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How much does it cost to restore a typewriter?
Refurbished typewriters that have gone through a cleaning and repairing process cost anywhere from $75 up to a several hundred dollars, but an unrefurbished antique typewriter that is not rare should not cost you anymore than $75, max.
Are old typewriters worth anything?
Typewriters that were made in the 1940s or earlier, especially those manufactured in the 19th century, may be worth some money if they’re still in working order. Non-working antique typewriters are typically worth about $50, but refurbished models can earn $800 or more.
How do you clean and restore an old typewriter?
The gentlest approach (recommended at first) is to wipe the typewriter with a wet rag, or a rag dipped in water with a few drops of dishwashing liquid. Brushes: you can try toothbrushes, nail brushes, brushes for cleaning firearms or dentures, and artist’s paintbrushes.
Does anyone buy old typewriters?
If you’re interested in getting money for your vintage typewriter, you might consider listing it alongside other models on websites like eBay or Etsy. If there’s a local antique store or pawn shop near you that’s seeking typewriters, that’s another option for you to cash in.
Basic Typewriter Restoration
Raise your hand if you have old typewriters gathering dust in your attic or basement. Hold it up if you also like easy ways to make money fast. If both phrases sound like you, you may have already hit the jackpot without realizing it.
Vintage typewriters are one of the best-kept secret ways to put some extra cash in your pocket. And when we say cash, we mean lots of cash. For example, Branford House Antiques reports that its Hooven Automatic Typewriter recently sold for $7,500. Previously, the shop’s Cash Typograph Typewriter sold in an auction for an impressive $25,000.
But the hefty sums these old typewriters raked in seem like child’s play compared to what is affectionately referred to as the “Rolls Royce of typewriters” – the Malling-Hansen writing ball. If you’re lucky enough to own one of these babies, you can sell them for a whopping $100,000, according to Senior Planet.
Vintage typewriters have had a fairly devoted following for decades. Even though our modern computers can do so much more than typewriters, many people just can’t seem to let go of the nostalgia factor. Interest only grew in the age of the internet. There’s even a Facebook group called Antique Typewriter Collectors with thousands of loyal fans.
It certainly doesn’t hurt that just last year, the popular documentary California Typewriter ($9.99, Amazon) wowed both typewriting experts and novices alike. After all, a typewriter enthusiast named Tom Hanks happened to be in this film. So who can blame collectors for looking forward to buying now?
If you’re interested in getting money for your vintage typewriter, you might consider listing it alongside other models on sites like eBay or Etsy. If there is an antique store or pawn shop in your area looking for typewriters, this is another option for you to make money.
Just talk to an experienced buyer before attempting to sell your vintage typewriter for a few grand. Collectors aren’t going to spend the dollars on just any old piece. If you’re unsure if your typewriter is worth anything, it never hurts to take a look at a typewriter collector’s wish list, like this one from collector Tony Castillo. Tip: According to Collectors Weekly, if you own an early model from the late 19th century, you have the best chance of selling it to a top collector and making the most money.
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Does anyone still make typewriters?
All the manufacturers of office typewriters stopped production, except us. ‘Till 2009, we used to produce 10,000 to 12,000 machines a year. But this might be the last chance for typewriter lovers. Now, our primary market is among the defence agencies, courts and government offices.”
Basic Typewriter Restoration
Because I have a mom who loves to collect antiques — and lugs her kids to the nearest flea market — I’ve seen hundreds of typewriters. (The Smith-Corona Galaxie DeLuxe, made famous by Cameron Crowe’s Almost Famous among members of my generation, will always be a favorite.) It never occurred to me that I might not be able to find one , when the desire comes. Sure, there’s thousands gathering dust on thrift store shelves from here to Texarkana, but that’s about to change. Now that Godrej and Boyce, the last company in the world still making the devices, has closed its doors, there will be no new ones to replace typewriters if they end up in landfills.
What is the value of an old Underwood typewriter?
Underwood Typewriter Value
Early Underwood models can sell for more than $1,000, with examples from the 1920s bringing up to $500 and 1930s, $300-400.
Basic Typewriter Restoration
Vintage Typewriter Brands In addition to those listed below, there were numerous other typewriter manufacturers in the United States and around the world, with some companies producing more than a million typewriters in their heyday. Though there are rarities hidden in attics, expect interesting, attractive, and sometimes working machines for $100 and under.
A Guide to Pricing a Vintage Typewriter According to author and typewriter expert Richard Polt, many of the typewriters you will encounter come from several well-known brands. Basic price ranges are based on eBay auction searches along with WorthPoint and Kovels guides.
Underwood Typewriter Value Underwood (1897) was first manufactured by the Wagner Typewriter Company and later purchased by John Underwood. Early Underwood models can sell for more than $1,000, with examples from the 1920s fetching up to $500 and 1930s fetching $300 to $400. The Underwood No. 5 Typewriter lists typewriter serial numbers and production information. Later examples sell for US$50-75 as shown in online auctions such as eBay. Underwood No. 5 Typewriter
First Remington Typewriter Remington (launched 1873 with Model 1) started out as E. Remington & Sons (the company also made guns). According to The Typewriter Database, the first Remington model was named “No. 1 Old Style” in company records and originally sold for $47.50. No lowercase letters were used.
Remington Brand Typewriter Value The first Remington portable typewriters appeared around 1920. By 1930, the Remington Standard #10 was modeled so you could see the paper while you typed (known as a “visual typewriter”). In July 2014, a Remington #1 in rough condition was auctioned on eBay for nearly $27,000. But later Remingtons, including the Standard #10, can be found online for $150 and under in good working condition. Remington No. 1 typewriter
Oliver Typewriter Company Oliver typewriters were manufactured in Chicago, IL from 1895. The company was best known as the first manufacturer of practical visual typewriters. The machines were “downstrikers” where the typebars (the arms holding the letter or symbol) hit the paper from above. Most modern typewriters are front-loaders; the upstrokes were arms hitting the paper from below. Oliver typewriters from the earliest times cost up to $125 for specimens in good condition. Vintage Olivers can be found for $75 and under. Oliver No. 3 Typewriter
Corona Typewriter Corona (1903 when Smith of Smith Corona opened) produced many different types of typewriters. As with Remington, Smith’s manufacturing arm produced Corona guns. Some of their earliest typewriters were elaborate assemblies of metal arms and a circular type section; These have been sold for $150 and under. When the Corona 3 typewriter was made, it was popular because it could be folded to a smaller size for easier transport, and working examples can sell for $100 and under. Also, keep an eye out for children’s typewriters made by this company and expect to pay $100 or more for a copy in excellent condition. Corona typewriter
Royal Typewriter Company The Royal Typewriter Company was based in New York City and Hartford, CT, from 1904. Royal Typewriters were robust, easy-to-use, non-stalling machines and were among the first to be touted by writers and journalists.
Royal Typewriter Value So many Royals have been produced that even the earliest examples sell for $100 or less. The Fleetwood had a Danish modern touch. Look out for the Royal Astronaut, a colorful plastic-bodied typewriter meant to evoke the new world of space exploration in the 1960s, an example that will cost you around $50. 1932 Royal Portable Typewriter
Woodstock Typewriter Company Based in Chicago, IL, the Woodstock Typewriter Company was known for their well-made machines. The company used an unusual marketing ploy: everyone who bought a Woodstock machine had to give a testimonial, and the awards were then printed on future brochures. The Woodstock Company was successful: even today, vintage examples sell for $50 or less. Woodstock typewriter
Factors Determining Potential Value There are hundreds of different old and antique (100 years or older) typewriters on the market, in conditions ranging from almost new to “why are the keys missing?”. Unlike other antiques and collectibles, determining the value of a typewriter is difficult: as collector and typewriter expert Tony Casillo notes, there are no large marketplaces just for vintage typewriters and office machines, although some dealers do offer deals, like this one for the Sholes -Kortsch -Collection.
Stable Vintage Typewriter Values In recent years, typewriter values have remained below $400 for many models, as evidenced by price leaders such as WorthPoint and Kovels, and as noted by typewriter collectors such as Mark Adams. Typewriters were found in almost every home and business by the 1920s, and the machines were expensive in their day, making some of them a bargain for modern buyers looking to connect with the technology of the past.
Strangeness Strange doesn’t always mean rare. Some examples, like the Oliver, look odd, with wing-like groupings of type arms on either side of the machine. But more than a million machines were made with retail prices under $400 for the early Model #5, as listed in Worthpoint.
Repairs Old and antique typewriters can be repaired, and unlike other antiques, new parts, repairs, and even touch-ups don’t bother typewriter collectors. While a typewriter can look rusty, dusty, and broken, it can be valuable to a collector simply because they can fix it, and the price tag can be higher than the condition of the machine might suggest.
Design Features Because there were so many different typewriter manufacturers and typewriter models, collectors will come across early examples with oddly shaped (or organized) keyboards, brass-plated cases, or even fancy inlays. The value of these models is generally higher than the more basic versions, such as the Blickensderfer model #7, which sold on eBay in 2013 for $1,500. Earlier models fetch higher prices, but again how much higher depends on who wants the machine at the time.
Tips for collectors People collect typewriters for many reasons: history, nostalgia, professional skills. Collectors look for machines that are in good, working condition, while the more adventurous don’t mind acquiring machines that need repairing. If you’re looking to buy a vintage typewriter, remember: decals should be in good condition and legible.
Look for widespread rust that is difficult to remove completely, leaving pitted surfaces or weakened parts.
Mechanical parts should be present and original. Other typewriters have been overhauled in the past, so the repair may be almost as old as the machine.
The coating should be original and free of scars.
All machine parts should work: the roller should move, the keys should click, the return arm should work and of course the bell should ring.
Basic Old Typewriter Repairs and Cleaning You can do many basic old typewriter repairs, including cleaning, lubricating, and replacing minor parts (screws). At Basic Typewriter Restoration you will find many suggestions from Richard Plot and his friends.
Additional Resources Typewriter collectors are a passionate bunch who share their love of keys through excellent websites and books. Don’t miss out on these resources that will tempt you to bid on the next Royal Loyal that comes your way: if you don’t know what you have, or want to know more, a visit to The Typewriter Database is a must a first point of contact. This amazing resource contains company histories, serial numbers, and other information for typewriters, both rare and common.
The Typewriter Museum lists more than 125 typewriters, with photos, hyperlinks and descriptions from Adler to Xerox.
The Classic Typewriter Page contains an extensive collection of articles about early typewriters, along with photos and details of each machine.
Machines of Loving Grace offers online manuals for collectibles and rare typewriters, as well as amazing photos of royal machines.
Two invaluable books for collectors were written by Michael Adler: Antique Typewriters, From Creed to QWERTY, which includes a price guide, and The Writing Machine, which is out of print but can be found on used book sites.
Actor Tom Hanks is an avid typewriter collector, and Collectors Weekly’s article about his hobby and how other collectors view it is worth reading.
Should you oil a typewriter?
You will easily notice that your typewriters operate more easily and quieter with Liquid Bearings, especially if you have been using petroleum-based oil on them for years.
Basic Typewriter Restoration
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How much is a Corona typewriter worth?
The Corona No. 3 model whose image appears in this section was produced in 1917. Online, this vintage typewriter has a price of $403.96. The vintage typewriter features its original case, is in nice condition, and works.
Basic Typewriter Restoration
In this in-depth guide, we take a deeper look at the interesting history of the Smith Corona typewriter. In addition, we show you the different models of typewriter and the price you can expect when buying vintage Smith Corona typewriters.
