Tip Out Propagation Tray? Top 99 Best Answers

In our last video, we explored the best methods for conceal seeding. But what next?

Read on or watch our video to learn how you can help your seedlings develop into robust plants and make the transition to outdoor growing safely.

Prick out your seedlings

“Pricking out” means to weed out seedlings growing together and place them in their own plugs or pots of potting soil. Begin transplanting as soon as the seedlings are big enough to handle.

Fill planters or pots with high-quality, all-purpose soil. Gently detach the seedlings from the tray they grew in, then gently pull them apart. Try to keep as much of the original potting soil around the roots as possible. Work with small batches of seedlings so they don’t dry out while their roots are bare.

Make holes in the potting soil with your finger, a pencil or something similar. Gently lift each seedling, always handling by the leaves, never the tender stems. Carefully feed the roots all the way down into the hole, then gently press the seedling in place. You can bury part of the stem if the seedlings are looking a little leggy and puckered. This will help support them.

When finished, water the seedlings with a watering can or hose fitted with a fine rose. Don’t worry too much if the seedlings flatten out a bit, they will recover soon.

Choosing Seedling Containers: Plugs vs. Pots

Trays with smaller plugs are suitable for most lettuce plants, especially if transplanted immediately within three or four weeks of sowing. Larger plugs are suitable for larger, hungrier seedlings such as cabbage plants. They’re also great for other vegetables that benefit from growing a bit before planting, such as: B. Onions.

Larger seedlings or those of tender crops such as tomatoes or peppers, which will only be planted out after the last frost, are best pricked out in individual pots. They grow quickly and may need to be repotted before transplanting into their final growing positions.

Prepare seedlings for planting

Water seedlings to keep potting soil moist, but be careful not to overwater. If you’re growing in a greenhouse, tunnel, or cold frame, ventilate it on mild, sunny days. This helps keep the air moving inside, reducing the risk of disease and mold.

Cool season crops such as lettuce, onions, turnips or peas can go straight outside once the soil is ready, meaning the soil is no longer cold and wet and has reached around 10ºC. You can help encourage stronger seedlings in preparation for the move by occasionally gently stroking the seedlings with your hand.

Transplant seedlings while they are still quite young if outdoor conditions permit – sometimes as early as three to four weeks after sowing. Our garden planner can help you figure out when is the best time to transplant outdoors. Look at the green bars in your plant list for a set of recommended dates for your location.

Younger seedlings tend to establish more quickly than those that are root bound in their containers. Taking them outside when they are young will also free up valuable space under the covers. Still, keep a few spares under cover if you can—just in case.

hardening of plants

Tender plants need acclimatization before planting out – a process known as “hardening off”. Place the plants in a sheltered spot outside for a short time during the day. Gradually increase the time the plants are outside over the course of a week or two until they stay outside all day.

If you can’t be around during the day to bring your seedlings back in, another option is to place your seedlings in a cold frame and gradually increase the ventilation by opening the vents wider each day. Make sure you turn them off completely before it gets dark.

How to transplant seedlings

Plant seedlings in prepared soil—that is soil that has been enriched with well-rotted organic matter, such as compost. Remove the seedlings from their socket trays or pots and place them on the surface, ready for planting. You can use a tape measure or ruler to get the spacing right, but with practice you’ll be able to space them out by eye.

Use a hand trowel, spatula – or just your fingers – to poke holes in the bottom. Drop each seedling into its hole and secure it around the root ball. Lankier seedlings can be planted deeper as long as you don’t bury the lowest leaves. Water the newly planted area to settle the soil around the roots.

It is important that the root balls are moist before planting. If not, place the plugs in a bucket of water until soaked.

Protection of new transplants

At the beginning of the vegetation period, new plantings can be helped by simply covering them with row covers or garden fleece. This traps a little heat from the sun and helps protect the seedlings from low temperatures and drying winds. It also protects them from birds that love tender shoots. Fasten the covers so that they fit snugly against the plants and don’t flap around. Weight down the edges to prevent wind from creeping under the sides and lifting the cover. Remove the covers as soon as the weather warms up a bit. You may need to set up beer traps to avoid problems with snails and snails eating your seedlings.

Once your seedlings are planted you really get a sense of the abundance to come. How do you help your seedlings transition from indoors to outdoors? You can share all your tips and suggestions in the comments section below.

If you’re new to seeds, this foolproof beginner’s guide to planting seeds indoors will take you step-by-step quickly and easily from seed to harvest. You don’t need any fancy equipment or grow lights to get started, and you can even upcycle small containers to place your seeds in. All that is needed is a sunny window, a basic seed starter mix, and some drip under your pots to catch.

Just like the title says – this is a simple, no-nonsense guide to starting indoor seeds.

You don’t need to read gardening books beforehand. You don’t need fancy equipment. All you need is your seeds (these are the best garden seed catalogs I order from every year) and a few basic supplies to get started.

Whether you have a special vegetable patch in your garden or a cluster of containers on your patio, it all starts the same way. You need to plant your seeds, and germinating seeds in your home (where you have the most control) is the best way to do that.

Planting seeds indoors is ideal when you want to get a head start on the season or when the weather is still too hot or too cold to get anything into the ground.

See also: Find the exact date of the first and last frost with this custom planting calendar

This simple step-by-step tutorial will take you from seed to seedling with a minimum of fuss. Only the things you need to know and nothing you don’t know. (But if you’re the type that really needs to know, I’ve added footnotes at the end to explain why you do what you do.)

Disclosure: All products on this site are independently selected. If you buy through one of my links, I may earn a commission.

How to grow seeds indoors: a step by step guide

Step 1: Gather Your Seed Starting Supplies.

seed

Cultivation pots or cell trays

plant markers

Seed starting mix (homemade or store-bought)

Seed tray with humidity dome (often called a 1020 plant tray or propagation tray, or use a DIY plastic-wrapped drainage tray)

Spray bottle or squirt bottle filled with water

If you’ve already made your recycled newspaper pots, you’re done. If you use other seed pots or trays, make sure they are clean.1

You can also convert household items into seed containers, like egg cartons, dixie cups, and yogurt cups. Just wash them out and poke a few drainage holes in the ground with a nail or awl.

Step 2: Fill your pots or trays with seed starting mix.

Place your seed starting mix in a large tub or bucket, pour in a generous amount of water and stir with your hands or a trowel.

As the seed starting mix begins to absorb moisture, add more water as needed. (This takes a few minutes as peat-based starting mixes are slow to absorb.) You want the mix to be evenly moist, like wet sand.

Fill your seedling pots with this pre-moistened seed starting mix.2

Step 3: Sow your seeds.

Place 2-4 seeds on the surface of the seed starter mix and gently press down on the seeds so they nest well together.

If your seeds are very small, like basil or mustard, you can leave them uncovered.3

If your seeds are larger (like beans or peas) or need darkness to germinate (read instructions on seed packets), cover them with a layer of vermiculite or seed starting mix equal to their height, usually 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch Customs service.

Step 4: Label your newly planted seeds.

Label each pot. Trust me you will never remember what you planted where as most seedlings look the same at birth.

At this early stage, cheap plastic plant markers work very well and stay out of the way, so save your big and beautiful metal garden plant markers.

Step 5: Keep your seeds moist and warm.

Spray your seeds with water.4

Assemble your pots in a seed tray (or use a disposable aluminum skillet, baking pan, even the plastic tray your lettuce came in) and cover with a humidity dome (or just plain old plastic wrap).5

If your dome has vents, leave them open to aid in air circulation during germination.

Now you need to add heat. Since sunlight isn’t essential at this time, your seed trays can be placed where it’s warmest in your home, e.g. B. in the attic, bathroom, laundry room or kitchen.6

If your seedling pots stay covered in a warm corner, the low humidity will keep your seeds happy until they sprout. High humidity makes them sad. Spray the seeds with more water only when the mixture feels dry.7

Within a few days to a few weeks, the seeds will germinate. As your seedlings begin to grow, some of them will look like they are wearing little seed hats.

Germination (the process of germinating a seed) is highly variable, so don’t stress if it feels like it’s going to take forever. In most cases, seeds will germinate within three weeks (try starting a new seed round after that).

Step 6: Provide light to your new seedlings.

At this stage, the newly sprouted seedlings need light. Remove the humidity dome or plastic wrap and place the seedlings in the sunniest spot in your home (preferably a south-facing window).

Keep the mixture moist but not too wet. Seedlings should be watered once a day or every other day depending on how much sun and heat they get.

Keep in mind that the roots of the seedlings are fairly close to the surface and grow in a small amount of substrate, so they don’t need to be deeply soaked like larger plants.

I like to use spray bottles or squirt bottles as the gentle jets of water don’t dislodge seeds or damage seedlings.

Step 7: Moving Day! Transplant the strongest seedlings when ready.

After your seedlings have developed their first “true set” of leaves, they are ready to be transplanted.8

If more than one seed has sprouted, select the strongest and pinch or cut off the others. You can even keep them all, but be careful when separating the roots when the seedlings are close together.

Plant the seedling in a larger container filled with potting soil. Hold it by the cotyledons (the first leaves to appear) and try not to injure the tiny roots.

At this stage, you can lightly saturate the potting soil with a diluted solution of compost tea or all-purpose fertilizer. Keep it simple, keep it organic, and don’t pay too much attention to the nutrients.9

Give the seedling plenty of sunlight each day (at least 12 to 16 hours is optimal for most vegetable seedlings) to avoid the “leggy” look. (Learn how to fix leggy seedlings if this happens to you.)10

Step 8: Harden off these seedlings.

To prepare your seedling for a good outdoor life, you can start hardening off the seedling11 by placing it outside under diffused light for a few hours and bringing it back indoors each night.

Move her from diffuse sun to partial sun to full sun over the next week and for longer periods of time until she eventually stays out all night.

Step 9: Plant your seedlings outdoors.

After the hardening period, you can transplant your seedling to its final destination, be it straight into your garden or into a larger container.

And then, in a few months, you’ll be able to enjoy the fruits (and veggies) of your loving labor!

