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Table of Contents
Why is my boat lift not working?
Several factors can contribute to boat lift motor problems, including faulty wiring in the motor, burnt fuses, an incorrect amount of voltage to the motor, and a defective up-button, among others. A marine technician can easily repair motor problems, but a completely damaged motor will require replacing.
What causes a boat lift motor to hum?
If your motor is making a humming noise, this generally means that either your capacitor is out of order or the centrifugal switch is not doing its job. Single-phase electric motors use start capacitors to energize a second phase winding.
How long do boat lift Motors last?
Make sure the top-side drain holes are closed, and the bottom-side drain holes are open to keep out debris and allow proper drainage. High-quality motors typically last 7-10 years under a cover.
How To Troubleshoot Boatlift Motors
season of care
Regardless of where you live, the elements can wreak havoc on the various components of your elevator system, and taking steps to prevent damage and prolong its life is easier than you might think. Regardless of where you live and how often you take your boat out on the water, these four steps can help you combat inclement weather and other elements that wear out your boat lift motor. As you look after your boat lift motor, be sure to regularly inspect other aspects of your boat, the boat lift, and the boat lift cables.
Check for signs of rust
Pay close attention to the capacitor cover and examine the motors for signs of rust. Check to see if the motor is retaining water when the motors are not under a cover. Make sure the top drain holes are closed and the bottom drain holes are open to keep debris out and allow proper drainage. High quality motors typically last 7-10 years under one cover.
Lubricate the engine
To keep your engine running at its best, lubricate the engine’s drive tube and bearings every four to six months. While doing so, visually inspect the bearings and motor for signs of damage or wear.
Cover your boat lift motor
Corrosion is one of the fastest ways for a boat lift motor to deteriorate. If you want to get the most out of your boat lift motor, covering the motor is a first step.
Check the drive belt
The drive belt between the engine and gear plate can become loose over time through normal wear and tear. It can be re-tightened by loosening the motor bolt, sliding the motor in the opposite direction of the gear plate pulley – tensioning the belt – and then retightening the motor bolts.
Stock up on boat lift replacement parts
We understand that every now and then a boat lift part needs to be replaced. Sometimes it can be difficult to determine if the part needs repairing or if it’s time to buy a replacement. That’s why our experts at Boat Lift Repair Parts work hard to design reliable boat lift motors and lifting systems with durability and longevity in mind. Let us help you decide which lifting component is best for your boating needs. If you would like additional information on any of our products or would like to request a quote on any of our kits, contact us today!
How does a hydro hoist work?
All the lifts HydroHoist makes work on the same concept: flood the tanks to sink the hoist below the boat, drive off; on return, drive over the submerged lift, hit the button to pump air into the tanks,evacuating the water and raise the lift, boat and all – simple and effective.
How To Troubleshoot Boatlift Motors
Editorial report by Capt. Nick Martinez
HydroHoist elevators.
HydroHoist lifts are individually configured for each boat and have a capacity of up to 32,000 lbs. (14,515 kg).
mission
HydroHoist designs boat lifts, floats and dock accessories that protect boats, watercraft and docks from damage. HydroHoist lifts adapt to multiple boat types and a range of sizes, lifting and launching them with ease. The docking platforms are easy to use and durable.
Benefits of boat lifts
Each HydroHoist lift is custom fitted to the boat. This is the UltraLift style, HydroHoist’s most popular model.
Boat owners, particularly those in warm southern waters, are increasingly looking for solutions to prevent bottom pollution. They strive to keep their boats looking and performing like new. One of the best solutions is to simply take the boat out of the water after use. This not only eliminates bottom fouling and corrosion, but also prevents the boat from being tossed about by wake and wind.
Pontoon boats are particularly fond of HydroHoist lifts – boat barns are much better than they used to be.
A boat that hits a dock or is constantly splashing in the water will suffer a lot of wear and tear. Even a small problem can cause a lot of damage if not caught in time. For example, a failed bilge pump or a dead battery is a common problem that can lead to sinking, not least due to rainwater.
Storing a boat in the water is a major cause of damage below the waterline and can contribute to many other problems the boat encounters. Rough weather conditions, where water levels change dramatically or debris is present, can severely stress the boat, shortening its lifespan. In addition, wet storage can lead to hull blisters and electrolysis damage to propellers and shafts.
Barnacles can cause great damage to the hull and outdrives, in addition to increasing drag and reducing fuel consumption.
Algae is a very big problem when storing a boat wet. It begins to build up on the outside of the boat, resulting in layers of damp foam and debris that take time and effort to remove. Corrosion can also occur and cause problems. By keeping the boat afloat, algae, grass, barnacles and other marine vegetation will not grow and corrosion can be avoided. This means nobody has to spend money on bottom paint or a diver to clean the bottom regularly – especially in tropical waters where fouling is more common.
HydroHoist lifts have high impact polyethylene tanks that are designed to last with low maintenance. The air in the tanks that provide buoyancy is a modest 3psi.
