Can I Paint My Bike Without Taking It Apart? Best 47 Answer

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Everyone will have a different idea of ​​what it’s worth spending on a frame refurbishment. A rational output based on the final value needs to be balanced against the impossible-to-quantify emotional attachment some frames attract.

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At one end of the spectrum, you could just peel off all the pieces, spend time with a pot of paint stripper and emery cloth, and then repaint with the brush in whatever Hammerite color you like.

Provided you do a good job of general prep and degreasing, careful layering with cans of automotive paint can result in a superb finish. Practice before you start and wear a mask.

There’s an art to spraying a bike frame well without getting drips and bumps, and you really don’t want to inhale that drifting spray!

At the other end of the spectrum, you can pay a specialist like Argos Cycles to sandblast or chemically strip a frame and apply your choice of colour(s), new graphics and top coat.

While you’re at it, you can install disc brake hubs, chrome parts of the frame, add extra water bottle or rack hubs, or even completely replace a damaged tube.

Most specialists repair steel frames, while a minority also deal with aluminium, carbon fiber and titanium. The cost will vary depending on who you choose.

Here we overhaul the only Reynolds 853 singlespeed-specific frame Canadian builder Chris DeKerf has ever built, so it retains great value despite being left in the garage for years with a seatpost corroded inside.

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A blowtorch was used to pull out the seatpost, heat it to the melting point and pour it out in molten gobs. We also stripped the paint around the head tube to ensure crashes didn’t damage the top and down tube connections. It was then sent to Argos Cycles, Bristol’s refurbishment specialists.

We show you what Argos did to make our old frame look as good as new…

1. Pull off components

This is important to properly paint a frame. Aside from the headset and bottom bracket cups, complete disassembly is easy in most cases using allen wrenches, a chain splitter, and cable cutters.

The headset cups can be tapped out with a hammer and a long piece of metal, but a headset cup remover will work better. A tool to remove your threaded bottom bracket shells will cost around £10>£15.

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2. Stuck parts

A stuck seat post in an old frame is a common problem. In this case we had to heat the frame (with a blowtorch) to the point where the aluminum post melted.

Of course, that’s not possible with an aluminum frame, but most refurbishment specialists have their own secret methods for removing stuck parts, including bottom bracket shells and broken bottle cage bolts.

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3. Structural problems

Don’t commit to a renovation until you’ve checked all the important parts for damage. If you can remember a frontal collision, be aware of any welded or soldered joints, especially behind the head tube.

Make sure all tubing is straight and that rust spots do not affect the structure of the frame. Most renovation specialists can fix a connection or even fit new pipe, but it may not be worth the expense.

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4. Cable guides

This is also a good time to assess your cable runs. Many riders want to convert an old frame to disc brakes or install full outer cables instead of broken cables.

All of these detail changes are possible and can easily be done by a specialist like Argos Cycles while the paint is being removed from the bike. Make sure you get a quote as all the small changes can quickly add up to a lot of extra money.

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5. Bottle bosses

Adding additional bottle necks is a frequently requested change during renovation. This is easy and relatively inexpensive to achieve, and can be done even if you’re not ready for a repaint.

Ditto for Crudguard mounts under the down tube and, in most cases, threaded rack mounts on the seatstays. If you want to add threaded tabs for fenders and a rack at the dropouts, just make sure the tubing isn’t too thin at the mounting points.

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6. Seat clamps

The DeKerf frame was made with a welded, threaded seatpost clamp. Ours was fine but these often stretch with use. They can be easily removed and replaced with a slide-on all-round clamp.

We know many riders who have taken a refurbishment opportunity to upgrade that part of the frame with a support wedge, which is particularly useful for increasing the strength of a frame with an extended seat tube and long seatpost.

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7. Failures

A popular renovation conversion is replacing the wheel dropouts on a frame. This could be because the derailleur hanger has entered the wheel and damaged the dropouts, or you are having the frame converted from geared to single-speed use.

Now it’s time to start thinking about adding a disc brake mount to an old steel frame and removing the cantilever brake hubs in the process.

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8. Bottom bracket

Damaged bottom bracket threads are another typical problem with old frames. There are several possible solutions from re-tapping the threads to replacing the entire bottom bracket shell.

We once had a steel frame “cut and closed” – the underside of the shell was cut then pulled together and welded again, reducing the size of the shell slightly before tapping the new thread.

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9. Color choice

If you have the budget, anything from simple, super tough “school railing green” (our pick for the DeKerf) to fancy metallics, contrasting swatches, and gradual color fades is possible. If you’re feeling extra flush, you might even consider color-coordinating your fork and stem. A renovation specialist can usually also match original manufacturer colors.

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10. Shot peening

Paint stripping chemicals work well for DIY spray jobs or with a softer material frame, but shot/grit blasting is the quickest and most thorough method on most steel frames.

It will also highlight any issues such as: B. Rust spots that have become pinholes (these can be filled), giving you one last chance to abandon the expensive part of the renovation job if a problem is structurally significant.

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11th amendment

A popular upgrade is chrome plating on the dropouts or the entire right chainstay. Adding disc brake tabs or cable guides (perhaps for full outer cables) is also an easy task, as is replacing the rear derailleur hanger if you’ve twisted and weakened the current one when inserting your rear shifter mechanism into the spokes.

12. Tools

Logically, it’s rarely worth swapping out entire frame tubes, but it’s easy to become emotionally attached to a favorite frame, so removing and replacing a badly corroded, dented, or damaged section isn’t out of the question.

A professional usually has options to vacuum or fill dents prior to a final paint job. Never assume that something is impossible. Always ask.

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Step 13: Spray Frame

Spray painting a bike frame is a skilled job when it comes to achieving a truly professional, evenly applied finish that’s tough enough to last. We’ve seen good-looking, inexpensive DIYs, but it’s difficult to get a finish that really shows off the quality of a valuable frame when you do it yourself. Just pay for a pro and think about spreading the cost over years.

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14. Decals

Most manufacturers can provide ready-made decals for frame renovations. It pays to have them professionally applied and sealed with paint as part of the repainting.

Aligning stickers and applying them without wrinkles or bubbles takes practice, and you don’t want to waste the money you’ve spent messing up the application. Most specialist renovators can supply tube decals.

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15. Completion

A coat of paint is the final touch of a professional renovation. It gives extra resilience to the paint and seals the decals. Depending on the desired effect, you can choose between glossy, matt or silk varnish.

It’s also a good time to think about covering the bottom bracket threads neatly or adding clear protective tape to protect the paintwork from cable abrasions, chain slaps or rocks spraying off the front wheel and damaging the underside of the downtube.

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16. Welcome home

In most cases a frame is ready to build as soon as you get it home, but occasionally the final coat of paint or varnish can be a little soft for a few days, so if you can wait a while it’s worth it.

Think carefully about how you are going to rebuild the bike and be sure to remove excess paint from the bottom bracket threads, head tube and seat tube. In most cases, a specialist renovator will do this for you.

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Essential tools

Allen key

chain splitter

multiple tool

hammer

metal rod

Press headset

You will need a full allen wrench set and a chain breaker for initial disassembly and reassembly. A multi-tool can be enough for everything but the headset and bottom bracket (BB) cups.