More Ways to Sow Seeds Indoors There is more than one way to sow your seeds and make sure they germinate! Germinate Seeds Fast With Coffee Filters or Paper Towel Whether you’re trying to grow difficult seeds with long germination times or trying to figure out if your old seeds are still viable, the coffee filter (or bag) method is a quick and easy way to get around start many seeds at once in a small space. Continue reading How to Start Seeds in Egg Shells, Save Money, and Have Fun Save those broken eggshells, recycle your egg carton, and bookmark this indoor gardening DIY for a rainy day. Planting seeds in egg shells is a fun and easy project that kids will love to help with! Read more How to Soak Seeds to Speed ​​up Germination Time If you’ve had trouble with seeds that won’t germinate, soaking them in water before you sow them can greatly increase their chances of germinating. This method works well with legumes, beets, squash, and other thick-skinned seeds. Continue reading How Long Do Seeds Last? (+ Seed expiry date cheat sheet) How old is too old? All seeds have a shelf life, but their longevity depends on the quality and condition when you bought them or kept them and how they have been stored since. Find out if you should keep or throw away your seed stash. Continue reading

1 This seems obvious, but laziness overwhelms us. Clean pots are key and will help keep infestations at bay (an untreatable fungal disease that causes seedlings to suddenly topple over and die on the soil line).

Discard or thoroughly wash any pots that previously housed diseased plants. Avoid using leftover soil from the nursery container you brought home as it could harbor weed seeds and bad bacteria.

If you have a healthy garden, you can skip washing your pots and simply remove the dirt from your pots before using them again.

I’ve put countless seed trays and humidity domes to the test over the years and have found these trays and domes to be the thickest and strongest on the market – they don’t bend, bend or break as easily as other brands and can be reused for many seasons . the back

2 It is easier to start with pre-moistened mix as peat-based mixes are more difficult to evenly moisten when drying out in pots. Although peat has a very high water holding capacity when wet, it actually repels water when dry. Imagine that.

Unless you’re using a homemade seed starting mix, this is a reputable brand that I like. You don’t need anything special; Seeds only need a base mix of perlite, vermiculite, and peat moss (or coir) to germinate and grow into healthy seedlings. the back

3 Light often accelerates germination (the process by which a plant sprouts from a seed) in certain types of plants. the back

4 The moisture will help the seeds shed their protective coating and eventually germinate. the back

5 This creates a greenhouse effect to keep your seeds moist and warm, which is key to germination. Most annual vegetables germinate best at temperatures of 25-35°C. Some, such as B. Radish, germinate at lower temperatures.

Seeds sometimes germinate at less than ideal temperatures, but germination time will be longer. the back

6 I like to put my seed trays on the ground next to my fan heater. Some gardening guides suggest putting your tray on top of a fridge, but most appliances these days are energy efficient and don’t emit much heat. the back

7 Too much water causes the seeds to rot. If your makeshift greenhouse looks a little too wet inside, remove the cover or plastic wrap for a few hours during the warmest part of the day to allow air circulation. Mold is also not good for seeds. the back

8 The true leaves are actually the second group of leaves that appear; The first leaves that initially unfold are not leaves at all, but cotyledons. These leaf life structures are part of the seed’s embryo and provide nourishment for the seedling until its true leaves begin the process of photosynthesis. the back

9 I like to use home-brewed compost tea or liquid seaweed. No fertilizer is fine too, especially if you’re starting with good soil. I grew healthy vegetables without fertilizer for an entire season and could barely keep up with the harvest. the back

10 It sounds sexy, but it makes your seedling tall and weak as it directs its energy into striving for sunlight. I also like to gently run my hands over the top of my seedling to simulate a breeze; This slows initial growth and strengthens the trunk. A few brushes a day are enough. the back

11 Hardening is the process of gradually acclimating the seedling to its future outdoor environment…introducing it to the breeze, the birds, and the bees. the back

Skip to content The No-Fail Beginner’s Guide to Starting Seeds Indoors Print If you are new to seed growing, this foolproof beginner’s guide to starting seeds indoors will take you step-by-step quickly and easily from seed to harvest . Prep Time 15 minutes Active Time 15 minutes Total Time 30 minutes Difficulty Easy Materials Seeds

Cultivation pots or cell trays

plant markers

Seed starting mix (homemade or store-bought)

Seed tray with humidity dome (often called a 1020 plant tray or propagation tray, or use a DIY plastic-wrapped drainage tray)

Spray bottle or squirt bottle filled with water Tools Large bucket or tub

Instructions for the Trowel Gather your starting seed supplies. Instead of seed pots, you can use recycled newspaper pots or convert household items into seed start containers, like egg cartons, dixie cups, and yogurt cups. Just wash them out and poke a few drainage holes in the ground with a nail or awl.

Fill your pots or trays with seed starting mix. Place your seed starting mix in a large tub or bucket, pour in a generous amount of water and stir with your hands or a trowel.

As the seed starting mix begins to absorb moisture, add more water as needed. (This takes a few minutes as peat-based starting mixes are slow to absorb.) You want the mix to be evenly moist, like wet sand.

Fill your seedling pots with this pre-moistened seed starting mix.

Sow your seeds. Place 2-4 seeds on the surface of the seed starter mix and gently press down on the seeds so they nest well together.

If your seeds are very small, like basil or mustard, you can leave them uncovered.

If your seeds are larger (like beans or peas) or need darkness to germinate (read instructions on seed packets), cover them with a layer of vermiculite or seed starting mix equal to their height, usually 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch Customs service.

Label your newly planted seeds. Label each pot. At this early stage, cheap plastic plant markers work very well and stay out of the way, so save your big and beautiful metal garden plant markers.

Keep your seeds moist and warm. Spray your seeds with water.

Assemble your pots in a seed tray (or use a disposable aluminum skillet, baking pan, even the plastic shell your lettuce came in) and cover with a humidity dome (or just plain old plastic wrap). If your dome has vents, leave them open to aid in air circulation during germination.

Now you need to add heat. Since sunlight isn’t essential at this time, your seed trays can be placed where it’s warmest in your home, e.g. B. in the attic, in the bathroom, in the laundry room or in the kitchen.

If your seedling pots stay covered in a warm corner, the low humidity will keep your seeds happy until they sprout. High humidity makes them sad. Only spritz the seeds with more water if the mixture feels dry to the touch.

Within a few days to a few weeks, the seeds will germinate. Germination (the process of germinating a seed) is highly variable, so don’t stress if it feels like it’s going to take forever. In most cases, seeds will germinate within three weeks (try starting a new seed round after that).

Give your new seedlings light. At this stage, the newly sprouted seedlings need light. Remove the humidity dome or plastic wrap and place the seedlings in the sunniest spot

space in your home (preferably a south-facing window).

Keep the mixture moist but not too wet. Seedlings should be watered once a day or every other day depending on how much sun and heat they get. Keep in mind that the roots of the seedlings are fairly close to the surface and grow in a small amount of substrate, so they don’t need to be deeply soaked like larger plants.

Moving day! Transplant the strongest seedlings when ready. After your seedlings have developed their first “true set” of leaves, they are ready to be transplanted.

If more than one seed has sprouted, select the strongest and pinch or cut off the others. You can even keep them all, but be careful when separating the roots when the seedlings are close together.

Plant the seedling in a larger container filled with potting soil. Hold it by the cotyledons (the first leaves to appear) and try not to injure the tiny roots.

At this stage, you can lightly saturate the potting soil with a diluted solution of compost tea or all-purpose fertilizer.

Give the seedling plenty of sunlight each day (at least 12 to 16 hours is optimal for most vegetable seedlings) to avoid the “leggy” look. (Learn how to fix leggy seedlings if this happens to you.)

Harden off these seedlings. To prepare your seedling for a good outdoor life, you can start hardening off the seedling by placing it outside under diffused light for a few hours and bringing it back inside each night.

Move her from diffuse sun to partial sun to full sun over the next week and for longer periods of time until she eventually stays out all night.

Transplant your seedlings outdoors. After the hardening period, you can transplant your seedling to its final destination, be it straight into your garden or a larger one

Container. did you do this project? Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Instagram

What you should know after your seeds germinate

Check out the webstory on the beginning of indoor seeds.

This post has been updated from an article originally published on March 19, 2011.

If you’re looking for seed trays to germinate seeds for your garden, chances are you’ve seen the phrase “standard size” or “1020”. Although this wording is common, the exact meaning can vary somewhat.

So what size is a standard seed tray? A standard size seed tray (1020) is slightly larger than 10 inches long and 20 inches wide. For example, a standard size seed tray might be 11 inches long by 21 inches wide and 2 to 2.5 inches deep. Sometimes seed trays have separate compartments (cells) for each seed or group of seeds. This will make it easier to later transplant the seedlings.

Of course, many different seed pan sizes are available, so a standard 1020 seed pan is not your only option. For example, there are 1010 seed trays and seed trays that hold round pots instead of having square cells.

In this article we are talking about standard size seed trays. We’ll also take a closer look at the dimensions available, as well as some other frequently asked questions about seed trays.

Let’s start.

What size is a standard seed tray (which means 1020)?

A standard-size seed tray (also called a “1020” tray) is slightly larger than 25 cm x 51 cm (10 in x 20 in) and 5.1 to 6.4 cm (2 to 2.5 in) deep. .

A standard seed tray is just over 10 inches long and just over 20 inches wide.

The term “1020” refers to the length and width of the tablet, which are approximately 10 inches and 20 inches. A standard seed tray is often slightly longer in both length and width.

For example, these seed trays from Johnny’s Selected Seeds are 11 inches (28 centimeters) long and 21 inches (53 centimeters) wide. This creates a little extra room around the edges of the tray and a slightly larger size for individual cells (if any).

As you can see, the Johnny’s Selected seed trays mentioned above come as one large tray. The shells do not have individual compartments (cells) to separate the seeds.

A seed tray without separate cells is perfect for growing microgreens.

This type of tray is a perfect option for growing microgreens. This is because microgreens do not require their own individual cells.

Instead, the seeds can grow all together in a large “field” of soil mix. (The purpose of microgreens is to harvest them by cutting off the tops rather than transplanting them at a later date).

On the other hand, these Bootstrap Farmer 1020 seed trays have separate cells for individual plants. This makes it much easier to disperse seeds properly.

It also makes transplanting plant plugs easier without damaging the roots of your plants. Since each seedling is in its own cell, the roots of individual plants do not tangle with each other.

If each seedling has its own cell, the roots will not get tangled and transplanting will be easier.

