Trailer Tie Down Points? Best 51 Answer

Don’t you hate it when you buy a picture frame and realize it has no hardware? 😩 You are not alone. Don’t worry, we’ll show you how to attach D-rings to your frame in a few easy steps!

Step 1: Knowing Which Edge Is Up

Sounds silly right? Well you wouldn’t believe how many times we got it wrong! D-rings are located on each side of the back of the frame and closer to the top than the bottom. Make a mark on the back of the frame to indicate the top edge of your frame so you can easily remember the orientation of your picture.

Step 2: Measure the length of the frame

Here we do some simple calculations. To figure out where to put the D-rings, you need to measure the length of the frame and divide by three. Use this number to measure from the top and mark with a pencil – that’s where the D-ring goes. Measure and mark the other side of the frame in the same way. The overall length of our frame is 16.5 inches. Here’s the math: 16.5/3 = 5.5. And 5.5 inches is the distance from the top where the D ring goes. Although we say it’s easy math, we still used a calculator. Double checking doesn’t hurt!

Step 3: Install the D-rings

Center a D-ring with the width of the frame and align the screw hole over your pencil mark. Hold the ring triangle up. Use a screwdriver to screw in the D-ring. If the wood is hard you can use a small drill bit to start the hole, but this shouldn’t be necessary for most frames. Repeat to install the second D-ring on the other side of the frame. It’s that simple. Now you’re ready to hang your frame.

Quick and easy way to hang the frame with D-rings

Hanging a picture with D rings can be tricky. We designed our Hang & Level™ picture hanging tool to mark exactly where to place the nail without measuring or making erroneous holes. It works with D-rings – and also with sawtooth hangers, keyhole hangers and picture wire. Watch this short video to see how quickly we hung this image with Hang & Level.

If you prefer to use picture wire, you can attach it to the D-rings. Remember to leave the wire a little slack so it forms a little point when hanging from the nail. Curious to see the last space we created? Check out our blog for instructions and decorating tips.

We love designing products that make decorating easy. If you have any decorating questions for us, click on the live chat below or email us at: [email protected] and we will do our best to help you create the home that You love™

-The UTR team

Because prefab/mobile homes are lighter than site-built homes and most are also raised off the ground on pillars, they need extra protection when tropical storms or hurricane winds blow. Florida also experiences occasional violent summer thunderstorms that briefly reach tropical storm strength. Storm winds can get under the house and lift it up and push it against the walls, knocking it off the foundation. Wind blowing across the roof also creates a wing-like lifting effect.

All prefabs/mobile homes must be secured in accordance with the manufacturer’s installation instructions. In the case of a used RV, or if manufacturer specifications are not available, the home must be tied down per Florida Department of Highway Safety and Motor Vehicles specifications. Each AHJ (Authority Having Jurisdiction), typically a county or city building authority, is responsible for enforcing regulations through permitting and on-site inspections.

Click on the link below to download a copy of the Department of Highway Safety and Motor Vehicles Requirements, Rule 15C-1 and 2 as a PDF document:

TieDownFL15C1-2.pdf

Also here is a link to a summary of the key requirements in 15C-1 and 2:

15C-1and2S.pdf

Single and double width mobile homes both require diagonal tie downs. Single wide houses are more susceptible to lateral (lateral) wind forces due to their narrow width, so they also need vertical anchoring. These over-the-top straps will be a visible wrap on older single-wides. The number of lashing straps required depends on two criteria:

1) The wind zone where the house is located. To determine which zone your home should be in, look at the home nameplate. Here is a link to our blog on how to find and interpret the nameplate:

How do I find out how old an RV is and who made it?

To ensure your home is in the wind zone it was designed for, visit our blog for a wind zone map at:

Where are wind zone 2 and wind zone 3 for campers?

For wind zone 1 only diagonal (frame) lashings are normally required, but for wind zones 2 and 3 a vertical (wall) tie bar is also required at each frame anchorage as shown below.

If your home has a “D Label,” meaning it is designed for installation within 1500 feet of shore in Wind Zone 3, there are additional installation requirements in Section 15C-1.01031. To learn more about D-Sticker homes, visit our blog at What is a D-Sticker Motorhome?

2) The year the house was built. HUD tightened clearance requirements in the mid-1990s following the devastation of South Florida from Hurricane Andrew, which destroyed 97% of all Homestead prefab homes. In our area, which is in Wind Zone II, homes manufactured after the original HUD standards went into effect in July 1976 and before the improved standards that were enforced beginning July 1994 had an average spacing of about 2.5 m. After 1994, tie-down straps are placed about five feet apart. Additional stabilization bracing is now also required on double wides. Florida Administrative Code 15C-1, updated in 1999, added additional standards for installing windproof mobile homes. More recently, HUD introduced standardized installation guidelines nationwide in 2009. If you’re not sure when your home was built, read our blog post How Do I Find Out How Old an RV Is and Who Made It?

If you are buying an older mobile home and the financial institution or insurance company requests a foundation inspection, it is because they want to verify that the home meets the newer plumbing standards. The inspection must be performed by a licensed RV installer or technician, not a home inspector; except that some home inspectors are linked to an engineering firm and act as their agent to take reference photos for the engineer’s report. FHA and VA funding will only accept an engineer’s report.

Installation of a mobile home, including tie-downs, is required by Florida law to be performed by a professional installer licensed by the Department of Highway Safety and Motor Vehicles, with a final inspection by the local building authority. In addition to the numerous legal requirements that must be met in order to properly install a home, another reason for not allowing a homeowner installation is that putting a mobile home on pillars is a dangerous job, even when done by experienced professionals becomes.

