How To Build A Flip Braai? 97 Most Correct Answers

South Africans love braai and socializing with friends and loved ones. With a built in braai this is an easy task.

Luckily, South Africa has an abundance of built-in braai’s.

If you are considering adding a built in braai to your home, there are a few things to consider.

Plan your built in braai

1: Decide where the built in braai will be. This is an important decision as this can be both indoors and outdoors.

2: Determine how much space is available for the braai, space to prepare your meals and seating for your guests.

3: Calculate the height of the base of the braai. The subsoil should be stable and level and not too low; approx. 750mm – 950mm from the ground.

4: Add a log storage area. This can be under the base or on the side in a separately built cavity.

5: Depending on the space available, add storage for utensils and other nearby items.

Set up your braai

If you have never installed a braai before, it is advisable to hire a professional to do it. Things to consider:

1: Solid retaining masonry.

2: The height of the chimney – the minimum would be 3.5 meters to properly draw off the smoke.

3: The internal dimensions of the chimney cavity should ideally match those of the built-in grill vent.

4: Isolation from other combustible materials such as B. Wood storage.

5: Allow for expansion joints between the brickwork and the built-in grill.

6: Install a hood to prevent rain from entering the chimney and damaging your grill.

7: Rotating hoods work best for windy areas and prevent drafts on windy days.

8: Sealing around the chimney connection.

9: Protects your braai from harsh elements such as wind and rain.

With these points in mind, once your built in braai is complete and smoke is emerging from the front of the grill, look inside the chimney to make sure there are no obstructions.

Also, start burning in your new built-in fireplace by starting a small fire and letting it burn slowly over a period of time. This will help the built in braai to settle or heal and burn away any factory debris that might still be on the braai structure.

Home decor and DIY expert Janice Anderssen shows how to replace that wobbly braai with a built-in bench. The bench is built from special concrete blocks, which can easily be replaced with clay or cement bricks. Dig the area up to 100mm deep and fit it to the bench, spacing the formwork to match rows of blocks to avoid cutting. Mix and pour the concrete slab, sweep it across the formwork with a sawing motion, smooth to a smooth surface and allow to dry. Use a square and ruler combination to mark the bank. Roll out a layer of Aluminum Dampening Coating (DPC) where the blocks will lie, creating a slip line between the blocks and the concrete. Mix the mortar and spread it onto the DPC to a thickness of 10mm using a trowel. To bed the first layer, tap the end blocks into position, apply adhesive to the butt ends of the blocks with a notched trowel, position and check with a level. Position the second layer so that the vertical joints overlap by at least 100mm. Apply grout to the first layer and to the blocks and tap to close the vertical joints to 2mm. Lay the third layer to match the first layer. Check and adjust the plate with the third layer. Apply grout to the third layer with a notched trowel, lift the 75mm thick slab and place it on top of the grout, tapping to make it level. Apply construction adhesive to the panel and along the inside faces of two 600 x 200 x 200mm blocks and fasten. Glue a 100mm wide block to the other end of the panel. Cut a 18mm wide x 5mm deep rabbet at the ends of the door header, glue and screw to the pillars. Drill two clearance holes through each spar and attach the frame to the blocks using 100mm x 14g zinc plated bugle head self tapping screws. Assemble the doors, trim the final boards, leaving a 3mm gap on each side and 2mm in the centre, and apply Alcolin wood glue to the edges and clamp. Cut the struts and fasten with zinc plated screws (30mm x 8g). Align hinges with brace and attach to doors and stiles. Finish the doors with Woodoc 30 Low Gloss Polywax Exterior Sealer. Finish the bricks with a coat of Coprox Dualcote for a decorative finish and allow to dry. Tile the top with tiles of your choice – we have used mosaic tiles to match the decorative mosaic panel hanging over the grill – including the panel under the grill. Article courtesy of www.home-dzine.co.za Click here for more home design ideas. If you have a question or comment about Janice Anderssen, email us here. Click here to read more real estate news. Start your own blog with a free blog from 24.com.

Firebricks (or refractory bricks) are grossly oversized in a home fireplace or braai. They are also expensive and not readily available. Refractory bricks are usually rated upwards of around 1600°C – a braai will never reach that heat.

Any adobe or half-faced (fired) brick can be used for a braai. Facing bricks are fired at around 1000-1250°C to stabilize their structure and have a high thermal mass which helps them insulate heat. The heat in the chimney would have to be higher to have an effect on the brick.

