Twisted Trunk Bay Tree? Top 99 Best Answers

Complicated double corkscrew shaft

The Large Twisted Bay Tree is a splash of the Mediterranean in your own home. The striking beauty of the twisted stem mixed with the flower arrangement makes for a unique gifting experience. The Twisted Bay Tree will amaze and delight on any occasion, making it a truly special gift that will be loved for years to come.

The bay tree makes an ideal gift for someone who loves food, smells and textures. This versatile gift can be used in so many ways and will bring joy again and again. The perfect occasion would be moving to a new home, a wedding anniversary or just a lovely gift for a dinner party.

The twisted stem gives the beautiful dark green leaves an unusual lift. The beauty of the Twisted Bay Tree lies in its color and fragrance. This will make a stunning display in any home.

Bay laurel, Laurus nobilis, is one of those garden wonders that serves more than one purpose. Aside from adding evergreen decorative interest to indoor and outdoor spaces with their glossy, deep green foliage, the leaves can also add aromatic flavor to your kitchen. Even if you don’t like the taste of bay leaves, the camphor-like scent when you brush past this plant is something to check out. When you grow laurel, there may be times when your tree will no longer thrive in its current location. Or it may have outgrown its current container and could benefit from a repot. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy through one of our links, we may receive a commission.

If you need to replant your laurel tree, you’ve come to the right place.

Here’s what I’ll cover in this article:

Get your spade and get ready to dig.

Why transplant laurel?

If your laurel is perfectly happy with the growing conditions in its current home, then why transplant everything? There are a variety of reasons, starting with the possibility that it has outgrown its existing space.

Whether you grow her in a container or in the ground, you might reach a point where the plant needs more space to spread out.

How can you tell if your L. nobilis needs transplanting?

Determining the right time to transplant a container grown plant is easier than one that is grown in the ground. For example, you can see roots growing out of the drainage hole in the bottom of a pot or protruding from the surface of the earth.

It’s normal to notice a few yellowed leaves throughout the growing season, but when your tree is stressed, more leaves than usual may turn yellow or brown and fall off the plant.

If it’s growing in soil, it’s generally good to leave your L. nobilis in place unless it encroaches on other plants with its spread or grows taller than you’d like.

You may have an existing plant that you’d rather move to a new location – if you’re moving into a new house or doing a landscaping project in your yard.

Or maybe you have a seedling that you grew from a cutting or grew from seed.

In all of these cases, unless it’s already particularly large, don’t be afraid to dig it up and give it a new home.

A massive bay tree is not a good candidate for transplanting. If the mature tree is over five feet tall, you will likely have difficulty digging up the entire extensive root system, and the plant may experience transplant shock or die after transplanting.

If this is the case, you can drastically prune your plant instead of transplanting it. Laurel trees are hardy plants and can take some serious pruning. You can remove up to half of the plant in the fall or early spring with no ill effects.

Learn more about how and when to prune bay laurel in this guide. (soon!)

When is the right time?

If you have a planting emergency—construction work, moving to a new house, etc.—it’s technically possible to transplant a laurel any time of the year.

But if you want the greatest chance of success, fall or winter is the best time to move your plant as long as you can till the soil.

In the cooler months, the plants are dormant. This means your laurel is not putting energy into new growth, flowering or seeding, giving it a chance to focus on recovery and root growth.

Cooler weather also gives your L. nobilis a better chance of avoiding transplant shock, and since the weather is usually wetter at this time of year, the roots are not usually threatened by drought and heat stress as they might be in summer.

This of course depends on where you live and the local climate and weather.

You can also opt for an early spring transplant if you must, but you risk stunting the plant’s growth for the coming season.

If you plan to transplant in the spring, make sure you do so early enough – before new growth shows up – to give the plant enough time to acclimate and recover from the shock of the move.

How to transplant

The number one goal when transplanting should be to dig up as much of the root ball as possible. Laurel roots are shallow, but they grow wide.

You need to dig at least as wide as the plant’s foliage, or wider if you notice you’re encountering a lot of thick roots.

Dig down until you can still see pencil-sized roots. For reference, for a tree three feet tall, the root ball should be at least 14 inches wide and 12 inches deep.

It helps if your spade has been freshly sharpened so it cuts cleanly through the roots. This allows them to heal faster.

Carefully work the plant out of the soil by continuously digging up and tipping the plant slightly, and use your spade to gently wedge it out of the soil.

The finer feed roots can be left behind if needed, but gently prying them up with the rest of the root ball while you work will help if you can.

If you’re trying to pry out the root ball and it’s stuck in the ground, you can use scissors to snip off any stubborn remaining roots if you can’t dig them out.

You want to be sure to replant as soon as possible after removing it from the ground. The biggest risk with transplanting your tree is that the roots will dry out before it is replanted, which could spell disaster.

If you can’t plant right away, wrap the root ball in burlap and keep it moist in a shady spot.

It’s a good idea to prepare the planting area before you start digging up your laurel so you can loosen the soil first and dig a hole so the new location is ready. But since you may not be able to accurately estimate how big the root ball will be when you dig it up, a bit of extra digging may be required before you can set the dug up roots in place.

Whether you’re moving your plant to a new container or a new spot in the ground, you need to make sure the roots have enough space to spread out.

Planting in the ground means digging a hole that is as deep and twice as wide as the root ball of your existing plant.

Before placing the plant in the hole, carefully loosen the roots and spread them out a bit. None of the roots should be twisted or tightly packed when transplanted.

Fill it halfway with soil and add water. Step back and make sure the tree is level. Fill up the rest and water the plant again with water. You want to give the plant about a half gallon of water for every square foot of soil surface that you’ve displaced.

Make sure the plant doesn’t sit any lower than it originally grew or you run the risk of suffocating the roots.

Don’t fertilize until mid-spring if you transplanted in the fall or winter. If you transplanted at any other time, wait a month or two before fertilizing your plant.

Repot container bay

If you’re growing your laurel in a container, it’s time to transplant when you can see roots growing out of the base, or when you remove the plant from its container and can see the roots growing in a circular pattern along the inside of the container wall .

If you’re growing it in a clay or terracotta container, it’s also time to repot if the clay seems to dry out quickly and you need to water more frequently.

Don’t transplant into a much larger container unless you want your plant to grow taller quickly. If you want a more manageable size, use a container just a few inches larger than the one it was previously grown in.

To remove the plant from its original container, tilt the pot and grasp the plant firmly around the stem as close to the base as possible. Roll the container back and forth while gently pulling. It can be helpful to do this when the soil is slightly dry, since potting soil expands when wet.

Once you have removed your plant from its pot, use your hands to gently loosen the root ball and cut away dead roots.

Fill the new pot with enough soil so the laurel sits at the same height as it did in its previous container. Place the plant in its new container and fill in the edges with potting soil. Now it’s time to give it a good soak.