Here are some of the defects we typically find when inspecting a mobile home foundation:

Corroded and loose anchor straps.

Cut or removed anchor straps.

Anchor straps installed at more or less than specified angle.

Tilting pillar, no longer in direct contact with the steel frame.

Annexes built on site (including verandas) related to the structure of the mobile home.

And by the way, if your tie-downs are metal cables instead of straps, like in the photo below, then you have a pre-HUD house that was made before 1976 with the original foundation system.

Also see our blog posts What are the minimum HUD requirements for foundation foundations and piers under a mobile/prefab home? and What are the most common deficiencies in mobile/fabricated home foundation piers?

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Here are links to a collection of our blog posts about MOBILE/MANUFACTURED HOMES:

• Where do I file a complaint if I have a problem with my new or used Florida RV home?

• How do I determine the age of a very old mobile home?

• What is a Mobile/Prefab “HUD Label Letter of Approval”?

• When was a ground cover vapor barrier (plastic sheeting) required under a mobile/prefab home?

• Is it safe to go under a mobile home?

• Are older mobile homes unsafe?

• What do I need to know about buying a foreclosed mobile home?

• Does it make sense to buy and convert an older mobile home?

• Where can I find the vehicle identification number (VIN) on a motorhome?

• What is the right price for a used mobile home?

• How energy efficient is a mobile home?

• When were the first double-width caravans made?

• How do I upgrade my old RV (pre 1976) to meet HUD standards?

• What size air conditioner is right for my RV?

• Can you move an older mobile home in Florida?

• What does the HUD tag look like and where can I find it on an RV?

• Can you place a Zone 1 mobile home in Florida?

• How can I remove water from under my RV?

• What are the differences between a caravan, a mobile home, a prefabricated house and a modular house?

• What is a D-Sticker motorhome?

• What are the lashing requirements for an RV?

• How fireproof is a mobile home?

• Can I install a mobile home myself?

• What is a Park Model mobile home?

• Does an RV add-on have to comply with the HUD code?

• Which walls can I remove in a mobile home?

• What can I do to avoid moisture and mold in my mobile home?

• How can I tell if a mobile home is well built?

• How do I recognize the difference between a prefabricated house and a modular house?

Visit our MOBILE/MANUFACTURED HOMES page for other related blog posts on this topic or go to the INDEX for a full list of all our articles.

Diagrams – FEMA

Crafted homes require that they be permanently attached to the ground. Modular homes (also manufactured) are placed on a permanent foundation that anchors them to the ground. Mobile home construction is controlled by the HUD (Department of Housing and Urban Development) and not controlled by local authorities, but each county within each state has its own requirements for how the homes must be set up so that they are securely attached to the ground. When weather conditions include storms and high winds, the prefab home is not a safe place unless the home is adequately anchored to the ground. This is done with anchors and lashing straps.

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Why use ratchet straps?

When RVs are built, they are placed on a steel chassis that has axles and wheels attached for mobility. Because they don’t have to be placed on a permanent foundation (like a site built house does), they are much lighter than a site built house. When these houses are erected, they are usually positioned on concrete pillars (which are cemented into the ground) and elevated so that they have a crawl space underneath. No matter where the home is located, high wind storms can arise and wind can blow under the home and lift it upwards. Also, the house is built in a rectangular shape and wind blowing over the top can create buoyancy activity. For these reasons, the houses must be anchored to the ground

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video of the day

Lashing requirements

The requirements for the number of tie downs needed to anchor the house depend on the length of the house and its location. More tie downs are required in coastal areas where there is more storm activity and a more damaging storm history. To counteract the force of the wind, two types of tie-down straps are used. A vertical tie is used above the roof of a family home to combat wind damage. A diagonal tie down is used to tie the frame to the ground. This combats winds that lift the house. Single wide homes require both types of tie downs. Due to weight factors, a double-wide mobile home requires only diagonal fixing to anchor the house and frame to the ground.

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Use of lashing straps

The number of diagonal lashings ranges from three to five per side in less storm-prone areas. In coastal areas, four to seven per side are used to meet the larger demand. Depending on the length of the house, two to four vertical anchors (on the roof surface) are required for single-width houses. More can be used for greater insurance against storm and wind devastation. If the home has attachments or other site considerations, an engineer in your area should be consulted for guidance on how to adequately tie down the home. Some loans require an engineer to inspect the sleepers and certify that the home is adequately anchored and secure.

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anchor

Diagonal lashing straps are attached to the houses’ steel frame, which is secured by frame anchors. The type of frame anchor used depends on the type of soil in the area. If a concrete base is poured, a concrete anchor should be installed. Other types of anchors are used that are designed to hold in various soils from rock and hard clay to soft and sandy soils. These anchors are designed and tested.

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Consult the experts

When researching the proper decor of a home, leave it to the experts. Professional mobile home delivery and assembly teams are trained to correctly and safely set up and install sleepers and anchors best suited to the area. If an inexperienced person is considering tackling the job, they should do so under the guidance of a building inspector or a trained RV installer. They would instruct you to ensure the house is level before anchoring. Check if you are in a high risk zone and additional connections are required. Determine the soil type in the area to ensure the correct anchors are used. Locate where cables, wires, gas, sewer and water lines are located before dropping anchors. Ensure all anchoring materials are to specifications and are corrosion and weather resistant. Follow the explicit instructions provided with all consumables. If in doubt, contact your responsible engineering office.