A boat lift can keep the boat clean and ready to launch in minutes. There’s no complicated plumbing to untie, no leaks to look for or other damage to look for, and no icky algae to clean up. Also, boat lifts are safer because they make a boat more stable when boarding, especially when changing water levels make boarding and disembarking difficult. Finally, with a simple push of a button, any boat can be up and running in no time, meaning you can spend more time on the open water and enjoying the day with friends and family.
elevator types
Lifts are easily operated from a dock box with push button switches for up/raise and down/start.
HydroHoist manufactures three different types of lifts: HarborHoist, UltraLift and E-Series. These cover most types of boats and marinas, from open ocean to ports, lakes and rivers. The HarborHoist is used in tidal conditions, the UltraLift and Economy E-Series are typically used with U-shaped floats in freshwater. Each lift type is configured individually for each boat, even for some sailboats. HydroHoist has already configured lifts for many boat types, so there are no special fees or engineering fees.
An Electrolux blower motor is used to pressurize the tanks and force water out.
All of the elevators HydroHoist makes work on the same concept: flood tanks to lower the elevator under the boat, drive off; On the return, ride over the submerged elevator, press the button to pump air into the tanks, evacuate the water and raise the elevator, boat and all – simply and effectively.
Additionally, HydroHoist produces three different PWC HydroPort docking platforms – Extreme, Pro and Epic – to store watercraft out of the water without using a trailer. We describe these at the end of this article.
UltraLift, HydroHoist’s most popular lift, comes in a variety of sizes and fits only floating U-shaped docks.
The UltraLift series fits most boats 4,400 lbs and up. (1,996 kg) to 32,000 lbs. (14,515 kg) and is available with shallow water and front mount options. HydroHoist’s most popular lift model uses polyethylene tanks, which are highly resistant to impact or damage from low water. UltraLift features an all-steel construction above the waterline and a robust hull support system.
HarborHoist has a high-quality aluminum flat lifting frame. It’s the most versatile boat lift in the HydroHoist family, perfect for fresh or salt water. Limit switches are used to lower or raise the lift to maximum operating limits.
The HarborHoist boat lift is built to withstand the effects of brackish and salt water while maintaining quality performance. The HarborHoist elevators are the only model used in tidal conditions. They feature robust marine grade polyethylene tanks but have aluminum frames for longer product life. They can be moored to the dock with ropes or a traditional mooring system. HarborHoist is compatible with a variety of docks and slips, and the hull supports can be configured for almost any type of boat, including wake, pontoon, and tritoon boats.
HarborHoist elevators make it easy to load and unload passengers, and the controls are integrated into the elevator. They work with both fixed and floating docks and are compatible with U-shaped slips, double-width slips, L-shaped docks and square docks.
The E-Series – the E stands for economy model – uses a single polytank. With the push of a button, you can launch or dry dock your boat in just three minutes.
The E-Series lift is built for durability and functionality. The E-Series offers boating enthusiasts protection, safety and comfort with polyethylene tanks, galvanized steel construction and lockable deck mounted control boxes at a lower price point than the UltraLifts.
HydroPort PWC series
Hydroport Epic can be mounted on the side or front of the float.
HydroPort dry docks keep the watercraft out of the water and sheltered from stormy weather. The PWC remains free of marine growth and corrosion in the priming pump and hull bottom. HydroPorts save the PWC owner the time and hassle of trailering the boat after each use and the time and hassle of restarting it.
HP Epic is HydroHoist’s top-of-the-line PWC docking platform.
HydroPort Epic has the widest non-slip walkways in the HydroPort series. The new entry design makes loading and launching easier, and the non-slip tread provides safe access to the boat.
The Epic accommodates the increase in size and capacity of today’s PWCs with wide adjustable casters. The EPIC provides stable access, easy cleaning, quick cover-up and eliminates inlet fouling associated with marine life. Epics seamlessly connects to the HP Extreme model, allowing for the growth of the HydroPort fleet. They are available in tan, gray or blue.
All HydroPort series PWC ports offer quick, convenient access to the water and feature an exclusive bow bumper, soft keel pad and tapered entry with rollers to center the craft.
The HydroPort Extreme is foam filled for increased strength and stays afloat if damaged. The PWC is carried entirely on heavy-duty 5″ x 2″ casters – width and placement are easily adjustable to accommodate different PWC models. The Extreme features stainless steel roller axles for increased strength and compatibility with fresh, brackish or salt water, and features “air cushion” bug stops and flat, non-slip treads. HydroPort Extremes are available in tan or blue.
The HydroPort Series PWC docking platforms make launching easy and convenient.
The HydroPort Pro features heavy-duty polyethylene construction, in-line wheels, a patented bow bumper and molded-in tie-down. A tapered entrance with dual bow rollers helps center the vehicle. The port can be front or side mounted for both fixed and floating docks. Connection hardware connects multiple front-mount units together (optional). The HydroPort Pro is available in tan or blue.
Docking and launching HydroPort Dry Docks
HydroHoist’s Hydroport PWC floating dry docks are easy to use. With a bow notch on the end of the dock, simply align the jet ski’s bow into the notch, align the jet ski with the dock rails and firmly press the throttle for 1 to 2 seconds to get the PWC directly up on the dock. (Even on the dry dock, BoatTEST recommends properly securing your PWC with a line or lock.)