Don’t fertilize for the first two to three months, after which you can resume your regular fertilizing schedule.

How to deal with transplant shock

Transplant shock occurs when your newly transplanted laurel is not happy about the big move and is not thriving. This can result from a disturbance in the roots or if the plant was heavily pruned before digging up.

You should not heavily prune your bay tree three months before and after transplanting.

Plants are more likely to go into shock when the weather is extremely dry or hot, which is why it’s recommended to transplant during the cooler months. Larger plants tend to suffer more than smaller ones.

If your plant starts to droop or shed its leaves shortly after transplanting, don’t panic. Your plant will need a little baby care for a while, but it will probably be fine.

Start by giving it a little more water than usual. When a plant loses part of its root system, it won’t be able to absorb as much water as it used to, so you need to give it a helping hand. Make sure the soil is well-drained so it doesn’t stand in standing water either.

You can also apply two inches of organic mulch such as leaf mold, wood shavings, or straw. This helps protect the roots from heat and helps retain moisture in the soil. Don’t place mulch against the trunk at the base of the tree—leave a 1 to 2 inch gap around the trunk.

Share this…

Pinterest LinkedIn

Bay leaves are a common culinary herb, often used in stews or other dishes and removed before eating. The laurel tree (also known as laurel, laurel, or just bay laurel) is also grown ornamentally, used as a hedge, and used as a topiary.

So if you’re one of the many people who enjoy growing laurel trees (botanical name Laurus nobilis), you’ll want your tree to be as healthy as possible. But what if your laurel tree dies? What can be the reason and what do you do about it?

In this article, I’m going to talk about the most common reasons for laurel tree deaths and how you can fix all of these problems. Let’s get into that!

Bay trees can die due to overwatering or underwatering, lack of sunlight, lack of nutrients in the soil, and cold weather. They can also lose leaves naturally due to age, and there are some diseases and pests that can affect bay trees.

Too much water for bay trees

One of the most common causes of bay tree death is overwatering. This is often reflected in yellowed leaves, and sometimes these leaves will become blotchy before turning fully yellow.

Once established, laurel trees are somewhat drought tolerant. But when a bay tree is still establishing itself, it’s important that it doesn’t dry out completely between waterings. In general, you should check the soil before watering. When the top inch is dry, you can go ahead and water—otherwise, wait a few more days.

If your bay tree is in a pot, it’s important that you have drainage holes and well-drained soil. For trees in the ground, mixing organic matter like compost into the soil will help it drain better.

Sometimes overwatering leads to root rot. If your bay tree shows signs of damage, it’s good to check the roots. If they start turning black and mushy, root rot has taken hold. If this happens, you can try transplanting your laurel tree, removing the infected roots, but it may already be too late.

Root rot is difficult to treat, so it’s best to avoid overwatering your bay trees. And make sure they have well-drained soil.

Laurel trees under water

Dry leaves on the laurel tree

Conversely, you can also flood your laurel trees, especially when they become established, which can cause them to die off. Laurel trees have shallow roots, and while they are establishing themselves, they need quite a bit of water to stay healthy. This is doubly true for potted laurel trees, as pots dry out faster than soil in the ground.

Bay leaves wilt under water, then turn brown and wither. If you notice that your bay leaves are wilting, all you have to do is give them a little water and they’ll start to recover.

So laurel trees do not like to dry out completely. Instead, stop watering until the top inch of soil is dry, and then water your bay tree. But be careful not to let them soak in too much excess water either.

Bay trees don’t get enough sunlight

Laurel trees prefer full sunlight, which means at least 8 hours of direct light per day. If they get less, their health can suffer.

While they tolerate partial shade, if a laurel tree doesn’t get enough light, its leaves can turn yellow or sometimes light green. The only way to fix this is to put your bay tree in a spot where it gets plenty of light. Make sure it isn’t overshadowed by other trees or the corner of a building.

Nutrient problems in laurel trees

A healthy bay tree has recognizable deep green leaves. If your bay tree’s leaves are turning light green or yellow, it could be a sign that you have a nutrient deficiency in the soil.

The lack of nutrients such as nitrogen and phosphorus can cause the leaves to change color and eventually cause other problems with the tree such as: B. Withering and dying. An imbalance in nutrients can also change the pH of the soil and cause other problems.

The only way to find out if this is the problem is to test your soil with a simple soil test kit. This will tell you if any of your nutrient levels or soil pH are out of balance.

If you are lacking a specific nutrient, all you have to do is add that nutrient to the soil. This often corrects the pH as well, so you can fix two problems in one. The best way to do this is to find a fertilizer rich in the nutrients your soil is lacking.

Cold damage to laurel trees

Another common reason for bay tree deaths is cold damage. This often occurs early in the season due to early spring frosts or early fall and winter.

Laurel trees are hardy down to a temperature of -6°C, but as soon as temperatures drop below that they can start struggling. Your ideal range is 4-15°C (40-60°F) or higher. Since these are evergreen perennials, if you live in a colder region, bring them indoors during the winter if possible.

Cold damage to bay trees often takes the form of cracked or peeling bark. Usually this gets better on its own as temperatures get warmer. If things don’t get better and the parts of the tree above are dying, you should cut back the dying parts to give the tree time to heal.

To prevent laurel from being damaged by cold, do not bring them outside until temperatures are consistently above -6°C. And make sure you bring it back indoors when temperatures drop again.

Aging of the laurel tree

Yellow leaves on the laurel tree

Sometimes it’s just part of their life cycle that bay leaves turn yellow or fall off. As laurel trees age, some leaves will yellow and fall off, even if the rest of the tree is healthy.

If only some of your bay leaves are dying, you may not need to worry. Just keep an eye on the tree, and if you notice it continuing to spread or other signs of trouble, you’ll know you might have a problem that needs fixing.

Diseases affecting laurel trees

Spots on bay leaves

Laurel trees are incredibly hardy trees that are highly disease resistant. In most cases, you don’t have to worry about laurel diseases. However, there are a few to watch out for as they sometimes cause damage.

The first is Phytophthora rot. As with most diseases, prevention is best as it can be difficult to treat. This fungal disease thrives on excess moisture, so be careful not to overwater your bay trees.

Phytophthora causes black spots in the center or on the edges of bay leaves. The leaves then turn brown, black, or gray as they die. This can also spread to the branches, and you’ll find the roots turning black similarly.

If you notice this, you can try digging up the tree and allowing the roots to dry out after removing the infected parts. If that doesn’t work, you can try an organic biofungicide like this one. However, fungal diseases are difficult to treat, and if all else fails, consider discarding the tree so it doesn’t spread to the rest of your yard.

The other common laurel disease is anthracnose. This is another fungal disease, i. H. it also thrives on too much moisture, which should be prevented. Anthracnose begins with the leaf tips turning black. This will then spread as the leaves rot.

