Equipment Used To Control A Horse? The 191 Correct Answer

Horse Jargon Definition: Equestrian Terms for Beginners

Eliminate confusing horse jargon by defining commonly used terms.

Riding lessons can be a great way to build confidence in riders of all ages. However, nothing will erode your confidence like the confusing language riding instructors often use. If you’ve ever felt like your riding instructor is speaking in some ancient secret code, you can take comfort in knowing you’re not alone. While most instructors do their best to explain subjects simply and accurately so you can improve as a driver, even the best teachers forget to explain basic jargon.

In this brand new series of articles from the Michigan State University Extension, we will work to define many common terms, starting here with terms commonly heard in a beginner horseback riding lesson. Many of these terms build on each other, and these terms are used for riders of all ages and skill levels. While not all terms are covered, the following terms are common to a variety of riding styles and disciplines.

discipline

Let’s start with a word used right in the introduction of this article, discipline. Although this term is often closely associated with work ethic, it has a very different definition in this context. Discipline refers to a type or style of riding. Some examples include, but are not limited to, dressage, western, hunt seat, hunter jumper, trail riding, and gymkhana.

Inside versus outside

The terms inside and outside are used to describe location in relation to where you are in the arena. You may hear a riding instructor, coach, or trainer say something along the lines of “inside leg” or “outside rein.”

The term outside means the side to the outside of the arena or outside of a circle. Likewise, the term inside refers to the side toward the middle or innermost area of ​​the arena or circle. Once learned, these spatial concepts can be used very effectively by riders of all skill levels and abilities, certainly not just beginners.

rail

The fence, wall, or outer barrier of the arena is typically referred to as a railing. “Hold your horse by the railing” is another way of saying, “Don’t allow your horse to come inside/middle of the arena.”

soft hands

Defining this term is certainly much easier than developing “soft hands” as a skill. This difficult task is essentially the ability to keep your hands, which are attached directly to a bit in the horse’s mouth, soft, forgiving, and supple when steering, stopping, or giving the horse a pull that involves the reins. This task is much more difficult for an unbalanced, anxious rider.

Developing soft and supple hands that maintain a reasonably constant pressure on the horse’s mouth is a skill that takes years and many hours in the saddle to develop. Pulling the reins quickly, hard, or hard would be the opposite of soft hands.

deep seat

Effective riders can communicate with their horses in many ways. Above we described how gentle hands can be one means of communication, another is the driver’s seat. To use their seat, a rider must move in unison with their horse, rather than fighting the horse’s movement. In order for a rider to sit still, he must move in unison with the horse’s movement. In order to move with a horse’s movement, a rider should work to develop a deep seat where they place the majority of their weight on their sit bones (remember to sit on their pants pocket, not in the crotch.). An effective deep seat can help a horse perform an athletic task.

steady leg

This term is similar to Soft Hands, but refers specifically to a rider’s legs. A rider with a steady leg will often have legs that move very little and only put pressure around the horse to create a kind of cue. A rider who moves his leg a lot while sitting on the horse is likely to accidentally kick the horse and possibly confuse the horse. If a driver doesn’t have steady legs, however, you wouldn’t say they have “noisy legs”. Instead, you can describe this rider as “leg-busy” or “leg-unsteady.”

more leg

A riding instructor will typically say “more leg” when they want the rider to put more leg pressure on the horse’s side. An effective rider will often apply constant, gentle pressure to a horse’s side while riding. There are a variety of reasons why horses respond differently to pressure, such as: B. Training level, discipline and individual preferences.

Shorten, tighten or loosen the reins

The rein is what the rider holds in their hands and is attached directly to a bit in the horse’s mouth. This serves as a direct line of communication between a horse and the rider’s hands. Rein length refers to the length of the rein between the rider’s hands and the horse’s mouth. The ideal rein length can vary depending on the task a rider demands of the horse. Therefore, a riding instructor can train a rider by telling them to shorten or lengthen their reins before performing a task.

Shortening the reins would mean that the rider would decrease the amount of rein between his hands and the horse’s mouth by moving his hands on the reins towards the horse’s mouth. Another way to describe this would be “tighten the reins”, “tighten the reins” or “slacken the reins”. Depending on how much a rider shortens his reins, this can increase the pressure on the horse’s mouth.

Conversely, if the rider needs to “lengthen the reins,” “loosen the reins,” or “give the horse more slack,” he will move his hands away from the horse’s mouth. This is done to relieve the pressure on a horse’s mouth.

heels down

One of the most common idioms in a riding lesson is heels off, but the term really describes so much more than what happens to the rider’s feet. When a rider’s foot is in a stirrup (or even when the rider is riding without a stirrup), their heel should be substantially closer to the ground than their toes. An effective rider will achieve this by stretching their legs and allowing the weight of their body to sink into both their seat and a low, flexible heel. Low heels are a manifestation of a rider who has a deep seat and steady leg. If the rider doesn’t keep their weight constant on their stirrup and a dropped heel, they will also have a harder time keeping their foot properly in the stirrup.

basis

Groundwork refers to working with a horse while it is not mounted. Many training concepts are only introduced to horse and rider through effective ground work. Groundwork is often less intimidating for new riders, but groundwork with a horse can still be dangerous. It is crucial that a horse, especially a beginner horse, have excellent ground manners to reduce the risks and dangers of ground work. Horses should respect human personal space and be aware of their surroundings to avoid the risk of injury to horse and human. It is a person’s job to reinforce good ground manners.

While this list of terms may seem daunting at first, hopefully this has helped clear up some confusion. Look for the next articles in this series on advanced riding conditions and horse sales conditions shortly.

You may have seen riders using belly bands on their horses and wondered what that is. Here are some things you need to know about this device…

What is a belly band?

The belly band is a neoprene or lycra bandage that wraps around the horse’s body and sits directly on the back under the saddle and behind the girth. It prevents abrasions and marks from spurs or the rider’s leg and is easy to attach, with a Velcro strap under the horse’s belly, Velcro straps that wrap around the girth and clips that attach to the saddle’s D-rings.

How can you help?

“Some horses have such sensitive skin that just rubbing their heels on their flanks causes friction sores and sores,” says Liza Oestreich, dressage rider at the Prix St. Georges in New York. “It’s rare and obviously not always why they’re used – but it’s certainly one of the uses.” I have also seen them used to protect ponies from small children who are not yet able to control their legs. The pony shouldn’t suffer because the child can’t ride well yet.”

As FEI blood rules become more stringent and top riders are disqualified because of spur marks on their horse’s sides, belly bands appear to be a practical solution. It wouldn’t have stopped Steffan Peters’ elimination from the 2015 Reem Acra World Cup Final in Las Vegas over spur marks on Legolas, which are illegal in FEI dressage competitions (as well as British dressage), but it might have saved Bertram Allen’s Grand Prix victory at the Olympia in 2015 when he was disqualified for a small cut on the side of Quiet Easy. They are eligible in British and FEI show jumping, as well as the show jumping and cross-country phases of British eventing.

Jessica Moore, who groomed for international Brazilian show jumper Nando de Miranda, says: “It shocks me that more riders aren’t using this tool in show jumping considering there hasn’t been a lot of high profile spur trail elimination lately are.”

This includes not only Bertram but also Scott Brash in the Global Champions League competition in Cascais and Marcus Ehning in the Nations Cup in Hickstead.

Why are some people skeptical?

As helpful as it may be for thin-skinned horses or accidental rubs when crossing tall fences, the belly band is a piece of tack that’s almost as controversial as the spur markings themselves.

Like many riders, Jenna Calcaterra, owner of a boarding and training stable in Virginia, believes they are (quite literally) filling gaps in the training of both rider and horse. “If you bleed a horse with spurs, a) your horse is dead on your leg and that can be fixed with a little more training, or b) your lower leg is so loose that you accidentally bleed.”

Eventing champion Lucinda Green says she never thought of using one, instead recommending “taking the horse out for some fun rides, then maybe it moves forward with a little more ease and enthusiasm.”

continued below…

Where can you buy one?

Belly bands can be bought online from a number of suppliers, including American company Equifit and Scandinavian company Horze.

Also known as ‘spur guards’, they are sold by manufacturers such as LoveHorses in Italy and Beval in the US.