The Story of the Old Smith Corona Typewriter
Smith-Corona has a very long history, dating back to 1886. The story spans two distinct companies – the Corona Typewriter Company and the L.C. Smith & Bros Corporation – which merged into Smith-Corona Manufacturing Company.
In this section, we take a deeper look at the evolution of the Smith-Corona typewriter, from the earliest twin-case mechanical typewriters to personal word processors.
1886: The Smith Brothers form the Smith Premier Typewriter-Making Company
Before making typewriters, the Smith brothers were involved in making firearms. However, after noticing similarities between manufacturing techniques and mechanical processes in the firearms factory and those in the relatively new typewriter industry, Alexander T. Brown, a Smith brothers associate, approached company management with his design for a mechanical typewriter.
In 1886, Monroe C. Smith, HW Smith, Wilbert Smith, and LC Smith formed the Smith Premier Typewriter-Making Company to manufacture Alexander T. Brown’s design of a two-case typewriter.
1890: Smith Premier 1 typewriter
About 4 years after its inception, the Smith Premier Typewriter-Making Company produced its first typewriter. The company produced typewriters designed by Alexander T. Brown between 1890 and 1907.
1907: The LC Smith & Bros Model No. 2 typewriter
The Smith Premier Typewriter-Making Company changed its name to L.C. in 1903. Smith & Bros Corporation. The first typewriter the company made under its new name was released in 1907.
The typewriter was called L.C. Smith & Bros Model No. 2. 12 months later, however, the company produced Model No. 1.
1907: The Standard Typewriter Company began manufacturing a folding typewriter
The Standard Typewriter Company – which later became the Corona Typewriter Company – began manufacturing a folding typewriter in 1907. The company’s goal was to improve the portability of typewriters.
1910: LC Smith dies
One of the Smith brothers – L.C. Smith—died 1910. L.C. Smith left the typewriter business to his three brothers – Monroe C. Smith, HW Smith and Wilbert Smith.
1914: Smith Tower construction
Four years after their brother’s death, the three remaining brothers initiated the construction of the Smith Tower.
1914: The Standard Typewriter Company becomes the Corona Typewriter Company
Following the success of their Corona typewriter model, the Standard Typewriter Company was rebranded, dropping its previous name to become the Corona Typewriter Company. The company improved its portable typewriters until its merger with L.C. Smith & Bros Corporation.
1926: LC Smith & Bros Typewriter Company and Corona Typewriter Company merged
In the mid-1920s, L.C. Smith & Bros Typewriter Company decided to merge with Corona Typewriter Company to form Smith-Corona Company. The combination of durable L.C. Smith office typewriters with Corona’s popular and portable typewriters made the new company a leader in the typewriter industry.
Because they were portable and durable, Smith-Corona typewriters were in high demand. This helped the company remain profitable during the Great Depression.
1942: Smith-Corona offers aid in World War II
When World War II began in 1942, Smith-Corona helped by manufacturing bomb detonators, portable cipher machines, ammunition and bolt-action rifles. During this period, the company continued to produce typewriters.
1957: Smith-Corona develops its first electric typewriter
After World War II, Smith-Corona decided to focus on electric typewriters. Finally, in 1957, the company produced its first electric typewriter.
1973: Smith-Corona produces the Coronamatic Cartridge
This invention made changing the ribbon extremely easy. It allowed its users to make ribbon changes without having to touch the new ribbon. By helping users avoid touching the ribbons that came with ink, the new invention made using typewriters less messy.
1982: Smith-Corona produces the Ultrasonic Office and Typetronic II
These typewriters were “sound driven”. Smith-Corona used sound waves and eliminated numerous mechanical parts that were present in previous versions. This made his machines less bulky.
The 1980s: Smith-Corona leads the personal word processor market
Smith-Corona is considered a leader in word processing. The company developed several word processing technologies that were implemented in computers (PCs).
Unfortunately for the company, the PC revolution destroyed the typewriter market. As the market collapsed between the 1980s and 2000s, Smith-Corona began looking for new ways to generate revenue. Today, the company uses its printing knowledge in the label marking industry.
Popular Smith-Corona typewriter models
1. Smith Premier models
This antique typewriter was first manufactured in 1890 and designed by Alexander T. Brown.
The Smith Premier 1 featured an attractive relief of flowers, cattails and pillars molded into its sides. The inside of the typewriter was equally impressive. Rather than using levers found on earlier typewriters, Alexander Brown designed the Smith Premier 1 with rods and cranks that were extremely easy to adjust for maximum control.
A second Smith Premier model appeared in 1895. However, this model did not have ornate sides like the Smith Premier 1.
The Smith Premier 3 was manufactured in 1901 and had 84 keys. The 2 earlier models – Smith Premier 1 & 2 – had 76 keys. The Smith Premier models were built in a total of 13 languages, with different typewriters being equipped with special keyboard layouts and characters.
One of the distinctive features of the Smith Premium model was the round brush that sat under the grounds basket. This brush could be screwed up with a crank, allowing the machine user to brush clogged ink and lint from the writing.
2. L.C. Smith Bros typewriter model
In 1903, after the Smith Premier model had already been successful, the Smith Brothers traded in L.C. Typewriter Smith & Bros. Their goal was to create a typewriter that would allow the user to see what he/she was typing.
The LC, the brothers bought a ball bearing patent from a company that made prosthetic legs. From 1907 all of the company’s machines were equipped with ball bearings.
Ancient L.C. Smith Bros Typewriter Model No. 2 was made in 1907. About a year later, the company produced the L.C. Smith Bros Typewriter Model No. 1.
3. Corona Typewriter Model
First manufactured by the Corona Typewriter Company in the 1910s, the Corona typewriter remained popular until about 1941. This typewriter model featured a carriage and platen that could be folded down and rested on the keyboard – making it more compact and portable.
Compared to the Smith Premier and then L.C. Smith Bros Models, the Corona typewriter was also lighter. This further increased its portability.
The Corona typewriter became extremely successful in 1914. As Corona Typewriter Company and L.C. Smith & Bros Corporation merged, the Corona Type 3 was still one of the most produced models.
4. Smith Corona portable models
The first Smith-Corona typewriter was made in the mid-1920s when the L.C. Smith & Bros Typewriter Corporation merged with Corona Typewriter Company. In contrast to the previous models from L.C. Smith & Bros Typewriter Corporation, the new model was compact and light enough to carry.
5. The 5 model
Manufactured between 1950 and 1962, the Smith-Corona 5 Series model managed to win a large number of awards from users. The antique Smith-Corona typewriter has been described as user-friendly, with some users considering it one of the best typewriters of all time.
The 5 Series was available in several models including the Clipper (entry level) and the Silent-Super (this was considered top-of-the-line). The 5 Series model was available in 5 standard colors – Seafoam Green, Coral Pink, Alpin Blue, Sapphire Gray and Desert Sand.
6. Smith-Corona PWP 1400 model
As mentioned, Smith-Corona was a front runner in word processing. The company’s PWP 1400 model could do word processing. This model was first produced in the 1980s and competed with other brands such as Adler, Olivetti, Brother, IBM and Olympia.
Features included in the PWP 1400 included a spell check dictionary, line and word eraser, integrated power cord storage, integrated LCD, carrying handle and AutoSpell.
How Much Should You Expect to Pay for Vintage Smith Corona Typewriters?
1. Smith Premier No. 4
The earliest vintage Smith Premier typewriter commercially available is the Model #4. Online, this vintage typewriter is priced at $299.99.
According to the seller, the vintage typewriter has a lot of dirt and signs of wear. The typewriter doesn’t work. However, the seller reports that it can be repaired, used for display, and disassembled for parts.
2. Smith Premier No. 10
This is one of the most expensive vintage Smith Corona typewriters we’ve found online. To get this vintage typewriter model you have to pay $995. However, the typewriter comes with its original metal cover.
The vintage typewriter dates back to 1907 and is made of steel. The seller notes that some of its buttons are slightly bent. However, the vintage typewriter is not working – but buyers can use it for parts.
3. Model Corona No. 3
Depending on when the Corona #3 model was made and what condition it is in, the cost ranges from $140 to $800.
The Corona #3 model, the image of which appears in this section, was manufactured in 1917. Online, this vintage typewriter costs $403.96. The vintage typewriter has its original case, is in nice condition and works.
4. Smith Corona Super Speed
After L.C. Smith Bros and Corona Typewriter Companies merged, Super-Speed was one of the very first typewriter models they produced. The model whose image appears in this section was manufactured in the 1930s. The vintage typewriter sells online for $279.30.
According to the seller, the back of the typewriter is broken. However, this does not affect the functionality of the typewriter. The typewriter is functional.
5. Smith Corona Super Silent
The super-quiet Smith Corona typewriter is one of the 5 Series models and dates from the 1950s to 1960s. The vintage typewriter pictured here was made in 1958 and retails for $279.
The seller notes that the typewriter is in working condition and comes in the original case. The old Smith Corona typewriter has no stuck keys.
6. Smith-Corona Personal Word Processor
The Smith-Corona PWP typewriters seem to be in high demand. Most of the PWP typewriters we found online were already sold out.
However, we still found the Smith-Corona PWP 1200 on sale. The old Smith Corona typewriter (pictured) sold for $129.99. According to the seller, this vintage typewriter is in good condition both functionally and cosmetically.
Conclusion
Although vintage Smith-Corona typewriters were first produced in 1926, the companies behind the typewriters have been around for over a century. By combining durability and portability, the Smith-Corona Typewriter Company was able to produce typewriters that attracted customers even during the Great Depression.
Adapting to new trends, Smith-Corona manufactured electric typewriters and became one of the pioneer companies in the word processing industry. Unfortunately, the company lost its market to personal computers. This prompted the company to start producing thermal labels.
This guide will show you everything you need to know about the Smith Corona typewriters. From the company’s history and typewriter models to the cost of vintage models available today, the guide answers the top questions frequently asked by new collectors. If you feel you need more information, be sure to let us know in the comments section.
What is the best brand of typewriter?
Also, brands’ reputation is a key consideration. The main typewriter brands are as follows: Royal, Nakajima, We R Memory Keepers, Brother, Astrohaus. Considering the print width, keyboard type, printing mode, and much more features, we think that Royal Typewriter is the best choice for most writers.
Basic Typewriter Restoration
The material of the typewriter should be both light and strong so that you can easily take it with you wherever you go. Brand reputation is also an important consideration. The most important brands of typewriters are: Royal, Nakajima, We R Memory Keepers, Brother, Astrohaus.
Considering the print width, keyboard type, print mode and many more features, we think Royal Typewriter is the best choice for most writers.
How do I know what year my typewriter is?
The Typewriter Database is a wonderful resource when trying to date your typewriter. Simply go to the website at http://typewriterdatabase.com to get started. Select your typewriter’s Brand from the drop down menu. A new page will open that will feature the most recently edited typewriter galleries.
Basic Typewriter Restoration
That’s a common question I get a lot on social media or via email. Many of us have typewriters that were given to us by a relative, or ones that we buy from a typewriter store or perhaps an antique store. It’s natural to want to know something about the history of whatever typewriter(s) we own. Let me give you a resource to help you find out how old your machine is.
The Typewriter Database
The Typewriter Database is a wonderful resource when trying to date your typewriter. Just go to the website at http://typewriterdatabase.com to get started. Select your typewriter brand from the drop down menu.
A new page will open with the recently edited typewriter galleries. Next, and this is important, scroll down the page. Once you’ve done that, you’ll see the typewriter information.