There are 50 separate cells in this seed tray (which is 5 cells long and 10 cells wide). The cell dimensions for this seed tray are 1.75 inches by 1.75 inches (4.45 centimeters by 4.45 centimeters) with a height of 2.25 inches (5.72 centimeters).

Each cell has a 0.25 inch (0.64 centimeter) drainage hole that prevents the soil in the cell from holding too much water. The drainage hole also helps remove the seedling and soil when it’s time to transplant outdoors for spring planting.

You can even place the entire seed tray in a corresponding 1020 seed tray (no compartments). Then you can water the seedlings from below by adding water to the bottom tray.

This way you don’t have to worry about overwatering a cell and killing your seedlings before they can grow.

How deep should a seed tray be?

A seed tray should be 2 to 3 inches deep depending on what you are growing and when you plan to transplant.

The University of Maryland suggests seed trays should be at least 2 inches deep. On the other hand, the University of Iowa suggests using at least 3 inches of soil to start seeds.

Seed trays should be at least 2 to 3 inches deep. Be sure to make holes for drainage if there are none.

However, according to Johnny’s Selected Seeds, you should avoid pots that are too deep. The reason? You want them to be able to drain well (if the soil is left too wet, seeds can rot and seedling roots can’t get enough air).

Your seed tray should be deep enough to hold enough soil for seeds to start, plus a little room at the top for watering. Otherwise the water can run right over the soil and over the edges of the bowl.

The depth of the seed tray also depends on the type of plant and when it will be transplanted.

Deeper trays leave more room for roots to grow deep. They also give you more time before you need to transplant, which can be helpful in cold climates.

Remember that larger seeds will need to be buried deeper. You can learn more about how deep to plant seeds in my article here.

The sowing depth depends on the type of seed.

Of course, you can also repot certain plants (like tomatoes) into larger containers after they outgrow their seed tray cells. That way you can keep them indoors until it’s time to transplant them outside.

You can use this page from the Old Farmer’s Almanac to find the date of the last spring frost in your area to get an idea of ​​when to transplant outside.

Do 1020 seed trays need holes?

A 1020 seed tray should have holes to allow for proper drainage. Otherwise the soil will remain too wet.

This can cause seeds to rot before they germinate, seedling death, or root rot (which occurs when wet soil prevents roots from getting air).

Seedlings can suffer from falling over if they get too wet.

Image courtesy of:

INAKAvillage211 by:

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/file:

Pinus_taeda_seedling_

Attenuation_off_(cropped).jpg

What other seed tray sizes are available?

There are many other options if you decide to purchase a seed tray with different dimensions or cell counts.

For example, you can find seed trays with as little as 4 cells or as many as 200 cells!

There are many different types of seed trays to choose from, including ones that hold several larger round pots.

Let’s examine some of these seed tray sizes in more detail.

1010 seed tray

A 1010 seed tray has dimensions of just over 10 inches by 10 inches (25.4 centimeters by 25.4 centimeters). These trays are square and often compatible with 1020 trays.

This means you can mount two 1010 seed pans side by side on a 1020 seed pan.

A 1010 seed pod is just over 10 inches long and 10 inches wide.

These Bootstrap Farmer 1010 Seed Trays also have drainage holes to prevent overwatering or to allow watering from a reservoir underneath the tray.

The tray dimensions are 10.5 inches long by 10.5 inches wide by 2.5 inches deep (26.7 centimeters long by 26.7 centimeters wide by 6.4 centimeters deep).

1020 mesh pot tray

If you are looking to grow plants in separate round pots for hydroponics or traditional soil gardening then the 1020 Net Pot Tray is a great option.

A 1020 mesh pot tray holds 32 2-inch round pots – a great option if you want to give your seedlings more space and time to grow indoors.

Instead of square cells, these trays have circular holes to accommodate individual round pots. These pots are larger than the standard square cells.

The larger pot size allows you to give seedlings more space and more time to grow indoors. This helps compensate for late spring frosts or a short growing season that are common in northern regions.

This Bootstrap Farmer 1020 Net Pot Tray fits 32 2-inch round pots. The tray is 4 pots long and 8 pots wide, with cells spaced about 0.5 inches apart.

These mesh pots fit perfectly in a standard 1020 tray which allows for under watering (when using traditional soil gardening). It can also be used in a soilless growing system (such as hydroponics, aquaponics, or aeroponics).

6 cell (2×3) plug tray inserts

These smaller Bootstrap Farmer 6 cell trays are perfect if you want to keep different plants in separate trays but grow in the same space.

Each cell in the shell is 1.5 inches by 1.5 inches (3.8 centimeters by 3.8 centimeters) at the top, tapering to 1 inch by 1 inch (2.5 centimeters by 2.5 centimeters) at the bottom. The height is 2.25 inches (5.7 centimeters).

The inserts are designed to fit 12 of them in a standard 1020 tray, allowing for bottom watering.

What are the best seed trays?

In my opinion some of the best seed trays are made by Proptek. Their seed trays are made of a durable black plastic that won’t break down or disintegrate in sunlight.

This is helpful for dedicated gardeners who want to start seeding indoors year after year. It’s also nice for budget gardeners who don’t want to pay for new seed trays every year.

Proptek sells its heavy-duty 162-cell seed trays on its own website, but you’ll need to buy them in bulk if you go this route. You have to ask for the prices, and they have a certain minimum order quantity.

On the other hand, you can also buy 162 cell Proptek seed trays (and other sizes) from retailers like Greenhouse Megastore.

Humidity domes for seed trays

A humidity dome is a plastic cover used to trap moisture in a small area to help seeds germinate. Moisture domes are sized to match appropriate seed tray dimensions.

For example, this Bootstrap Farmer 1020 humidity dome fits over a standard 1020 seed tray.

Moisture domes are helpful because they make it easier to maintain high soil moisture levels for germinating seeds. You can also keep seeds or seedlings warmer by creating a “greenhouse effect” if you have grow lights over your seed trays (which might be a good idea as seedlings need light to grow).

See my article on humidity domes for more information.

A word of caution is necessary. Be careful when mixing and matching bowls and humidity domes.

If you buy devices from different companies, there may be slight differences in dimensions. Sometimes these differences result in a dome or insert not quite fitting on a tray.

Another indoor growing option (without trays).

There is another option for indoor growing that is a little different from the seed trays discussed so far. This alternative method is the grow bag.

A grow bag is made of durable fabric material such as canvas. It is used to hold soil and plants.

A grow bag is made from a fabric material such as canvas or burlap.

A grow bag can be used to grow either one large plant or multiple smaller plants. Larger grow bags can even be used to hold dwarf fruit trees or to grow larger fruit trees indoors.

Growbags can be used indoors, outdoors or even planted directly into the ground. Growbags prevent plants from becoming “root bound” like standard plastic or clay containers do.

They are reusable and can last for years with proper cleaning and care.

As an alternative to a plastic seed tray, you may be able to use a flat grow bag to sow the seeds indoors.

Check out my article on why grow bags are used for more information.

How many seeds should you put in each cell of a seed coat? (How many seeds in a seed coat?)

For seeds with a high germination rate, you really only need one seed per cell in a seed tray. In a 162 cell dish, a 95% germination rate means you only have about 8 empty cells (where the seeds haven’t germinated).

Remember that older seeds have a lower germination rate. Some seeds only stay viable for a year!

If your seeds have a low germination rate I would suggest planting two seeds per cell in a seed tray. In this way, there is a very high probability that at least one seed will germinate in each cell.

This means you won’t have many, if any, empty cells. However, to avoid competition between plants, it’s a good idea to “thin” the seedlings by removing any excess.

If two seedlings start growing in one cell, wait a few days and watch them. Then grow the stronger one and pull out the weaker one.

If two seeds sprout in one cell, it is better to leave the strongest one and get rid of the others.

It seems cruel, and it can be difficult for gardeners to do! However, if you don’t thin out the seedlings, the roots of the two seedlings will intertwine.

This makes it difficult to separate them later for transplanting. Worse, the two seedlings compete for resources (water and soil nutrients).

Ultimately, this results in two plants that are both smaller and weaker than a dominant plant would have been. So make sure to thin out your seedlings when the time comes!

What happens if you plant seeds too close together?

If you plant seeds too close together you will see overcrowding and competition in your seed trays. The roots of individual plants will become tangled with each other, making it difficult to separate them later.

This makes it much more likely that the roots of some plants will be damaged during transplanting. This, in turn, will cause more plants to wilt and die when exposed to the harsher outdoor conditions if you try to harden them off in the spring.

You can avoid this problem by using seed trays with separate cells (as long as you thin out the seedlings if two or more are growing in one cell).

If your seed tray doesn’t have separate cells, you need to make sure you’re using the correct spacing for the seeds. Consult online or on the seed packet to find the recommended seed spacing for the plants you are growing.

This table from the USDA (on page 2) gives some suggested cell sizes for starting seeds of various types, including:

broccoli

lettuce

onions

pepper

tomatoes

The depth of planting for seeds depends on the plant species.

Conclusion

Now you know what size a standard seed tray is, and you also know what the cryptic phrase “1020” refers to. In addition, you will be familiar with some of the other seed tray dimension options available.

If you want to learn more about seed trays, how to water them and how to make your own, read my article here.

Here are answers to some frequently asked questions about seed trays.

You can also find more ideas for making your own seed trays in my article here.

I hope you found this article helpful – if so, please share it with someone who can use the information.

If you want to read some of my most popular posts, check out the Best of GreenUpSide page here. Enjoy!

~ Jonathon

This post contains affiliate links. Read our privacy policy here.

It is important to be able to recognize when it is time to transplant seedlings from the nursery tray to a larger pot. Transplanting seedlings a few weeks after starting should be part of your seed starting routine.

We set the seeds in smaller containers because that way we have much better control of humidity and temperature and if you’ve heard me talk a lot about setting seeds then you know my motto is that humidity and temperature are the most important factors for good germination.

But once the seeds sprout, they quickly outgrow their seed starting container. It would not be a good idea to continue growing them in a pot that is too small. They will become nutrient poor and their roots will grow round and round into a large knot.

Transplanting them into larger pots will help them develop healthier roots and grow faster. By not restricting their growth indoors, you train them to grow big and strong when it’s time to put them in the garden.

But how do you know when to repot seedlings?

There are a few simple things to look out for that will tell your plants need a bigger pot.

1. You have a set or two of real leaves

The ideal time to transplant your seedlings is around 3 weeks after germination or when you have 1-2 sets of true leaves. It is better to move them to new containers before they show the signs of stress listed below.