For the latest news analysis, competition reports, interviews, features and more, don’t miss Horse & Hound magazine, available every Thursday

This is the first in a series of posts covering the individual requirements in the Horsemanship stream of the Cavaliere program, starting at Level 1. Even if you already have Horsemanship 1, this material is worth reviewing as all Subsequent levels are built on this foundation. The first item on the checklist is:

1. Identify the color, off and on the side, and twenty simple parts of the horse

Near and offside

The horse’s left side is its near side, the right side is its off side. We lead horses, straighten their bridles and mount from the near side. Believe it or not, this all goes back to the days when swords were carried on horseback. Since a sword is usually hung from the left hip, mounting from the left means the sword and scabbard does not have to cross over the horse’s back when the rider swings his leg across. When you mount sword in hand, your left hand can control the reins and right hand can control your sword as you mount.

colour

The only horse coat colors that have unique names are black, tan, and gray, and there are even subtleties in them. Fortunately, there are many websites and books with color images to study, and the Wikipedia entry is quite extensive. For level 1 you need to know the following:

Brown: Brown or reddish fur with a black mane and tail

Chestnut: Light brown or copper colored coat with matching (or flaxen) mane and tail

Grey: including variations such as mottled (dark circles of hair) or fleabitte (dark patches)

Piebald: large black and white spots

Skewbald: large patches of a different color and white

Deerskin: Gold or dun with black mane and tail

Palomino: Gold with white mane and tail

Spotted (Appaloosa colouration): small dark spots on white or white on dark

Roan (blue and red): an even mix of dark and white hair

Twenty simple parts of the horse

Again, there are plenty of references online for this, or you can simply browse to the inside front cover of The Manual of Horsemanship. For level one, you should know at least 20 of the following:

Poll, ear, snout, crest, mane, neck, withers, shoulder, elbow, forearm, knee, cannon, pastern, pastern, coronary ligament, hoof, back, leg, loin, croup, dock, tail, knee, larynx, hock

Why do I need to know this?

While this kind of knowledge may seem rather trivial or esoteric at first glance, being able to share the common language of the Riders is actually quite important. If you are asked to catch the chestnut mare and check her off the pastern before pinning, you had better not come off the field with the bay and look at her knees!

move on

For higher levels of horsemanship you need to know face and leg markings, color points, breeds, types and conformation. The Manual of Horsemanship is a good place to start and there is a wealth of information available online.

Next: Approach and Halter

This week in the Cavaliere program

Riding & Riding

A new series of Riding & Horsemanship starts this Sunday in the stables. This is an ideal place for beginners to learn how to handle and ride horses. Advanced students will work at higher levels of horsemanship. The ring dries up and the game gear comes out so experienced riders can also start working on their mounted games skills.

Sundays 10:00 a.m. – 1:30 p.m

March 11 and 25, April 15 and 22

Red Colt Equestrian Farm Co-op, 12320 No. 2 Road, Richmond

Cost: $60 per session; $200 for a series of four

Horsemanship only: $30 per session; $100 for a series of four

Finally, for your “Awww” moment this week:

A rider with a well-balanced, independent seat that allows her to give precise cues.

Riding aids are the cues a rider gives to a horse to tell what the animal should do. Riding aids are divided into natural aids and artificial aids.

Natural remedies[edit]

These are the aids that the rider has on their body and should be used for most cues to the horse.[1] Excessive use of any aids can be detrimental to the horse’s training, but in general hard or rough hands are considered the worst crime a rider can commit when using the natural aids. Natural remedies include:

leg

hand

Seat

Voice

It is important to remember that the aids are used on a spectrum, from very light to very strong, depending on the response desired. A very sensitive horse may jump forward slightly with a light touch on the leg, while a horse used to leg press may need a kick to get the same response. In addition, for example, a canter-to-walk assist will require slightly more postural support on a particular horse than that horse would need in the canter-to-trot transition.

The positioning of the legs, seat and hands are also used on a spectrum to suit the individual horse and the desired response. For example, assisting the dismount may require the leg to be in a slightly different location than when asking the horse to bend or correcting a trailing hindquarters.

In all cases, good training aims to get the horse to respond to the slightest cue, rather than requiring harsh cues to get a response. Responsiveness is trained primarily through the use of positive and negative reinforcement and classical conditioning. A well-trained horse may be more difficult to ride as it responds to the rider’s slightest movement or shift of weight. They might interpret a driver’s error as a cue to do something (e.g., a slight pinch of the legs as a cue to run forward, or a slight imbalance in the driver’s seat as a cue to step sideways or accelerate). Riders must therefore be sure that alleged “disobedience” is not actually caused by themselves.

Good rider training aims to produce someone with an “independent seat”, i.e. someone who is able to give the aids independently (without, for example, sitting forward while adding a leg). The rider’s first task is to learn to ride the horse without interfering: maintaining steady contact with the bit, sitting in a balanced, relaxed position that allows him to absorb the horse’s movements, and a keeping a steady, steady leg that doesn’t pinch, hop, or slide forward or backward. Only then can the rider really begin to influence the horse to help him.

The leg[edit]

Use the leg aid slightly behind the “neutral” position to keep the horse properly flexed on a circle. Note that the majority of rotation assists are given with the legs, not the hands.

The leg, along with the seat, should be the horse’s primary support. It has great control over the horse’s hindquarters and is used to instruct the horse to walk forward, increase momentum (power), walk sideways and bend correctly. It is the primary “driving aid” (cue to prompt the horse to increase forward motion or power).[2]

Both legs in a neutral position (neither forward nor backward) and even pressure against the horse’s sides generally require an increase in speed or an upward transition (eg, walk to trot). Depending on the height of the bondage aids (buttocks and hands), the leg can also require an increase in impulse, collection or even the reins. At the same time, to ask a horse to back up, a rider uses soft rein aids to prevent the horse from stepping forward, but uses the legs to demand movement, causing the horse to move backwards. It is wrong to ask for a turn on the reins by pulling or jerking the reins.

One leg in a neutral position, or slightly back from neutral if exerted more than the other leg, prompts the horse to move sideways from its push. Depending on the number of restraint aids (seat and hands), various side movements can be triggered, ranging from leg yield or half pass to side pass, club rotation or forehand rotation to pirouettes.

One leg further back in a supportive passive role and the other leg in a neutral position but in an active role, prompting the horse to lean toward the neutral leg. For example, on a circle going to the right, the rider will place his outside leg a little further back and use the inside leg in the neutral position to ask the horse to bend properly through his body. This is also important when declaring moves that require a bend, such as B. the half-pass or the pirouette.

One leg further back, the other leg in a neutral position, both actively supporting the horse in walking forward and usually helping the horse to canter. The horse picks up the leash opposite the leg that is farther back.

The hands [edit]

The rider’s right direct rein bends the horse in that direction. It is supported by proper leg aids, with the inside leg at the perimeter and the outside leg at the back.

The hands communicate with the horse from the reins to the bit. You have the most control over the horse’s head and shoulders and relatively little control over the animal’s hindquarters. The hands are primarily used for two purposes: as a “holding aid” (an aid that blocks or contains the horse’s forward energy) or as a guiding aid that encourages the horse to go in a certain direction.

Both hands, pulled back and used together, act as a holding aid. Depending on the rider’s restraint, this may prompt the horse to stop, make a downward transition, back off, or bring its hind legs further under its body, increasing momentum or collection. The hands should be used in conjunction with the legs as a support aid. When the rider slows “all in hands” (without using the leg), he creates an unbalanced transition, with the horse on the forehand. This leg-hand balance must be learned by the rider, and most beginners simply stop by pulling the reins back.

One rein used more than the other can create a lead effect. There are 3 main hand tack aids where the inside rein directs the horse in the direction of the tack. However, all should be used with an outside support rein to keep the horse’s shoulders straight and contain energy.

Direct Rein: A rein pulls straight back, encouraging the horse to turn in the direction of the push.

Indirect bridle or carrying bridle: pulls back in toward the horse’s outside hip without crossing over the neck, although the bridle may touch the inside of the neck. This is typically used to correct straightness problems in the horse’s neck and shoulders, as well as in lateral movements such as turning in.

, without crossing over the neck, although the reins are allowed to touch the inside of the neck. This is typically used to correct straightness problems in the horse’s neck and shoulders, as well as in lateral movements such as turning in. Opening the reins: Does not pull back, but the rider moves his hands away from the horse’s neck in the direction of the turn. This is especially useful when the rider wants to spin in the air while jumping over a fence.

Neck rein: placing the rein on the outside of the horse’s neck, usually to support an inside rein sign when using both hands. Also used to turn a horse without bit contact,

Raising the hands causes the pressure of the bit to be more on the horse’s lips (as opposed to the corners of his mouth). Although not the most common position, it can occasionally be used as a training tool.

A hard upward jerk with one hand (with the other firmly on the neck) is used in a technique called the “one-rein stop”. This is an emergency technique when the horse runs away with its rider and no other method can stop it.

The neck rein is used in western riding. The rider, holding the reins in one hand, moves that hand in one direction or another so that the reins put pressure on the horse’s neck to prompt it to turn. The bit doesn’t come into play. This technique is also occasionally used by English-style riders.