Anthracnose can cause rapid defoliation and loss of branches. Again, you can try the fungicide and remove infected areas, but if that doesn’t work, remove the tree to keep it from spreading.

Pests on laurel trees

There are two common laurel pests to watch out for in your garden.

Laurel suckers, also known as jumping plant lice, do exactly what you would expect: they suck the sap from the leaves of your laurel tree. These pests live in the bark and come out to feed on the leaves, causing yellow spots. Eventually, the entire sheet will yellow and curl.

Normally, laurel bulbs will not kill a laurel tree, but they can weaken the plant. This also makes the plant susceptible to diseases and other problems, which is not good.

To get rid of laurel runners, you can rinse the plant with a mixture of insecticidal soap spray. Also, consider bringing helpful bugs like ladybugs and ground beetles to feed on and deter the laurel suckers.

Brown soft scales can also bother laurel trees. These insects also suck the juice from bay leaves. They excrete honeydew, a sweet, sticky substance on which black powdery mildew can then grow. This reduces photosynthesis in the plant and weakens it as it cannot produce as much energy.

Brown softscales don’t move much as adults, so they’re easy to spot as small brown bugs on your leaves. They aren’t usually fatal, but they can stunt your bay tree’s growth.

Small soft scale infestations can be treated by washing with an insecticidal soap spray or by attracting the helpful insects mentioned. You can also simply wipe the lime off the leaves with a cloth. Using a cotton swab dipped in alcohol to remove them may also work.

If you have a larger infestation it would be worth using horticultural neem oil like this one.

I always prefer to recommend organic products for treating pests and diseases in edible gardening. When using bay leaves in cooking, chemical-free gardening is always the preference. However, if you are growing your bay tree as an ornamental tree, you should consider other treatments. However, remember that chemical treatments have negative effects on the environment, including beneficial insects that help pollinate our gardens.

Related reading:

LAUREL IN CONTAINERS OR OPEN GROUND?

a temperature that does not drop below -5°C (32°F). Below this temperature, the tree can be damaged, especially if it is exposed to windy conditions at the same time. We’ve seen laurel trees grow successfully in lower temperatures, but they are in well-sheltered spots and generally next to the walls of heated buildings. More information on how frost affects bay trees and how to prevent it can be found here.

. the soil must be permeable, heavy loamy soil is not suitable. If your soil is clay, then digging up a large area and mixing the soil with lots of compost and abrasive sand can straighten out the conditions.

Their location should be sheltered from strong winds that would damage the leaves. They prefer a full sun or slightly shaded location in the UK.

This article is primarily about growing bay trees in containers, but they can also be grown outdoors if the right conditions are provided. The specific requirements for growing laurel trees in open ground are:

When creating these conditions, you also need to remember that bay trees that are not pruned regularly can reach 12 m (38 ft) in height and width. So plan enough space when planting.

GROWING LAUREL IN CONTAINERS

Bay trees grown in containers generally take three forms. The bush tree, as seen in the image below (click to enlarge image), standard or lollipop shaped, and those that have undergone topiary and grown into a specific shape.

Container grown trees thrive when regularly either pruned into specific shapes or simply pruned to keep them at a required height and spread. Not only are they excellent evergreens, but their leaves can be used in a variety of cooking recipes at the same time.

BEST POSITION FOR LAUREL IN CONTAINERS

The first rule is to grow your laurel tree out of harsh winds. This includes both cold winter winds and scorching summer breezes. We would go so far as to say that this rule is the most important of all.

In a position where it doesn’t get too much water. This is particularly important in spring, autumn and winter when natural rainfall in the UK is higher than in summer. Laurel trees do not like waterlogged roots at all. If possible, place the pot / container on saucers so that excess water can drain off as quickly as possible.

In winter, place the jar either in an unheated greenhouse or outside against a heated house wall. This prevents windburn and provides minimal protection against harsh cold weather. Never bring your bay tree into a heated house, it will damage it, in most cases significantly.

In full sun or partial shade? Before you decide to do this, make sure that the 3 conditions above are met. If this is the case your bay tree will grow very happily in part shade, although in normal UK weather conditions it has a slight preference for full sun.

The best location for your bay tree is based on years of experience. Finding the right position will go a long way in avoiding those dreaded brown leaves and other environmental problems. In summary:

BUY BAY TREES IN CONTAINERS

Buying bay trees can be something of a minefield. Pictures on the internet are often misleading as to the actual size and of course the laurel tree you receive may not be as good as the picture shows!

It’s not uncommon to pay £50 for a standard lollipop bay tree in good condition, so make sure you’re buying from a reputable company. You might pay a few pounds more, but you’re far more likely to get a tree that’s worth the money.

The packaging is also important, a badly packed or transported bay tree can easily be damaged. Customer service is also important if there is a problem. Choose a company that has been in business for at least several years, that in itself is a guarantee. Companies that have been trading for many years are still trading, and for good reason.

Of all, our personal recommendation at this point would go to Crocus. Click here if you want to order a laurel tree online.

laurel tree care

If you buy a bush laurel tree in a pot, it may have been grown so that a series of shoots growing from the main roots form the young tree you see above ground. This gives you an ideal opportunity to separate one or two of the shoots and replant them as separate bay trees. These individual shoots are the perfect material to create another bush or to experiment and start growing a standard bay tree – all for the price of a single plant.

To do this, carefully dig into the compost around the base of a shoot and trace it as far as you can. At this point, break it off the main root, leaving as many main roots intact as possible. Now just pot in multipurpose soil to the same depth and water well. The bay stem will grow away with almost no control.

Your new bay tree will in all likelihood benefit from being potted soon after purchase. Multi-purpose potting soil works well, especially if the pot is a bit heavy. If the pot is lightweight plastic, you can add some weight to it by potting the new plant in John Innes Compost #2. Drainage is important, so add some rocks to the bottom of the pot before adding compost.

When potting a bay tree, only transplant it into a pot that is slightly larger than the previous one – at most 5 cm / 2 inches wider. If a laurel is given too much space in the pot, it can often suffer for a long time.

For more drainage, it’s a good idea to put pot feet under the bottom of the pot to keep it off the ground and allow excess water to drain away when it rains. As far as feeding goes, a small handful of slow release fertilizers like blood, fish and bones once a month (April to September) will do just fine. Sprinkle it over the surface of the soil and work it in gently so it doesn’t blow away.

Water sparingly when the soil surface is definitely dry. Repot your bay tree into a slightly larger container about every three years. Take this opportunity to carefully loosen some old compost from the roots and surface and replace with new compost.

WHEN AND HOW TO PRUNE LAUREL TREES IN CONTAINERS AND POTS

Laurel trees are very tolerant of minor pruning, although if pruned hard they can take about a year to recover. The best time to prune your bay tree is from late spring to mid-summer. Trim dead or damaged leaves to a healthy bud pointing in the direction you want the stem to grow. Cut into shape as well. We would suggest that a maximum height of 135 cm / 4 ft 6 in is about the highest that most people can effectively handle for an untrained bushy laurel tree.

