Variegated Monstera Cutting Uk? The 13 New Answer

Imagine watering your monstera plant. Suddenly you notice a section of the leaf that is an oddly different color. What is that little white line on my Monstera Deliciosa? Could it be a variation?

A variegated Monstera can be recognized by its marble-like textures on its leaves, vines, and stems. This variegation often varies in color from creamy white (Albo), yellow (Aurea) to green (Sport). Unfortunately, it is very easy to confuse a mosaic virus with variegation.

In this article I will help you to accurately identify the different varieties of Monstera Variegata and assess the value of the plant.

Let’s start!

What causes variegation in Monstera?

There are three possible causes of the variegation of Monstera plants:

Natural mutation

Genetic mutations, also known as chimeric variegation, can cause chloroplast defects in leaves, resulting in the leaves failing to produce chlorophyll.

Chlorophyll is the green pigment that allows leaves to produce energy for growth through photosynthesis.

So, the lack of chlorophyll in part of a plant’s leaves results in that area being a solid white color.

You should know that the chromaticity caused by natural mutation is not stable and may turn green again. Once you lose chroma, new leaves have no chroma either.

tissue culture

Tissue culture is a forced variegation technique performed in laboratories to intentionally cause the Monstera cuttings to lack chlorophyll.

This technique permanently damages the plant’s genetic cells, causing the variegation to become stable. Your Monstera will not lose color over time.

mosaic virus

Mosaic virus also causes white, yellow, or green discoloration on leaves. As a result, Mosaic Viruses in Monstera are often confused with motley.

Mosaic virus on Monstera adansonii. Photo credit to SNG68

However, this is a rare plant disease that will kill your monstera and spread to other plants.

Unfortunately, the mosaic virus is not treatable. When your Monstera is infected, you must remove and destroy the plant. Do not compost them as this may allow the virus to remain viable.

Pattern on Monstera Variegation

There are two types of chromaticity patterns in Monstera:

sectoral pattern

Sectoral variegation has large patches of creamy-white color, and sometimes one leaf can become entirely white.

marble pattern

Marble-colored specimens have evenly distributed light and dark spots on the surface of the leaves.

Types of variation colors

I bet you know the cream colored monstera variety as it is the most shared species on social media.

However, there are actually three different colors of variegation found in Monstera:

– Sport (light green colorway)

– Aurea (Yellow Variegation)

– Albo (white or cream variegation)

Depending on the color of the variegation, each is referred to by a different name.

For example, if you happened to have a white and variegated Monstera Deliciosa, you would name it Monstera Deliciosa Albo. But if it’s yellow variegated, you know what you have is called a Monstera Deliciosa Aurea.

Popular varieties of Variegated Monstera

Here are some of the most popular Monstera Variegata available online:

Monstera Albo Borsigiana

Although some argue that Monstera Deliciosa is different from Borsigiana, they are actually the same species.

Thanks to Instagram, Monstera Albo Borsigiana has become one of the most popular Monstera Variegata.

The variegation of M. Albo Borsigiana is caused by natural mutation and is manifested as large white spots on the leaves. These spots are unstable and can turn green again.

A single Monstera Albo Borsigiana cutting is worth around $250, while a rooted plant can cost anywhere from $400 to $1,000 depending on the number of leaves.

Monstera Thai constellation

This popular houseplant has undergone artificial mutation and is a product of plant tissue culture in a laboratory in Thailand.

It has a beautiful variation of sector and marble patterns, making it one of the most desirable plants. As a tissue culture plant, variegation is very stable and is inherited by new leaves as they grow.

I’ve never seen Thai Constellation sold as a cutting, but a rooted Monstera Thai Constellation can cost anywhere from $250-$350.

Monstera Deliciosa Aurea

Monstera Deliciosa Aurea, also known as Monstera Marmorata, has a yellowish variegation that resembles the appearance of a golden pothos.

Its sectoral pattern variegation is also unstable and requires proper care to preserve. If you find leaves have turned green, cut them off immediately to preserve variegation.

The Aurea variety of Monstera Deliciosa is extremely rare, which is reflected in its high price. A rooted plant costs between $2,000 and $3,000!

Is it possible for normal monstera to evolve variegation?

Although uncommon, normal monstera can develop variegation over time. A friend of mine got lucky when one of his Monstera Deliciosa cuttings started showing albo variegation.

The chance of randomly evolving a colorful Monstera is only about 1 in 100,000. This means that in order to get a colorful Monstera, you would have to multiply 100,000 cuttings and hope that one of the cuttings would turn out colorful.

Now do you understand why Monstera variegata can often be extremely expensive?

I am obsessed with colorful plants and a collector for sure. My current favorite because of the colorful pearl necklace. I had a few questions about variegated plants as some strains like Variegated Monstera come at monster prices. This is where my research led me:

Q. Why are some plants colorful?

A. Variations in leaf color occur due to a lack of the green pigment chlorophyll in some plant cells. It is usually the result of a cell mutation.

Q. Can I propagate a variegated plant?

A. Plant variegation can be inherited (genetic) or accidental (chimeric). With genetic predisposition, the color change is stable, that is, if you propagate a green shoot of a plant with colored leaves or sow its seeds, the coloring will appear again in the new plant.

Q. Why does the chroma sometimes return?

A. Variegated plants can turn green or turn green again for a number of reasons. It can be a reaction to extreme heat and cold, or a reaction to low light levels. Some say it could also be caused as a survival technique as the plant is stronger when it has more chlorophyll. When this happens, it’s best to prune the affected leaves because if you don’t, the plain green can actually take over the plant because it has more chlorophyll and vigor than the variegated foliage.

Q. Can I make a colorful plant out of a normal plant?

A. Variegation is not easy to induce and cannot be done at home. Get a cutting of a colorful plant from a friend or pass yours on to keep the love of colorful plants going.

Congratulations on your Albo Monstera! It is a beautiful plant and taking care of Monstera deliciosa albo variegata is not too difficult. Learn where the plant came from, how to tell it apart from the Thai constellation Monstera, how to propagate it and how to help it thrive!

Monstera deliciosa albo variegata Care & Propagation

Today I’m sharing a plant I can’t believe I’ve finally acquired – the ultra trendy and elusive Monstera Albo Borsigiana, also known as Monstera Deliciosa Albo Variegata or simply Albo Monstera.

That’s right, this girl has an alb! I decided I wanted to sit on this post for a while before posting it to make sure I didn’t kill it lol. The Albo Monstera is a species of variegated Monstera Deliciosa plant, similar to the Thai constellation Monstera.

You can check out my post about my Thai constellation monstera plants, but this post is about the albo! (Although I’ll go through some of the similarities and differences to help you determine which plant is right for you.)

Monstera genus background

First, let’s go through Monstera as a genus. This particular genus has 45 species of flowering plants, including many you’ve probably heard of: Monstera Peru and Monstera Siltepecana are two types of Monstera plants commonly grown as houseplants.

In general, Monstera plants are evergreen vines that can grow MASSIVE in nature. They grow up and climb trees, holding on to the trunks with aerial roots. The leaves may be fenestrated (aka split) and have holes.

These windows increase the plants’ exposure to sunlight, but allow more light through the upper leaves, allowing the plant to use less energy to grow. As houseplants, Monsteras stay much smaller, but they can still grow to impressive sizes! Here is my Monstera Deliciosa…

My Monstera Deliciosa

So… what is a Monstera deliciosa albo variegata?

A Monstera deliciosa albo variegata is a variegated version of Monstera deliciosa. The Albo came from a natural mutation of the plant, which was then propagated and reproduced. This means every hand on a Monstera Albo is different and you don’t know what you’re getting until the hand opens.

The leaves are generally a combination of medium jade green and white. Leaves can be almost entirely white, or simply have some white spots, patterns, or blocks. Or leaves can be “crescent”, where exactly one half of the leaf is green and one is white.

What is variegation?

Kind of cool, isn’t it? But to fully understand the care of Monstera deliciosa albo variegata, you need to understand variegation. This is what makes this plant so expensive, so rare and so picky.

Variegation can occur in many different types of plants, and you can tell a variegated plant by having lighter spots, mottling, streaks, or mottling on the leaves. This variegation can be of different colors, but for the albo it is white.

These spots on the leaves of the plant are a lack of chlorophyll. But while this lack of chlorophyll may look nice, it actually makes the plant a bit more difficult to care for.

This is because plants need chlorophyll for photosynthesis. Think of it this way: the green parts of the leaves contain the good stuff that helps the plant grow, while the white or colored parts don’t contribute anything to the plant’s growth. They just look good 🙂

What does that mean? This means the plants will grow slower and will likely need more light. So this is one thing that makes taking care of Monstera deliciosa albo variegata a bit more difficult.

Variegated Hoya Carnosa Krimson Queen which has a similar problem as the Albo – the all white leaves are beautiful but add nothing

Is variegation stable in Albo Monstera plants?

no And that’s a real crap. Because the variegation is the result of a naturally occurring mutation, it is not stable. This means the leaves can turn all green again… which almost all Albo Monstera owners fear!

How do I keep my Monstera deliciosa albo variegata colorful?

But don’t worry, there are some things you can do to keep the great variety plant healthy. If your plant gets a completely green or almost green leaf, you should cut it off. I know! That would be painful.

