Travel Frame For Artwork? The 13 New Answer

So you want to learn how to create your own shipping, right? DIY shipping boxes are entirely possible and something I’ve had to do for a long time. I needed to build a shipping box so I could ship a 4’x6′ painting across the country. It is not safe to ship large paintings or artworks of this size in a box. The risk of damage and deformation is too high to be sent in a cardboard box.

Paintings of this size must be sent by courier. I’ve shipped by freight in the past, but carriers add an additional $500 to the packing fee for packing materials and box construction. Crafting my own crate is a skill I’ve wanted for a long time, and I was able to build and box my own crate for $300 in supplies.

Due to the painting’s size of 48 x 72 x 2 inches, I needed the box to have extra space around the piece for bubble wrap and styrofoam. The box I had to build was 60″ x 82″ x “6”.

Given those dimensions, these were the supplies I needed:

Cut your boards.

Depending on the size of the box you require, your dimensions may vary from mine. The first thing I did was cut my plywood into four 60″ x 41″ boards with a saw. Cut your side boards.

These are 2″x6″x96″ boards. I needed two that were 78″ and four that were 60″. Assemble the frame.

I call the thicker side boards my frame. I bolted the two 78″ boards to two of the 60″ boards with the 60″ boards on the outside so the overall dimension of the frame was 60″ x 82″. Make sure your corners are square as you screw them in. Assemble the plywood sides.

I screwed two 60″x41″ panels in the center together with one of my 2″x6″x60″ panels in the center to hold them together. Wood glue was applied to the center panel, then the plywood panels were screwed onto it. All three pieces were then joined bolted together You can work on both sides of the box at this point 4 pieces of plywood, 2 middle support/joining boards = two sides of the box.

Pack your painting.

While your wood glue is drying on these side panels, now is a good time to pack up your painting. To learn how to properly pack the painting before putting it in the box, go to the next section on packing your painting. Make your base.

Now that you have all your sides, cut, glue and screw and assemble. At this point you should have three pieces, the 60 x 82 x 2 inch frame and the two 60 x 82 inch plywood sides of the box. Take one of your plywood sides and screw it to the frame. Place your styrofoam.

In the bottom of your box, place a layer of your styrofoam sheet. The sheets I got were 24″ x 96″ x 1″. I needed two and a half sheets for one layer in the bottom of my box. Be sure to save the excess length trimmed from the 96.” You’ll need those 14 inches to pad the corners of your piece.Place your wrapped painting in the box.

Your painting should already be wrapped in archival acid-free paper, plastic wrap, and at least three layers of bubble wrap and strapping. See the section below for these steps. Protect your corners.

In the box I now have about 3-4 inches on all sides of my piece because of the bubble wrap. Use the styrofoam you set aside to create corner bumpers for the painting. These should be glued together and glued to the styrofoam base. These corners should be tight. To ensure your piece doesn’t bump around in the box. Place additional styrofoam on the sides of the piece to hold it in place. Place the next full layer of styrofoam on top of your painting.

This is the padding between your painting and the top sheet of plywood. Put this down and make sure it’s nice and cozy. Screw in your top sheet of plywood.

Everything is safe and secure inside your box. Once you have your painting firmly and securely in the box, screw the top sheet of plywood onto the frame. And voila! A coffin for a painting.

Packing your painting:

archival paper.

The first step is to wrap your piece in acid-free archival paper. It is important that this is the layer that touches your piece as it ensures that your painting will not be damaged even if moisture does allow the paper to adhere to the painting as the paper is acid free and no chemicals or bleach will transfer onto it your painting. silica gel packs.

You know those little humidity and dehumidification packages? Slide a handful of these behind the archival paper. This also helps keep your piece dry and free from moisture damage or warping. plastic wrap.

Wrap your piece in plastic wrap. I use moving grade plastic wrap which should keep moisture, bugs etc out of your packaging. Wrap it up nice and tight. Card your corners.

Once you’ve got your plastic wrap on, construct corner protectors out of cardboard. The corners of a painting are often the areas most easily damaged or warped, so it’s important to protect them. bubble wrap.