Bay trees often throw “suckers” or new shoots from just below or just above ground level. That’s fine if you grow them in a bush form, they will simply expand the plant at the base, which is an advantage. However, if you’re growing regular bare-trunk bay trees, those stolons won’t look good. They should be cut off with sharp secateurs if they grow above ground. If you are growing below ground level, simply remove some soil from around the base of the sucker and cut as low as possible. The sucker may appear again in a few months, so just do the same thing again. It doesn’t take many tries (usually one is enough) until the shoot stays pruned! The pruned stolons can be used to propagate new bay trees, but that is beyond the scope of this article.

WHEN AND HOW TO PRUNE LARGE LAUREL TREES

Large bay trees withstand very hard pruning very well, including cutting back the main trunk, it is difficult to permanently damage an established trunk. However, they are known to take two or three years to get back into shape.

Like many trees, they are best pruned in late spring during a dry spell. The plan of action if you want to halve the size of a large bay tree without completely disfiguring it would be to cut down about a quarter of the tree in the first year, then a little less in the second year, and finally grow it to the required size in the third year . Regular pruning thereafter annually in early spring will maintain the desired size. It is really that easy!

Your next question might be what the laurel wood and leaves can be used for. Obviously some of the leaves were meant to be dried and given to friends and family for use as an herb. If you have kids, they will have fun making a laurel wreath to either crown their heads or hang on the door. Young, new baywood can be carved, and if you have really large branches, cut them into a walking stick. Allow the wood to season and dry before use and you’ll have a walking stick for life.

PRUNING LAUREL TREES ON LOLLIPOP / STANDARD SHAPE

There is very little information on the internet showing how to prune bay trees into a lollipop shape as the process takes three to four years. But we did just that and the image below shows the results of our efforts – click on the image to enlarge it.

Two things in particular surprised us about growing this bay tree, the first was how easy it was even though it took four years. The second surprise was how little support the tree needed. The narrow stick you see supporting the trunk has stood the test of time.

If you zoom in you can see more clearly that the top lollipop portion of the laurel tree may not be as narrow as store bought ones, but keep in mind that a laurel lollipop tree of this height would probably cost you over £60 garden center. If we wanted to improve the shape, we would again prune the stems back to just two shoots to get a tighter round shape at the top.

To prune a young single-stem bay tree to make it a lollipop or standard bay tree, first remove all shoots from the main stem (but not the leaves) except for the top growing main shoot. As the bay tree grows tall, remove any shoots that usually appear between a leaf and the main stem.

After two to three years, the stem should have grown to about 90 cm / 3 feet. When the tree is just under the desired height, let out four to six of the top shoots protruding from the main trunk. These shoots then form the bushy upper part of the lollipop tree. Cut off the top of the main trunk to keep the tree from growing taller.

As the top shoots grow, prune the tops after each shoot has produced two to three side shoots. Be sure to prune back to a bud pointing inward to encourage a dense top of the lollipop.

Traditional laurel trees tend to snap in high winds and require the support of a stick tied into the main stem. In the early stages of growth, without a support, your tree will likely start to lean to one side very soon, and a stick is needed at this stage. This is not so much for support (stems are very flexible when young) but more to ensure the main stem grows upright and straight. As the tree continues to grow, the support will become too short and you will have to replace it with a taller stick, you may have to do this 3 or 4 times.

Tie the main stem to the support stick in several places as it grows.

The first picture below shows a young laurel tree that is growing slightly crooked. The second image below shows the same tree tied into a bamboo cane to encourage it to grow straight up. Click on any of the images to enlarge and see it more clearly.

KEEP THE LOLLIPOP SHAPE

If you don’t prune a lollipop-shaped bay tree, it will tend to lose some of its shape over the course of a few years. Two things will happen, first, some stems will grow longer than others, causing the spherical shape to become uneven. Second, the spherical shape becomes looser and the stems spread more loosely. There’s nothing wrong with that, but some people prefer to keep the taut shape like it was when the plant was purchased.

To achieve this, trim the stems back with pruning shears two to three times a year. Crop them to the length you want to keep the shape. You’ll find that you don’t have to prune a lot of stems if you do it regularly, but it will encourage other stems to form, making the shape denser.

When pruning a stem, always do so on an inward-facing bud, even if it means pruning a little too short. When the bud starts growing just below the cut, it will grow inward rather than outward, which also helps maintain the tight lollipop shape.

RECOMMENDED VARIETIES OF LAUREL TREES

Pests and diseases of laurel trees

Bay Tree Sucker

There are very few varieties of laurel other than the common laurel tree found in garden centers, Laurus nobilis. The other alternative is the Laurus nobilis Aurea variety, which has yellower leaves. The first signs you will notice are the edges of some leaves curling inward and beginning to thicken. The edges turn yellow and then brown.

For more signs of bay tree sucker and how to treat them, click here.

BLACK POWDER COATING ON LEAVES

This often looks like a fine layer of soot and can affect all or just a few leaves. It’s caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, which excrete a sugary liquid. This liquid attracts mold and causes the leaves to appear black and coated.

First wash off the black coating with water. If that doesn’t remove it, add a few drops of dish soap to the water and wash away with it. You need to wash each sheet individually with a cloth. Not only does this make the leaves look better and allow them to photosynthesize, but it avoids the unwanted attraction of other insects such as wasps and bees that feed on the sugary liquid.

Then you need to treat the insects that are causing the problem. Simply washing the leaves one by one will remove aphids, pay special attention to the undersides of the leaves. If that doesn’t work, a visit to the garden center for an all-purpose insecticide may be necessary.

BROWN OR YELLOW LEAVES

The most heard complaint is. The first step to fixing this issue is to rule out the laurel runner as the cause of the damage. If it is a laurel tree, the new and younger leaves will curl inward, leaving older leaves mostly untouched. If you unroll a damaged leaf, you’ll likely see a tiny woolly insect, possibly with some white fluffy cobweb material around or nearby. If so, read the previous paragraph.

If not, the cause of the brown leaves is almost certainly an environmental issue – possibly too much or too little water, damage from cold and wind, or occasionally too much heat. The key to managing this damage is creating the right conditions for your laurel tree. Follow the steps below and then wait and see what happens over the next six months. Chances are your tree will recover:

Overwatering, this can be caused by hand watering, poorly positioned containers, or just too much rain.

ACTION

If the container is in a tray, remove it from the tray and stand it on pot legs or at least a brick or two to ensure it never stands in water and allows for maximum drainage. Only water the plant when the top part of the soil is dry. To check this, gently dig a finger into the soil to a depth of about 3 cm / 1 inch. If the soil at the base of your finger feels damp at all, stop watering until it feels dry to the touch.

Underwatering in winter, spring and autumn (in the UK) is rarely a problem as long as bay trees grown in containers are exposed to the elements. Natural precipitation is usually sufficient.