When you’re ready to launch, simply untie the PWC and give it a good push until the vehicle is about halfway away. Then climb on, attach the safety line and swing her off the dock. When the PWC is fully submerged in the water, start the engine and drive off.
elevator prices
Prices vary by boat lift as all lifts are individually configured to the specifications and customer preferences of each individual boat.
However, the smallest lift starts for a 4,400 lb. boat under 22 feet (6.71 m) at $6,400 and ranges up to lifts a 32,000 lb. (14,515 kg boat with a length of 50 feet (15.24 m) could cost up to $40,000.
PWC HydroPort prices
HydroPorts can be attached to either floating docks or fixed docks, the fixed dock mounting kits are slightly larger than the float kit hardware.
Float kit prices include hardware:
Extreme ($2,700)
Professional (2,000)
Epic (Contact hydrohoist.com for details)
A hardware kit ($280) is required to connect multiple HydroPorts together
observations
HydoHoist lifts cost a fraction of what this cigarette boat is worth, making them a practical investment.
Boat lifts are an additional initial expense, but this is one of those expenses that can actually save you money in the long run. It protects the expensive investment and extends the life of the boat. With a lift, there is no diver to pay for regular bottom cleaning – simply rinse off after use and the boat’s efficiency is maintained, keeping fuel consumption in check. All in all, that adds up to money saved. This is something rare in boating.
Boat lifts have become so popular that we have actually seen entire marinas made up of just lifts in each slip. That alone is a profound statement of the popularity and benefits of owning one.
HydroLocker by HydroHoist
By Eric Colby
HydroLocker is a robust storage box designed to withstand the marine environment.
Short Summary
HydroHoist’s HydroLocker is a storage box designed to last in the marine environment. Made from polyethylene, it is impact resistant and virtually maintenance free. It is available in rectangular and triangular designs and each model accepts standard padlocks.
The HydroLocker Triangle is the smaller of the two products on offer.
Not a simple dock box
HydroHoist HydroLockers are heavy-duty storage lockers designed to better protect your contents from the marine environment. They are rotomolded from UV stable polyethylene to resist corrosion and take a beating or two. Vandal Resistant Hinges have internal hardware to better deter theft and are designed to be secured with standard padlocks or combination locks.
They have built-in spill management with raised edges and the covers have transverse channels that drain water more efficiently. Recessed back panels create hose and cord storage. Vents on the underside of the hatch allow air to pass to reduce moisture and the potential for mold and mildew.
The HydroLocker Rectangle 78″ even has the length and depth to accommodate water skis, and the top shelf can protect things like fishing rods.
The HydroLocker triangle fits the end of most dock fingers and could be an ideal place to store life jackets.
The dimensions
As the name suggests, the HydroLocker 78″ Rectangle is 78″ (198.12 cm) long, 26.5″ (67.56 cm) high and 34.5″ (87.63 cm) deep from front to back. If anyone has questions about how heavy duty these lockers are, this one weighs 95 pounds. (43.09kg). The Triangle model is 50.5 inches (1.28 m) long, 30.5 inches (77.47 cm) and 28.3 inches (71.88 cm) deep. His weight is estimated at 56 pounds. (25kg).
At a weight of 95 lbs. (43.09 kg), the HydroLocker 78″ Rectangle will not be blown off a deck or dock.
The HydroLocker triangle would work well in a corner installation.
retail prices
The HydroLocker 78″ Rectangle has a retail price of $695.
The HydroLocker Triangle has a retail price of $475.
Available accessories
Both HydroLocker models are available with a hose/cable hanger kit. A gas pressure assist kit and off-dock mounting bracket kit are also available for the 78″ rectangle.
HydroLockers can also be paired with an EnergyMate power option to create a utility center with power and water hookups.
The off-dock mounting bracket kit elevates the 78″ rectangle off the dock and makes it easier to reach the floor when retrieving content.
In this photo we see the gas shock lift kit installed on the rectangular model.
observations
People who have experience with HydroHoist’s other products know that the company makes products that last. HydroLockers are designed to keep water out and contents dry.
They’re sturdy and well built, and their prices reflect that. The numbers are competitive with other high-end dock storage boxes.
How do I reset my gem remote?
- Turn off power to the unit.
- Press and hold the CLEAR button. …
- While holding the CLEAR button, restore power to the unit. …
- Release the CLEAR button and reprogram the transmitter according to the directions found inside the enclosure.
How To Troubleshoot Boatlift Motors
(Yellow transmitters with two blue buttons)
1. Turn off the device.
2. Hold down the CLEAR button. (To find the clear button, follow the blue wires from the LEARN button in the front panel down to the receiver board. The CLEAR button is next to the blue wires next to an LED light.)
3. While holding down the CLEAR button, restore power to the device. The LED flashes, goes out for 5 seconds and then flashes again.
4. Release the CLEAR button and reprogram the transmitter according to the instructions inside the case.
Programming transmitters to “OLDER UNITS” – 1999 to March 2007
(Yellow transmitters with 2 blue buttons.)