Concrete brick or other regular concrete products made from Portland cement cannot withstand high temperatures and will break down at the temperatures required by a pizza oven or grill.

Excessive heat can cause cement and mortar to crumble between the bricks. Build the skin of the sides of the grill/fireplace using a standard mortar mix (1 bag of cement : 3 Barrows Sand) with Brickforce and cavity binders. Build up the inner skin with a well-fired clay cladding brick (FBX) with a weaker mix (1 bag : 6 Barrows Sand) – this allows for more joint movement and reduces cracking from heating.

The base is usually the area that receives the most heat since the fire rests on it. A clinker paver or solid brick should be laid here on a bed of sand. Do not cement bed or grout – it must have some movement to allow for expansion/contraction through heating and cooling. The bricks/pavers at the opening to the braai can be grouted as an edge trim. The fire is generally never built right at the opening so they don’t get as much heat. The grouting of these prevents the pavers behind them from falling out/loosening. It looks like a curb.

For the side walls or a raised bed, you can use an air hardening refractory cement (as opposed to a refractory refractory cement) and minimize the joint spacing between bricks – use “buttered joints” i.e. H. the stones must be very close together.

How to calculate the number of bricks needed

One of the most difficult aspects of building a brick structure is determining how many bricks you need. Ordering too few can potentially delay your project, while over-ordering is a quick way to throw money down the drain. Bricks are expensive and the cost of your masonry work can add up quickly, especially when you have to organize disposal of excess bricks. It’s a lot easier to get it right the first time.

How many stones do I need?

For a single-skin brick wall, multiply the length of the wall by the height to get the area. Multiply that area by 60 to get the number of bricks you should need, then add 10% for waste.

That’s the short answer and assumes “standard” brick and mortar sizes. It can also vary depending on the type of structure. For the full answer, read on…

1. Determine the type of structure

The first step is to determine what you want your bricks to be used for. While it may sound simple, bricks have many different uses, from building a simple garden wall, to building a fireplace surround, to the exterior of your home. The bricks you choose and the type of structure you are going to build can dramatically affect the amount needed. To help you, below is a list of common wall types.

Half-brick walls

A wall that is half a brick (or a single layer) thick has a width equal to the width of one brick. The runner side (long side of the brick) is exposed when the bricks are laid horizontally. If you are using a UK standard brick this means your wall is 65mm wide. This type of wall can be used as an exterior wall and placed over a solid interior wall system for added stability, or it could be a simple garden wall. Half-brick walls should not be used for load-bearing or structural purposes.

Safety can also be a big issue for freestanding half brick walls as they have limited structural support meaning the taller your wall is the more unstable it becomes. Strong winds can wreak havoc and turn your masonry into a pile of rubble! Strict height restrictions must be observed, and brick piers must be strategically placed at various points along the wall. It is generally recommended that a half brick thick wall not be higher than 500mm, although it is always best to seek professional advice. A wall that is half a brick thick requires 60 bricks per square meter when using standard bricks.

Half-Brick Thick Wall = 60 bricks per square meter

Thick walls of one stone

A wall one brick (or two layers) thick is as wide as the long edge of a brick, so your wall will be 215mm wide (standard UK brick size). It consists of two different layers that alternate between a running track and a head track. A course of stretchers is laid so that the long edge of the brick is exposed and is at least two bricks thick. While the top course is laid so that the short side of the brick is exposed, the structural integrity of the wall is greatly increased.

One brick thick walls can be free standing and are recommended for anything over 600mm in height. A one brick thick wall will require 120 bricks per square meter when using standard sized bricks.

Thick wall of one brick = 120 bricks per square meter

Brick Pillars / Pillars

Need to include piers in your project? Pillars are vertical structures that add strength to masonry walls. Commonly used as support structures, pillars can also support beams for pergolas, hold up garden gates and even add a decorative element to your wall.

Pillars are designed to be freestanding and your wall may need to contain multiple pillars depending on size. For example, a free-standing half-brick wall requires two end columns (one on each side). An intermediate pier (used in the middle of a wall for support) can be added in addition to your end piers for half-brick walls exceeding 4 meters.

A single brick pier requires an additional 14 bricks per foot of height, while a much larger one and a half brick pier requires 34 bricks per foot of height. It is important to include these measurements in your final calculation.