Typewriter information is categorized into Standard Machinery, Electrical, and Portable. Find out which category you need and find the serial number range that your machine falls into. Once you know the serial number range, it’s easy to reliably date your typewriter (if the information is available).
Unfortunately, not all typewriter information is available. Some brands are more difficult to date than others.
Also, if you want to support the Typewriter Database, profile and add your machines (with photos, type samples, etc.) for others to see and enjoy, and document that information for posterity. (I need to find some time and take my own advice!)
I hope this is helpful. I will share some other resources in a future post.
What are the most collectible typewriters?
- Enigma Machine – $65,000 to $480,000.
- Malling-Hansen Writing Ball – $80,000. (Credit: antiquestradegazette.com) …
- Sholes And Glidden Typewriter – $33,553. …
- Edison Mimeograph Typewriter – $14,000.
- North London Typewriter – $8,738. …
- Oliver No #1 1st Model – $7,440. …
- Williams No #1 – $6,340. …
- Crandall New Model – $6,100.
Basic Typewriter Restoration
Despite catering to a niche audience, antique typewriters have become rare collector’s items that come with a lot of history and legacy. And these are the most expensive typewriters:
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10. Moya Visible #2 – $3,690
(Source: antiqueychop.com)
The Moya Visible No 2 was released in 1905 by the Moya Typewriter company. The company produced three models between 1902 and 1908, few of which were sold at the time. The rest were rebranded to names like Baka, Ideal and Skretar for foreign markets.
The estimated price for this typewriter is now $3,690.
9. Granville Automatic Typewriter – $3,695
(Image credit: antiquetypewriters.com)
This typewriter was manufactured by the Granville Manufacturing Company based in Dayton, Ohio. It was brought onto the market in 1896. What is unique about this typewriter is that it has automatic features such as carriage return, line spacing and switching to capital letters. This was all done via dedicated buttons that were pretty revolutionary for their time.
It now costs around $3,695.
8. Crandall New Model – $6,100
Manufactured by the Crandall Machine Company of Syracuse, New York. This typewriter is a beautifully decorated machine. It had a mother of pearl inlay in its floral designs. It was released in 1886 and was a popular model at the time.
It will cost you around $6,100 now.
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7. Williams #1 – $6,340
(Image credit: collectsweekly.com)
The Williams #1 was manufactured by the Williams Typewriter company based in Brooklyn, New York. But the story behind the #1 is that the owner of the Williams company, typewriter J.N Williams, didn’t have his own factory back then. So he had this typewriter made by other companies. It was published in 1891.
Now you can get it from a collector for $6,340.
6. Oliver #1 1st Model – $7,440
(Image credit: Oliver)
The Oliver No #1 is considered one of the first visibly printed typewriters of its time. Visible print means the typewriter can see the text as it is being typed. It was made by the Oliver Typewriting Company in Chicago, Illinois. The first model was released in 1896.
As a collector’s item, it now retails for $7,440.
5. North London Typewriter – $8,738
(Image credit: antiquetypewriters.com)
Manufactured by North Typewriter Manufacturing Company based in London, England. This typewriter featured a rear downstrike mechanism system. Due to the awkward placement of the rolled paper and ribbon, this antique typewriter had little commercial success and is therefore relatively rare. It was published in 1892.
You can get this now for $8,738.
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4. Edison Mimeograph Typewriter – $14,000
This antique typewriter was designed by Thomas Edison himself. It was published in 1894 and licensed for distribution by the Albert Blake Dick Company. The main feature of this typewriter was its paper stencils. Commercially, this typewriter was not a great success story.
You can own this piece of history for a whopping $14,000.
3. Sholes And Glidden Typewriter – $33,553
(Image credit: antiquetypewriters.com)
The Sholes and Glidden Typewriter was published in 1873 and was the first commercially successful iteration ever made. It was manufactured by E. Remington and Sons and was based on sewing machines of the time, which featured a foot pedal to drive the mechanisms.
It is to this typewriter that we owe things like a four-row QWERTY design and the cylindrical writing plate.
You can get it as a collectible for $33,553.
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2. Malling Hansen Writing Ball – $80,000
(Image credit: antiquestradegazette.com)
This wild looking mechanical contraption is also a typewriter. It was designed in 1867 and patented in 1870.
At the time, Malling Hansen’s writing ball was a technological marvel and 50 years ahead of its time. The unique functionality of this typewriter makes it a coveted collector’s item today.
The estimated price for it is about 80,000 US dollars.
1. Enigma Machine – $65,000 to $480,000
The infamous Enigma machine was designed by Arthur Scherbius sometime towards the end of World War I in 1918. The earlier models were available in the 1920s. But the basic model was used to protect sensitive communications for military and diplomatic purposes. Germany used these Enigma machines with additional modifications to alter output and encrypt their communications.
The Enigma machine isn’t a regular typewriter, but it’s based on a keyboard system, so it makes this list. An Enigma machine has a lot of notoriety but is a piece of history that can fetch a very high price at auction.
Based on the model and condition, it is expected to be worth between $65,000 and $480,000.
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How much was a typewriter in the 1960s?
| Price ($) | Effective Date |
|---|---|
| 395 | July 31, 1961 |
| 435 | Jan. 2, 1962 |
| 450 | Oct. 5, 1964 |
| 460 | March 1, 1968 |
Basic Typewriter Restoration
Standard Models Model Price ($) Effective Date Black
(12 inch wagon) 200 January 2, 1934 225 March 1, 1934 250 April 13, 1934 225 June 6, 1934 250 May 19, 1946 290 November 18, 1946 A
(12 inch wagon) 335 22 Oct 1948 365 1 Sep 1950 347 19 Dec 1951 375 16 Mar 1953 B
(12 inch wagon) 395 March 1, 1954 420 February 1, 1957 C
(13″ wagon) 445 12 Jan 1959 460 2 Jan 1962 470 5 Oct 1964 D
(Paper capacity 12.5 inches) 490 April 17, 1967 510 May 1, 1969 D Braille
(12.5 inch paper capacity only) 490 January 30, 1968
Executive Models Model Carbon Ribbon Price ($) Fabric Ribbon Price ($) Effective Date Black
(12″ wagon) 450 1940 495 19 May 1946 550 19 Nov 1946 A
(12″ wagon) 550 520 22 Oct 1948 550 520 1 Sept 1950 550 520 19 Dec 1951 550 520 16 Mar 1953 B
(12″ wagon) 575 575 1 Mar 1954 595 595 1 Feb 1957 C
(13″ wagon) 625 625 12 Jan 1959 645 645 2 Jan 1962 660 660 5 Oct 1964 D
(12.5″ sled) 685 685 April 17, 1967 705 705 May 1, 1969
How much did a typewriter cost?
Full keyboard typewriters were very expensive, costing between $60 and $100 (a clerk’s wage was $5 a week, with a horse drawn carriage costing between $40 & $70. ). With few second-hand machines to be had, a less expensive machine was needed.
Basic Typewriter Restoration
Collecting antique typewriters from around 1900 has been a wonderful experience for me over the years. My collection is really just the tip of the iceberg as literally hundreds of different collectible typewriters have been made. There are so many more interesting models that my search will never end. For a collector, however, this is tantalizingly good news!
I also love restoring these typewriters. I’ve spent hundreds of hours working on a single machine, disassembling every part to remove dirt, old oil and rust. It takes a lot of patience, but the pleasure of exploring the mechanics of a hundred-year-old typewriter and the end result – a beautiful, smoothly running artifact – is well worth it.
I started collecting typewriters in 1989 when I spotted a very dusty and intriguing item high up on a shelf in a cluttered junk shop. It turned out to be an early 1880’s Caligraph typewriter. I also collect decorated typewriter ribbon boxes, mechanical devices, advertisements and letterhead from this period.
The following brief history of early typewriters focuses on the remarkable typewriters of the 1880s and 1890s, when typewriters first appeared in the modern era and changed the world.
Part of the magic of these early typewriters is that they are so far away and yet so close. There is a remarkable collective experience we all have in relation to typing, and an incredible nostalgia for the typewriter, with an intellectual and emotional investment in it as a symbol of writing.
Relevant to almost everyone, these early typewriters make an immediate connection when referring to the typewriter, its keyboard, and the impact that tool had on one’s life. These typewriters bring back all sorts of memories from people who typed as a child or adult to people who have never seen or used a typewriter but type on a computer keyboard.
The first typewriters
The keyboard is an essential communication tool and is used by more people than ever before. Keyboards are arguably one of the most important tools in the world, a tool that represents our personal communication in this technological age. The keyboard truly connects the planet. But what did the first keyboards and typewriters look like and how did they develop?
Typewriters from the 1930s and 40s all look pretty much the same, they “look like a typewriter”. Featuring four rows of straight keys, single shift and front strike visible (type bars meet the front of the reel so you can see what was just typed).
Typewriters didn’t always look like this, however. Imagine you, who have never seen a typewriter, were asked to design one. What could it look like? In fact, the big, black, standard machines you may be familiar with, like Underwood and Remington, were the result of many years of mechanical evolution.
In those early years of discovery, ingenuity, and error, over four hundred different typewriters were made to print the written word. These included machines with curved keyboards, double keyboards, or no keyboards at all!
The first typewriter patent was granted to an English engineer, Henry Mill, in 1714. He outlined the concept of the typewriter when he applied for a patent for “an artificial machine for impressing letters one at a time, as in writing, all writings being able to be deepened on paper or parchment so neatly and accurately that it cannot be defaced from the print.” is different.” However, this machine was never made.
Many experimental typewriters were built and used during the first 75 years of the 19th century, but none were mass-produced. However, this was soon to change as mass production technology arrived and the need for fast, accurate business communications grew. What was needed was one person to bring together all the successful elements developed so far.
The Sholes & Glidden machine
That person was Christopher Sholes, an American printer living in Milwaukee. After a shaky start with a series of experimental prototype machines, Sholes was advised by his financier (Glidden) to have his typewriter manufactured by E. Remington & Sons. This was wise advice, as the Remington factory was well equipped to mass-produce complex machinery and had already established production facilities for making guns and later sewing machines. With the American Civil War ending and the need for weapons receding, Remington was eager for new business and accepted the challenge.
In 1874, a thousand Sholes & Glidden typewriters left the Remington factory. This typewriter was a beautiful object, all in black and covered with hand-painted floral decorations. A cast-iron kick operated the carriage return. The influence of the sewing machine on their design was clear. To see what was being typed, the sled had to be lifted and looked under the roller, as the typebars hit the underside.
Sholes and Glidden’s machine was also the first appearance of the “Qwerty” keyboard. The purpose of this layout was to avoid having the typebars collide with each other when typing by separating the typebars of letters that are often typed in sequence (t & h) and letters that are used frequently. Attempts were made to introduce more sensible layouts as typewriter design evolved, but it was too late, people had already learned a way and understandably didn’t want to learn again.
The start was slow for the typewriter. It did not enter the world stage until 1881 with the next typewriter, the Caligraph. But everything changed over the next twenty years, when the industrial world realized that the typewriter was indispensable.
In search of standardization
There was nowhere near a single inventor of the typewriter. Hundreds of companies and individuals began designing and building typewriters. The inventors, needing to avoid patent infringement and pursuing their own vision of a better typewriter, created many ingenious mechanisms to put the printed word on paper. There was little if any obvious design progression for these first typewriters.
