Top 42 From The Depths Graviton Ram 261 Most Correct Answers

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Graviton Rams – Fun for all! – From the depths

Optimise APS for Graviton Ram? : FromTheDepths

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From The Depths Ultimate Beginner’s Weapon Guide

In this guide, I’m going to go over each and every weapon type in the game as well as some tips on how to make better guns.

Introduction

In this guide, I’ll be covering pretty much every weapon system in the game you can build and give some building tips I’ve learned throughout my playtime. Before we get started I will acknowledge that I mostly have experience with advanced cannons so take the tips of the buildings I have on other weapons systems with a grain of salt, also I’m assuming you already know how to build AIs and connect them to weapons but if you don’t basically you just need to connect a Local Weapons Controller (LWC) to the firing piece of the weapon or the turret it’s mounted on.

An Anti-Munitions Cannon Controller (AMCC) can also work but it will only target incoming CRAM shells and missiles and it only works with weapons on a turret. You can stick an LWC and an AMCC on the same turret and it will act as a dual-purpose weapon, shooting at crafts and munitions alike, just make sure both connect back to the AI. Anyways without further ado let’s get into the guide!

Simple Weapons

To start off with we’re looking at simple weapons, these guys are by far the easiest to set up, for the majority of them you just have to put the gun down and stick a LWC next to it and you’re done! The only downside is that most of them are fairly weak, only being a threat to unarmored targets like most Deep Water Guard craft, still they can be pretty useful secondary/main weapons, especially if you’re using the rams.

Melee Weapons

From left to right we have a Ram block, a Drill, and a Tactical Nuke

These are the most basic melee weapons in the game and probably the most effective simple weapons, the Rams are the most versatile and the easiest to use, just slap em on the front of your craft and hit things at high speed. Drills are a bit more complex requiring the main drill block, some drill bits, a power input and a torque amplifier to function as well as an Automated Control Block (ACB) to turn on by itself, the main advantage over rams being that you don’t need to be nearly as fast to be effective with them, just catching up to the target will do the trick, there’s also more powerful steam drills that require a steam engine to work but that’s another story. The Tactical Nuke also needs an ACB to function properly but you can get away with just ramming hard enough into the enemy to set off the nuke, they do a pretty hefty amount of damage but will almost certainly destroy the craft they’re attached to so put them on something cheap or very far away from the main body of the craft.

Ye Olde Cannons

From left to right we have a 16 pound gun, a 32 pound gun, and a 64 pound gun with a revolving blast gun at the end

These guns are probably the most basic guns in the game, the 16, 32, and 64 pound guns all function in the same way, they fire one cannon ball and then take a while to reload with each gun firing a more damaging shot with each step up in weight. If you want to be as effective as possible use the 64 pound gun and use a lot of them for best effect. Meanwhile the revolving blast gun fires a lot of shots very quickly in a shotgun style spray, it has an alright field of fire and amount of shots for it’s burst but like the other cannons it takes a very long time to reload, about a minute if I’m not mistaken, similar to the cannons you’ll want to use more than one of these if you want to do some real damage.

Energy Weapons

On the left, the Simple Laser, on the right, the Shard Cannon

Our very first energy weapons and probably the least used weapons in the game, the Simple Laser takes some time to charge up but once it does it fires a constant beam for a few seconds, it can carve through wood and it’s pretty cool looking but you’re better off using other weapons for anything with armor. As for the Shard Cannon this thing does quite a lot of damage per shot, almost enough to take out a wood beam with just one shot, it does suffer against metal but not nearly as much as the Laser, you’ll want more than one to keep the damage up but this is a fairly effective weapon.

Small Anti-Air (AA)

On the left, the T-Class 20mm Gun, on the right, the R-Class .50 Cal

Our first rapid-fire guns that don’t shoot like shotguns, the T-Class is a fairly decent start for your AA guns, it has a pretty decent magazine size and a fairly quick reload of about 6 seconds, if you’ve forgotten to make an Advanced Projectile System (APS) AA system the T-class is a pretty decent start. On the other hand the R-class is really only a threat against wooden targets, each shot does about half the damage of a T-class shot and it only has 30 rounds per mag with roughly the same reload time as the T-class, still they’re a pretty good decoration piece if you need some .50 cal guns on your boat but I wouldn’t use them as the only AA on the craft.

Medium AA

From left to right we have the Twin 40mm Mk-H, the Quad 40mm Mk-I, and the Octuple 40mm Mk-S

The first weapons that have explosive weaponry, all 3 guns fire explosive shells with pretty decent damage and AP for their caliber, the Mk-S in particular is the best AA in my opinion that isn’t an APS, with 8 shells per shot and a 200 round mag you just can’t go wrong with the Mk-S. the Mk-H and Mk-I can still do the same job but they don’t have nearly the same mag size, however the reload time is a bit better so if you don’t have space for a Mk-S use one of these bad boys and it’ll get the job done.

Burst-Fire Guns

On the left, the 30mm Assault Cannon, on the right, the 60mm Auto Cannon

The last burst weapons for the simple weapons, both the 30mm and the 60mm are probably the most effective simple weapons that don’t need custom shells to work, however both also have a terrible field of fire so sticking them on a 2-axis turret is advised. The 30mm has a larger mag but a longer reload time and the damage per shot is about half of the 60mm, meanwhile the 60mm only has 9 shots per mag but makes up for it with a 2 second reload time. Despite being good burst cannons I can’t really think of a good use for these guys, I have seen the 30mm being used on Steel Strider ships as a cheap CIWS but other than that I’m not sure, if you’ve come up with a use for them please let me know in the comments.

Custom Shell Cannons

From left to right we have the Type-E 60mm Grenade Launcher, the Type A 3.7″ Gun, the Type A(L) 3.7″ Gun, the Type L Casemated Gun, and finally the Type L(E) Casemated Gun

Our final category of Simple Weapons and probably the cheapest secondary guns you can get that can actually do something, these guys all fire customized shells from an APS Shell Customizer which will be covered in the Advanced Cannons section down below. The Type-E launcher is the weakest of the bunch thanks to it’s 60mm shells however it does make up for this slightly by being the only one in this group to have a magazine, however, it does have the same minute-long reload timer of the Blast Cannon so it’s pretty limited in it’s damage output, still it’s a good gun for small craft that need a boost in firepower. Meanwhile the Type A and Type A(L) both have the same shell size of 94mm or 3.7 freedom units, the only difference between the 2 is that the Type A(L) is slightly tankier and a bit more expensive unless you don’t like the gun shield or can’t afford the cost I’d recommend using the Type A(L) on your smaller ships if you think they need secondary guns.

Finally, we have the Type L and Type L(E), despite sharing the same type letter these last 2 guns have different shell sizes, the Type L takes 130mm shells while the Type L(E) takes 150mm shells. They’ve also got different reload speeds with the Type L(E) taking 8 seconds between shots, nearly double of the Type L’s 4.5 second reload, however the Type L(E) makes up for this by firing both barrels at the same time, if you need cheap secondary guns on your battleship and/or dreadnought that can fit basically anywhere these are the guns you’re looking for.

CRAM Cannons

The be all end all of the shell size, CRAM Cannons can fire shells up to 2 meters in diameter and are one of the easiest custom-built guns to put together in the game, it’s like playing with legos only these legos fire gigantic shells. They do have some drawbacks however, for one the shells are big enough that any active defenses like a Close-In Weapons System (CIWS) turret or LAMS can and will shoot at them, potentially destroying your shot before impact, also their shell speed can only go up to 200m/s making them a pretty terrible choice for dealing with more agile crafts. Now that we’ve gone over the basic idea let’s go over the blocks you need/want to make them work. As much as I would like to tell you about every single block and how they work in great detail I don’t want this guide to take another year to write, so from here on in I’m going to assume you can read the description on each block to find out how they work, I’ll still provide a quick reference table for the different blocks with a simplified description as well as pictures of example cannons at the end.