But pruning will hopefully help stop this pattern from continuing. I had to do this with my Philodendron Birkin – another plant with an unstable variegation – and it worked like a charm.

The same applies to completely white sheets. They’re incredibly stunning – and you SHOULD take 1,000 pictures of a completely white sheet if you can get one – but you’ll also have to crop them. This is because they have no chlorophyll and contribute nothing to the plant.

They actually keep the plant from having healthy new growth because the plant was struggling to maintain that dead leaf. If you don’t cut the leaf, it will likely die off on its own. Or they turn coarse brown and slowly die.

Why are Albo Monstera plants so expensive?

Mostly because of growth and variegation. As they are slow growers, this keeps the number of plants available lower. They’re also just plain trendy, so that certainly helps a lot!

I expect that while the prices of other colorful Monsteras will fall in the years to come (like Thai Constellation Monsteras), Albo Monsteras prices will likely remain fairly stable. If the demand for them doesn’t fall, the price will likely fall as well.

What are the differences between an Albo Variegata and a Thai Constellation Monstera?

As I mentioned earlier, Albo Monsteras are the result of cultivating plants from a random, natural mutation. This means that the plant cannot be grown from one seed and the variegation is unpredictable and unstable.

Every albo monstera you encounter is propagated by generations of albos, all descended from one mother plant. Mother Albo! She must be so proud.

The Thai constellation Monstera also cannot be grown from a seed. That’s because it was developed in a laboratory in Thailand. So the variegation on a Thai is not natural and therefore much more stable. Basically, don’t worry about your Thai variegation coming back!

The variegation on the plants can look very similar, especially on young leaves. For example, both plants have leaves with a jade green base. However, the chroma on an albo is marbled or blocky. It’s also almost white – if not pure white.

However, the Thai constellation variegation is more off-white and the patterns look more like speckles and splashes. But it is possible for Thais to kick out a crescent moon leaf where one half is green and the other is cream.

Overall, the plants are quite similar. Both are slow growing due to the variegation and both are expensive. You’ll likely pay more for an Albo monstera, as Costa Farms is working to start mass-producing Thai constellation monsters in 2023.

Also keep in mind the less stable chromaticity of an Albo monstera, which means you have to be careful of losing their chromaticity.

How much does an Albo Monstera cost?

In the interest of transparency, I paid $150 for mine from a local seller at a small plant show. It was listed for $175 and she gave me a $25 rebate at the end of the day. The roots were phenomenal and the single leaf it had was beautiful!

My plant is a mid cut which means it has an active growing point but nothing has come out yet. It’s just the single sheet until that happens. You can get an Albo that has a top cut, meaning a new full-size sheet is on the way.

But you will pay. The same lovely seller had some GORGEOUS top cut multi bladed Albo Monsteras for over $400. Unfortunately that’s more than I can pay for a plant right now…but I’m so jealous of whoever got them.

Prices on Etsy range from $50 to $150 for a single knot. Yes, just a trunk cut with a knot on it! For cuttings, it depends on whether they are rooted or not, but it can range from a few to several hundred.

If you don’t have options locally, I have purchased several plants from Etsy and have been very happy with all of them. However, I recommend checking local Facebook groups before buying online.

I’ve seen some cuttings and knots in my local plant groups for reasonable prices. Then you don’t have to worry about shipping either, which is a great relief!

How much light does a Monstera deliciosa albo variegata need?

I feel like I’m overthinking this point way too much, but the white spots in the leaves of the Albo Monstera mean that these spots are not helping the plant grow. Therefore the green parts have to work in overdrive.

This means that this is not a low light plant. She needs plenty of bright, indirect light to thrive. I currently have mine in my Ikea greenhouse cabinet under LED grow lights that stay on for about 12 hours a day. (See my guide to using grow lights with houseplants for more information.)

Albos also does well in front of a sunny window – just be careful not to burn the leaves. Too much direct sunlight will definitely burn the leaves. I burned leaves on my Monstera Deliciosa and it’s super sad 🙁

How often do you water Monstera Albo?

Put down the watering can! Albo monstera plants are extremely susceptible to root rot. Root rot occurs when the plant becomes overwatered and the roots suffocate. I only water my two colorful monsteras when the soil is almost completely dry.

I’ve seen others recommend watering when the top inches of soil are drying out, but I tend to err on the drier side. Monitor your plant and see how it is behaving.

Monstera deliciosa albo variegata care and soil

Water is one part to prevent root rot while soil is the other. Monsteras in general, but especially albino monsteras, like light, well-drained soil. Mine grows in moss but was ready for soil.

To plant it I mixed up some good quality indoor potting soil that was pre-mixed with additives to encourage good drainage. Then I added another handful of coco coir (similar to peat moss) and coarse perlite. (Read more about soil additives in my post 101 for houseplant soil.)

These additives help promote airflow to the roots and facilitate good drainage. This way when I water my plant I can let all the water flow through the soil and the excess water drains away immediately. Give this plant only what it needs – no more!

fertilizer, temperature and humidity

I’ll be honest, I don’t really fertilize my plants. I may give this slow growing strain some boost next spring, but generally I just rely on the fertilizer pre-mixed in quality potting soil.

I also like to mix in organic worm droppings (worm droppings), which are super nutrient dense. Plants love this and there is no risk of overfeeding the plant to burn it. I usually just throw in a spoonful or two depending on the size of the plant.

Albos enjoy warm, wet conditions as they are tropical plants. They are NOT hardy. They do well in a wide range of household temperatures and humidity levels, but benefit from additional humidity.

I have my plant next to my little Thai constellation in the Ikea greenhouse cabinet with a small moisture meter. Humidity always stays slightly higher due to ambient humidity and wet LECA spreads.

You can also place a humidifier right next to your plant to reduce the humidity in the air. Especially in winter when it is so dry in many houses! And speaking of winter, expect growth to slow even further as outside temperatures drop and days get shorter.

Monstera deliciosa albo variegata growth pattern, transplanting and leaf size

If you give your Albo Monstera what it needs to be happy, you will eventually see new growth. And this is the happiest day ever! I remember when the first leaf of my Thai constellation plant unfolded. I think I took about 100 pictures of it.

One thing to know about Albos is that their leaves stay a bit smaller than non-variegated Deliciosa leaves. And they stay much smaller than Thai leaves, which grow HUGE! Albo leaves grow to a maximum size of about a foot in width.

Compared to Monstera Deliciosa and Thai Constellation Monstera plants, Albo Monsteras also have more of a draping, trailing growth pattern. This is because the spacing between Albo Monstera leaves is longer.

Because of this, they really benefit from having some sort of structure to climb on like a moss stick. Also check out my DIY jute pole tutorial using rope and PVC pipe for a good moss pole alternative.

Your Albo Monstera probably won’t need repotting for a while. She is slow growing and doesn’t like drowning in too much soil. If you see roots sticking out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot, it’s probably time to increase the size a few inches!

Common problems with colorful monsters

No houseplant is without problems. Here are some of the most common colorful monstera problems you might encounter and how to address them.

1. Yellowing leaves

If your Albo Monstera is developing yellow leaves, it is likely due to overwatering or root rot. Make sure you let the soil mostly dry out before watering again. Also, check that your soil is light, airy and has good drainage.

2. Leaves brown

If your Monstera’s leaves are brown on the tips, it’s probably due to underwatering or lack of moisture. If the leaves have brown spots, it could be sunburn.

3. Fixed Leaves

When a leaf loses variegation and becomes all green or all white, you need to cut it off. This will help encourage new growth to have variegation.

4. Spider mites

If you notice dying annual leaves and fine webs on them, you probably have spider mites. Use an over-the-counter insecticide spray and avoid conditions that are too hot and dry. Spider mites love this!

How to propagate an albo monstera plant

There are several ways to propagate an albo monstera plant. Chances are you’ll be propagating one too, since it’s much easier to get your hands on a cutting than a full plant. (And full plants are EXPENSIVE.)

This will ensure you get a good Monstera deliciosa albo variegata cutting

If you’re buying your pattern online, make sure you see lots of pictures. Even if a leaf is beautiful, it won’t grow without a knot – so make sure it has at least one knot. An aerial root is even better!

Check the stem and node area for saturation. True variegated monsteras (including Thai constellations) have variegated stems. Not just leaves. If the stalks are green, run far away.

I would also ask if the seller knows where on the plant the cutting came from. The general rule of thumb is the higher the plant stems, the better it is. However, my Albo Monstera cutting was a mid cut, meaning it was not cut from the top of the plant.

As I mentioned before, the top cut plants were just too expensive, so I went for a medium one. However, its stem has a great variegation and the roots looked very nice!

If you are purchasing a “wet stick” or leafless stem pruning, look closely at the knot and stem variegation. This is the only way you can estimate how the plant will grow since it has no leaves.

Method #1: Rooting an Albo monstera cutting in water

Rooting a Monstera Albo cutting is very similar to rooting a regular Monstera deliciosa cutting. Once you have a good cutting, you need to decide what medium to use to root the cutting.

You can choose to water root your Albo Monstera cutting, and many do. If you choose this method, wait for the main roots to branch into smaller roots several inches long. The better the roots, the more likely your Albo will survive moving into the ground.

To encourage successful water propagation I recommend using filtered water with either rooting hormone or something like some SuperThrive to encourage faster and stronger root development. Store in a warm, bright place.