1. Press and release the LEARN button once.
2. Press the DOWN button within 30 seconds after pressing the LEARN button to program the transmitter.
Clearing Transmitter on “NEWER UNITS” – March 2007 to present
(Yellow transmitters with three blue buttons and up/down membrane switches)
1. Make sure the device is turned on.
2. Press and hold the LEARN/CLEAR button for 7 seconds. The learning LED lights up after 7 seconds. When it flashes, release the button. The auto stop then flashes.
3. At this time, no transmitter works with the device.
Programming transmitters on “NEWER UNITS” – March 2007 to present
(Yellow transmitters with three blue buttons and up/down membrane switches)
1. Press and release the LEARN button once.
2. Press the STOP button within 5 seconds after pressing the LEARN button to program the transmitter.
return to the main support page
How do you adjust a limit switch on a boat lift?
Remove Yellow cap by removing 2 screws (these will be loose from GEM Remotes) Adjustment Procedures: To adjust the upper limit use screw 2o-2(blue wire on micro switch). To adjust the lower limit use screw 2o -1(red wire on micro switch). 10: Your lift should be at the max height if you followed the directions above.
How To Troubleshoot Boatlift Motors
GEM Auto-Stop Limit Switch Step-by-Step Procedure NOTE: Do not mechanically install the old KFLS limit switch (all metal body) until the lift is fully set up and adjusted. Mechanical attachment of the old limit switch before setting up the lift can destroy the limit switch and lead to malfunctions. Tools: Phillips screwdriver, small regular screwdriver, wire stripper.
1: Turn off the main power for docking. Strip the limit switch and limit switch wires from the GEM units.
2: Connect the wire color inside the GEM box (or inside a junction box) with wire nuts.
3: Bypass the limit switch during initial setup by connecting the 3 limit switch wires together (wire nut) inside the GEM box. It is illegal to sell or operate an auto stop unit without a limit switch. If your limit switch does not have wires attached, contact the boat lift company that sold you the unit. If it is not a GEM limit switch system, it is not covered under warranty or product liability.
4: Turn the auto stop switch to the off position.
5: Align all motors and run in the same direction. You may need to rewire the motors internally to do this. Remove the motor inspection cover and wire the motors according to GEM’s wiring diagrams. Place the lift near the maximum up position.
6: Check whether the handset and the hand-held transmitter run in the same direction.
7: When installing KFLS on a BHUS or BLUS lift, check bolt play, see next page. When installing the limit switch, the fork must be parallel to the tube (in the middle). If the fork is not parallel, the limit switch can be damaged and fail. On a KFLS, remove the top two screws on the worm gear. Note the holes in the KFLS that line up with the screws. Some flat top winches have an additional Zerk connector. You can remove it or drill an extra hole in the KFLS plate. For engine clearance and restraint you may need to drill 2 holes in the top of the engine cover closer to the edge of your cover. Over the years, these holes have moved farther from the edge, causing disruption.
8: Push the transmitter up and watch the direction the 2 cams rotate when your lift is at maximum height. Release the up button.
9: Now remove the bypass wire nut and connect the wires from the limit switch to the corresponding colored wires in the gem case. (Black 18 to Black 18, Red 18 to Red 18, and Blue 18 to Blue 18 limit switch wires). Remove the yellow cap by removing 2 screws (these will come loose from GEM remotes). Adjustment procedure: Use screw 2o-2 (blue wire on micro switch) to adjust the upper limit. To adjust the lower limit, use screw 2o -1 (red wire on the micro switch).
10: Your elevator should have reached the maximum height if you have followed the instructions above. Loosen the setscrew 1o (½ TO 3/4 TURN) inside the case as shown in the picture below.
11: Adjust the upper limit with screw 2o-2 (blue wire). Adjust the screw so the cam hits the microswitch roller arm in the direction that the cam rotated. You hear a soft click. If the arm is already on the cam, pull back and adjust until you hear the click.
12: Press the up button. The elevator should not turn on. Tighten the retaining screw again!!!!!(1o). You have successfully set the upper limit.
13: Now press the down button on the transmitter. Watch the cams to see them move away from the roller switch arm. If the down switch arm is on the down cam and the unit will not lower go to step 11 and move the lower cam away from the roller switch arm. Always tighten the retaining screw (1o) before activating the lift.
14: If the lift is at its lowest point to allow you to launch your boat at low tide or before the lift reaches the bottom, or if the drive tube has only 3 wraps of cable, adjust the bottom cam screw (2o -1 red cable ) until you hear the click. This should engage the microswitch roller arm. Try pressing the down button on the transmitter. The lift should not turn on, congratulations, you have set the down limit.
15: Retighten the retaining screw (1o) before activating the lift.
16: Turn on the auto stop switch. Pressing the button once should make the elevator run continuously. To test the stop function on the yellow transmitter, press both blue buttons at the same time and the lift should stop.
Now test the up limit by letting the elevator go all the way up. Check that the lift stops in the correct position. Test the lift in both directions to ensure it is working properly. Failure to follow these instructions will void any warranties, whether written or implied, for the equipment. GEM assumes no responsibility for damage resulting from improper installation or user error.
The GEM Auto Stop Limit Switch operates on 24 volt AC. The black wire supplies 24V to the contactors: through normally closed microswitches, the blue wire controls UP/OFF and the red wire controls DOWN/OFF.