Like the leg aids, the heaviness of the hands can convey different things. Thus, light resistance supported with the leg can act as a semi-stop, while greater resistance signals the horse to stop.

The seat[edit]

A driver’s seat.

Opinions differ on the definition of “seat”, but most agree that it encompasses the rider’s hip region, including the sit bones and pelvis, the thighs, all of which need to be supple and balanced to properly accommodate movement. The seat is one of the more difficult aids to develop as the rider must first learn to relax and sit on the horse without bouncing or interfering with its movement before learning to use the seat as an aid. The human center of gravity is just above the pelvis. By tilting the pelvis backwards very slightly (tummy sucks in but keeping a “long torso”), the center of gravity shifts and the horse slows or stops, depending on the horse and the degree of inclination. By pushing the pelvis forward half an inch, the center of gravity will encourage the horse to move faster.

Most of the time, the seat remains in a neutral position in the saddle and does not slow down or encourage forward movement, but simply follows and absorbs the horse’s movement. In general, the rider’s hips should be placed to mimic the position of the horse’s hips, and the rider’s shoulders should mirror the position of the horse’s shoulders. This allows the rider to follow the movement properly, helps keep the rider’s balance in the saddle, and helps lead the horse with minimal effort.

The seat can be used as a restraint aid, temporarily stopping its subsequent movement with the horse. This is usually used in conjunction with the hands, known as a half stop, with some support from the legs.[3]

By putting weight on one sitbone or the other, you can encourage bending in that direction. This should always be used with the inside leg asking the horse to bend around it and the outside leg providing the momentum for the bend. The hands also ask the horse to bend, with a light direct or indirect rein. A more advanced form of this set of aids is seen in the half-pass, where the outside leg encourages the horse to step over, the inside opening rein encourages this movement, and the inside sit bone and leg maintain the bend in the direction of travel.

A sit bone can also actively push forward and sideways into the horse to encourage the canter. This is used in conjunction with the legs and hands in the appropriate places.

Finally, the seat can also be used as a driving aid if the rider tilts their hips back slightly and presses both sit bones into the saddle (like pumping a swing). This technique is generally discouraged as it is considered uncomfortable for the horse, causes a loss of flexibility through the hips for the rider and the legs should be the primary driving aid.

voice [edit]

Voice should be used very little as a cue under saddle, although depending on the horse being ridden it can often be an excellent aid in communicating with the horse if used well. It is sometimes used as a reprimand (like a stern “No!”) or, more commonly, as a means of praising the animal. Certain verbal sounds, such as “cackling,” can be used as cues to encourage the horse to move forward, or soothing sounds can calm an angry or nervous animal. However, it is important to note that in certain competitions (e.g. dressage) use of the voice is penalized and excessive use of the voice is generally frowned upon in most types of competition. Despite the limited use of vocal aids under saddle, voice commands are very common when lunging.

Horses learn verbal commands very well: “Wow”, “step”, “trot”, “gallop” or similar words are quickly understood. The actual words usually don’t matter as long as they’re consistent, although the intonation and stress of the word does have an impact. A soothing tone helps emphasize commands to slow down, an upbeat voice can emphasize commands to go forward. A friendly tone of voice can be helpful when praising a horse, and a harsh or snarling tone when reprimanding. However, overuse of the voice (like overuse of any aid) can dull the horse to its effect. In general, it is best to rely on your legs, seat and hands over voice when driving. The main role of the voice is to give the horse confidence.[4]

Riding school horses that hear the trainers telling the students what to do are known to obey spoken commands, sometimes giving the false impression that the horse is obeying the rider. Likewise, experienced show horses sometimes respond to gear change commands given by the announcer over the speaker system instead of listening to their riders.

Artificial aids[ edit ]

These are devices that the rider wears or wears to support the natural aids or to discipline the horse. They should not be overused as they will cause the horse to become deadened to natural aids and some horses (especially the more sensitive animals) may panic and distrust people. Extreme use of the artificial aids can constitute abuse and many equestrian organizations have strict rules regarding style and use.

Bits or hackamores[ edit ]

The most common artificial aid is the bit or hackamore, used in conjunction with a bridle and reins to allow the rider’s hands to communicate with the horse’s mouth. Depending on the design and the skill of the rider, these tools can range from very gentle to very hard. While some horses can be trained without being ridden without any type of headgear, such a methodology is usually limited to narrow-area show purposes. Rampant riding, especially outdoors, can be dangerous if the horse is startled or tries to run away, since even a horse trained in such a technique is still a prey animal and has natural fight-or-flight responses that override its training can set in a crisis situation.

track [ edit ]

The Spur.

The spur is attached to the rider’s boot and is used to secure the rider’s leg aids. Spurs are not intended as punishment. Use of the spur can range from a brief, light touch to encourage more momentum to a sharp nudge at a horse that refuses to go forward. The spur should only be used by experienced riders.

Although the level of violence as abusive use of the spur can vary between riders, spurs should not be used to the point where they draw blood. In addition, many equestrian organizations have strict rules regarding the type of spur (generally it must be blunt) and the length allowed. Spurs with rowels (small rotating wheels that sometimes have blunt tips) may or may not be allowed depending on the discipline and organizational rules.

whip [ edit ]

Above: a dressage crop. Below: a hunting crop

The whip is usually longer and more flexible than a crop or bat, and has a whip at its end. The whip is used to secure the rider’s leg aids. In addition, with light strokes, it can be used as a training tool when teaching the horse to collect its gaits or perform movements such as the piaffe. Types of whips include:

Dressage whip: for training purposes while riding and to secure the rider’s leg aids when the horse is unresponsive. It is usually around 90 cm long and has a short whip at its end. While riding, it is intended to be used without taking the reins in one hand, but simply by a flick of the wrist.

Long Whip: Has a very long shaft (usually around 180 cm) and whip (5 to 6 feet (150 to 180 cm)). It is used almost exclusively for lunging where the large distance between horse and trainer necessitates the great length. It is also occasionally used to encourage a horse to move further forward off the ground, e.g. B. a horse that doesn’t want to jump over a fence or load into a trailer. This whip is used to replace the rider’s leg aids when lunging.

Driving whip: Longer than a dressage whip but shorter than a lunging whip. Specially developed for use while driving. This crop replaces the rider’s leg aids and prompts the horse to go forward or turn.

The length of the whip is usually regulated by riding associations.

Harvest, bat, or “stick” [ edit ]

The crop or bat is a very short, stiffer variant of the whip, about 2 to 2+1⁄2 feet (60 to 75 cm) long, with a leather button on the end. The rider uses the crop behind his leg or on the horse’s shoulder to secure the leg aids if the horse is unresponsive. It is also a common means of disciplining, e.g. B. when a horse refuses to jump, or dangerous misconduct such as kicking.

Most equestrian organizations have rules for using the crop in competitions. These include regulations on the maximum length, the maximum number of strokes on the horse (usually no more than three hard strokes with the whip held upright), where it may be struck (most do not allow the crop to be used everywhere). near the animal’s face) and circumstances in which it can be used (e.g. it can be used immediately after a refusal, but not after the rider has left the show arena to blame the horse for poor performance to punish”).

References[edit]

^ Complete Equestrian Manual p. 120. Dorling Kindersley 2003. 978-0-7513-6444-6. Micklem, William.p. 120. Dorling Kindersley 2003. ISBN ^ The Principles of Riding, p. 69. Kenilworth Press 2013. ISBN 978-1-872119-71-7. Deutscher Reiterbund., p. 69. Kenilworth Press 2013. ^ The Principles of Riding, p. 97. Kenilworth Press 2013. ISBN 978-1-872119-71-7. Deutscher Reiterbund., p. 97. Kenilworth Press 2013. ^ The Principles of Riding p. 79. Kenilworth Press 2013. ISBN 978-1-872119-71-7. Deutscher Reiterbund.p. 79. Kenilworth Press 2013.

Horse collar, device made of leather or leather and metal enclosing a horse’s neck, to which tracks are attached and used to hitch the animal to a wagon or plow. A Dutch collar consists of a wide band across the chest and a narrow band across the withers; Traces are attached to the wide band. A Hames collar is heavily padded; Iron protrusions (hames) surrounding the padding contain eyepieces for the reins and tracks.

The horse collar, popular in Europe in the 12th century, was one of the most important inventions of the Middle Ages. Horses harnessed like oxen in the old European way had pulled inefficiently because their harness went down their windpipe and choked them as they pulled. The padded horse collar pressed against the animal’s shoulders and thus did not choke it. The use of the horse’s collar accelerated the development of transportation and trade, and greatly increased the use of the horse as a draft animal.