However, I personally do not recommend water roots for plants that I am scared to death of losing. That’s because the water-to-ground shock can be tricky.

Method #2: Rooting an Albo monstera cutting in peat moss

Instead, I recommend using a mixture of peat moss and perlite. Occasionally I also add some organic worm droppings for nutrients – and rooting hormones too!

I love peat moss because it encourages strong root development. And there is less shock when transplanting into soil. When I bought my cutting it was already in peat moss.

Keep the moss mixture moist but not wet – and keep the humidity high. I have mine in my Ikea greenhouse cabinet where the ambient humidity is slightly higher.

Once the roots are nice and long you can transplant the cutting into soil as I described in the water rooting process. Water the soil as usual, using really well-drained, nutrient-rich soil. Don’t overwater! Eventually you will start noticing new growth, but remember, it takes a while.

Method #3: Root a wet Albo Monstera stick in the moss

If all you can get your hands on is a small piece of stick with a knot – often referred to as a “wet stick” – don’t worry – you can handle it! You can propagate this in a plant. I really wanted to try this!

To root your wet stick, place peat moss and perlite in a small container. Keep the moss moist but not wet. Insert the wet stick into the moss, knot side down. And hold a clear plastic bag over it to maintain humidity.

You can also try using a DIY plant propagation box instead of a plastic bag. I love this method because you can throw a few cuttings in a tiny makeshift greenhouse.

Eventually, your plant will root and sprout new growth. I would keep it in moss until a full new leaf unfolds, then transfer to a small pot of soil.

This is how you avoid stem rot when propagating an Albo

To avoid stem rot when propagating an Albo Monstera, make sure you don’t bury the cutting too deep and make sure the soil isn’t too wet. Albos are prone to rot, which is another reason the water spread scares me!

Be sure to remove the moisture cover you are using to ensure the cutting has some airflow. And above all… good luck! This isn’t the easiest plant to grow, but with these tips, the odds will be in your favor!

Albo update – chop off my first baby from my alb!

I’m updating this post by adding a few pictures to show the first baby my albo produced! Once the plant had two leaves, I took the mother and baby out of the pot and carefully removed the soil. Then I removed the baby with a clean knife and potted it separately.

As you can see from the pictures below, Mom was pretty rooted too. So she was due for a pot and some fresh soil for spring. We hope to have another baby soon! 🙂

Pin my monstera deliciosa albo variegata care instructions!

Let’s procreate! One of the best parts about growing Monstera Deliciosa is propagating it, using part of a parent plant to create a whole new baby plant! Cutting your Monstera can feel scary, but the reward is worth it. Today we will cover how to take a cutting from your own mother plant and how to start creating roots and new leaves. For advice on buying a cutting for propagation, keep an eye out for our comprehensive Monstera Buying Guide, available soon.

Would you like to use what we use for our Monstera plants? Check out our Monstera grooming product recommendations available to buy on Amazon.

Want your knot or cutting to root or leaf faster? Skip to learn how:

you have no roots Learn more about the rooting hormone. Read this.

Do you want existing roots to grow faster? Learn more about water fertilizers. Read this.

Have roots and wait for a new leaf? Learn more about clone paste. Read this.

Where to prune your monstera for propagation

The number one rule for propagating monsteras is that you always need a knot! You can’t propagate a Monstera without a knot. Understanding the parts of a Monstera Deliciosa plant can help you propagate successfully.

Anatomy of Monstera Deliciosa for reproduction

To begin with, knots are the ridges around the trunk of the Monstera. Each petiole (the long green stalk that holds the leaf) grows out of a node. There is usually one node for each leaf, but there may be a few extra if the plant has broken off or lost a leaf, or a new stem has grown from a previous cut.

Monstera anatomy

Nodes are the place in the plant where new branches can start. Just above each node is an axillary bud, the dormant shoot of a new stalk waiting to be awakened by a pruning. The axillary bud may be visible as a round, pointed bump of the same color as the stalk, or it may be within the stalk. Sometimes the bud is obscured by the empty sheaf leaving a leaf behind.

The internode is the part of the main stem between the nodes. In order to get a knot in your cutting, you need to cut the plant on the main shoot at the internode, not the petiole or leaf. If you cut only one leaf, it will not contain a knot.

You may also see some aerial roots growing from your Monstera’s stem. Aerial roots begin as a white nub breaking through the stem and grow into a long brown flexible root. Sometimes they develop a papery or bark-like covering.

Monsteras use aerial roots to cling to trees and climb in the wild. When they touch the ground, they can start growing into normal roots; however, they are not intrinsically the same as ground roots and cannot support a plant.

Other Monstera strains, such as Monstera Adansonii, have very similar anatomies to Monstera Deliciosa. Knowledge of one can be used to spread the other in the same way!

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We have put together a propagation guide for all plants! Check out plant propagation accessories for every houseplant!

stages of propagation

Unrooted cut

A freshly cut piece of a Monstera is called a cutting. When you start propagating, your cutting will not have underground roots, although it may have aerial roots. A cutting with aerial roots is not “rooted” because aerial roots cannot nourish the plant.

Important note: while your Monstera cutting is left unrooted, it will slowly die off, just like cut flowers die in a vase. Until it takes root, the plant is missing an important part of the photosynthesis equation: water. Without an external water source, your plant cannot feed itself for long and will eventually turn yellow. Creepy, right?

In order for your Monstera Deliciosa to survive the propagation, you need to focus on growing roots. Roots are priority #1!

Rooted Cut

Once a full set of roots has grown, the cutting is considered rooted. The first to grow is a single white fuzzy root emerging from the stem or an existing aerial root. The fluffy root hairs absorb moisture for your plant. Once this root grows long enough, it will start producing small feeding roots that will come out the sides.

Established cut

When the main and feed roots grow several inches long, the cutting is ready to be transplanted into the final medium! The cutting will become established once the roots have become accustomed to their new home and begin to grow again.

Note that transferring from growing medium to soil may cause some roots to die off! I’ve heard some people use a rule of thumb like “expect 1/3 of the roots to die in the transition”.

The exact number depends on how much you disturb the roots when planting and how similar you keep moisture levels. Before planting, make sure your cutting has enough roots to support itself, even if it loses a few.

new plant

Your Monstera is finally starting to produce new leaves! This can happen before the cutting has become established in its final medium if you allow it to root for a long time. When your cutting starts producing new growth, it will get enough water to be a happy, thriving plant again!

When to propagate your Monstera

You can multiply your Monstera at any time! As long as the plant is actively growing, it can be safely propagated. During the winter, you may need additional lighting to keep your plants growing. In the worst case, your cuttings will take longer to grow in winter. Check out our full Monstera light conditions guide for more information.

Choose what type of Monstera cut you want to make

Next you need to decide what kind of cut you want to take.

Monstera propagation cuttings

Top Cutting – A top cutting is the simplest and requires only one cut. By separating the top of the stem from the underside and cutting at the internode, you’re removing the plant’s terminal bud, the growth point at the top of the stem. You can see this growth point as a pointed bump forming on the petiole of the newest leaf. Top cuttings are the best type of cut because they regrow the fastest and the new leaves don’t lose much maturity.

– A top cut is the simplest and requires only one cut. By separating the top of the stem from the underside and cutting at the internode, you’re removing the plant’s terminal bud, the growth point at the top of the stem. You can see this growth point as a pointed bump forming on the petiole of the newest leaf. Top cuttings are the best type of cut because they regrow the fastest and the new leaves don’t lose much maturity. Center Cut – Once you’ve removed the top cut, you can separate more cuttings from the center of the stem. Each middle cut requires two cuts, one on top and one on the bottom. A center pruning begins the growth of a new stem from the axillary bud of its node, so it starts over in terms of leaf size and maturity.

– Once you have removed the top cutting, you can take more cuttings from the middle of the stem. Each middle cut requires two cuts, one on top and one on the bottom. A center pruning begins the growth of a new stem from the axillary bud of its node, so it starts over in terms of leaf size and maturity. Stem cut – Also known as a node, wet stick, or chonk, a stem cut contains only nodes and no leaves. Propagating a Monstera Deliciosa without leaves is possible, it just takes longer to photosynthesize without leaves.

What is the best size of Monstera Deliciosa cuttings for propagation?

My ideal cutting would have 2-3 leaves, which also means 2-3 nodes. Here are the reasons:

A cutting with more leaves can produce more energy once it is rooted and has access to water again. This will speed up the growth of the first new leaf or activation of the axillary bud, if applicable. You have more room for error. If you experience rot and lose a node, you still have a chance for your cutting to grow. Your cutting will look like a complete plant sooner. Single leaf cuttings can look really awkward in a pot until they produce new leaves. A larger cutting is more likely to contain an aerial root. With a top cut, the newest knot is usually immature and may not yet have an aerial root. Including some lower nodes that already have aerial roots will help your root pruning go faster.

If you want to split your cutting into individual nodes to maximize the number of plants, for example a variegated Monstera, I recommend waiting until all nodes have their own roots. You can then split them up later with less risk.

Why 3 sheets and not more?

You may remember that in the post on getting your monstera to crack its leaves, I mentioned that all green, healthy leaves on the plant will help it grow. In that case, why wouldn’t you want a cutting with the maximum number of leaves possible?