Quick-Reference table

Block Description Notes Firing Piece Starting point for the weapon, every piece of the cannon must connect either directly or indirectly to this piece. Fires bullets, duh. Make sure the firing end is pointing where you want it to. Gauge Increaser Increases the size of the bullet being fired, boosts damage accordingly. Shell damage increases with size but loses speed as a trade-off, good idea to have a shell diameter in mind before building. 6-Way Connector Connects virtually any other block to the firing piece as long as the chain eventually leads to the firing piece. Pretty much Essential in any cannon design, helps to use these blocks to build a “skeleton” that everything else fits into Packer x3 (Manual/ Automatic Orientation) Combines the ammo pellets into a bullet for the gun to fire, Manual orientation requires you to make sure everything’s pointing the right way, automatic handles all that for you As of Update 3.3.8 Automatic packers are no longer a thing. Automatic orientation sucks don’t use it There’s only manual orientation now, try to maximize the number of packers per pellet box, otherwise go nuts. Payload Compactor Increases the payload capacity of the shells allowing more pellets to be packed in before firing, becomes more effective when connected to more Packers. Will slow down reload times but the damage increase may be worth it especially for big doom cannons. HE/Hardener/Frag/EMP Pellets Provides different effects based on the amount of pellets and the ratio each of them have with each other, all become more effective when connected to more packers. HE and Frag are very good against unarmored targets, however explosive radius is capped at 10 meters for pretty much all explosives in the game except for Flak, Hardener gives more Armor piercing (AP)/Shell health and EMP can fry electronics, the ideal ratio depends on what enemies you’re fighting. Barrel & Barrel Types Usually makes the gun more accurate while also increasing shell speed, different types will have different effects Heavy Barrel’s beefier, Recoil Suppression helps with recoil, Motor Driven makes the barrel rotate to target faster, Flash Suppression makes the shell harder to detect, Elevation lets the gun aim wayyyy up, and the Bomb chute turns the shell into a low-velocity bomb. Fusing Box Allows you to set different fuses with different effects at the cost of payload space. I can’t go over every fuse here but just know that this block is practically essential on any advanced CRAM design. Laser Targete Works in tandem with the Fusing box to accurately set fuses. Practically a necessity if using timed/altitude fuses. Fall of Shot Predictor Will draw a line from the block itself to the predicted endpoint of the shot while aiming the gun. Useful for manual aiming or figuring out exactly where your craft is firing at a glance, otherwise completely useless. Interface Screen Decorative cannon piece. Originally used to display all the info you’d get by looking at the firing piece’s Q menu, now it’s just decoration, good for a mock CRT display I guess?

With that quick-reference table out of the way, let’s discuss cannon design.

CRAM Cannon Example

Blocks Description Notes Firing Piece Starting point for the weapon, every other cannon piece must connect either directly or indirectly to this block. Pretty much identical to the CRAM cannon in function, just with a whole lot more options in the menu to use. Gauge Increaser Increases the shell size and damage at the cost of reload speed and shell speed, can connect to autoloaders. The actual size of the shell will differ depending on what you want the gun to do, typically 60mm is the bare minimum, 150mm-300mm is medium-gauge, and anything above 300mm is a heavy/main gun. Gauge Cooling Unit Decreases the amount of time it takes for the barrel to cool down, can connect to autoloaders. This will probably be the most common component in your cannon besides autoloaders and ammo racks, good for building the “skeleton” of the cannon. 6-Way Connector Connects virtually any block to any other block, as long as the chain either reaches the firing piece or Gauge Increasers/Coolers connected to the firing piece. Pretty much exactly the same function as the CRAM version, really only useful on railguns, if you’ve built your cannon properly you won’t need these at all. Autoloader (1m-8m) Provides a way to load shells into the gun, length ranges from 1m-8m for different shell sizes. The more of these you have the faster the fire rate will be, each individual loader can be optimized by having more clips attached to different slots up to a max of 4 in each slot. Belt-fed Autoloader Provides a very fast way of loading shells into the gun, will not reload until all rounds in clip are expended or the gun hasn’t fired in a while, capped at 1m in length The length cap means this autoloader is only good for smaller gauges, that being said if you throw enough lead down range you’re bound to damage something, extending the clip can help the gun shoot for longer and adding more input feeders reduces reload time. Ammo Input Feeder Loads shells into the clip/autoloader/firing piece, needs an ammo customizer to function. Reload times can be reduced by adding more of these, other than that not much to say. Recoil Absorber (1m-8m) Absorbs recoil from the gun, longer absorbers can take more recoil. You’ll always want a few of these on any gun you build, recoil reduces accuracy so make sure you have enough absorbers to keep up on faster firing guns. Mantlets Lets you aim the gun barrel in various different fields of fire without needing a turret, Omni types cover most directions, Elevation types only cover vertical aiming, and AA mantlets give a very high upward field of fire with little downward and nothing laterally. These blocks are pretty much essential for every gun you build, AA mantlets are great for deck guns and AA guns while the elevation mantlets are good for guns you want to aim both up and down with omni mantlets being great for in-hull mounted guns. Barrels Makes the shot more accurate, Heavy barrels are tougher but heavier, Bore Evacuator help with cooling and all the different Muzzle Brakes help reduce recoil. it’s a good idea to include pretty much all of these parts no matter what cannon you’re building, the only exception would probably be the heavy barrel which is really only useful on very big guns. Railgun Magnets & Fixtures Used to provide energy capacity for the railgun to draw from, magnets only attach to magnet fixtures or other magnets and the fixtures only attach to the firing piece. The more magnets you have the bigger the charge, just keep in mind that you’ll also need an appropriate amount of chargers to keep up with the firing rate. Railgun Charger Consumes vehicle energy to charge the rails on a railgun. include more to speed up charge time, make sure you have enough to keep up with the firing rate! Laser Targeter Works in conjunction with shell fuse to automatically set shell detonation parameters. Pretty much exactly like the CRAM version, the only difference is how you put fuses on the shells. Fall of Shot Predictor Draws an arc from where the block is placed to where the predicted impact point is. Just like the CRAM version, good for telling where your gun is aiming but useless for anything else. Ammo Customizer & Controller Both blocks work together to build a shell for the gun to fire. I’ll go over this more in the shell module quick reference table but right now all you need to know is this is how you make bullets for your gun. Ammo Ejector Tosses all the shells out of the connected autoloader’s clips, only connects directly to autoloaders. Good for keeping your guns from exploding, be aware that shells are still live when they’re ejected unless you’ve included a defuser in the shell design.

While all of these blocks bring a lot more complexity to building the gun, there’s also a lot more options to fiddle around with in the menus for these blocks, the Firing Piece for example allows you to set a desired shell gauge, number of barrels as well as plenty of other options for railguns and the like. This also crops up in the Ammo Customiser & Controller which allow you to fine tune your shell’s effectiveness a lot more than in CRAM cannons, speaking of which…

Quick Reference Table (Shell Modules)

Shell modules are the individual modules of your cannon’s shell that can be changed out for different modules in the Ammo Customiser & Controller blocks, shell length is determined here by how many segments are in sequence with a maximum of 20 modules. All of the different modules and their effects are listed below in the table.