If you are new to the world of horseback riding, you may have heard the term horse harness but are not quite sure what it means. To clear up any confusion, we’ve put together this quick guide on the term, including answers to some other common questions you might have about what bridles stand for and what they entail.

What is horse harness?

What is horse harness? Horse harness refers to all equipment used to ride, handle, and care for a domesticated horse. Tack includes equipment such as a saddle, saddle pad, stirrups, girths, bridle, reins and more.

The term is primarily used to refer to the riding gear (hence the phrase “pinning”, meaning fitting a horse with all the items necessary for riding). Tack itself is a set of gear rather than a specific item. For this reason, shops that sell horse equipment are called tack shops or tack stores, and your trainer may tell you to tack your horse when it’s time to get your horse ready to ride.

Common tack equipment

Many different types of horse equipment fall under the general concept of bridles. The more familiar you become with riding horses, the more natural it becomes to no longer refer to these items as individual pieces of equipment, but rather as a generic term.

Here are some of the most common horse harnesses:

Saddle: A supportive leather structure that serves as a seat for the rider.

A supportive leather structure that serves as a seat for the driver. Saddle Blanket: A padded cloth placed under the saddle for the horse’s comfort. In English horsemanship this is called a saddlecloth.

A padded cloth placed under the saddle for the horse’s comfort. In English horsemanship this is called a saddlecloth. Cinch: Also called a girth, this is a wide strap of fabric that fits around a horse’s barrel to hold the saddle in place.

Also called a girth, this is a wide cloth strap that fits around a horse’s barrel to hold the saddle in place. Breastplate: A harness-like structure that also serves to hold the saddle in place, with straps that extend around the sternum and front legs. Also called chest strap or chest collar.

A harness-like structure also used to hold the saddle in place, with straps extending around the sternum and forelegs. Also called chest strap or chest collar. Stirrups: Foot straps for the rider, connected to the saddle by a strap.

Foot straps for the rider, connected to the saddle by a strap. Reins: Long straps, typically leather, metal, or nylon, attached to the bridle and used to steer a horse.

Long straps, typically made of leather, metal, or nylon, attached to a bridle and used to steer a horse. Bridle: A harness worn around the head, often attached to a lead rope, to either lead or tie the horse. Sometimes referred to as a halter.

A harness worn around the head, often attached to a lead rope, to either lead or tie the horse. Sometimes referred to as a halter. Bit: A piece of metal attached to a bridle that rests in the horse’s mouth (hence the term bit chewing).

A piece of metal attached to a bridle that rests in the horse’s mouth (hence the term bit chew). Hackamore: A type of halter or bridle that uses a noseband instead of a bit to guide the horse.

A type of halter or bridle that uses a noseband instead of a bit to guide the horse. Martingale: A strap connecting a horse’s noseband to its breastplate or neck strap.

Other harnesses used in riding include blinders, boots, nose bags, and chamfrons. Some gear is used on every ride, while others are only used occasionally.

Tack is made from many different materials, although leather is the most commonly used material. Synthetic tack can refer to many different types of synthetic materials used to make almost every type of horse tack out there.

Why is horse equipment called tack?

It might seem like a random term, but there’s a reason this type of gear is called a tack.

The term tack is short for tackle, which in turn is a reference used to explain riding or otherwise handling a domesticated horse. When you bridle a horse for riding or any other purpose, you are tackling it in the sense that you now have better control over its movements.

Tack or tacking up is not only used in horseback riding. You’ll also find this term in other activities that require you to set up specific equipment to move around, such as: B. when sailing.

What is a tack room?

A tack room is the place in a stable building where saddlery is stored. This is where you go whenever you want to outfit your horse for a ride, and this is where you put bridles for storage after you’re done. If you ever need any riding or handling equipment, always check the tack room first.

Most tack rooms are organized in a fairly similar way, with many items being hung on the walls rather than being stored in stacks. This makes it easy to keep everything organized – and to find what you need.

If you’re looking for extra tack that isn’t in the tack room, look for a storage area just outside your horse’s stall. Stable hands often use these areas to store smaller bridles or bridles that fit individual horses.

Equipment for use on domesticated horses

Harness is equipment or accessories attached to horses and other horses in the course of their use as domesticated animals. This equipment includes such items as saddles, stirrups, snaffles, halters, reins, bits and harnesses. Equipping a horse is often referred to as pinning. A room for storing such equipment, usually near or in a stable, is a tack room.

Saddles [ edit ]

A horse with a mounted police saddle.

Saddles are seats for the rider that are attached to the horse’s back with a strap (English-style riding) known in the western United States as a cinch, a wide strap that goes around the horse about four inches behind the front legs. Some western saddles also have a second girth, known as a flank or dorsal girth, that attaches to the back of the saddle and goes around the widest part of the horse’s belly.[1]

It is important that the saddle is comfortable for both the rider and the horse as an improperly fitting saddle can create pressure points on the horse’s back muscle (latissimus dorsi) and cause pain to the horse and result in the horse, rider or both hurt hurt.

There are many types of saddles, each designed specifically for the job at hand. Saddles are usually divided into two main categories: “English saddles” and “Western saddles” depending on the riding discipline in which they are used. Other types of saddles, such as racing saddles, Australian saddles, sidesaddles, and distance saddles, don’t necessarily fit well into either category.[1]

Saddle accessories [ edit ]

Breastplate or breastplate: Prevents saddles of all types from sliding sideways or backwards on the horse’s back

overbelt

croup

Breeching, also called “Britting”.

Saddlecloth or Numnah

Stirrup[edit]

Stirrups are supports for the rider’s feet, which hang down on either side of the saddle. They offer greater stability to the rider, but can raise safety concerns due to the possibility of a rider’s feet getting stuck in them. If a rider is thrown from a horse but has one foot in the stirrup, he could be dragged if the horse ran away. A number of safety precautions are taken to minimize this risk. First, most riders wear heeled riding boots with smooth soles. Also, some saddles, particularly English saddles, have safety stirrups that allow a stirrup leather to fall off the saddle if pulled backwards by a falling rider. Other precautions are taken with the stirrup design itself. Western saddles have wide stirrup steps that make it difficult to get your foot caught. A number of saddle styles include a tapedero that covers the front of the stirrup and prevents the foot from slipping all the way through the stirrup. The English stirrup (or “iron”) has several design variants, either shaped to allow the rider’s foot to slip out easily, or closed with a very heavy rubber band. The invention of the stirrup was of great historical importance in mounted combat, as it provided a secure foothold for the rider on horseback.

Headgear[ edit ]

A halter/halter made of nylon

Bridles, hackamores, halters or halters, and similar gear consist of various arrangements of straps around the horse’s head and are used for control and communication with the animal.

halter [ edit ]

A halter (US) or halter (UK) (occasionally headpiece) consists of a noseband and headpiece that buckle around the horse’s head and allow the horse to be led or tied. The leader rope is separate and can be short (from six to ten feet, two to three meters) for everyday leading and tying, or much longer (up to 25 feet (7.6 m), eight meters) for tasks such as leading pack horses or drive a horse out to pasture.

Some horses, particularly stallions, may have a chain attached to the lead rope and placed over the nose or under the jaw to increase the control a halter offers when leading. Horses are usually not ridden with a halter because it offers too little precision and control. Halters have no bit.[3]

In Australian and British English, a halter is a rope with a spliced ​​running loop around the nose and another over the poll, used primarily for unbroken horses or for cattle. The lead rope cannot be removed from the halter. A show halter is made from rolled leather and the leash is attached to form the chin piece of the noseband. These halters are not suitable for paddock or playpen use. An under-halter is a lightweight halter or halter consisting of just a small buckle that can be worn under a bridle to tie on a horse without loosening it.

bridle [ edit ]

Bridles usually have a bit on the bridle and are used for riding and driving horses.[4]

English bridle with noseband

English bridles have a cavesson-style noseband and are used in English riding. Their reins are buckled together and they have little embellishment or flashy fittings.[4]

Western bridles used in western riding usually do not have a noseband and are made of thin bridle leather. They may have long separate “split” reins or shorter closed reins, sometimes containing an attached romal. Western reins are often adorned with silver or other decorative features.[4]

Double bridles are a type of English bridle that uses two bits in the mouth at the same time, a snaffle and a double bridle. The two bits enable the rider to control the horse very precisely. As a rule, only very advanced horses and riders use double bridles. Double bridles are typically seen in the top levels of dressage, but are also seen in certain types of show hack and saddle seat competitions.