Never enough bubble wrap, friends. I wrap my pieces in bubble wrap three times, alternating directions each time. Wrap it vertically, horizontally, vertically. strapping.

Now that you’ve wrapped everything in bubble wrap, make sure everything stays in place by using several cross sections of strapping tape. Put it in the box! The piece is fully wrapped in archival paper, plastic wrap, cardboard reinforced corners, three layers of bubble wrap and strapped in place with duct tape. This is the bottom of the piece with the first layer of styrofoam. At this stage the bottom and sides of the box are screwed together and the styrofoam is glued to the bottom. This is where the piece is placed in the crate and padded with tight styrofoam corners to ensure it doesn’t move around during the ride. The part is stored safely and directly in the box. Now it’s time to put in the styrofoam layer before sealing the top layer of plywood. Voila! fully sealed and secured for freight shipment.

AND IT’S THAT EASY! Honestly it was easier than I expected. I always pack my paintings myself, but I usually put them in a box or take them to a courier for shipping. The whole process from gathering the materials to unpacking took me probably six hours in total. This was with the support of my husband who helped me cut my sheets of plywood. But for the time it took and how difficult it is to find a local boxing company, it was worth it and easier than I thought it would be to box my own painting.

The finished box was 60 inches by 82 inches and weighed 146 pounds. And because I know I’ll keep asking this question, I’m going to tell you how much the entire shipment cost. I shipped this cargo from Northern Virginia to Northern California, my crate materials cost me $334 and the trucking company charged $1764 for fully insured delivery totaling $2098 to ship the item. This does not include the cost of the painting and the time and materials it took to create the piece.

Shipping is the worst part of my job, but I’m trying to get better at it. Hopefully this sheds more light on a large part of my studio practice and expenses. Let me know if you have any questions about the packaging process or shipping large works!

If you learned something in this post, please share it with your friend or fellow artist! Follow me on Instagram @christineolmstead Pinterest @christineolmstead Facebook @ceolmstead

This post may contain affiliate links. I may receive commissions on purchases made through links in this post. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.

Traveling with artwork isn’t easy (especially when you’re traveling on a budget), but if you’re looking to expand your artwork horizons, here are a few tips:

1. Work small and light

Paint small or have your artwork broken down into several smaller components that fit in a suitcase. This makes traveling very easy.

For example, when I took my work to an exhibition in Cuba, I brought a piece that expanded to about 40″ x 60″ and consisted of separate sections sewn onto a cloth that I could fold. (The whole thing fits in an express mailbox!)

That was a good experience, but I also have a bad one:

Last month I traveled to Prague with 12 paintings on canvas on their wooden supports. I got fancy and bought the expensive ones which means they were HEAVY and difficult to transport. Choose light wooden supports and your journey will be much easier!

2. Avoid using oversized suitcases

Checking in oversized suitcases on the plane is very expensive (not to mention inconvenient).

Also keep in mind that people outside the US don’t typically have oversized cars and taxis are tiny. I made this mistake once when I brought 11 pieces (which were approximately 18″ x 24″) to Puerto Rico. Luckily we were able to travel by van, otherwise I don’t know how I would have managed with those big suitcases.

3. Don’t pack your art in boxes

Airlines usually do not allow boxes for international travel. I did this once with the same 18″ x 24″ frames and nearly lost my flight and display opportunity.

However, one thing you can do is cover the box with a cloth bag. Then it becomes a suitcase! I sent 3 pictures this way to another exhibition in the Dominican Republic and it worked.

4. Work flat

The flatter your artwork, the better. Flat artwork means you can potentially cram it all into a single portfolio, and that’s really ideal!

In 2010 my friend Raquel and I took our work traveling, so I bought folding easels (for quick and easy presentations) and made several paintings on flat canvas boards. It was such a great system that I didn’t even have to pay for excess weight or extra baggage on those flights.

5. Check the airline’s rules for traveling with art

I only thought of this last month while trying to figure out the best way to get 12 paintings (which were 1.5″ thick) to Prague.

We ended up checking the suitcases and taking the paintings as hand luggage because the airline has mandated that you are not allowed to inspect artworks and if you do you have to sign a release statement.