Modules Description Notes Gunpowder Casing Contains propellant that ignites when gun is fired and pushes the shell out of the gun barrel. Include more in shell design to make shell go faster, increases cooldown time. Railgun Casing Utilizes magnetic energy from the Railgun to propel the shell at high velocity, allows a much greater portion of energy to be imparted into the shell. Include more in shell design to increase shell energy capacity, not necessary for railgun to work but it really helps. HE Warhead Causes shell to detonate on impact has a nose variant. Makes shell go boom, include more for bigger boom, ’nuff said. Flak Warhead Causes shell to detonate on impact in a wide radius at the cost of explosive damage, has a nose variant. Good for AA guns or to give HE shells a bit more explosive range. Frag Warhead Upon detonation a certain number of fragments are thrown in different directions inside a defined cone, has a nose variant. Smaller cone angles will reduce the damage of each fragment, wider angles are usually good for AA, can be combined with enough armor piercing to throw frags around inside a target. Solid Warhead Adds more mass to the shell thereby increasing kinetic damage & AP, also increasing shell health. Good for APHE or straight Kinetic shells, APHE must be combined with a railgun in order to be effective. Sabot Warhead Greatly Increases AP by making the shell a very thin metal rod, AP increase comes at the cost of pretty much every other warhead’s damage, has a nose variant. Really good for pure kinetic/AP rounds and makes an excellent sniper shell for a railgun, gun must be very accurate otherwise shell might miss vital components and pass directly through the target. EMP Warhead On contact with target, module will send an EMP surge through all conductive blocks greatly damaging electronic blocks, has a nose variant. Add more to increase EMP damage, good for knocking out AI or disabling shields if combined with a disruptor head, Heavy armor takes more damage from EMP as well. Smoke Warhead Creates a smoke cloud on detonation, smoke reduces laser AP. Good against targets using lasers, useless against anything else. Heavy Head A nose module that greatly increases kinetic damage, basically the nose variant of the Solid Warhead. Good nose module for targets with light armor, useless for anything else thanks to no increase in AP. AP Head Nose module that adds both AP and kinetic damage, also lets the shell fly faster than the Heavy Head. Good all-round nose module, use this for APHE shells or when you’re not sure what nose cap to use. Hollow Point Head Nose module that essentially turns kinetic damage into impact damage, works well with Solid Warheads. Impact damage ignores armor so this cap is good against light to medium armor. Shaped Charge Head (HEAT) This nose cap takes part of the explosive energy from HE warheads and uses it to blast a stream of superheated copper into the target, has a body variant to allow for multiple HEAT attacks in a single shell. This module is really good if for whatever reason you can’t have a fast shell in the gun and still need AP, ERA will block a single HEAT attack and spaced armor will negate some damage. Squash Head (HESH) Similar to HEAT, this nose module take some explosive energy from HE and uses it to create a shockwave that turns the interior part of the armor into deadly fragments. Good against hard targets with a lot of armor stacking, useless against spaced armor. Disruptor Conduit Nose module that uses all EMP to weaken planar shields if shell hits a shield, all payloads are weakened by 50% Pretty good for a specialized anti-shield gun, kinda useless for anything else. Penetration Depth Fuse Fuse that causes the shell to detonate a short distance after passing through a block as long as the shell has enough kinetic damage & AP to get through the block. Practically essential for APHE so the shell doesn’t detonate on contact with the target. Inertial Fuse Fuse that causes the shell to detonate if the shell’s angle changes too quickly past a certain threshold. Good for making your shell detonate on shields or detonate when the shell otherwise would’ve been deflected. Timed Fuse Fuse that causes shell to detonate after a certain amount of time has passed, works in conjunction with a Laser targeter to adjust the timing relative to target. Practically essential for any good AA gun, also good to help turn near-misses into partial hits with any explosive shells. Altitude Fuse Fuse will detonate shell after a certain altitude, works with Laser targeter to adjust the altitude relative to the target. Might be useful on an AA gun or a specialized depth charge gun? The existence of the Timed fuse seems to negate this one entirely. Emergency Ejection Defuse Prevents the shell from detonating after being thrown out of an Ammo Ejector. Pretty much a necessity if you’re using ejectors inside your craft. Base Bleeder Increases shell speed at the cost of accuracy, only goes on the rear of the shell. Useful for pretty much every shell as long as you’re not trading casing space for it. Visible Tracer Increases the accuracy of the next shot as long as the gun fires fast enough and both shells have similar speeds, however active defenses will pick up the shell more easily, only goes on rear of shell. Good for high Rate of Fire (RoF) guns and especially AA guns where accuracy and RoF are usually paramount. Supercavitation Base Shell won’t bounce off water and greatly reduces drag while shell is in water, same warhead penalty as sabot. Good for dedicated anti-sub guns and underside airship guns, only goes on rear of shell. Graviton Ram Imparts force on target equal to the unmitigated recoil of the gun, only goes on rear of shell. Might throw off some shots from the enemy or even capsize them with larger guns but otherwise kind of useless. Stabilizer Fin Body Diametric opposite of the Base Bleeder, makes the shell more accurate at the cost of speed. Good for guns you want to be super accurate and those sniper shells mentioned earlier. Gravity Compensator Imparts a downward force on the shell to keep it more accurate over high trajectories. Good for mortars and other guns with really high firing arcs. Skimmer Tip The diametric opposite to the Supercavitation Base, causes the shell to bounce every time it hits water and increases the possible skim angle. No viable applications afaik.

Example Cannons

On top we have a 100mm, 500 RPM, 6-barrel design, below we have a 500mm, 24 RPM, single barrel design

Now that we’re free to discuss advanced cannon design let’s look at some examples starting with the 6-barrel design. Generally if you’re going for a high RoF on a gun you’ll want to go with a multibarrel since they provide a bonus to cooling, unless you going for a specific look or are making a very specialized cannon you’ll want to go with 6 barrels since that provides the biggest cooling bonus. As for gauge I always like to shoot for 100mm or more for my rapid-fire guns but you can go lower if you have to, 60mm is generally the bare minimum, anything below that and you might as well use a simple weapon for all the effectiveness it will have. For RoF I like to go for 500 RPM or more on my multibarrels, again you can go a bit lower, 400 RPM gives you a nice stream of bullets to work with, going any lower is generally reserved for guns with less than 6 barrels. if you want to copy the design all you need is the same amount of autoloaders, coolers, and recoil absorbers. sticking more clips on will keep the gun firing for longer and if you want to boost the RoF there’s 2 things you can do, you can stick on more autoloaders which means more cooling units and recoil absorbers making the gun more expensive, or you can shorten the shell being used in the gun which will reduce damage. If you want to use this design for AA you’ll generally want your shells to be moving at around 700-800 m/s, going higher tends to result in the projectile being only 1-2 modules long. Of course you’ll also want a laser targeter on the gun and a timed fuse on the shell for the most effective AA, if you want to see the shell I used it’ll be in a screenshot down below but generally any shell with flak or frag is good as long as you’re using timed fuses. Now with that out of the way let’s look some serious firepower.

As for the big boi gun, 500 mm is the absolute maximum gauge you can have an advanced cannon be, single-barrel designs like this tend to take up a lot of space so you’ll really only want to use this type of design on battleships or other very big crafts. Generally for large-caliber single-barrels you’ll want to shoot for around 30-ish RPM, obviously I wasn’t able to get there with this design but I reckon if you keep the same number of autoloaders and go with 4 clips on each instead of 3 that should do the trick. For an upper limit on fire rate I’d say around 60 RPM is the fastest you want for big shells like this, pushing it any higher tends to eat up a lot of internal space on the craft, potentially taking away some armor. For this design I used 4m autoloaders, if you want to do as much damage as possible with every shot you can use 8m shells but that tends to lower the fire rate quite a bit. If you’re planning on converting this to a railgun I wouldn’t push the fire rate past 30 RPM, even the most basic railguns tend to eat up a lot of energy and internal space especially if you’re using APHE shells so make sure you got a massive engine capable of outputting ridiculous amounts of power. Also limiting the maximum amount of power each bullet takes to fire can help in energy management as well as fire rate if you’re running out of space below decks. The last piece of advice I can give here is that sometimes reverse engineering enemy designs might provide some insight as to how to make better cannons, the Scarlet Dawn in particular are practically experts on railguns and big shells so booting up the designer and taking a look at their cannons might be very beneficial.