Hackamores and other bitless designs[edit]

A Bosal hackamore

A hackamore is headgear that uses a heavy noseband rather than a bit that is mostly used to train young horses or to protect an older horse’s mouth. Hackamores are more common in western riding.[5] Some related types of headgear that control a horse with a noseband rather than a bit are known as bitless bridles.

The word “hackamore” is derived from the Spanish word “jáquima”. Hackamores are seen in western riding disciplines as well as in endurance and English riding disciplines such as show jumping and the stadium phase of eventing. While the classic Bosal-style hackamore is typically used to start young horses, other designs, such as B. Various bitless bridles and the mechanical hackamore, commonly seen in adult horses with dental problems that make bit use painful, horses with certain training problems, etc. Horses with mouth or tongue injuries. Some riders also like to use them in winter to avoid putting a frozen metal bit in a horse’s mouth.[6]

Like bit snaffles, noseband-based designs can be soft or hard depending on the rider’s hands. It’s a myth that a bit is cruel and a hackamore is gentler. The horse’s face is very soft and sensitive with many nerve endings. Abuse of a hackamore can cause swelling of the nose, scratches the nose and jawbone, and extreme abuse can cause damage to the bones and cartilage of the horse’s head.

Other headgear[ edit ]

A lunging cavesson (UK: lunging) is a special type of halter or noseband used for lunging a horse. Lunging is the activity of leading a horse at a walk, trot and/or canter in a large circle around the handler at the end of a 25 to 30 foot (9.1 m) long rope. It is used for training and exercise.[7]

A neck rope, or cordeo, is a rope tied around a horse’s neck that is used to guide the horse when riding loose or when doing ground work.

Reins[edit]

Reins consist of leather straps or ropes attached to the outer ends of a bit, extending to the hands of the rider or driver. Reins are the means by which a rider or driver transmits directional commands to the horse’s head. The horse can be steered or stopped by pulling on the reins. The sides of the horse’s mouth are sensitive, so pulling on the reins pulls the bit, which then pulls the horse’s head from side to side, controlling the horse.[9]

Support rings may be present on some types of harnesses to carry the reins over the horse’s back. When pairs of horses are used to pull a carriage or carriage, it is common for the outside of each pair to be connected by reins and the inside of the bits by a short bridging strap or rope. The driver carries “four in hand” or “six in hand”, which is the number of reins connected to the pairs of horses.

A bridle may be attached to a halter to lead or lead the horse in circles for training purposes or to lead a pack horse, but a simple lead rope is more commonly used for these purposes. A lunge line is sometimes referred to as a “longe rein”, but it is actually a flat line about 30 feet (9.1 m) long, usually made of nylon or cotton webbing, about 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide, which is longer and wider than even a driving rein.[ 10]

bits [edit]

A Pelham bit with an articulated mouthpiece

A bit is a device that is inserted into a horse’s mouth and held on a horse’s head by means of a headpiece. There are many types, each useful for specific types of riding and training.[11]

The mouthpiece of the bit does not rest on the horse’s teeth, but rather rests on the gums or “rods” of the horse’s mouth in an interdental space behind the front incisors and in front of the back molars. It is important that the bit fits the horse’s needs and fits properly so that it works properly and is as comfortable for the horse as possible.[12]

a double bridle and snaffle bit shown together on a double bridle

The basic “classic” bits are:

While there are literally hundreds of types of bit mouthpieces, bit rings, and bit shafts, there are essentially only two broad categories: direct press bits, commonly referred to as snaffles; and lever bits, usually referred to as curbs.

Bits that work with direct pressure on the tongue and lips of the bit belong to the general category of snaffle bits. Snaffle bits commonly have a single articulated mouthpiece and act with a nutcracker effect on the bars, tongue and occasionally the palate. Regardless of the mouthpiece, however, any bit that only acts on direct pressure is a “snaffle” bit.[13]

Lever bits have legs that detach from the mouthpiece to create leverage that puts pressure on the horse’s poll, chin groove and mouth, and belong to the category of double bridle bits. Any bit with shanks that works by leverage is an “edge” bit, whether the mouthpiece is solid or jointed.

Some combination or hybrid bits combine direct pressure and leverage, such as the Kimblewick or Kimberwicke, which adds slight leverage to a two-rein design resembling a snaffle;[14] and the four-rein designs, such as the Pelham Bit with a mouthpiece and the curb that simultaneously places a curb and a snaffle in the horse’s mouth.[15]

In the wrong hands, even the lightest bit can harm a horse. Conversely, in the right hands, a very tight bit can convey subtle commands that don’t cause pain to the horse. Bit commands should be given with only the slightest movement of the hands, and much steering and stopping should be done with the legs and seat.

Dishes [ edit ]

A harness is a set of devices and straps used to attach a horse to a wagon, carriage, sleigh, or other load. There are two main styles of harnesses – chest harness and collar and hames style. These differ in how the weight of the load is attached. Most harnesses are made from leather, the traditional material for harnesses, although some designs are now made from nylon webbing or synthetic biothane.

A chest harness has a wide leather strap that runs horizontally across the horse’s chest and attaches to the tracks and then to the load. This is only used for lighter loads. A collar and hames harness has a collar around the horse’s neck with wooden or metal hames in the collar. The tracks stick to the cargo from the hames. This type of harness is required for heavy pulling work.

Both types also have a bridle and reins. On a harness used to support shafts, e.g. on a carriage drawn by a single horse, a saddle is also attached to the harness to help the horse support the shafts and breech to brake the vehicle’s forward motion, particularly when stopping or going downhill. Horses driving vehicles with a pole, such as B. Two-horse teams pulling a wagon, hay mower, or dray have pole straps attached to the lower part of the horse’s collar.

Breastplates and martingales [ edit ]

An English style breastplate with elastic and a running martingale attachment

Horse with breastplate

Breastplates, breast collars or chest straps attach to the front of the saddle, cross the horse’s chest and usually have a strap that runs between the horse’s front legs and attaches to the girth. They prevent the saddle from slipping backwards or sideways. They are usually seen in demanding, fast-paced sports. They are crucial pieces of safety equipment for English equestrian activities that require jumping such as eventing, show jumping, polo and fox hunting. They are also seen at western riding events, particularly rodeo, reining, and cutting, where it is especially important to keep the saddle from slipping. They may also be worn in other equestrian competitions for decorative purposes.[16]

A martingale is a device that prevents a horse from lifting its head too high. As a control measure, different styles can be used to prevent the horse from dodging rider commands by raising his head out of position. or as a safety measure to keep the horse from tossing its head high or hard enough to smack its rider in the face.

They are permitted in many types of competitions, particularly those where speed or jumping may be required, but are not permitted in most “flat” classes at horse shows, although an exception is made in some classes restricted to young or ” green” are restricted. Horses that may not be fully trained yet.

Martingales are usually attached to the horse in two ways. They are either attached to the center breast ring of a breastplate or, if no breastplate is worn, attached with two straps, one going around the horse’s neck and the other being attached to the girth, the martingale itself starting at the point in the middle of the chest where the neck and waist straps cross.

Martingale types include:

German Martingale or Market Harborough: This design consists of a split fork coming out of the chest, passing through the rings of the bit and attaching to the reins of the bridle between the bit and the rider’s hand. It behaves similarly to a running martingale but with greater leverage. It is not usually considered legal and is primarily used as a training aid.

Irish Martingale: Unlike the previous designs, this very simple “martingale” does not control the height of the horse’s head, it merely prevents the reins from going over the horse’s head in the event of a fall. It consists of a piece of leather with a ring at each end through which each rein passes.[18]

a horse carrying a running martingale

Running Martingale: This design adds leverage to a bit and features a split fork that starts at the chest and has a ring on each side of the fork for the reins to pass through, making it easier for the rider to keep the horse under control, but also the freedom of movement of the horse when needed. Properly adjusted, the Running Martingale only controls how high the horse carries its head when the rider tightens the reins. The default setting of a running martingale is to adjust the rings to a height where they will not engage and give the reins leverage when the horse is carrying its head at the correct height. Sometimes a running martingale can be adjusted to a greater or lesser length depending on the needs of the horse and rider. [17]

Starting at the chest with a ring on each side of the fork through which the reins pass, making it easier for the rider to keep the horse under control but also allowing the horse freedom of movement when needed. Properly adjusted, the Running Martingale only controls how high the horse carries its head when the rider tightens the reins. The default setting of a running martingale is to adjust the rings to a height where they will not engage and give the reins leverage when the horse is carrying its head at the correct height. Sometimes a running martingale can be adjusted to a greater or lesser length depending on the needs of the horse and rider. Standing Martingale: A design with a strap running from the girth or chest and attaching to the noseband of the bridle. The standing martingale acts on the horse’s nose and creates an absolute limit on how high a horse can raise its head. The term used in western riding for this piece of equipment is the tether. The default setting of a standing martingale allows enough slack to bring the strap to the horse’s throat lash when the animal has its head in a relaxed, natural position. However, it is sometimes set shorter. Unlike the running martingale, it restricts the horse’s headroom no matter how long or short the reins may be. While standing martingales are common in show hunter and riding classes, the restrictions placed on the horse’s movement are dangerous in cross country or show jumping. Therefore, in these disciplines, a running martingale is required for safety reasons, if a martingale is used at all.[17]

There are other exercise machines that loosely fall into the martingale category as they use straps attached to the reins or bit that restrict movement of the horse’s head or give the rider’s hands leverage to control the horse’s head. Common devices of this type are the overcheck, the chambon, de gogue, pasture reins, draw reins and the “bitting harness” or “bitting rig”. However, most of these devices are used for training purposes and are not legal in any competition. In some disciplines, the use of lever devices, including in training, is controversial.