Check what tools are needed to remove and install the crankset and bottom bracket. There are different options for different units.

A hammer and a long piece of metal can work to remove the headset cups, but you risk damaging the cups if you try to put them back in without a headset press. A press costs around £35, or take the frame to your local shop and have them do it.

Best Tips

Future Proof: The expense of adding disc brake hubs to a frame can be worth it, but think about how much you’re spending on a frame with say a 1″ steerer designed for a short fork. Your choices of 1″ steerer stems and short forks will be extremely limited!

Check for Damage: Undoubtedly an old frame has crashed, which may have resulted in structural damage. If you’re having a frame repainted, it’s easy to strip off sections of paint to inspect tubing and connections. Crashed aluminum frames can show stress cracks that are not obvious when painted. Look closely at steel frames if you see an area of ​​corrosion that could be more than superficial;

Check the top tube connection behind the head tube before committing to the cost of a repaint. This is an area that is often damaged by frontal impacts.

before you embark on the expense of a repaint. This is an area that is often damaged by frontal impacts. It’s easy for a frame refurbishment specialist to reinforce, swap out, or rethread a seatpost clamp on an old frame. This is a common area of ​​damage or weakness.

on an old frame. This is a common area of ​​damage or weakness. If your headset cups are loose, it could mean that the steerer tube has spread slightly in an impact. A renovation specialist will be able to correct this.

was spread slightly on impact. A renovation specialist will be able to correct this. Damaged bottom bracket threads can be built up and recut. In extreme cases, a new bottom bracket shell can be fitted.

Dropouts: A good frame rebuild specialist can easily replace the wheel dropouts on your frame if you decide to do a single speed conversion or need a derailleur hanger repair.

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Added Protection: The two part epoxy finish we chose for the DeKerf will hopefully prevent stone chip damage to the underside of the down tube. Alternatively attach frame protection tape.

British cycling coach Juliet Elliott shows how to paint a bike in a video on Squidbikes.com.

“I race a bike with ice on it,” says Emily Kachorek. “You don’t have to like it, but I do. And at least it turns your head!”

An elite cyclocross racer, former biologist and co-founder of Squid Bikes, Kachorek discovered her creative side early on. “I used to build bows and arrows and slingshots when I was a kid,” she says. Now she gets paid to spray paint bikes with flashy patterns and to make bike gear that stands out even when covered in mud.

Squid started partly because of failure. In 2013, Kachorek worked with a bike company to design a frame to match their neon gear at the time—but the paint job came back the wrong shade of yellow. She asked the owner of the brand if she could fix it herself. “I glued the shit out of the frame,” she says, laughing. “It was neon vomit. It looked unlike anything else out there. I wondered if I would be embarrassed at the start line.”

Instead, Kachorek discovered that people liked her bold and playful style. She and her Squid Bikes co-founders sourced American-made aluminum frames and began spray-painting. “I’m an 80’s kid; I love naughty neon things,” says Kachorek. “I realized that bikes don’t look like that. They are black and red and white and blue. I like to think that we helped that culture develop a bit.”

“Not many people do that,” Kachorek says of Squid’s vibrant aesthetic. “But people connect with it.” Carl Costas

Kachorek founded Squid not only to share her own vision, but also to give other riders the opportunity to realize theirs: the company sells several frames (as well as framesets and various builds) that customers can finish themselves, or you can build the frame have them painted by Squid Bikes. Squid also sells Sprayed n Ready frames that they painted but never built. (They are usually from fairs, but sometimes they sell frames painted by selected artists.)

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One of Kachorek’s all-time favorite bikes was a creamsicle and cloud design that came to her in a dream. She painted the frame in front of an audience at a gravel road race to show how easy the process can be. “It’s our way of having fun and not taking everything so seriously,” she says. “It won’t be perfect, but it will be yours.”

Cyclocross racer Samantha Runnels from Team Squid x Eliel. Icon Sportswire Getty Images

6 tips for painting a bike

Whether you’ve always wanted to try your own custom paint job on your bike or have recently dusted off your bike due to COVID-19, giving your bike a fresh look is always a good idea. Along with Kachorek’s advice, we’ve put together some tips for a successful paint job.

1. Practice first

If this is your first time painting a bike, or if you are going to use a different color than last time, you may want to practice. You can experiment with a cheap frame that you don’t mind screwing up, or even a cheap metal tube.

2. Prepare the bike

You should make sure that the frame is ready for painting. First clean it with rubbing alcohol and a lint-free cloth. Make sure the frame is completely clean. Unless it’s raw aluminum, steel, or carbon, sand it down lightly so the paint has something to stick to. Use 1000-1500 grit sandpaper and rub just enough to texture the surface – you don’t want to completely remove any material.

3. Choose your color

It’s important to choose a quality paint that will last, so check your local art stores. Look for a low-pressure can – the slower the paint comes out, the easier it is to work with. Squid sells its own paint, Spray.Bike, on its website, and Montana paint is another good option. Whatever you end up choosing, don’t mix marks or lines, as different colors can react badly with each other.

4. Break out the tape

Place painter’s tape over parts of the frame where components will be attached: bottom bracket, seat tube, head tube, and dropouts. According to Kachorek, it works well on Squid’s aluminum frames. You can also use masking tape to mask off areas of the bike while you create your design – just make sure your base layer is completely dry or the paint could come off with the masking tape.

5. Set up your workspace

While doable, painting your bike while holding it is a hassle, so be sure to secure your frame so you can paint it without touching it. You can clamp the head tube onto a dowel and clamp the dowel into a stand, or just thread a cord or cord through the top tube and hang it from a rafter. You may also want to put a drop cloth on top to catch overspray.

6. Spray away

First, Kachorek says to shake the can for three minutes before using it. Then check the can to see how far away you should hold it when spraying. (Spray.Bike should be held closer to the bike than other paints, between 1 and 4 inches away.) Paint should be sprayed evenly and one coat at a time. Also, keep your hand at a steady pace while spraying.

Also consider the weather. Kachorek recommends painting in dry weather (most important) and preferably in warmer temperatures and lower humidity. Make sure to give the paint enough time to dry before layering different colors or applying a second layer.

And play around! The beauty of DIY is that there are no wrong answers. If you need more advice on painting your bike, check out painting tips at Squidbikes.com.

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Can I spray paint rust?

Yes, you can spray paint rust. Before you paint, take the time to properly prepare your surface. Preparing the spray paint surface is extremely important and is the best indicator of how long your new paint job will last.

Remove loose rust and paint

Remove loose rust with a wire brush, sandpaper or chemical rust remover. The goal is to make your surface as smooth as possible so that the new paintwork will adhere well to the surface.

If your surface has chipped or peeling paint, remove any loose paint. Lightly sand glossy surfaces to dull the finish. Do not sand old paint that may contain lead. For more information, call the National Lead Information Hotline at 1-800-424-LEAD.

Clean surface

Dirt, grease and oil can affect paint adhesion, as can loose rust and peeling paint. Ordinary soap and water or household detergents will effectively remove most surface soiling. Remove grease and oils with a degreaser or denatured alcohol. Avoid using strong solvents on previously painted surfaces. Solvents can soften the old paint, which can then cause the new paint to wrinkle or peel off the surface. Rinse the surface and let it dry completely.