The difference is that with an unrooted cutting you need to balance energy production and consumption. Without water from the roots, a cutting with many leaves may expend more energy maintaining them than it can produce. When this happens, the leaves turn yellow and die off one by one until equilibrium is reached. This is especially true for adult cuttings with very large leaves. I learned that lesson the hard way with a gigantic mature cut.

Need an aerial root?

Aerial roots are not necessary for a cutting to root, but they are useful. You will make the unrooted phase much shorter and reduce the risk to your plant.

If your cutting has aerial roots, do not cut them off, even if they have an awkward shape. Only cut off broken, mushy, or black aerial roots. If the aerial root is a thin, light-colored string whose outer covering falls off, then it has rotted and should also be cut off.

If you have a cutting without aerial roots, the new root will emerge from the stem. Look for a white, crystal-like bump during propagation. This indicates roots are on the way.

Propagation of Monstera Deliciosa leaves

Can you propagate a monstera leaf? Without a node and axillary bud, you can root a monstera leaf but never produce a new plant. Leaves can last for a long time if kept in water, so you can use them as decorations when needed.

How long does it take for a Monstera Deliciosa to reproduce?

The time it takes for a monstera to propagate depends on the health of the pruning and propagating method. It usually takes a few months.

Here are some anecdotal examples of times until the first new leaf unfolds:

Top cutting with aerial root: 1.5 months

Medium pruning with aerial root: 3 months

Cutting knots with aerial roots: 4 months

To learn more about planting your Monstera cutting, read our guide.

Which propagation method to use for your Monstera cuttings

There are countless ways to successfully propagate your Monstera Deliciosa into a new plant! All methods can work, but each has advantages and disadvantages.

When choosing a method to propagate your Monstera Deliciosa, consider the things your cutting will need to establish roots and avoid rotting:

Humidity keeps your rootless plant alive and encourages root growth. Keep aerial roots constantly moist. High humidity around the plant limits water loss. Airflow is important in a high humidity environment to maintain oxygen around the roots and prevent root rot.

To avoid stem rot, keep the cut ends of the stem as dry as possible. The best way to do this is to suspend them outside of the propagation medium.

Many people overcompensate to avoid rot and allow their roots to become too dry during propagation. Dry plant = dead, dehydrated tissue = more rot.

Until your cutting develops roots, you do not need to add any nutrients to the water you use to moisten your propagation medium as it cannot absorb them. Once the roots start growing, you can add nutrients to help them grow faster. I use a few drops of Liqui-Dirt added to the water.

Liqui-Dirt Nano-Powder All-Purpose Organic Indoor/Outdoor Plant Food (Makes 50+ Gallons) 18 Balanced Superfoods – Balanced blend of vitamins, minerals, micro-fungi and bio-organisms

You can read our complete guide to fertilizers here.

air layers

Air layering means that your plant’s aerial roots grow into ground roots before cutting. This can be done with bundles of moss wrapped around aerial roots, leading aerial roots in moss on a pole, or placing aerial roots in an additional container of soil or water.

Air layering is the best method of propagation as it allows your cutting to establish roots while still attached to the mother plant. This will remove the unrooted propagation phase, giving your cutting the best possible chance of success.

I use this method as often as possible.

Advantages: Very low risk of rotting. Roots grow faster because pruning can use the energy of the entire plant. Very low chance of leaf or node loss from cuttings.

Cons: Doesn’t work for top cuttings that don’t have aerial roots yet. Will not work for existing rootless cuttings or sanitizing an entire rootless plant. Makes your mother plant look silly during the process.

multiplication in water

Water is the easiest way to propagate your Monstera Deliciosa! Fill a jar or pitcher with water, place the cutting in, and replace the water every few days. To reduce the risk of stem rot, try to keep only the aerial roots in the water and hang the stem out of the water. An aquarium air stone can be added to increase the oxygen content of the water.

I use this method for healthy, low risk cuttings. Learn more about fertilization during water propagation.

Pros: Can use a clear container to see rooting and check cutting for rot. Prevents your cutting from drying out. Maintaining constant moisture around the roots is very easy. No organic matter in the medium to introduce disease. No damage to roots when removed from water. Roots grow fast.

Cons: No airflow around the roots. The only source of oxygen is what is dissolved in the water. It is more difficult to transfer roots that have grown in water to the ground. It’s hard to keep the stem out of the water.

We use this hanging propagation station to decorate our home and tidy up the counter near our bright kitchen window. Remember the tube size is best for small Monstera Deliciosa cuttings or all Monstera Adansonii cuttings. Click on the image or link to see the current Amazon price.

multiplication in soil

Many commercial nurseries that need to produce new plants efficiently simply plant their cuttings directly into the soil. This method can work, especially with a fresh, healthy cutting, but has the most disadvantages of all the methods. Check out our soil mix guide for our recipe.

I use this method for air layering with plants that grow horizontally instead of climbing.

Pros: No transplanting required. Plants can benefit from nutrients in the soil.

Disadvantages: It is difficult to maintain constant humidity. Can’t check for rooting or see rot. Soil can become anaerobic if overwatered. Organic medium can introduce fungi or disease.

Propagation in moss

They can also reproduce in peat moss instead of soil. Moist moss holds a lot of water, which is great for maintaining moisture around the roots while allowing air circulation. A cover, such as cling film, can be used to keep moisture in the container.

This method can give great results, but is difficult to do correctly. People often have problems caused by moss that is too wet or too dry.

I use this method for Air Layering.

Pros: Maintains high humidity and humidity without liquid water. Lightweight and easy to form roots. It’s easier to keep the stem out of the medium. Roots go into the soil more easily.

Cons: Can easily become too compact. It is difficult to maintain constant humidity. Can’t check for rooting or see rot. Harmful and time consuming to remove from the roots. Organic medium can introduce fungi or disease.

propagation in perlite

Perlite has very similar benefits to water, with the addition of greater airflow. Perlite is absorbent and porous, allowing moisture to wick to areas of the container that are not submerged. Keep the container filled with a small reservoir of water below stem height and cover the top to keep moisture around the roots.

You can use any chunky, inorganic material like pumice or LECA for this method if you don’t have perlite. I prefer perlite because it’s so light; It’s easy to pull out the snippet to check it out without disturbing it too much. However, heavier media will help the cutting stand up better.

Make sure you select a coarse perlite (#3 or larger to minimize dust) with no fertilizer. I recommend this perlite:

#3 Mother Earth Perlite, covers 4 cu. ft., large and coarse, average size 1/2 inch, for hydroponic use, neutral pH

I use this method for high risk dehydrated cuttings.

Pros: It’s easy to maintain constant moisture around the roots. No organic matter in the medium to introduce fungi or disease. Minimal damage to roots when removing perlite. Allows airflow to the roots.

Cons: Can’t check for rooting or see rot.

In the future we will create a detailed guide for each and every one of these methods, so stay tuned!

make the cut

Now it’s time to “chop and support”!

First find the spot where you are going to cut. Be sure to leave as much space as possible on either side of the knot. This provides space when you experience rot. Identify the position of the axillary bud above the knot and ensure it is included in the section.

Use clean, sharp scissors to trim your monstera. Cut the stem cleanly without causing crushing damage to keep the tissue healthy. I recommend these scissors:

Ultra Snip 6.7 inch secateurs with stainless steel blades

Once your cut is made, the top priority is to take root as soon as possible.

treat cut

Once you’ve chopped your cutting, you may notice the exposed tissue turn a reddish-brown color within a few minutes. Don’t worry; it only reacts to air, just like your blood turns red outside your body.

Now it’s time to add rooting hormone to the cut if you so desire. Monsteras naturally produce this hormone, which signals the plant to take root, but by adding it you can stimulate it to take root faster. Some rooting hormones also contain fungicides to prevent fungus or rot.

Rooting Hormone is available in powder and gel forms. I use Clonex gel because it works in both wet and dry media. Powder works best with dry media (like soil rather than water) because it washes away in a liquid.

HydroDynamics Clonex Rooting Gel 100ml

Place a small amount of hormone in a separate dip container to avoid contaminating the original container with plant material. Dip the cut end of the cutting in the hormone. If there is any left over in the dip tank, I mix it into the water I add to the propagation medium.

As it is exposed to the air, the end of the cutting will naturally become callous, creating a barrier that protects the plant from rot and infection.

Will my monstera leaves grow back?

If you’ve ever pruned your Monstera Deliciosa for propagation, have a broken stem, or simply snap off the new growth point on a developing leaf, don’t worry! A new growth point activates and creates a new tribe.

Monsteras have a trait called Apical Dominance, which simply means that a tribe has one active growth point at a time. If your Monstera is growing multiple new leaves at the same time, it likely has multiple plants together in the same pot.

If the dominant growth point is broken or removed, the monstera will naturally activate a dormant axillary bud. A new growth point will break through the side of the stem, eventually forming a new leaf.

Activation of the axillary bud

If your Monstera parent plant or center cutting isn’t growing new buds yet, you can try to help them out. It is important not to do this until the plant has rooted if it is a cutting!

Keiki paste, or clone paste, designed for use with orchids contains a hormone called cytokinin that promotes bud development. This is a different hormone than rooting hormone and it will not help with rooting! Put a small amount on the axillary bud to activate it.

I was skeptical about this product when I first tried it. On first use it encouraged a stubborn knot that had been doing nothing for months to sprout within a week. Anecdotally, this product has worked very well for me.