2. The cotyledons turn yellow and fall off

Cotyledons are the first leaves to emerge from a seed. They are different from the “real leaves”. True leaves are the second and subsequent sets of leaves that grow after the cotyledons emerge.

It’s normal for cotyledons to yellow and fall off, but if they do when you only have 1 or 2 pairs of leaves, your plants really need to be transplanted.

3. The true leaves turn yellow

It’s definitely time to transplant when the true leaves are yellow. This is a sure sign that your plants are starving for nutrients.

4. The roots are wrapped around and around the root ball

You definitely want to see roots in your growing medium when it comes time to plant, but if they circle around the edges of the root ball, they’ll get too tight.

5. They’re crowded

You don’t want to overcrowd your plants when they are young. Some plants grow taller than others and this affects how much light others get. You will also get the bigger plants which will secrete all the nutrients and this will also stunt the growth of your other plants.

Why transplant the seedlings at all?

You may be wondering why we even bother to transplant seedlings? Why not just give them some fertilizer, or better yet, start them in a larger container?

You will be much more successful at germinating seeds if you grow them in small containers. This gives you more control over the temperature and humidity in the seed hopper. We have found that we have much better germination rates in the smaller cell trays compared to using other types of seed starting containers.

You can dose your plants with some fertilizer, but this will encourage growth. They’re already telling you they need more space, why stress them out by making them grow taller in the same small space?

Both options are viable alternatives, but you’ll have healthier plants if you transplant instead.

How to repot seedlings

Transplanting seedlings is quite simple. All you need is a new container and some potting soil. We recommend a container twice the size it is now and a good quality potting soil such as Fox Farm Ocean Forest.

We like to mix the potting soil and seed starter mix in a 50/50 ratio. This is especially helpful for young seedlings that still have tender roots.

Before filling your containers, moisten your soil mix to ensure even watering after planting. Then nest your seedling in the new container, filling in around the base of the plant and pressing down to set well and remove air pockets.

For tomatoes, bury the stem, leaving only 1 or 2 pairs of leaves above the soil line. For everyone else, plant them level or bury the stem about 1/4 inch or less.

Water your transplanted seedlings well and put them back under the light.

What about fertilizing seedlings?

You can fertilize young seedlings after transplanting as needed. Use a liquid organic fertilizer diluted in half. If they can handle half strength and seem like they need more, you can increase it to full strength.

Don’t fertilize your seedlings until after you’ve transplanted them. You don’t want to stimulate growth in too small a space.

Are you transplanting or transplanting your seedlings?

Tell us about your experience in the comments below!

In late spring I’m a pot queen! I use Plug Flats and Cell Packs to start my vegetable, flower and herb seeds – they’re extremely space efficient – but they don’t offer much root room. After 6 to 8 weeks under the grow lights, many of the seedlings will need to be repotted into larger containers to ensure continued healthy growth until it’s time to move them into the garden.

You’ll know your seedlings are ready to be transplanted when their roots have filled their current containers and their foliage is crowding out their neighbors. Still not sure? Use a butter knife to lift a plant out of its pot and take a look at the roots. When they are well developed and enclosing the soil ball, it is time to repot.

Transplanting your seedlings into larger containers will help ensure a healthy root system and quality transplants for your garden. New containers should be about twice the size of the old ones.

Repot 101:

Gather all your supplies first (pots, potting soil, tags, waterproof marker, butter knife) so transplanting is quick and efficient.

Water seedlings before starting. Moist soil clings to the roots and protects them from damage and drying out.

No tugging! Do not pull the baby plants out of their cells or plant trays. Use a butter knife, a narrow trowel, or even just a long nail to poke the seedlings out of their containers.

If you have more than one seedling in your container, gently pull them apart to repot.

Put them in the new pot and lightly press down on the soil.

Have a stack of labels ready and give each pot a fresh label. Alternatively, use a permanent marker to write the plant’s name on the side of the pot.

Water with a diluted liquid fertilizer to establish roots in the new soil and encourage healthy growth.

Do you have any other tips for repotting?

A propagation box, propagation chamber, or propagator is something that can be used for rooting plant cuttings. It works like a mini greenhouse, protecting plant cuttings and giving them enough moisture to survive until they root. In this post, I will show you how to make a homemade greenhouse and use it for growing from cuttings as well.

Some plants are easy to propagate by simply sticking a cut stem in water. However, some types of cuttings will only rot if you try to root them in water because they need a more controlled environment.

This is where a propagation box comes in handy and makes rooting cuttings that much easier! There are many different types and styles of propagation boxes. Some are very fancy (and expensive) and others are not so fancy but cheap (or free!).

I made my own DIY plant propagation box using materials I got for free and it works great.

How to make a propagation box

It sounds complicated, but making a propagation chamber for cuttings is actually quite simple. You only need a few utensils and you may even have everything you need at hand!

Here’s what you need, along with steps on how to make a propagator for cuttings…

Supplies are needed:

Clear plastic container with lid

Rooting medium for cuttings (a seed starting mix also works great)

water

Drill (if needed to drill holes in the lid)

Step 1: Prepare the propagation box – Find or purchase a clear plastic storage container with a lid and wash with soap and water.

It’s important that the container is completely clear to allow light to reach the cuttings. The size of the box doesn’t matter that much, but make sure you buy one big enough for your use.

Think about what types of cuttings you want to use it on and get a box big enough for them.

Step 2: Add the Rooting Medium – Add a 3-4 inch layer of the medium and spread it evenly over the bottom of the box.

You can make your own rooting medium yourself using peat moss or coco coir, perlite or pumice and vermiculite. If you want a ready-made rooting mixture for cuttings, potting soil is also ideal.

However, do not use regular potting soil. It is usually too heavy to use in a grow box and can cause your cuttings to rot.

Step 3: Add Water – Dampen the rooting mix with a gentle spray of water. Don’t pour or spray too quickly or the medium could make a mess.

The rooting mix should be moist but not soggy. If you’ve added too much water to your grow box, you can leave the lid off the box for a day or two to allow the excess water to evaporate before adding cuttings.

How to use a propagator for cuttings

Now that you have your DIY propagation box set up and ready, it’s time to add some plant cuttings! Here are the steps you should take to be successful at rooting any type of cuttings you want to propagate!

Step 1: Add Plant Cuttings – Dip the stem of the cuttings in rooting hormone before placing them in the box.

Rooting hormone helps cuttings root faster and more reliably. Make a hole in the medium with your finger (so the rooting hormone doesn’t rub off) and insert the cutting into the hole.

Slightly press the medium around the base of the cutting to ensure it touches the stem and that the cutting stays in place.

Step 2: Put the Lid on the Box – If the storage container you plan to use for your DIY greenhouse is airtight, add some ventilation holes in the lid to prevent mold growth.

However, do not drill very many holes. Otherwise your grow box may dry out too quickly and your cuttings may not root.

You may want to wait until you’ve used the cuttings box a few times before adding ventilation holes to see how well it retains moisture.

Step 3: Give It Some Light – Place your DIY greenhouse in a spot where it will get plenty of light, but keep it out of direct sunlight.

An area near a sunny window is the perfect spot in the house. Outside it should be kept in the shade. If you don’t have a lot of light in your house, hang a grow light over the top of the box.

I use a shop light with plant bulbs in it, but you could use a plant light system to make it easier. Connect to a socket timer to give your cuttings the perfect amount of light each day.

Step 4: Add Bottom Heat – A bottom thermometer to monitor the temperature of the medium is a good idea. Many types of cuttings will not root if it is too cold.

If that’s the case, consider adding bottom heat for rooting cuttings. Bottom heat accelerates the rooting process enormously.

To make your own DIY heated greenhouse, you can place the box on a heat mat or near a heater fan in winter (be careful if it’s near a fan as the heat will dry out the soil in your grow box faster ). .

Check your cuttings every few days to see if there are any new plant roots and to monitor the moisture in the medium.

The rooting medium should never be soggy or completely dry. It is best to keep the medium constantly moist.

I recommend getting an inexpensive soil moisture meter to monitor the moisture level of the medium. You can add water by slowly pouring it inside the box or nebulizing it with a spray bottle.

Related post: How to propagate spider plants

What plants can you root in your homemade propagator?

There are many different types of plants that are easy to root with a home grow chamber. I use mine primarily for propagating houseplants, but you can also use them for rooting perennials, herbs, or annual cuttings.

I use my propagation box for everything except succulents. The box is too damp for them and they just rot. Learn how to propagate succulents here.

My homemade plant propagation system

If you’re really serious about stopping the spread, then you might be interested in building a larger system like I did. First I built several homemade heated greenhouses and then put them in my mini greenhouse.

My little propagation greenhouse sits near a south-facing window in the guest bedroom. It’s the perfect setup for growing as many cuttings as I want and fun to experiment with different types of plants.

Whenever I cut a plant or break off a piece, I put the cuttings in one of my grow boxes. I check the boxes every few days to see if there are any new roots and to monitor the moisture level of the medium.

Related Post: Beginner’s Guide to Gardening on a Budget (19 Cheap DIY Tips)

Where to find a propagation chamber for sale

Maybe this all sounds like too much hassle for you and you just want to buy a ready-made system.

Well you are in luck as there are many options out there. Plant propagation trays or trays can usually be found at any garden center in the same department where they sell seed starting equipment.

But you will find more variety and even some sophisticated plant propagation kit options online. You can buy a basic dispersal dome if that’s all you need.

Or you could purchase a complete system like this large heated grow kit or heated grow tray with a grow light.

If you are serious about growing from cuttings then you definitely need a propagation box. It’s super easy to make your own propagator, or you can buy one instead.

Either way, it’s fun to experiment with rooting all your favorite plants to see how many you can grow from cuttings.

Would you like to learn how to propagate all your favorite plants? Then you will love my Plant Propagation eBook! It contains everything you need to know to start propagating any plant. Download your copy today!

More information on plant propagation

Share your DIY propagation chamber plans or add your tips on using a propagation box in the comments section below.

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I’ve been gardening and writing about gardening for more than 20 years, but I find I always learn new things about the plants, insects, and other creatures that call my garden home. That’s the great thing about gardening – it never gets boring! I’ve worked as a landscaper, on an organic farm, as a research technician in a plant pathology lab, and run a small cut flower business, all of which influence my gardening. Someone once asked me when I would be done with my gardens, to which I replied, “Never!” For me, gardening is a process, not a goal.