Your surface should now be clean, matte and dry.

primer

If the surface has severe rust

If the surface still has heavy rust after all loose rust has been removed, start with Krylon® Rust Protector™ Rust Converting Primer or Krylon® Rust Tough® Rust Fix. This primer chemically converts rust into a waterproof, paintable finish. Spray directly onto remaining rust to protect against further corrosion. Apply several thin coats to avoid runs and drips. This primer sprays on clear and dries to a black primer. Paint over with the color of your choice after 24 hours. If desired, the surface can be lightly sanded before applying the top coat.

If the surface has some rust

If the surface still has some rust after all loose rust has been removed, spray with Krylon® Rust Protector™ Rusty Metal Primer. This primer provides increased corrosion protection for rusted surfaces and excellent adhesion and hiding power. Apply several thin coats to avoid runs and drips. The primer is dry in 8 minutes and tack-free in 15 minutes. Topcoat with your choice of paint color.

When the surface rust is completely removed

If you were able to remove all traces of rust with a wire brush or sandpaper, you can either prime with Krylon® Rust Protector™ Rust Preventative Primer or Krylon® Rust Tough® Enamel Primer, or skip the priming step as Krylon Rust Protector and Rust Tough Enamels are specially formulated to to provide excellent rust protection direct to metal – even without a primer.

Priming always helps create a smooth, even surface that’s ideal for painting. The primer also helps reduce the chance of color shift and increases adhesion. If you decide to apply foundation, apply several thin coats to prevent runs and drips. Rust Protector Primer dries in 8 minutes, is tack-free in 15 minutes and a top coat can be applied at any time. Rust Tough Primer dries in 20 minutes and is ready for a top coat in 30 minutes.

Spray paint over rust

After your surface is clean, matte, dry, and appropriately primed, spray Krylon Rust Protector or Rust Tough Enamel onto your well-prepared surface. Apply several thin coats to avoid runs and drips. Dries in 8 minutes and is no longer sticky in 15 minutes.

Still have questions about painting rust? Ask Krylon.

After some time and probably many painful crashes, your bike can start to look worn out. The paint scratches serving as signs of wear may make it look older than it actually is. Or, while it still looks good, you’re tired of its current color. It can be tempting to buy a shiny new bike. But if there aren’t any other issues with the vehicle, there are some more budget-friendly ways to address the exterior issue. Follow our guide and learn how to paint a bike frame to make it look brand new again. In a few simple steps with simple tools, you can customize your bike frame to your heart’s content.

Practice practice practice

As we’ve all heard many times, practice makes perfect. Especially in art and painting, practice helps to overcome technical problems. You may be wondering what technique is needed to paint over a bike frame? Well, it all depends on what you want your bike to look like. If you want to use two or more colors, you should practice mixing colors. Or if you want to draw a design on the frame, you should practice it on paper first. Familiarize yourself with your spray paints or paints and brushes before applying them to the original.

Choose the setting

Before you can fully ride Bob Ross on your bike, you must first prepare the space you will be working on. If possible, it would be best to paint the bike somewhere out in the open. This way you avoid inhaling volatile organic compounds (VOC) released from the paint. However, if this is not possible, try to choose a room where you can open a window.

After choosing the area, use a plastic sheet to cover the grass, concrete floor, or the floor in your room. Avoid using fabric clothes as they will soak up the paint and let it run onto the floor. Lay the plastic down and tape it to the bottom. If you’re working near a wall, tape some plastic cloth to it as well.

To make the process easier, try hanging the bike frame on something by threading a wire through the head tube. Or try mounting it to a table by putting a cylindrical rod or something similar through the head tube and clamping it. You can walk around it and paint all sides without having to move it.

Choose the color you want to use

When choosing spray paints for your bike, look for ones made specifically for painting over metals. This process ensures that the painted frame has a smooth finish and looks professionally painted. Also choose the bike color based on whether you want a gloss or matte finish.

Even if you plan to use two or more colors, do not use different brands of spray paint. Each company uses their formulas to make the paint, which means that if we mix different brands, they can react badly with each other.

Dismantle the bike

The next step is to disassemble your bike. Take everything apart starting with the two wheels, then the cranks and bracket, front and rear derailleurs, chain and brakes, handlebars, saddle and front forks. In the end, only the frame should remain.

In anticipation of the process, when you need to reassemble everything after painting, we recommend placing all small parts, screws, and bolts in labeled plastic bags or boxes. Not only will this make sure you don’t lose it, but you’ll also know which part goes where when you put the bike back together.

Sand the frame with a sandpaper

Now that you only have the bike frame in front of you, you can clean it up and remove all the grease and dirt from previous use. Some good old soap and water will do the job. Then wipe down the frame and it’s ready for sanding.

The sanding process is essential for the new paint to adhere to the bike frame. You can use some sandpaper to roughen up the surface of the old paint and create a good base for the paint to adhere to. Finally, wipe the frame again with a cloth and let it dry.

Tape off the parts you don’t want to get messy

Before you start painting the bike frame, you should also mask off any areas that you do not want to paint. For example, avoid painting the post for the brakes and any threads that you will later bolt the other parts to. If there are bike parts that you couldn’t remove when disassembling the bike, you can cover them as well. Use masking tape to cover everything and avoid a mess.

Apply two coats of color

Finally you can start painting. We recommend applying two thin coats of paint, or more if needed to optimally cover the old paint. Hold the spray can about 30 cm from the bike frame while spraying while moving. If you try to spray small areas at once, you can spray too much in one spot and cause paint to drip.

After the first coat, allow the paint to dry for about 30 minutes before proceeding. Although two should be enough, if you can still see the previous color in any area, go ahead and add another layer all over the frame. If you are happy with the result, let the paint dry for a few hours or overnight.

And one more thing to keep the bike rust free

After the spray paint is completely dry, you can apply a clear coat to your bike to prevent rust and keep it looking fresh. Just like with paint, you can spray more than one coat for better results. Be sure to let the frame dry between each session.

Let the paint dry

After you’ve sprayed on your last coat, allow the bike frame to dry for at least a full day. If the bike was painted outside, you can carefully transfer it inside, but try not to touch or move it again while it is drying.

Reassemble the bike

Now that everything is painted, dried and looking good you can peel off the tape and start assembling the bike. Reattach any parts you previously removed from the frame and your new bike is ready to go.

Why should you spend your hard-earned money on something you can easily do yourself? So, put on your DIY gloves and bibbidi-bobbidi-boo the pumpkin-looking bike into a beautiful carriage.

How much does it cost to paint a motorcycle? If you recently bought a used motorcycle, or have had a bike for years that needs a paint job, you may be wondering where to start and how much it will cost you. Used motorcycles can hold their costs relatively well, but sometimes motorcycle prices can be low if someone wants to unload their hog quickly. However, occasionally the repairs and revitalization of a bike can be expensive. Luckily, there are some money-saving options when it comes to painting your ride. If you have the means, professional bike painting or even a custom painting can be ideal. Custom painting is also an option worth considering.