Southside Plants Keiki Cloning Paste – Natural Miracle Growth & Nutrition Formula for Orchid Plants Hormones & Vitamins – Instruction Booklet Included | 0.25 oz

Sometimes a cutting will form a new leaf before it forms roots. That’s not ideal, but there’s not much you can do about it once it happens. With a knot cut, the baby leaf will help improve photosynthesis.

Propagating Monstera Deliciosa from seed

Monstera Deliciosa can also be grown from seed! Monstera seeds come from the fruit of mature Monstera plants.

You can buy monstera seeds online if you want to try this method. You usually don’t have to put in any extra effort as Monstera are so easy to propagate from cuttings.

Variegated Monstera cannot be grown from seed. The mutation that causes the variegation cannot be transmitted from the parent through the fruit. The seeds of a brightly colored Monstera plant will produce green offspring unless one spontaneously mutates, but the chances are almost zero. This is the main reason why variegated monstera are rare; they can only be made by using a cutting from the mother plant.

Would you like to use what we use for our Monstera plants? Check out our Monstera grooming product recommendations available to buy on Amazon.

We’ve also put together a general propagation guide for all plants! Check out plant propagation accessories for every houseplant!

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Can reverted variegation come back?

Once a plant reverts back to green it is not possible to again reverse it back to variegated colorings. Variegated plants will have limited amounts of chlorophyll in their leaves because of the lack of green coloring. Less chlorophyll in a plant equals less energy, which is needed for photosynthesis.

The Elusive Variegated Monstera Deliciosa

How much do monstera cuttings sell for?

Monstera Dubia

Cuttings can sell for $36 and up on Etsy. Established plants sell on the same site for an average of $110, often much higher. These trusty plants can grow one to two feet per year and reach a height of up to 10 feet, especially if they’ve got room to climb.

The Elusive Variegated Monstera Deliciosa

How much can I sell monstera for?

A Monstera deliciosa plant can sell for anywhere from $5 to $5,000. There are several factors that affect costs, including a plant’s age, size, and color patterns.

The Elusive Variegated Monstera Deliciosa

How much is a monstera plant worth?

The cost of a leafy green house plant with splotches of white, the variegated monstera, has grown from about $60 per plant to up to $1,000, creating a speculative marketplace around the evergreen vine that is native to tropical regions of the Americas.

The Elusive Variegated Monstera Deliciosa

Will variegated monstera get cheaper?

Variegated Monstera plants are expensive for many different reasons, including the fact that they are rare and in high demand. Over time, as the hype about these plants dissolves, they may become a little cheaper, but because they are not common, they will probably remain expensive.

The Elusive Variegated Monstera Deliciosa

Watch Me Plant a Variegated Monstera Deliciosa Rooted Cutting!

Watch Me Plant a Variegated Monstera Deliciosa Rooted Cutting!

Watch Me Plant a Variegated Monstera Deliciosa Rooted Cutting!

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See some more details on the topic variegated monstera cutting uk here:

Variegated Monstera: Why Are They So Expensive?

Monsteras are already beautiful plants, and colorful specimens even more so. Unfortunately, they are rare and expensive.

Variegated Monstera plants are expensive due to their rarity. The marbled or crescent-shaped appearance is caused by a mutation in the plant’s chlorophyll formation. Depending on the size and color pattern of a Monstera, its price can range from $100 to a few thousand dollars.

Read on to learn more:

Also Read: Monstera Care 101 – Don’t Adopt Monstera Before Reading This Comprehensive Guide

What is variation?

Variegation refers to the naturally formed lighter spots on a plant’s leaves. Depending on the species of plant, these bright spots can be light green, yellowish or even white.

The lack of chlorophyll in the leaves is actually stressful for the Swiss cheese plant as the leaves don’t have as much surface area for photosynthesis. Because of this, variegated monsteras tend to grow much more slowly than their non-variegated counterparts.

There are two main types of variegation found in monsteras: marbling and sectoral.

Marbled leaves have light and dark spots fairly evenly distributed across the surface. Sectoral chroma is when there are large white spots on the sheet. A leaf can have both mottling and sectoral variegation at the same time.

Why are colorful monstera so expensive?

Colorful monsteras are so expensive because of their rarity and popularity. Due to the lack of chlorophyll in the leaves, it needs more light and grows more slowly. Slower growth means slower reproduction and fewer new plants.

Online marketplaces that sell colorful monstera sell out quickly, putting new potential customers on a waiting list when the mother monstera grows enough to produce more cuttings.

Prices are also increasing due to demand. Breeders have discovered that people pay a lot of money for a colorful Monstera. Even a two leaf baby cutting can sell for $100 and people will pay! As colorful monsteras become more popular and demand continues to rise, prices will continue to rise as well.

Monstera Albo Borsigiana vs Thai Constellation

There are two main types of variegated Monstera: Albo Borsigiana and Thai Constellation. At first glance they may look similar. They have some obvious differences that affect their care, growth, accessibility, and price.

Knowing the difference between Albo and Thai can help you decide which one you’d rather keep in your home.

Mutation – natural vs. tissue culture

The original mutation that causes the variegation of Monstera Albo Borsigiana occurs naturally. At one point there was a normal, green M. borsigiana whose cells began to spontaneously mutate in such a way that those cells didn’t produce chlorophyll. These mutated cells multiply in the monstera stem and are passed on to the next leaf.

This natural mutation only exists in the white blood cells. Seeds from a Monstera Albo will not produce colorful offspring. A new variegated Monstera Albo can only be reproduced from a cutting from a mother plant.

Monstera Thai Constellation has a different origin. It was made from tissue culture in a laboratory in Thailand. In this subspecies, the mutation that causes variegation is present in every cell throughout the plant.

The forms sold – cuttings vs. plant.

Monstera Albo Borsigiana is almost always sold as a cutting from a mother plant. It’s rare to find a mature Albo for sale because they take so long to mature; It is cheaper for nurseries to sell cuttings. If you find a mature album for sale, it will likely be very expensive.

Monstera Thai Constellation is usually sold as a young plant. Because it is made in the lab, it can be farmed and sold this way. Tissue cultures develop directly into small plants that are then potted in the ground and sold. These baby plants will initially have smaller leaves and may not have windows due to their young age.

The chromaticity pattern and the stability

Monstera Albo Borsigiana has a stunning color pattern. Its leaves have green, marbled and white spots. Each sheet will be different from the next.

Due to its natural mutation, this color pattern is unstable. Albo monsteras can grow completely green leaves again, and they can grow leaves that are completely white with no chlorophyll. These all-white leaves are beautiful, but put a lot of strain on the plant and will be the first to die.

The variegation on an albo’s leaves depends on the mutant cells present in the stem and leaf nodes. This can vary greatly even within a facility. The coloring of each leaf depends on that of the previous leaf. By paying attention to the growth and variegation of your alb, you can predict how much white and green will be on the next leaf.

Too much white or too much green in your Monstera Albo new growth will need to be trimmed back to maintain a sustainable balance of beauty and photosynthesis.

The Monstera Thai Constellation has a distinctly different color pattern than the Albo. Thai leaves all have small creamy spots scattered across the surface like a constellation. The light patches are less bright white and more off-white. Thai Monsteras have fewer and smaller sectoral variegations than the Albo (those big, white patches).

Thai Monsteras also have a much more stable variegation. Due to its creation in the laboratory, all cells of the plant contain the mutation. You don’t have to worry about your Thai Monstera going back to fully green leaves.

While chroma is stable, it is also unpredictable. From one hand to the next there is no progression or regression of white or green hands.

internodal distance

The distance between nodes refers to the length of the stem between the leaves. Monstera Albo and Thai are very different in this regard.

Monstera Albo Borsigiana has a longer leaf node, up to 3-4 inches (10 cm). This means the leaves are further apart.

Because of this, Monstera Albo may not look as lush and leafy as it looks and grows more like a vine. This strain definitely needs something like a moss stick to climb on.

This longer leaf knot also makes it very easy to take cuttings. There is plenty of room to intervene with pruning shears.

The Monstera Thai Constellation has a very short internodal spacing of only 2–3 cm. This gives the Thai Monstera a very compact, bushy and lush appearance. However, this makes it difficult to cut cuttings, since there is not much space for the scissors.

sheet size

Monstera borsigiana is a subspecies of M. deliciosa that has slightly smaller leaves. Its leaves are no larger than a foot across (30 cm).

On the other hand, Thai Constellation leaves much larger, more like regular Monstera.

rarity

Monstera Albo Borsigiana is much rarer than Thai Constellation. It is only reproduced by cuttings, while Thai is grown in a laboratory for commercial production. Albo also grows slower than Thai; slow growth means more time between cuttings!

Thai Monsteras are still hard to come by. There is only one lab that makes them, and they can only make a limited number at a time.

pricing

Due to its rarity and demand, Monstera Albo Borsigiana tends to be more expensive than Thai Constellation.

A Monstera Albo cutting can sell for $100 in some places; Some providers charge more depending on the size of the cut. A small plant sells for around $800 and a mature plant sells for over $1,000.

At the time of this posting, a young Monstera Thai Constellation costs between $150 and $700, which is less than the cost of a Monstera Albo of the same size. Mature Thai constellations also sell for over $1,000. Cuttings of this strain are less common but not unheard of.