A seed starter kit, like the A seed starter kit, like the GrowEase Seed Starter Kit makes it easy to grow vigorous, healthy seedlings.

I’ve spoken to so many gardeners who have experience growing plants outdoors but are reluctant to seed indoors. To me, starting seeds is one of the most rewarding parts of gardening. It gets into the soil (or at least the seed mix) during the dark, cold days of late winter and early spring. And it’s so amazing and rewarding to plant a seemingly lifeless seed and watch it sprout and grow. Here are answers to some of the hundreds of questions I’ve been asked about seed starting. Once you see how easy it is, I hope you give it a try!

Grow a dozen or more plants from a single seed pack. Grow a dozen or more plants from a single seed pack. Why Grow Seeds Indoors? Gardeners plant their own seeds for all sorts of reasons. First off, growing your own seeds allows you to plant hard-to-find strains. You’ll likely find fewer than a dozen varieties available as plants at your local garden center, but hundreds more are available as seeds. You can also save money; A packet of seeds costs a few dollars and usually contains a dozen or more seeds—a single plant often costs more than an entire packet. Maintaining a little patch of greenery indoors is a great way to beat the winter blues, and I think growing a plant from seed to harvest is particularly rewarding. Shop for organic seeds

Zinnias are one of the easiest flowers to grow from seed. Zinnias are one of the easiest flowers to grow from seed. Which seeds are easiest to grow indoors? If you are new to seeding, start with simple, reliable seeds including Tomato, Pepper, Basil, Zinnia, Marigold, Cosmos. These all germinate easily and grow quickly. Once you’ve mastered these, you can try your hand at more challenging plants.

Most seed packets come with sowing instructions. Most seed packets come with sowing instructions. When should I sow my seeds? When you grow seeds indoors, timing is everything. The goal is to grow seedlings that are the ideal size to transplant into the garden at the right time. Sowing dates depend on: your average frost date last spring;

whether the plant prefers cool or warm growing conditions;

how fast the seed germinates and grows. Most seed packets will suggest a planting time, such as B. “Sow the seeds six weeks before your average last frost date indoors.” To calculate your planting date, start by determining your average last spring frost date, marking it on a calendar, and counting back in one-week increments. Related article: When to start your seeds

Create a planting calendar by counting back from your last frost date. Create a planting calendar by counting back from your last frost date. How do I know my last frost date in spring? The easiest way to find out is to ask a neighbor who is an experienced gardener, or ask the staff at your local garden center. You can also visit The Old Farmer’s Almanac website or find a Master Gardener program (part of your state’s cooperative extension). The date of the actual last spring frost varies from year to year, so the “average date of last spring frost” is only an approximation, but it gives you a starting point.

These sad looking seedlings are growing on a windowsill, reaching for the light. These sad looking seedlings are growing on a windowsill, reaching for the light. Can I grow on a windowsill or do I need special grow lights? Although it’s possible to grow seedlings on a sunny windowsill, you’ll get much better results if you grow them under lights. That’s because the sunlight in early spring isn’t nearly as intense as the summer sun, and the days are also shorter. Seedlings growing on a windowsill will reach for the sun, resulting in long, weak stems that bend towards the light. Plants that grow under the steady, bright fluorescent lights of a bright garden, on the other hand, have strong, stocky stems that are more adaptable when planted in the garden. Related article: Gardening under lights

Seed stock mixes are well drained and disease free. Seed stock mixes are well drained and disease free. Can I use garden soil to set seeds? Garden soil tends to drain poorly, especially when used in small nursery trays. It can also harbor pathogens that can damage or kill young seedlings. For best results, grow seeds in a mix formulated for growing seeds indoors, such as B. our exclusive organic seed starter mix. Related article: Choosing the right soil for sowing

Seed starting systems are designed for healthy seedling growth. Seed starting systems are designed for healthy seedling growth. What kind of pot should I use? Although you can start seeds in any container with drainage holes, specially designed seed pots and trays provide optimal conditions. They allow you to plant a lot of seeds in a small space, and they drain freely to prevent rot. Some people prefer biodegradable pots; others prefer reusable trays. All-in-one self-watering seed start systems are convenient and foolproof. Buy seed starters

Basil, pepper and zinnia seeds: different sizes, different planting depths. Basil, pepper and zinnia seeds: different sizes, different planting depths. How deep do I plant the seeds? Most seed packets will tell you how deep to plant. A good rule of thumb is to sow seeds two or three times as deep as they are wide. Be careful not to plant the seeds too deep. A seed contains a finite supply of stored food to nourish it during germination. If you plant it too deep, it will run out of food before it reaches the light and grows big enough to start producing its own. Some seeds require light to germinate; the seed pack should say so. Sow these seeds on the surface of the planting mix.

Self-watering seed starters take the guesswork out of watering. Self-watering seed starters take the guesswork out of watering. Which is better, watering from above or from below? Soil irrigation is usually preferable as it keeps the soil surface drier and helps prevent disease. For small seeds or surface sown seeds, spraying from above keeps the surface moist for better germination. Self-watering seed starting systems, like our GrowEase Seed Starter Kit, use a wicking substance to deliver water from below, ensuring a constant supply of just the right amount of water to the plant’s roots. You simply fill the reservoir and don’t have to worry about over- or under-watering.

Remove the greenhouse cover as soon as you see the first shoots. Remove the greenhouse cover as soon as you see the first shoots. When do I remove the greenhouse cover on my seed starter? The greenhouse cover retains moisture and increases humidity for rapid germination. Once you see the first tiny sprout, remove the cover. This allows air to circulate around the seedlings, minimizing disease problems.

Keep lights 4″ to 6″ above the seedlings. Keep lights 4″ to 6″ above the seedlings. How close should the grow lights be to the seedlings? Keep the lights a few inches from the tops of the seedlings to encourage strong, stocky growth. Our grow light stands have adjustable lights that are easy to raise as the seedlings grow.

A seed start timer makes it easy to give plants the right amount of light. Do I leave the light on all the time? Most seedlings grow best when the light is left on for about 14 to 16 hours a day. They need a period of darkness (as they would in nature) to rest and prepare for active growth when the lights come back on. An automatic timer makes this easy.

Thin seedlings down to one per cell. Thin seedlings down to one per cell. Do I need to thin my seedlings? A few weeks after the seeds start growing, they may start crowding each other. When that happens, it’s time to thin out the seedlings. This is the most difficult part of starting seed for most gardeners. Choose the strongest seedling and remove the others nearby. This gives the remaining seedling room to grow. Although you can try separating and replanting seedlings, you will inevitably damage some roots and stun growth. The best way to thin out is to cut off extra seedlings at the soil line.

“True leaves” resemble the mature leaves of the plant. “True leaves” resemble the mature leaves of the plant. When should I start fertilizing my seedlings? The first leaf-like structures aren’t leaves at all, but rather the seed’s food storage structures, called cotyledons. The second and following sets are true leaves and resemble the leaves of the mature plant. Begin fertilizing the seedlings when they are an inch or two tall or when they have their second set of true leaves.

Time to transplant – before the roots get too full. Time to transplant – before the roots get too full. How do I know when it’s time to transplant into larger pots? Tomatoes and other fast-growing plants can outgrow their pots before it’s time to bring them into the garden. About a month after sowing, or when the seedlings are about 4 inches tall, carefully remove one of the seedlings from its pot. When the roots start to fill up the space, it’s time to transplant them into a larger pot. Avoid waiting too long. because root overcrowding can stunt plant growth and make it difficult for plants to recover after transplanting. Our Pop Out Pots are ideal transplant pots.

Allow seedlings to acclimate before planting in the garden. Allow seedlings to acclimate before planting in the garden. What is “hardening” and how do I do it? Hardening off simply means acclimating plants to outdoor conditions. Seedlings grown indoors have been spoiled – you’ve given them just the right amount of light, moisture, and nutrients. Outdoor conditions are more demanding, with fluctuating temperatures and light levels, more variable soil moisture and wind. Start hardening off about a week before you plan to plant the seedlings in the garden. Place them in a sheltered spot outdoors (partial shade, sheltered from the wind) for a few hours and bring them inside at night. Gradually expose them to more and more sun and wind over the course of a week or 10 days. A cold frame is a great place to harden off plants.

What went wrong?

Even the most experienced seed starters occasionally have problems. Here are some symptoms and possible causes.

Bad germination. Although most common vegetables and annual flowers germinate easily, some plant species have notoriously poor germination rates. This is often indicated on the seed package (with a note to sow additional seeds). First, make sure you have given the plants enough time to germinate. At sowing time, mark the pots with the plant species, sowing date and days to germination (indicated on the seed packet). Some seeds take two weeks or more to germinate. Poor germination can be caused by soil that is too wet or cold, causing the seeds to rot. (The latter can be remedied with a heating mat.) If the soil was too dry, the seeds might not have been able to absorb enough moisture to germinate. And if the soil dried out even once after growth began, the fragile new roots may have died before the scion even emerged above the ground. Poor germination can also be caused by stale seeds and seeds that have not been properly stored.

damping off. If, after a few days, some of your seedlings are tipping over as if a small woodcutter felled them at the soil line, then you are probably seeing the effects of the dieback. This is caused by soil borne fungi attacking the stem. There is no cure and the seeds will not sprout again. Start from scratch with clean containers and a sterile seed starting mix. Allow the soil surface to dry out slightly between waterings and place a fan in the room for good air circulation. To disinfect used containers, sterilize them in a 10% bleach solution (1 part bleach to 9 parts water). To learn more, read the Dampening article.

mold and algae growth. If you see flaky white growth or slimy green spots on the surface of the potting mix or on the outside of biodegradable pots, it is likely mold or algae. Although generally harmless to the seedling, they both indicate that the seed starting mix is ​​too wet. Allow it to dry out slightly between waterings and use a small fan in the room to increase air circulation.

