because of this, terracotta pots aren’t typically waterproof—and they typically have a dull, rust-colored appearance.

When your terracotta pot has been impregnated, it will look like a shiny, glazed pottery.

On the left a glazed terracotta saucer, on the right an unglazed terracotta saucer

You may be wondering why should I waterproof my terracotta pot?

By waterproofing or sealing your terracotta pot, your pot will retain more water. It is highly recommended that you read the care instructions for your plant before deciding whether to waterproof your terracotta pots.

If you plan to use your pots for the above plants that like dry conditions, waterproofing your pot is not advisable. However, if your plant requires damp and wet conditions, waterproofing allows you to water your pot less frequently.

How to make your terracotta pot waterproof

First wash your terracotta pot with a drop of dish soap and warm water. Scrub the interior with a flower pot brush and use a paper towel and vinegar to remove exterior mineral deposits.

Rinse and dry with a paper towel (allow to dry completely).

Then use a brush to apply terracotta sealer (or exterior varnish) to the inside of the pot. Let this coat dry completely, then brush the inside again with the sealer and let dry.

Do the same two coat treatment for the outside of the pot. Leave to dry completely.

Garden Answer tested various sealers. Watch the video below to find out what the best sealer for terracotta pots is.

Test 5 different sealers on terracotta saucers! Which is the best? 🌿 // Garden answer

Watch this video on YouTube

How to paint a terracotta pot

We’ll admit, terracotta pots aren’t the most aesthetically pleasing. If you want your terracotta pots to match your interior design, or at least look a little less boring, you can paint them.

Yes, it’s perfectly fine to paint your terracotta pot. Adding color to your terracotta pot reduces the amount your pot can breathe, but not enough to render it unusable.

To paint a terracotta pot, use acrylic craft paints for best results.

Soak your pot in warm water for up to an hour, then brush clean if necessary.

Paint your pot

First dilute some acrylic paint with water on a plastic sheet.

Use a foam brush to apply an even coat of primer to the outside of the pot.

Do the same with the inner upper lip. Leave the rest of the interior unpainted. If necessary, apply another base coat (after the first coat has completely dried).

Use different colored paint and cotton swabs (or an artist brush) to paint finer details.

Allow the pot to dry completely (this may take a few days). Then apply impregnation to the exterior and painted interior surfaces and allow to dry.

Need inspiration? Check out Make It & Love It for 25 design ideas for painting terracotta pots.

Elegant flowers hand painted on terracotta pots

Frequently asked questions about terracotta pots

What size terracotta pot should I use for my houseplant? If you are simply transplanting a new plant you just bought from the grower’s pot into a more aesthetically pleasing pot, use a pot of the same size. However, if you are repotting because your plant has outgrown its current pot, choose a pot that is 2 to 4 inches larger in diameter than the existing pot. It is important to remember that plants take root in the soil and need to develop in a circular motion around the base root of the plant. On average, you should leave a few inches of space around the edges of the pot for the roots to grow. Where the roots do not reach into the pot (vertically or horizontally), the leftover soil allows excess water to drain, which is critical to the plant’s survival. How long do terracotta pots last? On average, most terracotta pots will last around 3 to 4 years. However, some people use water-based sealers that allow moisture and air in, but also keep the terracotta pot in pristine condition that can last up to 8 years with care. Why does my terracotta pot have white residue? Terracotta pots are made from clay, which is essentially a porous material. The pores allow the interior of the soil and plant to breathe, which then secrete the minerals and natural salts of the water used to hydrate the plants. The white residue on your terracotta pot is the hardened salts and minerals. The residues are not harmful and can be easily removed with a cloth and some water.

More articles on plant care:

Must have houseplant care tools to keep plants alive

Best greenhouses for indoor plants

50+ cute and funny plant sayings for your next DIY flower pot project

Choose clay or plastic pots

by Don Janssen, UNL Extension Educator

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Many gardeners have their own preferences when choosing clay or plastic pots for their plants. If you don’t have a firm opinion either way, this article will detail some of the pros and cons of both types.

Terracotta pots (unglazed clay) are made from a specific soil and fired in kilns during the manufacturing process. The rust-brown clay color harmonises with every flower and foliage color.

Clay pots provide a healthy environment for most plants. The porosity of clay allows air and moisture to enter the sides of the pot. This moisture and air is used by the fine roots located at the edge of the globe. Clay pots also act as a wick to remove excess moisture from the potting soil. This can be seen as both an advantage and a disadvantage depending on your watering habits.

Gardeners with a heavy hand when watering tend to overwater; Your plants will likely benefit from clay. Other gardeners waiting for their plants to wilt are better off with plastic. Plants that need well-drained, dry soil, like cacti, also prefer clay pots.

Using clay outdoors also has advantages. Clay pots have thick walls that protect plant roots from rapid temperature changes that can be destructive. They’re also quite heavy and don’t blow over as easily as some plastic pots. Clay has the disadvantage that it dries quickly. This can be a problem for moisture loving plants like ferns or when trying to germinate seeds.