That’s a lot of information to remember! Here is a table for a quick and easy comparison:

Differences Monstera Variegata Albo Borsigiana Monstera Thai Constellation Most popular forms Cuttings Young plant Source of mutation Natural mutation Tissue culture in laboratory Internodal distance Long, up to 10 cm Very short, 1–2 cm leaf size Smaller leaves, up to 30 cm Large leaves, 2x–3x as large variegation marbling and large white spots on green leaves. Some leaves may even be mostly white. Smaller cream spots on each leaf, like a constellation. Some creamy white or yellow spots. Stability to variation Not stable. New leaves may turn green again or turn completely white. The color of each leaf depends on the leaf before it. Stable. Won’t turn green again. Rarity Very rare. Less rare. Price $100 to $1,000+ USD $150 to $1,000+ USD

How do you cultivate diversity?

As mentioned above, Monstera Albo will have an unstable color scheme while the Thai Constellation color scheme does not need to be maintained.

Can colorful monstera return?

Monstera Albo Borsigiana can start growing leaves that are all green without mutation. However, the new leaves of the Monstera Thai Constellation will always be colorful.

How do I get my variegation back?

To prevent your monstera from turning completely green, you need to cut off the leaves with no mutation in them. The mutated cells in the stem and nodes will produce leaves containing the mutation, but if a node has no mutated cells, the next leaf will be green.

You should also cut back any white leaves. As beautiful as they are, they do not photosynthesize and cause stress to the monstera.

How do you find a colorful Monstera?

The best place to find a colorful monstera of either variety is online. Unless you live near a nursery that specializes in rare and exotic plants, you’re unlikely to find one of these beauties at your local grocery or hardware store!

As with buying online, always buy from a trusted place. Due to Monstera’s recent explosion in popularity and price, there are many scams and inferior products. Always read customer reviews!

Related Questions:

Can a Monstera become colorful?

Technically, a Monstera can be colorful, but it’s very, very, very rare. The Albo Borsigiana variety was created as a spontaneous mutation. Propagating it from cuttings is far cheaper than germinating a hundred thousand seeds to see if any have mutated.

Why do variegated leaves grow slower?

Variegated Monstera varieties grow more slowly because the white spots on their leaves do not contain energy-producing chlorophyll. Less energy means slower growth. This means your colorful Monstera will benefit from some extra indirect bright light.

Also Read: Complete Monstera Lighting Guide: How Much Light Does It Need?

Can variegated monstera knots be propagated without leaves?

Monstera knots without leaves, also known as wet stick, can be propagated into a full sized plant by providing the knot with proper care and a moist condition.

You can use a ziplock bag to make a mini greenhouse for pruning. Place an inch thick layer of peat moss inside the zipper and half bury your wet stick in it.

Also read:

Philodendron Pink Princess: Why Are They So Expensive?

Variegated Monstera Deliciosa – #1 Best Care Guide

Let’s talk about maintenance. It is the variegated form of Monstera Deliciosa

There are yellow, green and white variegations on Monstera Deliciosa.

White variegation is the more common form.

A free grooming infographic is available at the end of this article.

Variegated Monstera Deliciosa care

The Variegated Monstera Deliciosa thrives in elevated humidity above 60%, well-drained soil, bright indirect light, and temperatures between 65-80ºF (18-27ºC). Fertilize monthly in spring and summer with a half-strength liquid fertilizer. Use a well balanced 20-20-20 NPK fertilizer. Do not fertilize in the autumn and winter months.

Variegated Monstera Deliciosa Care Video

Colorful Monstera Deliciosa

To be more precise, it is the Variegated Monstera Deliciosa var. Borsigiana.

According to the University of Connecticut, it’s a climbing plant that needs a totem or moss stick for support to grow well as a houseplant.

Borsigiana is a smaller version of Deliciosa.

It grows quickly but stays smaller than the Monstera Deliciosa.

The Deliciosa develops huge leaves, while the Borsigiana leaves remain rather small.

The Variegated Monstera Deliciosa is a flowering plant that produces fruit and belongs to the Araceae family, according to the University of Florida.

It is therefore considered an aroid.

Various examples of plants belonging to the Aroid family are Monstera obliqua and Monstera adansonii.

The name “deliciosa” or in German delicious derives from the fruit of the monstera, which tastes like a mixture of banana and pineapple and is considered a delicacy.

Monstera deliciosa, or Swiss cheese plant as it’s commonly known, is an epiphyte, meaning it can grow on top of other plants.

It inhabits rainforests in South America.

The foliage is stunning as the split leaves have often been featured in home decor magazines and Instagram posts in recent years.

The most common explanation for the split leaves and holes is that in nature the plants have to withstand heavy rain and wind.

The gaps and slits are designed to allow the plants to better endure these conditions, allowing wind and water to have room without tearing the leaves apart.

It is only a theory at this point and has not been proven.

Difference between Variegated Monstera Deliciosa and Borsigiana

Additionally, a key differentiator between the two plants is the curled stems, where the stem meets the leaf in Monstera Deliciosa once they are more mature.

Some Monstera Borsigiana also develop ruffles on the petioles when fully grown.

However, a Monstera Deliciosa without ruffles on the petioles where they meet the leaf blade is not a large form of Monstera Deliciosa.

Borisigana is trailing and has the petioles and leaves wider apart than the Deliciosa.

The Deliciosa has a much shorter distance between the petioles, the parts or stalks that hold the leaves.

The distance between the nodes is the best way to distinguish the two.

Summary of main differences between Monstera Deliciosa and Monstera Deliciosa var. Borsigiana.

The large form Monstera Deliciosa:

Grows taller with larger leaves

Smaller internodal distances

Always has ruffles on the petioles where they meet the leaf in its mature form

variation

Now that we’ve differentiated between these two plants, let’s quickly talk about variegation.

Variegation is a lack of chlorophyll. The most common form of

Bunt Monstera Deliciosa is the white form called Albo Bunt.

There is also a yellow variegated form called Monstera Deliciosa Borsigiana Aurea.

Caring for the Variegated Monstera Deliciosa is not difficult at all as long as you follow a few general rules and don’t overwater or overwater.

Now let’s look at the care of the Monstera Deliciosa Variegata (Borsigiana):

Variegated Monstera Deliciosa Care Guide

floor

Variegated Monstera Deliciosa thrives in well-drained potting soil.

Adding perlite and orchid bark is a great way to add extra drainage to your Monstera Deliciosa.

Other ingredients that make a great arum blend include charcoal, peat moss, and pumice.

light

Bright indirect light is best for a Variegated Monstera Deliciosa.

A few hours of direct sunlight in the morning is fine, but be careful. Too much direct light can burn and damage the leaves. Since you are dealing with a Variegated Monstera Deliciosa, your plant will need more light than the non-variegated green version.

Because of the white surface, your Deliciosa will have less chlorophyll in its leaves that can be used for photosynthesis.

irrigation

Water the Variegated Monstera Deliciosa about once a week. It doesn’t like to stay wet for too long.

Water as you would water most of your houseplants.

About once a week is sufficient in most conditions. Make sure the water runs off quickly and keep it slightly damp.

Variegated Monstera Deliciosa does not like staying wet for too long.

Wait for the soil to dry before watering again.

Your plant will forgive you an overwatering once or twice, but will eventually develop root rot if the roots stay too wet for too long.

It is best to keep the soil slightly moist but never waterlogged.

temperature

The best temperature range for a Variegated Monstera Deliciosa is 65-80ºF (18-27ºC).

Temperatures below 10 °C for too long damage your plant and stop it from growing.

humidity

Maintain a humidity level of 50% or more for Variegated Monstera Deliciosa.

The colorful Monstera Deliciosa loves high humidity.

Some people spray their plants every day.

The Deliciosa definitely thrives in high humidity, but will tolerate it if you don’t spray your plant.

The moisture requirements are even higher for the colorful variant than for the purely green variant.

fertilizer

Feed a Variegated Monstera Deliciosa once a month in spring and summer with a liquid houseplant fertilizer at half the suggested strength.

Do not fertilize in winter and fall when Variegated Monstera Deliciosa is not in growth mode. Use a balanced fertilizer with 20-20-20 NPK values.

propagation

The Variegated Monstera Deliciosa is the perfect plant to propagate as it is fairly easy to propagate. The most common method is taking cuttings.

This is also the only way to ensure you get a perfect clone of your plant that is colorful. Propagation from seeds will not result in variegated plants in most cases as the variegation is not passed on.

growth

The Variegated Monstera Deliciosa can grow to about 10 feet tall.

The Monstera plants produce aerial or aerial roots that help the plant attach itself to other plants and trees. I

Adding a moss stick to your Swiss cheese plant will make the leaves larger and the stems thicker and taller.

Variegated Monstera Deliciosa leaves are green with white or yellow variegation.

The amount of variegation varies greatly between plants.

Some Monstera plants have very little white, while others have large splatters that almost look like someone spilled a bucket of white paint on them.

When a Variegated Monstera Deliciosa has half-white, half-green leaves, it is referred to as a crescent variegated and is considered even rarer than the already fairly rare and hard-to-find Variegated Monstera Deliciosa.

stew

Use a pot with drainage for a Variegated Monstera Deliciosa.

A drainage hole at the bottom of the pot is fine as it will prevent the soil from staying soggy for too long.