Pale, sprawling seedlings with weak stems. “Long-legged” seedlings are often the result of insufficient light, both in intensity and duration. Place the plants under grow lights, arranging them so that the lights are a few inches above the tops of the plants and leaving the lights on for about 14 to 16 hours a day. Long-legged plants can also be caused by too warm room temperatures and overcrowding. Inadequate fertilization can result in pale, weak-stemmed plants.

discolored leaves. If the foliage of the seedlings is pale green, yellowish green, or purple, the plants may need a nutrient boost. Begin fertilizing the seedlings when they are an inch or two tall or when they have their second set of true leaves. Use a water-soluble fertilizer diluted by half and apply weekly for the first few weeks. After that, you can step up to full strength weekly. (Be sure to follow label directions for dilution rates.)

Video by Jonathan Parrish

Gardening can sometimes feel like a very expensive activity, but starting seeds for spring planting doesn’t have to be.

You can use egg cartons as a seed tray! Depending on the type of cardboard you have, you can even cut the sections apart and plant them as the cardboard is biodegradable.

Be sure to poke small holes for drainage and place the cartons on a tray or in a shallow pan to catch any remaining water.

If you don’t have a window sill handy, try using LED lights for growing seeds indoors!

This method of starting seeds works for both flowers and vegetables. I recommend planting some marigold seeds as they germinate quickly, have visually striking foliage and are relatively hardy once planted in the landscape. Plus, they make great companion plants in the garden because they deter some insect pests!

Getting the timing right The goal when sowing seeds is that your seedlings will be ready to go outside when the weather is favourable. Start by looking at the seed packet, which should tell you when to start seeds. It usually says something like, “Plant indoors six to eight weeks before last frost.” Some vegetables, like beans and squash, are best started outdoors. There is little benefit in growing them indoors because they germinate and grow quickly. Some flowers, like poppies, are also best planted outdoors. These seeds are usually labeled “no-till”. For more information on timing see: When to Start Your Seeds

Find the Right Containers You can grow seeds in almost any type of container as long as it’s at least 2-3 inches deep and has some drainage holes. If you’re the DIY type, you might want to grow seedlings in yogurt cups or milk cartons or paper cups. I prefer the convenience of trays made specifically for growing seeds. It’s easy to fill the trays, the irrigation system keeps them constantly hydrated, and I can move them around easily.

Prepare the potting soil Choose potting soil that is made for growing seedlings. Don’t use soil from your garden and don’t reuse potting soil from your houseplants. Start with a fresh, sterile mix that will ensure healthy, disease-free seedlings. Before filling your containers, use a bucket or tub to dampen the planting mix. The goal is to get it moist but not soaking wet; crumbly, not sloppy. Fill the containers and pack the soil tightly to avoid gaps. Keep in mind that most mixes contain few, if any, nutrients, so you’ll need to fertilize the seedlings with liquid fertilizer a few weeks after germination, and keep doing that until you transplant them into the garden.

Start Planting Check the seed packet to see how deep you should plant your seeds. Some of the small ones can be sprinkled directly onto the surface of the earth. Larger seeds must be buried. For safety, I plant two seeds per cell (or pot). When both seeds germinate, I cut off one and let the other grow. It is helpful to make a few divots in each pot to accommodate the seeds. After dropping a seed in each well, you can go back and cover the seeds. Dampen the newly planted seeds with an atomizer or small watering can. To speed up germination, cover the pots with plastic wrap or a plastic dome that fits over the nursery tray. This will help keep the seeds moist before they germinate. When you see the first signs of green, remove the cover.

Water, fertilize, repeat As the seedlings grow, use an atomizer or small watering can to keep the soil moist but not soggy. Allow the soil to dry out slightly between waterings. Set up a fan to ensure good air movement and prevent disease. I use a fan connected to the same timer as my grow lights. Remember to fertilize the seedlings regularly with liquid fertilizer mixed in the amount recommended on the package.

Light, light, light! Seedlings need a lot of light. If you are growing in a window, choose a southern exposure. Rotate the pots regularly to keep the plants from leaning into the light. If seedlings don’t get enough light, they become leggy and weak. If you’re growing under lights, adjust them so they’re just a few inches above the tops of the seedlings. Set the lights on a timer for 15 hours a day. Remember that seedlings also need darkness to allow them to rest. As the seedlings get bigger, increase the lights.

Starting your own seeds can be intimidating for new gardeners, but once you get the hang of it there’s nothing to worry about. One of my goals here on the blog is to provide you with the best information, help you grow great flowers, and hopefully dispel the notion that success is only for professionals.

In addition to some of the tips I’m going to give you today, I want to make sure you’re aware of a few more sources of information here on the Floret website:

-In the Floret resources section I have made a small Starting Seeds 101 tutorial and photo essay (be sure to click the arrows to advance the images) with some basics.

-Here in the blog is a post on the basics of seed starting.

– In the Floret Shop I have included sowing and growing instructions for dozens of my favorite flowers.

There’s nothing I hate more than seeing trays of beautiful little baby flowers go downhill in front of my eyes because I’ve overwatered, overwatered, or been too excited about transplanting and not hardening them off properly. Seriously, I’ve found some pretty lame ways to waste expensive seeds and many creative ways to kill baby plants over the years. Learning the hard way isn’t the most fun way to start with seeds, so hopefully you can avoid making the same mistakes.

I’ve put together a small list of do’s and don’ts when it comes to starting seeds. This list of quick tips is intended to complement other resources I’ve already created and help you learn from some of my biggest startup mistakes.

Tamp the soil into your containers or cell packs. Then pack it down a little more. By pressing down on the soil, you not only eliminate air pockets that little roots don’t like, but you also make it so much easier to remove your baby plants once they’re ready to transplant. I remember mauling a whole mess of baby snapdragons because I had been sloppy in filling the flats with soil. When it came time to transplant, instead of pushing the plants out with a nice firm patch of soil, the soil came loose from the roots and I ended up with a crumbly mess and traumatized plants.

Don’t forget to moisten the seed starting mix before adding your seeds. If you add your seeds to a dry potting mix and then try overhead watering, there’s a pretty good chance you’ll end up floating your seeds into the corners of the container. If they’re really tiny like Iceland poppies or snapdragons, you’ll likely have to flush them away and start over.

DO NOT start your seeds too early. In the rush to start growing, it’s easy to fall into the trap of starting all the seeds at once. If you read the seed packets or catalog descriptions you will find that it is advisable to start some slow growing flowers earlier (10-12 weeks before the last frost) than others (4-6 weeks). For example, if your frost-free date isn’t until mid-May, start foxgloves now, but hold off until later with fast-growing, warmth-loving zinnias. One year I totally skipped and planted zinnias way too early and I had plants bursting out of their pots and root bound because they didn’t know where to go. They were ready to be transplanted outside, but the spring frosts weren’t over yet so I had to throw them all away.

Use bottom heat to get your seeds going. It’s amazing how much faster and how much better seeds germinate with a little warmth at their feet. Propagation mats are excellent for this. If you’re a home gardener or a small flower grower, you can get by with just a mat or two. Only leave your seed trays on the heating mat until they germinate. After germination, remove the tray from the heat and make room for the next seed tray(s).

DO NOT sow more than one type of flower in the tray, especially if you plan to use a humidity dome. Germination rates vary by strain, so it’s best to fill all cells with the same buds so you’re not forced to remove the dome too early for a batch of early germinators or too late for those that are slow to germinate. Also, variable plant heights in the same tray makes adjusting the height of the lights above the trays difficult (shorter plants in the tray can become leggy when adjusting the light for the taller plants).

Remove the plastic humidity dome after your seeds have germinated. Domes are really only used on the trays until the seeds germinate, which can take as little as a few days for some strains. Once your plants have established themselves, they need plenty of air and light. If left on for too long, domes can kill seedlings. Note: Some gardeners recommend “weaning” their trays from a humidity dome by keeping the dome open for a day or two before removing it entirely. Similar to hardening off more mature plants, this gradual acclimatization to the heat and humidity outside of the dome can reduce plant shock.

If possible, water your plants from below. Standard seed starter kits contain three parts: a humidity dome, a cell pack layer with drainage holes, and a tray that acts as a liner for the cell packs. By placing your cell packs (or any container you choose to use) in the waterproof tray, you can add water to the tray, essentially allowing the bottom to wick or soak up the water. This keeps water off your leaves, helps prevent problems with fungus and disease, and concentrates water where it’s needed most, at the root level.

Don’t underestimate the amount of light small plants need to grow. If you use grow lights, be sure to adjust them so they are no more than three inches above the tops of your plants. When I was a newbie, it wasn’t intuitive to me. At all! As a result, I’ve grown many lanky, leggy plants because they didn’t get enough light. The bulbs were just too far from the canopy. Realizing my mistake, I set the lights to about 1″ above the top of the leaves (it seems really close, but trust me, that’s better for the plant). After adjusting the lights I found the plants grew so much better, with nice strong stems.

“Hard off” your plants before transplanting them. I’m embarrassed to admit how many plants I fried for not taking this important step. In my excitement about transplanting my baby plants outdoors, I didn’t give them a chance to acclimate to their new outdoor environment. “Hardening off” is simply a process of giving your plants time to gradually adapt to their new environment.

Think about it: your little plants have been in a warm and cozy, temperature-controlled environment for weeks or months. If you suddenly take them out of this room and expose them to bright sun, wind and temperature fluctuations in the open garden, this is stress for the plant. This step often requires a lot of plant movement, but believe me, transplant shock is real and deadly, and if you take the time and effort to adjust your beginnings, you will end up with happier, stronger plants and more buds.

Don’t beat yourself up if you make mistakes. Unless you’re particularly lucky, or already have a magical green thumb, you’re likely to make a few mistakes when you first start out with seeds. $#!+ happened. And it’s okay! You’re bound to make far fewer mistakes than I did in the early days, but just know that mistakes are inevitable. Part of the joy of gardening is learning what systems work well for your situation and climate.

Did you make any of these mistakes? Or do you have any starting lessons you learned the hard way? I’d love to hear from you in the comments below.

Grass seed spread out on top of the soil will still try to grow, but you will get poor results compared to grass seed that has been covered with 1/4 inch of soil. Uncovered seeds tend to dry out, are eaten by birds, or carried away by run-off water. In addition, uncovered grass seedlings can dry out and die more easily. If you leave your grass seed uncovered, a much lower percentage of grass seed will sprout. To get more out of your grass seed and ensure a thick, new grass lawn, cover the grass seed with a light layer of soil or compost.