Single Brick Pier = 14 bricks per meter of elevation

One and a half Brick Pier = 34 bricks per vertical meter

2. Determine the surface

After choosing the type of wall and the required number of piers, the next step is to determine the finish. To find out, you need to measure the length and height of your planned structure.

The area is calculated by multiplying the length of your masonry by the height. For example, if you build a wall 6 meters long and 1.5 meters high, the area is 9 m2 (6 meters long x 1.5 meters high = 9 m2). Make sure you only give the measurements for the wall as all the pillars need to be calculated separately and added at the end.

Area = wall length x wall height

3. Calculate how many bricks you need

Take your area measurement and multiply it by the type of wall you are building (e.g. half brick, single brick or other). This will give you the number of bricks you need for your wall. In our example above, a half-brick wall with an area of ​​9m2 requires 540 bricks (9m2 x 60 bricks per square meter = 540 bricks in total).

Half brick wall = area x 60

A brick thick wall = area x 120

Add extra extras like piers and squandering. For example, if your masonry contains two free-standing single-sided piers 1.5 meters high, this would require an additional 42 bricks.

Single Brick Pillar = Vertical Meter x 14

One and a half brick piers = vertical meter x 34

Don’t forget waste! It is common for bricks to become damaged while being moved or unloaded at construction sites, and brick cuts may not work as expected. It is important to allow for approximately 10% wastage to account for situations that may arise. While you may not use all of the extra bricks, it’s important to have them on hand when needed.

Brick waste = 10% of the total required

It’s finally time to put everything together! Continuing with our example of a 6 meter long, 1.5 meter high half brick wall, with two piers and trimmings, we can calculate the number of bricks as follows:

Quantity for brick wall: 9 m2 (area) x 60 (half brick thick wall) = 540 bricks

Two single brick piers: 1.5m (vertical height) x 14 = 42 bricks

10% waste: 58.2 stones

Total Stones Required: 640.2 Stones required

4. Important Considerations

An important consideration to keep in mind is the size of your brick. A standard UK metric brick is 215 x 102.5 x 65mm, with mortar joints of 10mm vertically and horizontally.

However, if your project involves imperial bricks (perhaps 225 x 110 x 73mm) you will need around 57 per square metre. For UK standard blocks (440 x 215 x 100mm) you will need ten blocks per square metre. All calculations are based on a 10 mm mortar joint. We encourage you to check with us before placing your order.

Accurate estimates are crucial

Accurately calculating the number of bricks required is critical to the success of your masonry project. Get it wrong and you could end up paying for multiple brick shipments, risking storage problems, or spending way too much and having to store or sell bricks. Follow these calculations and you’ll have the perfect amount the first time! If you are still unsure, our team will be happy to help you with your brick purchase, whether you are assembling, selecting or simply buying bricks.

What is “Minor Construction”?

Whatever you build on your property needs plans unless it is “minor construction work”. Despite this, the Act states very well in Part A: General Policies and Requirements (formerly Part A: Administration) that any construction work defined as “minor construction work” may require approval from your local authority building inspector with any work start. As long as you apply to get proper local authority approval, YOU DO NOT NEED PLANS. But also in terms of compliance, the law is very clear; Minor construction work must comply with regulations.

Temporary Buildings

Even short-term constructions require the approval of the municipality. This includes construction sheds, on-site restrooms, and any other structures you may wish to construct (or need to construct) for the construction project.

The local authority will not give you permission to construct a temporary building until you provide certain information so that they can evaluate it. At least they need to know:

• what the intended use and lifespan of the building will be

• the space in which to build it (in other words, where you intend to place it)

• the availability of suitable materials from which to construct it

The definition of “minor civil works” as used in the Act

a ) the construction of poultry houses (hoender hokke or chicken coups) no larger than ten square meters, aviaries no larger than 20 square meters, stores for solid fuel (for storing wood, coal, anthracite or similar), the no larger than ten square meters and no higher than two meters, tool sheds smaller than ten square meters, children’s playhouses no larger than five square meters, bicycle sheds no larger than five square meters, greenhouses no more than 15 square meters, open car, caravan or boat canopies or carports, one not exceeding 40 square meters in size, free-standing walls of masonry, concrete, steel, aluminum or wood, or wire fencing no greater than 1.8m high at any point above ground and retaining no soil, any pergola, private swimming pool (although most local authorities insist on plans), changing room at a private swimming pool with an area not exceeding 10 m².

b ) replacing a roof (or part of a roof) with the same or similar materials,

c ) the conversion of a door into a window or a window into a door without increasing the width of the opening,

d ) creating an opening in a wall that does not affect the stability of the building concerned,

e ) the separation or enlargement of a room through the erection or demolition of an inner wall, insofar as this does not impair the stability of the building,

f ) the portion of a solar water heater not exceeding six square meters on any roof; or 12 square meters if the water heater is placed elsewhere,

g ) the erection of buildings for which the municipal council does not deem plans necessary.