Of course as I mentioned earlier if you want to take a look at what shells I used there’s a screenshot below, the upper shell is used in the 500mm and the lower shell is used in the 100mm. As you can see for the 500 mm I just went for full HE with an intertial fuse, this is the most basic powerful shell you can make but if you’re going up against something with heavier armor you can swap out the nose for a HEAT nose. Meanwhile on the 100mm there’s a combination of HE and Flak with a timed fuse as well as a visible tracer, if you’re going for a CIWS cannon you can swap out the flak head for an HE or Frag head or swap out the HE body for Frag if you’re setting up a pure AA. The shell in the screenshot is a good dual-purpose shell if you stick both an AMCC and a LWC on the same turret, just make sure the AMCC has priority otherwise weird stuff might happen.

From the Depths: Here be pirates

Pretty sure propellers need clearance to operate @ 100%.That being said,a. I would advise pressing V while the ship is in operation to see the stats and specifically what the front and rear drag values are. Your speed should be greatly increased by streamlining the bowstern, Preferably down to a single block.Any flat surface perpendicular to direction of travel should be replaced with slopes, ideally.b. To that end, what I do is mount propellers internally, in a submerged box with proper clearance. Allows me to have a nice sleek hullform with plenty of propellor power..All in all looks pretty sweet! You’ll be needing all that dakka and more soon enough.Glad the super cavitation shells are working out—Aside: I would love it if FtD would let us save blueprints in a 3D Printable format. having models of some of my cruisers on my desk would be sweet…

How to From the Depths – Steam Solo

Overview

After playing this game for an embarrassing amount of time ive amassed a library of tips and tricks. Therefore ive compiled all my knowledge into one comprehensive guide to help new players not fumble around for 200 hours.

Prelude

So you’ve recently purchased From the Depths or your looking for tips. Well welcome to the party!

before you get into the meaty goodness of this guide I feel obligated to mention a few things.

1. If you’re unsure ASK SOMEONE

I cannot stress this enough if you have questions about anything ASK SOMEONE. there are numerous places to go if you have questions but here’s a list of some of the best places to go:

On Steam:
[link]
unlike many other games the discussion page is not only active but provides useful information. There are several people who are extremely knowledgeable in almost every mechanic

the two most prolific are:
[link] [link]
there are many more people willing to help you out but these two guys have personally assisted me on several occasions, Plus there really cool dudes.

(I am also personally active and more than willing to answer questions in the comment section of this guide itself)

The Wiki:

I am now aware fourgreenfields is actually updating the wiki before now it was totally useless, but hes really cleaned the place up

The Wiki: [link]
His profile: [link]
On Discord/Youtube:
[link]
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCoDrepkVq5BRICv2QO3uPmg

Not only is borderwise one of the best FTD youtubers but his discord is an awesome place to hang out and discuss the game. Sadly It’s not a craphole and if you are excessively based you’re gonna get banned

And if all else fails:
[link]
The forum is a pocket dimension filled with immortal litches whose shear knowledge will flay your mind and crush your very soul to fuel their 40 barreled cram cannons

jokes aside this is where the dev’s hang out if they cant answer your question they will consume your spleen for being a tzeentch worshiper, Tread lightly.

2. Experiment

Ok so you have escaped the forum alive with an unanswered question or you don’t wanna put up with anyone, well there are hundreds of vehicles built in to the game and thousands on the workshop so go in with a scalpel and dissect some ships. Better yet build a test platform and go wild!

3. Please be patient, And don’t give up

The jokes about peoples first ships taking 200 hours are shockingly honest. This game is going to be brutal until you get the hang of it.

Everything is going to seem unbearably obtuse, But once you crawl up the skill curve you will be amazed, if you just aren’t up to it there’s no shame in just taking a break. I’ve nearly smashed my keyboard in frustration only to come back 3 hours later and instantly realize the problem.

I’ve played 20+ Sandbox games a good portion of which where voxel based and none come anywhere close to this game, so please give FTD a chance, it really is worth the wait.

A note on mouse based building

Don’t use it

keyboard based building at first it will seem janky but its been optimized specifically for ftd and once you get the hang of it its amazing how quick and precise you can be, not to mention the earlier you start using it the less painful the switch will be.

How to hull

Not a whole lot concrete to put here, mainly because how you shape your hulls develops as you build more. But here’s some tips to get you started

1. You have a hotbar, Use it

in build mode you can assign blocks to your number keys, This can substantially speed up building.

2. USE BEAMS

if you’ve been a noob for around twenty minutes its likely someone has already screamed USE BEAMS at the top of there lungs at you already. The reason for this phrase becoming so prevalent is that beams are superior to blocks in every single aspect, But just to beat this dead horse I’m gonna list every aspect

1. Durability

1 metal blocks health=350

1 metal beams health=2100

350×4=1400

2100-1400=700

congrats using beams equals 700 free hp without any added cost!

2. Performance

using beams means you divide the blocks your computer has to process by 4, Thus increasing performance for you and your buddy’s. (Trust me the mutiplayer lag is already horrible

and does not need any help)

3. Crosshatching

This is going to get covered more thuroughly in the armor section. Essentialy leaks are a crapload easier to plug when using beams correctly

3. Boyancy

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Archimedes%27_principle

For your ship to float it needs to displace its own weight in water under the desired waterline. Too little under the waterline and it will sink

Tl;dr you need to have more under the water than over it

Example:

the ship doesn’t go that deep into the water but it makes up for it by being wide.

if you have enough engine power and are willing to mess with PID’s you can just take the easy route and use downward facing propellers to force your ship up out of the water (most onyx watch ships do this).

4. Stability

this handy quote from Samlow puts this way better than I could:

“How do I keep my ship from capsizing?

There are several methods of doing this. Looking at how real life ships are built is a good starting point though.

The cause of capsizing is often the point where the center of mass (CoM) crosses a point where the ships stability cannot stop it from moving. In easier words: the heavy part of the ship always wants to be as low as possible.

Waves will make your CoM move from side to side. As such you will need to design your ship considering stability. There is multiple ways of doing this:

– Heavy material keel. Can be suspended lower for higher effectiveness

– Wide vessel stability. Build your ship wide or with pontoons (catamaran style)

– Active stability enhancers. (Jet stablisers, hydrofoils, Jet engines)”

-Samlow FTD Q&A

Samlows profile: [link]
How to Armor

1. Heavy armor is bad and it should feel bad

A really common beginner mistake is overuse of heavy armor “Cuz it’as the bestist aramor in the whole game ekks dee =3 !!!1”. In reality heavy armor is best used sparcely to protect vital components like ammo and the mainframe.

1. Its way too expensive

One heavy armor beam costs 100 resource. To prove this is insane built a 4×4 metal wall with a spall liner and still had enough for a cool antenna, For the same price.

2. Its not that much better than layered metal

Here is one heavy armor beam boasting its 40 armor rating, But right next to it is 2.4 heavy beams

worth of metal with an even higher rating, Also this is only 3 beams thick if I line up 5

beams (the same price as 1 heavy beam) I get an armor rating of over 60!

3.Its as heavy as lead

That is not hyperbole on my part its exactly as heavy as lead

4. Emp

This isn’t really a downside when heavy armor is being used correctly (For ai bunkers) however if

your whole hull is heavy armor and the enemy has emp your gonna have a bad time

2. Crosshatching

Crosshatching is the practice of alternating beams orientation to create a stronger superstructure

On the left a simple stacked beam arrangement, On the right the same armor crosshatched

The same armor with holes punched in them

As shown in the screenshots in the event of a penetration crosshached armor makes a smaller hole, preventing following rounds from getting a free pass. It also helps prevent large explosions from shearing sections of hull away.