Why you should never leave grass seed uncovered

Grass seeds exposed to the elements are prey to scavengers or can be washed away by frequent watering of young seeds. Not only that, grass seeds need moisture first and foremost. Drought is a death sentence for grass seedlings. Uncovered seeds can be dried out by the sun. This can lead to a situation where grass seed can fail completely in dry or sunny parts of your yard.

Uncovered seeds tend to dry out, killing the seedlings.

A much higher chance of your grass seed being eaten by birds.

The seedlings will have difficulty rooting in hard, unprepared soil.

Runoff from watering or rain can wash away seeds.

You get fewer weed plants from your seed, which means you get less bang for your buck.

Uncovered grass seeds simply will not sprout or survive in large numbers compared to covered grass seeds. If left uncovered, only a small percentage of Lucky Grass seeds will sprout, while most will die or not sprout at all. If you don’t cover your weed seed, you’re throwing money away because most of the seed you paid for and worked so hard to propagate won’t grow.

How deep does grass seed need to be buried?

1/4-1/2 inch (1/2-1 cm) of soil or compost is the perfect depth for burying grass seed. Any deeper and grass seedlings may have difficulty penetrating the soil and thriving. By burying grass seedlings instead of just scattering them, you provide a perfect habitat for grass seed germination. Your watering efforts keep the soil moist, which incubates grass seeds and encourages higher germination rates. This layer of soil also provides shelter for your grass seeds and provides a good place for grass seedlings to form their first roots.

Cover grass seed with 0.25–0.5 inch of soil.

The ground cover retains water and helps keep the grass seeds moist.

The seeds are protected from the sun, which could dry them out as they try to germinate.

Loose soil surrounding the seeds will facilitate initial rooting.

Seeds are protected from hungry birds.

The soil helps hold the seed in place and resist runoff.

To properly cover grass seed, spread it on loose topsoil or compost and use a garden rake to lightly cover the seeds. It’s okay if some seeds are visible, as long as the majority are covered. To get even better results from your grass seeding, use a lawn roller and a good starter fertilizer afterwards.

Will grass seed germinate if covered?

Covered grass seed will germinate faster than uncovered grass seed as long as it is not buried more than 1 cm below the surface. If the grass seed is buried deeper than 1/2 inch, the new shoot may not have enough energy to break through the soil surface and reach the sunlight.

Grass seeds achieve the most success when covered with 1/4-1/2 inch of topsoil or compost.

Uncovered grass seed will fight.

Grass seeds buried more than 1/2 inch deep may not be able to break through the surface and will die.

Lightly covered seed has the highest chance of success.

Remember that the soil you use to cover your weed seed is primarily to keep the weed seed moist and protected. Because grasses send out very small seedlings, they don’t tolerate being buried as deeply as leafy plants.

Should you remove topsoil before sowing grass?

If you’re seeding a bare lawn or bare patch of soil, you don’t need to add topsoil before sowing grass seed. Instead, you can prepare the soil by plowing and loosening, making it perfect for grass seed. When overseeding an existing lawn with new seed, it is best to spread a thin layer of compost or topsoil before sowing to provide a cover for the new seed.

Sowing bare patches eliminates the need for new topsoil. Simply plow and prepare the bare ground.

If overseeding, spread compost or topsoil before sowing.

Only use a thin layer of topsoil/compost when overseeding. Too much extra topsoil will choke out existing grass.

When spreading topsoil over an existing lawn, make sure your grass isn’t covered. Gradually spread the new topsoil, using a garden rake to spread it between the blades of grass without burying it. This creates a habitat for new seeds without damaging your existing lawn.

Will grass seed grow unless covered in dirt?

A small percentage of grass seed will sprout if spread out and left uncovered. However, this method of sowing is very inefficient. Rather than wasting time and money spreading grass seed just to get a few sprouts, you’ll get much better results if you spread your grass seed and cover it with 1/4 inch of soil. This ground cover acts as an incubator, keeping the grass seed moist and protecting it from scavengers and harsh weather. To get the most grass out of a bag of grass seed, cover it after you’ve spread it over your lawn.

Better than expected, ideal for home use. This review is for the CN-PRT-38 propagation sheet. Having previously ordered and used perforated rectangular sheets compatible with the 1020 tray, this option feels sturdier and more robust. I absolutely love the root space that seedlings enjoy in this particular leaf. I hope to use them for many years as they are the best trays I have ever used.

Cultivation bowls Exactly as described !! Delivered quickly and works great!

Seed trays Was hard to separate at first but now I’ve figured it out!! Works great and heavy enough for what I need Thwm for!

A little flimsy. Be careful when handling them to avoid tearing them. Once in a 1020 compartment they’re fine, but don’t use them without one.

Slightly thinner than expected On the thin side, if you’re not careful with them they can tear fairly easily. Fit well in my 1020 trays and once in it’s fine. Don’t try to use it without the 1020 compartments.

Perfect Fit Works great with small plastic bathroom cups for propagating African Violets

Neutral, but worth noting These trays are good for what they’re designed for. However, the plastic has no reinforcement whatsoever. Once filled with medium and product, they require a second reinforced bowl to be moved around without affecting the work being done. Without additional support, they are extremely difficult to move.

Quality of pack vs case The pack I bought fitted beautifully in the 1020 shells I bought here. The case I bought doesn’t even come close. I noticed that the packs are of higher quality than what comes in a case. This has been the case with all my suitcase purchases from GHMS. Be aware of this.

Will not fit 1020 trays These trays would be great if they were deep enough to fit standard 1020 trays. As they are, they will sink into the center of the tray, making bottom irrigation impossible.

Ideal for seedlings and propagation. We prefer these deep bowls because they don’t dry out as quickly as the smaller cell bowls. Get the daisy trays for her.

Propagation trays Unfortunately I think these were a waste of $ for me. They might be fine for someone who grows many of the same items per tray, but since different varieties of the same veg germinate at different times, I found it difficult to remove the small seedlings to transplant into larger pots. Individual cells were not so easy to extract. Also on the 98 cell trays, it would probably be good to mention that while these trays are the same length and width as the standard 1020 trays, they are not deep enough to reach the bottom of the tray so they are centered need to be supported to prevent them from slipping into the bottom tray…or…should you use a flat bottom tray. While I’d love to return these for a refund, I know that’s probably not an option, but I wanted to comment.

Wow at the prices I paid I honestly expected the trays to be terrible. They really are great quality. very impressed, just don’t forget the 1020 trays!

Great Customer Service As other reviews here note, the 98 cell trays do not fit properly in the 1020 trays. Luckily, a phone call and explanation of the problem to customer service was all that was required to fix it.

Just Right. An excellent size for transplanting cactus seedlings from their germination trays into standard shallow pots and much more economical than 2.5 inch black form pots. The combination of 1020 trays with no holes means I don’t leech or water as much nutrients as I often do.

Thanks. Product is exactly what I was looking for. Arrived earlier than expected.

Great for 2 1/4 I use these to grow seedlings in 2 1’4 peat pots. When they’re almost done I dilute them with alternate holes and then put them up for sale. Since they are a little flimsy, I placed them in the carrying cases for rigidity.

Kris Excellent quality and price. Will buy again

Doesn’t quite fit 1020 flat 98 cell tray doesn’t quite fit 1020 flat. If you cut off the plastic border on all sides it will fit in the 1020 shell. Which is fine for me as a hobbyist who reuses trays. Very easy to remove plugs from the 98 cell size. I will probably buy more.

Excellent product I have ordered the same type of product from other websites, it was a little cheaper but the mil of the plastic must have been lower as they would break when pulled apart. Excellent product and already in use. Would recommend to friends and business.

Plant bowls Very happy with the order. The bowls were cheaper than shipping. I used 1 tray and 1 heating mat to start 14 different types of peppers. The next tray is tomatoes.

Carla from Montana I’m pretty disgusted with these seed boxes. They fit snugly in the tray until you fill them with soil, then they sag in the middle. Then the transparent domes don’t fit properly either. I wouldn’t recommend them to anyone until they find a solution.

98 cell trays are short / don’t fit 1020 well. I’ve bought both 98 cell and 72 cell trays. The size 72 appeared to be made from a slightly different material and was a bit more robust. The size 98 has a shorter depth as noted and while the edges of the cups rest on the edges of the 1020 cups they sag when filled so that an even pour would be impossible. It’s possible to completely trim the 98 cell tray so they sit flush to the bottom of the 1020 trays, but that’s time consuming and weakens the tray… I suppose they’ll tear before I use them for the Quitting use I’m a beginner and maybe some people will find the size 98 useful for some purpose, but in hindsight I regret buying that size. (Furthermore, they are so small that they will have to be transplanted very soon.)

Great Propagation Trays These trays are wonderful. They fit perfectly in the 10×20 trays without having to trim them. They are currently used to propagate geraniums, begonias and impatiens from cuttings. Love your products, customer service and fast delivery. And thank you for offering the smaller batches for us little time growers.

Good product The product is of good quality. The only problem is that while the cells fit in the 1020 tray, they aren’t big enough to sit on the bottom of the tray; hence the center sags and the sides push out the sides of the 1020 tray. I trimmed the edges so it slides into the 1020. It works well but affects the stability of the edge cells. I’ll see if I can find something to stick inside the tray to increase the height of the propagation tray to the correct height.

Great product great product great shipping

Good product! Quality cast and a good volume for 50. I like them.

Not my favourite. This product is quite thin in quality. Not likely to be used more than once, which seems wasteful. The cells have a fairly firm bottom with drainage holes, but are too firm to stick out for transplanting. Also, the recommended matching trays are not the correct depths, so the cell tray does not sit well supported and sags in the middle. Will not buy these models again. 🙁

38 trays… 10 pack Is really worth the money. This really is a great deal for only $10. Last year, yogurt containers and other small plastic containers were saved for starting plants and trees. Drilled holes for water… what a waste of time if I could have gone with that option. Instead of 100 individual reused containers to balance and move, I have the same thing in 3 basic bowls to work with and 7 additional bowls to do more with. Don’t save more than $10 for the convenience of these trays. The cells are slightly larger than the standard cells found in plants you can buy in a 6-pack in stores.

Too short to fit properly in 1020 trays. My 72 cell propagation trays are too short to fit outside the 1020 tray. They hang down the middle. This causes the soil and plants to dry out sooner at each end. This also causes the plastic domes to fit poorly. Aside from that one product, we are very happy with everything else in our order. Great customer service and personalities. Many Thanks.