In the last example, it is up to the building inspector to make this assessment.

How this affects you

We have received some requests on this site as to when and where plans are needed. As you will see there are some exceptions but ultimately it is up to the local authority to decide if you need plans or not.

It also makes sense that the structures defined as minor civil works must all be fit for purpose. So you can’t say that you assemble an aviary (which can have an area of ​​\u200b\u200b20 square meters), and then build a brick building with windows, suitable for human habitation!

Read more here: Plans & Minor Construction, A Garden Structure

01 Keep your grill grate clean by rubbing it with half a raw onion or half a raw lemon when the grill grate gets hot. You’ll look like a pro in front of your friends and add a nice flavor to the meat while you’re at it. 02 Braai meat should be in a specific order. Chicken takes the longest to cook and steak the shortest, so always place chicken first on the braai and steak last. Between the two, you can grill Wors, Chops, Sosaties, and whatever else you want to grill. 03 Never mess with another man’s braai! All guys have their own way of grilling, so unless you’re the one cooking the meat, it’s best to step back and drink your beer. If you really want to show off your master braai skills, stock up on a bag of charka and impress your friends with a braai of your own. 04 When grilling your meat, always hold a pair of braai tongs in one hand and a good drink in the other – all true braai masters only need one hand to turn the meat. 05 When you’ve cooked some of your meat and need to bring the next batch to the braai, let the cooked meat rest on a bed of fried, sautéed onions. This ensures your meat doesn’t dry out and also gives the meat great flavor! 06 If you enjoy the big flames and ambiance of a wood fire before cooking, first place the charcoal (as a base) and then build your braai master/friend with an impressive wooden pyramid above the charcoal. This way you can enjoy the log fire and when the flames have died down your coals are ready to grill. 07 A tip for defrosting your meat – DON’T! A true braai master always prefers fresh meat to meat that has been in the freezer. 08 True braai masters never leave their braai unattended, not even to get a drink. To avoid this problem, place a large cooler next to the braai, fill it with ice, water and of course plenty of drinks. Alternatively, you can always appoint your children, younger siblings, or friends who owe you a favor to go to the fridge regularly. 09 If you’ve ever had a problem with your friends pouring too many of your drinks, try turning your washing machine into a top-secret cooler. Fill the washer halfway with ice and place your beers, cold drinks, etc. inside. When the braai is over the ice melts and can even be used for your next load of laundry! 10 Wors has been known to burst open on the braai causing the Wors to lose their delicious juices and dry out! To prevent this, dip the sausages in water right before cooking. This makes the skin more elastic and prevents it from splitting open during grilling. 11 Finally, the best tip for any braai is always, and we always think so, to make sure you have lots of good friends, plenty to drink, good meat and a bag of charka or braaimeester. Do this and the best braai is in your pocket!

Up your steak braai game with these super easy and little-known tips from some of South Africa’s expert magazine chefs.

Estimated reading time: 3 minutes, 51 seconds.

Steak is by far the easiest thing to screw up on the grill: if you’re not careful, you’ll have a charred, tough piece of meat in no time. We’ve collected top tips from some of South Africa’s top magazine and food writers; Margie Els-Burger, food editor at Your Family magazine, and Leila Saffarian, food editor and stylist at Pass the Salt and formerly food editor at Food & Home Entertaining Magazine.

TEMPERATURE

Not from the braai, from your meat! Leila says, “Steak should always, always be at room temperature before being broiled or cooked. The proteins are relaxed, resulting in a more tender end product.” Margie recommends opening vacuum-packed steaks at least 20 minutes in advance to allow them to breathe, thawing frozen meat in the refrigerator overnight, and leaving the meat outside of the refrigerator 30 minutes before cooking to allow it to adjust to room temperature.