Associated equipment[ edit ]

See also[edit]

Anatomy and physiology of the equine joints

Joints allow the limbs to bend and the back to bend. Synovial joints are the joints of primary interest as they allow for movement and are the type of joints between the vertebrae.

The synovial joint consists of two bone ends covered by articular cartilage. Articular cartilage is smooth and resilient, allowing for friction-free movement of the joint. Joint stability is maintained by a fibrous capsule that is attached to both bone and collateral ligaments. Collateral ligaments are important to maintain stability in joints such as the fetlock, carpal, elbow, ankle, and stifle. In addition, there are other ligaments that also support the integrity of the joints.

The joint capsule consists of the fibrous capsule and an inner lining layer called the synovial membrane. The synovial membrane secretes synovial fluid, which provides lubrication within the joint. There are several disease processes that affect the nature of synovial fluid due to inflammation and disease in the synovial membrane. Inflammation in the joint causes excess fluid production resulting from synovitis (inflammation of the synovial membrane). The fluid produced by an inflamed synovial membrane is generally lower in viscosity. This is a sign of impaired production of hyaluronic acid, the most important ingredient for lubricating synovial fluid.

The resilience of the cartilage tissue is important for normal movement and shock absorption. Hyaluronic acid lubricates the surface of the synovial membrane and along with another protein, lubricin, it also lubricates articular cartilage.

limbs of the horse

The horse’s limbs are structures made up of many bones, joints, muscles, tendons and ligaments that support the weight of the horse’s body. The limbs play an important role in the horse’s movement, with the legs taking on the functions of absorbing shock, carrying weight and providing thrust. In general, most of the weight is carried by the front legs, while the rear legs provide propulsion. The hooves are also important structures that provide support, traction, and shock absorption.

Good conformation in the limbs results in improved movement and a reduced likelihood of injury.

Each horse’s front leg runs from the shoulder blade (shoulder blade) to the scaphoid (bone in the hoof). The bones and joints in between include:

humerus (arm)

Radius (Forearm)

ell

elbow joint

Carpus (knee) bone and joint

Greater metacarpal (cannon)

Smaller metacarpal (splint)

fetlock

fetlock

coffin joint

Each hind leg of the horse runs from the pelvis to the scaphoid. The bones and the joints between them include:

femur (thigh)

patella

knee joint

shin

primer

Tarsal Bone and Joint

Large metacarpal

Small metacarpal

fetlock

fetlock

coffin joint

When the horse moves, the coffin joint takes the most stress of any joint in the body and can be significantly affected by trimming and shoeing techniques. Although the pastern joint has a small range of motion, it also affects the movement of the horse and can change the way different shoeing techniques affect tendons and ligaments in the legs.

joints in the horse

Elbow Joint – The elbow joint is formed between the distal (farthest) end of the humerus and the proximal (closest) ends of the radius and ulna (which are fused together in the horse). Flexion (bending) and extension are possible in the horse between the humerus and the radius/ulna. The elbow is a typical synovial joint.

Knee joint – The knee joint corresponds to the human knee and is the horse’s largest and most complex joint. The bones that make up the knee joint are the femur (thigh), tibia (shinbone), and patella (kneecap). The knee joint elevates the leg up and forward, making it crucial for movement and athletic activity. The knee joint has two joints, the femoropatellar joint (joins the kneecap) and the femororbital joint (joins the bones). Knee injuries can go undetected because the knee is difficult to assess. In addition to all common joint ailments, activities involving sharp turns can cause traumatic injuries to the bones and ligaments, while activities such as jumping can damage the meniscal ligaments. Knee ligament and meniscus damage are currently the most underdiagnosed.

Hip joint – The horse has a limited range of hip movement compared to the dog. This is mainly limited to flexion and extension and is the result of the conformation of the femoral head, the intra-articular ligaments and a large muscle mass around the joint. Hip joint disorders are relatively rare causes of lameness in horses. Most cases are of traumatic origin, secondary to falls, although septic disorders and developmental disorders occur.

Fetlock – The fetlock occurs between the cannon bone, proximal phalanx and sesamoid bones in the front legs. It allows flexion and extension movements. The pastern joint is arguably the joint that characterizes a horse, with its unique anatomy and physiology allowing for high speed, medium distance activities. The fetlock joints are the joint, shock absorber, energy store and stabilizer of the front limbs. It is a complex joint where bone and soft tissue are interwoven. Developmental abnormalities and traumatic injuries both throw debris into the joint, which is the leading cause of joint disease. Degenerative arthritis is usually a secondary development.

Carpal Joint – A horse’s wrist (carpal) joint is commonly referred to as the “knee,” which is found only on the front legs. The tarsus is the corresponding joint on the hind leg, commonly referred to as the “hock joint.” The horse’s knee is one of the most complex regions in the limb as there are several small bones and ligaments that all together form the three main joints; the radiocarpal, intercarpal, and carpometacarpal joints. There are 9 bones that make up these knee joints, two rows of small carpal bones connecting the radius at the top of the knee and the cannon and splints at the bottom. These bones are held together by a complex series of ligaments that help maintain stability but also act as shock absorbers. Conformational errors are associated with an increased risk of injury and lameness. Osteoarthritis of the knee is by far the most common condition affecting this region in horses and is often secondary to other problems such as chip fractures or poor conformation.

Ankle (Hock) – The ankle is the joint between the tarsal bones and the shin bone. It resembles a human’s ankle. Although the tarsus refers specifically to the bones and joints of the hock, most refer to the hock to include the bones, joints, and soft tissues of the area. The ankle is particularly important as it is subjected to a lot of stress, especially when jumping and stopping. There are 4 joints within the hock, 3 of which allow almost no motion and are high impact, low motion joints. As the hock is heavily used in all performance disciplines, correct conformation is essential if the horse is to live a healthy and productive life.

Fetlock – The fetlock is the joint between the long fetlock bone (proximal alphalanx) and the short fetlock bone (middle phalanx). This corresponds to the two largest bones in the human finger. This joint has limited movement, but helps disperse the concussive forces of the horse’s stride, and also has some influence on flexion or extension of the entire leg. The ankle is crucial for shock absorption, responsible for the concussion forces of a step and effectively helps to distribute the forces between the bones of the leg and the tendons and ligaments.

Coffin Joint – The coffin joint consists of 3 bones, the middle phalanx (pastern), the distal phalanx (coffin bone), and the distal sesamoid (scaphoid). It allows easy bending and stretching movements. The coffin bone is the wedge-shaped bone in the hoof that supports the horse’s weight. Since 23-27% of the movement from the top of the cannon leg to the ground occurs at the distal phalangeal joint, loss of significant motion at the distal phalanx impacts the horse’s gait. Balanced shoeing and symmetry maintain the shape of the coffin joint and/or reduce the predisposition to arthritis or inflammation of the coffin joint.

Forehead

Photostock-Israel/Science Photo Library/Getty Images

The forehead is the area between and just above the eyes. The forehead can be concave, flat or convex. Arabians often have a concave or domed face. Some warmbloods have convex or almost “Roman” noses.

The depression above the eyes is the suborbital depression. On most well-groomed horses, this is a shallow depression. Older horses or horses and ponies that have experienced “tough times” will have very deep suborbital depression. The coat of hair on the forehead often has distinctive markings such as flames, stars or stripes.

Ever heard of the phrase, a horse has five hearts?

By Carole Herder

In simple terms, the heart pumps blood throughout the body through arteries. From the arteries, blood moves away from the heart into the capillaries and then into the venules and then into the veins. Unlike arteries, veins are not elastic and require muscle to move blood back to the heart.

Evolution has dictated that the horse has no muscle structure on its lower leg. So how does blood get back from the hoof to the heart?