Tl;dr its not a huge deal but every little bit helps

3. Emp and how to counter it

Emp is a tricky devil that loves to suddenly rear its head at the worst possible moment.

1. Know the enemy

Emp works by flowing through metal to the most vulnerable component, frying it then moving on.

“Metal” includes things like aps/cram components,engine parts and almost everything that isn’t

wood or stone. Plus the “most vulnerable component” is usually the ai mainframe

2. The easy way

just sprinkle some surge protectors near vital ai components like lwcs and the mainframe and

you will be alright. However if the enemy is equipped with any sort of serious emp weapon they can

(and will) overwhelm the surge protectors and fry the mainframe

3. The right way

with one simple trick you can make your mainframe impossible to kill with emp!

A fully insulated ai bunker! Simply fully encapsulate your ai bunker with wood or stone and presto its impervious to emp

4. Spall Liners

Spall is created when a HESH shell impacts armor. HESH shells send a shockwave through armor regardless of thickness and creates fragments, The damage of these frags is based on the armor value of the inner layer of armor. These factors mean HESH is an extremely effective at shreading internals behind armor. The most effective way to counter HESH are spall liners

the test range equiped with 3 236mm HESH cannons

Bare metal after 7 rounds. As you can see HESH can wreak havok in an unprotected vehicle

Wood spall liner after 7 rounds. By switching the second layer with wood the damage is drasticaly reduced

A glass spall liner after 9 rounds. glass has the lowest armor rating of any material and is therefore the best spall liner, (be advised glass is total poo at stoping anything other than hesh)

p.s. slopes/wedges do count as an air gap and will spawn fragments, so if your willing to sacrifice looks they work really well

A note on Shields

Shields are a quick and easy way to drastically increase the survivability of your ships, just a couple notes.

1. Shield strength

Shields of strength 2.5 and under are really not worth the 300 resource of the projector, that 300

resource could be better spent on armor and the engine power could be used to push around said

armor. With shields above around 7.5 the exponential increase in the power cost means its actually

better to just get 2 shields of around strength 5, Because the hardware and fuel to power a high

strength shield will likely exceed the 300 resource of another projector.

2. disrupt shields

Sadly as far as I can tell disrupt shields are useless. Disrupt shields are intended to Disrupt the

path of a projectile. Except it costs the same amount of energy to run as a reflect shield and will still

set off inertial fuses. The only thing I could see using them for is for weird layering or spreading out

large amounts of cram fire? If you can come up with a use for them please enlighten me.

*As of 2020 they got removed Lol*

How to FEG (Fuel Engine Generator)

FEGs are one of the three primary methods of creating engine power which is required to do almost every action.

Here’s a basic FEG with every part straped to it

1. Carbs, Turbos, and Supers

Carbs are the more fuel efficient but less space efficient option. Carbs increase the power of

adjacent cylinders buy 100.

Turbochargers are interesting components witch kill 2 birds with one stone, Turbos

when given exaust gas and connected to a carb will increase the carbs high rpm efficiency and

cools the exaust gas (and due to the low power output of carb FEGs there usualy reving high).

Superchargers increase the low rpm efficiency of adjacent carbs since carb FEGs rev so high

these are really only useful in large engines

2. Injectors and Radiatiors

Injectors are much more powerful than carbs but are much trickier and chug fuel. Injectors

increase the power of ONLY 2 adjacent cylinders by 200.

Radiatiors can connect to the crankshaft or to cylinders and reduce the temp and reduce the fuel efficiency even further, This is necassary because without turbos to cool exaust gas

Injector FEGs can overheat causing the entire engine to shut down

This small engine produces 1000 power, not quite as good as an injector one of the same size but waaay more efficient. These tend run a bit hot due to the length the exaust has to travel, But not nearly as hot as injector FEGs

P.s. Don’t forget to change the settings in the FEGs menu (hit e on the engine block)

How to Steam engine

Steam engines are interesting because they skip the middleman and burn resource instead of fuel this also means there way less efficient, But even more powerful than injector FEGs.

This Backup steam engine puts out over 3000 power

1. Useage tips

Steam engines can be used as as the primary source of power for a vehicle but due to there

inefficiency the boilers need to be regulated (by acbs) when not in combat. I find there really useful

as emergency backups

2. Propellers

The main advantage to using a steam engine as the primary powerplant, Is Steam propellers. Steam

props can push large ships to blistering speed without much power loss.

This is the minimum amount of parts to power a propeller, you have to connect a prop to the prop

shaft to the reduction gear to an engine shaft to the engine itself.

A note on Ammo

Ammo barrels are both the most dangerous and most important components on a ship. Therefore you should strive to have as few as possible.

1. Ammo regen

Ammo barrels will very slowly regen ammo however this can be sped up massively by using ammo

processors witch will take resource and engine power to make 20 ammo per second. This means you should always check the ammo cost of your guns/missiles and never use more ammo storage

than is necessary.

2. Ammo explosions

When ammo barrels explode they will only do damage to blocks within 3 meters, so try to avoid

putting components closer than 3 meters.

How to simple Weapon

Simple weapons at first glance may seem to be useless and underpowered but if used correctly can be just as deadly as custom weapons

1. Cannons

The small cannon is inferior in every aspect except ammo cost and a slightly larger traverse.

The large cannon is a compact, reliable, and cheap weapon thanks to a whopping 15000 damage

with 2 armor pierceing. thanks to its supriseing damage a single large cannonball can destroy up to two wood beams and do 1k damage to a metal beam, this plus there cost makes them perfect for spamming dozens of cannonballs to peel off layers of exterior armor.

The autocannon is a fully automatic fixed gun that when mounted on a turret makes for cheap and

effective aa, Be warned though 6 of these puppy’s will burn through hundreds of ammo in seconds.

2. Rams and Drills

The simple and elegant solution to ship demolition, just accelerate to RAMMING SPEED! Although it is awe inspiring to watch two metal behemoths slam into eachother in a symphony of twisting metal and splintering wood, This does damage to both vehicles.

Rams solve the issue of mutual damage because they take no melee damage whilst multiplying

damage dealt. However be warned that once your vehicle has slowed to a halt rams will stop

doing damage and you will get stuck

Drills are an alright solution to getting stuck, But if possible use rams on spinblocks as they don’t take engine power and are scary effective.

3. Countering Melee

A quick side tangent: by sprinkling rubber blocks on your hull you can negate some of the

damage done by melee ships. Rubber wont stop dedicated melee components like rams but if the

enemy’s hull hits a rubber block it will sap away most of there speed, Causing them to get stuck

and become vulnerable to attack

4. Lasers

Lasers are an odd short range weapon that projects a 500m beam for 5 seconds that does 1600 damage with 10 armor pierceing. Its useful for wierd close range boats and heli’s

How to Cram Pie in ya facehole

Cram cannons are the go to battleship guns thanks to there simplicity and durability these guns can take a beating and dish one out.

A basic cram cannon

1. Gauge

cram cannons under 750mm are useless as any smaller and the damage is going to be pitiful for

the reload time, still I recommend never going under 1000mm

2. “Tetris”

Cram tetris refers to stacking cram components to get the maximum inside one turret. Here is a borderwise vid that explains this and how to construct a cram cannon:

The platform in the vid: [link]
3. Pellets

1. He pellets are the backbone (sometimes literaly) of most Cram cannons, They don’t explode but

they are the weakest component of a cram cannon. He pellets are also over twice as expensive

as any other pellet so these need to be hooked up to as may loaders as possible

2. Hardener pellets are the other most prevalent pellet, Not as strong as HE but pure ap crams are

a weapon to fear

3. Frag pellets are an extremely effective secondary as they enhance and extend the range of the

primary explosion

4. Emp pellets are tricky to pull of with HE but still amazing as a decent 2000mm emp cram has

enough emp in it to fry every vulnerable component or melt several heavy armor beams

4. Fuses

Fuses are a crucial component of a good cram cannon as without fuses a low velocity round (read every round from a cram cannon) will regularly bounce off a single layer of metal. Also fuses take up space in the shell and reduce the payload so don,t shove 5 fuses in your shells.