WARNING: If the retaining screw is not tightened, the cams may not move, therefore the LIFT WILL NOT STOP. This could potentially damage the limit switch, boat lift, boat and/or the entire system. Read the instructions on the yellow picture card. For maximum safety, we recommend turning off the GEM device at the power source when not in use. 3/16/06 1o RETAINING SCREW 1LOWER LIMIT 2 UPPER LIMIT 2o 2o 1 2 Inside yellow limit switch box CAM ROLLER ARM MICROSWITCH GEM REMOTE CONTROLS E-DRIVE LIMIT SWITCH INSTRUCTIONS 1. Mount the unit horizontally as shown in the pictures. Note: There is a small drainage hole on the bottom. This allows the water to drain away. 2. See next page for setup instructions. Questions? Call GEM 239-642-0873 Bolts for KFLS installation Picture supplements from Atlantic Lifts of South Dade. Tools: Phillips screwdriver, small regular screwdriver, for KRLS units you may need a drill and a 1/4 metal drill bit. GEM REMOTE LIMIT SWITCH INSTRUCTIONS Full setup instructions are on the other side of the page. You may need to drill a hole in the drive tube and install the screw that came with the limit switch. Note: Screw past the bearing. 3/15/06 New KFLS 05 may not work on Boat Hoist US Boat Lift US due to extra long screw Check clearance here Read instructions on next page for installation KRLS KFLS KELS Install KFLS limit switch if the Screw on the flat plate located horizontally. KFLS
FAQ
boat lifts
Subjects:
How long do boat lift Motors last?
Make sure the top-side drain holes are closed, and the bottom-side drain holes are open to keep out debris and allow proper drainage. High-quality motors typically last 7-10 years under a cover.
How To Troubleshoot Boatlift Motors
season of care
Regardless of where you live, the elements can wreak havoc on the various components of your elevator system, and taking steps to prevent damage and prolong its life is easier than you might think. Regardless of where you live and how often you take your boat out on the water, these four steps can help you combat inclement weather and other elements that wear out your boat lift motor. As you look after your boat lift motor, be sure to regularly inspect other aspects of your boat, the boat lift, and the boat lift cables.
Check for signs of rust
Pay close attention to the capacitor cover and examine the motors for signs of rust. Check to see if the motor is retaining water when the motors are not under a cover. Make sure the top drain holes are closed and the bottom drain holes are open to keep debris out and allow proper drainage. High quality motors typically last 7-10 years under one cover.
Lubricate the engine
To keep your engine running at its best, lubricate the engine’s drive tube and bearings every four to six months. While doing so, visually inspect the bearings and motor for signs of damage or wear.
Cover your boat lift motor
Corrosion is one of the fastest ways for a boat lift motor to deteriorate. If you want to get the most out of your boat lift motor, covering the motor is a first step.
Check the drive belt
The drive belt between the engine and gear plate can become loose over time through normal wear and tear. It can be re-tightened by loosening the motor bolt, sliding the motor in the opposite direction of the gear plate pulley – tensioning the belt – and then retightening the motor bolts.
Stock up on boat lift replacement parts
We understand that every now and then a boat lift part needs to be replaced. Sometimes it can be difficult to determine if the part needs repairing or if it’s time to buy a replacement. That’s why our experts at Boat Lift Repair Parts work hard to design reliable boat lift motors and lifting systems with durability and longevity in mind. Let us help you decide which lifting component is best for your boating needs. If you would like additional information on any of our products or would like to request a quote on any of our kits, contact us today!
Hoist Remote Not Working? | Lift Boss Remote Pairing Tutorial
See some more details on the topic boat lift boss troubleshooting here:
Boat Lift Motor Troubleshooting Guide [with Solutions]
Case #1. My boat lift motor doesn’t start · Check if your motor is plugged in. · Check if the power is supplied to your outlet. · Check if your breakers or GFCI …
Source: driveandcruise.com
Date Published: 8/13/2022
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Boat Lift Boss™ User Guide
If you have any questions regarding this product and its safe use, or if there are any missing or damaged parts, DO NOT return Boat Lift Boss™ to the …
Source: images.homedepot-static.com
Date Published: 5/6/2022
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How To Troubleshoot Boatlift Motors
How To Troubleshoot Boatlift Motors · Your boat lift motor will start but not lift the load- This could indicate that there is an issue with low …
Source: boatliftdistributors.com
Date Published: 3/30/2021
View: 6850
TROUBLE SHOOTING – Lift Tech Marine
DC Remote Control Issue. If Remotes Controls stop working on DC Motors, Try unplugging the battery (12v or 24v) from the motor itself for 1 minute.
Source: www.lifttechmarine.com
Date Published: 5/3/2022
View: 4117
Troubleshooting and Overriding a Boat Lift’s GEM REMOTES …
If something’s not going right with your GEM REMOTE or boatlift, take a hint from the experts at Duncan and see how you can fix the problem.