Clay also has a tendency to form a white layer of crust on the outside of the pot. This occurs when mineral salts dissolved in the water from the pot medium are sucked into and through the pot wall. Some find this layer attractive, most gardeners find it unsightly. The salt deposits can be rubbed off if their appearance is disturbing. A final disadvantage is that clay breaks easily.

Plastic pots are light, strong and flexible. They come in all the colors of the rainbow to coordinate with indoor and outdoor decor. Plastic doesn’t have the moisture-wicking properties of clay, making them an excellent choice for moisture-loving plants or for gardeners who rarely water.

Plastic pots are made of inert materials and are considered safe for growing plants. Many are made from recyclable plastic, making disposal environmentally friendly when the pot is no longer usable (unglazed clay pots are also fully recyclable). Plastic pots generally have thinner walls than their clay counterparts and offer roots little or no insulation from temperature changes. Black plastic can actually act as a solar collector, heating up the potting soil to plant damaging levels.

If plants in dark plastic containers are wilting quickly, make sure the plants are well watered and then move them to a shadier spot where heat build-up shouldn’t be a problem. Sunlight can attack plastic harshly, causing fading and brittleness. Many outdoor plastic pots are treated with UV light inhibitors to reduce fading and maintain flexibility, increasing the life of the pot.

Whether it’s plastic or clay, make sure the pot you choose has drainage holes in the bottom to prevent overwatering.

Terracotta flower pots are making a big comeback! We can’t get enough of its warm, earthy color and minimalist, rustic aesthetic, but there are plenty more reasons to love it. That being said, there are some do’s and don’ts regarding which plants are best for them and how best to care for them.

Here’s a crash course in terra cotta plant pot care so you can grow beautiful, healthy plants in these all-natural, eco-friendly containers.

Are terracotta pots good for plants?

Terracotta pots are made from natural, porous clay. This porous nature means moisture is released from the plant pot more quickly, preventing overwatering and soggy soil. For the most part, this is very beneficial as overwatering is the number one cause of unhealthy or dying plants. However, some plants prefer their soil to be moist all the time. So if you plant them in a terracotta pot, you may struggle to keep up with the watering.

The improved air circulation also helps prevent heat stress in your plants. In a place like Fort Lauderdale, where our summers can be scorching hot, switching to terra cotta pots can make a world of difference! It’s like the difference between wearing breathable cotton or a full leather suit on a hot day – the breathable materials are far more comfortable!

Which plants do well in terracotta pots?

Plants that prefer their soil to dry out before watering do best with this natural baked clay material. Some good contenders are:

cacti

succulents

orchids

peperomia

Sansevieria

philodendrons

hoyas

pileas

bromeliads

Which plants shouldn’t go in terracotta pots?

Plants that prefer consistently moist soil may not be suitable for porous containers as the soil dries much more quickly. Try not to put these plants in terracotta pots:

ferns

irises

cardinal flowers

cannas

Elephant Ears (Colocasia)

Calla Lilies

Creeping Jenny

The difference between high quality and cheap terracotta flower pots

Cheap terracotta will crack and break easily, especially when there are drastic temperature changes. However, high-quality terracotta can last for several decades, so it is worth the investment! The best clay for terracotta usually comes from Italy. How do you tell the difference between high quality and cheap terracotta plant pots? It’s easy!

Turn the pot upside down on a flat surface. Cover the small hole in the bottom of the container with your thumb. Then lightly tap the edge of the container base with a metal screwdriver or kitchen utensil. If it sounds like a thud, that’s cheap terracotta. If it makes a ringtone that resonates, it’s high quality! The higher and more resonant the sound, the better it is.

Taking care of your terracotta flower pots

Don’t worry if you notice a white, crusty buildup on your containers! This is just a natural result of moisture evaporation – salts and minerals are released with the water and sometimes stick to the container. The best way to clean it is with a scrubbing brush and some warm water and vinegar. If you’re reusing old terra cotta pots, it’s a good idea to soak them in a solution of vinegar and water for an hour to kill any bacteria that may be lingering in the pores.

Looking for terracotta flower pots for sale in Fort Lauderdale? Visit the Living Color Garden Center to see the gorgeous new arrivals for 2022! We have many other beautiful container materials, such as Mexican Talavera pottery, inexpensive plastic containers, and earthenware. Our experts will be happy to explain the advantages and disadvantages of our various planters.

Sharing is caring!

Mold grows easily in terracotta pots as the pots provide the perfect environment for growth. Terracotta absorbs moisture from the soil, the pores are wet almost all the time, so they provide excellent conditions for the growth of the fungus. If the pots are in a darker area with high humidity and little air circulation, the fungus will grow even faster. You will see either fuzzy white mold or black mold around the rim or sides of the pots. Watering plants too frequently also contributes, as does keeping plants in low light. In lower light levels, plants photosynthesize less, absorb less water from the soil, and keep the soil and pot moist for longer periods of time.

How do I distinguish mold and mineral deposits?

If you see fuzzy growth, you have mold. If you scratch the mold lightly with your finger, it usually comes off easily. mineral deposits do not. Check out the Instagram video a few paragraphs below to demonstrate the difference between mineral deposits and mold.

Can I leave the mold on terracotta? Is it harmful?