1. High/Low altitude fuses are an oddball fuse useful for HE/Frag bombs, Or if for some reason

your using cram for AA these might come in handy.

2. Time from launch Is perfect for frag Crams just set this to -0.05 and watch DWG ships

Disintegrate. Is also great for HE/Frags when set to -0.01. P.s. you need a laser targeter to set

this fuse

3. Inertial fuses are required Cram shells fly soo slow that they bounce off angled wood

you have to have inertial fuses . The only issue with this fuse is its gotta be sensitive enough

to go off on a ricochet but not water, I find 15 degrees works pretty good

4. Pen depth/ time from impact These two both work best with AP/He or AP/Frag but are useful for different circumstances. Pen depth is best for detonating right behind layers of metal. Time from impact is best for lightly armored targets where the shell might just fly right through without hitting x blocks i.e. DWG or planes

5. Common Combos

1. HE/Frag one of if not the best combos is HE/Frag you get the brutal explosion damage plus

frags to ensure you don’t miss, Just be sure to throw in a timed fuse set to -0.01

2. HE/EMP This combo is kinda tricky because if you dont add enough (under 1/3rd) emp the HE

can destroy the metal before the EMP flows through it. But the results speak for themselves, even

as an assist the EMP is more than capable of frying whole ships, Plus the tracers are purple!

3. HE/AP Pretty standard round, Its sadly underpowered

4. Pure AP you haven’t lived until you have seen a 2000mm fridge bisect a whole ship. Jokes aside

Pure AP can do horrifying amounts of kenetic damage

5. Frag/AP very similar to HE/AP but is cheaper and can use timed fuses more effectively

6. Barrels

Generaly you want go for 50/50 Motor driven/Normal barrel with a elevation at one of the ends so you get 80 degree vertical traverse plus decent velocity, Other then that most of the barrels are self explanatory i.e. Does x at the cost of velocity. The only really notable barrel is the flash supression barrel because it makes the rounds harder to shoot down.

7. Packing time

Thanks to a recent rework you can now manually mess with the packing time of cram cannons. I recommend setting this to around 25-33ish% as packing density scales exponentially with time and above 1/3 the packing time tends to get ridiculous

8. Auto pellet assignment

There is also a auto pellet feature, as of now it is really poorly labled and a pain in the rear to wrestle an acceptable result out of. I just reccomend avoiding this like the plauge as at best it seems to be a tool for emergency refits and at worst a great way to mangle a perfectly good gun.

How to Cannon (Warning: Advanced)

1.Gauge snakeing

Since how the gauge coolers need to be aranged relies on soo many variables I cant really give exact tips so only a couple things to note:

On the left is one continuous gauge and on the right a much more durable branched design

1. Try to avoid going in one continuous line as if a single component breaks as it can disable huge

chunks of the gun. Thanks to the left and right splitters having two outputs, with a little effort you

can get a much better arrangement

Above is an inefficient and and fragile design, As not only is there unnecessary splitters but they are above deck

above is a much better design, As it uses a simple split buried deep in the turret

2. Just keep it simple and below deck, Most of the time turrets get disabled is due to a hit

above deck so the less complex snaking above the deck the better

3. And another borderwise vid

How to APS

1. Prelude

The Advanced projectile system is a massive beast to even describe therefore if I fail to mention something its not due to negligance its because mentioning every notable aps component would be an essay all in its own. Please experiment for yourself

The flak monkey, The patron saint of APS users

2. Heads

although a head isn’t required they have much better drag, And have unique effects

1. Explosive heads i.e. Frag,HE,and EMP are useful for very short shells where the only spot

for the payload is the head, And pure explosive shells

2.The composite head is the odd middle ground between AP/Sabot and generaly only used for

getting explosive shells to go faster, Due to the fact in any other roll there inferior to the other two

AP heads

3.Sabot/AP The AP twins to put it simply use AP for HEAP shells and Sabot for pure AP or smoke.

To put it in a more complicated light The question of weather to use Sabot or AP head for pure

armor pierceing shells is a complex debate As the Sabot head has, velocity, ap value, and No frag

chance but the AP head has more health and an insane 10x modifyer to kenetic damage. Really its up to your own preferance

4. Hollow points are not that useful in there intended role of ok velocity pure ap (except in high rpm guns),But since this head has no chance to bounce its extremely useful for pure HE as this allows you to, replace the inertial fuse with more payload, get a kenetic damage boost, and get a much higher speed.

5. HEAT used to be op as heck but it got nerfed into obscurity, One of the only use for it now is to use It to pass through exxxtra thicc armor and shields

6. HESH is HEATs way cooler older brother. I already covered how HESH spalling works in the

armor section but needless to say in 236mm+ HESH is brutaly effective against bare metal. Plus

like hollow points HESH wont ever bounce

7. Disruptor conduits are one of the best anti shield weapons in the game, Not much to comment

on here

3. Warheads

the literal bread and butter of your shells

1. Flak !!Has been buffed as of 2020 at some point the hard cap on explosions was lifted/raised and now flak works just as advertised now its just as good if not better than frag!! When used with timed fuses flak can melt surface components and pulverize wood/wings/whole planes, just be sure the shell is above 80mm and set your laser targeter to -0.01

2. EMP its nowhere near as good as Cram EMP but if you wanna sprinkle a little surprise in a long

HE shell these are perfect

3. HE High explosive the standard warhead, Great for most uses just be careful with detect range

because these can be pretty fragile

4. Frag aka canister shot aka holy cow where did my wing go? Similar to Cram Frag just set some

of these puppys to 90+ degrees and watch the carnage

5. Hmm what if instead of smoking my vehicle I shot it at the enemy… Genius! Smoke is the best

anti laser weapon as it Disables the enemy’s lasers while keeping your LAMS unaffected. With a

Sabot head and inertial fuse these baby’s can ruin a Lightning hoods day

4. Rear components

the components exclusive to the back of the shell

1. Graviton ram aka the meme that kills, these might seem like a joke but when configured correctly

can cripple ships or send planes into inescapable dives

2. Supercap for when you need a minigun on your sub, 75% might seem like it ruins the shell BUT

notice it doesn’t mention frags. Also has max length

3. Base bleeders are useful for getting extra velocity from shells thanks to the max length effect

4. Tracers are pretty self explanatory but they have max length

5. Max length. 3 of the 4 shell rears have a max component length of 100mm (some fuses do too but the max length vary’s). What this means is you can squeeze these where they really don’t belong, For example you can put a base on a 300mm 2 component 1 case shell and it will fit in a one meter rack. Thus max length is an important factor in clipless Aps guns

5. Component drag

For some reason components have a hidden drag value

a properly ordered shell

the order of least to most drag goes:

1. heads

2. solid body’s

3. fuses

4. warheads

5. fins and bases

you have to arrange sells in this order for maximum speed.

Standard Aps Shells

Although I explained a good portion of the Aps components I felt it prudent to add a couple shells I use frequently to give a good starting point/examples of decent functional shells. Also be warned most of these shells are abnormally short/lacking in gunpowder and velocity

1.Standard HESH
[link]
Here’s the small HESH shell I use frequently sadly HESH got nerfed recently, even so I still love these in 300mm cause you can cram em into a one meter autoloader

Module Settings Squash head HE Warhead Special Factor 9.0 Tracer Idk I prefer 4 Casing With one these will fit in a 1m autoloader

Recommended Gauge: 236+

2.Standard Flak
[link]
A very effective little shell works really well in the Aps simple weapons. If flak gets nerfed frags set to 120 work as well. Warning a laser targeter must be installed on your gun to set timed fuses

Module Settings Flak head Could be subbed with 120 Frag Timed fuse Set Laser targeter to -0.01 Flak warhead Could be subbed with 120 Frag Casing Usualy just two

Recommended Gauge: 94-180+

3.Standard HE
[link]
“Cause vanilla isn’t a bad flavor” A bog standard pure HE shell it hits things and goes boom. I never really got the point of pure as if you want HE Cram does it waaaay better, but hey to each his own.