I wrapped the paintings in interleaving paper and placed them face to face (2 paintings + 2 paintings + 2 paintings) in a plastic bag, then in a large Costco bag.

The two packs of 6 each fit perfectly in the luggage compartment.

6. Create a packing checklist

It is very important that you know exactly what you need before you fly!

I forgot to pack duct tape for Prague and wrapping the pictures in the interleaves for the return flight was no fun. They unpacked again and again.

Good luck and good luck in your future art journeys!

For more information from Tanya Torres, visit her blog at hoy-artista.blogspot.com.

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Most paint and varnish-related solvents are regulated as flammable liquids and are prohibited in carry-on or checked baggage.

Many (but not all) artists’ paints are non-flammable and, provided they do not pose another hazard, can be carried in carry-on and checked baggage. However, paint not marked as non-flammable by the manufacturer could be removed from baggage by airport security. If the manufacturer’s Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) states that the paints are non-flammable, packaging the MSDS with the paints can help prevent them from being removed from baggage.

Introduction Packaging a painting can provide important physical protection and help protect it from brief fluctuations in humidity, whether it is being hand-carried on a site trip or further packaged for shipping. A well-sealed package allows the organic components within the package (e.g., the wood of a stretcher or panel, the linen of a canvas) to moderate the relative humidity (RH) in the enclosed airspace, as long as there are no extreme temperature fluctuations during of transportation. If a temperature change of more than a few degrees is expected during transportation, thermal insulation is also required. For additional protection (insulation, padding, and packaging for shipping), see the Bibliography and Related Reading sections. For the purposes of this notice, it is assumed that paintings have been assessed for travel (see CCI Note 10/15 Paintings – Pre-Travel Considerations) and are in good condition prior to packing (see CCI Note 10/6 Condition Report – Paintings Part I: Introduction and CCI Note 10/7 Condition Reporting – Paintings Part II: Investigative Techniques and a Checklist). It is important that backing boards are fitted to paintings (see CCI Note 10/10 Backing Boards for Paintings on Canvas), particularly before packing for travel. If paintings have been framed and glazed, ensure that the recommended glazing is kept well away from the painted surface by a spacer (see CCI Note 10/8 Framing a Painting). Some paintings, due to their size or weight, fragility or condition, require special preparation or assistance prior to packaging. If you are unsure of any special requirements, consult a restorer. Read this note in its entirety before beginning any packaging project to determine which arrangements and materials to choose for a particular painting. To ensure that the materials used for wrapping and packaging are conditioned to the appropriate RH level, it is important to package the painting while it is in a suitable environment (see CCI Note 10/4 Environmental and Presentational Guidelines for paintings) and to Store all hygroscopic (water vapor absorbing and releasing) materials used for packaging (e.g. cardboard) in the same environment for at least one day before wrapping and packaging. Materials needed for packing: suitable travel frame (if the painting is unframed or the frame is fragile)

Low tack adhesive tape for glass glazing, if available

padded frame corner covers (if required)

Packaging/box sealing tape (this type of tape is usually easy to remove without damaging the packaging material)

Scissors, utility knife, and a straight edge (such as a steel ruler)

Bubble wrap or thin, closed-cell foam sheet

clear plastic wrap (Mylar or clean, uncoated polyethylene)

solid cardboard (or stiffer cardboard if needed)

marker

Packaging a Framed Painting A painting in good condition and in an appropriate frame or travel frame (see Packaging an Unframed Painting—Using a Travel Frame) or with appropriate border trimming (see CCI Note 10/8 Framing a Painting). packed as described here. If the depth of the frame or the border trim does not prevent the packing material from contacting the paint surface, secure the painting in a shipping-transport-storage frame (HTS) before packing (see Packing an Unframed Painting – Using a Shipping Frame). ). If a painting’s frame contains regular (non-laminated) glass glazing (and appropriate spacers): consider replacing the glass with museum quality anti-reflective laminated glass if the painting is larger than 1m2 (and if the frame is sufficiently strong ) (Green et al. 2005). This is to prevent the artwork from being damaged by sharp pieces of glass in the event of breakage. Museum quality anti-reflective acrylic is another option. Note that acrylic is easily scratched and under certain rare conditions can shatter into sharp pieces on impact (Freemantle 2005).