Mold on the outside of pots will not harm your plants. However, mold can be very harmful to health, especially with prolonged exposure. Mold produces spores that can be easily inhaled. Some people are sensitive to mold and experience nasal congestion, itchy eyes or skin, while those with allergies or asthma, or a compromised immune system, may experience more severe reactions. Be sure to remove any mold as soon as you notice it.

Cleaning method 1 – with hydrogen peroxide – without removing the plant

The first and easiest way to kill mold is to use hydrogen peroxide. Pour 3% hydrogen peroxide into a spray bottle and spray the outside of your pots where the mold is. Let it sit for a few minutes. You’ll notice hydrogen peroxide sizzling as it interacts with the mold. Wash the outside of the pots with water to remove as much mold as possible. If necessary, scrub the outside of terra cotta with a brush. I like to spray a bit of hydrogen peroxide on the outside of the pots at the end. Watch this video of the entire cleaning process.

Be careful not to expose hydrogen peroxide to light as it becomes ineffective and will not kill the mold.

Cleaning method 2 – with bleach

A bleach solution is also an effective way to kill the mold. Mix 1 part bleach with 20 parts water and place in a spray bottle. Since bleach is very strong and toxic, I recommend removing the entire plant, including the root ball, from the pot before applying. Spray the outside surface of terra cotta with bleach and scrub. After removing the mold, dip the pot in clean water to remove any remaining bleach. Repeat this 2-3 times to make sure you’ve removed all of the bleach. Allow the pot to air out for a few days to allow the bleach smell to dissipate completely before putting the plant back inside. You can keep the plant in a makeshift pot in the meantime.

Prevent mold on terracotta

There’s an old gardening myth that it’s best to put a layer of gravel or stones at the bottom of a flower pot to improve drainage, but how true is it? Can the practice actually harm plants more than help them?

The main reason for improving drainage in pots is that most plants don’t have “wet feet” aka soggy roots as this leads to root rot which can kill a plant.

Pots, planters, tubs and containers designed for plants always have drainage holes in their bottoms to allow excess water to drain freely and prevent water from pooling at the bottom of the pot.

If pots drain because they have holes, then why the need to increase drainage? Well, that’s because the potting soil the plant is growing in is designed to retain moisture, at least to some extent…

To find out what’s best for plants, let’s look at the science!

Potting media that find the perfect balance

Too much water and plant roots rot, too little water and plants dry up. A good potting medium (potting soil) needs to strike the perfect balance between adequate moisture retention and good drainage for plants to thrive.

Since any decent potting soil needs to retain some moisture, it needs to contain material that absorbs and holds moisture, much like a sponge. This wicking or absorbing property of any potting medium is the ultimate key to understanding how water behaves in pots.

The Science of Flower Pots and Elevated Water Tables

The water naturally runs to the lowest point under the influence of gravity and runs entirely out of a container with drainage holes in the bottom unless something else is in place to keep it there.

This is exactly how absorbent materials behave, such as a wet sponge that is placed upright or a wet bath towel that is hung up on a line. The water will flow down, some of it will drip off and some of it will be retained. The top of a wet sponge or bath towel dries the fastest and the bottom stays wet the longest.

Potting media, which are absorbent materials, behave similarly to all others when wet.

Getting into some basic physics, two opposing forces of nature are at play in a moist potting medium in a pot.

Gravity pulling the water down causing it to drain through the drain holes.

Capillary action that pulls the water up, causing it to be retained and saturating the potting medium.

However, both powers have limitations:

Capillary action can only lift the weight of water against gravity up to a limited height and no higher.

The force of gravity can only exert a limited downward pull on the water against the upward pull of capillary action, and no more.

Eventually these two opposing forces balance each other out and when that happens a layer of water saturated potting soil forms at the bottom of the pot that cannot drain, this is called a flood table because the water is literally “squatting” there and cannot move move.

The flood table is the permanently wet bottom layer of a flowerpot that does not drain

It is important to understand that the water table does not drain, the water stays there unless plant roots draw the water up, or it evaporates when the potting soil dries out, in which case the plant will not survive!

Also note that any pots filled with any type of potting soil, potting soil, or growing medium will have a high water level.

The size and shape of the pot doesn’t matter, it doesn’t matter if a pot is tall and narrow or wide and flat, if it’s big or small, if the growing medium/soil mix is ​​the same, the high water table will always be the same be.

Different growing media have different table heights, the more absorbent materials have higher water tables and the less absorbent ones have lower values.

understand capillary action

In this section we go a little deeper into the science if you are interested, if not please continue to the next section. I enjoy teaching from the ground up as I believe this is a way we can really get to a deeper understanding, but then again I have qualifications in life sciences so I’m biased!

Gravity is self explanatory, it’s the ubiquitous force on this planet that pulls everything down!

Capillary action arises from the cohesive and adhesive forces of liquids.

Cohesive forces are forces of attraction between similar molecules. For example, water molecules can stick to each other.

Adhesive forces are forces of attraction between molecules of different types. For example, water molecules can stick to other materials.

Capillary action, by definition, is the tendency of a liquid to be lifted (or, in the case of mercury, suppressed) in a narrow tube (capillary tube) due to the relative strength of cohesive and adhesive forces.