ACTION

During warm weather, especially summer, a container grown bay tree will need regular watering to keep the soil moist but not soggy.

Cold and wind, both can cause significant browning and yellowing of the leaves. If both conditions are present, you will surely have problems. The problem may not occur for a few months, so you need to protect your laurel tree from these conditions year-round.

ACTION

Laurel trees are easily damaged when the temperature drops below -5°C (32°F), so place them near the walls of a heated house in winter to avoid exposure to strong winds. Often the best spot in winter is in a corner between a fence on one side and the walls of the house on the other. They are set to be moved to a more open position in the summer. Clear the area around the tank of any vegetation and preferably place it on a layer of gravel. For more information on how frost affects bay trees and how to prevent it, click here.

General maintenance, dead leaves, compacted soil, and lack of fertilization can all contribute to the overall health of your bay tree. If you find that leaf browning is a problem, take the following actions as well.

ACTION

Remove the top 3cm of compost and replace with clean, new compost.

If you haven’t fed your laurel for a few months during the spring and summer, sprinkle some slow-release fertilizer (blood, fish and bones, but not high-nitrogen fertilizer) onto the soil’s surface and gently work it into the surface. Only do this if you forgot to fertilize your plant beforehand and only a very small handful – a level tablespoon should be enough at first.

Remove any leaves that are completely brown or yellow and dispose of them well away from the plant (burning is best).

Inspect your plant weekly for the next few months (we inspect our bay trees almost daily) and remove any damaged leaves. Be careful not to remove all the leaves at once, even partially damaged leaves will help a plant grow, but only remove a few at a time. Damaged leaves attract bugs and disease, and removing them slowly will improve the overall health of your bay tree.

WHITE MARKS ON BARK AND TRUNK

See the picture below. This is the scale insect and we have a section dedicated to this problem.

BARK PEELING / RIPPING

This is more of an environmental issue than a pest or disease. For bay trees in containers, the problem is primarily caused by overwatering and/or allowing the soil to dry out and then overwatering. Too much water causes the trunk to swell and the bark to crack.

The solution is to limit the amount of watering and also try to maintain an even level of moisture in the soil. Bay trees in containers are very tolerant of lack of water for a month or so. If this has happened, do not soak the soil with water, instead water it back to a moist state over a month or so.

Poor drainage can also be a problem, causing water to pool in the container. Using gravel or pot legs, lift the container slightly off the ground.

Splitting/peeling and cracking of the bark can also be caused by prolonged periods of very cold weather. The frost penetrates into small existing cracks and opens them.

There is nothing that can be done once the bark is split, but if the top of the tree has healthy leaves on it, in all likelihood the tree will be fine if drainage is increased. In cold weather, move containerized trees to a sheltered spot on the side of a house or in an unheated greenhouse.

LAUREL LEAVES HAVE HOLES IN THEM

There are two main causes of leaf holes that can be easily distinguished. There is also a third, less common cause, namely the leafcutter bee. If the damage occurs on the edges of the leaves, then most likely it is caused by. The damage looks like a beetle nibbled at the edges of the leaves, leaving semi-circular jagged damage. The picture below shows the damage.

Typical leaf damage of the weevil

Wine beetles can cause significant damage to all laurel trees (the leaf damage is just the beginning), especially in containers. Take immediate action as directed on our Identifying and Treating This Pest page.

The other common cause of holes in bay leaves is called bullet hole, which is a fungal infection. the picture below shows the typical puncture damage to the leaves, which is usually not at the edge.

Bullet hole damage to leaves

The damage first appears as brown circular spots on the leaves. The brown spots fall out, leaving holes.

Copper fungicide Bordeaux Mix has previously been recommended as a spray to prevent fungal diseases on laurel trees. However, it has now (or will soon) be withdrawn from sale in the UK. There are currently no scientifically proven alternatives that are even remotely as effective as the Bordeaux blend

Various alternatives have been suggested, such as aspirin solution or milk, but none have been shown to be effective.

The fungus can also be controlled simply by reducing the number of affected leaves and buds. First remove all fallen leaves and branches around the trunk of the tree. If the area is flooded, try to provide good drainage to reduce humidity. Cut off affected branches with infected buds.

Bay leaves can occasionally be damaged by leafcutter bees, although they tend to seek out other plants first. The damage they do is similar to the wine beetle image earlier in this article. But leafcutter bees are neat and tidy bugs and the holes on the edges of the leaves are very rounded rather than ragged.

You should also watch the bees at work when they infest your bay tree. Our advice is to do nothing, the damage is usually minor and they are unlikely to return to the same place next year. If you spray chemicals to kill these bees, the spray will also kill other valuable garden insects.

COOKING AND BAY LEAVES

Bay leaves are usually sold in dried form in stores and supermarkets and retain most of their flavor for about six months. To preserve that flavor, store them in an airtight container in a cool, dark place.

Freshly picked bay leaves have a slightly stronger flavor and if you’ve grown them yourself you’ll know exactly what chemicals and preservatives were used in their cultivation – hopefully none. The taste and aroma, dried or fresh, form the background for many soup, meat and sauce recipes. In Europe, the main source is from Turkey and comes from the real laurel tree Laurus nobilis. In some other parts of the world the so-called Californian laurel tree is used, but that is actually not a laurel tree, but Umbellularia californica.

To dry bay leaves, cut off a few stalks from your plant and hang them with cotton in a warm, dry place. They will be dry in two to three weeks and can then be stored in an airtight jar or plastic bag to use when needed.

DO LAUREL HAVE FLOWERS?

We get asked this question a lot and the simple answer is yes. The picture below proves it beyond a doubt!

In our experience, flowers are produced in April/May, but only on mature specimens. Younger bay trees do not produce flowers. The flowers are very small, about the size of a five pence piece. We don’t remove them as they are unlikely to interfere with the growth of a mature bay tree.

Flowers on a standard laurel tree

Click image to enlarge

Another question we are asked is, are there male and female forms of laurel trees and if so, how do they differ? The answer is yes, there are masculine and feminine forms. The difference becomes apparent in the fall. Female forms produce berries (and they contain seeds), while male forms of laurel trees generally do not produce berries.

Bay leaves and wood chips as mulch?

Bay leaves and the wood are generally considered acidic, they also take a long time to compost well. For these reasons we would use them sparingly on a compost heap or as a mulch. They’re fine in small doses, but not as a main ingredient for compost or mulch.

Sometimes our readers ask specific questions that aren’t covered in the main article above. Our

Bay Tree Comments/Question and Answers Page

lists their comments, questions, and answers. At the bottom of this page there is also a form for you to submit new questions or comments.

BACK TO THE HERBS MAIN PAGE

In a previous column, I asked if any readers could explain why the grain in trees appears to spiral up the trunk—clockwise. That is, spiral tracks in mature trees break up around the trunk from top right to bottom left. Professor (now emeritus) Neil Davis, the originator of this column, asked the same question in this column over ten years ago, and it’s time for an update.