Consider taping the entire exterior surface of non-laminated glass with strips of low-tack protective tape (refer to glass manufacturer’s instructions for finish) so that if the glass breaks, the tape can hold shards in place that could be punctured or otherwise damaged damage the artwork. (Although according to tests by Green et al. [2005] the damage to a painting was often similar whether or not the glass was taped.) The tape should be carefully and gently removed as soon as possible after the trip, to avoid damaging the glass glass surface treatment or coating (and removed slowly to avoid bending and rebounding the glass). Shipping fragile glass separately and reinstalling it upon arrival at destination is another option. However, this would require greater handling of the painting, with attendant risks. If the corners of the frame are fragile but can withstand direct contact with upholstery material, make padded corner covers that fit over them. This third step may be optional if the painting is adequately cushioned by other means in a packing box. Cut a piece of bubble wrap (e.g. Bubble Wrap, AirCap) or a sheet of thin, flexible, closed-cell foam (e.g. Microfoam, Volara) large enough to completely encase the painting and frame and to allow an overlap. Place this foam sheet or bubble wrap (bubble side up) on a clean, flat surface. Cut a piece of clear plastic sheeting (polyethylene, 2 to 4 mil [50.8 to 101.6 µm] or Mylar) large enough to completely wrap the painting, leaving an overlap of the edges of about 8 cm (3 inches) to the back. Place this plastic wrap on top of the bubble wrap or foam (if using) or on a clean, flat, padded surface. Cut a sheet of rigid cardstock to the exact outside dimensions of the front of the frame. For even better protection, cut the cardboard larger than the frame, then score and bend it so it folds over the sides of the frame. Make sure the cardboard is stiff enough so that it doesn’t sag over the frame and touch the surface of the painting when you attach it. A larger painting may require a stiffer material (e.g. multiwall cardboard). The carton is held in place by the subsequent tight packaging. This board across the front of the frame will help protect the painting from accidental hits to its surface. If the cardboard has been stored in an environment suitable for the painting, it will increase the RH-moderating capacity of the painting’s organic materials when sealed in the plastic wrap. Place the prepared cardboard face down on the plastic. Option: A second piece of cardboard can be cut for the back of the painting. In addition, if the front and back cardboard are cut so that their folded edges overlap, a box is formed. This provides even more protection and creates flat edges around the painting that are easier to pad in a box or crate. Ensure that the painting does not shift within the box during handling and shipping by adding non-abrasive material along the gaps between the painting’s frame and the box. Make sure that the material cannot shift or slip and touch the painting. Mark which sides are the front and which are the back to help those who will be unpacking. Place the framed or edge-stripped painting face down on the cardboard (Figure 1), making sure the surface of the painting is not touching it. © Government of Canada, Canadian Conservation Institute. CCI 120554-0001 Figure 1. Framed painting positioned on cardboard and wrapped in mylar or plastic and then sealed with tape. Added layer of bubble wrap for light cushioning all around. Position the backing board, if used, on the back of the painting. If the cardboard edges were folded so that they overlap (step 5, option), position the front folded edges over the back and tape the overlaps. Make sure that the painting cannot shift in the cardboard sleeve. Wrap the plastic fairly tightly around the painting and cardboard so that it overlaps on the back board (or on the back board if using). Tape the overlapping edges and any other edges of the plastic with packing or box tape to create a good seal. (Cardboard tape can usually be removed later without tearing the plastic. Fold one end of the tape back on itself before applying. Pulling on this end will make it easier to remove the tape without using cutting tools.) Make sure nothing in this packaging can move. Finally, wrap the bubble wrap or foam (from step 3 if using) around the plastic wrapped painting. Tape all edges with packing or box tape to create a good seal. Mark which sides of the package are the front and back to facilitate packaging location and for those who will be unpacking. Provide instructions for safely unpacking and unpacking (and repacking if necessary). The boxed painting is now ready to be carefully carried from door to door by a trained local person (weather conditions permitting, and with added thermal insulation if a change in temperature is expected) or further padded and insulated in a suitable one Shipping packaging (see bibliography and further reading; in particular Mecklenburg [1991] and Richard et al. [1991]).