Horses, like other mammals, have only one heart. However, the frog in each hoof acts like a pump to push blood up the leg with every step a horse takes. The frog also acts as a shock absorber. This is of course the case when the hooves are in a natural barefoot state. When the hoof is placed on the ground, it expands and fills with blood. When ingested, it contracts and blood is sent up the hoof to the heart. About a liter of blood is pumped through the body every twenty steps. Therefore, each hoof is a “heart,” giving a horse five hearts.

Horseshoes lock the hoof in, preventing expansion and thereby reducing blood flow, which in turn puts a strain on the horse’s heart. That’s a good reason to go barefoot! Hoof boots allow for this expansion and are only used when necessary in rough terrain or when going barefoot, making them the perfect replacement for metal boots.

Here are some fun facts about horse hearts:

• A horse’s heart is not much different from a human’s heart, only bigger. Both have 4 chambers and pump warm blood.

• A horse’s heart is in the same place as a human heart: between the lungs and ribs and above the diaphragm.

• A horse’s heart weighs an average of seven to nine pounds. Secretariat had the largest heart ever recorded at 12 pounds.

• A horse’s heart rate at rest should be between 40 and 60 bpm.

• A horse can have a heart attack.

• Which animal actually has five hearts? An earthworm!

Does your horse let you mount and dismount from both sides? Mounting from the left is just tradition. Soldiers mounted on the left sides of their horses so their swords, anchored across their left legs, would not hurt their horses’ backs.

But you ride the trail and don’t go into battle. Make sure your horse is comfortable as you mount and dismount on both sides. You never know when you’ll hit a rocky cliff, mud hole, or other obstacle. Changing sides also allows your horse to use the muscles on the right and left side of his spine equally, which helps his back.

To get your horse used to the right (off) side mount: (1) Lead him from the right side, asking him to stop and turn in each direction; (2) stop him and practice stepping on his right side, right on his heart circumference; (3) If your horse seems calm this far, saddle him and place the toe of your left boot in the right stirrup; (4) If your horse seems concerned, repeat the previous steps until he gets used to the experience; (5) When your horse is standing still, step into the stirrup, but be prepared to step out with your foot and jump off if necessary; (6) if your horse remains relaxed, swing your left leg over the saddle and sit gently; (7) Repeat your mounting and dismounting to the side until you and your horse feel comfortable.

Hair growing from a horse’s neck

Horse with a long mane. The mane runs from the poll to the withers.

In horses, the mane is the hair that grows from the top of a horse’s or other equine’s neck, reaching from the poll to the withers, and encompassing the forelock or forehead. It is thicker and coarser than the rest of the horse’s coat and grows naturally to roughly cover the neck. Heredity plays a role, giving some horses a longer, thicker mane and others a shorter, thinner one.

Some horses, such as those used in circuses or in equestrian shows like Cavalia, have manes that are allowed to grow to the knees. Others intentionally shaved their manes completely for style or practical purposes. However, if left uncared for, the mane usually does not grow longer than the width of the horse’s neck, since natural wear and tear limits its possible length.

The mane is believed to keep the neck warm and may help water run off the neck if the animal cannot find shelter from the rain. It also provides some fly protection for the front of the horse, although the tail is usually the first line of defense against flies.

Ponies typically have the thickest manes, with horse breeds showing tremendous variation in thickness and length. Other equidae, such as the donkey, often have very sparse, thin manes.

care [edit]

A horse with a “natural” mane. Although some thick manes have a natural wave, a mane grown this long is kept in long pigtails when not shown to the horse to keep it from breaking off.

All domesticated horses benefit from regular detangling of their manes and tails to remove dirt, tangles and debris. Horses with short manes usually have their manes combed, while horses with longer manes are usually groomed with a real hair brush or a stiff dandy brush. On horses with exceptionally long manes, the manes may be handpicked to remove tangles.

For a horse show, the horse is generally bathed, and that includes the mane. However, in addition to a shampoo bath, many grooms of long-maned horses also use a conditioner or cream rinse on the mane to improve shine and manageability, although horses with braided manes may have the mane left alone or have gels that increase stiffness and Bodies were added instead.

To lengthen and lay flat a short mane, or to grow a naturally full mane beyond the length it could normally attain in nature, the mane can be placed in six or seven thick, moderately loose braids, to prevent breaking. Many horse show exhibitors with long manes also like the wavy look of a mane that has been braided until just before a show, and can loosely braid a naturally long mane the night before a show for a fuller, wavy look.

Beyond basic grooming, the mane is styled in different ways depending on the breed of horse, world region and riding discipline of the rider.

The basic ways of styling the mane include:

Of course, including manes that are conditioned to grow extremely long

Pulled or thinned, pulling out small tufts of hair along the underside of the neck, until the mane is 76 to 127 mm (3 to 5 in) long and thin enough to lie flat against the neck.

Braided (USA) or plaited (UK), mainly seen in English riding.

Banded, divided into many small sections each having a small elastic band around it, as seen in some breeds used for western riding.

“Roached” or “hogged”: shaved to the neck.

Regardless of style, many manes that are uncombed have a bit of mane at the poll, the area just behind the ears, that is shaved to allow the crown piece of the bridle to sit more neatly on the head. This area is referred to as the “bridle path”. It can vary in length from an inch to over a foot. The length of the riding trail depends on the discipline or breed of the horse and is something to consider when grooming a horse for competition.

discipline [edit]

Hunter braids.

A banded mane. Note that the mane has also been pulled and thinned before tying

breed [edit]

button braids

Certain breeds are often expected to have a specific styling for their manes. Common styles for the United States are as follows:

Drag [edit]

A shortened or “pulled” mane.

The mane is often pulled to shorten and thin it. It gives a much neater look than simply trimming with scissors, which doesn’t thin the mane enough to braid and creates an unnatural line. Pulling also makes the mane more manageable, as a pulled mane is less likely to get tangled than a natural one.

Most horses don’t mind mane pulling and willingly stand by the process. To make the horse more comfortable, a groom should pull the mane up out of the crest and not sideways or down. Applying orajel or clove oil to the roots of the mane can help desensitize the area during the pulling process. It is also recommended to do the pulling right after the workout if you think the mane will come out easier because the pores are open. Using a mane pulling device such as the ManePuller can also be considered as this tends to be quicker and therefore less tiring for the horse (and groom).

In some cases, a horse is very sensitive and may constantly toss its head or try to bite when the groom tries to pull the mane. In this case only a few hairs should be removed at a time, the pulling process extending over several days, and the groom should try to keep up with the process so that the horse does not have to endure a long session immediately before the competition.

Competitors in a hurry sometimes use thinning shears to trim the mane and make it appear as if it has been pulled. However, the effects only last a couple of weeks at most before the cut hairs grow back and stick straight up in the air. Therefore, this method is not recommended. Plucked manes also grow out but take longer, and when the hair starts to grow out it is less stiff and tends to blend into the existing mane more easily.

Roaching (US) or Hogging (UK) [ edit ]

Roached mane and forelock

Roaching or hogging is when the mane and sometimes the forelock are completely shaved. This is usually done when a horse’s mane is quite ragged, or for certain disciplines such as polo, polocrosse and calf rope to keep the mane out of the way. Cobs can be shown with a roach mane, and it is also common to have the mane in certain breeds. In Spain, breeders often breed the mane of mares and foals. The same applies to the Swiss Freiberger horses. The American Saddlebred 3-Gaited horse is often shown with a ruffled mane, while the 5-Gaited Saddlebred is shown with a full mane.

Once a mane is braided, it can take 6-8 months for it to stop standing up straight in the air and on the neck, and a year or more to return to its natural length. For this reason, combed manes usually need to be kept that way, although as a last resort for a partially torn, badly tangled, or otherwise unusable mane, it is effective to comb a damaged mane and evenly allow it to grow back into a smooth state to be brought.

Lichen (US) or Lichen (UK) [ edit ]

Horse with French braided mane, sometimes called “Andalusian” braid

“Continental” or “macrame” weave

Braiding is used today to emphasize the neck and accentuate the topline when the horse is moving or jumping. Braiding can be used to hide neck conformation flaws (for example, a relatively short neck can be braided with a greater number of smaller braids, making it appear longer). Braiding can be used to train the mane to lie on one side of the neck when half falls on one side and half falls on the other.

Traditionally, the mane is braided on the right side of the neck. This is still the standard for show hunters in the United States and eventers, although dressage horses are commonly braided on both sides. It was also traditional in the US for male horses to have an odd number of braids and mares an even number.[2] However, this rule is rarely, if ever, followed by modern braiders.