I have received numerous responses to the request and thank everyone who has responded. I want to repeat two of the better answers here. First, Anchorage’s David J. Friis added not only some solid arguments, but also a bit of whimsy. He said:

“When I was working for NOM’s Environmental Research Labs in Boulder, we were once asked why lightning sometimes spirals down the trunk of a tree. Although the answer was unproven, we observed that the path of least resistance could follow the spiral grain. I finally found a tree with a spiral lightning bolt and it followed the spiral grain exactly. A tree, of course, proves nothing.

“But why should the tree squirm? More speculation here: Foliage tends to be thicker on the south side of the tree due to better sunlight. The prevailing winds are from the west in most parts of the tree-covered northern hemisphere. Combine these factors, and the westerly winds pushing on the thicker south side of the tree year after year cause asymmetric wind loading that slowly rotates the tree in the observed direction.

“This reasoning is so obvious that there must be something wrong with it, otherwise it would be known to plant biologists. I can think of several ways to test this hypothesis. My favorite is examining trees in the Southern Hemisphere for reverse rotation. I have several countries in mind. Do you know where I can get a scholarship?”

(I should add here that I checked with retired University of Alaska professor Tunis Wentink, an expert on wind power, and John Lingaas of the National Weather Service in Fairbanks to find out the prevailing wind direction in interior Alaska. Both agreed, that this was extremely variable, but in winter most commonly from the north-northeast, with stronger winds from the south-west during the growing season in June and July.) .

I applaud the ingenuity of Mr. Friis, but he was surpassed by Hans Nielsen of the Geophysical Institute. Professor Nielsen was the first to introduce the clockwise spiral question in this column in 1976. Apparently he had time to consider the matter further.

Hans recently told me he thinks it could be related to the Coriolis effect of the Earth’s rotation. In the northern hemisphere, all moving objects are slightly deflected to the right. (This is why hurricanes rotate counterclockwise — air moving toward the storm is deflected to the right, giving the storm a counterclockwise spiral in the center.) Nielsen thinks the spike could potentially tend to when a Tree being shaken by winds rotate counterclockwise in circles when viewed from above. This would result in a clockwise spiral rotation. (That sounds like a contradiction until you think about it for a while.)

Granted, not all trees exhibit the same twist, but most do. The phenomenon can be compared to the claim that water in the northern hemisphere always spirals out of a drain in a counter-clockwise direction. It has been known that if you give it a little nudge first, you can spiral it either way. Local effects such as the topography of the landscape (or irregularities in the shell) play a much larger role than the very small Coriolis effect.

I found it intriguing that both Friis and Nielsen, while having wildly different propositions as to the cause, suggested that a good test would be to travel to the southern hemisphere to check the direction of the trees’ meanders there. In the southern hemisphere, the prevailing winds would be in the same direction at similar latitudes, but the Coriolis force would be to the left and the sun would be north rather than south. The observed direction of twisting in trees should therefore be clockwise around the trunk, resulting in a counterclockwise spiral of cracks (top left to bottom right). If all this makes you dizzy like I do, try rolling a roll of playdough or bread dough and you’ll see what I mean.

A final note: Barry Donnellan, an attorney for Fairbanks, notes that the term “spiral” as we use it here is incorrect. He points out that the preferred use of spiral is to describe a smooth curve, like a neatly coiled garden hose lying flat on the driveway. If you lift one end of the coiled tubing you would have the shape we are talking about which is a spiral. But, as he says, who talks about a “helical” staircase?

DIY weed killer: How to remove weeds with just two ingredients

How and when people prune their bay trees depends on the method they are raised with.

Laurel trees are potentially fragile, especially in the form of topiary.

While some require severe pruning, experts advise gardeners to exercise caution.

Any excess pruning can leave the plant without leaves for up to a year.

There’s something elegant and timeless about bay trees in pots—especially when they stand on either side of a doorway to frame them with year-round greenery. Here’s how to make bays look good in containers.

In the winter months, laurel trees in pots come into their own. Laurel (Laurus nobilis) is an evergreen plant that bears glossy leaves all year round. They’re a nice festive touch in the run up to Christmas when you can decorate them with fairy lights and maybe a red bow or two to welcome guests at your door.

However, as with all container grown plants, potted laurel trees depend entirely on you for the things they need to thrive: water and nutrients once those in the original compost are depleted. So make sure you keep doing well by following our guide.

What Type of Compost Should I Use for Bay Trees?

A soil-based compost is best, as it provides longer-lasting nutrients and a little extra weight that helps keep the pots stable. A bag of John Innes No 2 would be ideal. From late spring to the end of summer, when the laurels are growing, additional feed will keep the leaves green and the plants healthy. Squeeze a pellet of slow release fertilizer into the top of the compost every few weeks.

Do laurel trees need to be repotted in pots?

At some point the roots of your laurel tree will no longer have room in the container. As a general rule, expect to repot your laurel every two to three years. Instead of having to keep enlarging the pot, pull out a third of the roots and then transplant into the same container with fresh compost around the now smaller root ball. Also scrape off the compost at the top and replace with fresh. Finish this work in the spring when the bays begin to grow again.

Do I need to protect bay trees in cold weather?

Laurel trees need protection when the temperature drops below -5 °C. At this temperature, the container laurel root ball is vulnerable. Place your bay trees in a garage, porch, or other frost-free spot when the temperature is that low, or if you can’t move the pots, wrap them in a thick layer of snug bubble wrap. Frost and freezing wind can also damage the foliage. So if you can’t move the pots in harsh winter weather, have a couple of fleece “jackets” on hand to pull them over.

When is the best time to prune a bay tree?

In summer, prune laurel trees shaped into standard lollipops, spirals, or cones. Cut new growth back to a bud to keep the plant’s foliage in desired shape and encourage bushy, dense growth.

In early spring, you can also prune back any shoots or leaves that have been damaged by cold weather. And if you need a leaf or two for the kitchen, snip away year-round.

How often should I water a bay tree?

Well-drained soil is essential for a happy laurel tree, so make sure laurel trees in pots don’t have to endure waterlogging in winter when rain is likely to be more frequent. Raise your containers on pot feet to ensure the drainage hole in the bottom can drain freely. In summer, when rain is typically less reliable, they will likely need watering, but be careful as overwatering can also cause problems.

Are there laurel pests to watch out for?

When a bay tree’s leaves start turning yellow, the most likely cause is either soggy roots or a lack of nutrients, so address these issues.

If you notice that the bay leaves are sticky and/or black sooty mold is growing on the sticky deposits, check to see if any of the leaves are distorted and curled at the edges. These ruffled leaves usually hide laurel suckers, small gray insects that suck the laurel’s sap. Though unsightly, a small infestation doesn’t harm bay trees too much, so simply pick and discard the affected leaves.