Module Settings Warhead Inertial fuse Around 0-10 degrees Mo Warhead after about 3-5 switch type to avoid the efficency debuff Casing

Recommended Gauge: 80+

5.Knockoff HESH Hybrid Shell
[link]
An interesting little hybrid shell that provides a decent payload, no bounce chance, and a little bit of Kinetic damage. Be warned this one isn’t gonna work against much more than the DWG as shields will still bounce these really easy, the kinetic isn’t that good unless its going 500m/sec+, and this shell doesn’t scale with size as well as pure HE/HEAP

Module Settings Hollow point head Warhead Sub with any warhead Base bleeder Sub with any min length base/more powder Casing With one these will fit in a 1m autoloader

Recommended Gauge: 236+

5. Smoke sabot
[link]
Getting a smoke warhead to hit a decent LAMS system is normally quite hard until you realize that sabot heads 75% debuff doesn’t affect smoke, allowing you to hit em via speed and respectable shell health (Plus the kinetic damage doesn’t hurt)

Module Settings Sabot Head Inertial fuse Set to 0-10 degrees Smoke warhead Casing

Minimum Gauge: 200 (Under 200 and the smoke doesn’t deploy)

6. Anti Shield
[link]
Say hello to the best anti shield shell in the game mix a couple of these into your main gun and watch the shields melt

Module Settings Disruptor conduit Inertial fuse Set to 0-10 degrees Emp warhead Casing

Recommended Gauge: 200+

Note on missile gauge

Missiles now come in 3 different sizes Small, Medium, And Thicc. Small missiles are only useful en mass as they get a limited selection of parts. Medium missiles are what you should be using, They get the full parts selection and are generaly more destructive than small missiles. Thicc bois are for memelords and massive ships that have 12000 ammo to burn. However with a decent design Thicc bois can become unstoppable battering rams that make tactical nukes look like firecrackers, Just don’t rely on them too much

How to Miss(ile)

Missiles are odd, but effective weapons/utilities that stay relevant thanks to there ability to ignore shields and self guidance capabilities

1. Noses

Noses determine how your missile homes in on a target (if at all)

1. Thumper heads

useful for speeding up remote missiles, magnet torp’s, dumbfire, and laser riders

2. Infra-red

literal heat seeking missiles, they will home in on the hottest thing on a ship, Most of the time this is the engine/jets.

2a. Single pixel IR

Works the same as IR but the missiles go much faster at the cost of the missile having weird

guidance issues. Single pixel seekers have only 70 degree detection cone (normal IR has 120)

And they cannot see directly ahead All this means that the missile will oscillate in flight, This can

become a serious issue if you’ve got too many fins or are using frags

2b. Troubleshooting

If you are having trouble with your IR missiles don’t forget that the detection tool will highlight all heat

sources on any vehicle and helps a ton when designing IR missiles

3. Lasers

Wherever you/your ai points the missile laser, The missile goes there. Honestly I prefer the rider

receiver. Laser seekers are best if your using missiles as your main weapon as you can focus all

your firepower onto one point, However if someone pops smoke your Laser guided missiles

are useless

4. Active Radar

AR missiles will home in on the biggest flattest surface above water, And are (in my opinion) the

most reliable missiles. AR missiles are usualy reliable thanks to there ability to ignore

flares/smoke

(Just recently they added radar flares Shhhh)

5. Torp sonar

Not much to put here if your underwater use it. If you are above water don’t use it

6. Interceptors

Ill use missiles to kill missiles! Memes aside interceptors (if designed correctly) they

are great at defending large ships from cruse missiles. Also interceptors are (arguably) the most

cost effective way to destroy large missiles and long torps

2. Control components

1. Fins

Just put em at the rear infront of the thruster, they are effective on the front aswell but have

increased drag

2. Turning thrusters

Fins on Roid’s, much stronger but less accurate, best used with fins to offset the bad accuracy

3.Laser beam rider

Will make the missile follow the path of the laser meaning even in the event of the laser being destroyed the missile will stay its course. In my

opinion its superior to the standard laser head

4. APN

Forces the missiles to trim with the fins. Extremely useful for cruse missiles and torp’s And required for thrusterless missiles

5. One turn

Allows the ai to control the missile for a short pierod only really useful for vertically launched

missiles and torp’s. I recommend delaying thruster ignition and adding a turning thruster instead

but that’s just my preferance

6. Target Prediction

I strongly recommend against using this for anything other than in a surface to air role. But be

warned if your missile isn’t hitting this wont fix it, If your missiles wont hit try

laser missiles or use APN otherwise its probably

a design problem that compromised targeting wont fix anyways

7. Remote guidance

your ai controls the missile, similar to laser but it uses a ton of gppu to do it. I recommend only using this on large missiles because remote

missiles have no practical counter, otherwise if you want ai controlled missiles just use lasers

3.Utilities

1. Ballast tanks

useful for depth charges and torp’s

2. Harpoons

in perfect conditions these could be used for ramming, but unless your vehicle is covered in rams

these just tend to get both you and the enemy killed

3.Magnets

How do they work? Memes aside magnets are amazing for small missiles, dumbfire torps, depth

charges, mines, and long torps. Magnets work by pulling the missile towards the nearest vehicle

(the amount of metal doesn’t matter only the center of mass does) be warned that this also

includes your own vehicles regardless of the identify friend or foe module, So its wise to include

safety fuses with magnets

4.flares

flares are a cheap and effective way to throw off large missile swarms And in the case of sticky

flares an odd way to designate IR missiles

Standard missiles

Throughout this guide I included my ammo recommendations in a small sub-section but due to the unique nature of missiles (the ammo is the weapon system) Missiles necessitate there own category. These are just some standard designs and I implore you to tinker with them to fit your playstyle
[link]
Module Settings Magnet Range:max Start:just long enough for the mine to get away from the vehicle launching it 2 Frag warheads 90-180 Degrees Safety Fuse free internal space should be set to EMP

Here is a versatile bomb/mine usualy 4-10 of these bad boys are enough to fry small OW ships or make great area denial.

Module Settings Radar Seeker Activation delay should be 0.1 Frag warhead 100-180 Degrees APN Gain:3.2 Fins Free internal Space should be set to EMP

This is one of (if not) my favorite missile a Simple and Cheap Guided explosive. I love to strap about 4 of these to a ship and watch as they manage to tear off barrels and detection systems

(Be sure to use Ejectors)

Module Settings Missile interceptor Activation delay should be 0.1 explosive warhead Fuel tank 2 Fins Variable Thruster Ramp up:1.5 Thrust:1200 Delay:0

A nice simple interceptor, Switch the thruster with a torp prop and it works great underwater

Module Settings Radar Seeker Activation delay should be 0.1 Turning Thruster Delay:0.5 Max Fuel:32% 2 Frag warheads 100 Degrees 2 Fuel tanks Fins Short range thruster Start delay:5

Here it is! My standard medium range missile. This missile is setup to get thrown clear via 2-4 ejectors, Turn to face the largest target via its turning thruster, then light the main engine and slam into the target at considerable speed (And hopefully evadeing LAMS and interceptors along the way)

Module Settings Torp sonar Activation delay should be 0.1 3 Explosive warheads 2 Fuel tanks Fins Torp prop Ramp up:0 Thrust:1000

Here is My standard Torpedo, Good for screwing subs and punching holes in ships

Module Settings Radar Seeker Activation delay should be 0.1 Fins 2 Frag warheads 100-120 Degrees Fuel tank TPG Set free internal space to reinforcement Fins Variable thruster Ramp up:0.5 Thrust:2500 Delay:4

Now I present to you the VLS surface to air missile of n2galaxys design! (from my limited test run) I found that it will kill most anything in the sky, And with a little more tinkering im sure you could tune it into a squirrel killer

n2galaxys profile: [link]
Module Settings Missile interceptor Activation delay should be 0.1 Fuel tank Fins Variable thruster Ramp up:2.5 Thrust:50

Heres a mini interceptor by Royal cat, And in his own words:

“For a simple and relatively cheap missile/torpedo defense you can make use of 1 block small launchers. By using a variable thruster, fins, fuel tank and missile interceptor, this is a perfectly capable missile defense, which is only more effective in large swarms.”