Packing an Unframed Painting – Using a Shipping Frame A painting in good condition but without a deep enough frame or without adequate border trim (see CCI Note 10/8 Framing a Painting) may be protected by a shipping frame before being packed and then shipped with padding. Once a painting is in a shipping frame as described below, follow the instructions in Packing a Framed Painting. A travel frame protects a frameless painting or a framed painting with a fragile frame. A shipping frame also makes a painting stronger and more rigid, reducing the risk to the painting during handling or if accidentally dropped. The sides of a travel frame should be deep enough so that a cover placed over the painting (or any packing material secured around the HTS frame) touches only the travel frame and not the painting. A travel rack can be made from a variety of materials, but is usually made of wood. As a travel frame, the Canadian Conservation Institute (CCI) recommends using an HTS frame (Figures 2a and 2b) based on a design developed at the National Gallery of Canada. An HTS frame is suitable for paintings with or without a frame and is particularly suitable for acrylic paintings and other paintings whose surfaces are too fragile to even come into temporary contact with a travel frame. The HTS frame can also serve as a permanent storage frame as no material touches the paint finish. Please note for paintings expected to be transported internationally (including from Canada to the United States): if wooden material is used, the wood should be treated against pests and the approved marking according to the International Standard for Phytosanitary Measures No. 15 (ISPM 15 -9) to avoid import and export of harmful pests (visit Canadian Food Inspection Agency for more details). Policies for importing and exporting wood products may vary by country. To avoid most problems, the Canadian Conservation Institute recommends using plywood (a wood product) to make HTS and travel frames for trips outside of Canada. A painting can be attached to an HTS frame with simple patch panels. However, these plates have the disadvantage that the screws that attach them to the painting have to be loosened and tightened for each use. This exposes the finish to the risks associated with handling each time the panels are adjusted. Hinged fasteners such as Oz Clips or similar hangers used at the Tate in the UK and other art museums have the advantage of being able to be permanently attached to the back of an unframed painting’s stretcher (or its frame if it has one), without the need for repeated loosening and re-tightening (image 3). They are used in the closed position for display and in the open position to attach the painting to an HTS frame. Repeatedly screwing screws in and out of the same screw holes on the HTS frame will eventually result in the holes no longer being able to hold the screws (especially, for example, during a traveling exhibition). Consider using threaded T-nut fasteners in the wood of an HTS frame to reduce wear on the wood. When measuring for the HTS frame, leave enough space between the sides of the painting and the shipping frame to easily position, attach, or remove the painting (Figure 4). © Government of Canada, Canadian Conservation Institute. CCI 120554-0002 Figure 2a. Construction detail of the HTS frame with lap joints (thus flat surface inside). © Government of Canada, Canadian Conservation Institute. CCI 120554-0003 Figure 2b. Simple lap joints can be used when attaching fasteners to the parent boards of the frame that connect to the painting. (Blocks or spacer boards are required if bottom boards are used to attach additional fasteners.) © Government of Canada, Canadian Conservation Institute. CCI 120554-0004 Figure 3. Articulated fasteners on a painting stretcher (shown in open position). The top fastener has an integrated D-ring for hanging the painting for display. © Government of Canada, Canadian Conservation Institute. CCI 120554-0006 Figure 4. Positioning a painting with fasteners in an HTS frame. Larger paintings may require additional fasteners. Once a painting is in a suitable travel frame, pack it as previously described (see Packing a Framed Painting).

The wrapped painting. Further package it as needed to protect the painting from all anticipated handling and transportation hazards (such as shock, vibration, puncture, large temperature changes, and compressive forces). Provide special unpacking instructions etc. Ensure that the final paint package is: puncture and dent resistant, front, back and sides during transport and associated handling

sealed against moisture and water ingress

padded to protect the painting from possible shocks during handling and transport

insulated and in an air-conditioned vehicle to protect the paint from cold, extreme heat and rapid temperature changes

are prevented from shifting during transport – both the painting in its packaging and the packaging in the vehicle

Bibliography Freemantle, Rosie. “Glazing: A Review of Glazing Possibilities for Works of Art on Paper.” Tate Papers 3 (Spring 2005).