Types of braids[edit]

An “Andalusian” or French braided mane on an Andalusian horse

The most common braids in both the United States and the United Kingdom are button braids, which are rounded and usually larger (therefore fewer in number) than hunter or “flat” braids. In Britain, show horses of all types are braided with between 9 and 15 pigtails, similar to the American “button braid”. An odd number of braids is traditional, although judges have become more relaxed about this in recent years. The number of braids can be increased or decreased depending on whether the rider wants the horse’s neck to look longer or shorter.

, which are round and usually larger (less in number) than hunter or “flat” braids. In Great Britain, show horses of all kinds are braided with between 9 and , similar to the American button braid. An odd number of braids is traditional, although judges have become more relaxed about this in recent years. The number of braids can be increased or decreased depending on whether the rider wants the horse’s neck to look longer or shorter. Hunter braids, or flat braids, are smaller, numbering as many as 20–30 on a neck, and are the only braids considered traditional in US hunting seat competition. They are not usually seen in other disciplines, although they are approved for dressage.

or flat braids are smaller, with as many as 20–30 on a neck, and they are the only braids considered traditional in US hunting seat competition. They are not usually seen in other disciplines, although they are approved for dressage. Knob braids are a variation of hunter braids in which part of the braid is pushed up to create a “button” at the top. They are usually seen in dressage competitions, but are also popular in other flat classes – particularly breed shows – as well as show jumpers.

are a variation of Hunter braids where part of the braid is pushed up to create a “button” at the top. They are usually seen in dressage competitions, but are also popular in other flat classes – particularly breed shows – as well as show jumpers. The French braid, also known as the “Andalusian” braid, is braided along the nape of the neck. It is used on horses with long manes and is typically used either in dressage competitions of a baroque horse breed or in hunter and dressage classes for horses that otherwise must be shown with a long, full mane.

, also called “Andalusian” braid, is braided along the crest of the neck. It is used on horses with long manes and is typically used either in dressage competitions of a baroque horse breed or in hunter and dressage classes for horses that otherwise must be shown with a long, full mane. The Continental braid, also known as the “macrame braid”, is also suitable for horses with long manes and forms a “net” in the mane. It is not a “braid” per se, as it is usually made up of simple knots or even simply made with elastics or twine, but is regularly considered stylish in some dressage and flat classes, particularly at breed shows for horses that are naturally long have manes.

, also called “macrame braid”, is also useful for horses with long manes, creating a “net” in the mane. It is not a “braid” per se, as it is usually made up of simple knots or even simply made with elastics or twine, but is regularly considered stylish in some dressage and flat classes, particularly at breed shows for horses that are naturally long have manes. The scalloped mane is a less common form of braiding in which each braid is pulled under the two pulled down (towards the withers), forming a series of loops. This is most commonly seen in the hunt seat, dressage or show jumping, although it is not as popular as the other forms of the braid. It’s useful for manes that look bulky in traditional braiding styles because they’re a little too thick or a little too long.

See also[edit]

Every horse lover knows how intuitive and communicative our horse friends really are. Responding to changing situations and our corresponding body language, they regularly perform miracles. One only had to watch Charlotte Dujardin and Valegro perform in London in 2012 to be struck by their intelligence and deep connection.

As humans, we often rely on verbal communication to get what we want, so voice commands can be very important when training a horse. But we need them not only for pleasure, but also for our safety.

Just as you wouldn’t go hacking without first getting rider insurance, neither would you go out without being able to communicate with them!

That’s why we want to remind you of the 10 most important voice commands that every rider should know.

General voice commands

Whoa – stop now. The most important and basic horse training voice command that every horse should know. Go – Go ahead now. Trot (Glack-Glack) – Walk slightly faster than the walk. Some owners use the word while others click their tongues. Gallop (Kiss-Kiss) – Run at an easy and comfortable speed. A kissing sound or the word gallop. Back – Backwards until I say otherwise. This concept is often a bit more difficult for a horse to grasp at first. Simple – Slow down. Stand/Stay – Stand where you are and do not move. Over – Please get out of my way.

Get started with voice commands

Voice commands are an essential part of any horse’s training. Even if your horse has already been trained, it’s good to go through the basic commands to see how they respond and if they need further instruction.

After all, in many equine disciplines, you are expected to ride your horse without using voice commands at all. But as a basic training method they are invaluable and have the advantage of being clear to the horse and easily transferrable to other trainers or riders.

If you want your horse to respond to voice commands, remember to teach him on the ground first. For example when lunging a young horse or for other ground training. Once they understand the voice commands, slowly add them to your driving style.

It’s much easier for both of you if you teach the commands gradually rather than all at once. That way you can keep track of how you’re both doing. And you won’t feel overwhelmed!

It is best to always start at the very beginning with the commands “whoa” and “walk”. A first session could go like this:

Say “go”.

Signal the horse by gently tugging on the jump rope and walking forward yourself.

If the horse runs, reward it with a treat or a pet.

Lead the horse around half of an arena.

Say “wow”.

Signal the horse by gently pulling back on the lead rope and stop walking.

If the horse stops, reward it. Don’t expect the horse to stop too long before moving on again.

Repeat the walking and stopping sequence about 10 times. Try to give the horse the impression that every move is your idea and not theirs.

As the sessions develop, wait for the horse to respond to the command without having to use the lead rope. Once the horse knows wow and walk, continue with trot and back in the same way.

Remember, if you’re teaching trot, you’ll probably have to jog instead of walking away after giving the command. This way the horse knows to move faster than walking. Spend several sessions transitioning between the walk and the trot until you notice the difference.

The idea of ​​the “back” can be more difficult for horses to master and may need another cue than the leash. Some horses will respond to a backward pull on the lead rope, while others will need a gentle tap in the chest to respond appropriately. Whatever their preference, make sure to be consistent on the training ground.

Once a horse understands spoken commands on the ground, translate them to commands while riding. Always make sure you have adequate rider insurance before setting off.

Practical tips for using voice commands

Whatever commands you use, make them short.

Speak clearly. Say the word consistently and do not add other words to the command, such as B. their name. That only clouds the meaning.

If necessary, reinforce voice commands with other aids until you get the answer you are looking for.

Be consistent in your voice commands. Don’t say “wow” if you just want them to slow down.

Watch your timing. Give your command at the right time – not five seconds before!

Watch out for unintentional voice commands. It’s easy to create commands you didn’t intend. If you’re not careful, “good boy” could easily become the command for “have a treat”!

Pay attention to tone and pitch. Changing your pitch and tone from low to high can help you gain speed, and changing your pitch and tone from high to low can encourage your horse to stabilize. Keep that in mind when it comes to speed. If you have an excited, upbeat voice, it may not want to slow down so easily.

Equestrian Insurance by Equesure

Along with rider insurance, getting your horse to respond to your commands immediately makes sense to protect yourself and your companion from harm.

Here at Equesure, our team has over 60 years of experience in the specialist equine insurance market. We can offer you a bespoke insurance policy with options tailored to the unique needs of you and your horse.

Whether planning an invigorating trail ride after a period out of the saddle or training for your next big event, Equesure can arrange insurance for any rider.

We offer accident insurance up to £10,000 for young people and £20,000 for adults. Policies from our trusted group of insurers can also cover emergency vet charges up to a value of £1,500 and saddlery and tack covers up to £2,500.

Request an offer today.

The policy benefits and features offered may vary depending on the insurance system or coverage selected and are subject to actuarial criteria. The information contained in this article is correct at the time of publication but is subject to change.

Horses can be taught to respond to verbal commands. They are able to pick up certain words and tones in the voice. It’s a great way to help your horse understand what you want from him. Short words can be used on the ground, e.g. B. when leading or lunging, and even in the saddle. Follow these tips to ensure you have productive training sessions.

types of words

Simple one word commands are the best! Here are some you can try:

stroll

trot

gallop

Wow

The back

Easy

was standing

Good boy/good girl

There is also a range of sounds, such as clucking and kissing.

How to use verbal commands

Speak clearly when instructing your horse. The tone of your voice is important. When asking for speed, your voice should be higher. Words like whoa and walk should still be firm but said in a lower tone. As your horse learns the cues, you need to incorporate other signals. A whip to encourage speed, a tug on the lead rope to slow down, or a slap on the neck for a good boy, all will help your horse understand more easily.

You also have to be consistent. Riders often ask their trotting horses to hoo-hu when all they really want is for him to go. Make sure you use the correct word.

Don’t babble or get angry at your horse. Shy handlers may say eassssyyyy, whooaaaa in a low or soft voice. It is better to use short words confidently. On the other hand, don’t yell at your horse. They don’t respond to shouting and frustration.

Many disciplines encourage subtle training without the use of verbal commands. However, there are many instances where voice cues can be extremely useful. Find a system that works best for your horse by trying a few different methods.