Source: blog.duncanseawall.com
Date Published: 3/3/2021
View: 99
Lift Motor Remote Pairing Tutorial – Brinson Marine
When Do You Need To Pair Your Remote? There’s really only two situations that require you to pair your Lift Boss remote to your lift motor: when you get a …
Source: www.brinsonmarine.com
Date Published: 5/27/2021
View: 5610
Service | Lift Troubleshooting | ShoreStation®
HYDRAULIC LIFT TROUBLESHOOTING … Pump runs but not at Low voltage to pump Check voltage. Increase power supply full speed. … Recheck couplings making sure they …
Source: www.shorestation.com
Date Published: 1/7/2022
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5 Common Reasons for Boat Lift Repairs
A boat lift plays an important role in keeping your watercraft out of the water to prevent costly damage to the vessel. Although boat lifts are sturdy structures that can support thousands of pounds of a boat’s weight, neglect and poor maintenance can affect the lift’s lifespan, efficiency, and safety. While some repairs are inevitable, preventive maintenance can mitigate many boat lift problems. Here are common reasons that may require boat lift repairs.
1. Rust
Water and moisture accelerate the formation of rust on the boat lift. While steel is a popular choice for boat lifts, this material is prone to rust. However, aluminum is more resistant to rust. Depending on the extent of corrosion, consider replacing an old or corroded steel boat lift with an aluminum one. Grinding the rust off the metal is possible if you catch the corrosion early enough. Your shipbuilder can also apply a protective sealer and paint to reduce further corrosion.
Faulty engine
The motor is the lifeline of your boat lift. Specifically, the engine powers the boat lift, allowing you to effortlessly lower and raise your watercraft in and out of the water. Common signs of trouble are an engine that will not start or stay on, an engine that will not lift, and an engine that will only turn on manually. Several factors can contribute to boat lift motor problems, including but not limited to faulty wiring within the motor, blown fuses, improper voltage at the motor, and a defective up button. A boat technician can easily repair engine problems, but a completely damaged engine will need to be replaced.
3. Sinking piles
Poor installation of the piles can affect the efficiency of the ship lift that sits on the piles. Insufficiently driven piles can sink, shift and destabilize the lift. Sinking piles also cause the elevator to jam, which can lead to structural damage and safety hazards. Make sure your ship lifting system is installed by a professional ship builder.
4. Worn cables
The ropes are the workhorse of your boat lift. Cables elevate the cradle assembly and support the weight of the boat, allowing you to raise and lower the watercraft with ease. Elevator ropes are particularly prone to wear and tear due to the up and down movement and therefore require regular maintenance. Rust is a common cause of elevator cable problems, as cables are generally made of stainless steel or galvanized steel. Other factors that can wear out the hoist rope include overloading the boat lift, insufficient tension, misalignment, and improper drum winding.
5. Boat lift control malfunction
Boat Lift Motor Troubleshooting Guide [with Solutions]
DISCLAIMER: AS AN AMAZON EMPLOYEE, I EARN FROM QUALIFYING PURCHASES. THIS POST CONTAINS AFFILIATE LINKS THAT WILL REWARD ME MONEY OR OTHERWISE IF YOU USE THEM TO MAKE QUALIFYING PURCHASES. FOR MORE INFORMATION PLEASE READ MY
AS AN AMAZON EMPLOYEE, I EARN FROM QUALIFYING PURCHASES. THIS POST CONTAINS AFFILIATE LINKS THAT WILL REWARD ME MONEY OR OTHERWISE IF YOU USE THEM TO MAKE QUALIFYING PURCHASES. FOR MORE INFORMATION PLEASE READ MY WIN DISCLAIMER
If you are troubleshooting your boat lift motor and it just won’t start, make sure power can actually get to it! The most common reasons for your motor not getting power are inverted breakers (or GFCI) and damaged wiring.
If your engine starts but does NOT run and makes a “humming” noise, this could indicate a problem with a bad starting capacitor or a non-engaging centrifugal switch. There is a chance that the centrifugal switch is simply dirty and needs to be cleaned.
The following video can give you more information:
If your motor can run but keeps tripping the circuit breaker, check your no-load voltage and see if there’s a short somewhere. You should seek professional help to find a short.
You may have a problem with a motor that turns in only one direction, and this could mean you have a drum switch problem. In this case, check for corrosion or loose connections between the motor and a switch.
If you are dealing with a burned out motor the problem could be because you have overloaded your lift or your 220/230 volt motor was connected to the 110/115 volt mains.
To wire your motor for 110 volt operation:
** Warning! If you’re not sure what you’re doing, just grab a drink and ask a professional for help. This is not a DIY project and working with electricity is dangerous!
Case 1. My boat lift motor will not start
Your boat lift motor will not start for one simple reason, NO POWER is getting through! Why should this happen? There can be several reasons:
Your circuit breakers are flipped.
A wire is cut somewhere.
Contacts corroded or came loose.
Here’s what you can do:
Check if your motor is plugged in. Check if your outlet has power. Check if your circuit breakers or GFCI are reset. If none of the above work, ask a professional to check your wiring.
Case #2. My engine starts but won’t turn
If your motor is humming, it generally means that either your capacitor is defective or the centrifugal switch is not working. Single phase electric motors use starting capacitors to energize a second phase winding.