Regular Painting Standard motorcycle paint jobs vary and depend on your location, the shop where you have the paint done and your specific bike. Typical price ranges for painting a motorcycle are around $300 to $1,600. Much of that price will depend on how much work needs to be done on your actual bike before painting can be done. If you only want a standard paint job and your bike is in perfect condition, the price will be significantly lower. If you’re not confident enough in your DIY skills to paint a bike yourself, hiring someone to do it for around $300 can be worth the money.

Prep Work It’s important to remember that in most situations, painting a motorcycle involves either minor or major repairs to the bodywork, or even tiny repairs to dents and dents. You can discuss this with your bike’s painter before deciding on a price. If you’re happy with a paint finish that covers a small dent or two that’s barely noticeable, this is an option. One of the most labor intensive parts of painting (even without damage) is sanding off the old paint before applying the new.

Custom Paints Of course, if you want more than just a rudimentary paint job for your vehicle and want a custom paint job with detailed work like flame stripes or other intricate designs, the cost is much higher. Prices vary depending on the location, artist, type of shop you choose and the bike. The average range for custom paint jobs on motorcycles can range from $800 to $2,500 depending on the detail of the job. For high-end bikes and exceptional custom paint jobs, the cost can increase to $15,000 to $30,000 depending on the paint job.

A DIY Motorcycle Livery If you’re on a tight budget or just enjoy making things yourself, painting your own motorcycle is certainly an option. Before attempting this, learn the proper techniques and watch some of these processes with a few videos before you begin. There are several helpful videos on how to paint your own pig, including some that show you how to use techniques like a wrap look. The cost of a do-it-yourself paint job can be less than $100 depending on your equipment. Another side bonus to having fun painting your bike yourself and doing an amazing job at it is that you can end up making some money painting rides for other people.

How To Paint Your Own Bike In order to paint a motorcycle yourself you will need a considerable amount of space to dish up a paint shop. Never spray your bike in an area that is not adequately ventilated. For example, even when the garage door is open, you want an oscillating fan to prevent fumes from accumulating. If you can remove parts of your bike that need painting, do so. Find out what size Allen key is required to remove items like the tank. Store screws in plastic bags and then label them, e.g. B. with “rear fender”. The surfaces to be painted must then be sanded. If the service isn’t smooth, the finish will end up being even and unattractive. If you don’t have an electric sander, buy a few different grades of sandpaper and work in a circular motion to remove old paint. After sanding, wipe the surface to remove dust residue. Make sure you have a clean canvas to paint on. If there are dents, you can now smooth them out with putty. Apply it about 1/8 inch thick, being careful not to clump as you apply. You will need to sand the surface again once the putty has completed its drying process. Before painting, check these areas in a bright light to make sure they are smooth.

Applying Paint Now that it’s time to apply paint, first apply two coats of epoxy primer. This protects metal from moisture over the long term and helps prevent problems such as rust. Carefully follow the instructions on your epoxy packaging before beginning this process. You will very lightly sand the surface after the second coat of epoxy. It is recommended to use 2000 grit wet and dry sandpaper. Make sure your paint spray gun is clean before you begin. Mix the paint with the correct amount of thinner recommended when loading your sprayer. Then use the spray gun and coat the areas to be painted with three or four coats. Do not spray your motorcycle in close proximity or hold the sprayer in one spot. Even quick movements should be used in strokes across the surface of your bike. Finish with two coats of clear coat (follow product directions) to protect your new paint job from the elements.

At some point your bike will urgently need a transformation. It’s not just about keeping it looking new, but also protecting it from stubborn rust. If your bike’s exterior finish peels off, it will need to be repainted.

However, you need to be extra careful when choosing paint color as regular paint you see at hardware stores will not work well on your bike. There are specific types of finishes that should be used to lengthen the overall structure of your bike.

So what kind of paint should you use on a bike? Spray paint or airbrush paint is the first choice of bike paint for most bikers. Both are easy to use and can coat your bike in no time. To learn more about bike paints, read on. We will find the right color for your bike.

Reasons to paint your bike

Personalize the look and feel

Usually you buy a bike that has the look of the standard bike model. The look is consistent and you might find the exact same model when you hit the streets. There are some bikers who might want to rework and repaint for a more customized look.

In this case you have the possibility to choose the color and design of the bike and give more personality to your bike. It is very common for bikers to completely redo the bike frame and choose the color they want.

protection of your bike

Another reason why some choose to paint their bike is to protect it from external elements. Bicycle paints or coats protect your bike directly from substances that can damage the metal structure. Most bike paints can protect steel or aluminum bike frames from water and sand.

These substances can cause corrosion that will damage your bike. To prevent it from spreading throughout the bike frame, the ideal is to treat the rust and repaint your bike.

From old to new

Many cyclists find it difficult to let go of their old bike. After years of use, your bike will look old-fashioned and in need of a refresh. Bike painting or spray painting is the best way to convert your bike into a brand new one.

Factors to consider when painting a bike

Before repainting your bike, there are a few important factors to consider. This ensures a successful bike painting process.

Rust removal is vital

When you own an old bike and you’ve had it for years, it automatically builds up rust and dirt on the surface. Before painting the bike, you should remove the rust and clean the bike. This way the paint sits well on your bike frame.

You can use sandpaper or aluminum oxide paper to remove rust from your bike. Also, it is advisable to use a miniature random orbit sander or mouse sander during the removal process. Make sure you completely remove the rust from your bike.

Degreasing is just as important

Degreasing is another way to ensure a successful bike finish. You can use mineral spirits or soap to remove stubborn oil surrounding your bike frame. It is important that you degrease your bike an hour before applying the paint product.

steel treatment

One way to protect your bike from further rust and corrosion is with steel treatment. You can use a rust converter or anti-corrosion primer to treat your bike. You can paint your bike with thin coats of these substances and let them sit before painting. Anti-corrosion primer is a helpful way to prevent rusting. It can also help combat coat shedding.

paint color

This depends a lot on your personality. Before you choose the paint color, it is important that you have everything planned. This means you have an idea of ​​what your bike will look like once it has been painted.

This way you don’t waste resources and don’t cause major damage to your bike. You can also consult an expert in custom bike paints. Make sure you get the color of your choice and test in broad daylight to see if the shade is correct.

paint mark

To get the best bike frame paint, you need to use a paint brand you can trust and repute. If possible, do not use generic bike paints. It cannot provide the protection and coating you want for your bike. Some paint brands can wear out easily, wasting your expenses in the process.

Correct bike color to use on a bike

For best results, here are recommended bike paints to use to coat and transform your bike. Depending on your budget and skill level, you can choose what type of paint works for you.

brush colors

Using brush paint is the most traditional way of painting a bike. For the best result you can use the following for bike painting:

Plasticote Enamel Paint – It is an oil based paint that leaves no trace of brush marks. The Plasticote creates a hard gloss finish after coating your bike. The paint is very easy and quick to dry, so you need to speed up the painting process.

– It is an oil-based paint that leaves no trace of brush marks. The Plasticote creates a hard gloss finish after coating your bike. The paint is very easy and quick to dry, so you need to speed up the painting process. Humbrol Enamel Paint – Another paint brand to consider is Humbrol Enamel Paint. Like the Plasticote, it is an oil-based brush stroke. It is a thick substance that leaves an uneven surface when applied very thickly.