A variety of machines were invented, from which the most efficient combinations of mechanisms were gradually selected. Some too advanced mechanisms disappeared until a later date. Each mechanism solved a specific problem, but not always in the best way. There were notable successes and failures!
Full-keyboard typewriters were very expensive, ranging from $60 to $100 (employee wages were $5 a week, and a horse-drawn carriage was $40 to $70). Since only a few used machines were available, a less expensive machine was needed. Thus the “index machine” was born. This typewriter had no keyboard. Instead, a dial or knob was turned to select the character to be printed. Typing was slow, but costs ranged from $5 to $30 per machine. The index engine was popular for small businesses and home use. Many varieties were produced. When used machines became available around 1900 and touch typing was discovered, the market for index typewriters disappeared.
By 1896 many components, combinations and designs had been tried and the winner emerged. A typewriter with the right combination of successful components, a typewriter that would herald the new century, conquer the world and put an end to this varied epoch of typewriter history. The Underwood had arrived.
Images in this article appear in the following order:
(All images courtesy of Martin Howard of antiquetypewriters.com)
1. Wilson’s Silk Spun Ribbon Tin
2. Example of a typewriter from the 1930s and 1940s
3. Victor 1889. Boston. The world’s first “Daisy Wheel” typewriter.
4. Writing ball by Malling Hansen. Denmark 1878.
5. Sholes & Gliddon Typewriter
6. Hammond New York 1881
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What is a Royal typewriter worth?
Generally portables from the 1920s-1940s are worth between $500-$800 and portables from the 1950s-1970s are worth anywhere between $200-$600. For instance, a green Model P is listed from an online typewriter seller for about $550, and Sotheby’s has a 1930s portable listed for $600.
Basic Typewriter Restoration
History of the Royal Typewriter Company Thomas Fortunes Ryan and Edward B. Hess founded the Royal Typewriter Company in New York City in 1906 and eventually moved their manufacturing base to Connecticut. The first Royal Machines were launched in 1906 and the company’s reputation grew steadily. It wasn’t until the Model 10 typewriter was released in 1914 that the company experienced its first major success, and this model became the gold standard for desktop typewriters. Royal continued to make quality typewriters throughout the 20th century, which many collectors seek today. In fact, the Royal Typewriter Company is still in operation but is now known as Royal Consumer Information Products Inc. which focuses on health, sports and office products. Related Articles Popular Olympia Typewriter Models: A Unique Story
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Royal Typewriters Take to the Skies One of the most interesting aspects of the Royal Typewriter story is the company’s airmail transportation and advertising campaign. A fleet of “Royal Air Trucks” dropped crates of typewriters across America’s East Coast; allegedly around 11,000 Royal machines were sent by air mail. The media and newspaper exposure that resulted from this initiative was crucial in helping Royal make a name for itself in the highly competitive typewriter industry.
Royal Typewriter Value by Model One of the defining aspects of assessing the individual value of a typewriter is assessing the model’s popularity with modern collectors and consumers. Unless the machine is an incredibly rare model or from the early days of typewriter manufacture, the most important price estimator is demand. Here are some of Royal’s most valuable typewriters based on their rarity and popularity.
Royal Standard The Royal Standard model was launched in March 1906 and immediately distinguished itself from the competition with its ‘flat bed’ design. Flatbeds aren’t essentially stacked, front-flapping, single-tier typewriters, and while they weren’t Royal’s most popular design, they marked a moment of true typewriter innovation. Also, these machines were “standard” in that they were full-size and intended to be used in a stationary location. Since these machines are quite old and historically significant, they can be expensive, especially when overhauled by professional typewriters. One of these early Standards is listed for just over $700, and a 1913 Standard Royal 5 that has been fully refurbished is estimated at nearly $2000.
Model 10 Of this standard line, the Model 10 was the Royal Company’s breakthrough star. Introduced in 1914, and according to one typewriter enthusiast, “It offered everything you needed to type in America and was incredibly easy to use, fast and responsive.” Families around the world aspired to have a Royal Model 10 in their home to have, and they set the standard for desktop typewriters at the time. Because of their historical popularity and age, these machines are worth a lot of money. For example, an early Model 10 is listed by a seller for $700 and a 1921 Model 10 is listed for $775.
Royal Portables portable typewriters are designed to be portable, hence the name. They are generally around 10-15 pounds lighter than their standard counterparts and are made for quick notation. The Royal Typewriter Company launched its portable series significantly later than its competitors, releasing its first portable in 1926. In general, portables from the 1920s to 1940s are worth between $500 and $800, and portables from the 1950s to 1970s are worth $200 to $600. For example, a green Model P is listed for around $550 at an online typewriter seller, and Sotheby’s has a 1930s portable listed for $600.
Royal Quiet Deluxe Of the Royal portable devices, the Royal Quiet Deluxe gained a lot of fame during its tenure. It had features like a “magic margin”, fast ribbon changers, and a paper lockout scale. First released in 1939, the Royal Quiet Deluxe ran through 1948 and was then re-released in 1955 with a new range of bright, bold colours. Despite the many typewriters available to Ernest Hemmingway, the Royal Quiet Deluxe was considered his favorite. These machines, when fully functional, are worth between $500 and $700; For example, Sotheby’s auctioned one for $700.
Where to Buy Your Typewriter Perhaps the most stressful step in buying an antique or vintage typewriter is figuring out where to find one. Although it doesn’t happen very often, you can check to see if there are any typewriter repair shops in your area and see if they have any for sale. If not, looking at local antique stores and independent online dealers can help you narrow your search. The highest quality restorations are often sold by independent retailers, which you can find online or through social media. When you think you’ve found the perfect machine, have your seller confirm that it’s fully functional. When you find listings for machines being sold “as is” you know that this is code for them not being in working order.
How much were typewriters in the 1980s?
Based on 1983 sales of electronic typewriters with a list price of at least $795, Dataquest says Adler Royal Business Machines, a division of Triumph-Adler A.G. of West Germany, is the No.
Basic Typewriter Restoration
“There are still some replacement sales out there, but it’s all over for the electric typewriter in two years,” said William Lubrano, Olympia U.S.A.’s vice president of marketing.
But IBM, long known as a tough competitor, is expected to make gains in electronic typewriter sales over the next year, analysts said, thanks largely to a family of new models, the Selectric System 2000, launched in October. Mr. White said the company’s shipments are likely to increase 50 percent in 1985 and Xerox sales are expected to increase 30 percent.
prospects for the competition
“Those three letters make a big difference – the name is associated with quality,” said Peter Hammer, chief executive officer of Ajax Business Machine Corporation, a Manhattan-based office equipment supplier. “With these new products from I.B.M,” he said, “all the other guys just aren’t going to be able to hold out.”
IBM’s older electronic models – Electronic 65, 85 and 95 – cost between $1,495 and $2,395 and are designed for heavy use when writing long documents and extensive revisions. The Selectric System 2000 group, designed for a lower volume, aims to appeal to a wider range of users. There are three models ranging in price from $795 to $1,295. The high-end device, the Quietwriter 7, uses a printing technique that reduces noise.
As with other electronic products, intense competition has driven prices down even as technology becomes more advanced. Electronics are often available for less than an electric. The latest version of IBM’s Selectric, a series that began 23 years ago, retails for $945.
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Typewriter Price Guide
Photo credit: I like innovation.
Anachronisms aren’t just for hipsters anymore: Your Typewriter Buying Guide
By Valerie Farabee
Whether it’s the allure of anachronism or nostalgia for another time, the click-clack of typewriter keys lures young and old alike. The personal computer has replaced the use of the typewriter in many ways, and with it the knowledge of what to look for when choosing a typewriter must pay attention to you new typewriter. Priceonomics and I have put together a guide from the dustiest, most analog areas of the internet to help you when you decide to buy a new (for you) typewriter!
The first step, as with almost anything you need to buy, is deciding what you’re going to use the “thing” — in this case, an old typewriter — for. How do you use your typewriter? Are you creating a permanent office space that will house the typewriter? Do you need to be able to use it when you move into your van for the summer?
A portable machine comes in a case and can be moved. It’s the laptop for your desktop, in modern parlance.
A standard device is a larger device intended for use in an office. Compare these to the souped-up desktops found in large office complexes today.
Mid-century machines are often in much better condition than machines from the 1930’s and earlier. The very old machines usually need more work to be functional. Late 1970’s typewriter models typically have plastic bodies and are of poorer build quality than 1960’s and earlier typewriters. Plastic bodies can warp, bend, and crack, while metal bodies provide strength and durability.
Refurbished typewriters that have gone through a cleaning and repair process cost anywhere from $75 to several hundred dollars, but an unrestored antique typewriter, which is not uncommon, shouldn’t cost you more than $75, max.
What about those pretty metal keys?
Typewriters made before 1950 include the glass typewriter keys with the chrome rings, but lack some keys that are commonly used today. Up until the 1960s and 1970s, the vast majority of typewriters were not equipped with the 1, ! or 0 equipped. If you need a typewriter with these symbols you need to look for one that was made between 1950 and 1980, virtually all pre-1950s typewriters did not have these keys.
How much does a vintage typewriter cost?
Post-war models, i.e. typewriters from the 1950s – 1980s, are cheap and plentiful! You can find these at flea markets and thrift stores for $25 or less. They are very common, paying more than $25 is a waste of money.
The older machines made from 1900 to 1940 will cost a lot more than the cheap post war machines. An older machine in working order costs around $200. If you have a great typewriter repair shop, you can find non-working vintage typewriters for $50 and under. Refurbished vintage typewriters range from $200 to $800!
Things to look out for when taking the plunge
Once you’ve decided to buy a working typewriter, it helps to know a few things about a working typewriter! Check these three things to make sure you’re not buying a lemon: the gum, the carriage, and the keys.
Rubber. Much of the typewriter is made of rubber, from the platen and feet to the feed rollers. Rubber tends to degrade over time, so it’s important to check the condition of the rubber before purchasing a typewriter.
Check the feet. It’s very simple: Pick up the typewriter and have a look. Replacement feet are easy to get.
Watch out for the roller! The roller is the central, rubber-covered drum in the middle of the car. The feed rollers grab the paper and pull it around the platen as the typewriter operates. The roller rubber should be firm, not tight. Test it by tapping it. If it feels like tapping something hard like glass, then the rubber is too hard!
The feed rollers are a little harder to check since they are in the carriage and under the roller. They grab the paper as it enters the machine, roll it under the roller and feed it up in front of the carriage. To check if the rollers are in good condition, roll a few sheets of paper through the typewriter and see if it goes through the machine easily and comes out the other side smoothly. If so, the reels are in good condition!
Car. The carriage is the part of the typewriter that moves to the left as you type. Assuming you can test drive your typewriter in person, look for a slide that moves smoothly as you type, with working edge stops, and a bell at the end of a line. Well done! Watch out for the carriage lock feature on portable typewriters – if it doesn’t move when you first try it, make sure the carriage lock isn’t engaged before you decide it’s a lemon!
Key. If the keys on your typewriter don’t work, how much will you be able to type? Not much! Type in a few sentences “The quick brown fox jumps over the lazy dog” to see if the keys work, and check the backspace, tab, shift, and shift keys, and the spacebar. If all of these things work, you’re in business! If the keys are sticky and the hammer occasionally jams, your typewriter is still operational and just needs a little cleaning!
Try before you buy!
Although you can find typewriters on sites like eBay, Etsy, and Craigslist, it’s best to try them out at a flea market or typewriter store (yes, although there are few left!) so you can get a feel for how your product is doing is working! This allows you to personally inspect the gum, slide and keys. Type in a paragraph and see how it all works and feels to you.