Some other signs of a bad capacitor are bulges, cracks, leaks, and burnt terminals. Here is an example of a capacitor:
Some starting capacitors have a bleed-through (or bleed-down) resistance:
Any single phase induction motor requires some form of reactive power to provide a phase shift so that the motor starts rotating by itself. This is where capacitors come into play.
Has my capacitor broken?
Generally, capacitors will fail if the engine start relay is left closed longer than it should. If the capacitor overheats or has an internal short (due to moisture build-up, for example), you will need to replace it.
It’s also a good idea to check your engine start relay for problems before it damages a new capacitor. When choosing a replacement capacitor, choose the better quality if you want the best performance from your motor.
How do you change a capacitor? When changing a capacitor, try to use the exact same one as the previous one. If you need a different type of capacitor, make sure of the following:
Its rated voltage is the same or higher. The higher the power rating, the more voltage it can withstand. They have thicker walls and better insulation, which also means a longer lifespan. The MFD, MF or UF rating (μF ) is the same or up to 12% higher. All of those letters mean – “microfarads,” which is a capacitance rating.
Also, make sure you get a starting capacitor and NOT a run capacitor! Starting capacitors are larger and have a plastic shell. Run capacitors are typically encased in metal cases filled with oil to aid in heat dissipation.
Sometimes run capacitors can be used as start capacitors, but not vice versa. There is also a difference in the terminals:
The following must be performed with the motor disconnected from the live power source. Again, if you’re not sure what you’re doing, ask for professional help!
Before you remove a starting capacitor, remember to short it out by touching both terminals with a wrench or socket (plastic or rubber-handled). Be very careful and use gloves for more protection.
A short circuit could create an arc or spark, so keep nothing flammable nearby. After discharging you can now remove the wires.
How do I test a capacitor? You’ll need a multimeter to measure capacitance (here’s a pretty cheap one from Amazon – paid link). The icon to select on the multimeter is this:
If you get no reading or OL (Multimeter Overload), it means your capacitor is out of shape and needs to be replaced. If you get a reading that is within the minimum and maximum capacitance range (as listed on the capacitor’s page), your capacitor is fine.
The centrifugal switch is responsible for energizing the starting windings (or coils) until a critical speed is reached (about half the normal engine speed).
After that, it disconnects the starting capacitor with a clicking sound. Here is this switch and a starting capacitor inside a circuit:
If the centrifugal switch cannot close due to dirt, you will only hear a hum and the motor will not start. It looks like this:
How do you know if you have a capacitor problem? If you try to rotate the shaft yourself and it starts to work, most likely the problem is with the starting capacitor. Make sure NOT to spin the motor with your hands (you can try spinning the motor fan with a stick)!
Here’s a good video on troubleshooting a starting capacitor and centrifugal switch:
What if the engine is stuck?
If your motor cannot be rotated manually after removing it from the lift, it is “finished” and will need to be replaced. You can troubleshoot the engine while it’s off the lift by checking the gearbox for problems (it could be stuck).
Problems with the drum switch?
Another reason for the motor not turning when turned on could be improper wiring of the drum switch.
If your engine can start the engine manually, it means there is something wrong with the power being fed to it. Check for corrosive connections on both sides.
Your motor could also have burned out!
Open the engine access panel and inspect for burn marks inside. Make sure you disconnect it beforehand!
In this case you will have to get a new motor.
Case #3. My boat lift stops
This problem occurs when there is not enough power being supplied to the motor, and it is especially noticeable when the boat is raised. When more amps are used, fewer volts are available.
Your boat lift system must maintain constant tension to function properly. If your winch cannot lift your boat out of the water, it means your engine cannot hold the required tension under load.
Solution? Make sure there are no brownouts in your electrical system. This may be because your motor is asking for more amps under load and the voltage is dropping.
You can also calculate how far the motor is from your circuit breaker and make sure you are using the correct gauge wire to take the voltage flowing through it. You can use the following table as a reference:
In any case, using thicker wire than you already have may solve your problem. Insufficient voltage is the number one reason boat lift manufacturers void the warranty if you use an extension cord or generator.
Don’t forget that using a cable that’s specifically designed for the marine environment and making sure it’s UL/CSA listed will help you avoid cable problems in the future.
How much do you really lift?
Did you even calculate your boat weight correctly? Did you record:
your fuel weight?
Cradle weight (if applicable)?
All those extra things you bought?
Has anything else been added to the boat after purchase?
In this case, if you miscalculated your boat weight and received an undercapacity hub, there will be a voltage drop. Your winch will not lift your boat out of the water and in some cases your GFCI will disconnect the circuit.
This means that the power demand has risen above the rated load of your elevator. If this goes on long enough your voltage will drop and the circuit breakers will trip to prevent further damage.
Improperly installed or insufficiently greased equipment can also cause a low voltage problem. This is because there is more unnecessary friction from moving parts rubbing against each other, putting extra stress on your engine.
Low voltage is the usual problem when your engine stops and your boat cannot pick up. To get your engine running you need to check the following:
How far is your motor from the power source? The longer the wire, the more likely it is to have a voltage drop.