– Another brand of paint to consider is Humbrol enamel paint. Like the Plasticote, it is an oil-based brush stroke. It is a thick substance that leaves an uneven surface when applied very thickly. Johnstone’s Professional Undercoat – This undercoat is an oil based chemical ideal for a white top coat for your bike frames. You can sand your bike after painting it with Johnstone. It needs to be sanded as the paint can leave brush marks when applied.

– This primer is an oil based chemical ideal for a white top coat for your bike frames. You can sand your bike after painting it with Johnstone. It needs to be sanded as the paint can leave brush marks when applied. Household Gloss Paint – The paint applies very thickly and dries slowly. It requires waiting two weeks or more to give your bike a final sanding after coating. If applied gradually, it can still achieve excellent results.

– The paint can be applied very thickly and dries slowly. It requires waiting two weeks or more to give your bike a final sanding after coating. If applied gradually, it can still achieve excellent results. Hammerite – This type of paint can be used as a primer. It has a very thick consistency, making it a tough material to work with on your bike. It’s marketed as a paint and primer all in one, but it gets tricky with a brush.

spray paints

If you are not good at working with a brush, there are bike spray paints available on the market. A spray paint can create a more even application for your bike frame. No sanding is required even after paint application.

Spray painting bikes is easier compared to brush painting. It has a spray head that allows you to direct the area you want to color. If you apply the spray paint correctly, you will see a desirable result.

Next to brush paints, spray paint is the first choice for most bikers. The paint color is already mixed, so all you have to do is open the spray bottle and get the job done. However, you need to exercise caution when using spray paints.

It is important to keep sufficient distance between the spray head and your bike. This allows you to control how thinly or thickly the paint is applied to your bike’s finish. For accurate results, hold the spray paint in a vertical position and gradually spray the mixture.

You can use Krylon’s Fusion All-in-One Bicycle Spray Paint or RUST-OLEUM Enamel Spray Paint. Both surfaces are glossy and can protect your bike from rust when spraying a bike.

Airbrush Colors

Airbrush painting is another innovative way to transform your bike. You will need an airbrush gun, a suitable compressor and diluted paint. With this type of paint, you can keep the coating as thin as possible.

No paint thinner is needed to get better color consistency. In addition, you can apply the paint more evenly. We recommend you use the Badger Airbrush for accurate results.

No matter what your bike is made of, you can coat and stain it with airbrush paint. Compared to spray paint, using an airbrush when painting produces a more even and thinner coating. It creates a fine mist on the surface and can be applied in multiple layers without looking too thick.

Using an airbrush is one of the best ways to paint your bikes. Most airbrush paints can be used with any type of material, giving you more painting versatility.

Conclusion

Upgrading or converting your bike is easy once you know what type of paint you are going to use. There are many products on the market, so it can be confusing what to choose.

May this guide on what type of paint to use on a bike help narrow down the choices for your bike paintwork needs. For other concerns, we are also open to discussion and encourage you to comment on your requests.

5/5 – (2 votes)

If you’re looking to revitalize an old bike or make a splash in your cycling club, a fresh new frame color could be just the ticket. Here we look at two methods of finishing a bike frame: painting and powder coating.

Should I have my bike frame professionally painted? If you’re looking for the highest quality finish and most impressive style, you should have your bike frame professionally painted. Custom bike painters can turn bikes into works of art with stunning colors and intricate designs.

So how much does it cost to have a bike frame professionally painted? The average starting price for painting a steel bike frame is $516 and ranges from $350 to $750. The final cost is higher if additional colors and patterns are added or if the bike is carbon.

The above conclusion was reached by taking prices from several suppliers and compiling them in the tables below showing starting prices for steel and carbon bike frames.

Bike Shop One Color (USD) Two Colors (USD) Horse Cycles, NY 350 405 Chris Kvale Cycles, MN 350 Bilenky Cycle Works, PA 495 575 Premier Bicycle Werks, CA 550 Element 6, CA 600 Hot Tubes, MA 750 Average 516 490 Cost of professional painting of bikes (steel frame)

Here is a list of starting prices for carbon bike frames.

Bike Shop Single Color (USD) Two Color (USD) Premier Bicycle Werks, CA 450 Carbon Solutions, CA 600 700 R+E Cycles, WA 700 Element 6, CA 800 Hot Tubes, MA 1000 Average 710 700 Cost of professional bike painting (carbon frames )

Who has their bike frame professionally painted?

An individual finish is ideal for anyone who wants a high-quality appearance. Maybe you’re a road cyclist with an interest in style. Or maybe you are a classic car enthusiast restoring a classic bike. Then professional painting is perfect!

Can I paint a bike frame myself?

Painting a bike frame involves a number of steps, e.g. B. sanding, priming, painting and applying a clear coat. It’s quite challenging, but definitely a task most people could handle on their own.

Aside from purchasing materials, you’ll need an easy-to-clean outdoor area and some patience (some steps take a while!). Here is a video demonstrating the whole process in a simple way:

How much does it cost to paint my bike frame yourself?

Painting a bike frame yourself is an inexpensive way to get a fresh new color, and the cost is around $70.

How much does it cost to powder coat a bike frame?

The average cost to powder coat a bike frame is $151 and ranges from $50 to $275. This cost often includes sandblasting, making powder coating an inexpensive way to finish a bike frame.

Here is a price list for powder coating a bike frame.

Bike Shop One Color (USD $) Amalfi Powder Coating, AZ 50 Rock on Wheels, WY 100 Espo’s Powder Coating, NY 110 CC Coatings, OR 150 Finish Logic, CA 175 Quality Powder Coating NYC, NY 200 Seattle Powder Coat, WA 275 Average 151 cost powder coating bike frame

What is powder coating?

Powder coating uses an electrical charge to bind colored powder to the surface of an item. In powder coating, an object is sprayed with powder and then heated in an oven. This creates a smooth, durable finish for your bike frame.

What are the benefits of powder coating your bike frame?

toughness

Powder coating involves spraying multiple layers of powder onto your bike. This creates a durable finish that will withstand bumps and scratches and stay strong for a long time.

value

The average cost to powder coat a bike frame is $151, so it’s an inexpensive way to update your bike.

Surroundings

Powder coating is more environmentally friendly than other options. It is a solvent-free process that causes almost no emissions. Plus, the leftover powder can be scraped off and reused, so waste is minimal (source).

Who should have a bike frame powder coated?

The powder coating is ideal for people who need a durable bike. The powder coating creates a strong finish that can withstand bumps, scrapes and scratches (source).

Maybe you live in a city and want to protect your bike from concrete and cars. Or maybe you’re a mountain biker who worries about trees and boulders. The powder coating is perfect when you want a hard wearing finish that also looks good.

Painting versus powder coating bike frames

To answer this question correctly, it is important to consider your needs and the way you intend to use your bike.

When bold style is paramount, color is your best bet. Painting provides a thinner layer of paint, allowing intricate details and patterns to really stand out. The choice of colors and design options is also much larger.

If you need a tough bike, then powder coating is for you. Powder coating is sturdier than paint and many hold it downright bombproof! It’s the best choice for people who want a great looking bike that won’t chip or scratch easily.