SPICE

If you’ve bought a cut of quality meat, there’s really no need to overdo it with the seasoning. A generous sprinkling of salt — Leila recommends using a quality salt like Maldon Sea Salt Flakes — and pepper should do the trick, but if you want to mix things up, Margie says, “Chipotle — smoked, dried jalapenos — is very trendy right now. I love rubbing my steak with a clove of peeled garlic and a pinch of this spice for extra flavor.” Rub your steak with a little oil before cooking, too.

COOK

Both chefs recommend medium-rare as the perfect doneness for a steak, but this can be adjusted to your preference. The first priority is the heat of your coals or cooking surface. “Hot coals are essential when cooking steaks or other meats that won’t sit on the coals for long periods of time,” recommends Leila. A 1 inch steak takes about 3 minutes per side – and only turn once! Another tip is to “keep the grid at a constant height above the coals,” says Leila.

REST

This is an essential and often skipped part of the cooking process. Margie recommends letting the steak rest under a piece of foil for 3-5 minutes “to allow the meat juices to settle, otherwise it will ooze out as you cut and result in a dry steak.” Leila agrees, adding, “Always allow at least 2 minutes rest time after the steaks have been removed from the embers. This allows the juices to run back into the meat, resulting in a more tender and juicy steak.”

TIPS

Avocado oil, melted butter, or even sunflower oil are all better than olive oil. Margie says, “While olive oil is delicious, it should not be used to sear steaks as the smoke point is too low.”

Good quality meat is essential, says Margie. “A bad piece of meat will never be good.”

The best steak cuts to roast are ribeye, sirloin, rump steak, T-bone, and tenderloin, says Margie. Leila says a cut with a good bead of fat around or through the edge is best.

MISTAKE

Add oil to pan while frying. Rather rub it on the steak; Putting it in the pan will burn the oil and add a bitter taste, Margie warns.

Move the steak around Margie says, “You need maximum heat transfer from the pan or rack to the steak to brown it.” Turn the steak as little as possible.

Seasoning the Steak at the Wrong Time Seasoning your steak too early or too late can cause the steak to become dry (by removing moisture) or underseasoned (the seasoning will come off on the grill). The “exactly right” moment is just before cooking.

Flip with a fork Again, this goes back to the juices! Piercing the flesh ensures you lose that essential moisture. Leila says, “Braai tongs are your friend – easy flipping without spilling those meaty juices.”

Basting says Margie: “Bassing should be done after the meat has been seared on both sides or in the last minute or two of cooking. When the steak is marinated in a sauce, scrape and pat dry.”

CUTS OF BEEF

Here’s a great international infographic brought to us by BroBBQ.com showing the 8 original cuts of beef (best seen on desktop). If you don’t know the differences and tastes between the following cuts, you will find this very useful:

Chuck Rib Loin Round Flank Short Plate Shank Brisket

Do you have any other tips, mistakes, methods, and cuts of beef that we left out? Share your tips with us on social media using the hashtag #BraaiTips. You can also subscribe to our blog for more lifestyle and car content, or if you’re feeling adventurous, download our ultimate guide to planning your next vacation trip.

(Or How to Grill Meat for the Rest of Us)

Braai or barbecuing (Bar-B-Q) meat is a South African tradition. We usually do it once or twice a week, probably more often. It’s an opportunity to get your friends and/or family together for some wine or a few cold ones.

In this Instructable, I’ll show you how, with a little prep and some scientific genius, you can braai like an expert and serve the juiciest meat.

What will you need:

Some red meat, preferably rump steak, tenderloin, or roast beef. i have butt

Some pineapple juice

Some balsamic vinegar

Salt

pepper

coriander

other spices

court

Fork

Wash hands, work area, bowl and fork before beginning. When handling food, the general rules of hygiene apply.

Everything together and let’s go

Step 1: Preparation of the meat: pineapple juice

Place the meat in the dish and pierce both sides with a fork. Then add 5 to 10 drops of pineapple juice to each piece of meat and perforate again. Do not turn the meat, but let it rest for 10 to 20 minutes. Turn them over, add the pineapple juice and punch again. Wait another 10 to 20 minutes before proceeding to the next step.

Step 2: Preparing the Meat: Balsamic Vinegar

After the pineapple juice, do the same with some balsamic vinegar. This step isn’t essential, but it adds a nice flavor to the meat.