To explain this further, we need to understand the nature of water.

Water (H 2 O) is considered a polar molecule because it carries a negative charge on one side of the molecule and a positive charge on the other. Its bent V shape gives it a partial positive charge on the hydrogen atom side and a partial negative charge on the oxygen atom side.

Polar molecules act like magnets with north and south poles, the (+) positively charged atoms and (-) negatively charged atoms of these molecules are attracted to each other.

When the positive side of a water molecule gets close to the negative side of another water molecule they attract and form a hydrogen bond and this creates the strong cohesive forces between water molecules and this explains why water sticks to itself.

Water molecules exhibit strong adhesive forces that allow them to stick to other materials when those materials are even more polar (have a stronger electrical charge) than water itself, since the attraction is stronger than the attraction of water molecules to each other.

The upward movement of liquids against gravity, known as capillary action, is a combination of:

The forces of attraction between water molecules and another material above the water surface to which water is not already attached (adhesion) cause the water molecules to rise a little.

The forces of attraction between water molecules towards each other due to the hydrogen bonds they form with each other (cohesion) cause them to pull each other up.

In other words, capillary action is a combination of the action of adhesive and cohesive forces that water exerts.

Now that we know why water moves upwards and creates stagnant water levels in growing media, we can now revisit our initial question from a more scientific perspective!

The effect of placing gravel at the bottom of a pot on the elevated water table

Would it make a difference if we put a wet sponge upright in the sink or on a layer of gravel in the same sink? Now that we understand how the forces of adhesion and cohesion in liquids create a capillary action that leads to the formation of a high level of water at the bottom of an absorbent medium, we can see that it has no bearing on these forces in any way at all.

Remember that the downward force is due to gravity, which we cannot increase. A lower layer of a different material does not change the adhesive forces between the growing medium and the water molecules, nor the cohesive hydrogen bonds between water.

What is the effect of adding gravel to the bottom of a pot under the growing medium?

It reduces the volume of the potting medium and pushes the water level higher into the pot as shown in the image below.

Adding gravel to the bottom of a pot creates two potentially serious problems:

Pushing the saturated aquifer up, closer to the plant roots actually increases the risk of root rot as the roots stay moist longer.

Reducing the volume of growing medium available to plant roots reduces root growth space and total root volume, as well as available moisture, thereby reducing plant drought tolerance and potential maximum growth size.

There is no benefit in putting a layer of gravel or rocks in a pot when we examine the matter on basic scientific principles!

The right way to increase drainage in pots and containers

If the same potting soil is used, regardless of the size or shape of the pot, the groundwater level will always remain at the same level as it is determined by the potting soil’s absorbency, since gravity does not change.

The way to increase drainage of the high water table is to add materials throughout the potting medium to increase air spaces in the mix and reduce capillary action.

Some plants require extremely well-drained soil mixes in containers. Many orchids, for example, are epiphytes (plants do not grow in the ground but get moisture and nutrients from the air and rain and usually grow on the surface of another plant), and many grow on trees. Cymbidium orchid growers use an orchid mix consisting primarily of coarse 20mm (3/4″) composted pine bark pieces. This mix contains huge air spaces and drains very well, hardly retaining any moisture in the bark pieces, so there is no high water table.

Cactus and succulent potting soils are coarse, open mixes made with some organic matter to retain a little moisture and lots of gritty material like crushed quartz or other crushed rock that acts like sandy soil and water almost straight lets through.

Perlite and vermicults are materials used as soil additives, and both are minerals that are made more porous by being expanded with heat, much like popcorn. Because they have large air spaces within them, they are used to increase drainage and aeration in potting soils. Perlite primarily increases drainage, while vermiculite also retains some moisture and helps retain nutrients. Mixing any of these supplemental materials directly through a potting soil will increase aeration, improve drainage and reduce water table elevation.

Hydroponic systems also use perlite as a potting medium, or “clay balls” which are actually clay-coated pumice balls that are very porous and weigh almost nothing. These growing media have large air spaces both within and between the particles, so they drain extremely well but hold enough water to keep the roots moist.

We can see that the common horticultural practice of increasing drainage in pots and containers is by changing the composition of the potting medium to increase the air spaces within it, rather than by making changes to the space below the pot.

How did the tradition of putting gravel at the bottom of pots come about?

The only way gravel at the bottom of the pot will increase drainage is if the pot has inadequate drainage, either because it doesn’t have enough drainage holes or it has blocked drainage holes.

This is speculation on my behalf, but I suspect the reason gardeners have traditionally used gravel in the bottom of pots is probably because pots were traditionally made of terracotta clay and not plastic, and these pots were just one large single one Have drainage hole in the bottom of the pot. With these pots, it was (and still is) a traditional practice to place a very loose-fitting rock over the hole to prevent the potting soil from falling out. If that single hole were plugged, water would pool at the bottom of the pot and drain very slowly, causing waterlogging. The problem would be even worse with glazed terracotta pots, which don’t allow moisture to seep from their sides and stay wet longer.

Adding gravel to the bottom of terracotta pots creates a small water holding area for the excess water that would normally drain away on its own if the gravel weren’t there to pool when the single drain hole becomes clogged. That’s my educated guess, and like most traditions, people eventually forget the reason something was done in the first place and just keep doing the same thing out of habit.