Caring for the variegated Monstera Deliciosa is not all that different from caring for other tropical houseplants.

The biggest difference we would like to point out is the increased need for light, since the lack of chlorophyll has to be compensated.

Low light conditions are not recommended for Variegated Monstera Deliciosa care.

The leaves of the Variegated Monstera Deliciosa

The leaves of an adult Variegated Monstera Deliciosa are split with slits and holes.

Young plants do not have this trait as they develop more and more slits and holes as they mature.

The variegation is found on both the stem and the leaves. It is possible that the plant will return and become fully green again.

The opposite is also possible, namely that the Variegated Monstera Deliciosa will become whiter and whiter as it grows.

Once it produces completely white leaves called ghost leaves, it needs to be cut back as no leaves also mean no chlorophyll and no photosynthesis.

You can prune a Variegated Monstera Deliciosa once it starts growing in the direction that its leaves and stems are either whiter or greener.

All you have to do is prune back to the point where the stem and leaves are in the right proportion.

Make sure that cuttings always have at least one node, as this is needed to produce new plants from the cuttings that you can propagate.

Now let’s talk in more detail about ways to propagate Variegated Monstera Deliciosa:

Variegated Monstera Deliciosa Propagation

Monstera Deliciosa can be propagated from seed or cuttings.

However, Variegated Monstera Deliciosas are produced almost exclusively from cuttings, as propagation from seed is considered unsuccessful.

The same applies to tissue culture of Variegated Monstera Deliciosa. This method does not work to produce variegated plants.

stem cuttings

Your best method of getting colorful plants is by stem cutting, as this method always produces an exact clone of the mother plant.

Here are the steps for a successful stem propagation:

Find a section that you want to propagate on your Variegated Monstera Deliciosa. Make sure you have a section with at least one node as only these sections are capable of producing viable plants. Prepare a clean knife or pair of scissors that are free of pesticides and other contaminants Use rubbing alcohol and hold the blade under a hot flame for a few seconds. Cut below the knot, making sure you have a section of at least 1-3 leaves. These cuttings will develop much faster than a leafless section. Stems with nodes can also produce new plants, but production must go into the production of leaves and roots, and begins without leaves capable of producing energy through photosynthesis. After you cut the stalk, allow it to dry for at least a few hours to a day or two, depending on the size of the stalk. Now that you’ve cut off a section of your Variegated Monstera Deliciosa, it’s time to move on to the next medium, which will allow the cutting to root and form new leaves. You have the option of using any of the following mediums: soil, water, peat moss, perlite.

Propagation of Variegated Monstera Deliciosa in soil

From our point of view, propagation in the soil can be the simplest but also the most difficult method.

Prepare well-drained potting soil for this propagation method.

An example mix might be houseplant soil, perlite, and orchid bark.

Pour it, making sure it’s damp but not soaking wet.

Use an instrument to poke a hole in it, then place your stem cut by slowly covering the side of the stem with soil.

Make sure the knot is in the ground and that the cut is well positioned.

That’s essentially it. Water from time to time when the soil is dry and make sure it never dries out.

Make sure not to overdo it, however, as at this stage your cutting will not have roots to absorb water.

Depending on the season, it can take several weeks to a month for the first roots to grow.

The best indicator that your cutting is actually growing into a new plant is when it begins to produce a new leaf.

Another way to check your cut is to try and pull it gently.

If there is resistance, there is a good chance it will start to take root.

As I said before, I consider this method to be the most difficult and easiest method.

I find it easy because you don’t have much to do or prepare as you will stick your Variegated Monstera Deliciosa straight into the soil after the cutting has had time to harden (dry).

Some people recommend putting either honey or cinnamon on the cutting as they can act as a disinfectant (the cinnamon at least) and are said to encourage root growth.

We think ground propagation is the most difficult method because you have no view of what’s going on underneath.

You must be very good at reading the condition of your cutting as you will not see when your Variegated Monstera Deliciosa cutting is taking root.

In addition, if you water the soil too much, the chances that the cutting will start to rot are quite high.

Propagation of Variegated Monstera Deliciosa in Water

Water propagation is often considered the method for the novice plant propagator.

The biggest advantage is certainly that you can see what’s going on. Using a clear container allows you to watch your cuttings grow roots.

One thing to note is that water roots are different from ground roots.

This is also the biggest disadvantage of water spread. Water roots are not the same as ground roots.

If you plant the rooted Variegated Cheese plant in the ground, the plant will be in shock and will need to establish underground roots first.

Water roots look different than ground roots. Water roots are white and look a bit like pale spaghetti, while ground roots are brown to black and often thicker and harder.

However, once the transition from water to soil has been made, the monstera will usually continue to grow without hiccups or problems.

In the next section we will look at our preferred propagation method.

Propagation with peat moss.

Propagation of Variegated Monstera Deliciosa in peat moss

In our opinion, peat moss is the easiest method and the one that produces the best roots the fastest.

Because peat moss encourages soil roots, it won’t be visible when the rooted cuttings are planted in the soil where they belong.

This is a huge advantage over rooting Variegated Monsteras in water.

You can use either fresh live peat moss or dried moss. Both methods work.

The best sphagnum moss is New Zealand long fiber sphagnum moss, but basically any sphagnum. Moss will do.

Before placing your cutting in the moss, water it thoroughly or soak it in water.

This applies in particular to dried moss. Moss is said to absorb 16 times its weight in water.

Peat moss is also said to have antibacterial properties and can help prevent root rot.

The perfect combination for propagation.

The trick with peat moss is that it shouldn’t be too wet.

Keeping your moss too moist will leave your cutting in a sopping wet state and begin to show signs of root rot.

At this point, it’s downhill for your Variegated Monstera cutting and you need to completely save it from rotting.

Propagation of Variegated Monstera Deliciosa in Perlite

A fairly new method that we’re reading more and more about is propagation, or rooting, in perlite.

Because perlite is inorganic, roots have the least chance of producing rot as it is porous and well-draining, allowing airflow.

These abilities ensure that moisture evaporates quickly before rot can form.

One thing to be aware of is that you will need to plant your cutting in the ground once it begins to root.

To use perlite on a Monstera Deliciosa Variegata, make sure it’s slightly damp but not completely wet.

Fill a container while wrapping perlite around your cutting and pressing it firmly against the stem.

Because perlite is lighter than soil, you’ll need to plant your cutting a little lower than if you planted it in the ground to allow it to stand upright.

Avoid too much sunlight or artificial light as the cuttings will no longer have roots to absorb water from now on.

Also, for the same reason, make sure the temperature in the area where you place the cutting is not too hot.

Mist from time to time to keep the perlite slightly damp.

Cut back on watering and play it safe, as overwatering can lead to root rot.

As said, once the cuttings have rooted they need to be transplanted into soil as the perlite contains little to no nutrients.

Common problems with the colorful Monstera deliciosa

Monstera Deliciosa Variegata goes bad pretty quickly if your houseplant care isn’t optimal. These are the most common problems and remedies:

brown leaves

Problem: Browning and even yellowing leaves can be an indicator of overwatering, as can an uncontrolled watering-to-light ratio.

In particular, the browning of the white colored areas is caused by too little light and moisture.

Some people claim it’s normal, but it’s certainly preventable as we assume you’d like to keep the white parts of your precious Variegata.

Solution: Reduce watering and make sure your Variegated Monstera Deliciosa Borsigiana gets enough light.

Trim away the brown parts on the leaf and the white areas as this will help reduce the chance of browning spreading to the leaves.

Yellowing Leaves

Problem: The most common cause of yellowed leaves on a Monstera Deliciosa Variegata is overwatering.

Overwatering is so common in houseplants that most people don’t even realize they’re overwatering. Also, it doesn’t always mean you’re overwatering.

If you use a pot without drainage holes or potting soil that is too dense and not lumpy, the roots will remain moist for too long and will not get enough oxygen.

Your plant will let you know by yellowing leaves.

Another reason leaves turn yellow is when old leaves fall off. At this point, individual leaves usually turn yellow and then wither.

Solution: Check the soil and also the roots of your plant. If your soil is still soaking wet a week after watering, you need to change your soil mix/pot, or both.

When the roots start to rot, you need to remove the rooted sections to prevent the rot from spreading further. water less essential.

Brown leaf tips

Problem: The most common cause is insufficient humidity and dry air. Potted plants can also cause leaf tips to turn brown.

Solution: Mist the leaves of your colorful Monstera Deliciosa plant daily.

Use a gravel tray under the flower pot and fill it with water. If a monstera pot is tied, switch to a larger pot.

mite and scale infection

Problem: Tiny animals on your Variegated Monstera Deliciosa.

Mites are troublesome sap suckers that suck sap from the underside of plant leaves.

These pests have the potential to destroy a plant when they occur in large populations.

Look for drops and clusters of tiny critters on the underside of your Variegated Monstera leaves.

Scale insects are easy to spot when fully grown. They are brown to black and also soak up the sugar secret of the plant sap.

Once fully grown, their large size makes them easy to spot with the naked eye.

There are different types of scales. Another scale type is the white scale.

Solution: Spray your plant with a diluted soap or alcohol solution.

Some people recommend neem oil. If all else fails, consider using bug spray to prevent further spread to other plants.