The pineapple juice and balsamic vinegar are slightly acidic and this makes the meat soft and tender. The “acid” helps break down the meat’s structure. Any acidic fruit juice or liquid will do, even lemon juice works well. It is very natural and makes the meat taste wonderful. Don’t leave it on for too long or it may even harden the meat. The fork creates the holes for the pineapple juice and balsamic vinegar to run in and penetrate deeper into the meat where it’s needed most. I use pineapple juice for a specific reason, which we’ll get into later.

Step 3: Preparation of the meat: spices

Once you’re done with the pineapple juice and balsamic vinegar, it’s time for some seasoning. Add some salt, pepper (or black pepper), cilantro, and other spices to suit your taste. First on one side, then quickly flip the meat and do the other side. If you have more time, use your fingers to rub the spices into the meat so they penetrate deeper.

Tip: You can sprinkle a little brown sugar over the meat to make it taste irresistible, as I’ll explain later.

Step 4: Preparation of the meat: olive oil

Seconds before placing the meat on the hot grill, drizzle a few drops of olive oil (10 to 20) over each cut of meat. This will create a wonderful chemical reaction that, along with the pineapple juice, will give the meat an absolutely wonderful flavor.

Step 5: Place on the very hot grill

Wait for the fire you made to coalesce. Usually we use wood, charcoal or briquettes to make the “braai”. For charcoal and briquettes, wait until all flames have gone out and a fine layer of gray ash has formed. Your “fire” should then be ready for the “braai”. If you place your open hand, palm down, 1 to 1.5 inches above the grill, it should become uncomfortably hot within 5 to 8 seconds. For this “trick” to work, very hot coals are needed in the first few minutes of the “braai” to generate temperatures in excess of 150°C (302°F). If using another method such as a hot stone, gas or electric “braai” device, just make sure you heat it to just over 150°C (302°F) before placing the prepared meat on top, and you should be fine.

Quickly place the pieces of meat on a very hot grill, oil side down. The flames may flare up briefly, but that’s okay. Even if they last 10 to 20 seconds, leave the meat alone. What we want is the Maillard reaction.

This reaction is named after the chemist Louis-Camille Maillard, who first described it in the 1910s while trying to reproduce biological protein synthesis. The sugar that we added the pineapple juice to reacts with the amino acid in the meat, forming a complex mixture that is very similar to caramelization. This reaction is the basis of the flavor industry.

However, this only happens above a temperature of 150°C (302°F) and therefore the grill must be very hot. It doesn’t have to have flames, although they help. The purpose of the olive oil is to briefly light up the coals and keep the temperature above 150°C for 10 to 30 seconds. Searing the meat and sealing in the juices and flavor inside, while invoking the Maillard reaction on the outside.

Step 6: Turn the Meat

Do not turn the meat on the grill too often. All in all, you shouldn’t turn the meat more than 4 times before removing it to enjoy. The best way is if you manage it, just turning the meat once or twice before removing it from the grill. Turning the meat four times will give you well-done, perhaps overdone, meat. The more you turn the meat, the tougher and drier it gets as juices cook out.

Place the meat on the grill, wait until it collects quite a bit of juice, then turn it over. If juice starts to collect again at the top, you can check the doneness as explained in the next step. Take it off when doneness suits your taste. Otherwise, turn it over one or two more times before removing it.

Step 7: This is how you determine how the meat is prepared

How do you know when meat is ready? There is a simple and easy way to do this.

Poke the meat with your index finger. Now take your other hand and put your thumb and fingers together. Going from one finger to the next will give you the consistency of the meat as it should be done.

With your hand open but relaxed, feel the heel of your palm just below your thumb with the index finger of your other hand. This is the consistency of raw meat.

Now lightly touch your index finger and thumb and strike your heel again with the index finger of your other hand. This is the consistency of rare meat.

Touch your middle finger and thumb together, the heel now has the consistency of medium-rare meat.

The thumb and ring finger together represent medium-sized meat

And the pinky and thumb together is what well-done meat feels like.

The description of the meat is as follows:

Extra-rare or Blue (blue): very red and cold

Rare (legendary): cold red center; Soft

Medium rare (à point): warm red center; tighter

Medium (cut): pink and firm

Medium indentation (bien cuit): small amount of pink in the middle

Well done: drab throughout; festivals

Boil over: blacken throughout; crispy

If you have an internal thermometer to stick into the meat, then the cooking temperature for that piece of beef is as follows:

Rarely: 52°C (125°F)

Medium Rapid: 55°C (130°F)

Medium: 60°C (140°F)

Center Bay: 72°C (155°F)

Remember that at rest, the internal temperature will rise by about 3-5°C/ºF before it starts to cool down.