Green, T., S. Hackney, and R. Perry. “Breaking Glass: Perception and Risk.” In International Council of Museums – Committee for Conservation (ICOM-CC) 14th Triennial Meeting, The Hague, 12-16. II. London, UK: James & James, 2005, pp. 632–638.

Mecklenburg, M., ed. “Art in Transit: Studies in the Transport of Paintings”. In papers presented at the International Conference on the Packaging and Transportation of Paintings, 9-11. September 1991, London, UK. Washington, DC: National Gallery of Art, 1991.

Further Reading APA – The Engineered Wood Association. “Crate Making.” In Materials Handling (available as a free PDF with registration at

How do you pack a picture frame in a suitcase?

Cut a piece of cardboard or foam board slightly larger than the frame, place it over the glass and secure it with packing tape. Wrap the entire piece in two or more sheets of packing paper and tape loose ends. If you want, add a layer of Bubble Wrap for additional padding and security. Secure with packing tape.

Crating + Display — Art Crating, Inc.

How do you transport artwork on a plane?

Package the art in a cushioned box or suitcase. Check with the airline before flying to ensure the packaged artwork meets carry-on requirements and that the airplane has the means to stow the art safely. Most airlines allow you to travel with crated artwork in your checked luggage.

Crating + Display — Art Crating, Inc.

Is glass allowed in hand luggage?

Yes, you can bring glass on a plane. Glass, glass picture frames and glass vases are allowed in checked and carry on luggage according to the TSA. Glass bottles less than 100ml are allowed in hand luggage, if not they go in the hold, with no quantity limit on alcohol less than 24%ABV and up to 5 litres for 24-70%ABV.

Crating + Display — Art Crating, Inc.

Can I bring a poster on a plane?

The poster definitely counts as one of your two allowed items. …Or it should. Airlines sometimes don’t enforce the rule. And assuming it doesn’t fit under the seat in front of you, it should count as your overhead bin item, not your “small personal item”. In practice, the poster is a free 3rd carry-on.

Crating + Display — Art Crating, Inc.

Travel through Art with The Frame

Travel through Art with The Frame

Travel through Art with The Frame

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See some more details on the topic travel frame for artwork here:

Travel Frames – Etsy

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Shipping Crates, Mailing Crates and Travel Frames

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Halo Art Travel Frame Kits – TALAS

TALAS offers a variety of Halo Art Storage Frame kits suitable for storing and traveling with your art. Browse our selection today!

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Travel frames | Interlinea Srl

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Crate Comparison: Shipping a Painting vs a Sculpture

At Art Work FAS, we understand that every artwork you ship requires specific packaging and handling instructions before and during the shipping process. We pride ourselves on taking care of the details to get your artwork safely and securely to its destination, whatever the shape or size of the piece.

Read on to find out how we address the differences between shipping a painting versus a sculpture with our customizable crate services.

Shipping a painting

If you have an oversized piece or one with a fragile finish, a travel frame can be a good choice for your artwork. Travel frames are designed to be economical and provide excellent surface protection for large or delicate artworks.

Our travel frames are constructed from strong 1×6, 1×8 and 1×10 panels. We offer two styles: open slatted frames that are sealed with plastic wrap after packing, and closed slatted frames with durable wood and ribbed plastic covers on the front and back.

When packaging sculptures in travel frames, we use brass Oz clips or steel patch plates to allow us to package artwork without touching the sides or front of the piece. Foam bumpers can be added or replaced as appropriate for the job.

Shipping a sculpture

If you use shuttle transportation and have a large or delicate sculpture, crates may be the right option for your piece. Slatted crates work particularly well for parts that may be more difficult to maneuver or pack. They’re also economical solutions for large sculptures, as they’re typically less expensive than a closed box.

Our crates start with a pallet bottom, and all sides are always removable to make packing and unpacking as easy and safe as possible. Crates can have two solid sides and two grid sides, or four grid sides and an open grid top. We adapt the size and structure of our crates to the requirements of your sculpture or 3D object. For heavier items we construct the crate sides from 2×4, 2×6 or 2x8s.