50 cell trays I really like these trays as they give you both a large number of cells and a good amount of growth medium. I have used them for both cuttings and seed beginnings and am very satisfied.

good trays Whilst I think these are for single use I’ve gotten 3-4 seasons out of them. The larger size is great for starting petunias and geraniums.

Prompt Nice quality. A little pricey, but ordered a small amount, that’s to be expected.

Perfect! exactly what I wanted, reasonable quantity, delivered perfectly for normally brittle plastic

quality product. I will be a regular customer. This company is as professional as one could ask for and delivered a quality product on my first order.

good price fast shipping I buy trays and other items from GHM and always get fast shipping and no damaged items. I haven’t found better prices anywhere.

IndoorGardens4Life When the trays contained wet soil, they sank in the middle, causing the middle cells to receive more water; What I did was trim the plastic around the edges to make it all fit in a 1020 tray to get equal water. Give this product a 3/5 rating because when you buy something you shouldn’t have to tamper with it to make it work properly. This was a design flaw by the manufacturer; who only think about profits and don’t consider the actual viability of the product used, this part is for us consumers to find out…

Not what I wanted The individual cells are not perforated and cannot be separated from the rest. Not suitable for transplanting – at least the way I do it.

Seedling boxes I lost some seedlings because the boxes didn’t fit well. They’re too big, which means the center gets too much moisture because it’s touching the bottom of the tray. The sides overlap the tray and the roots of the seedlings cannot reach the water. The middle seedlings rot, and the outer ones die from drought.

Propagation trays Excellent value for money, work well

Fun! These are very flimsy and flimsy, but extremely easy to work with. I assume I’ll have to replace them. It would be great if they were strong enough to be reused – an ecological request.

Ok product is ok. I had trouble finding soil plugs big enough to fit these holes.

Excellent starter apartments Received promptly as promised. In connection with the trays without holes, the flats fit perfectly. Very stable, easy to fill with starter mix. The size is good as I can let the seedlings grow before they need to be transplanted. I hope to use them again next year but for now they get five from me.

38 plug Exactly what I wanted and expected. I would order these again.

Propagation trays were lovely to get so quickly. Thanks.

Seedling boxes 38 cells I started using them yesterday, taking cuttings from annuals that I want to overwinter. The cells hold a good amount of soil and this size gives me ample space between cuttings. So far I am very satisfied with this product

Good product, not with 1020 trays Great product, durable plastic. I will definitely get a few more seasons of this. However, they do not fit in the 1020 slots. The prop trays are a little too big and the plugs don’t hit the ground, so the prop tray sags a bit in the middle. Still works, but not optimally.

Would I buy again I like these trays. They are beautiful and deep. They definitely need some support underneath, like the 1020 trays for example. The biggest change I think they could make would be holes in the corners of the tray to allow pouring into the 1020 trays. I cut off each corner with scissors. Now I can get water in the 1020 tray.

98 – Cell Sheet Trays I ordered 10 of the 98 Cell Sheets for starting seeds and cuttings. They are all one piece which makes them sturdy and should last for years. Sheets sent quickly had them in 2 days.

98 cell TLC Pro trays good product for starting cuttings or larger seeds like pumpkin or cantelope would buy again

Grow lots of seedlings ready for transplantation The cells are large enough to grow seedlings of some plants ready to be transplanted into the garden without repotting them into larger containers. They are VERY light but with the support of the 1020 Daisy or standard tablets they are perfect. Treat them with care and you can use them for several seasons.

A Hobby Perspective I bought a few of these based on other reviewers’ comments and I wasn’t disappointed. These are great quality at a low price.

PERFECT THE TRAYS ARE PERFECT AND THEY ARE REASONABLE.

markag Very good product for the money! I can imagine buying many more in the future.

CN PRT CN PRT

CN PRT CN PRT

128 Trays You don’t even need a bottom tray for the 128s – they hold up really well and are pretty deep. Can’t beat the price.

CN-PRT These shells are weaker than the plug flats and take up less soil. I have used them with the 1020s with holes in a 1020 without holes to water the plants from below and then move them in. They’re cheap and easy to transplant, but I think the plug flats last longer.

Good value for money Bought these to start my seedling with. Good value for money, sturdy when full of medium. Nice depth and diameter. Will buy another 10 to complete my project.

Nice The plug holes are tapered on the 50 cell trays which makes removing the grafts so much easier. Arrived quickly and safely. I would buy these again.

Ideal for mass sowing! These flats are very easy to fill with soil, seeds and transport. They are rigid enough to move without worrying about seed loss. The plants can be popped out of the cells without any problems and we can reuse all the apartments.

USEFUL ITEM THESE TRAYS MAKE WORKING WITH MENY PLANTS EASY.

WOW SUPER! I bought these trays to grow some plants at home… and they are AWESOME! The quality is perfect and they are the best to start your seeds. They are very easy to transplant without disturbing the roots and will last for many, many plantings. I showed them to my friends and they were impressed too. I will never buy anything else. This company has great customer service and ships VERY fast. I had my trays in just a few days. I’ll be back for more!

Seed starting trays are usually made of plastic. Some come with a dome to maximize humidity and some come with heating pads that help speed up the germination rate. Seed trays can also be used to house clones or cuttings.

A seed starting tray is a gardening tool specifically designed to hold multiple seeds, beginning with the germination stage until the seedlings are ready for transplantation. Using such a tray ensures better nutrient availability for each seed and eliminates the need for multiple plantings. Seed starting trays also help keep the seeds contained.

Maximum yield explained seed start tray

The right tools can make gardening a lot easier and more successful. One of the most important tools for gardeners interested in growing their own plants from seed is a nursery tray. These are simple but important tools that help improve productivity, encourage growth, and make gardening in general easier.

A seed starting tray is exactly what it sounds like – a plastic tray with several small “cups” designed to hold seedlings. To use it, a gardener simply fills the tray’s cups with their favorite seed starting mix and then plants seeds according to the package directions (or their preferred experience). After planting the seeds, water is added, and the seed starting tray can be placed in a warm, well-lit place to wait for growth.

There are many advantages to using a seed tray over other options such as: B. the plants in larger containers. For one, each cup can only hold one or two seedlings, making transplanting easier as they mature. Another benefit is that these trays are specially designed to improve water drainage and ensure healthier plants overall.

Some trays can be purchased and reused. However, you can also find ones that can be cut up and planted straight into the ground. The material that makes up the mug is biodegradable and will degrade over time adding organic matter to the soil. You’ll also find seed trays that come in a range of capacities to suit many different growing needs.

My seed is growing – what do I do now??????

I hope you’ve had some success germinating your seeds!

Once the seeds have germinated, remove the cover. When the seedlings are young, you may want to cover them again for a few hours a day to keep them from drying out.

Over the many years of growing my own plants, one thing that really helped me was using a turkey broom to water the young seedlings. I found I could control the amount of water I gave them better than using a watering can. I would often use a spray bottle filled with water, but in many cases the young seedlings were showered with the spray. Always use warm water, NOT cool.

This is also the time to start fertilizing. Use a water soluble fertilizer like 10-52-10. Add fertilizer to lukewarm water according to directions and fertilize about every third watering. A high middle number (phosphorus) promotes a good root system; A high first number (nitrogen) encourages too much leaf growth and the third number (potassium) allows for better uptake of food and water from the soil and is good for the overall health of the plant. At this point you should not over-fertilize or over-water.

Place the seedlings as close to your light source as possible to prevent the seedlings from “stretching”. If you use fluorescent lights, leave them on for about 15-16 hours a day. If you have them in a sunny spot indoors, be careful not to dry them out from the heat of the sun. You’ll also need to turn them every few days to keep the stems growing straight and not stretching out.

Once the seedlings seem crowded or have developed their second set of leaves, it’s time to separate them and transplant them into their own small containers (about 1 ½” – 2″) tall. When transplanting, pick up plants by the leaves, not the stem or roots. Make sure the containers you use have holes for good drainage. Peat pots are great as they let water through and you don’t have to remove your plant if you plant it in the ground as the peat pot will break down in the moist soil. If you transplant seedlings into a container that is too large, you won’t see much new top growth, but the plant will be busy establishing roots to fill the container. At this point you may want to switch to an all-purpose (20-20-20) fertilizer. I like to use a very weak fertilizer with every watering.

Almost all seedlings will grow into better, bushier plants if you pinch off their top growth after they have grown their second or third set of leaves. Never pinch tuberous begonia or celosia. As the seedlings grow, you may want to transplant them back into a slightly larger container. You may also want to add some soil to your soilless mix to train the roots to work their way through the soil. They’ll be better off when they’re finally planted in the garden. You will then have some healthy, large plants to transplant outside once the weather warms up (usually around May 24th).

As your seedlings grow, use a fan for a few hours a day to give them a little stress. Also, let them dry out a bit by skipping watering and fertilizing once a week and put them in a cool spot at night. Your plants will be much stronger and better able to survive outside.

Always harden off your plants before planting them outdoors by gradually acclimating them to the conditions they will be growing in. A plant that has been spoiled with plenty of water, fertilizer warmth, and moisture will grow lush, green, tender foliage, but it will be the first to suffer shock and keel over in our Manitoba sun and wind. Always place your tender plants in a shady, sheltered place for the first few days and then gradually expose them to wind and sun. If your plants are wilting or showing signs of too much sun (white leaves), water them well and return them to the protected shade. Your plants will soon adjust to the conditions and be less likely to succumb to harsh outdoor conditions. A good rule to follow when planting is to plant out your sun plants first and then your shade plants. Usually the shade plants are more tender and planting out too early (impatiens or begonia) will throw them back or you may lose them when nights drop below 10 degrees.

Many plants such as petunias, verbena, alyssum, dianthus, foxgloves (foxy), snapdragons, gazania, centaurea (Batchelor Button), rudbeckia (Gloriosa daisy), sweet peas, chrysanthemums, cosmos and pansies can take, but will, prepare for a little chill and frost Be prepared to cover them if there is a risk of frost soon after planting. Use newspaper, cardboard or leaves to cover. Never use plastic as it attracts the cold.

About a week after your plants are planted outdoors, give them a good fertilization (like a Miracle Gro 15-30-15 for all your flowering plants and an all-purpose 20-20-20) for all your foliage plants. Continue this throughout the summer according to directions and you will have strong, healthy plants all season long.

Stay tuned for more planting tips and tricks!