Enjoy tickling those special keys and happy typing!
Collecting Antique and Vintage Typewriter Models
When typing on a smartphone, tablet, or laptop, it’s easy to forget that it wasn’t that long ago that typewriters were the only word processors available. They’re considered a staple of offices in the 1950s and ’60s, but the story goes back much further – to the late 16th century when Italian printmaker Francesco Rampazetto invented a machine to print letters on paper, known as the Scittura Tattile.
Although typewriters are a relic of a bygone era, enthusiasts are keen to collect them, whether for whim or for value. Actor Tom Hanks is one of the celebrity collectors known for liking vintage typewriters, and he reportedly keeps one handy for taking notes. While all typewriters can have sentimental value, only certain antique or vintage typewriter models can fetch a hefty price tag.
Early typewriter models
Inventor Henry Mill filed the first patent for a typewriter in 1714, but his idea never really materialized. From there, several people reportedly made the ‘first’ typewriter, including Agostino Fantoni in 1802, Pellegrino Turri in 1808, and Pietro Conti di Cilavegna in 1823. However, none of the 1870s were made until 1870, when the Hansen Writing Ball debuted Models made commercially.
Hansen writing ball: The first commercially sold typewriter was still in use in Europe in 1909. Its success was due to the placement of the keys where the most commonly used letters were easiest to reach, making using a writing ball quicker than writing by hand.
The first commercially sold typewriter was still in use in Europe in 1909. Its success was due to the arrangement of the keys where the most commonly used letters were easiest to reach, making using a stylus ball quicker than writing by hand. Typewriter by Sholes and Glidden: America’s first commercially successful typewriter was the first to bear the name “Typewriter”. It was produced by E. Remington and Sons and featured the now standard QWERTY keyboard layout.
America’s first commercially successful typewriter was the first to bear the “Typewriter” name. It was produced by E. Remington and Sons and featured the now standard QWERTY keyboard layout. Index Typewriter: Appreciated by some for their lightness, Index typewriters never really caught on because they were slower than other models. These machines, the most popular of which was the Mignon made by AEG, used a stylus to select a letter from an index.
Appreciated by some for their lightness, Index typewriters never really stood out because they were slower than other models. These machines, the most popular of which was the Mignon made by AEG, used a stylus to select a letter from an index. Blickensderfer Electric Typewriter: One of the first electric typewriters, the 1902 Blickensford model used a cylindrical daisy wheel instead of individual type bars. However, this particular model was not a commercial success.
Vintage typewriter models
Typewriters made after 1920 are generally considered “vintage” rather than “antique”.
Electromatic Model 04: Manufactured by IBM in the early 1940s, this model introduced proportional spacing that would become a staple of IBM typewriters.
This model, manufactured by IBM in the early 1940s, introduced proportional spacing that would become a staple of IBM typewriters. IBM Selectric: The IBM Selectric, introduced in 1961, was the first to feature reversed letters on a small typewriter and used a system powered by an electric motor that slammed the letters against the ribbon and roller. It would become the most popular office typewriter for the next two decades.
The IBM Selectric, introduced in 1961, was the first to feature reversed letters on a small typewriter, using an electric motor-powered system that slammed the letters against the ribbon and roller. It would become the most popular office typewriter for the next two decades. Electronic typewriters: Electronic typewriters made their debut in the late 1970s and early 1980s, as typewriter use declined. The electronic memory and display allowed a user to see and correct errors before the page was printed, making these models early forms of word processing.
Value of antique and vintage typewriter models
Collectors looking for antique or vintage typewriter models can usually identify them by the brand name stamped on the face of the machine, although pinpointing the exact year of manufacture can be difficult. By finding the typewriter’s serial and model number, a collector may be able to determine the age of the machine.
Not all typewriters, even vintage models, are valuable. In general, the older the typewriter, the more valuable it is. Machines made between the 1950’s and 1980’s don’t fetch a high price as they can easily be found at thrift stores, flea markets, and other second hand places to buy. One exception: WWII typewriters are rare to find, but very valuable due to their historical significance.
Typewriters made in the 1940s or earlier, especially those made in the 19th century, can be worth some money if they are still in working order. Non-working antique typewriters are typically worth around $50, but refurbished models can fetch $800 or more.
The value of antique and vintage typewriter models can depend on a variety of factors beyond age, including:
Basic Typewriter Restoration
Before you do anything, decide if you’re willing to live with the consequences if you screw up. Try to make sure your changes are undoable and don’t do anything with a really rare machine except gently dust and clean. The best way to become familiar with restoration techniques is to experiment first on an ordinary typewriter (how about a good old Underwood No. 5?). If possible, test all these techniques on a hidden surface of the typewriter before attacking the main surfaces.
Will Davis’s online typewriter support has more advice on operating, maintaining, and repairing a manual typewriter.
For more good restoration ideas, check out the Typewriter Restoration Site.
The names of some of the products below are linked to Google Shopping so you can compare prices online.
First Cleaning and Lubrication Click here for a simple, illustrated guide to cleaning and lubrication from a 1977 Reader’s Digest book.
Soft, clean, white cotton rags. You will go through many of these. The gentlest course of action (recommended initially) is to wipe down the typewriter with a wet rag or a rag dipped in water with a few drops of dish soap.
. You will go through many of these. The gentlest course of action (recommended initially) is to wipe down the typewriter with a wet rag or a rag dipped in water with a few drops of dish soap. Brushes: You can try toothbrushes, nail brushes, brushes for cleaning guns or dentures, and artist brushes. The bristles of the brushes can be trimmed to make them stiffer.
: You can try toothbrushes, nail brushes, brushes for cleaning guns or dentures, and artist brushes. The bristles of the brushes can be trimmed to make them stiffer. Cotton swabs are good for cleaning hard-to-reach places. (Synthetic-tipped alternative: Tipton’s Shooter Swabs. One collector wrote to me, “Instead of using Q-tips, you can roll your own swabs with wooden sticks (6″ long x 1/16″ dia) and cotton-wool bamboo skewers work just as well.” and last for days/weeks.A roll of cotton will last about a million swabs.Once a swab gets dirty, peel it off and replace it.The most important thing is Use damp – not wet – swabs.You can achieve this by using roll a wet swab on a piece of blotting paper. This will avoid flooding the surface and preventing water from seeping into the wrong places.”
are good for cleaning hard-to-reach places. (Synthetic-tipped alternative: Tipton’s Shooter Swabs. One collector wrote to me, “Instead of using Q-tips, you can roll your own swabs with wooden sticks (6″ long x 1/16″ dia) and cotton-wool bamboo skewers work just as well.” and last for days/weeks.A roll of cotton will last about a million swabs.Once a swab gets dirty, peel it off and replace it.The most important thing is Use damp – not wet – swabs.You can achieve this by using roll a wet swab on a piece of blotting paper. This will avoid flooding the surface and preventing water from seeping into the wrong places.” For initial dust removal, vacuum hose attachment kits available at computer and computer stores, as well as catalogs, work very well and are particularly useful for cleaning mechanical parts.
For more precise blasts of compressed air, purchase an electronic equipment cleaner canister (these are available at most office supply stores).
You can also attach your leaf blower to your dusty old typewriter or take it to the gas station and use the compressed air. (Probably not a good idea for rare typewriters!)
Meghan S. writes: “Hey, I found something that worked wonders for initial dust removal a few months ago when I bought a new machine – dryer sheets! Dust generally sticks to the sheet – even dust you didn’t know was there. Helps with thin layers of fat that even cotton rags easily move. And they’re thin enough that you can get into hard-to-reach spaces (just not the small parts).”
Soft Scrub is a gentle liquid cleanser that is readily available. To remove heavy dirt, try applying diluted Soft Scrub with a finger or rag and removing it over and over and over with a rag. Caution: some paint finishes will be scratched even by this cleaner. But my Caligraph required a vigorous scrubbing with undiluted Soft Scrub!
is a gentle liquid cleanser that is readily available. To remove heavy dirt, try applying diluted Soft Scrub with a finger or rag and removing it over and over and over with a rag. Caution: some paint finishes will be scratched even by this cleaner. But my Caligraph required a vigorous scrubbing with undiluted Soft Scrub! Try Dentucreme: “Yes, the toothpaste for dentures. It’s very slightly abrasive and extremely effective on surfaces that would scratch. I use it on pearlescent and other delicate surfaces.” – Lane Welch
: “Yes, the toothpaste for dentures. It is very slightly abrasive and extremely effective on surfaces that would show scratches. I use it on mother-of-pearl and other delicate surfaces.” –Lane Welch Steve Maloney reports that “Gojo”, a hand cleaner, is excellent for cleaning OE paint black.
“, a hand cleaner, is great for cleaning original lacquer black. Scrubbing Bubbles is good at getting into tiny crevices on crease paint. Use a toothbrush to get it into the creases. It tends to remove some paint, and can damage decals, so be careful.
. Use a toothbrush to get it into the creases. It tends to remove some paint and can damage decals, so use caution. “I wouldn’t recommend using furniture polish on typewriters with a textured finish. I’ve found that the best way to clean these surfaces without buffing away the textured surface is to use a ‘fingernail’ brush and a solution of baking soda and mild dish soap. I’m being generous with the baking soda and conservative with the dish soap. The main purpose of dishwashing detergent is to remove oils. You might be surprised at how much dirt collects in these textured surfaces.” – Paul Dobias
, I would not recommend using furniture polish. I’ve found that the best way to clean these surfaces without buffing the textured surface is to use a “fingernail” brush and a solution of baking soda and mild dish soap. I’m liberal on the baking soda and conservative on the dish soap. Dishwashing detergent is mainly there to remove oils. You’d be surprised how much dirt collects in these textured paints.” — Paul Dobias “A very good cleaner that works well for crackle finishes is Dow Scrubbing Bubbles. It is a foaming, water-based cleaner that removes dirt and other dirt from the nooks and crannies in the finish. It also works well on smooth surfaces, but is really good when you’re trying to get into detail. It’s also great for things like oilcloth and faux leather carrying cases. The current product is made by Johnson and I don’t think it’s as good as the original Dow product, but it’s still very good. I have used it for car interiors such as headliners and/or musical instrument cases and tolex covered music amplifiers. Using a soft brush like an old toothbrush works well. After wiping off the last application it is then good to wipe down the surface with plain water until clean.” –Tim McCoy
is Dow Scrubbing Bubbles. It is a foaming, water-based cleaner that removes dirt and other dirt from the nooks and crannies in the finish. It also works well on smooth surfaces, but is really good when you’re trying to get into detail. It’s also great for things like oilcloth and faux leather carrying cases. The current product is made by Johnson and I don’t think it’s as good as the original Dow product, but it’s still very good. I have used it for car interiors such as headliners and/or musical instrument cases and tolex covered music amplifiers. Using a soft brush like an old toothbrush works well. After wiping off the last application it is then good to wipe down the surface with plain water until clean.” –Tim McCoy “Another more aggressive product, but still water-based, is Krud Kutter; This stuff will remove grease from an old engine but will not damage the paint. Like the Scrubbing Bubbles, it should be wiped down with clean water until all traces of dirt are removed. There is an even more aggressive version called Krud Kutter Graffiti Remover. I haven’t tried it, but it might be useful in a watered-down form, but test it on something before you use it on a collectible.” –Tim McCoy
“For post-war machines, use pot and pan cleaner or even dish soap – it cuts through the dirt and makes any gray typewriter that little bit less grey/dull.” – Nick Bodemer
Oil improves the function of some parts, especially when applied to the carriage rails. Apply very sparingly with the end of a pin or paperclip. Use a light, high-quality oil. 3-in-1 oil is a readily available option. A better choice is probably gun oil like Hoppe’s Gun Oil or a penetrant like PB Blaster.