There are always plenty of drainage holes with plastic pots, and many are designed to improve drainage through the use of dished bottoms with drainage holes around the edges to drain excess water more quickly.

Still think gravel in pots improves drainage?

If you’ve read this far and are still not convinced that putting gravel on the bottom of a put only pushes the water table up but doesn’t improve drainage, then I have two charts and two direct quotes from authoritative sources around to illustrate the point:

From the North Willamette Research and Extension Center, Oregon State University, Physical Properties of Container Media:

“For a given medium, the flood level remains the same regardless of plant height. It is therefore unwise to use the same media in large containers as in small ones.”

Perched groundwater diagram, University of Oregon

From the University of California, Agriculture and Natural Resources, Master Gardeners of Monterey Bay:

Diagram of the saturated zone of the high water table, University of California

From the University of Illinois Extension, Urban Programs Resource Network – Successful container gardens, Choosing a container for planting – Drainage is critical to plant health:

“Omit the gravel in the bottom of single or pot liners – It is a myth that a layer of gravel (in the bottom of a single pot) underground improves drainage of containers. Instead of additional water immediately draining into the gravel, the water “squats” or pools in the ground just above the gravel. The water collects until there is no more air space. Once all the available airspace in the soil is filled, excess water flows into the gravel below. So gravel in the ground does little to prevent the soil above from becoming saturated from overwatering.”

From the University of Tennessee, Institute of Agriculture, Agricultural Extension Service – PB1618, Growing Media for Greenhouse Production, we see that reducing the depth of the pot actually increases water retention and decreases drainage, so putting gravel at the bottom of a pot has the opposite effect:

“Height of Media Column/Container – Another factor associating media with air/water ratios in the root zone is the size of the growing container. For media in containers, the amount of air and water contained in a given media is a function of the height of the media column. The higher the column, the smaller the ratio of water to air spaces. This is most important in plug production where the small cells drain very poorly or not at all, resulting in poor aeration of the root zone… All containers have some amount of saturated media at the bottom of the container after drainage. This is due to what is called a high water table. The saturation zone is a larger portion of the total volume of growing medium in a very short container such as a plug cell. A good way to illustrate the effect of container height is to use a sponge. A sponge measuring 2@ x 4.25@ x 8.5@ (72.25 cubic inches or 1184 milliliters) represents the media in a container. When fully saturated, the sponge holds 950ml; that is, the total porosity is 80 percent. Holding the sponge so it’s 2 inches high will drain about 50mL of water, resulting in a 4.2 percent volumetric airspace. If it’s then held so that it’s 4.25 inches high, another 125 ml drains out, resulting in a 14.8 percent volume airspace. If the sponge is then held so that it is 8.5 inches high, an additional 375 ml drains out, resulting in a volume airspace of 46.5 percent. Starting with the same volume of media (sponge), the effect of tank height (sponge height) on media headspace is dramatic. We can conclude that the choice of containers is important to manage the water-air relationships in the root zone, especially in plugs.”

Hopefully that will convince you! If not, see for yourself. I’ll show you how to test this, all you need is some empty soda bottles. This is a properly controlled experiment, so please do not change the experiment’s design parameters on a whim!

A simple experiment to test if adding gravel to the bottom of a pot will improve drainage

Here’s a simple experiment to see if adding gravel to the bottom of a pot will improve drainage or not. This would be a great classroom experiment.

Make some clear plastic pots by cutting off the tops of clear plastic soft drink bottles so that the standing water level is visible through the sides.

Make an equal number of appropriately sized holes (approximately 6mm or 1/4″) in the bottom of each clear pot.

For the first pot, add potting soil only, filling to only 1″ (2.5cm) from the pot and leaving a gap from the top of the potting soil to the top of the pot for easy watering. When filling the pots, tap the sides lightly to set the potting soil down, do not squeeze.

In all other pots, add progressively more gravel to the bottom, then fill in the potting soil to within 2.5cm (1″) of the pot. Gently tap the sides to set the potting soil lightly, do not pinch. Pour the same amount of water into each pot.

Wait for all the pots to drain well, this depends on the type of substrate used and the volume of the containers.

Observe the high water table.

If the physics are right, then the stagnant water table, the wet bottom layer of potting medium will be the same thickness in each pot, and the gravel will just push it higher in the pot because it’s pushing all of the potting soil up into the pot.

That said, now let’s play some mind games!

The permaculture design approach that turns drainage problems into solutions!

If we look at the Permaculture Attitudinal Design principle – “Everything Works Both Ways” – we see that whether we see something as positive or negative, a “problem” or a useful resource depends on our attitude.

So how can we turn the problems created by adding gravel at the bottom of pots into solutions? This is a real exercise in lateral thinking, or more precisely, in the holistic solution thinking of permaculture.

When we perform a permaculture functional analysis of the results of our findings, we see that the technique reduces soil volume and increases saturated water tables.