To pack a slatted crate, we typically use wooden struts padded with thick foam pads. The bumpers are covered with non-abrasive material where they touch the artwork. We take care to place the clips in places that are stable and can hold your item firmly in place. We also label and code the braces to make unpacking clear and as easy as possible.

Upgrade to closed crates for high-value items or international travel

Our travel frames and crates are excellent options for domestic travel and storage. For the rigors of extended touring, international destinations, or for particularly high-value or delicate items, we can add a closed outer crate to the travel frame or slatted crate. An outer box fully encloses the chassis or slatted box with solid plywood sides and provides additional padding as the chassis or slatted box is suspended from foam bumpers in the outer box.

The Art Work FAS team will work with you to determine which methods best suit your needs by comparing timeframes, pricing and handling considerations. We take care of all the little details of packing and packing your artwork so you can send it on its journey with peace of mind.

Work with experts in dealing with art

Art Work Fine Art Services has been the trusted logistics partner for some of America’s most respected museums, galleries, collectors and artists for nearly 30 years. We specialize in providing expert and customized solutions for domestic and international shipping, storage and preservation of artworks. Our team consists of passionate experts in many mediums including design, painting, printmaking, carpentry, photography and sculpture. Art Work FAS provides services in Portland and Seattle, as well as in California’s Bay Area and Silicon Valley, Los Angeles, New York City and the Rocky Mountains.

To request a quote or to learn more about Art Work Fine Art Services services, visit artworkfas.com.

Shipping Crates, Mailing Crates and Travel Frames

In our Elephant and Castle workshop we build bespoke shipping crates, shipping crates and travel frames.

Whilst we primarily supply the art, antique and furniture industries, our shipping crates are suitable for transporting almost anything that needs it. We offer a range of different products. Depending on what needs to be moved and your budget, we can build something to safely transport your artwork or valuable cargo.

What is the difference between a shipping box, shipping crate and T-frame?

shipping boxes

Manufactured primarily for international shipping, our shipping crates are sturdy wood and plywood crates designed to house artwork for a lifetime of transportation around the world. They can be used over and over again whenever the artwork needs to be moved. We only use heat-treated wood that complies with international shipping regulation ISPM 15, a legal requirement that allows the crate to cross borders while complying with IPPC (International Plant Protection Convention) regulations. Our crates can be manufactured to be fully collapsible for top or side loading as required.

We can build boxes for multiple artworks or items and unless otherwise stated all internal surfaces are lined with 25mm ether foam. We use high quality hardwood plywood in all our crates and use different thicknesses (6mm, 9mm, 12mm and 18mm) depending on what goes in.

If a crate is heavy or large, we can fit a pallet base for easy transport with a pallet truck or forklift.

shipping boxes

Shipping crates are a stripped down version of a shipping crate designed for UK courier transport of 2-D artworks. They are constructed from many of the same materials as the shipping crates, but with less wood reinforcement. This helps to reduce weight, which in turn reduces transport costs.

We started building these for local print galleries. We are able to pack multiple works in the same box, but we recommend that if you have more than a few you consider a full shipping box.

We always recommend you use the heavier reinforced shipping crate for international shipping, but the wood we use in our shipping crates is the same heat treated ISPM 15 wood required for port handling.

T frame

T-frames are an economical standard solution in the fine arts industry to safely transport a single painting when traveling between galleries and clients (e.g. for viewing) or when in storage. Although generally designed for short-distance travel, we use the same heat-treated wood as the international ISPM 15 crates, so they’re ready to travel wherever you take them.

If you’re just looking for a local or UK transport solution without having to see the artwork inside, we recommend the over the T-frame shipping crate. We do not recommend using T-Frames with third party couriers or carriers.

Crating + Display — Art Crating, Inc.

The mobile frame (T-frame) is ideal for work with delicate surfaces that cannot come into contact with packaging materials of any kind. In addition to our standard pine frame construction with pine slats and metal handles, we offer custom solutions such as: B. Coroplast skins for extra protection and solid plywood backing for irregular shaped works. With the artwork hung inside and securely fastened, the travel frame can be boxed for international travel or transported as is for domestic shipping or storage.

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