Frequently Asked Questions about Variegated Monstera Deliciosa

How do I care for a variegated Monstera Deliciosa?

Caring for the Variegated Monstera Deliciosa is similar to caring for a regular Monstera Deliciosa in terms of soil, temperature, and watering needs. The biggest difference is that they need more light because the plants are variegated, and even more moisture to ensure the white variegated parts don’t turn brown.

What do I do if the white parts of a Variegated Monstera Deliciosa turn brown?

Increase the humidity in the room by either spraying water on your Variegated Monstera’s leaves daily, placing a gravel tray under the pot, or using a humidifier. Make sure your Cheese plant gets enough bright indirect light. Use scissors to remove the browning part on the leaves to prevent further browning. Make a cut that follows the natural shape of the leaves.

Can you grow colorful Monstera from seed?

This is highly unlikely. Variegated Monstera deliciosa does not pass this trait through seeds in most cases. A better way is by stem cutting as these are exact clones of the mother plant.

Where can I buy a Variegated Monstera Deliciosa?

Although colorful Monstera are still rare, they are becoming more and more common in garden centers in different countries. Your best sources to buy one are still: Etsy, eBay, and Facebook, as well as boutique online plant stores.

How much does a Variegated Monstera Deliciosa cost?

The prices range enormously for these plants. The biggest factors seem to be where you are. Countries where you pay a high premium are New Zealand, Australia and the USA. In the first two countries in particular, prices between $300 and $600 for a mature example are not uncommon. Monstera Deliciosa Variegata is becoming more readily available in Europe, but you’ll still pay between $50 and $100 just by cutting 1-3 leaves.

Will the price of a Variegated Monstera Deliciosa go down over time?

As with almost everything, economics also apply in the plant business. It’s about supply and demand. The demand is still much higher than the supply. The more people get a Variegated Monstera Deliciosa, the more cuttings will be available. However, since you can’t craft Variegated Monsteras from seed in most cases, and you can’t tissue cultivate Variegated Monsteras, it will take time for prices to drop.

Are there true Variegated Monstera Deliciosa and not Borsigiana?

yes there is The true Deliciosa form is a taller plant with larger leaves and certain differences such as curled stems where the stem meets the leaf. Although much more difficult to find, there are also variegated versions of its bigger brother, the true Monstera Deliciosa, not the Monstera Deliciosa Borsigiana.

The Elusive Variegated Monstera Deliciosa

Monstera Variegata or Variegated Monstera Deliciosa is THE trend in the houseplant community. Variegation means that plants have white or sometimes yellow splashes on their leaves and also variegated sections on their stems and petioles — that’s the stalk that the leaf is attached to — just to use botanically correct jargon.

Plant variegation is rare, so demand currently outstrips supply. The Instagram hype surrounding plants like Variegated Monstera Deliciosa, Monstera Thai Constellation, and Variegated Monstera Adansonii has added fuel to the fire lately.

WHAT IS VARIATION?

Variegation are zones of different colors in leaves, stems and petioles of plants. As already mentioned, this rarely occurs in nature. Such plants are called chimeras. Two types of plant tissue are present in such plants. Variegation can be increased, but both types of tissue must be present for the increase to take place.

In most cases, propagation from seeds does not succeed. The white or yellow is caused by a lack of chlorophyll in some plant cells. It is caused by mutated cells. When it occurs randomly, it is called chimeric. It can also happen genetically. When it happens, genetic seeds as well as green shoots of the plant will continue to produce the same color scheme.

Random mutations are less stable and offspring and shoots will not produce the same coloration. Random mutation is more common than genetic mutation but is generally more difficult to stabilize.

The lack of chlorophyll causes the variegated plant to be more fragile than the non-variegated plant. Therefore, it usually dies out fairly quickly in nature because it contains less chlorophyll, which is needed for plant growth.

Besides the random and genetic variegation, there is a third form caused by viral infection.

The green color itself in plants is caused by the contents of plant cells. Their contents are called chloroplasts. Chloroplasts are needed to carry out the chemical reaction known as photosynthesis. In order for this process to take place, plants absorb water with their roots. Carbon dioxide enters the plants through pores in the leaves.

Water and glucose sugar are produced from light energy and water. Chloroplasts contain light-absorbing molecules called chlorophyll. The pigments react to light and absorb red and blue light and reflect green. Therefore, most plants appear green.

How do I know my plant is variegated?

A common misconception is that any kind of change or discoloration of the leaves must be some kind of variegation. More than once we’ve seen people on social media proudly bragging about their luck since their beloved plant has just produced some sort of variegation.

More often, the cause is either malnutrition or even a disease called Mosaic Virus, which spreads quickly to other plants, usually killing its host.

Well, but then: “How do I know that my plant is really colorful?”. The best indicator of a high probability of having a variegated plant is if you bought a plant with variegation.

Diverse Monstera Deliciosas are often offered on the Internet. There are several sellers on eBay, Facebook and Etsy and Instagram willing to part with their variegated specimens or cuttings of them for a hefty price.

Again, variegation is very rare, so your chance of a plant randomly producing variegation is about 1 in 100,000. So to get a colorful plant from a Monstera Deliciosa, you would have to take 100,000 cuttings and produce new plants.

And let’s remember, that’s just the average. So whenever you think you’ve spotted variegation on your plants without variegation, it’s most likely something else. But it can and will happen. It’s just not very likely…

Interestingly, some plants have stable variegations. For example, the Monstera Thai Constellation was created in laboratories in Thailand for its chromaticity and is 100% stable, meaning it will not lose its chromaticity.

Plants like a Monstera Deliciosa Borsigiana Variegata can lose their variegation and show more or less variation as they grow. It is not uncommon for the chroma to disappear completely.

Causes of variegation

Random mutation: This is the most common type of variegation and the least stable. When propagated from green shoots or seeds, variegation does not return.

Genetic mutation: Cells in the white sectors of plants lack pigment and block chloroplast biogenesis at various steps. The cause of this colorfulness may be due to nuclear, chloroplast, or mitochondrial genesis. White and green sectors can have either the same or different genotypes depending on the plant.

Viral infection: It destroys the color in leaves or flowers. Virus-infected plants often show variegation in the flowers but not in the leaves. The virus can be transmitted by cuttings and root transplants, but not by seeds. Getting rid of viral infections in plants is not easy. Tissue culture and extreme heat treatments are two methods to get rid of a viral infection.

TYPES OF VARIATION

White Chroma: This is the archetype of chroma. A good example would be Monstera var Borsigiana albo variegata, where albo simply means white. Albo from albus is derived from Latin and means “white”.

Yellow variegation: A well-known plant species with yellow variegation is the so-called Monstera var. Borsigiana Aurea Variegata or “Golden Variegated”. It produces green foliage with yellow splashes. Aurea is the Latin feminine name for “golden”.

Venal Variegation: This type of variegation is defined by white or yellow veins in the leaves. It’s caused by a lack of tissue that sits over the veins.

What colorful plants are there?

This is a list of plants that are available with variegation:

What can be signs of variegation? Let’s find out:

SIGN OF THE VARIANT

These are the most common signs of a variegated plant:

Variegated white or yellow leaves

White or yellow sections on stem and petioles

White or yellow veins

Now that we’ve learned what types of plants are known to be available as variegated plants, let’s take a look at the most common questions about variegation in plants:

TYPICAL QUESTIONS ABOUT COLOR

How can I promote diversity?

You can simply encourage more colorfulness in already colorful plants by positioning your houseplants in a spot with more light. The darker the spot, the more green leaves will be produced. The proximity of a window or an artificial light source is a good place for your variegated plant to add more colourfulness.

How do I increase the variegation of my plant?

It is known that pruning variegated plants where they exhibited more variegation could help increase variegation in successive growths. E.g. If your Monstera plant is variegated and produces a fully green leaf, you can prune it back to the last variegated leaf and hope the new growth will be more variegated.

How do I avoid too much variegation?

Although chroma is most often sought after, there can be too much chroma. Completely white leaves contain almost no to no chlorophyll.

If you don’t cut back such leaves, you risk that your plant will continue this growth pattern and eventually become unable to sustain itself due to the lack of proper photosynthesis of green cells containing chlorophyll. So you can cut back 100% white leaves down to the last variegated leaf with green sections and hope for another regrowth.

Do variegated plants grow slower?

Yes, they do. Colorful plants have less chlorophyll and therefore less surface area that can carry out photosynthesis. They therefore need much more light than normal plants and grow much more slowly. Note, however, that they are also more prone to sunburn as the white parts on the leaves are also more sensitive than the green areas.

Can you force variegation?

Yes, in some cases it is possible to force variegation. A good example is the now frowned upon Philodendron Pink Congo. This plant is believed to be produced by chemical induction.

It is said to only last 12-24 months and then turn fully green again, but is said to produce bubblegum pink leaves in its new growth. Even when a particular virus is known to produce a particular type of variegation, it can sometimes be used to reproduce the variegation now desired.

Where can I buy a Variegated Monstera Deliciosa?

Your best source for finding Monstera Deliciosa Variegata is eBay. Many sellers around the world list their colorful plants there, and with good reason. They often sell for fairly high prices. Other sources include Facebook groups, plant webshops and Instagram plant accounts.

Read about a stunning houseplant that looks great even without being variegated. It’s called Begonia maculata and has white dots on the upper side of the leaf and a red back.

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