Larger outbreaks can be controlled by pruning branches. Insecticides don’t have much effect as the insects are protected from the spray by their sophisticated covering of bay leaf. Also watch out for the other scourge of potted plants, wine beetles and scale insects, which cause similar symptoms to laurel suckers.

Don’t forget to sign up for our monthly The English Gardener newsletter for all the handy gardening tips you need all year round. Sign in to the right of this article.

Do you need plants or garden supplies? Visit our supplier directory.

You may also like…

Bay laurel is a slow grower and although a plant will eventually grow to a tree of up to 8m tall, it takes many years to achieve this and can be pruned to keep it at the desired size. Traditionally topiary and pruned, bay trees bring a touch of formality to the garden. Often sold as a standard lollipop tree, or in the shape of a cone, or with braided or spiral stems, Laurus nobilis can be used as an alternative to yew or box topiary – particularly useful as box is now infested with box caterpillars and box blight. Bay grows very well in pots and standard plants look particularly good on either side of a front door, creating a formal year-round display.

Bay laurel (Laurus nobilis), also known as laurel or laurel tree, is an evergreen shrub with aromatic leaves known as bay leaves. Laurus nobilis is one of the oldest cultivated shrubs, having been introduced to British gardens as early as 1650. A must-have foliage plant for herb gardens, bay leaves can be used in a variety of dishes, including soups and stews, and even ice cream. and are the main ingredient in a bouquet garni. They can be dried for storage or used fresh.

Laurel is a dioecious plant, meaning it has male and female flowers on separate plants. Male and female plants are not identified at garden centers since most gardeners only grow them for their foliage. The flowers are insignificant and the berries are inedible.

Bay laurel is sometimes confused with cherry laurel (Prunus laurocerasus) and Portuguese laurel (Prunus lusitanica). These evergreen shrubs are mostly used as a hedge and all parts of the plant are poisonous.

How to grow laurel (Laurus nobilis).

Bay is slightly tender when young and benefits from shelter and shelter in winter. Grow Laurus nobilis in fertile, well-drained soil in full sun, ideally near a south- or west-facing wall that offers extra protection from cold winds and frost. In cooler regions, consider growing in a pot to move indoors in the fall. Grow bay laurel in a sheltered spot in moist but well-drained soil. Prune in summer and prune back heavily to rejuvenate old plants in spring. Bay leaves can be harvested any time of the year – use immediately or dry before storage.

Growing Bay: jump links

Where to grow laurel

Native to the Mediterranean region, laurel does best in full sun to part shade, ideally in a sheltered spot as it is not entirely hardy when young. In exposed gardens, laurel tolerates temperatures down to around -5°C, but can suffer leaf damage. This is easily solved by covering plants with garden fleece in winter or moving potted plants to a more sheltered spot.

Bay tends to be more resilient when planted directly in the garden as plants are able to establish a more extensive root system. Well-drained soil is important. When planted in the ground and left to grow unpruned, the plants can reach a height of up to 8m.

How to plant laurel

Amend the garden soil before planting by digging in compost and sand if your soil is heavy. If you are planting pruned standard bays as a formal sign, make sure they are level before firming the soil around the root ball. Water well and keep watering regularly for a few weeks after planting to allow her to settle in well.

If growing in a pot, plant your laurel in tree and shrub compost, or in a soil-based compost such as John Innes #2 with a little extra sand for drainage. Be sure to use a pot with drainage holes in the bottom and add pots on the bottom; You could also put the pot on pot feet.

How to care for laurel (Laurus nobilis).

Laurus nobilis growing in the ground should get all the water they need from rainfall. If you’re growing bay leaves in pots, don’t let the compost dry out in the summer, but allow excess compost to drain, as too much water will rot the roots. Reduce watering in winter. Feed them a liquid food every few weeks during the spring and summer. Repot every two to three years if possible – if your plant is too big for this, scrape off the top layer of compost and replace with fresh ones.

Prune Bay in summer with secateurs. Old plants can be rejuvenated by severely pruning them back in late spring. It’s best to do this over two years, as laurels are slow to recover – cut back half of the stems in the first year and the rest in the second year. Bay trees are becoming increasingly popular as topiaries due to their resilience to regular pruning. Consider purchasing a topiary frame if you haven’t tried the technique yet, and prune it several times during the growing season for best results. Avoid using hedge trimmers when pruning or pruning the bay, as half-cut leaves look unsightly.

How to propagate laurel

The quickest way to propagate laurel is to take semi-mature cuttings in late summer. Bay laurel can also be propagated by spring layering, but this takes longer.

Growing bay: problem solving

Bay is fairly trouble free. If the leaves are damaged by frost or wind (causing them to turn brown or black), pick them off or prune the plants in late spring or summer to encourage new growth.

Yellow leaves can be a problem with bay trees. In our quick tips video, Emma Crawforth, BBC Gardeners’ World Magazine, explains why bay trees can develop yellow leaves and how to fix the problem.

Discolored, distorted foliage could be caused by bay leaf runners. The young, winged, sap-eating insects attack young bay leaves. Minor attacks can be combated by immediately removing all affected leaves.

Bay Laurel Buying Tips Large bay plants are an investment—especially ones that are pruned or shaped. They’re slow growers, so buy as big a plant as you can afford

A cheaper (and slower) option is to buy small plants that you can eventually trim to shape yourself

Check that the plant has healthy, dark green, glossy leaves and no signs of pests or diseases

You can find bay laurels at most garden centers, usually with other topiaries. Smaller plants are sold along with other herbs Where to Buy Bay Laurel Online at Thompson & Morgan

Van Meuwen

dobies

Garden Express

Laurel varieties to try

advertisement

‘Scarlet Curls’ Contorted Willow is beautiful outdoors and its branches look great in floral arrangements.

Some trees are just twisted – literally. Rather than growing in the usual linear pattern, their stems zigzag in a crazy fashion, with each segment bending in a different direction than the previous one. If you are in the lumber industry, this is not a desirable trait. On the other hand, if you’re looking for a garden specimen that has an attention-grabbing character, a crooked tree might be just the ticket. Here are some of the best trees of this type for North American gardens.

Crooked beech (Fagus sylvatica ‘Tortuosa’)

Crooked beeches are long-lived trees that add character to any landscape.

A 20-foot-tall dwarf tree that slowly develops into a gnarled, gesturing mass of twining branches looks like something that would adorn a haunted castle, or perhaps the front yard of a slightly insane wizard. Due to the random nature of their growth, each ‘Tortuosa’ is absolutely unique, with some individuals being dominated by downward curving, cascading growth and others twisting into horizontal knots. Its theatrically squirming silhouette qualifies it as a view-dominating specimen. Plants are particularly fascinating in winter, when their jagged structure is most clearly visible. The ‘Tortuosa Purpurea’ cultivar is similar to ‘Tortuosa’, only with maroon foliage.