One of the problems gardeners often encounter is unknowingly planting a tiny plant in a pot that is too big. Small plants don’t have enough roots to absorb large amounts of water, and in large pots the potting soil stays too wet for too long, again leading to root rot. The growing medium will not be as saturated as the high water table, but it will still be wet enough for far too long to harm the plant. It is wisdom in gardening advice when transplanting to plant to the next pot size and gradually increase the pot size, rather than planting in the largest pot available to begin with.

A shallow rooted plant in a tall narrow pot will have similar problems, there will be too much overly wet potting soil that the roots will never be able to reach, and if the potting soil stays too wet for too long it will crumble much faster and sink down down, causing the level of the plant in the pot to drop. Filling the bottom of the pot with coarse slag that is light will eliminate the unusable space in a tall narrow pot, effectively reducing the pot size to a more suitable volume.

The only type of plants that love a saturated growing medium are marginal aquatic plants, and there are many useful edible ones such as watercress, taro, kangkong and water chestnuts for example. However, with these plants, it is much better to remove the drainage altogether and saturate the entire growing medium, or place the pots in a saucer of water.

There are always exceptions to the rules, as we’ve discussed in this section, but in general it’s best not to place gravel, rocks, pebbles, slag, terracotta pot shards, or other materials in the bottom of the pot under the growing medium.

Give the plants as much room to spread their roots relative to what they are using or needing. The more moisture-retaining growing medium/potting mix available, the less often a plant will need to be watered, as long as the pot isn’t too big. Almost all plants prefer a natural wet-dry cycle as they experience it in nature.

Most people place a rock or pebble over the drainage holes in pots, especially the large central ones at the bottom of terracotta pots, to prevent the potting soil from falling out and making a mess. The point is not to block the hole, but simply to create a loose fitting barrier to prevent loss of growing medium while still allowing water to drain freely.

As a final thought, it’s worth pondering, it’s strange how gardening has as its basis the applied sciences of horticulture and agriculture, yet is still filled with so many dogmas and myths, very strange indeed…

To learn how to improve drainage in pots, please read my article – How to improve drainage in flower pots, the right way to do it!

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If you love your Letterfest terracotta pots half as much as we do, then your garden, patio or window sills most likely have them covered!

However, we occasionally notice a buildup of white powdery residue on the outside of these pots. We spoke to our pot makers in Italy and found out what it is and how best to treat it.

It turns out that the clay material these pots are made of is porous and actually breathes. It allows the natural salts and minerals in our water to leach out, causing a white, powdery buildup on the outside of the pot.

These residues are not harmful and can be easily removed. Yay!

Here are some simple solutions to this residue build-up:

1. Simply wipe regularly with a damp cloth

2. Treat empty pots with a vinegar and water solution and scrub away any white residue with a coarse brush

3. Treat empty pots with a solution of bleach and water and scrub away any white residue with a coarse brush

4. Water your plants with rainwater or distilled water

Garden therapy with some helpful tips on how to keep those terracotta pots sparkling clean. There is a lovely article from our friends at with some helpful tips on how to keep those terracotta pots sparkling clean.

Choosing a container for planting

Drainage is critical to plant health

A hole in the bottom of the container is critical. It allows the water in the soil to drain away freely, so that the roots have enough air available. While different types of plants have different drainage needs, few can tolerate sitting in stagnant water. Healthy roots mean healthier plants. So make sure there are holes for drainage. Coastal plants love wet soil, so if the pot won’t drain, consider using them. See the Water Gardening section for more information.

Wet soil encourages root rot because it leaves little room for air to get to the roots. Plants rarely recover from root rot. More information on root rot:

http://web.aces.uiuc.edu/vista/pdf_pubs/615.pdf

http://ipm.uiuc.edu/diseases/series600/rpd664/index.html

If the pot doesn’t have a hole, find a way to make a hole. One option is to drill one. Some decorative resin or plastic pots have pre-punched holes in the bottom for easy removal. In general, very little soil falls through the hole. To prevent soil from falling through large drainage holes, some people use coffee filter paper over the hole, although this isn’t necessary. Small holes in the bottom of the pot allow water to drain and very little soil medium is lost.

Sometimes a plant is already planted in a pot without any drainage whatsoever. The best solution in this case is to take it to a sink, water it, and then after a few minutes set it on its side for a minute or two to allow excess water to drain.

saucers

Beware of pots with fixed saucers where draining the overflow is difficult or impossible. I learned this the hard way when my basil leaves turned black from soaking the roots – the result of a permanently attached saucer. Draining excess water is vital to plant root health. It is much better to use a pot with a removable saucer. Be sure to drain the excess water to allow the soil to dry out a bit.

Double potting

Pushing a container into a slightly larger container is called double potting. With double potting, the plants grow in a pot foil. Often this is a simple plastic pot. This allows you to slide the pot liner in or out of the decorative container without disturbing the plant roots. Make sure the plants in the pot liner are never submerged in water (unless you have aquatic plants). If water collects at the bottom of the larger container, remove the inner pot and drain the water from the outer pot. Put gravel in the bottom of the outer pot when the decorative pot is deep enough. Some excess water can accumulate in the gravel without the plant roots having to stand in the water.

Double potting techniques can be used:

to overcome the problem of the lack of a drainage hole in an attractive decorative pot;

to quickly change seasonal ads;

to combine plants with different environmental requirements;

to minimize extreme ground temperature fluctuations;

preventing desirable but invasive plants from spreading.