. It’s not a good idea to put oil in the segment (the slotted piece that holds the typebars); The oil can get dirty and sticky after a while.
(the slotted piece that holds the typebars); The oil can get dirty and sticky after a while. It’s not a good idea to use WD-40 on a typewriter. It’s not a good lubricant for fine machinery and after a while it gets sticky and makes things worse than ever.
on a typewriter. It’s not a good lubricant for fine machinery and after a while it gets sticky and makes things worse than ever. Gun cleaning solvents can be very useful. I’ve had good luck with Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber. Other products I’ve heard of are M-Pro gun cleaning spray, G-96 and Break Free.
Liquid Wrench Super Penetrant has worked very well for me to remove old oil and lubricating mechanisms.
has worked very well for me in removing old oil and lubricating mechanisms. PB Blaster can remove old grease and release parts. It can also restore the luster of dark crinkled paint as it seeps into tiny cracks.
can remove old grease and free parts. It can also restore the luster of dark crinkled paint as it seeps into tiny cracks. Stronger products (use outdoors and test discreetly on decals and paint) include naphtha (lighter fluid) and carburetor cleaner.
“Even a good cleaner consists of equal parts acetone, automatic transmission fluid, kerosene and mineral spirits. Be careful with the acetone though. This is a standard firearms cleaning mix for cleaning barrels etc. For really dirty typewriters it works pretty well.” – Paul Ross
Mineral spirits (e.g. Varsol or Stoddard Solvent, available at paint shops) have been recommended to me. “Brush up the mineral spirits with a natural fiber brush bonded to the handle with metal rather than plastic. The machine should then be CAREFULLY blown out with an air compressor. Then apply a light coat of grease to the moving parts.”
“When cleaning and lubricating, I would recommend after-treating to a heavier oil after degreasers and lighter oils. Also, oils used near chipped and delaminating coatings can contribute to further delamination. For example to blow off dust, remove grease deposits and leave a thin layer of smear, I would recommend using TV Tuner Cleaner and then applying a light oil.” – Paul Dobias
“At 50 cents apiece, Southern Bloomer’s cleaning rags may be expensive (after all, they get dirty quickly), but they leave no lint and have been a great help.” – Robert Neuwirth
“Automatic transmission fluid diluted 50% in kerosene is an excellent rust inhibitor and general lubricant. It is high in antioxidants so it does not ‘gummy’ over time. As with oiling, apply sparingly.” – Paul Ross
Instead of lubricating with oil, which will eventually collect dust and make the mechanism stick again, you can try dry graphite powder. (This is not recommended for use with aluminum as graphite has a high galvanic difference to aluminum and will attack and corrode it.)
recommended for use on anything that contains aluminum as graphite has a high galvanic difference to aluminum and will attack and corrode it.) “Tipton’s Metal Magic Rust & Lead Removal Wipes do a good job of rubbing dirt, rust and discoloration off typebars and more bare metal parts.Leaves a bit greasy feeling so you’ll have to rub off with a plain cloth after you’re done.—Robert Neuwirth
“Iosso Gunbrite is good at removing serious surface rust without destroying chromed surfaces, although you have to rub like crazy.” – Robert Neuwirth
Plate Cleaning: Several brands of rubber/plastic conditioner can remove more dirt after an initial wipe down with water and Soft Scrub. See the next section for more information on disks. “Gum revitalizers” clean the rollers but don’t actually rejuvenate the gum. The stuff is also good for loosening old grease, like grease stuck in the slots of a segment, in my experience.
Fedron Rubber Cleaner Conditioner is a heavy duty solvent that cleans types and rollers. If you find a smudge (like the type used for liquid shoe polish), spread a thin layer over the type and let sit for a minute or two, then wipe off with a rag. If the roller can be removed, put some Fedron on a rag and wipe off the rubber. It instantly removes dirt, ink and rust stains. Fedron is tough: be careful to keep it away from paint, decals, and all delicate parts and materials (like cords and plastic). Use in a well-ventilated area: it stinks!
“That smell of mold” is a common problem, especially with portable devices – and if you’re allergic to mold it can be a real health hazard. Yes, the smell is mainly caused by mold combined with decades of dust and cigarette smoke. Mold doesn’t grow on metal, but it does on typewriter ribbons and fabric-covered cases. Take your typewriter out of its case and blow out the lint and dust (this is where a can of compressed air comes in handy for cleaning computer and stereo equipment). Throw away the tape. Look carefully for surfaces that may have mold (typebars usually rest on cloth or felt; some typewriters also have felt elsewhere to deaden noise). Clean and polish the machine using the materials I list on this page. Enclosures can be cleaned with harsher materials such as scrubbing blowers, Concrobium mildewicide, Lysol, window cleaner, or ammonia. The eraser pads from Mr. Clean were also recommended to me for this purpose. Then let everything dry well, preferably in the sunlight. Store typewriters and cases in dry, moderate-temperature environments. You may need to re-clean the cases about every 6 months.
Paul Panella writes: “I have found that the musty smell can be removed from the old faux leather suitcases by first wiping them down with a light disinfectant wipe. I use Clorox disinfectant wipes. Then I apply a generous coat of Old English Lemon Oil furniture polish inside and out. The faux leather just soaks it up and it seems to get rid of the strong odor without leaving any residue. These old cases are so dry that the lemon oil disappears almost immediately.
Paul Musgrave writes: “Sometimes the smell of an old typewriter is quite pleasant and should be left as is for the sake of authenticity. Another time, an old typewriter was left in a basement where a nasty, eye-searing fungus has taken up its claim on the dormant old machine. This is especially true for high-end portables (those with felt soundproofing) that have been left in a humid environment in their wooden cases. Some examples are the Smith Corona Silent and Olympia SMs.
“My first experience with a nasty, moldy typewriter was a Smith Corona Super. I went as far as removing the felt, but unfortunately I couldn’t get the soundproofing to work properly afterwards. I changed tactics after that experience. My next machine was with a Smith Corona Silent (Speedline). It’s a nice machine, but the musty smell was strong enough to fill the room. This time I used Concrobium Mold Control. It’s sold in spray bottles at Home Depot (among other retailers) I took the case off the Silent and gently sprayed the Concrobium onto the felt (it leaves a misty glaze on most parts so I highly recommend being precise when spraying. ..even pressing the nozzle directly against the felt and slowly injecting the liquid into the felt). After soaking it in the felt for a few minutes, I dipped the excess in a paper towel and let the pieces air dry. Sure enough, the concrobium killed all the mold and spores living in the felt and took the sting out of the smell. I’ve tried the same technique with an SC Skyriter with success. From what I understand Concrobium leaves an antifungal and antimicrobial film wherever it is applied to kill any fungus on it and prevent it from returning. Since the felt in a typewriter is almost always hidden and only used for sound deadening, I can’t imagine the foil would be a problem. It’s been almost a year since I treated my Silent and I haven’t had any ill effects.
“In most cases, the wooden carrier bag often absorbs the musty smell. This was the case with my Silent. I was able to clean the bag (inside and out) using the techniques I learned on your website which helped somewhat. To kill the rest of the smell, I took some fresh pipe tobacco (cheap drugstore stuff will do, as long as it smells nice), wrapped it in about a silver dollar worth of coffee filter, and tied it into a bundle using tie wraps and a garbage bag put it in the typewriter case. After a few weeks, the slight remnant of the old typewriter smell mixes with the smell of the fresh pipe tobacco and the typewriter smells heavenly. I wouldn’t normally recommend tobacco use for everyone, but in this case it was put to really good use!”
Improvement of paint, metal, rubber and other parts
rust
Rust removal should be attempted first with the gentlest method. In order from gentlest to roughest, I recommend: Mother’s Mag & Aluminum Polish (available at auto supply stores); superfine steel wool (try to avoid getting the steel shavings in the mechanism); superfine sandpaper; coarser steel wool; a synthetic scouring pad; a rotary tool (e.g. a Dremel) with a wire brush attachment (I recommend the cup-shaped brush; wear eye protection as bits of wire will fly off); a rotary tool with a Cratex attachment (rubber impregnated with a tough material). The Cratex attachments do a great job removing rust but leave marks. Use for initial heavy rust removal and then finish with a wire brush to smooth the surface.
Evapo-Rust is an excellent product when you need to remove rust from the entire body of a machine or when you want to derust individual parts without using the above methods. You dip things in this product and only the rust goes away. It is non-toxic and reusable. To submerge an entire typewriter you will need 5 gallons (it can be diluted a little with water if needed). Remove the body panels and plate. If there is any paint and decals left, protect them with a good coat of wax as the Evapo rust can damage them. After soaking in Evapo-Rust for up to 24 hours, rinse off with water. Then dry them immediately with a hair dryer or other means. (On some parts, you may not mind having residue of Evapo-Rust that protects against future rust, so you don’t need to rinse it off.) Evapo-Rust can leave a dull or dark-colored residue on surfaces, which can be easily buffed clean . You can also get acceptable effects by spraying Evapo-Rust on repeatedly for about an hour instead of submerging the machine. Some products chemically identical to Evapo-Rust are also available. They and the original can be found on eBay with a search for “Evapo-Rust”.
“To remove minor rust, use an electric eraser (aka ‘architect’s eraser’). Koh-I-Noor and Staedtler both make fairly inexpensive models with a variety of eraser leads. The gray inked erasers are the most aggressive. The soft, white leads are particularly good for removing light surface dirt and oxide layers (practice on a tarnished penny!).”
colour
Here’s a really easy way to touch up small black spots of paint (which is by far the most common color on early typewriters): Use a permanent black marker. This is easy to apply, lies flat on the surface and can make a world of difference. Despite the term “permanent,” it’s also easier to remove than paint.
What if you want or need to use real color? This is where auto touch up paint, sold in small bottles at car dealerships, can help. It dries to a glossy finish and isn’t thick or lumpy as long as it’s shaken enough beforehand. But look closely at your typewriter in the sunlight after this ink has dried – you may find that it is not actually as black as the original ink.
“The colored pencil to use is Uni-Paint Medium Line PX-20 (or Fine Line if you prefer) Opaque Oil Base Marker. You can order them from Staples in almost every color of the rainbow. They only take a day or two to get.” – Robert Nelson
“When touching up coatings ensure surfaces are oil free, buff exposed substrate materials with an abrasive pad and coat with nail polish. The ‘anchor tooth’ of sanding ensures adhesion, but your requirements will likely be no higher than a simple visually discernible surface profile. Nail polishes come in many shades, so you should be able to find your exact match. They also tend to of becoming slightly thicker than some of the automotive paint finishes, which adds to the depth and gloss of the paint to better simulate the multi-layer effect of paint finishes.” – Paul Dobias
“Goo Gone” can remove unwanted paint added by a previous owner, revealing the original paint and decals underneath. It also removes wite-out.