Frosted Curly Willow looks gorgeous in winter. If you cut the stems, they will sprout indoors and take root in the vase.

The corkscrew branches of this 30-foot-tall tree snake upward, forming a dense oval crown. The lance-shaped leaves repeat the wavy pattern of the branches. As with most stunted deciduous trees, it is particularly noticeable in winter when its bare skeleton is on full display. Look for their offspring ‘Golden Curls’ and ‘Scarlet Curls’, known for the striking yellow chartreuse or coral coloring of their stems in the first year. These trees also tolerate being cut back to within a few feet of the ground each spring, a practice known as cane rash. Tangled dragonclaw willows form particularly twisted and colorful stems.

Dragon mulberry (Morus alba ‘Unryu’)

A traditional element of ikebana cut flower arrangements, the zigzagging gray stalks of this sparsely pollinating mulberry quickly develop into a rather unruly mushroom-shaped small tree. A growling tangle when left to its own devices, it can be strikingly painterly when skilfully trimmed. She also does well with coppice, which produces a bumper crop of stems suitable for cutting.

Varied Directions lives up to its name honestly. (Image by Topshelver)

The relatively fast-growing stalks of Varied Directions meander rather than zigzag, waving at whimsical irregular angles. Staked specimens of this deciduous conifer form a curving trunk and an irregular crown that varies significantly from plant to plant depending on the mood of its branches. Unbound plants sometimes behave like improvised ground covers, squirming horizontally while occasionally growing skyward. Specimens with an erect or grafted trunk develop into small trees; creeping specimens spread indefinitely.

Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’ has some of the loveliest curly branches of all. They look beautiful when cut and brought indoors. (Image by Jessie Keith)

Arguably the most famous twisted tree, this dwarf selection of European hazelnut slowly forms an 8- to 10-foot round specimen with randomly curled branches. Plants gradually acquire a weeping habit as they age. The ‘Red Dragon’ cultivar has purple leaves and slightly less curly branches, but is otherwise similar to ‘Contorta’.

Flying Dragon Hardy Orange (Poncirus trifoliata ‘Monstrosa’)

Even the sizable spines of ‘Monstrosa’ are bent and distorted. (Image by David J.Stang)

Take a Harry Lauder walking stick, give it flattened, green-colored handles heavily armed with hooked spikes, and you’d have something along those lines. A hardy member of the citrus family, ‘Monstrosa’ produces showy, fragrant white flowers in early spring that precede small, waxy, tripartite leaves. Small, yellow-skinned, sour-fleshed “oranges” ripen in autumn. Hardy Orange lives up to its name by wintering as far north as USDA Hardiness Zone 5b.

Whichever twisted tree you choose, give it a good start by planting it properly. Dig the planting hole as deep as the root ball (or shallower in heavy clay soil) and three times (or more) as wide. Backfill the hole with the unaltered soil, gently tamp down and spread a layer of Fafard® Premium Natural & Organic Compost over the planting area. Cover with 2 to 3 inches of bark mulch, water well, and water again as needed (once or twice a week). And let the twisting begin! (Click here for more tree planting tips.)

In a previous column, I asked if any readers could explain why the grain in trees appears to spiral up the trunk—clockwise. That is, spiral tracks in mature trees break up around the trunk from top right to bottom left. Professor (now emeritus) Neil Davis, the originator of this column, asked the same question in this column over ten years ago, and it’s time for an update.

I have received numerous responses to the request and thank everyone who has responded. I want to repeat two of the better answers here. First, Anchorage’s David J. Friis added not only some solid arguments, but also a bit of whimsy. He said:

“When I was working for NOM’s Environmental Research Labs in Boulder, we were once asked why lightning sometimes spirals down the trunk of a tree. Although the answer was unproven, we observed that the path of least resistance could follow the spiral grain. I finally found a tree with a spiral lightning bolt and it followed the spiral grain exactly. A tree, of course, proves nothing.

“But why should the tree squirm? More speculation here: Foliage tends to be thicker on the south side of the tree due to better sunlight. The prevailing winds are from the west in most parts of the tree-covered northern hemisphere. Combine these factors, and the westerly winds pushing on the thicker south side of the tree year after year cause asymmetric wind loading that slowly rotates the tree in the observed direction.

“This reasoning is so obvious that there must be something wrong with it, otherwise it would be known to plant biologists. I can think of several ways to test this hypothesis. My favorite is examining trees in the Southern Hemisphere for reverse rotation. I have several countries in mind. Do you know where I can get a scholarship?”

(I should add here that I checked with retired University of Alaska professor Tunis Wentink, an expert on wind power, and John Lingaas of the National Weather Service in Fairbanks to find out the prevailing wind direction in interior Alaska. Both agreed, that this was extremely variable, but in winter most commonly from the north-northeast, with stronger winds from the south-west during the growing season in June and July.) .

I applaud the ingenuity of Mr. Friis, but he was surpassed by Hans Nielsen of the Geophysical Institute. Professor Nielsen was the first to introduce the clockwise spiral question in this column in 1976. Apparently he had time to consider the matter further.

Hans recently told me he thinks it could be related to the Coriolis effect of the Earth’s rotation. In the northern hemisphere, all moving objects are slightly deflected to the right. (This is why hurricanes rotate counterclockwise — air moving toward the storm is deflected to the right, giving the storm a counterclockwise spiral in the center.) Nielsen thinks the spike could potentially tend to when a Tree being shaken by winds rotate counterclockwise in circles when viewed from above. This would result in a clockwise spiral rotation. (That sounds like a contradiction until you think about it for a while.)

Granted, not all trees exhibit the same twist, but most do. The phenomenon can be compared to the claim that water in the northern hemisphere always spirals out of a drain in a counter-clockwise direction. It has been known that if you give it a little nudge first, you can spiral it either way. Local effects such as the topography of the landscape (or irregularities in the shell) play a much larger role than the very small Coriolis effect.

I found it intriguing that both Friis and Nielsen, while having wildly different propositions as to the cause, suggested that a good test would be to travel to the southern hemisphere to check the direction of the trees’ meanders there. In the southern hemisphere, the prevailing winds would be in the same direction at similar latitudes, but the Coriolis force would be to the left and the sun would be north rather than south. The observed direction of twisting in trees should therefore be clockwise around the trunk, resulting in a counterclockwise spiral of cracks (top left to bottom right). If all this makes you dizzy like I do, try rolling a roll of playdough or bread dough and you’ll see what I mean.

A final note: Barry Donnellan, an attorney for Fairbanks, notes that the term “spiral” as we use it here is incorrect. He points out that the preferred use of spiral is to describe a smooth curve, like a neatly coiled garden hose lying flat on the driveway. If you lift one end of the coiled tubing you would have the shape we are talking about which is a spiral. But, as he says, who talks about a “helical” staircase?