What is sandblasting?

Sandblasting is when a trained operator sprays abrasive particles at an object under high pressure. The purpose of sandblasting is to remove dirt and create a smooth surface. Sandblasting is known by other names such as B. Abrasive blasting and media blasting.

The benefits of sandblasting bike frames

Sanding a frame by hand is a difficult task, and it can take days (yes, days!) to remove stubborn old paint from your frame. For this reason, some people have their frames sandblasted, a process that removes old rust and paint and strips your frame back to bare metal. It’s a quick and inexpensive way to prep your bike frame for painting or powder coating (while saving hours of hard work with a piece of sandpaper!).

Where can I have my bike frame painted?

Painting custom bikes takes a lot of skill, and if you’re looking for the best quality and the widest range of options, take it to an experienced specialist. To get an idea of ​​what spot to look for, take a look at these three custom bike paint shops:

Element 6 in Santa Ana, California: element6.us

Hot Tubes in Boston, MA: hottubes.com

Austin Paintworks in Austin, TX: austinpaintworks.com

Beautify your vehicle with ABRO’s color spray paint, which you can use to incredibly spice up the look of your car or motorcycle. This spray paint for cars and bikes is not only easy to use, has a high quality and dries the paint quickly, but it is also environmentally friendly as it is acid-free, non-toxic and pH neutral.

Available with an adjustable easy-press nozzle and a wide spray pattern, you can ensure your car or bike gets a smooth, even coat. Compatible with various finishes such as vinyl, fiberglass, plastic, metal and related materials, this product blends well with any factory applied finishes that can complement your vehicle’s exterior perfectly.

Reports of the demise of this site are grossly exaggerated! We at sheldonbrown.com thank Harris Cyclery for their many years of support. Harris Cyclery is closed but we’re moving on. Keep visiting the site for new and updated articles and news about possible new affiliations.

options in post-processing

Paint is chipped, scratched and worn away. Paint defects lead to corrosion, which can weaken a frame. If a frame is reworked before it is seriously damaged, you can still use it for many years. How much work does it make sense to do yourself? With a steel frame, there are several good answers, depending on the time available, your workspace, and how important the frame’s appearance is to you. With non-steel frames, the options are more limited, but I’ll describe them as well. Professional bike frame builders and repair shops perform fancy, multi-colored paint jobs and complete restorations, even reproducing original decals, stripes and chrome. If you’re happy with a more streamlined appearance, an industrial paint shop or body shop can do a great job at a lower cost. I will also describe a do-it-yourself varnish that results in an ugly but very durable finish. But — 90% of the repair work is in the preparation. On a bike frame, much of this work can be done using ordinary bike tools and other simple tools and consumables, although the final preparation for painting is best left to a professional. Once the prep is complete, you can have the frame professionally refinished or give it that ugly finish I mentioned. The main example here is a homemade steel tandem frame made from scrap frames. (I described the construction of this frame in another article.)

Surface preparation

The photo on the left shows the tandem frame before I prepared it for repainting. It still carried most of the original paint, although I had stripped some areas of paint before soldering. The frame was in storage for a few years before I got around to refinishing it and there were some rust spots on the bare metal areas. The first step in preparation is to strip a frame of all components – already done for that frame before I soldered it together. Most components come off easily. Crankset, bottom bracket and headset or a stuck seat post present the biggest challenges. Articles on this page describe how to deal with them: Cranks without a cotter pin

One-piece cranks

Cup and cone bottom bracket

cartridge bottom bracket

Headset

Seatpost Keep small parts organized for easier replacement. It’s a good idea to line up the nuts, bolts, and washers of each component on a spare cable or spoke. Any modification that involves soldering or welding must be done prior to final preparation for post-processing. Now is also a good time if you’re looking to reposition the dropouts – but first check that the frame is sound – no cracks or serious dents and tolerable rust. Steel frame tubes can be replaced — worth it for a collector’s item — job for a professional frame builder. Three degrees of rust are more or less light surface rust, moderate pitting, and rust severe enough to require frame repair. Some perforated rust is tolerable in less stressed areas of the frame. Rust is common around the bottom bracket and chainstay area or anywhere there is damage to the paint – including from sweat on the top of the top tube if a bike has been used on an indoor trainer. Also check the pipes for rust. Interior rust is insidious rust. Water can enter through the open top of a stocktube seatpost or through a vent hole. If the frame doesn’t have a drain hole under the bottom bracket, drill one. This will help prevent future internal rust. The down tube, seat tube, and chainstays should all communicate with the bottom bracket shell to drain through this drain hole. If possible, there should be no pockets in which water can collect. An advanced case of internal rust – my old Raleigh Twenty Folder frame.

Salt water got in through a ventilation hole (blue arrow) and couldn’t get out

because paint clogged the bottom vent hole (my fault!).

The pipe rusted from the inside and burst (red arrow).

Priming under the paint prevents rust in small scratches (green arrows).

The hinge rusted where large areas of paint were scraped off (orange arrow). Lightly sand the rust spots with fine sandpaper – #320 grit or finer. This shows where there is deeper rust. Also peel off decals. A paint scraper or single-edged razor blade will take care of them quickly. Follow the sanding with a solution of phosphoric acid — the mild acid that gives Coca-Cola its flavor. In fact, Coca-Cola was sometimes used to clean metals. (I don’t recommend Coca-Cola for rust removal: it leaves a sticky residue and the acid concentration is low.) Phosphoric acid eats rust but not steel, and you can soak a rusted portion of a frame until all the rust is gone . Avoid getting phosphoric acid solution in your eyes; rubber gloves are also advisable – but short-term contact is harmless. You just need to wash with soap and water. The photo on the right shows two phosphoric acid products. Pink and tacky, Loctite Naval Jelly will stick to surfaces in any orientation. Better hardware stores carry this product. Purple Power Rust Remover or other aqueous phosphoric acid treatment is typically used as a wash for metal panels in body shops. You can brush this on bare metal parts of the frame to remove light surface rust and prevent further rusting, or you can soak parts of the frame in a diluted solution to remove deeper rust. A useful way to soak is to soak a rag in the solution and wrap it around a frame tube. [Note: As of 2019, Purple Power De-Roster appears to no longer be sold, but another company, Klean-Strip, offers a similar product. See the link at the bottom of this article.] Phosphoric acid can slowly eat away at brass, so use caution when using it on soldered joints. Usually the rust is gone before the solder joint is significantly damaged. The aim is to remove rust down to the bare metal. You should only see gray rust, not brown or orange. The frame may have rust spots. If they’re not too deep and not where they weaken the frame, good enough. They can be filled before painting. Another way to remove rust is electrolysis, which involves connecting the rusted part and another iron or steel object to the two terminals of a battery charger and submerging them in water. The liquid electrolyte is simple – baking soda or washing soda in water. To get a whole frame into the electrolyte solution, you can lay a sheet of polythene plastic on the floor in a rectangular frame, or use a plastic children’s paddling pool (but keep children away! Electrolysis works faster than phosphoric acid and is more convenient when there is pitting. Links at the bottom of this article lead to web pages with instructions. Reading the last paragraph on any of these pages makes me think electrolysis is safe for soldering, although I’m not sure. The phosphoric acid solution or electrolyte can washed off with clear water. If the frame is dried quickly, very little rust will occur. If a frame needs to be painted, chromed areas are likely to show some pinholes and chips, with rust spots showing through. Using padded aluminum foil will avoid scratches chromed parts – if that matters – but usually chrome is repainted rt or redone in a fancy refinishing job.Phosphoric acid will erode a scarred chromed surface, but you can still use phosphoric acid ay if you are going to be painting over the chrome. This will remove the rust underneath the chrome. The next step, blasting, removes loose chrome and roughens the surface of the chrome part to allow the paint to adhere. I recommend derusting before blasting, as blasting will not remove rust to the bottom of the deepest pits. Blast cleaning will remove most of the de-rusting fluid residue. Both Naval Jelly and Purple Power leave a residue even when washed off with water.