Skip the gravel in the bottom of single or pot liners

It is a myth that a layer of gravel (in the bottom of a single pot) underground improves the drainage of the container. Instead of additional water immediately draining into the gravel, the water “squats” or pools in the ground just above the gravel. The water collects until there is no more air space. Once all the available airspace in the soil is filled, excess water flows into the gravel below. So gravel in the ground does little to keep the soil above from becoming saturated from overwatering.

Moist gravel placed in a saucer under the pot can help by increasing the moisture in the immediate area around the plants as water evaporates from the gravel surfaces.

For more information about gravel in the bottom of the pot see: http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~Linda%20Chalker-Scott/Horticultural%20Myths_files/Myths/Container%20drainage.pdf

Self-Watering Pots

Self-watering pots use several methods to effectively draw water from a soil reservoir into the soil without over-wetting the soil. Water can be drawn into the soil by capillary action (or wicking) through small soil columns, rope wicks, or the use of moisture sensors. Self-watering containers are especially useful for weekend homes and people who don’t have time to check water needs on a daily basis.

Always available water is great for vegetables and tropical houseplants. Imagine a dozen cobs of corn growing on your patio in a self-watering container like the Earth Box™. Plants that need to dry out, like thick-leaf cacti and succulents, usually don’t justify the extra expense of a self-watering container.

For more information, use a web search engine with the keywords “self watering planter” or “self watering container” or “soil box”.

Decorative pots and wraps without drainage holes. Sometimes you fall in love with a wonderful container that doesn’t have a drainage hole. This would be the perfect time to find a pot liner that fits in so both you and the plants are happy. In addition to decorative pots, decorative foil or pot foil are a form of double potting. The wrap prevents water from leaking out where it is not wanted. To protect the plant from root rot, poke a hole in the bottom of the wrapper or foil. Then put the container on a saucer. Or take the container to a sink, remove the packaging, and then water. Allow the water to drain freely from the holes in the bottom of the pot. After the pot has finished draining, replace the packaging.

Changing seasonal displays. Double potting makes changing seasonal plants a breeze. Fresh plants are easy to twist in and out of a large landscape container with multiple plants when weary. Double potting makes it possible to sink (or remove) individual potted plants into the landscape without disturbing the roots.

Combining systems with different requirements. Plants that have different soil drainage (aeration) requirements can be combined in a landscape planter if they are in their own separate pots. This allows for different watering practices for each plant. On the other hand, if there is not enough light, two sets of plants can be used. If individual plants begin to decline, turn them back to a higher light nursery. Replace them with healthy plants. It’s less work to select plants with similar environmental requirements or those that are well adapted to the available conditions. However, this is not always possible.

Reduce fluctuations in soil temperature. Roots are generally more susceptible to cold damage than stems and leaves. If you are overwintering an otherwise hardy plant, sink the potted plant into the ground. Then mulch the soil with wood chips, soil, or other material to help it survive the winter. Underground floor temperature does not fluctuate like container floors exposed to wind and temperature extremes.

Inhibition of invasive plants. Some plants are attractive but spread invasively through underground roots. They invade space that is not theirs. For example, most people love mints for their scent and culinary uses, but they can spread aggressively in the garden. Sink a large pot into the ground. Then place the invasive mint in a slightly smaller pot liner. This limits the spread of the roots.

Proptek has developed a wide range of air trimming containers and trays that are revolutionizing the propagation industry. But what is air pruning and how can it help you and your plans?

Plants did not evolve to grow in containers and as a result the roots produced in most containers are very poor. This causes many problems later in life and is often fatal. A number of techniques have been developed over the years to enhance roots, but none come close to the quality of roots from a Proptek tank. Plants grown in our containers have just as good a root (if not better!) than their ‘natural’ way of growth.

The benefits of aerial root pruning

Proptek tanks use a technique called “Air Pruning” to achieve these fantastic results. The advantages of air pruning are:

No chemicals, no toxicity

Cheap and affordable – the technology is built into the pot

Incredible results

Practical: Able to cover many formats and easily adaptable to the needs of any nursery.

How Air Root Pruning works

An air pruning tank works by having slits or holes in its walls along with a system of ribs or other devices to force the root to grow out of the slit or hole. As the root grows out of the slot into relatively dry air, its tip will be dried out or “killed”. Once this first root is air pruned, it loses its dominance and many secondary roots develop to replace it. These are then in turn air pruned and replaced with even more roots. The air pruning therefore forms a root system with a very large number of young, strong roots.

The simplest form of this is to simply grow roots out of the drainage hole in the bottom of the cell. However, most of our containers have vertical side vents per cell, which air prunes the roots on both the side of the cell and its bottom.

This is good as it creates a lot of secondary roots right to the side of the root ball. Large roots right at the root ball mean that after transplanting there will be a much larger number of roots that will quickly grow outwards giving the plant a big head start.

The benefits of a better root ball

The net result is that the plant establishes faster with a higher survival percentage and more even growth from plant to plant. Plants are also expected to develop a mature root system sooner and top growth has also been reported to be 20% to 25% greater than plants in a traditional pot. The reason for this is that when a better root system is developed with a large amount of younger, stronger roots that can eat/drink more and support more top growth.