Royal cats profile: [link]
How to PAC, Man by n2galaxy

A PAC firing piece

Ive never built a PAC before but after posting this guide n2galaxy (Awsome dude from the prelude) offered to write this section.

“The Particle Accelerator Cannon (PAC) Is what you might call a “generic customizable weapon” that fires a laser-like beam at instantaneous velocities at the cost of electricity. Everything else is yours to customize. The firing piece of the PAC is very large (3x3x3) and the beam is most often shot directly from it. The bulk of the PAC system is made up of accelerator tubes, which are simply pipelines that extend from five asymmetrical ports on the firing piece. The longer the tubes are, the more damage and energy cost you get. You can have multiple beams in one shot.

The particles must launched from the firing piece, through the tubes, and then either back into the firing piece or out of a lens. There are three ways to do this. The first and most simple is the terminator. Terminator use is simply running a pipe from the PAC, slapping a terminator on the end, and then the particle will use the pipe it came from to get back to it’s firing piece. The second is a particle input port, which requires you to run a pipe from the firing piece and back into it, placing an input port as the last pipe. Input ports do double the damage but reduce the amount of beams you can have per shot by using two ports on the firing piece. The third and most unique is the accelerator lens. It is placed after your pipeline without returning to the firing piece and simply firing from itself. These do half damage but allow you to hide your firing piece deep in your ship, unlike other methods that require the main block to be the frontmost one.

Customizing the PAC is relatively simple. Everything but the piping is done via firing piece GUI which looks like so:
[link]
-Horizontal/Vertical focus allows you to make a PAC more accurate in one direction and less in the other. This is good for turreted PAC that need no horizontal focus but maximum vertical.

-Field of fire allows you to control how far from the center your cannon can shoot. Shots farther from the center are less accurate.

-Damage and Inaccuracy allows you to increase damage at the cost of accuracy or vise versa.

-Damage and attenuation allows you to increase damage at the cost of effective range. (More on that later.)

-Efficient/Overclock alloys you to increase damage but drastically increase energy cost. Good for ships with energy to spare, but without space for large cannons.

-Charge time simply the reload. It can be anywhere from .1 seconds to 10 seconds. (Spoiler: 10 seconds is best.)

Color is self-explanatory I do hope.

The damage type is quite important. Piercing (default) beams go through thick armor with thin holes. Great for mainframe-sniping but not very useful for shredding hulls. EMP simply creates an EMP charge upon impact with no kinetic damage. Explosive-shock is an inferior, knock-off impact. Impact is an excellent choice for cannons with excessive damage to make enormous holes in the target.

Attenuation is the rate in which the beam loses damage over range. Skipping the boring math stuff, 1 is best for 1km and under, 0.5 is best for 2km, 0.25 is best for 4km, ect.”

-n2galaxy pesumibly written during a break between sorting Fentanyl and driving tanks

His profile: [link]
Note on -={LAZERS/}=-

Really the hardest part of building a Laser is just getting an engine big enough to to power it.

1. Continuous or Pulsed?

Continuous lasers are garbage they used to make cool LAMS but that just got nerfed so there just useless now. 4Q pulsed lasers are the way to go for anything and everything

2. How may doublers?

For LAMS you dont actualy need any doublers just a Destabilizer or two. For offensive lasers you need at least 30 AP

Note on A.I.

1. try to avoid excess general processing cards those are expensive.

2. Use or at least try intra-vehicle transmitters they are really good.

3. strap a snooper to your mainframe there good aswell

4. if your ship is acting up try ai pids those help

5. idk man you just gotta tinker with the ai ALOT the ai setup and the ship have a symbionic relationship soo fragile even a couple thruster’s can wreck (or fix) the whole thing so I really cannot help you, read the tooltips and good luck

How to Detection system

Detection systems are your literal eyes and ears, So its importent to use them effectively

Pictured are the three types detection systems From left to right: The bearing detectors, Range detectors, and the misc detectors.

1. Bearing detectors

Bering detectors are used for detecting the ships heading so they can predict the position of the ship.

1. Cameras are cheap and are (arguably) the best bearing detectors, The biggest

downside is the large Gppu cost

2. Ir have a much faster refresh, half the gppu cost, are more durable, and cant be seen by

retroreflectors But theres also several downsides i.e. There up to 4x the price, Cant see through

glass, are half as effective at detecting, and there slightly bigger (last one isnt as bad because of

the health increase)

2. Range detectors

Pretty self explanitory, Predicts the range of enemys

1. Coincidence rangefinders, One of the best ways to detect range its relaitively innaccurate but

makes up for it with bearing detection, 1.25x range, and it can look through glass.

2. Radar is more compact, accurate, and has a higher refresh than Coincidence rangefinders. But

cannont look through glass so is less durable.

3. Laser rangefinder, An odd but effective way to detect range. The laser rangefinder cannot

see through smoke, And you have to have excelent bearing detection so the “lock on” time isnt

too long (yes it takes a while to lock on). It makes up for this by being the most accurate range

detector and a 0.1 gppu cost, Thus its perfect to supplement an already complete sensor package

3. Passive detectors

the detectors that work off your enemys detectors

1. Passive radar, Not as useful as you would think because few campain enemys use radar

2. Passive sonar, Extremely useful as not only will it give you excelent readings on every sub but it alows your LAMS to shoot torpedos

3. Retroreflection Sensor, An awesome addition to arrays as it only takes 0.1 gppu and will give excelent bearing and range on any cameras in its line of sight

4. The misc options

These are the options that are both less used or dont fit as neatly into the other two

classifications.

1. The wireless snooper, An extremely useful detector that gives decent readings on ships with

wireless transmitters (read almost every ship). This makes it great for getting your primary sensor

package pointed at the enemy, Thus reducing the need for 360 detectors (as 360 detectors take a

ton of gppu for poo readings).

2. The intra vehicle transmitter, Makes your ship more obvious to snoopers. But it transmits all

detection data to friendly ships and is extremely useful.

3. Bouys when used in tandom with there missile parts just act like there 360 counterparts but

detached from the vehicle

4. Sonar, Not much to put here if your underwater use it. If you are above water dont use it (sonar

has a huge gppu cost)

5. USE THE DETECTION TOOL

The best way to see what the heck is going on is via the detection tool, to access it click the middle mouse button and enable it via the top right, it will display range error as well as detection signatures

6. Closing note

When designing your ship be sure to have one range detector one bearing detector and a snooper.

That combo should yield decent results if you have any trouble, Or want to improve accuracy be sure to use the detection tool

Epilogue

Thanks for reading the whole guide! If you have any questions or see any huge errors please comment ill be more than happy to talk with you.

1. Shameless plug
[link] [link]
If you liked the guide you might like my ships, So here are the links.

2. Realistic expectations

please take everything in this guide with a grain of salt, As it might become outdated or just be inferior to other methods. This guide is intended to teach you the basics, Not as a holy scripture to follow by the letter. As I said at the start please just ask around, I’m just one idiot who took the time to write a guide.

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