Removing paint and residue

We’re repairing a steel frame here. But let’s talk about carbon fiber, aluminum and titanium for a moment. Chemical paint strippers and abrasives do serious damage to a carbon fiber frame, so it’s best to leave the original paintwork in place and roughen it up slightly to allow a new paint job to adhere. Repairing a carbon fiber frame is best left to professionals from start to finish. In some cases, a repair is also possible by replacing damaged layers of carbon fiber fabric – also a job for professionals. On this page, Damon Rinard describes how he repaired a carbon fiber frame that he had already built. Aluminum is much softer than steel, so chemical paint stripping is the preferred method for an aluminum frame. Abrasive particles have been reported to embed themselves in aluminum and affect the finish. Aluminum also requires special preparation and priming. With aluminum, it’s best to send the frame to a shop that specializes in removing paint from aluminum, most often using chemicals. Titanium is often left untreated as it does not rust. Then painting is not an issue. Titanium is softer than steel, and like aluminum, any paint should be removed with a chemical stripper. Chemical strippers are highly toxic. Chemical paint stripping should preferably be carried out in a professional workshop environment with exhaust air filtration. Once the surface has softened, it can be removed with water, solvents or a mild abrasive such as steel wool or a Scotchbrite™ pad. It is common practice to remove paint from a steel frame with abrasive cleaners. Sandblasting is the generic term for this job, but sand easily erodes steel pipe. Glass bead blasting is much gentler. In larger cities there are shops that do this work. Before you take a frame to a shop—unless it’s a shop with experience working on bike frames—you need to protect surfaces that you don’t want to be rubbed or where you don’t want particles to get stuck. Partially thread old bottom bracket shells into the bottom bracket and wrap them in duct tape, install an old headset and block the vent holes with toothpicks. Adhesive tape is tough enough to withstand blasts and keep abrasive particles out of the frame. Bottom bracket taped (and already blasted) for blasting:

Duct tape wrapped around the old bottom bracket shell. In addition, you or the workshop must remove oil, grease and derusting residues before blasting. Blasting may not completely eliminate these and can drive them into pores in the metal. Deruster can be washed off with water. (The phosphoric acid leaves an anti-rust layer that will withstand a rinse). A solvent cleaner works for grease and oil. If the frame has been waxed, a specialty cleaner such as PPG DX330 Wax and Grease Remover, Sherwin Williams R7K156 Solvent Cleaner, or DuPont 3919S Prep-Sol is recommended as blasting can leave wax residue in the pores of the finish. I took the tandem frame to a local metal shop, Fortune Metal Finishing. in Needham, Massachusetts. In the photo below, Sean from Fortune Metal Finishing holds the tandem frame after blasting. Now it’s free of color. Sean holds the frame with his bare hand. Oils from his skin and other possible contaminants must be cleaned again with solvents before painting. A professional painter will do this, or you can do it again with a solvent cleaner.

odors and toxicity

Solvent cleaners, and especially grease and wax removers, are toxic and smelly. This is one of the reasons why you should leave the painting to professionals after derusting. Most household paints are now water-based. Thanks to advances in chemistry, their durability is acceptable – but they are not suitable for painting bicycle frames. Any solvent based paint will be smelly and more or less unhealthy. Some are worse than others. Consider this carefully when deciding whether to solvent clean and paint the frame yourself and where to do your work. Your smell tolerance is likely greater than that of your spouse, roommates, or landlord. After all, you get something from your work: a reconditioned bike. You only get the smells!

primer and topcoat

Any finish for steel must begin with an anti-rust primer. This works like an electric battery, but on a microscopic scale. A material is eroded when an electric current flows between it and the other material when they are wet. If the two materials are zinc and steel, the zinc will eat away and protect the steel. Primers contain zinc, which is slowly being eaten away. “Acid Etch” primer is now popular for use on auto body panels and adheres particularly well to steel, but it is not suitable on its own under some paints. If used, this should be followed by the primer specially formulated for that colour. A chip on the chainstay of my fixie. The center of the chip is bare metal

and the gray area around it is primer that kept it from rusting. . The top coat or coats prevent moisture penetration as much as possible – but a top coat alone will not prevent rust. Moisture gets in somehow, through a crack, scratch, or chip, or by absorption, and without the primer, rust will spread beneath the paint. A beautiful paint job doesn’t last forever – but with the right preparation and priming under the top coat(s) it should last for many years.

Painting, spraying or powder coating?

The three common methods of applying paint to a bike frame are brushing, spraying or powder coating. Think about how much you are willing to spend, how important the look of the frame is to you, and how much work you will be doing yourself. Paintable or sprayable surfaces are of three general types: water-based, like most common paints;