Step 8: Enjoy what you’ve “grilled”.

Remove the meat from the grill, let it rest for 5 to 10 minutes, but enjoy it at least while it is still warm. It is very important to let the meat rest for some time to allow all the juices to distribute evenly throughout the meat. Although I prefer my meat medium to medium rare, I prepared this cut medium to well done. It was juicy, juicy and soft. Try it yourself, you won’t be disappointed.

Article and image source: www.instructables.com

Chill out at the braai

Summer is all about socializing with friends and family over a good old South African braai. If you don’t have a braai, no problem! This month we show you how to make one.

For more information on this or other metalworking projects, please contact André Gous at 082-303-4830, 011-824-4995, email: [email protected] or visit www.metalandhome.co.za.

Step 1: Measure 120mm from the edge of the piece of sheet metal. Measure another 600mm from there and 120mm from there again. You will receive a rectangle measuring 840 mm x 800 mm.

Inside this large rectangle you should then have three smaller rectangles. Two measure 120mm x 800mm and the third measures 800mm x 600mm.

Step 2: Cut two pieces from the diamond grid; one measures 500mm x 600mm and a second measures 300mm x 600mm. For the frame of the braai grids, cut four 600mm pieces from the round bar, two 300mm pieces and two 500mm pieces.

Step 3: For the legs, cut four 500mm pieces from the 25mm round tube and four pieces from the 20mm round tube. Cut the angle iron into eight pieces of 60mm each.

Step 4: Using either a plasma cutter, guillotine, or jigsaw with a metal cutting blade, cut out the grill pan on the 840mm and 800mm lines. Cut two more pieces of sheet metal measuring 120mm x 600mm.

Step 5: Attach the piece of sheet metal to the 120mm mark on your workbench. Secure it by clamping a strong piece of metal to the sheet metal with a vise. Using a rubber mallet, bend the sheet metal down 90 degrees. Do the same with the other side.

Step 6: Now you need to cut vents in the two 120mm x 600mm side panels. To do this, measure 30 mm inwards from the left and right on the 600 mm side. Measure up 15mm from these two marks.

Next locate the center of the piece of sheet metal and measure 25mm out to each side and mark. Measure up 15mm again and draw lines between the two 15mm marks on either side of the centre. Now cut out the two sections measuring 245mm x 15mm.

Step 7: Weld sides with vent cutouts in braai pan.

Step 8: In just four of the 60mm elbows, measure 25mm from the top and drill a 10mm hole at each of these marks. Next, weld two pieces of angle iron together (one with and one without a hole). To fit around the 25mm round tube, place the two angle irons on top of the tube and then weld them together. Do the same with the other six pieces of angle iron.

Step 9: Turn eight bolts into eight nuts and weld four of them, nut end, to the elbows over the 10mm holes.

Step 10: Measure 60mm from one end of four 500mm x 25mm thick round tubes and drill 10mm holes. Again weld the nut end of the nut and bolt over the 10mm hole.

Step 11: Weld the four angle irons 30mm in from each side, with the nut and bolt end facing out towards the 800mm side.

Step 12: From the 25mm round tube, cut two more pieces of 120mm each. Weld one piece to the inside of one of the corners of the braai. From the outside of the braai, drill a 10mm hole through the braai pan as well as the 25mm round tube.

Weld another nut and bolt over this hole. The other 120mm piece gets a 10mm hole in the center and welds the final nut and bolt over the hole.

Step 13: Insert the remaining 600mm length of 20mm thick round tube into the 25mm tube welded to the corner of the grill and tighten.

Step 14: Weld the 500mm and 600mm pieces of round bar together and weld the 500mm x 600mm piece of diamond mesh onto the frame. Weld the end of the remaining piece of 120mm x 25mm round tubing onto the grille. Weld some additional round bars extending from the pipe section and extending up to the braai trellis for support. Now slide the grille over the 600mm arm and secure by tightening the nut on the 120mm piece.

Step 15: Weld short lengths of round bar onto these two studs above to make it easier to screw in and out.

Step 16: Construct a frame by welding the 300mm x 600mm pieces of round bar together and then welding the 300mm x 600mm piece of diamond mesh onto the frame.

Step 17: The remaining four pieces of 500mm x 20mm round tubing slide into the 25mm thick legs already attached. Secure them with the studs welded to the 25mm thick legs.

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