The longer the wire, the more likely it is to have a voltage drop. Is your motor size sufficient? It must be able to take your load. 1HP motor is the most common size for boat lifts (3/4 and 1.5 sizes are also available).
It must be able to take your load. 1HP motor is the most common size for boat lifts (3/4 and 1.5 sizes are also available). Does your lifting capacity match your load? When sizing the boat lift, consider the weight of the boat and add EVERYTHING that will be lifted with it (including fuel, fresh and waste water tanks, non-factory modifications, generators, skis, etc.).
** Note. The weight of the fuel is about 6-7 lbs. per gallon water weighs about 8 lbs. per gallon multiply that number by a full tank (count all the tanks you have) and you get your maximum weight. With the following instructions you can determine the total weight of your boat (external link).
Check your voltage across the motor while it’s trying to lift your load and compare it to the voltage reading at the plug (while the motor is off). If the difference is more than 4%, there is an undervoltage problem.
Your switch could also be defective. If there is a difference in voltage levels between the input and output sides, check the connections or get a new switch.
Short Summary
If your boat lift starts fine but stops when trying to pick up the load, you most likely have an undervoltage problem. The following are the most common reasons for power loss:
Insufficient size and wire gauge. Overloaded elevator. Improperly installed elevator. Insufficient lubrication of the equipment. Use of generator or cable extensions. Corrosion or bad connection problems at the switch. Corrosion or bad connection problems on the engine. Attempting to run a 220/230 volt corded motor from a 110/115 volt power supply. Overloading and thus overheating of the engine.
** Warning! Low voltage is a fire hazard!
Case #4. Your engine is damaged
If you hear a “grinding” noise when you turn it on, it’s most likely coming from inside your motor. This noise comes from your engine’s bearings and if they are damaged in any way during shipping, your engine will run but be excessively noisy.
If your motor becomes very noisy over time, it may be due to improper installation and housing. Any type of water or moisture ingress will damage your engine over time.
Your motor could also become overloaded if you don’t give it enough rest between exercises. If your motor was working fine and you suddenly see smoke coming out of it, it means your copper windings are burning due to the excessive amount of amps coming through.
Some engines are completely sealed and only allow 15 minutes of run time (or start and stop). If you don’t let it sit and cool for at least 5 minutes between cycles, it will overheat.
Once your engine has overheated, it is damaged and needs to be replaced. Some other reasons for an overheated engine include (but are not limited to):
Improper wiring. Motor overload. The insufficient power supply. The excessive tension comes through. Continuous engine running without a break (see manufacturer information). Constantly switching the engine on and off, which is easily possible with the remote control. Your motor is wired for the wrong service (e.g. 220-230 volts instead of 110-115 volts).
Smog comes out of an overheated engine and it smells like it’s on fire.
** Warning! Always disconnect the power source before performing any electrical work. If you are not a licensed electrician, DO NOT troubleshoot yourself!
Here are some boat lift safety tips for you:
This is an owner’s manual from BH-USA, which is where I got most of this information from. They seem very professional and knowledgeable at what they do.
How To Troubleshoot Boatlift Motors
Troubleshoot boat lift motors
There’s nothing worse than getting ready to hit the water one morning, only to find your boat lift isn’t working. Suddenly that day on the open water turns into a day of stress and research as you try to figure out what the problem might be.
The lifeline of your boat lift
As a boat owner, investing in a boat lift is a smart move. Your boat lift will provide you with safe storage, protect your paintwork and extend its life
your boat! The boat lift motor is the lifeline of your boat lift, getting your boat out of the water quickly and efficiently.
To get the most out of your boat lift, it is important to maintain it regularly and replace defective parts when necessary. There are a few classic signs that your electric boat lift needs servicing. If you notice any of these signs, consider calling an electrician for service or replacing the necessary parts.
Your boat lift motor will start but will not lift the load. This could indicate a low voltage issue or that you need a different size cable
Your boat lift motor is humming. This could have several causes
Your boat lift motor can only be switched on manually. This could be wrong with your wiring or the switch.
Brands we carry: AO Smith and Leeson
Whether you are upgrading your elevator or replacing a broken motor, you want the highest quality motor you can afford.
At Boat Lift Distributors we only sell the most reliable boat lift motors on the market
Market. We are proud to offer multiple motors from trusted brands like AO
Smith and Leeson. Our selection of boat lift motors ranges from ¾ hp to 1 1/2 hp.
You can choose the Motor Only option or purchase one of our wired kits (our wired motors include a 2″ motor pulley, 15
ft. electrical 5-wire, a switch and a GFCI in either 110v or 220v).
Give us a call to determine which boat lift motor is right for your boat
We’re here to help you make the best decision for your boat lift needs. just call
our friendly customer service representatives will help you choose a product at any time of the day,
make a purchase or learn more about one of our engines.
No matter where you are in the world, Boat Lift Distributors can deliver to you. We offer
fast, reliable international shipping that gets your engine in your hands faster.
Entrust your boat lift needs to the #1 Boat Lift Company! We were in business
has been offering quality boat lifts, boat lift motors and accessories for over 40 years
Our customers can have a fun, safe and enjoyable boating season.
Do you need help? Contact us!
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