Paints that apply in relatively thick layers, or

Varnishes that use a highly volatile (rapidly evaporating and toxic) solvent and dry quickly. Paints were common on cars up until the 1960s, but are no longer widely used. Enamel is more durable. Whatever you do, you need to cover up areas where you don’t want the paint to go. The same masking you used for blasting will also work for painting, except if you want to bake the finish. Then the masking must be heat resistant. Brush You can brush paint. Brushing is easier, less messy, and less hazardous to health than spraying, but generally doesn’t produce great-looking results. Sometimes that’s not what you want anyway. This is Sheldon’s Robin Hood bike. His explanation: “Whenever I was around someone using paint, I would borrow the brush and dab a few dabs on it to deter thieves. I painted everything on it except the saddle.” More about this bike… Most paints use a petroleum based solvent and dry by evaporation, taking weeks to fully cure. Additional hardening occurs through chemical crosslinking, which builds up larger molecules. Baking can greatly speed up drying and curing, but is not a practical choice for DIY jobs. Marine epoxy paint – primer and top coat – can be purchased at marine supply stores. It largely avoids the drying problem because it’s two components that you mix together like epoxy glue. Most curing occurs within a few hours through a chemical reaction. A marine epoxy enamel coating is thick – so only a few coats are required – and very durable. If you brush it up it can get really ugly as it tends to sag and drip. However, ugliness is an advantage where it deters thieves. Since you can apply the coating yourself, the cost is low. Despite its low solvent content, marine epoxy enamel stinks and is so toxic that you should mix and apply it outdoors or in a detached shed or garage. About 30 years ago I refinished three frames with brushed on marine epoxy. The paint sagged and dripped, and I received a lot of criticism from friends for my “drizzle-painted” frames. Two of these frames are still in use, with no post-processing. The third frame was the Raleigh Twenty, which I ride on salted roads through Boston winters. After about 20 years I re-done the marine epoxy after a frame repair. After another 10 years I replaced the frame as it had rusted through from the inside as I showed earlier in this article. Here is my fixie, still ugly and rust free, more than 30 years after receiving the marine epoxy treatment. Spraying Spraying followed by air drying or baking is the traditional way of painting a bike frame. It can be anything from “rattle can” work to auto body work to very fancy artistic fades from a specialist bike refinish shop. Spraying inevitably creates overspray. Droplets of liquid paint are carried in the air. These stink and are unhealthy. There are even horror stories of workers repeatedly spray-painting the insides of their lungs until they could no longer breathe properly and had to resort to an oxygen tank. For occasional, small jobs with the rattle can, you can probably get away with spraying outdoors when the wind blows away from you, but if you use spray paint more than occasionally, you should wear a face mask — preferably not just a plain fiber face mask, but a professional respirator with dust and mist filters, activated carbon elements and a one-way exhaust valve. The mask must fit snugly against the face so that all intake air can pass through the filters. Safety goggles or goggles are also a good idea: you don’t want to get any spray on your eyes or glasses. Professional painters use a ventilated spray booth with exhaust filtration, which also minimizes air pollution. Spray paint followed by baking is the traditional treatment for everything from new cars to refrigerators to bike frames. A good spray painted finish requires multiple coats – first the anti-rust primer, then coats of paint and often a coat of clear coat to add shine. A body shop or professional bike frame shop can spray more efficiently than you. The color of choice for bicycle frames is Dupont Imron Enamel. Like this frame, for example, which Sheldon built himself – but he didn’t paint it himself like Robin Hood. Spraying two-part marine epoxy enamel is impractical for do-it-yourself jobs because it requires special equipment and careful cleaning to avoid clogging. Since sprayed epoxy droplets harden in the lungs, this poses a high health risk. I suppose you could take your frame to a boat builder to have it spray painted with marine grade epoxy for a better look and to avoid the mess and exposure to chemicals, but I haven’t researched this myself. Powder Coating Powder coating has emerged in the last few decades and uses an electrostatic charge – like that which makes a cat’s hair stand on end when you pet it – to attract particles of a powder to the object to be painted. The powder has the consistency of flour. The powder is sprayed on. The object to be sprayed in the photo is part of a machine that processes silicon chips used in integrated circuits. Oven baking melts the powder into a smooth coating. In the photo below, Joe of Coating Application Technologies in Woburn, Massachusetts, USA, stands in the company’s walk-in oven. He checked a thermometer on the side of the oven before opening the doors and stepping inside. It was only 65 degrees Celsius. During use, the temperature is 121 degrees Celsius (250 degrees Fahrenheit). In these conditions he would have avoided going inside. If you’re having a tandem bike frame powder coated, you need to make sure the oven is big enough. This is. Powder coating uses no solvents or leaves liquid overspray, making it relatively environmentally friendly and clean. It creates a strong, smooth and durable coating. A “metallic” (glittering) coating is possible. Bicycle fork with metallic (glittering) powder coating.

The steerer tube and brake hubs were previously masked

Applying the powder. Due to the special equipment, powder coating is only practical in a professional environment. Nevertheless, it is economical compared to other professional coating processes. Only two or three shifts are needed to complete a job. The first coat is an anti-rust primer. Due to baking, powder coating is not suitable for frames or forks that are partially or fully carbon fiber or have chemically bonded parts. The frame or fork must be electrically conductive – metal – but heat-resistant putty can hide rust pits, ugly welds and the like. Covering needs to be heat resistant – no duct tape or masking tape – and it’s important to remove or block any oil and grease residue inside a bike frame where it could liquify and spill out during baking, spoiling the finish. A good powder coating shop knows how to address these issues. Powder coating can be thermoplastic: it will melt again when reheated, or more thermosetting: it will permanently set when baked. Thermoplastic powder coating is particularly easy to touch up. Powder can be applied only to the area that needs touching up and then heated locally. The new powder blends seamlessly into the environment. It is possible to re-colour a powder-coated item by lightly sanding and then spraying on a solvent-based paint that dries at room temperature. Changing the color with an additional powder paint only makes sense after removing the original paint, as this would melt and mix with the new paint. Marbled surfaces might be possible if you take advantage of this, but I’ll leave the experimentation to someone else. I had the tandem frame powder coated. This is how it looked when it was finished. Well done!

Internal rust protection

Avoiding internal rust is a good first step when assembling a bike. Old Raleigh three-speed frames with the matte black finish had baked enamel inside and out, but few modern frames have internal protection against rust. There is a commercial product designed to prevent rusting in bicycle frames: J.P. Weigle’s Frame Saver. You spray it into the bike’s frame tubes, where it partially hardens and forms a sticky protective layer. A thin hose that attaches to the spray nozzle allows you to work around corners and spray into vent holes, water bottle bosses and the like. I had some problems with Frame Saver. I couldn’t figure out how to get to the inside of all the tubes on some frames. Also, the coating left by Frame Saver is so slippery that I had to tighten the seatpost clamp on one of my bikes extra tight or the seatpost would slide down. But if you’ve used Frame Saver, you probably won’t have a stuck seatpost problem. Another product that is often used for rust protection in bicycle frames is Boeshield T9. This is advertised as a protective agent, but also as a lubricant. It is sometimes used for bicycle chains. Boeshield T9 produces a waxy coating that can be removed with a solvent if required. In a bicycle frame, a Boeshield T9 coating is likely to last a few years, although it is not as tough as Frame Saver. Avoid putting any of these products on surfaces that require threadlocking compound—especially bottom bracket threads, which are difficult to clean. You can seal these with tape and leave them in place until the frame protection fluid stops leaking out. If you turn the frame again and again, the liquid is distributed in the tubes. If the frame is ever re-baked T9 will likely liquify and Frame Saver may release vapor – so it would probably be a good idea to let the frame bake before applying the finish to eliminate this problem before baking again. T9 will not catch fire at the temperatures used for baking enamel or powder coating! The seatstays and fork blades usually have ventilation holes that prevented heat-expanded air from being blown out of the soldering or welding points when the bike was built. Bike guru Jobst Brandt recommends closing them to keep water out. Good idea – but leave a drain hole under the bottom bracket. There is a link to Brandt’s advice at the end of this article. He objects to the anti-rust coating on the inside of the frame, but I disagree.

reassembly

Now you’re back to reinstalling components on the bike. The procedures are described in other articles on this site. You must first check if the paint is clogging any of the threads or bearing rings. If they were well masked, that didn’t happen, but it can happen. These problems can usually be corrected with a scraper (e.g. for the ends of the bottom bracket shell) or by running a bolt through a bolt hole. If the threads are badly clogged, you can grind down the end of the screw to make it work like a tap. Avoid filing away metal, especially on the headset bearing seats.

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Reports of the demise of this site are grossly exaggerated! We at sheldonbrown.com thank Harris Cyclery for their many years of support. Harris Cyclery is closed but we’re moving on. Keep visiting the site for new and updated articles and news about possible new affiliations.

Copyright © 2013 John Allen