To restore faded color on keys and dials, try Lacquer-Stik Fill-In Paint.
feet and feed rollers
Bob Aubert offers new replacement feet made from black Buna N synthetic rubber, which is far more durable than the original composite material. Feet are sold in sets for the following typewriters: Columbia/Barlock Models 1-20; Hammond 1 – 12 and the non-foldable multiplex; Harris/Rex visible 4; L.C. Smith 1-8; Oliver 1 – 11; Smith Premiers 1 – 10; Remington Standard 10; King’s Bed 1 – 5; early Royal 10; undergrowth 1 – 5; Wellington 2 & 3; Williams 1 – 6, Yost 1 – 4 and some portables. Prices vary from $7.50 to $35.00 per set (postpaid) depending on size and whether or not mounting hardware is included. It does not have a tapered square of rectangular feet. Two different sizes of step buffers are available. They will work with any typewriter with 1/2″ or 5/8″ mounting holes. If you need a different shaft diameter, these feet can be adjusted. For more information, Bob can email [email protected] or call (856) 461-7080.
You can also visit your local hardware store in search of rubber pieces that will work as feet. Sometimes a rubber stopper is ideal (tip: push in the big end first, not the small end). Andy McWilliams writes that this item worked perfectly to replace the feet on a Remington #5 portable (and they will likely work on similar Remington portables): 27/32 x 9/32 inch Slip Joint Washers, Home Depot Order no. 38809b Manufactured by Danco Co., Concordville, PA 19331. Ryan Long was fortunate enough to fit his own Remington No. 5 portable with “Replacement Aqua-Seal Washers for ‘American Standard'”, size: fits 2k-2h and 2c, manufactured by Danco for faucet repair. They fit in place and lock with an O-ring.
A collector writes: “I am writing to add a tip regarding typewriter feet. I found this stuff really awesome and very reasonably priced compared to professionally made feet or even buying new old stock. It costs about $9.00-$12.00 for a package. The product is called Sugru. It is an air cure molding adhesive that dries overnight to a soft silicone/rubber and is available in a variety of colors that can also be mixed to custom colors. Black, white and gray are also available. You can mold, shape or cover things with it and it will stick to whatever surface you apply it to! It can even be ordered in magnetized form.”
Wine cork discs can make an easy replacement for feet if you don’t feel you need rubber.
Another option is to refurbish the old rubber feet. Carl Strange recommends “a product called Plasti Dip, which is usually thought of as a hand tool coating; it gives new life (and restores volume, not to mention a rubbery feel) to emaciated typewriter feet. A can costs about $8. I’ve used it on a 1941 Underwood Champion and my dear old Underwood 11 with very satisfactory results.”
Feed rollers are often hardened or have developed “flat spots” from decades of being pressed against the roller. Matthieu Théorêt reports that removing the old rubber and replacing it with heat shrink tubing may be the solution. “For the rear rollers I used about 8 layers of tubing, shrunk and cut to give a great look. The front rollers only needed 4 layers. I used a smaller diameter tubing which I loosened with my pliers so the shrunken result would be quite tight.”
are often hardened or have developed “flats” from being pressed against the plate for decades. Matthieu Théorêt reports that removing the old rubber and replacing it with heat shrink tubing may be the solution. “For the rear rollers I used about 8 layers of tubing, shrunk and cut to give a great look. The front rollers only needed 4 layers. Ich habe einen Schlauch mit kleinerem Durchmesser verwendet, den ich mit meiner Zange gelöst habe, damit das geschrumpfte Ergebnis entsteht ganz fest sein.” Bob Aubert schlägt vor, Gummischläuche für Autos zu verwenden, um Ihre Vorschubwalzen zu bergen. „Ich habe es mindestens hundert Mal so gemacht und es funktioniert! Bringen Sie Ihre alten Walzen einfach zu einem Autohaus, fragen Sie nach ihrem Schlauchbestand, wählen Sie etwas aus, das in der Nähe ist, und es wird in Ordnung sein. Kaufen Sie nach einer Marke das ist außen glatt! Schneiden Sie es grob zu, stecken Sie es auf, stecken Sie den Schaft in eine elektrische Bohrmaschine und schneiden Sie den Überschuss mit einem Rasiermesser ab, während es sich dreht. Es wird aussehen, als wäre es in der Remington-Fabrik gemacht worden!“
Möglicherweise können Sie auch Vorschubrollen mit Latexschläuchen zurückgewinnen, die in einigen Baumärkten nach Länge verkauft werden.
Eine andere Lösung, die es wert ist, ausprobiert zu werden, sind Bleistiftgriffe.
Schwarzes Isolierband kann auch funktionieren, und für diese Methode müssen Sie die Einzugsrollen nicht aus ihrem Gehäuse entfernen (was manchmal schwierig ist). Schneiden und kratzen Sie einfach den alten Gummi ab und bringen Sie das Klebeband an, indem Sie es ziemlich fest dehnen und so lang machen, wie es sein muss, um den ursprünglichen Durchmesser zu reproduzieren. Legen Sie es so an, dass die normale Drehrichtung dazu neigt, das Ende des Bandes immer weiter zu glätten.
Ein letzter Vorschlag für Vorschubrollen: Wenn sie mit einem Fön erhitzt werden, können sie biegsam werden und Sie können sie möglicherweise umformen. Hitze kann Ihnen auch dabei helfen, Einzugsrollen von einer Walze zu lösen.
plates
Kräftiges Schrubben mit Soft Scrub entfernt die schmutzige und glitschige Außenschicht des Gummis und verbessert die Griffigkeit.
Sie können auch versuchen, die Walze aufzurauen, indem Sie sie mit Sandpapier schrubben, aber ich mag die Ergebnisse von Soft Scrub besser.
Bremsflüssigkeit (DOT 3) reagiert chemisch mit Gummi und baut es ab. Es weicht Gummi unzulässig auf, wenn es ihm über einen längeren Zeitraum ausgesetzt wird. Eine kleine Belichtung kann jedoch der äußersten Schicht einer Platte ein wenig Flexibilität und Griffigkeit verleihen. Sie können eine dünne Schicht Bremsflüssigkeit mit einem Papiertuch auftragen, etwa eine Stunde einwirken lassen und dann alle Rückstände abwischen. Haut- und Augenkontakt vermeiden. Lassen Sie nach diesem Vorgang mehrere Stunden trocknen, da die Außenseite der Druckplatte zunächst zu weich ist und nicht berührt oder verwendet werden sollte.
Verwenden Sie ein oder zwei Blätter Trägerpapier zum Polstern, wenn Ihre Druckplatte hart ist.
Bis April 2012 bot die Ames Supply Co. aus Illinois einen Plattenrückgewinnungsservice an. Im Mai 2012 gaben sie bekannt, dass sie nach 110 Jahren ihr Geschäft aufgeben würden.
In Deutschland werden die Platten von Eveline Theobald Büromaschinen zurückgenommen.
, Platten werden von Eveline Theobald Büromaschinen geborgen. Wenden Sie sich in Italien an Domenico Scarzello oder Alessio Vescovo.
wenden Sie sich an Domenico Scarzello oder Alessio Vescovo. In den Niederlanden wird AKB Longs Platten zurückgewinnen.
, AKB Longs wird Platten erholen. In der Schweiz übernimmt Typ Gummi TGW die Aufgabe.
, Typ Gummi TGW wird die Arbeit erledigen. Wenden Sie sich in Großbritannien an Mr. & Mrs. Vintage Typewriters oder versuchen Sie es mit Longs.
, wenden Sie sich an Mr. & Mrs. Vintage Typewriters oder versuchen Sie es mit Longs. In den USA hat J.J. Kurze erholt Platten. Schreiben Sie an Peter unter [email protected], um ein Angebot zu erhalten, und geben Sie die folgenden Informationen an: den Innendurchmesser des Gummischlauchs oder den Außendurchmesser des Holz- oder Metallkerns ohne Gummi; der aktuelle Außendurchmesser der Platte; und die Länge des Gummis. “Für mehrere Platten im gleichen Größenbereich bieten wir ermäßigte Preise für Mengen von 2-5 und 6+ an.”
, J.J. Kurze erholt Platten. Schreiben Sie an Peter unter [email protected], um ein Angebot zu erhalten, und geben Sie die folgenden Informationen an: den Innendurchmesser des Gummischlauchs oder den Außendurchmesser des Holz- oder Metallkerns ohne Gummi; der aktuelle Außendurchmesser der Platte; und die Länge des Gummis. “Für mehrere Platten im gleichen Größenbereich bieten wir ermäßigte Preise für Mengen von 2-5 und 6+ an.” West Coast Platen, http://www.platen.com/, hatte ab Juni 2012 einige Ersatzplatten auf Lager. Sie können eine E-Mail an [email protected] senden.
Rino Breebart hat in seinem Blog illustriert, wie er eine Hermes-Walze mit einem Fahrradschlauch geborgen hat. Für einen Durchmesser und eine Glätte, die den ursprünglichen Spezifikationen entsprechen, möchten Sie wahrscheinlich eine professionell installierte neue Walze erhalten, aber dies ist eine interessante Möglichkeit.
Ich habe farbigen Schrumpfschlauch verwendet, um einer Druckplatte eine neue Oberfläche und eine neue Farbe (lila!) zu geben. Das ist wie mit einem Fahrradschlauch nicht die professionellste und präziseste Lösung, aber es macht zumindest Spaß. Sie benötigen einen Schlauch, der groß genug ist, um problemlos über die Platte zu passen. Sie können es über einem Gasherdbrenner erhitzen, häufig drehen und die Platte von Zeit zu Zeit auf einer Theke rollen, um die Falten zu glätten. Nach 5-10 Minuten sitzt der Schlauch fest auf der Platte.
Detaillierung
Viele frühe Schreibmaschinen sind mit Nadelstreifen verziert – oft sind dies dünne parallele Linien in Blau und Gelb. Beugler bietet ein Kit zum präzisen Pinstriping mit Farbe an. Anderes Zubehör für Nadelstreifen ist bei Finesse Pinstriping erhältlich. Sie können Nadelstreifen-Aufkleber auch in vielen Hobbygeschäften finden oder sie bei The Antique Phonograph Supply Co., Route 23, Box 123, Davenport Center, NY 13751-0123, Telefon 607-278-6218 bestellen.
Bits of gold may be missing from the decals or lettering. One amateurish solution is to touch them up with a fine-point metallic gold marker. This is easily scratched off, but for the beginner that’s probably a virtue. The metallic marker really can improve the neatness of your typewriter if it’s used wisely.
Replacement decals for many antique typewriters are offered by Paul Robert. Visit his Etsy shop here. A longer list of his decals is here.
It’s possible to get nickel parts replated. You may want to consult a professional (such as Rayco Metal Finishing), but a home replating kit is made by Vigor-Bestfit, 320 Thornton Road, Lithia Springs, GA 30057. Phone 770-944-2733, fax 770-944-2765. The kit is available at Zak Jewelry Tools, 55 West 47th Street, New York, NY, phone 212-768-8122.
Replacement leather handle straps (for cases) can be cut from used leather belts. Nice replacement leather handles are also available at some music stores, as they are used on instrument cases.
If the key legends (the letters, numbers, etc.) on your keys are stained or faded, you can replace them. It helps a lot to have special tools for removing and replacing the metal key rings. I have prepared a PDF of key legends that you can download here. Print it on a laser printer at actual size (not “shrink to fit”). The PDF is high-resolution (1200dpi), but the quality of your printout will depend on your printer, the print settings, and the paper used. You may also prefer this black-and-white (bitmap) version.
Polishing
For a safe, effective finish used by museums, I recommend Renaissance brand microcrystalline wax. It can be found on eBay and at various online suppliers. Apply and buff the wax with clean cotton cloth.