Another advantage of the air cut is the improved ventilation and drainage via the holes in the container wall. For example, if you water too much, the excess water will drain away, so the plant won’t be left wet and unhappy for so long. The good ventilation of our special air pruning pots ensures a healthy microclimate to ensure the plants are as healthy and as strong as possible.

We believe this is the best root system available today and is the result of cell design. However, there is one additional thing you need to do in order to reap the benefits of “aerial root pruning.” You need to raise the tray off the ground to allow drier air to circulate around the outside of the cell to “kill” the protruding root tips.

Other methods of root pruning

However, there are other root pruning methods that can be found in the industry – all of which are inferior to aerial root pruning for a variety of reasons:

Greenery Unlimited self-watering planters.

Take the guesswork out of watering

Indoor plants have a problem. They rely on human attendants to provide water, light, nutrients, and pest control—essentially everything they need to survive. But humans are fickle, and it can be difficult to work out exactly how much water to give your plant at any given time. In fact, overwatering is the single main reason houseplants die.

Underwatered, or self-watering, planters take the guesswork out of watering by allowing plants to water themselves.

Houseplants are mostly tropical plants that have adapted to the low-light undergrowth of the forested regions around the equator. Because the weather is more constant in equatorial regions than anywhere else on earth, plants that we call “houseplants” generally have one thing in common: they don’t like change.

Eliminating inconsistencies = happy houseplants

The consistent care of plants is grueling work. You can’t exactly control how much light they’re getting unless you’re exclusively using a grow light, so their water needs are constantly changing. Two cups of water can be too much one week or too little the next. And this is the heart of the problem with indoor plants. They crave what most of their caregivers can’t provide: consistency. We’re busy and forget to water one week, and the next we overcompensate by giving the plant an “extra drink.” Then a week later we find that the soil is still very wet and we’ve watered too much, so we hold the water for another week and a bad cycle ensues. Self-watering planters eliminate watering inconsistency by allowing the plant to drink from a reservoir as needed. It also provides more consistent soil moisture for a longer period of time in the pot. As a caregiver, it becomes easier to know when to water as you only need to refill the tank when it is empty.

Understand soil irrigation

Sub-irrigation is a method where plants are watered from below instead of from above. Our self-watering planters use this method with a patented soil-watering liner that allows the soil to maintain a constant level of moisture at the bottom of the pot and for thirsty plants (if you look at your Ficus family) the roots can flow through the liner and grow directly into the reservoir for continuous access to water and nutrients.

To understand the whole process, it can be helpful to look into nature. Remember that when it rains, the soil absorbs moisture and gravity pulls the water into the lower soil layers and into clay and stone subsoil horizons. As the top layers of soil dry out, the plant’s deep root systems can draw water from the water reserves below, if needed. The water stored underground enables the plants to survive even in periods of drought because the roots still have access to water. Typical indoor planters don’t take advantage of this natural system, instead forcing the plant to rely on top watering when a human perceives the plant to be thirsty.

Self-watering planters use a sub-irrigation system to deliver the water directly to the plant roots without the guesswork. The water reservoir at the bottom of the planter allows the plant to drink at its own pace and gives caregivers a visual indication when it’s time to water with an empty reservoir.

The science

The science behind why sub-irrigation and self-watering planters work boils down to some basic botany. Plants take up water by osmosis and move it through the plant by capillary action and water potential differences. This whole process is called transpiration. If the roots aren’t in regular contact with water, they can’t draw water effectively enough to maintain the plants’ rigidity, which is why you may see your peace lily droop if it gets too dry. As any experienced plant parent can tell you, many environmental factors play a role in how quickly or slowly a plant transpires and uses water (light, warmth, humidity are just a few). Because of this, sub-irrigation really is the easiest way to ensure plants have ample access to water – the reservoir allows them to process water as needed. On darker, wetter days, the plant needs less water than on hot, dry days. With access to the reservoir, the plant does not have to rely on a human caretaker to make incremental changes to watering to accommodate changing environmental conditions.

So does every plant need a self-watering pot?

In our experience, mostly yes. The vast majority of tropical plant species prefer constant soil moisture levels and access to a water reservoir so they can control the rate of transpiration. Even plants with shallow root systems like cacti and succulents can thrive in our self-watering planter as long as they receive adequate light. Our patented liner combined with aeration stones provides excellent root aeration while drawing water into the subsoil, mimicking natural environmental conditions, even in desert landscapes.

Wet feet, dry ankles

A saying we have in our horticulture department says that most tropical plants like wet feet but dry ankles. You want access to water at the root level, but don’t want all of the soil in the pot to be saturated. Most plants prefer the top few inches of soil on the dry soil and only want to experience moisture at the immediate root level. The most common reason people kill their plants is overwatering – wet ankles and lack of air at the roots. A well-designed self-watering planter will have a separation between the water reservoir and the growing medium. To ensure water can get to the “feet” or lower root zone, a wicking material is used, such as aeration stones, which both absorb water and create air pockets in the lower layers of soil.