A good alternative is a commercial blend of microcrystalline waxes, in paste form, such as Johnson’s “Klear” or “AeroWax.”
Mother’s Carnauba Cleaner Wax (available in auto supply stores) works nicely. Other car finishes, such as Turtle Wax, can also work well.
Wax can be removed with a cloth dampened in mineral spirits (such as Varsol and Stoddard Solvent). Use in a well-ventilated area.
Pledge is an easily available polish that I have often used as a cleaning and polishing agent. Spray it on a clean rag, wipe the part you’re polishing thoroughly with the rag, repeat until the rag doesn’t look brownish at all. However, I have been warned that overuse of Pledge can leave a sticky residue. It also contains silicone, which may be impossible to remove later; do not spray it on the mechanism, and do not use Pledge on a rare machine. Endust claims that it contains no silicone. Nick Bodemer reports, “For prewar typewriters, I use Old English Lemon Furniture Polish–it works very well, and does not remove decals (even on a 1930s Royal).”
is an easily available polish that I have often used as a cleaning and polishing agent. Spray it on a clean rag, wipe the part you’re polishing thoroughly with the rag, repeat until the rag doesn’t look brownish at all. However, I have been warned that overuse of Pledge can leave a sticky residue. It also contains silicone, which may be impossible to remove later; do not spray it on the mechanism, and do not use Pledge on a rare machine. claims that it contains no silicone. Nick Bodemer reports, “For prewar typewriters, I use Old English Lemon Furniture Polish–it works very well, and does not remove decals (even on a 1930s Royal).” I’ve also heard that Fantastick works well as a polish and cleaner.
works well as a polish and cleaner. Other effective polishes include Armor All and Klasse All-in-One Polish.
and Elaine Golladay suggests Klasse All in One Acrylic Protectant. Note that this car polish will leave a strong and shiny acrylic layer on the typewriter.
Mother’s Mag & Aluminum Polish (available at auto supply stores) is an excellent cleaner and polish for metal parts both large and small. On machines with a lot of aluminum (such as the Blick 6 or Hammond Folding) this stuff can work a miraculous transformation.
Other metal polishes include Flyt (available at gun shops) and Simichrome (which has been highly recommended to me for aluminum — ask at auto supply shops).
Chapman Mfg. Co. has put together a nice screwdriver kit with bits designed especially for typewriter repair.
You may want to invest in a set of gunsmith’s screwdriver s. They are available in boxed sets with up to 58 interchangeable bits, as well as ultrathin sets. This allows you to find a perfect fit for every slotted screwhead, so damage is less likely to occur. (Note that older screws tend to have much narrower slots than modern ones.) “The best source for these screwdrivers is Brownell’s, Inc., 200 South Front Street, Montezuma, Iowa 50171; tel. 515-623-5401; fax 515-623-3896. Check out their ‘Magna-Tip Super-Sets.’ You’ll wonder how you managed without them. About $82.00, but they’ll last a lifetime.”
s. They are available in boxed sets with up to 58 interchangeable bits, as well as ultrathin sets. This allows you to find a perfect fit for every slotted screwhead, so damage is less likely to occur. (Note that older screws tend to have much narrower slots than modern ones.) “The best source for these screwdrivers is Brownell’s, Inc., 200 South Front Street, Montezuma, Iowa 50171; tel. 515-623-5401; fax 515-623-3896. Check out their ‘Magna-Tip Super-Sets.’ You’ll wonder how you managed without them. About $82.00, but they’ll last a lifetime.” Magnetic screwdrivers are helpful for holding on to screws.
screwdrivers are helpful for holding on to screws. Sears sells very useful sets of Craftsman tools meant for repairing computers and other electronic equipment. The tools are hard steel, many have fine tips, and an ample variety of screwdrivers is included.
Dental picks are helpful as a means of reaching and manipulating interior areas.
are helpful as a means of reaching and manipulating interior areas. A common problem is a broken carriage drawband (cord or strap). The basic principle is simple: attach a new drawband to the barrel (containing the mainspring) and one end of the carriage. The mainspring normally does not have to be wound up while you are doing this; it can be tightened later. But this is all easier said than done, and this repair can be frustrating. The method will vary based on the model of typewriter. You may want to use or create a long, thin wire with a hook at the end which can be pushed under the carriage and used to pull the cord through.
Kite string or strong f ishing line can be a helpful replacement for broken drawbands. Rob Bowker writes, “In the absence of fine waxed string I have at one time used baler twine, but more poetically I have used ‘cat-gut’ – a nice organic replacement. A 1950s, warped and unplayable tennis racket was the donor.”
or strong can be a helpful replacement for broken drawbands. Rob Bowker writes, “In the absence of fine waxed string I have at one time used baler twine, but more poetically I have used ‘cat-gut’ – a nice organic replacement. A 1950s, warped and unplayable tennis racket was the donor.” Flat shoelaces can replace carriage pull straps.
can replace carriage pull straps. Sometimes the mainspring itself is broken. Usually one end of it has snapped off. Open up the barrel to take a look. You can usually make a new hole in the end of the spring using a Dremel wheel, and reattach the spring to the barrel.
Rob Blickensderfer ([email protected]) makes parts for various antique typewriters, such as Hammond ribbon spool covers, Blickensderfer paper supports and release bails, and cranks for the Smith Premier brush cleaner. Very reasonably priced.
Jim Donahue (770-714-0556, [email protected]) runs “Oliverservices,” with many parts for Olivers as well as several products to service them: ribbons, touch-up paint, stainless return cable, replated parts, etc. Visit his eBay store here.
David Randall shows us how to make new ribbon covers for a Remington noiseless portable on his blog as well as how to make new tab stops.
typing
Ribbons for most typewriters can sometimes still be found as close as your nearest office supply shop. The standard width is half an inch, and you’ll find that this will work on almost all typewriters made after 1920 or so. If your typewriter can type in two colors (and most can), buy a black-and-red ribbon: it looks nice! For suggestions on ribbon sources, see my FAQ.
for most typewriters can sometimes still be found as close as your nearest office supply shop. The standard width is half an inch, and you’ll find that this will work on almost all typewriters made after 1920 or so. If your typewriter can type in two colors (and most can), buy a black-and-red ribbon: it looks nice! For suggestions on ribbon sources, see my FAQ. Ribbon spools must be appropriate to your machine. The most common are the kind that fit Underwoods, Smith-Coronas, and Royal portables; German typewriters usually use a type called DIN 2103 which has a larger central hole. Olivetti spools need to be held down with a particular kind of nut (type DIN 466 M3); you can find new ones online.
must be appropriate to your machine. The most common are the kind that fit Underwoods, Smith-Coronas, and Royal portables; German typewriters usually use a type called DIN 2103 which has a larger central hole. Olivetti spools need to be held down with a particular kind of nut (type DIN 466 M3); you can find new ones online. Odd-size ribbons: try ribbons made for computer printers, printing calculators, time clocks, and cash registers.
How to re-ink a ribbon: “Once a ribbon has run out of ink, and the typewriter has wound it all up onto one spool, remove the ribbon from the typewriter. Get a bottle of STAMP-PAD INK, the same colour as the ribbon (this works best with single-colour ribbons). Keeping the ribbon wound up onto one spool, coat the outermost part of the ribbon with stamp-pad ink, and allow it to saturate through to the interior layers of ribbon, wound around the spool. You should really only have to do this rather sparingly. No more than 2-3 drops here and there. Let the ink soak into the ribbon, and then rethread the whole thing back into the typewriter. It’ll run like new 🙂 A bottle of stamp-pad ink is like $5, and one little bottle will last you for many re-inkings. Stamp-pad ink is ideal, because like typewriter ink, it doesn’t readily dry out in open air, so that means the ribbon won’t dry out overnight, but will stay moist…well…until it runs out of ink again!” –Shahan Cheong
It may be worthwhile to treat a ribbon that still has ink, but has dried out, by spraying it with WD-40. Lay it out yard by yard / meter by meter and spray lightly and quickly. (Reminder: do not use WD-40 to lubricate the typewriter itself.)
use WD-40 to lubricate the typewriter itself.) Ink rollers for Blickensderfers and other ink-roller machines: one solution is to get rollers made for printing calculators, which can be procured at a good office supply shop. You’ll have to cut them out of their plastic housing, and the price is a little steep ($3 or $4 for one roller — the original Blickensderfer price was 25 cents a dozen!). Your fingers will get filthy. Another solution, more durable and much less expensive, but not always easy to find, is gun cleaning felts made by a company such as VFG; get them in 7mm or 7.5mm size. They can be inked with stamp ink from manufacturers such as ExcelMark or Trodat.
for Blickensderfers and other ink-roller machines: one solution is to get rollers made for printing calculators, which can be procured at a good office supply shop. You’ll have to cut them out of their plastic housing, and the price is a little steep ($3 or $4 for one roller — the original Blickensderfer price was 25 cents a dozen!). Your fingers will get filthy. Another solution, more durable and much less expensive, but not always easy to find, is gun cleaning felts made by a company such as VFG; get them in 7mm or 7.5mm size. They can be inked with stamp ink from manufacturers such as ExcelMark or Trodat. Ink pads for machines like the Williams: don’t replace an ink pad unless you really want to use the machine, as in the long run the chemicals in the ink might corrode the type. A piece of black felt cut to the right size will look very nice. If you do want to try inking, you can try using stamp ink (see just above) but I don’t know what kind of material will best hold the ink without drying out.
for machines like the Williams: don’t replace an ink pad unless you really want to use the machine, as in the long run the chemicals in the ink might corrode the type. A piece of black felt cut to the right size will look very nice. If you do want to try inking, you can try using stamp ink (see just above) but I don’t know what kind of material will best hold the ink without drying out. Hammonds originally came with a rubberized cloth impression strip that came between the hammer and the paper. It is usually missing or broken, but it is necessary in order to get good typing. Paul Robert recommends: “If there is a bicycle shop in your area, go there and buy one of those narrow rubber protection strips that go around the wheel to protect the inner tube from being punctured by the spokes. Cut off a piece one half inch shorter than the full length of the carriage, punch two holes on each side and you have the perfect impression strip.”
originally came with a rubberized cloth impression strip that came between the hammer and the paper. It is usually missing or broken, but it is necessary in order to get good typing. Paul Robert recommends: “If there is a bicycle shop in your area, go there and buy one of those narrow rubber protection strips that go around the wheel to protect the inner tube from being punctured by the spokes. Cut off a piece one half inch shorter than the full length of the carriage, punch two holes on each side and you have the perfect impression strip.” To make sure your types will print clearly, you’ll probably need to clean out the crevices of letters like “e” and “s.” Use the tip of a pin. Be gentle, so you won’t harm the type.
For heavy-duty type cleaning, try Fedron (see above under “Initial Cleanup”) or denatured alcohol (don’t get it on paint).
Old products such as Star Type Cleaner were intended to fit into the type and lift out some ink. For a modern replacement, Matthieu Théorêt reports: “the Staedtler art eraser is malleable enough and lifts the old caked ink like a charm.” Elaine Hadden Golladay recommends Dap BlueStik (a reusable adhesive putty).
Alignment may be a big problem in an old typewriter. The typebars may stick at the printing point, because they’re too far to the right or left. The Oliver may produce especially wacky-looking work because of the nature of its typebars. The only solution is to bend the typebars back into position, using guesswork and experimentation and care. If you’re lucky, you can find some specialized tools for gently bending typebars; otherwise, try needle-nosed pliers.
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